How to Replace Bearings LG Front Load Washer
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- This is a basic tutorial on how to replace the bearings on you LG Washer. This is not an easy job, but very rewarding when complete.
Small Tub Kit: lorainfurnitur...
Large Tub Kit: lorainfurnitur...
Uncommon Tub Kit: lorainfurnitur...
If you are not sure which kit that you need, look up your model on a parts website, such as searspartsdirect, and then match up the tub seal part # to one of these three.
4036ER2004A - Standard
MDS62058301 - Large
4036ER2003A - Uncommon
Buy the BOSCH Drill, It's Awesome: amzn.to/2RPqDfM
Support me on Patreon: / lorainfurniture
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Buy an LG Bearing Kit for your machine on our website! They come in three different sizes, so please read the description to figure out which is for you or give us a call and we can help! 😁
Standard: lorainfurniture.com/shop/appliance-parts/new-lg-front-load-washer-bearing-replacement-kit-4280fr4048n-map61913707-4036er2004a/
Large: lorainfurniture.com/shop/appliance-parts/washer-dryer-parts/new-lg-front-load-washer-large-bearing-replacement-kit-4280en4001f-4280en4001g-mds62058301/
Uncommon: lorainfurniture.com/shop/appliance-parts/new-lg-front-load-washer-uncommon-tub-bearing-replacement-kit-4280en4001a-map61913714-4036er2003a/
What if the plastic corner edge where the drum seal fits is chewed up?
Hi. I took my washer apart to clean it. I’m lost on where this piece clamps on. 🤦♀️ Can you help? I had the detergent dispenser hose connected but took it off trying to figure this lone hose. 😳
The numbers on my bearings don't match the numbers on yours but the video was premium! Thank you!
Hey all, great video. One step he said that you’ll struggle with, I have a way that is easier for bearing removal… take a 1” socket and an extension. Slide it through the bigger opening of the 2 bearings. Four hits the first bearing came out. Flipped the drum over and used a 1’1/4 socket and extension and with two hits and it was out. Even pressure with the socket pushes is in a straight out motion, vrs the wiggle motion of exiting going side to side and going all around with a punch. Mechanical background came in handy for that part. Rest of it was fabulous and thank you for the video, machine is fixed 🤟
Thank you so much for this tip! After hammering away for literally hours this finally let me get the bearings out.
So two of the bolts on my spider arm easily turn, but won’t come out. Any ideas?
@Meghan83 the inner nut that bolt fastened to is turning...project just became way more difficult!
Coming out square or even helps as much as going in square or even
I rarely post any comments because I am generally too busy to spend the time doing so, but...this video is EXCELLENT! It made the bearing and seal replacement very achievable and after the cost of parts and some time, we are fully functional and I understand much of the washer's inner workings. THANK YOU for taking the time and the professional donation to the husband needing to get the washer functioning again!
Do yourself a favor if you are considering this repair: *** Watch from 11:15 - 13:15 before buying any parts ****
I had the same response to this video. I think this might be my first comment on anything in over a decade. I wish I found this video sooner.
😅first I am
@@ctyler3328 Thanks, 11:26 convinced me not to try to do it myself. 😅
Absolutely the best step by step repair video I've ever come across in my life. Thank you sir.
Thanks for the video, it was helpful. @26:40 you mention the red mark on the gasket used between the two outer tub halves should be positioned at the top of the tub (the side away from the heater element), and that you did not know the reason. The reason is because the gasket is created by fusing the ends of a long piece of gasket material, and the spot where the two ends are fused is a potential weak spot/leak spot. If this weak spot is positioned at the top of the tub, then if it did fail, then any leak (if it actually did leak much) would be minimized. If the weak spot was at the bottom of the tub and it failed, then it would be a much bigger problem. You can see the location of the fusing when inspecting the gasket in the location of the red mark.
I hope this Man has become a millionaire! His videos/tutorials are absolutely outstanding!!! Thank you and best wishes to him!!
I've bought parts from him in the past and found him to be honest, quick and accurate. He caught an error my shop had made in one order and made sure we ordered the right part.
@@ethelryan257 That's really cool to hear, thank you!
I don’t even own this washer but I’ve change bearings on my Maytag a few times now. This is a fantastic step by step video with great advice along the way!🎉
Dude, this video and the way you narrated the process is better then best …u didn’t piss me off once with unnecessary info and constant shots of your face. You were informative, to the point and the video was off only what was relevant to the job. Thank you very much for making this video, and your truck with the screwdriver at the end is what I do when ever possible
Excellent video! I replaced a number of front wheel bearings on cars and trucks over my lifetime, so I thought "how difficult can this be?" Haha...... I'll be running my LG until it dies and then buy a new washer. Thanks for the detailed video! At 68, it's just not a project I want to do.
