Nice lathe lead screw tip for saving rework in time. Hi ADE, time does not allow for the dust to settle onto these aluminum rounds, as you already called up one for usage, what a nice viewer sending this to you and it is not going to go to waste great use. 17:38 love the radius. What a beautiful part 1 will be back for part 2, take your time, we love what you make share and chat about, well we just love it all. Lance & Patrick.
Just ordered myself a warco 240 based on yours and a few others videos. At the moment I have a similar sized machine to the 180 but it's a different brand with considerably less meat & rigidity to the bed. Impresses with what I've seen on here with the Warcos. My wife had been moaning I never spend money on fun things. I'm sure she'll be delighted once she finds out what I've treated 'us' to.
I bought about 20 of these from a boot sale in Cardiff, havn't used any yet, but it does look like quality aluminium. Glad to see you have found a good use for it Ade.
Very cool idea to put a crank on the leadscrew, my buddy Eldon put a cogged pulley on his for running a variable-speed motor to feed the carriage but yours is a new one to me. I can see why you would want one, will be watching to see how it comes together!
A nice mod Ade, my Warco 300 has a handle there but does NOT have a hand wheel on the saddle, so I have to use the end one. I'll swap you any day Ade, hate the idea of standing down the far end feeding the saddle in !( mine has 20" length bed and it seems a mile away from the business end !) I love your videos mate, keep 'em coming!
An old Inspector from my apprentice days - Norman "Half Thou' Harrison " we called him, always said "There in't a Fasht enough Shpeed for Aliminium Shon"
I made one for my WM180 a few weeks ago and it makes for very smooth cuts without having to use the power feed (and the lathe is a lot quieter without the power feed). The mass of the gears on the end of the leadscrew do give it a bit of inertia so it keeps moving when you let go so I tend to use a bit of carriage lock to add friction. I just bored out a smaller OD bar to snugly fit over the existing nut and secured it with a grub screw then cut a disk of 10mm nylon for the wheel. Doesn't look as nice as yours but it does the job. Couldn't do without it now!
You prolly dont give a damn but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid lost the login password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Kenneth Dexter I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Nice modification in the works Ade! I really liked the finish you got on the internal radius :) Are you going to get some overhead transparency film and print a scale on it to suit the lead screw so you have some graduations? Looking forward to the next part. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Ade, thanks so much for sharing this videos. Would you mind show how align the tailstock? I'm having a lot of issues with that, it's so misaligned I can't even use to drill. Thanks again
That must be really bad . i will try to do one soon , in the mean time , put the centre in the headstock and the centre in the tailstock and play with the adjusters to get the two points together , it is a good starting point , will address this soon , Cheers Ade.
I wish my lathe had that feature. I can disconnect the thread gears via a lever behind my headstock. How ever the lead screw does not have any retention on the tail stock end it’s just captured between the two pillow bearings and locked on via the gear in the gear box
My lathe sounds like yours - lead screw locked to a gearbox at the headstock, and a bit of steel floating in some cast iron at the tailstock... Makes me want to machine a new bearing block with some thrust bearings (or angular contact) just to reduce the axial play :)
Hi Ade, Many thanks for the video :) A quick question if I may...while looking at the lead screw... I am hopefully about to purchase a wm180, but have seen that it may not cut left hand threads. I'm fairly sure this wont be an issue for me...but do you have a suggestion for a way round this?
Ade can i ask you a question on the mt3 - er32 collet chuck you use, does the hole go all the way through the center of the chuck. So that you could hold some longer stock in the collets ? thanks.
Great tip there .Here is another one . Put a socket on the long nut for a quick hand wheel then get a bit of plywood drill through to take socket head .Cut o/d to handle size of your choice . Araldite finishes the job . Down and Dirty.
Vegetable Oil is very good a a cutting fluid - save the old chip pan oil instead of throwing it away & use it from an old detergent pump spray (Flash A-Aaaaa!!)
Nice lathe lead screw tip for saving rework in time.
Hi ADE, time does not allow for the dust to settle onto these aluminum rounds, as you already called up one for usage, what a nice viewer sending this to you and it is not going to go to waste great use.
17:38 love the radius.
What a beautiful part 1 will be back for part 2, take your time, we love what you make share and chat about, well we just love it all.
Lance & Patrick.
Another great idea, thanks for sharing your skill.
Just ordered myself a warco 240 based on yours and a few others videos. At the moment I have a similar sized machine to the 180 but it's a different brand with considerably less meat & rigidity to the bed. Impresses with what I've seen on here with the Warcos. My wife had been moaning I never spend money on fun things. I'm sure she'll be delighted once she finds out what I've treated 'us' to.
Nice tip using the milling cutter as lathe tool 👍 !
yet another good project Ade
Nice job Ade well done
Really nice work. Thank you
I bought about 20 of these from a boot sale in Cardiff, havn't used any yet, but it does look like quality aluminium. Glad to see you have found a good use for it Ade.
