Thanks to PartsSelect for publishing the video. It was spot on as far as order of disassembly. If only disassembly was as easy as that.... I wanted to add my experiences to the story. Might help another DIY'er. First, I had to snatch the agitator out with strap looped over and under and around a long piece of wood. Popped right out with the extra leverage. That was the easiest of the hard things. Washer nut was tough; took an overnight soak with penetrating oil and lots of hammer blows on the spanner wrench. I think it helped to actually tighten the washer nut a bit before attempting removal. Tub removal from the drive shaft was next and it didn't just pull off. I used an automotive scissor jack between the drive shaft and a 2x4 wedged across the tub, under the lip. The tub released under great tension, encouraged with a hammer tap under the 2x4. Next challenge was the removal of the actual tub bearing. I used my Dremel tool to cut off the ears on the bearing so I could rotate the it freely. I used a drift to tap the bearing out from the reverse side, a little at a time, until the separation was enough to allow the claws of a claw hammer to pull the bearing out, always a little at a time: this side then that side. So here I am. I actually left out the best part. The threads on the first bolt (7/16" socket) were corroded so severely that I twisted the head off the bolt.... I guess I'll be looking for screw extractor videos next.... Just to put some dimensions on the project, the washer was installed in 2004 and the repair is being done in 2023, so that's 18+ years of corrosion. I estimate I have spent 10 hours over 4 days to actually to begin to replace the bearing.
Thank you SO MUCH. I won't lie, this was hard work. Getting the tub nut off was a bear and I had to wrestle the bearing out. I didn't think I'd ever get it out, but I finally did. Whole process took me about 3.5 hours but I DID IT. Took the whole thing apart and put it back together. Thanks so much to you, saved me a ton of money (parts were $35). TIP also order and replace the tub seal when you complete the bearing replace; the bearing wouldn't have gotten rusty without a leak.
Got er done, used a 22mm deep socket from the top down to get the bearing out. Just hammer it down, with no damage to the tub. Takes about 3 hours, and my noise problem is gone, all for about $26.00. Thanks for the great tutorial 👍👍👍
Great video. Took three hours. A little more difficult with the corrosion of 20 years, but it all went well. Sadly, it was the bearing in the transmission that was bad. No way to find that out until the machine is taken apart enough to replace the tub bearing (bushing). No new transmission available, so time for a new machine.
Mine was super hard to remove so I got a socket just large enough to sit on the bearing on the inside of the outer tub. Drop a hammer from 2-3 feet so it hits the socket and ultimately this will get the bearing out. Getting mine out from the bottom was impossible
I'm an appliance repair guy and I won't do these anymore. The last one that I attempted was a huge loss. Took 3 hours and when complete, turned out that the transmission was bad also. Hard to distinguish between a bad bearing or a bad bearing AND transmission. The tub did not come off without a huge fight. The bearing would also not come out easily. I had to use a torch, huge hammers, impact wrench and a helper. This repair is a lose lose. Get a new machine or a used whirlpool direct drive. Kudos to the tech in the video, excellent work. Can tell that this unit was 'prepared' in advance - nuts turn, tubs lifts right off - bearing comes right out... In the real world this is a very difficult, loud and dirty job. Performing this repair in someone's beautiful home is pure hell. BTW, I do replace front load bearings/spiders etc and find them EASIER to do than this top loader. Of course those are worth much more than this free curbside pickup GE unit.
Hey buddy you still out there?? It all look doable until I got to the big nut try everything there accept drill and cold chisel to get it loosing.. After reading your post and others I decided to say screw it not worth it. So now I'm just going to run the machine until it die's... Any idea How long it will last.... Thank's for your post good info.... No sense sending money and time down a rat hole.... Lol
@@mrjbahamas yea, it's a fun project for a week if you don't need to actually earn a living doing it. But those if us who have to pay bills, need to move on to replacing inlet valves and igniters lol
I beg to differ. Job is challenging but very doable. I had no issues that were show stoppers. Keep at things like this and they will get easier as you learn additional things. Sorry it was not worth it for you
Excellent video. I really appreciate the zoomed-in from-top view. I am having trouble removing the agitator dry block from the drive shaft. Must be stuck or clogged? We've been using one of these bad boys to wash plastic parts that come off the injection mold. Been working great until we suspect that parts have been leaking out of the inner basket.
