Replace a Broken Brass Toilet Flange Without Using Solder
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- Опубликовано: 24 янв 2015
- I purchased the new American Standard Optum VorMax toilet to replace our current American Standard toilet. When I removed the old toilet I found the brass closet flange was not screwed down and floating above a rough and uneven surface. I removed the uneven surface and replaced it with new 1/2" and 3/4" plywood, I used a 5" hole saw in the new plywood to fit around the lead bend and brass closet flange. I sealed the lead pipe to the new brass closet flange using plastic seal and peening it to the brass.
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Absolutely the best info for this situation. Thank you for the Plastic Seal tip! I was working on a concrete slab and had to use different method to raise the height, but the lead bend sealing to brass flange was exactly the same. Thank you for sharing this, as a plumber would’ve taken a big bite out of the budget.
You want to tin the flange, clean up the lead pipe with wire brush and flux the outside. Add the ring. Use 50/50 solder. The ring and lead joins fairly easily, the solder actually helps the lead melt as well. There’s a video on here of doing the job. It offers structure when you solder. After adding the glue, you lose the option to solder. At some point, if your not willing to learn by practice, just pay a plumber. You will also get inspection recommendations when they are premise. It’s another benefit.
Great Job. This is the only RUclips video that I could find for fixing a toilet flange to a lead pipe (the same problem that I have). Thanks for posting! Happy to see I don't have to solder the pipe to the flange, apparently it's easy to melt a hole in the lead pipe for someone w/o the experience.
+Robert Speckmann I'm glad this video was able to help you out. Honestly I was in the same boat as you. I spoke with a few different plumbers and they all advised me against soldering the pipe myself as you can easily melt right through it. They all recommended plastic seal and some other product, however, the other product came in a can and wasn't as easy to apply in a tight groove.
very helpful video. Describing the lead material was helpful because that is what I have in my 1926 house.
Chuck I'm pleased you found this video helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.
thanks Erik! I was going to go with an expandable ID PVC flange but after seeing this I'm now just going to clean up the old OD flange and use the plastic seal instead of lead. This video was very well explained and very helpful. thanks again! Freddie
Hey Freddie, I'm glad you found this video helpful. Please feel free to ask any additional questions you have have and do share your results once the work has been completed.
Thank you for this video. I was able to copy you, using plumbers Goop to seal between the old lead and the new long-tongue brass closet flange. Peened the lead after the Goop set a bit and then prayed. So far so good. Used a poly donut instead of wax in case i needed to get right back in and tweak the fix. So far holding up.
thanks for this video i will try plastic seal
I did this. Worked great. Had a lot more lip on the led than u did too. This was 1959 they didn't solder it either just bent it over the flange, never leaked. That Hercules silicone is probably better than solder imo.
Thanks Erik, just what I needed to know. Not many suggestions about what flange to use on a lead pipe protruding from a concrete floor. When I removed the toilet it didn't even have a flange, but the bolts are grouted into place.
Very well done video!!!
Nice job. That was floor mud mix. It was used in place of concrete board for the tile
That was great info thanks.
I'm here because a contractor pulled the toilet straight off the lead bend. It literally broke right at the weld from the bend to the flange. The toilet sat on a block because it was high as all hell. The floor was raised and I still have enough lead to get the thing on. You're video is gonna help me tremendously. I'm about half way through, curious if you're going to solder this.
Edit: Oh hell naw there's 5050 going under mine. Thanks for showing me the prep but I dont do junky products over original installation
I had used plastic seal instead of solder and it has held up well for many years - no smells or leaks.
What is “5050”?
@@ErikAsquith 50 lead 50 solder. I think they make a 100% lead though not sure.
Its not the many years I'm worried about. At the end of life of flange I need to replace it the same way I took it out and usually quick fix products as such cause problems for me down the road. Just speaking from experience.
Very helpful... thanks
Good job
Hi Erik,
I was wondering looking at the final end of your video where you see the flange connected to the wood piece.Are you going to have enough room for the johnny bolts to slide in between the flange and the wood so you could secure the toilet? It looks like you don't have space.
There's a small lip along the edge that will provide the necessary spacing between the floor/subfloor and the flange so that you can slide the closet bolts into place.
Great video, but for next time use the ball side of the hammer. Thats whats its made for
Great Job !!!
Chino Chan Thanks!
You use the ball peen side of the hammer for peening....
Thanks!
There a company called CS Osborne located in Harrison NJ that sells all the irons for working with lead pipe
I've been struggling with these out of my property. It's a 95-year-old building and there's nothing under the flange to hold it. Nowhere to screw the flange down. And getting a hold of oakum, and pouring pot and lead sticks isn't proving. very easy So I've been wondering about JB Weld Removing the old plan. Laying down a new brass Lounge and then filling the gap between the lead pipe. With JB Weld, Of course, I would wire brush.Clean first but I'm wondering if JB Weld or another product would be strong as the Oakum and the solder
Any leaks or regrets? Helpful video, thanks! One comment....using longer screws to anchor flange might hit the lead bend if it was installed close to the underside of the floor. Hope your bend was well below floor level.