Wanted to say thank you. I just completed this repair and everything is working again. Took me a total of about 8-10hrs(4hrs to get washer apart and to get the bearings out: approx 6hrs to get the bearings back in, replace additional parts and reassemble washer). Took me forever to get rear tub /drum separated! A hammer and 2x4 didn't work for me. I thought maybe I was in that 20% that this doesn’t work for and was about to give up. I went and purchased a 16lb sledgehammer and was able to get the rear tub/drum separated on the first hit. Now the bearing took forever to get apart as well. I used a lot of penetrating oil, a hammer and socket extension (yes a socket extension…it's ruined the socket extension lol) but it worked. My washer was leaking thru the bearings which left a mess of brown dried up rust/crud on everything in the back of the washer, inner side panels and the top of the pedestal. While it was apart I took the time to clean all the built up rust/crud on the drum, front/rear tub and washer rotor assembly. This would be a great/only time you could do a deep cleaning to get to parts you wouldn’t be able to access with the washer together. Also, had to clean the motor(soft wire brush & damp rag)which had lots of crud on it as well. I was afraid bec it was so much gunk on the motor and magnets that it may not spin correctly so I cleaned it and also changed the washer rotor position sensor, bellos and water temp sensor since it was all apart and easier to do now. I did purchase a spider arm which I had full intentions on replacing since it was apart but upon further inspection, it just had a lot of crud on it which I cleaned up with scrubbing pad. After cleaning it there weren’t any cracks so I did not replace. Putting bearings in freezer and adding liquid detergent helped to get bearing back in easily. I would suggest for those attempting this a few pointers: Put the mushroom looking item and clamp front the top hose and clamp from the bottom hose in a bag. If you don't they are easy to lose without noticing as you move things around. Also, put a long socket on the plastic screws for the shocks(took me forever to get them them out with pliers). Take pics along the way as you disassemble the washer and label screws as they come out as all washers are similar but not exactly the same as the video. Other than that, video is gold for doing the job. Is it time consuming.....yes, but video walks you thru all the steps and saves a lot of money. Since most washers these days last 4-5yrs it seem, I rather keep what I have knowing the work I've put into it & new parts I have Lol Washer is working like brand new again! Thanks!
You should make a fortune by teaching others how to make you tube videos. Excellent filming editing narrative and clearly spoken. Iv done most of this video but now I have no worries on what is beyond the simple repairs. No way could; I have ventured inside without hours of scratching my head and ruining the machines future.. can't wait to get started on this repair. Thank you and keep up the professional productions.
Honestly gotta say I haven’t commented on anything in years.
This video is a fantastic step by step tutorial for people like me that have dealt with this issue.
The only thing I’d add is my case. Bearings, spider, and dampers needed to be replaced. Washer could walk down the damn street if it wanted to.
Used Amazon off brand bearings and dampers, OEM spider. Worked well for a month or two, then issues slowly came back.
Today I replaced the bearings with OEM again, but in honestly I think the issue was the dampers failing too quickly.
Lesson learned, buy the OEM parts FIRST even if you’re in a rush to get it together. These things are prone that and some bearing issue, but you can keep it going.
LG model WM2233HD
I’d like to add that the first replacement set of bearings I took out looked and felt fine, but still. OEM parts, start at the dampers first if you can .
I spent a long dark weekend alone with my washing machine, with nothing but my tools, a set of replacement bearings, and some work lights.
And this amazing video.
Some tears were wept, some sweat was poured, and yes, even some blood was shed (hammer, drift, thumb), but I finally prevailed, all because of the information found here, so I had to write to express my gratitude.
My wife thanks you, my wallet thanks you, and I thank you, from the bottom of my underwear drawer.
Having said that, I will mention two things that came up during my battle with my washer.
Getting the drum apart can be a bear, but one approach that might help would be this: Use two cement blocks, each covered by a towel, placed just enough apart that one could rest the outer plastic tub's edges on them and have the inner tub hang freely. Gravity will help get the parts separated, and it is easier to tap downward than to try to hold the drum while doing a side-tap.
If the bearings cannot be removed, it might still be possible to salvage this project by purchasing a replacement drum assembly. The bearings come installed, allowing one to bypass that whole part of the endeavor.
Thank you again for this tremendous video.
Very good and thorough video.....got me past self doubt of doing this...very easy....removing the bearings weren't bad..... assembly was easy enough....one word of caution if replacing the bearings do replace the seal...a false economy not too.....also if the spider arm shaft has even the slightest rough surface you MUST replace the part...sks bearing kit through this site was expensive and could be found elsewhere cheaper.....but I went ahead and ordered through the link ..even though it was higher here I figured I might as well pay the extra since he did such a good job on the instructional video.