Well I can't Thank You enough. I followed this video to a tee and it went very smooth. The tub nut and tube removal was pretty tough with all the calcium build up but it was doable. Other than that a very through and precise video. Easy to follow. Thanks Again...
Hello Steve I watched your video on this with the tub bearing and had a real hard time removing the tub nut I had to drill it and chisel it before I could take off the nut with the wrench also the machine still makes jet engine noise in the spin cycle what could it be. Also great how to video I was able to do the repair with your instructions step by step thanks Ralph
I have a different model, but everything is pretty much the same except the type of motor and transmission assembly. Mine had a leak at the base of tub, and the water seemed to be coming out between the tub and the tub bearing, so I figured it was a bad tub seal, and the tub seal was in pretty bad shape when I removed it. I completely disassembled the machine, which took days because so many parts were covered in rust and deposits that they would have to soak in lubricants and CLR first. While I was in there, I replaced the tub washer, the tub bearing, the tub seal, the split ring because the old one broke in half during removal, the tub nut because it was so corroded, and I even replaced the dampening straps. I did all of that so I'd never have to disassemble the machine again. I put it all back together, started the washer, and it STILL LEAKS. Also, now the rinse cycle keeps repeating. I'm going to disassemble the entire thing again to check my work, but if it still leaks after that, it's going to the curb and I'll never buy another GE appliance. At least with all the new parts, it shouldn't take so long to disassemble it again. My old Kenmore washer was nowhere near as difficult to work on.
Good instructions and video but the tub bearing does not slide out that easily. I've been gently working at it as shown for almost an hour and have gotten it maybe 1/4 an inch out. There will be marring of the plastic around it no matter how gently you go. My C washer split in half when I took it off so I'd suggest adding that to your parts list when you order.
I was able to finally get the bearing out. Since I was also replacing the tub seal, I was able to turn the tub over and go at it from the top down. The reinstall was fine except for the belt reinstall. I did pick up a hint from another video comment to use a zip tie to help reinstall the belt. I don’t think I would have gotten it back on without that hint. Unfortunately the spin cycle noise is improved but still very load. I’m not sure all my effort and $ was worth the effort. Good luck to anyone who decides to take this task on. The video was excellent but it is more difficult than it looks. Before I try a DIY project in the future, I will definitely read all of the comments first!!!
Good afternoon, my washing machine only lasts 45 seconds on any function. Exactly 45 seconds. Could you help me please? I thank you very much in advance.
Hey DIY'ers- lets talk about this video! the step by step instructions are brilliant and easy to follow. BUT, time to insert a little reality. As other posters have mentioned- the machine in the video is shiny clean with no wear and tear, This job can be done, but you need some determination. HINTS- 1.) The Tub/Spanner Nut- NOPE. expect it to be practically cemented in place. Two days of sledge hammer + spanner wrench + heat gun + penetrating oil = nuthin. impact driver with 1-11/16th long socket got the job done. 2.) Remove Inner Tub = NOPE. also like cement. at your own risk, but here's what I did- measure a 2x4 to fit across the inside lip of the inner tub. wedge a spare-tire jack between the top of the shaft and the 2x4. SLOWLY jack it up. 3.) Remove Split-Ring: mine snapped in two. Order a new one along with your bearing and washer. 4.) Remove Bearing: NOPE. Cement. And prying a screwdrive will damage the tub. I had to contraptionize a combination of vice-grips on the bearing, and a c-clamp over the 2x4...slowly pulling while tapping on the plastic around the bearing with a hammer.. Harbor Freight carries a "three-jaw pilot bearing puller" that -might- work, but they were out of stock. Other than that- EASY JOB :)
We successfully replaced the parts and reassembled the washer. Now, the tub won't spin unless there are no clothes in it. This was never a problem before. There is also a burnt rubber smell when it gets to the spin cycle. Can you help us isolate what might be causing this problem? Thanks for the video - it's great.
Very good video but my son and I tried everything to get the tub washer loose. Heat, penetrating oil, hammering etc. Nut never moved. Whole assembly moved. Had proper spanner wrench and were turning the right way. Will live with the noise until need to replace
Same problem I had couldn't get the big nut off... HOW LONG THE WASHER LAST MAKING THE LOUD NOISE????? Is the washer still going??? Your post was a year ago...
