I just did this exact repair this weekend before watching this video. It was obvious what the result would look like, but extracting the original screw was always going to be tricky. What I did was to put the piece in the lathe and turn off the remnants of the screw so that I had a flat surface to work from. From that point it was just a simple task to centre punch the centre of the screw and progressively drill out to the edge of the threads. Starting with a 1.5mm drill and going up to 3.2mm. The remains of the threads then just fell out. After pushing the brass nut flush with the top I could then just run an M4 tap down the hole to clean it up. For the other two new screws I went 12mm deep. As far as I’m concerned it’s a permanent fix.
Ok great. It’s probably a common occurrence given how they are designed. It could be argued it is a mechanical fuse. Anyway glad you got it sorted out.
Hi: Good video and good work. Remember that bronze only carries only one screw because it acts as a mechanical fuse. Now it has 3 screws and set with glue, so the element "mechanical fuse" has disappeared. Anyway, the way of doing the job deserves a great like. Greetings.
Hi, Same lathe and same apprehensions but so glad I went down this route! My tailstock had a problem but it was to do with the tread, halfway along its travel it would bind (still uasable but stiff) one of the threads had been bent over, easy fix. Another problem I had was the leadscrew shear pin (replaced with a solid brass one now) @ the headstock never snapped when I got a bit cocky whilst power feeding, bent the drive gear and Warco wanted 58£ for the privilege I could have made one for well my time really as I had the barstock! Merry one to ye Dude. TFS, GB :)
OK the leadscrew drive pin issue is interesting. Especially as I am about to finish my electronic leadscrew project and it will be driven with a servo! Do you know the diameter of the pin as I might do the same. Thanks.
Just did a similar repair to my Logan 11". Tailstock and screw were worn out, put a brass nut in like this with locktite and a press / heat and cool fit. Working so far.
To remove a screw that is glued with loctite you can soak it in acetone over night. Better than protecting the surface with a paper towel is to cut a beer can with scissors and wrap it around. The aluminium is a better protection, and gives more friction to hold it in place.
Excellent fix…I was a bit worried when you were tapping the holes that you didn’t use cutting fluid, or back off the tap occasionally to prevent breaking to small tap….but all went well…I’m going to check mine now…👍
nice fix mate ,i have a mini lathe etc ,i would have drilled and tapped from the outside diameter into the brass stopping just short of the thread but you did a good job....i am covid ridden and laid up glued to youtube and netflix,cheers from adelaide ...
Nice work. To avoid future tool issues getting stuck in the tailstock, find yourself a bronze wire brush from a gun shop for a 12 or 20 gauge shotgun barrel cleaning rod. Add a threaded drive rod that will fit your battery drill and just use some CRC5-56 or WD40 to lubricate it well and run that bronze wire brush up the inside of the Morse taper sleeve a few times at low rpms. If there’s any chips or dirt that’s become imbedded in the Morse sleeve wall, that should hopefully free it up and remove it. The bronze wire brush should be soft enough that it doesn’t remove any metal from your Morse taper steel sleeve. They get used on chrome bored shotgun barrels to remove lead fouling etc so should be safe enough inside a Morse taper spindle sleeve imho. There’s 3 common gauges 12 bore, 20 bore (a bit smaller than 12 bore) & then 410 caliber which is a little under half inch. You should be able to buy bronze brushes for shotgun barrels at your local gun shop. Sometimes you have to buy the whole cleaning kit, with push rod and patches and chemical etc, but more often than not you can buy spare bronze brushes for the cleaning kits so that might be the cheapest option.
Interesting idea I will look into it. I’m in the UK and I don’t know of any ‘local gun shops’, or any gun shops for that matter. I would probably have to look online for the cleaning brushes.
@@routercnc9517 Online would work for sure. The UK has a large shotgunning community who shoot clay target competitions at their club country estates, they also have famous shotgun manufacturers etc. I’d be really surprised if you can’t find a local gun shop with a quick Google search, but if you don’t mind waiting you’ll likely get them much cheaper on line through Amazon and the like for sure. 👍
That makes no sense. Having 3 set screws at 120 degrees apart spreads the load equally, 33% on each screw, as opposed to having 100% of the load on one screw. Forgive me for not understanding what your trying to convey my friend.