This is one of the best how to video's I've seen. Not technically well done but doing exactly what it should. Everything you need to know to do the job is covered. No more, no less. Thanks!
I watched your video, and bought your kit. The video is very good, and the kit is complete, right down to the zip ties and paper clip used to clear out the weep hole. Thanks so much.
Spider Arm: I found that the spider arm on my washer was pitted where the seal rides, and could not be reused. I found that 5 out of 6 bolts were spinning the captured nut so I tried drilling a hole between the bolts (covered in other videos) to remove a screw (that holds the agitator assembly together). Unfortunately, my model has two screws, so I had to grind the heads off of the bolts (with an angle grinder). Capturing the nuts in the agitators (for the spider) might simplify assembly at the factory, but it's not a good design for repair.
Reversing the bolts: I thought about pre-drilling the new Spider (to access the screws mentioned above) for future service, but then it occurred to me to reverse the bolts so the head of the bolt is captured and the nuts are on the outside of the tub. I purchased stainless steel 8mm by 40mm bolts/washers/lock washers at the local hardware store. The pockets that capture the nuts were wallowed out a little; so I purchased an extra 8mm bolt, heated the head with a propane torch, and pushed the head into the spots where the nuts were captured, melting the nylon and re-establishing the pockets. I then put the agitators back together and installed them into the tub with the threaded portions of the bolts sticking out of the tub, ready to install the new Spider. If I ever have to service this washer again or if I want to clean all the gunk out of it, I can easily heat the nuts to soften the Loctite.
Again, many thanks...
After seeing how much is involved and the significant chance of failure I'm no longer considering fixing mine. Thanks for this video. You just saved me a heap of money, time and frustration.
Your video was excellent! Mother, daughter project complete!
Note - I took the motor off. Then I took the drum down to our local Tire Factory and they took the bearings out and put the new ones in, in less than 2 hours. Super cheap too! I’m forever grateful!
Another person that almost never posts a comment but this video is really wonderful…I was able to get my spider arm off and replace that as well. Was broken in 3 parts
This video saved my washer. I just did my bearings, pretty straight forward. My washer was sounding like a freight train, bearings were shot, rusted and dry. So much better now. LG, 15 years and counting.
We used your video to replace the bearings in my washing machine. Your instructions were "spot-on" to assist us in getting this job done. I spent $120.00 on parts vs. the cost of a service call and repair bill. Thank you for your great tutorial!
Extremely difficult, but found the answer!
The old bearing after 10+ years of use was extremely difficult to get out. I soaked with oil break-free spray for two days, used a 5lb. sledge hammer with a piece of wood both under the drum and on top of the shaft to prevent damage. I beat on that thing off and on for two days and it did not budge. I tried virtually every recommendation I could find to no avail. I was determined to break it loose. I ended up purchasing a screw the exact same length, diameter, and thread count as the screw that holds on the rotor(motor) and screws down into the shaft. I then put the drum directly on the cement floor with just a towel under it to prevent damage. I then screwed in the screw all the way down until the head was flush with the spindle I beat on it without any wood in between it. I will add I also placed padding around the spindle in case my hammer glanced off the head of the screw, damaging the drum. Now I was making direct contact with the spindle. After about 7-8 good smacks it began moving, a few more and it was done. The sacrificial screw unscrewed easily and it was done. Put it all back together and it was like brand new. So many people have fought this situation. I only wish they knew about this method. A side note: my neighbor asked me if I had taken up the hobby of black smithing. That would be no.
Yes, same huge problem with my 2007 LG washing machine. With no solution to separate the shaft from the half tank, I hit the shaft directly. Big mistake, because of course when I reassembled it, the thread was deformed; patiently with a file I ended up rebuilding over the deformation of the thread. The bolt ended up gripping the thread and I could finalize the repair.
For the choice of bearing, I also chose a waterproof model from Timken. More expensive but I don't regret it considering the 24 hours the repair took.
This is the correct approach. I used a bolt that was the same size with a bunch of washers to keep it from going too deep. Within minutes I had it out. Keep checking after each hit or two to make sure the bolt is tight, otherwise you could hurt the threads.
Yep do this first. If it helps anyone mine needed a m10x25 bolt (1.5mm thread) and 4 fender washers under it.
I left the old bearing soaking for idk how many days, soaked it again a day I passed by it and today I was able to just smack it a few time with a rubber hammer and it came out. But my spider arm is destroyed. Im not sure if it was like that or I broke it. Im sure I didn’t hit so hard though 😢.
Competence, honesty, and sound advice is what I'm seeing here. I don't mean to be dramatic, but it's people like you who God uses to help the little guy to save money when money to tight. Also, good job describing and explaining things.