It can be tricky to do at times, you can also loosen the bolts that secure the motor and that will allow the belt to go on easier but you have to make sure the motor goes back to where it was before you re-tighten the motor bolts. Mark their position on the mounting plate with a marker before you loosen them so you know where it has to go when you go to tighten them down. If the motor isn't pulled back far enough the belt will slip and possible burn out or slip off.
Greetings, I have a Maytag Bravos MVWB755YQ0. I replaced the tub bearings with a bearing kit using the appropriate bearing press. During the last 6 min of the spin, as the speed increases, a tapping/knocking sound develops. does anyone know the problem and solution?
I find it HILLARIOUS how easy your tub nut came lose. I had to breakout the air tools, impact wrench, and BP blaster to get it to budge. I don't have near that much trouble taking cars apart with their fastners. Please tell me why you need 100+ ft-lbs on a hub fastner????
I am unable to get the bearing out to save my life! The screwdrivers don't do a darn thing. I've tried flipping it over and tapping on the bearing from inside the tub, but no luck there either. Any other recommendations?
The technician told me it would be too expensive unless you DIY. I'm a big DIY person, but I can get a new one for 300$ and parts are about 30$+my time. Mine lasted over 10 years. Yes, I will buy GE again.
I went through all of the disassembly and now I cannot get the stupid bearing out. Don’t waste your time with this fix unless you feel very lucky. Parts are fairly cheap online but if you have to pay someone to do this you may as well buy a new washer. Not even positive the noise is from the tub bearing. If you are going to do the tear down, plan to replace all possible sources of the noise. I will order a new washer today. We live in a disposable world.
Hi Steve. I have an old GE washer and I am thinking to replace some broken parts. Can I have your email to send you the photos of those parts? Maybe you can help me to order those parts from eBay or other online stores.
GREAT VIDEO THUMBS UP FOR THIS TECHNICIAN THANKS A LOT FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE SUCH A THOROUGH VIDEO. AND BY THE WAY I AGREE BROTHER GE SUCKS I WILL NEVER BUY GE AGAIN.
This makes me sad. Our washer is about 5 years old exactly and I don't thjnt it's worth this kind of trouble to try to repair. Especially considering all the comments that say it was much more difficult, (anf let's face it, it already looks pretty difficult.) Or they completed the repair and it didn't solve the problem.
Informative but deceptive. There is a convenient edit point as they install the drive belt. It is nearly impossible to install the drive belt. Had they shown how to use the drive belt install tool, it would have saved me a ton of time and a new belt. The tool may only be something you will only use once but you are already this far into doing it yourself it is worth the $30.00
family illness has prevented repair so far - washer works fine, just have to be there when it refills for rinse to keep the basket steady, no leaks, then
And under the category of "...half of what you read" Whirpool is NOT part of GE or visa versa. Whirlpool owns or controls Kitchen Aid, Roper, Maytag, including Jenn-Air, Amana, Jade, Magic Chef, Admiral, Hoover, and about a dozen other brands in Brazil, Italy, Japan and more - BUT NOT GE.
Very noisy spin cycle on 18 month old GE washer. Paid $90.00 for a 3 minute estimate from manufacturer repairman. Said bearings always go out. $300.00 to repair. I Tore it completely down. Pulled out the bearing and replaced it. Long tedious job. Went step by step with the instructor. Started washer and went to spin cycle. Very loud noise, as before, on spin cycle. Add me to the list of ex-GE customers.
I am a 22 years in this business and this video is BS. If you took it apart washer need to replace basket drive shaft and tub seal else. He did not tell about it. Your problem was leaking tub seal , water damaged basket drive ball bearing.
This bearing is simply a sleeve and never goes out. If making noise, its probably in transmission or mode shifter as this has. No need to disassemble console for this job.
Wah! No reflection on the technician, but what a lot of crap! Far far too much work! A nonsense design. I'll never be buying a GE washing machine that's for sure.
People come on. Have we gotten to the point that this repair seems TOO complex. This is actually fairly easy as repairs of this nature go. Time consuming - perhaps, but not that difficult. As for the GE haters and those finding fault with the design, any washer no matter the make is going to seem arcane to someone. Try looking up this repair on a Whirlpool.