Not sure I follow. I repaired the original damaged thread, then added 2 more at close to 120 degrees apart but the keyway location meant they weren’t exactly 120 degrees. It has been working well for a while now.
I have the same problem on the same lathe only mine is blue (HBM), will need to take a look to see if the problem is the same, mine still ejects on tangs but is difficult on the flat ended ones. A stitch in time as they say, before it stops altogether, Thanks
OK looks interesting. I’ll see I they are interested in a review on the channel, might be a little way off as I have some home projects to progress, thanks
oh wow your mill has a lot of run out on that drill chuck. Thats not helping. You also have the part standing way too high. Hold that in a couple of v blocks and it will help with the wobble.
Yes it just a cheap keyless chuck. I did look into low run out chucks a while ago and would like to swap it out one day. Maybe a Rohm model at £112, not decided.
@@routercnc9517 unless you heat it up to making it glow or melt, metal will expand and contract very reliably without much changes. glue breaks down easily at 300C, which doesn't effect the metal at all
This comment appeared on my lathe video but I guess you mean the drill press video. Yes more working space would be better but I couldn’t get a design I was happy with for the knee. It is still very useable like it is but I will keep thinking about options. Thanks
Наука
I just did this exact repair this weekend before watching this video. It was obvious what the result would look like, but extracting the original screw was always going to be tricky. What I did was to put the piece in the lathe and turn off the remnants of the screw so that I had a flat surface to work from. From that point it was just a simple task to centre punch the centre of the screw and progressively drill out to the edge of the threads. Starting with a 1.5mm drill and going up to 3.2mm. The remains of the threads then just fell out. After pushing the brass nut flush with the top I could then just run an M4 tap down the hole to clean it up. For the other two new screws I went 12mm deep. As far as I’m concerned it’s a permanent fix.
Ok great. It’s probably a common occurrence given how they are designed. It could be argued it is a mechanical fuse. Anyway glad you got it sorted out.
Hi: Good video and good work. Remember that bronze only carries only one screw because it acts as a mechanical fuse. Now it has 3 screws and set with glue, so the element "mechanical fuse" has disappeared. Anyway, the way of doing the job deserves a great like. Greetings.
Yes I guess there is that. Hopefully it will be OK.
Meticulous work but it deserved a set of wooden "V" blocks when holding the Quill.
Wakodahatchee Chris
Actually yes that would have been better, thanks
Hi, Same lathe and same apprehensions but so glad I went down this route! My tailstock had a problem but it was to do with the tread, halfway along its travel it would bind (still uasable but stiff) one of the threads had been bent over, easy fix. Another problem I had was the leadscrew shear pin (replaced with a solid brass one now) @ the headstock never snapped when I got a bit cocky whilst power feeding, bent the drive gear and Warco wanted 58£ for the privilege I could have made one for well my time really as I had the barstock! Merry one to ye Dude. TFS, GB :)
OK the leadscrew drive pin issue is interesting. Especially as I am about to finish my electronic leadscrew project and it will be driven with a servo! Do you know the diameter of the pin as I might do the same. Thanks.
Just did a similar repair to my Logan 11". Tailstock and screw were worn out, put a brass nut in like this with locktite and a press / heat and cool fit. Working so far.
Good work!
To remove a screw that is glued with loctite you can soak it in acetone over night.
Better than protecting the surface with a paper towel is to cut a beer can with scissors and wrap it around. The aluminium is a better protection, and gives more friction to hold it in place.
Good idea
Excellent fix…I was a bit worried when you were tapping the holes that you didn’t use cutting fluid, or back off the tap occasionally to prevent breaking to small tap….but all went well…I’m going to check mine now…👍
Sometimes I back off and clean the tap, depends how it feels and the depth etc. thanks
nice fix mate ,i have a mini lathe etc ,i would have drilled and tapped from the outside diameter into the brass stopping just short of the thread but you did a good job....i am covid ridden and laid up glued to youtube and netflix,cheers from adelaide ...
Ok yes that would work too. Hope you feel better soon.
Try Cutting Edge Engineering to keep you entertained!