I don't comment on videos often, but I want everyone to know that this is by far the best step-by-step video out there to repair these front load washers. I followed the directions on my phone while I stood in my laundry room and went step after step. Worked flawlessly and fixed the problem. I would add just a few notes. If you intend on doing more than one of these, get a bearing/race driver instead of using the old bearing. I had a set that I paid $20 for some time ago. Keeps your new bearings clean, drives them in straight, aluminum, so no marring on new bearing. Again, it was a great video!
I'm going to take the day off work tomorrow to disassemble my washer and hope that it's in good enough condition to order the parts kit. On another note, I'm a professional technical instructor in high tech and aviation, and I've gotta say you have an excellent and rare gift for instruction. Your video is (hopefully) going to save me a lot of money and has already imparted new knowledge and skills to me. Thank you!
As a professional in the field, on LG and Samsungs with bad bearings. We replace the whole rear outer tub and spin basket. Its much faster and guarantees the bearings are installed/pressed correctly and spider shaft is a none issue. This is a very expensive repair and really only worth it is the machine is under factory or an extended warranty. Factory also tells us to replace them this way. Great content you earned a sub from another appliance repair tech!
Where do you buy the whole rear outer tub?
agree with you. My LG first had noise， I did not pay attention, it still working. after period of time LG then water flooded. I dis-assembled it. found lots of rust. where it come from? finally found out , bearing was totally broken. it has been in use for 5 years , passed factory warrenty.
How much do you charge for this job?
@@laughter95 with parts and labor it averages anywhere from $600-$800. Cost of parts are the biggest problem.
@@Kickstandsup83 Wow, that's interesting. Thanks for the reply. Considering a new washer can be around $1k, the cost of a repair seems like a very tough sell. My local repairman told me he didn't think it was worth trying to repair my LG front load washer that rattled, likely due to a failed bearing and/or motor issues. I didn't get to ask him exactly how much he charged, but he guessed it would be around 80% of the cost of a new washer. I bought a new LG WM4000 washer from Lowe's for $580 delivered. Glad I didn't go the repair route. Thanks again.
Not only a good technician but even better teacher, thanks for sharing such an amazing job...👌
Used your video to take a washer dryer combo apart for the same job. Your video reached out all the way in Romania (EU) to help! :) The basket ONLY came out after I used a new bolt (different from the one that came with the machine) all the way in the rod and just a tiny bit undone, then hitting it like my life depended on it with a 2 pound (1kg) hammer - which I didn't have so I bought one specifically because I believed I either break it or fix it. It soaked in WD40 for 3 hours before all unsuccesful attempts to initially use any wood to take it out (ran out of wood). I ended up bending the bolt but still came out easily. The spider assembly was good, machine is fixed and works fine. I also took out the motor assembly before hammering because my accuracy with the hammer started to suffer as my frustration grew. Thank you for the content. :) Appreciate it.
I needed the bearing kit, Eugene had it in stock, shipped it and I installed it. The step by step video was very helpful. However, something happened during the repair and another issue arose. I contacted Eugene, we talked thru what the problem was and he was to successfully identify what was needed. He shipped me the required part, I installed it and machine now works great. Many thanks Eugene for your assistance. For anybody else out there needing DIY appliance repair assistance, I recommend Eugene!!
I followed this guy's video & it worked out great lg machine works great. An appliance company quoted $800.00.Thanks again.
Best LG repair-video I have ever seen!!!......THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
Good afternoon, I’m so grateful for this video. It was exceptionally good. I was able to follow it and my washer is like new. I’m so thankful and my wife is so happy. No more noise. The cost for the repair was doable. Thank you so much. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. God bless you greatly.
I could only imagine what a tech would have charged me to do this! Thanks for putting this video together, you covered all the bases and taught my 5 yo what eternity means. the package that you put together was perfect, I really can't thank you enough.
You saved my life. Spent what little i had on what the guy told me was a good working set and the bearings were toast thank you so much! Without you it would have been wasted money
The gasket goes up with the part where the ends of it are joined together, to eliminate the risk of leaking. It”s just spectacular to see the work you do. Thank you! Stay Blessed!
That is often the case. I wish Maytag had thought of that.....
I dont understand what you mean. I just put mine back together and have a leak somewhere so trying to figure it out
@@carlysoule2164 The gaskets has a join point; that should be placed up. If you are using the old gasket make sure you give it a good clean and also to the spaces where the gasket goes.
@@maxpax2338 I put a new one in. There was a mark on it I’m not sure if I put it up or facing down.
this was my first time doing this. i needed a 30 lb sledge and a 3 foot crowbar, and a ton of deep penetration fluid to get the basket out and get the bearings out. while the bearings were destroyed everything else looked great. thanks for the wonderful video. your calm and soothing instructions were great guidance and peace to me during whet would otherwise be an impossible project.