That was tough to watch. That bearing/sleeve won’t go bad by looking at the size of it. When you have noise, it is probably the transmission. We all know where these parts come from. Not here anymore. Low quality materials used, can’t tell the difference just by eye. Now with tariffs we will be paying more for this lousy crap. Disposal clothes anyone?
ALL the new machines are JUNK. High prices and piss poor quality. American made machines would last 20 plus years, now out of the USA made, last maybe 8 years.
I greatly appreciate whoever edited this. Skips all the pauses so you don't have to speed it up
Showed my wife this video to see if she wanted me to attempt to fix ours. We'll be getting a new machine tomorrow!
I shoulda made a video of my attempt, your wife would scream HELL NO!!!
Thanks to PartsSelect for publishing the video. It was spot on as far as order of disassembly. If only disassembly was as easy as that.... I wanted to add my experiences to the story. Might help another DIY'er. First, I had to snatch the agitator out with strap looped over and under and around a long piece of wood. Popped right out with the extra leverage. That was the easiest of the hard things. Washer nut was tough; took an overnight soak with penetrating oil and lots of hammer blows on the spanner wrench. I think it helped to actually tighten the washer nut a bit before attempting removal. Tub removal from the drive shaft was next and it didn't just pull off. I used an automotive scissor jack between the drive shaft and a 2x4 wedged across the tub, under the lip. The tub released under great tension, encouraged with a hammer tap under the 2x4. Next challenge was the removal of the actual tub bearing. I used my Dremel tool to cut off the ears on the bearing so I could rotate the it freely. I used a drift to tap the bearing out from the reverse side, a little at a time, until the separation was enough to allow the claws of a claw hammer to pull the bearing out, always a little at a time: this side then that side.
So here I am. I actually left out the best part. The threads on the first bolt (7/16" socket) were corroded so severely that I twisted the head off the bolt.... I guess I'll be looking for screw extractor videos next.... Just to put some dimensions on the project, the washer was installed in 2004 and the repair is being done in 2023, so that's 18+ years of corrosion. I estimate I have spent 10 hours over 4 days to actually to begin to replace the bearing.
Dude! Every step was dead on accurate and perfectly explained. You turned a 5hr job into just 2. Thank you so much for a great video.
superb pace and detail…perfect instructional video..thanks
Thank you SO MUCH. I won't lie, this was hard work. Getting the tub nut off was a bear and I had to wrestle the bearing out. I didn't think I'd ever get it out, but I finally did. Whole process took me about 3.5 hours but I DID IT. Took the whole thing apart and put it back together. Thanks so much to you, saved me a ton of money (parts were $35). TIP also order and replace the tub seal when you complete the bearing replace; the bearing wouldn't have gotten rusty without a leak.
I am doing this right now, but where is the tub seal to replace? I must be missing something lol
Got er done, used a 22mm deep socket from the top down to get the bearing out. Just hammer it down, with no damage to the tub.
Takes about 3 hours, and my noise problem is gone, all for about $26.00. Thanks for the great tutorial 👍👍👍
To be a good teacher is a gift...you certainly have that gift.
Great video. Took three hours. A little more difficult with the corrosion of 20 years, but it all went well. Sadly, it was the bearing in the transmission that was bad. No way to find that out until the machine is taken apart enough to replace the tub bearing (bushing). No new transmission available, so time for a new machine.
A year ago, you were at the point where I am today. How did you know that the transmission bearing was bad?
This is a great video... very complete yet concise. Well done and thank you!
Mine was super hard to remove so I got a socket just large enough to sit on the bearing on the inside of the outer tub. Drop a hammer from 2-3 feet so it hits the socket and ultimately this will get the bearing out. Getting mine out from the bottom was impossible
I'm an appliance repair guy and I won't do these anymore. The last one that I attempted was a huge loss. Took 3 hours and when complete, turned out that the transmission was bad also. Hard to distinguish between a bad bearing or a bad bearing AND transmission. The tub did not come off without a huge fight. The bearing would also not come out easily. I had to use a torch, huge hammers, impact wrench and a helper. This repair is a lose lose. Get a new machine or a used whirlpool direct drive. Kudos to the tech in the video, excellent work. Can tell that this unit was 'prepared' in advance - nuts turn, tubs lifts right off - bearing comes right out... In the real world this is a very difficult, loud and dirty job. Performing this repair in someone's beautiful home is pure hell. BTW, I do replace front load bearings/spiders etc and find them EASIER to do than this top loader. Of course those are worth much more than this free curbside pickup GE unit.