You mill holes with a two flute cutter sir as they cut off centre
Nice work. To avoid future tool issues getting stuck in the tailstock, find yourself a bronze wire brush from a gun shop for a 12 or 20 gauge shotgun barrel cleaning rod.
Add a threaded drive rod that will fit your battery drill and just use some CRC5-56 or WD40 to lubricate it well and run that bronze wire brush up the inside of the Morse taper sleeve a few times at low rpms.
If there’s any chips or dirt that’s become imbedded in the Morse sleeve wall, that should hopefully free it up and remove it.
The bronze wire brush should be soft enough that it doesn’t remove any metal from your Morse taper steel sleeve.
They get used on chrome bored shotgun barrels to remove lead fouling etc so should be safe enough inside a Morse taper spindle sleeve imho.
There’s 3 common gauges 12 bore, 20 bore (a bit smaller than 12 bore) & then 410 caliber which is a little under half inch.
You should be able to buy bronze brushes for shotgun barrels at your local gun shop.
Sometimes you have to buy the whole cleaning kit, with push rod and patches and chemical etc, but more often than not you can buy spare bronze brushes for the cleaning kits so that might be the cheapest option.
Interesting idea I will look into it. I’m in the UK and I don’t know of any ‘local gun shops’, or any gun shops for that matter. I would probably have to look online for the cleaning brushes.
@@routercnc9517 Online would work for sure.
The UK has a large shotgunning community who shoot clay target competitions at their club country estates, they also have famous shotgun manufacturers etc.
I’d be really surprised if you can’t find a local gun shop with a quick Google search, but if you don’t mind waiting you’ll likely get them much cheaper on line through Amazon and the like for sure. 👍
That makes no sense. Having 3 set screws at 120 degrees apart spreads the load equally, 33% on each screw, as opposed to having 100% of the load on one screw. Forgive me for not understanding what your trying to convey my friend.
Not sure I follow. I repaired the original damaged thread, then added 2 more at close to 120 degrees apart but the keyway location meant they weren’t exactly 120 degrees. It has been working well for a while now.
@@davidsnyder2000 basically 3 screws are better than one….not rocket science
Nice little fix there do u have coolant on the bandsaw yet next up 👍👌🏻👊🏼
For some reason the manual for the saw says not to use coolant. Maybe it gets Ito the bearings or something.
I have the same problem on the same lathe only mine is blue (HBM), will need to take a look to see if the problem is the same, mine still ejects on tangs but is difficult on the flat ended ones. A stitch in time as they say, before it stops altogether, Thanks
Worth taking a few seconds to eject the quill and see if the nut has moved. Then plan from there.
Have you considered adding a LINN tools tailstock DRO? I would like to hear your opinion on it.
Tailstock DRO is on the to-do list but I haven’t done anything on it. I’ll have a look at them but it will be a way off. Thanks
OK looks interesting. I’ll see I they are interested in a review on the channel, might be a little way off as I have some home projects to progress, thanks
For anyone reading this thread I’ve now done a review of the Linn tailstock DRO on my channel. I liked it so check it out if you are interested.
Stolen! Thank you!
I have exactly the same issue on my Chester DB10 (Same lathe...different colour!)
I'll be modding mine also!
You are most welcome. Good luck with it!
oh wow your mill has a lot of run out on that drill chuck. Thats not helping. You also have the part standing way too high. Hold that in a couple of v blocks and it will help with the wobble.
Yes it just a cheap keyless chuck. I did look into low run out chucks a while ago and would like to swap it out one day. Maybe a Rohm model at £112, not decided.
Was that a hint of a new project, can it be improved? Yes it can 👍. 🤔
I do have something planned for the lathe but it is several months away.
Heat is your best friend
Yes that would have helped with the glue
@@routercnc9517 unless you heat it up to making it glow or melt, metal will expand and contract very reliably without much changes. glue breaks down easily at 300C, which doesn't effect the metal at all
Cut up beer cans make better shims than paper towels
Yes good idea
You definitely need to modify (more) and get more room (travel from the knee as it is , it isn't useful as a tool
This comment appeared on my lathe video but I guess you mean the drill press video. Yes more working space would be better but I couldn’t get a design I was happy with for the knee. It is still very useable like it is but I will keep thinking about options. Thanks
See drill press series as I’m doing just that right now!