Second time doing this project in 2 years. Last time bought $20 kit on Amazon, the cheap seal failed so here I am again. It was half day pain last time. Decided that this time will be the last time so Bought and used your kit this week. Super kit at fair price and excellent video. Quality of material is NO comparison. You can see and feel the difference. Some Notes: to remove the plastic strut pins, use a 12 mm socket on the end with the stop. When you press on the socket, it depresses the stop and then you can pull out the pin with channel locks. To beat out the bearings, I used a 3/4 inch pipe section. That destroyed the pipe threads but no damage to the tub. Plus, easier to control and a bigger target for the mallet. Also, regarding the spider, brush off the soap scum and check for cracks. Now is the best time to replace it if there are any cracks. I had it go last time which is what caused bearing to go and the tub wobble so much that the gasket was melting from friction and filled basement with burnt rubber smell and smoke. Thank you again.
Thank you for making this video! I could not get my ball bearing in so I took your advice and I put them in the freezer for 24 hours and then was able to get them in easily.
This is one of, if not the best, step by step instructional video I have ever seen.
Than You for taking the time to make an informative How To Video.
The color dot in the rubber gasket seal for the tub indicates the splice. This is where the 2 ends are CA glued.
This color dot needs to be located towards the top of the tub. The word “ TOP” not to be mistaken for the gasket seal facing outwards.
But “TOP”, as in the physical location so as not to have the glued seal ends subjected to the bottom of the tub housing where the water level would be.
If the gasket seal is placed on top of the tub housing then there is no possible way for a water leak in the event water seeps out at the gasket seals glued ends.
I would like to thank you for a very thorough and knowledgeable video on how to do a bearing repair. My 15-year-old LG washer sounded like a jet engine. Upon tearing into it, I discovered the spider needed to be replaced. Also. I completed the project without any leftover screws and currently running a test wash cycle. You easily save me $600 - $800 as I only spent $200 in parts. Thank you again.
Thank you so much! Without this video, I would never have had the confidence to replace the bearings on my washing machine myself. Your instructions are great, they have the perfect balance of providing enough information while still being to the point. Hopefully my washing machine will last at least another 5 years now.
This video was the only reason I was able to completely disassemble and restore my 2011 LG front load washer to like new condition. I even took on replacement of the spider arm and agitators. Could not believe the amount of mystery goop throughout the machine. It took me about 8 hours total but it was worth it to get another 10+ years out of the machine. Thank you so much!
The bearings are not expensive to buy HOWEVER what he shows/teaches you is worth every penny! I followed this video and it worked great!!
Excellent tutorial! I just finished replacing the bearings on my 2009 LG washer and couldn’t have done it without your help. I was starting to think my washer fell into the 20% you said might not be repairable. After about 3 days of off and on pounding the shaft, a full can of penetraing fluid, several shattered pieces of 2x4s, and a broken handle on my sledgehammer I was just about ready to throw in the towel when the bearings finally let go (thankfully, without damaging anything else). What a relief! From then on, thanks to your clear instructions, it was smooth sailing. Can’t thank you enough.
This was an incredibly hard job for me, as just a home owner. However, I could not have done it without this video. Thank you so much, for taking the time to do this and for the detailed explanation through the whole thing. You are amazing!!
Glad it helped!
I’m here again 1 year later after replacing the last bearing as they have worn out again on a 6 year old machine.
All I can say is thank you for your videos. I’ve fixed my machine a hand full of times now
Thank you so much for the video. Extremely useful, (especially the siphon break plastic part which I found laying on the ground and didnt know what it was ) Something I did to get the bearings out . For the rear bearing I used a 22mm(?) socket on a 1/2 inch extension. It fits through the inside bearing and puts pressure evenly across the surface. Took about 8 seconds with a hand sledge to get it out and no damage to housing. For the inside bearing I used a 24 mm socket (biggest I had) on an 1/2" extension. took about 4 minutes, but no risk to housing surface.
Thanks for this tip! My old bearings came out pretty easily using this method! Hit the socket extension with a 3lb hand sledgehammer and they were out within a minute.
Sir am here humble to tell you thank you very much I watch this video last night and today at 5:00 I break of parts my lg ‘wm 0642wh its a little different but the way u splayed it’s literally helpful video thanks a lot and god bless you 😊
This tutorial is superlative!
All info and no bullshit.
What an extraordinary piece of work. This video sets the standard of how a "how to" video needs to be made.
Thank you so much for your effort, for your time, for sharing your expertise, and for explaining things for this dummy in a fashion that a six year old could understand.
You are a master!
I always go to youtube for how to, I didn't think there was video on this topic, my LG washer was so noisy it's scary, now I know why. This is a GREAT HOW TO video, much appreciated. Thank you
Great video, I appreciate the thoroughness, awareness of camera angles, and the fact that you showed the" break down"and "put together."