Hey buddy you still out there?? It all look doable until I got to the big nut try everything there accept drill and cold chisel to get it loosing.. After reading your post and others I decided to say screw it not worth it. So now I'm just going to run the machine until it die's... Any idea How long it will last.... Thank's for your post good info.... No sense sending money and time down a rat hole.... Lol
I know your pain. i have vowed not to work on ge top loads for the same reason. The new ge stacks are the same thing
@@mrjbahamas yea, it's a fun project for a week if you don't need to actually earn a living doing it. But those if us who have to pay bills, need to move on to replacing inlet valves and igniters lol
@@myfriendhenry1 lol yes!!
I beg to differ. Job is challenging but very doable. I had no issues that were show stoppers. Keep at things like this and they will get easier as you learn additional things. Sorry it was not worth it for you
Excellent video. I really appreciate the zoomed-in from-top view. I am having trouble removing the agitator dry block from the drive shaft. Must be stuck or clogged?
We've been using one of these bad boys to wash plastic parts that come off the injection mold. Been working great until we suspect that parts have been leaking out of the inner basket.
Well I can't Thank You enough. I followed this video to a tee and it went very smooth. The tub nut and tube removal was pretty tough with all the calcium build up but it was doable. Other than that a very through and precise video. Easy to follow. Thanks Again...
So glad it helped!
Hello Steve I watched your video on this with the tub bearing and had a real hard time removing the tub nut I had to drill it and chisel it before I could take off the nut with the wrench also the machine still makes jet engine noise in the spin cycle what could it be. Also great how to video I was able to do the repair with your instructions step by step thanks Ralph
I have a different model, but everything is pretty much the same except the type of motor and transmission assembly. Mine had a leak at the base of tub, and the water seemed to be coming out between the tub and the tub bearing, so I figured it was a bad tub seal, and the tub seal was in pretty bad shape when I removed it. I completely disassembled the machine, which took days because so many parts were covered in rust and deposits that they would have to soak in lubricants and CLR first. While I was in there, I replaced the tub washer, the tub bearing, the tub seal, the split ring because the old one broke in half during removal, the tub nut because it was so corroded, and I even replaced the dampening straps. I did all of that so I'd never have to disassemble the machine again. I put it all back together, started the washer, and it STILL LEAKS. Also, now the rinse cycle keeps repeating. I'm going to disassemble the entire thing again to check my work, but if it still leaks after that, it's going to the curb and I'll never buy another GE appliance. At least with all the new parts, it shouldn't take so long to disassemble it again. My old Kenmore washer was nowhere near as difficult to work on.
If this bearing goes bad will it make my drum leak? I just replaced the tub gasket and I'm watching it still leak from the bottom of the tub bearing.
Good instructions and video but the tub bearing does not slide out that easily. I've been gently working at it as shown for almost an hour and have gotten it maybe 1/4 an inch out. There will be marring of the plastic around it no matter how gently you go. My C washer split in half when I took it off so I'd suggest adding that to your parts list when you order.
I was able to finally get the bearing out. Since I was also replacing the tub seal, I was able to turn the tub over and go at it from the top down. The reinstall was fine except for the belt reinstall. I did pick up a hint from another video comment to use a zip tie to help reinstall the belt. I don’t think I would have gotten it back on without that hint. Unfortunately the spin cycle noise is improved but still very load. I’m not sure all my effort and $ was worth the effort. Good luck to anyone who decides to take this task on. The video was excellent but it is more difficult than it looks. Before I try a DIY project in the future, I will definitely read all of the comments first!!!
Extremely helpful video, thank you!
Good afternoon, my washing machine only lasts 45 seconds on any function. Exactly 45 seconds. Could you help me please? I thank you very much in advance.
Does this fix a loud roaring noise when it goes into spin cycle
Wow, what a pain in the you-know-what! I think I’ll just look for a used washer!
Man I was thinking the same thing! ALL THAT to get to that little piece! Good video though.