Very cool idea to put a crank on the leadscrew, my buddy Eldon put a cogged pulley on his for running a variable-speed motor to feed the carriage but yours is a new one to me. I can see why you would want one, will be watching to see how it comes together!
A nice mod Ade, my Warco 300 has a handle there but does NOT have a hand wheel on the saddle, so I have to use the end one. I'll swap you any day Ade, hate the idea of standing down the far end feeding the saddle in !( mine has 20" length bed and it seems a mile away from the business end !) I love your videos mate, keep 'em coming!
Hey Ades, mal wieder ein sehr gutes Projekt , ich nutze auch solche Handräder an meiner Holzman ED400 und Quantum D210x320.
An old Inspector from my apprentice days - Norman "Half Thou' Harrison " we called him, always said "There in't a Fasht enough Shpeed for Aliminium Shon"
Thankyou Ade good video I wil do the same 👍🏻
Thanks Ade
I made one for my WM180 a few weeks ago and it makes for very smooth cuts without having to use the power feed (and the lathe is a lot quieter without the power feed). The mass of the gears on the end of the leadscrew do give it a bit of inertia so it keeps moving when you let go so I tend to use a bit of carriage lock to add friction. I just bored out a smaller OD bar to snugly fit over the existing nut and secured it with a grub screw then cut a disk of 10mm nylon for the wheel. Doesn't look as nice as yours but it does the job. Couldn't do without it now!
You prolly dont give a damn but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid lost the login password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Lucian Damian instablaster :)
@Kenneth Dexter I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Kenneth Dexter It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
@Lucian Damian No problem :D
That's probably 2024 or 7075. Great stuff.
Nice modification in the works Ade! I really liked the finish you got on the internal radius :)
Are you going to get some overhead transparency film and print a scale on it to suit the lead screw so you have some graduations?
Looking forward to the next part. Thanks for sharing!
I did think of putting a scale on it but with the DRO there is no need , Cheers Ade.
Hi Ade, thanks so much for sharing this videos. Would you mind show how align the tailstock? I'm having a lot of issues with that, it's so misaligned I can't even use to drill. Thanks again
That must be really bad . i will try to do one soon , in the mean time , put the centre in the headstock and the centre in the tailstock and play with the adjusters to get the two points together , it is a good starting point , will address this soon , Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug thanks a lot Ade. I think, for some reason is not a height alignment issue. I'm pretty sure is not centered, I mean it's off of its axis
I wish my lathe had that feature. I can disconnect the thread gears via a lever behind my headstock. How ever the lead screw does not have any retention on the tail stock end it’s just captured between the two pillow bearings and locked on via the gear in the gear box
My lathe sounds like yours - lead screw locked to a gearbox at the headstock, and a bit of steel floating in some cast iron at the tailstock... Makes me want to machine a new bearing block with some thrust bearings (or angular contact) just to reduce the axial play :)
Adam Carmichael I have the little machine shop 5100. It’s a sieg. SC3 I think.
Hi Ade, Many thanks for the video :) A quick question if I may...while looking at the lead screw... I am hopefully about to purchase a wm180, but have seen that it may not cut left hand threads. I'm fairly sure this wont be an issue for me...but do you have a suggestion for a way round this?
I have seen a modification done using a tumbler gear , i think it was on a forum somewhere, i cannot remember where though, Cheers Ade,
ruclips.net/video/xwsXNChYB7Y/видео.html Here you go.
Could you have stopped the cutoff long enough to cut that second radius then, finish the cutoff ?
Ade can i ask you a question on the mt3 - er32 collet chuck you use, does the hole go all the way through the center of the chuck. So that you could hold some longer stock in the collets ? thanks.
No i does not , i do have a collet chuck that mounts on the hedstock that does , Cheers Ade
@@ade63dug Is that the collet chuck that bolts onto the flange, do you know if most of the mt type collet chucks dont have through holes in them.
@@gillian9178 AFAIK all MT shanks are solid.
Great tip there .Here is another one .
Put a socket on the long nut for a quick hand wheel then get a bit of plywood drill through to take socket head .Cut o/d to handle size of your choice .
Araldite finishes the job .
Down and Dirty.
Although Veg' oil is cheap enough to use from New!! (That's just my Yorkshiremans "Ow't for Now't" coming out lol)
very time I watch this I go looking for my phone near the end !
I've been doing similar, they make excellent boring bars for holes a bit too small to get a proper boring bar in
Vegetable Oil is very good a a cutting fluid - save the old chip pan oil instead of throwing it away & use it from an old detergent pump spray (Flash A-Aaaaa!!)
Enjoy the out takes, video production seems more difficult than the machining.
It can be , good days and bad days , Cheers Ade.
Cv
,l