That darned boot seal, though. . .
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience in such an easy to follow, informative, and thorough video. It took me most of the day to replace the bearings, but I did it without any major issues. The sense of satisfaction I had as my newly repaired washer ran a load of clothes was tremendous, and I couldn't not have done it without your video. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Thank you for this video. By watching it, I was able to replace the bearings on my LG commercial washer which is much bigger but built very similarly. It was the most back breaking, strenuous, tedious, aggravating repair I have ever done. Getting the old rusted bearings out was a complete nightmare. Again, thank you. I couldn't have done it without your video and you saved me $6000 because I didn't have to buy a new machine.
I just changed out the shock absorbers on my LG washing machine. Using a 12mm closed wrench makes getting the plastic pin out really easy. Just slide it on the back of the pin and it will squeeze the locking tab down so you can pull the pin out with pliers. It's very easy. If you find that the wrench won't slide on to the back of the pin easily, it may be because the locking tab is butted up against the housing. Try pushing the pin in to back the locking tab from the housing surface and you'll be able to slide the wrench on.
Thank you!! Worked like a charm.
@@moonatics You're welcome! I'm glad that tip helped!
You saved my time. After 30min trying to get those out. 🎉
thank you for this video. phenomenal job explaining a complicated job
also, you convinced me not to attempt the repair. I appreciate your honesty and candor in discussing the difficulty and success rate of the job
Thank you for the very best quality video on this repair I did it myself and and the machine is back to normal. No more sounding like a freight train when in spin cycle . Your level of detail was fantastic and your experience showed. 100 Canadian dollars was my cost and my wife is happy . Thanks again from Canada
Simply awesome video. I was stuck getting the spin out. Hitting your no avail. Oil. Wait. Nothing. Then I saw the comment about using a sacrificial bolt of the same size. I didn’t have the same size, but a slighter smaller one. I sat on the drum, a couple a hits, and it moved right out.
This video of "how to" and "this might happen" was absolutely perfect.
You received an instant subscription.
Great job!!
One of the most informative videos on RUclips, you know your stuff.
Wow, just watching you sealed the deal that I do not want to do this...LOL Time for a new machine. At least I got 16 years out of my machine. Great video though!!!
Just want to really thank you for this video. It was more than thorough and I was able to get from A-to-Z with replacing my bearing(s), spider bracket, and door seal. And now she's quiet as a mouse. Thanks again!
Good video. I have been putting off the inevitable of replacing the noisy bearings on mine for several weeks. My viewpoint is that if the bearing is bad because of a seal leak, then the polish surface the seal rides on is probably not restorable, so I ordered a new shaft as well as bearings. I would use silicone grease to lubricant the shaft to seal surface since the seal rubber may be affected by petrolium based grease. I'm kind of surprised no one in the comments suggested using a brass drift to drive out the shaft and bearings to avoid damaging stuff. Brass drift and brass hammer are pretty standard tools for rebuilding manual transmissions.
Good points. I've watched a few of these videos and none have mentioned the abrasion a corroded shaft will cause a new seal. It's certainly designed to fail and a horrible construction as the seal/bearing is the first to fail and by far the hardest to get to.
Man, what a blessing this video was. Got my LG back up and running noise free in no time. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
This is the best "how to" video that I've ever watched, by a long shot! Thank you!
this video is very well done. Enough information to be extremely helpful, without any annoying unnecessary chatter. Very well done and great process explanation. Thank you
Excellent video. After understanding the scope and difficulties of this repair I won't attempt it. I am in my 70's with a bad back and I'm not the most patient man either. So I'll have to spend the bucks and get a new washer. I did fix a problem with the drum filling with water when the machine was off. That was an easy fix -- just replace the cold water soldenoid-valve.
Thanks for your honesty on the problems that might occur.
Fantastic! Takes you through the process step-by-step with no wasted time and lots of tips that saved me a LOT of time. One of the best repair videos I've seen. Too bad that RUclips doesn't back up incrementally to make re-assembly easier--but I didn't miss anything and the washer works great again. Thank you.
This video is very well done - one of the best "How To" videos I have seen.
The procedure is well planned and executed very well. with no silly distracting background music.
In my opinion, this procedure should only be attempted by experienced DIY'ers. It is fairly difficult and draws on a wide range of skills acquired over time.
One tip I can pass on - when removing the white plastic pins that hold the shock absorbers, I used a 13mm socket slipped over the end of the plastic pin and used it depress the
release tab. There is no way I could get a pair of pliers behind the shock absorber to squeeze the release tab.
I suggest anyone attempting to replace the tub bearings, set aside the better part of a day to focus on the procedure. I found that some of the tasks such as removing the last spring holding the tub was DIFFICULT for one person. I struggled but eventually got it done.