Hey DIY'ers- lets talk about this video! the step by step instructions are brilliant and easy to follow. BUT, time to insert a little reality. As other posters have mentioned- the machine in the video is shiny clean with no wear and tear, This job can be done, but you need some determination. HINTS- 1.) The Tub/Spanner Nut- NOPE. expect it to be practically cemented in place. Two days of sledge hammer + spanner wrench + heat gun + penetrating oil = nuthin. impact driver with 1-11/16th long socket got the job done. 2.) Remove Inner Tub = NOPE. also like cement. at your own risk, but here's what I did- measure a 2x4 to fit across the inside lip of the inner tub. wedge a spare-tire jack between the top of the shaft and the 2x4. SLOWLY jack it up. 3.) Remove Split-Ring: mine snapped in two. Order a new one along with your bearing and washer. 4.) Remove Bearing: NOPE. Cement. And prying a screwdrive will damage the tub. I had to contraptionize a combination of vice-grips on the bearing, and a c-clamp over the 2x4...slowly pulling while tapping on the plastic around the bearing with a hammer.. Harbor Freight carries a "three-jaw pilot bearing puller" that -might- work, but they were out of stock. Other than that- EASY JOB :)
Great educational and repair video.
Are the rear support rods different (springs different maybe) than the front ones? Why are they so much more money to buy?
Great video but I wish as he assembled it agsin was a closer view do you could see it ... camera to far away.
We successfully replaced the parts and reassembled the washer. Now, the tub won't spin unless there are no clothes in it. This was never a problem before. There is also a burnt rubber smell when it gets to the spin cycle. Can you help us isolate what might be causing this problem? Thanks for the video - it's great.
Elizabeth D What model number do you have?
My bet is either the belt slipped or she needed a new belt.
Very good video but my son and I tried everything to get the tub washer loose. Heat, penetrating oil, hammering etc. Nut never moved. Whole assembly moved. Had proper spanner wrench and were turning the right way. Will live with the noise until need to replace
Same problem I had couldn't get the big nut off... HOW LONG THE WASHER LAST MAKING THE LOUD NOISE????? Is the washer still going??? Your post was a year ago...
Why cant we just remove the motor legs from the tub and pull off the whole assembly?
Help. I can't get the belt back on. I tried rotating it but it doesn't go on like yours.
It can be tricky to do at times, you can also loosen the bolts that secure the motor and that will allow the belt to go on easier but you have to make sure the motor goes back to where it was before you re-tighten the motor bolts. Mark their position on the mounting plate with a marker before you loosen them so you know where it has to go when you go to tighten them down. If the motor isn't pulled back far enough the belt will slip and possible burn out or slip off.
Greetings, I have a Maytag Bravos MVWB755YQ0. I replaced the tub bearings with a bearing kit using the appropriate bearing press. During the last 6 min of the spin, as the speed increases, a tapping/knocking sound develops. does anyone know the problem and solution?
I enjoy your videos, I seem to notice a Canadian accent.
I’m going to do this. If it gets too hard look for my video of me shooting the machine with my ten gauge.
I find it HILLARIOUS how easy your tub nut came lose. I had to breakout the air tools, impact wrench, and BP blaster to get it to budge. I don't have near that much trouble taking cars apart with their fastners. Please tell me why you need 100+ ft-lbs on a hub fastner????
I am unable to get the bearing out to save my life! The screwdrivers don't do a darn thing. I've tried flipping it over and tapping on the bearing from inside the tub, but no luck there either. Any other recommendations?
Lowes or home depot nearby? lol
The technician told me it would be too expensive unless you DIY. I'm a big DIY person, but I can get a new one for 300$ and parts are about 30$+my time. Mine lasted over 10 years. Yes, I will buy GE again.
I went through all of the disassembly and now I cannot get the stupid bearing out. Don’t waste your time with this fix unless you feel very lucky. Parts are fairly cheap online but if you have to pay someone to do this you may as well buy a new washer. Not even positive the noise is from the tub bearing. If you are going to do the tear down, plan to replace all possible sources of the noise. I will order a new washer today. We live in a disposable world.
Hi Steve. I have an old GE washer and I am thinking to replace some broken parts. Can I have your email to send you the photos of those parts? Maybe you can help me to order those parts from eBay or other online stores.
WHY ONLY 1 screw in the bearing tub seal thing? same with my washer
No grease?
GREAT VIDEO THUMBS UP FOR THIS TECHNICIAN THANKS A LOT FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE SUCH A THOROUGH VIDEO. AND BY THE WAY I AGREE BROTHER GE SUCKS I WILL NEVER BUY GE AGAIN.