I'm glad you found this video helpful! The seal between the flange and lead bend have worked out flawlessly. We have not had any leaks or sewer gas smells. My lead bend took a 90 degree angle towards the rear wall and then straight down to exterior wall to the basement. I had about 3" of clearance between the bottom of the sub floor and the top of the lead bend. While I did use longer screws, I fastened them to the left and right of the lead bend to ensure they wouldn't meet.
Flange should be on top of finished surface. Should have either added more tile or another spacer.
The schmoo on the subfloor is ancient, dried out plumbers putty
Hi my brass pipe is not leveled because of foundation movement (we fix foundations when me moved here). What would you do differently and what sealant would you recommend?
Our plummer wants to cut the pipe and that would cost A lot
Thanks
Giorgio Sericeno is the lead bend (pipe) or brass toilet flange not level?
Were did you purchase the brass closet flange that you ended up using? Thanks.
Paul B I had purchased it from a local plumbing supply. The big box stores did not have any with a deep flange.
@@ErikAsquith I found one thanks.
Nice job there. I just did the same thing but used one of those compression flanges that slides inside the pipe and you tighten it up with 3 screws inside to make a tight seal. It lips over the top so no chance of a leak. ( Oatey 43539 ) Just another option.
Did you have to trim off the top of the lead pipe?
@@dksculpture I did. Used a cut off wheel on a 4 inch side grinder, messy as hell but works. Hold a shop vac hose beside it to minimize mess.
The flange needs to be ABOVE the level of the finished floor. Yours appears to be slightly below the top of the tile surface. Perhaps it's due to the camera angle.
Thanks for the feedback. The wood surface is flush with the surrounding tile floor. The brass flange is sitting above the surrounding finished tile floor.
How u get the closet bolts in?
The closet flange has a slightly larger opening to slide the head of the closet bolt head in. Then you cgan move the closet bolt under the part of the flange where the opening is smaller, which will prevent it from pulling up and out when you tighten down the nut.
How about a deep flange
Shit... Mine didn't even have the flange ring.
particle board
Mike John is that what the mess is under the flange?
Were is this guy
What is he doing ??????
+mike mike "Were is this guy" - English?
Hi Erik
I am fixing my brass flange. And it just looks exactly thin with no neck like the one u showed at the beginning. The problem is I found a big long pipe - which is inside the original sewer line - with its libs covering over the flange. When I went to Rona they told me it is a Toilet Lead connection. It looks like a huge inverted big bottle.
And now I'm stacked.
Don't know what should I do.
+Tarek El Kharboutly Are you able to see the pipe the lead bend connects to? Perhaps they reduced the throat of the lead bend to mate with a 3" or small pipe? Are you able to get access to the lead bend under the floor (ex. from the basement)? If so, I would just remove it and install some new PVC (which is what I plan on doing in my 1st floor bathroom).
All the comments saying well done lmfao this is not the correct way… you have to solder the lead to the brass flange smh hack job
I spoke with 2 different plumbers and a plumbing supply store and they all stated that this was a sufficient and adequate solution, and that soldering was not necessary. If I had received this information from only the plumbing supply store, or perhaps only one plumber, then I would have questioned if this was an acceptable application.
Have you seen this product used in the field for this type of application after 5, 10, or 20 years? If yes, how did it hold up?
I just unbolted and removed my toilet to check the seal between the lead and brass and it still appears both water and air tight after 6 years. I tied spaying some water with dye mixed in as well as using an air compressor around the seal - I could not feel any moister or air getting through from below (since I had access from the ceiling below).
While I have don’t know how it will hold up for 10, 20, or more years, it appears to be holding up well after 6 years.
@@ErikAsquith I think there's a good chance it will hold up as long as everything is mechanically rigid, so there's no force on the adhesive seal. The only thing I might have done differently, in your case, is to really work the adhesive further down into the joint between the pipe and flange as well as the bead you made at the top. Of course, if you ever had to remove the flange, it would be a lot more difficult.
Lazy job
Butcher job. Leave plumbing to plumbers
What did you find unacceptable with the results? Did you find that the results were no better than leaving the existing toilet flange in the broken state and not securely mounted to the sub floor?
@@ErikAsquith didnt figure you would get a reply, always an asshole somewhere. Great video , Thank you.
Erik Asquith
1. The way to do it is to use bar solder and solder it.
2. He left wood under the bowl. Wood swells with moisture and can crack the bowl.
I am a plumber. When I go to a home I do the proper job, next time buy a roll of 50/50 bar solder. Clean it up, level it using steel shims. Solder the flange properly. And never use wood to shim, as it can swell and crack the China.
Ahh, they're going to sell the house and leave it for the next sucker
Thank you SO MUCH!!! This is exactly what I have, and out of hundreds of videos this was the ONLY one that helped me!!! I didn't know what I had and tried to cut it off and really butchered it. I hope I can still make it work..😬 Do I have to use brass with the lead pipe, or can I use any flange?
Where can I get the adhesive that you used to seal it with?