I successfully replaced the bearings and re-assembled the machine. The noise is gone!
Thanks for sharing this excellent tutorial.
Thank you for making this video! I just completed this repair. Took me about 5 hours over 2 days. My wife found a half tub with bearings installed. That made things a lot simpler.
I did every thing he said and it worked perfectly. The correct tools on hand is key and alternates to get the bearings out. Freezer for sure, and take your time putting those in.
wow thanks for this. You saved our family from having to buy a new washing machine! Much love
Thanks for the video. Your kit and this video saved me HOURS and allowed me to make a repair rather than buying new. Thank you!
I watch a lot of you tube videos to learn how to fix stuff. This is perhaps the best one I have ever watched. Turned out my spider was broken on my nine year old washer. On to buy a new one. Thank you for sharing your knowledge in such a simple yet complete manner.
Wonderful video. Heck the washer you used is almost an exact match to mine (mine doesn't have the drum heater). I took your advice and disassembled my washer before ordering the parts.
All was well and I just ordered your kit. My wife isn't too happy about the washer parts all over the living room for the next week or so, but it's balanced out with how much cash I'm saving by fixing it myself. Thanks!!
This video was a ton of fun to watch, knowing that I'm only changing the hall sensor, but went down the rabbit hole of all these other repairs
You can spray canned air upside down to cool the shaft and bearings to get them loose. When they are freezing cold, they come out with 8-10 easy whacks with a hammer. One full can is necessary to get all of the parts unstuck and reseated.
Also a bit of hdpe cutting board works better than wood for cushioning blows on the shaft.
Great video. Thank you so much.
Thank You!
Bought your kit and followed the video. Yes the job is a pain, but not too difficult with your instruction. Also now that I’m aware the tub is two pieces I added a drain pan under the washer.
Awesome video! My OEM bearings lasted about 17 years! I think these washing machines were the last of the good ones. I hear so many problems with the new appliances.
Hello, this video deserves an award. Awesome video, every step explained throughly and to the point. I have my washer apart, picking up the parts tomorrow and hopefully can put it back together.
Edit: got it back together and it's been a few weeks and it is still running. I don't think it's ever been this quiet.
Edit 2:
When I replaced the bearings, I had noticed some wear on the Spyder. I ignored it as I assumed it would be ok with the new bearings. This was a mistake on my part, and I should have replaced the Spyder. I did look up the cost, it was over $300 and I decided to not get it as a new washer costs about $900 and would be headache free for 5 years. Just FYI, if your Spyder is not in good shape, might be a good idea to replace that too. My washer is making loud noises again and needs to be repaired again. I think its time for a new washer.
I spent a lot of my youth in Germany and Italy. Still visit relations and friends whenever I can. LG in Europe is a far higher quality brand than LG in the US. I see LG washers and refrigerators running for decades in Europe and, here, you're lucky if you get four years.
@@ethelryan257
I agree the build quality is not good, as doing the repairs, I seen alot of areas they could improve quality. I work with sheet metal industry in the medical industry and these washers are not high quality for sure.
The quality of large appliances in America is truly pathetic. As long as consumers are willing to keep spending money on appliances that only last for a few years nothing's going to change.
@@ethelryan257 We have a LG washer that we bought in 1997 in Sweden, been used several times every week and the last 15 years only for work clothes (dairy farmers, so lots of dirty clothes). Just last week it started to make some noises, so probably time to get a new one (doubt that it's worth repairing at this point). Got to say that 25 years of heavy use is impressive.
@@ethelryan257 After 2 years my LG is salvage! I bought it new, it was a top model but I’m facing replacing it. It has the common problem of failing to enter the final high-speed spin. After only 2 YEARS! It gets to the start point of the last spin cycles, then stops, adds water, low spin, starts high spin, then stops. This repeats until I stop it! The pump was replaced. Next I’ll try the shocks and pressure switch if it tests bad. It’s basically scrap at this point though, after only 2 years. It was made for the American market. LG is junk! My last washing machine lasted 35 years. LG is junk, expensive $1000 mistake!
One Million Thank Yous! You're right that this was HARD, but actually achievable due to your time and effort in creating this video and sharing it! I would thumbs up again if I could! Thank you so much for saving me from buying a new washer! P.S. My washer was built in late 2008, so this is an epic win for me in this day and age.
Wow, I thought the videos I saw from other parts suppliers were detailed. I only found this after I already had mine apart and wanted to double check reinstallation. I wish I watched it earlier for all the tips, especially disconnecting the drain hose from the pump instead of the tub, and removing the metal bracket from the top of the frame. I didn't even notice the door switch wire harness clip. And your tip on reinstalling the door gasket spring is awesome - the last time I had to install it, it took my wife and me probably half an hour of cursing and trying different tools to pry the two sides of the spring apart! By the way, just guessing but I think the mark on the tub gasket shows where the seam is, and by locating it as high as possible minimizes or prevents leaks in case it separates.