Excellent video A++
Very informative video but I think I'll just buy a new machine. Too much work for an eight year old washer. I'll never buy anything GE again.
I have the same problem and I agree time for a new machine.
900 dollars for the non replacement bearing stainless tub models.
I'm with on this situation.
This makes me sad. Our washer is about 5 years old exactly and I don't thjnt it's worth this kind of trouble to try to repair. Especially considering all the comments that say it was much more difficult, (anf let's face it, it already looks pretty difficult.) Or they completed the repair and it didn't solve the problem.
Informative but deceptive. There is a convenient edit point as they install the drive belt. It is nearly impossible to install the drive belt. Had they shown how to use the drive belt install tool, it would have saved me a ton of time and a new belt. The tool may only be something you will only use once but you are already this far into doing it yourself it is worth the $30.00
Thanks! Great video.
Hello I just did this repair on my Kemore Elite Oasis. Now during spin cycle it start making alot of noise and I get a UL code then machine stop.
Verify that the tub bearing was fully inserted into the tub and that the suspension rods and tub straps are properly installed.
The washer has to be completely disassembled for a simple par replacement? Obviously, they only want to sell new washing machines.
Lisa Higdon Were you successful with your repair?
family illness has prevented repair so far - washer works fine, just have to be there when it refills for rinse to keep the basket steady, no leaks, then
Did anyone else have trouble removing the top cabinet in their washer?
And under the category of "...half of what you read" Whirpool is NOT part of GE or visa versa. Whirlpool owns or controls Kitchen Aid, Roper, Maytag, including Jenn-Air, Amana, Jade, Magic Chef, Admiral, Hoover, and about a dozen other brands in Brazil, Italy, Japan and more - BUT NOT GE.
Very noisy spin cycle on 18 month old GE washer. Paid $90.00 for a 3 minute estimate from manufacturer repairman. Said bearings always go out. $300.00 to repair. I Tore it completely down. Pulled out the bearing and replaced it. Long tedious job. Went step by step with the instructor. Started washer and went to spin cycle. Very loud noise, as before, on spin cycle. Add me to the list of ex-GE customers.
I am a 22 years in this business and this video is BS. If you took it apart washer need to replace basket drive shaft and tub seal else. He did not tell about it. Your problem was leaking tub seal , water damaged basket drive ball bearing.
any tricks in removing the tub nut
+Ronald DeLong You will require the proper spanner wrench and a 2-3 pound hammer. Remember, it is a left hand thread so clockwise to loosen.
used a 3/4 drive socket and a cheater bar. Tied the pulley up with 2x bailing wire to counter.
What if I don't have a spanner wrench
Always recommend ge. This design is simpler than the maytag, amana, and frigidaire. Whirlpools break more often but generally easier to work on.
Michael childers Wtf are you talking about....Old Whirlpool direct drive washers last 20 to 30 years easily.
Спасибо, очень помогли
This bearing is simply a sleeve and never goes out. If making noise, its probably in transmission or mode shifter as this has. No need to disassemble console for this job.
He needs to take it all back apart because he forgot to put one of the screws in the tub bearing.
The tub bearing has only one screw. Watch the video from the beginning again, and you'll see that it has only one screw when he takes it apart.
Going a bit slower would be nice.
Pass. Im buying a new non ge washer
Wah! No reflection on the technician, but what a lot of crap! Far far too much work! A nonsense design. I'll never be buying a GE washing machine that's for sure.
People come on. Have we gotten to the point that this repair seems TOO complex. This is actually fairly easy as repairs of this nature go. Time consuming - perhaps, but not that difficult. As for the GE haters and those finding fault with the design, any washer no matter the make is going to seem arcane to someone. Try looking up this repair on a Whirlpool.
Have you actually done one? I tear down washers daily and this one is a Biatch.
That was tough to watch. That bearing/sleeve won’t go bad by looking at the size of it.
When you have noise, it is probably the transmission. We all know where these parts come from. Not here anymore. Low quality materials used, can’t tell the difference just
by eye. Now with tariffs we will be paying more for this lousy crap. Disposal clothes anyone?
ALL the new machines are JUNK. High prices and piss poor quality. American made machines would last 20 plus years, now out of the USA made, last maybe 8 years.
Jesus Christ!...Just buy a whirlpool direct drive washer.