This is a great video with easy to understand step by step instructions. The commentary is very accurate and very helpful all the way through the process. The only thing that I did differently was when pounding out the drum from the back side, I supported the tub housing upside down in the corner of my deck rail and then used a third support cut to length as a leg. This allowed the weight of the drum to hang while I was hitting on the shaft to free the drum from the bearings. Thank you very much for the video. Saved me tons of cash!
This is one of the best how to repair videos I’ve ever seen anywhere. Thank you for it. This should serve as a how to make repair video’s video. Amazing
Good video ,mission accomplished ! 4 hours ,putting in the seal was the hardest part ,trying to get it to sit straight ,
A huge thank you for putting this together and so detailed. I ended up having a cracked spider frame as well.
The tough part was figuring out how much to tighten the bolts holding the tub together. I had a leak the first time I used it, but luckily there is access to the bolts without removing.
I also ended up using a dremel to remove the larger bearing, it came out easy.
Would I tackle this again? Heck no! 😂
Thanks for the excellent video! I just replaced the bearings and shocks on my 16 year old machine and now it runs (and sounds!) like new.
Thanks for the video boss. It was an easy procedure overall, ended up replacing the spider in mine as the seal surface on the shaft was gone (rusted out), all in with OEM parts it was 450cad and now the washer performs as new. Spent more time cleaning everything than the repair itself lol. The alternative to replace the washer was not financially wise for me as new they are over 1k. Also, I used the trick that the other gentleman mentioned, using sockets and an extension to remove the bearings as using a punch rocks it side to side and the risk of damaging the mounting surface is not worth it.
Also gettings parts was quite difficult as well, days away.... Not many people repair anymore. Tons of these for sale on MarketPlace with the same proble
I watched a number of videos that showed how to go about changing the bearings, and I found yours the most useful. The hardest part was getting the old bearings out. I used the bar from some small dumbbells that had a 30mm end that could go through the hole in the small bearing, and it has a collar that is about 40mm. I hit it a few times with the mallet and it came out. To get out the larger one, I used a piece of pipe that is 38mm in diameter, and with one knock with the mallet, it was out. I guess the 38mm pipe could have done both. Your tips to get the new bearings back in were very helpful. Job completed but not tested as I need to install a new door lock sensor. Thanks for a really excellent video.
Wow! You’re the man! I followed your video step-by-step instructions and just completed this monumental task! You saved me big bucks!
Can't say enough about this video! You did a great job explaining everything. When I called about the kit you told me exactly what I needed for the "uncommon" kit, it worked perfectly, and you were spot on that it takes about 4 hours. I did it in 3 and a half😊 only because you had such a great video😂 Thank again. Virginia Beach washer fixed!
Extremely well done video on how to repair, and what the critical challenges are (can you get the bearings out?) to see if the unit is repairable.
Took a while to take apart & clean up (3 hrs) replace the bearings (30 minutes) and reassemble 2.5 hrs.
Total cost
At last someone not showing us undoing screws for 20min. And very informative
One of the best and most comprehensive fix videos I have seen!
My only suggestion is get some cheap led lights to fill in the shadows but all else was 100% professional and worth bookmarking. Yeah, I am subscribing now.
Couldn't get the shaft to pound out that way. Bought a longer bolt of the proper thread, built it up with some nuts and washers for spacers,tightened it up, and 3 swats on it with a big hammer, and the impossible became possible... Great video. Thanks for all of it!
Were you working on the same washer from the video? What size bolt did you end up needing? Thanks!
Excellent video, 30yr auto repair mechanic I have a lot of experience with pressing things apart, take the drum and flip it over support the plastic part with wood so the weight of the drum is helping you when hitting the shaft make sure the wood is not touching the steel drum , 3 hits with a hammer and wood and is was apart .. good luck !
I can’t thank you enough for this video. Start to finish job accomplished. (Looked like a garage sale in the middle) Saved me from making several key mistakes. Bless your soul!!
I encountered difficulty getting the bearings driven out, i found a 3/4” steel bar used as a punch with a 3 lbs sledge to be effective. I also replaced the spider, front seal, and shocks while doing this job. $570.000 in parts for a $1300 washer. But, washer (5.2 cu ft) was on indefinite backorder and the next larger size was 6 weeks out. I got the parts in a week and washer back up and running the day the parts came in.
Thanks for such a great video!
This video was great! I ordered the kit from you as well. I watched multiple videos. Yours is by far the best and most honest/realistic video. Getting the old bearings out was a beast but your tips helped. Definitely get some good penetrating fluid and let it soak and for sure freeze the new bearings (super helpful).
Thank You!