Changed the oil in my 322 yesterday for the first time since purchase and it had the exact same orange bolt in the oil pan. What are the chances, or maybe it was something deere used?
Well another problem i seen right away “Fram oil filter” i use nothing but napa gold made by wix,, fram is nothing but cardboard filter paper ,, anyway as always buddy thank you for the video..
@@gregolson5532 Actually, Super Tech (Walmart) gets really high ratings over at Bob.Is.The.Oil.Guy. for short oil change intervals. www.bobistheoilguy.com/
just found your channel. I own and work hard my 322 JD. I am studying the ignition lockout mechanisms. I have an intermittent no-crank. The engine starts & runs good, when the lockout switches function. Could you do a video on those mechanisms? (seat switch, hydraulic forward/reverse switch, clutch/brake, power takeoff-PTO, what else?)
I noticed you were able to start it without pushing the clutch brake in. Do you know where the switch is for the clutch brake. I have to have the clutch brake pushed all the way forward to turn the key to start. This morning I went to start it it ran, then started to stop but I dodn't get to the cold engine choke in time. So I went to start it again and would not turn over. The bypass switch for the operaters seat is functional and both fuses have power to both sides. So I want to verify that the clutch brake bypass switch is connected/functional but I can't find it. Never park your tractor in a messy garage facing forward, always back it in.
Some machines had switches and others did not.... depends on the year. I do not know if this one has a jumper or doesn’t have a switch to start with. I’ll have to look tomorrow and confirm where that switch is at. On the newer machines it is right my the brake shaft on the frame.
@@mmrbeef well I'm pretty sure now the problem is the brake switch. I was able to verify the all the other saftey switches on the circuit were working properly. Never did get access to the brake switch but I ran a farmer fix line directly to the starter solenoid from the battery with one hand while holding the seat down with the other and she fired right off. I also had read somewhere that the brake switch is riveted to the frame. I can see 2 little rivets sticking through the frame near the brake linkage pivot point so I assume the brake switch is on the INSIDE of the durn frame. Oh well now that I was able to back it out I can take the mower off and block it up a bit and have a look at the switch and it's connections. Only other possible problem might be the relay itself.
I don't know about you but I live in northeast Kansas and we get over 100° F days in the summer during the peak of mowing season, so I run straight SAE 40 weight in all my air cooled KOHLERS & ONANS... But I also realize your 322 is water cooled...
My dad has one of these that he bought new in 1988. It's been garage kept. Last record I can find of repair is 2011 (he kept all the receipts). We got some Zero turns and just parked it. Any idea what we would need to do to get it running?
9 years is a good amount of time in storage. The first thing I would do it drain the gas tank, check the air filter (mice might have built a nest), and check the coolant. Then see if it runs. If it runs, then change all the fluids and filters. Not much you need to do beyond that if it runs. If it doesn't run then you would need to spend some time doing some step wise problem solving.
have you ever worked on the kohlers on the 200 series? i have a video on my channel showing what is happening. what i have found is my coil exploded because my battery had 18 volts. idk how that happend it has been sitting all winter out of the tractor. i have not even charged it. anyways do you have any idea if that would cause it or what could cause it. it ran fine last year. just pulled it out for a show.
thanks for the vid good job a usual...one easy way to test a coil, borrow another plug wire form another cylinder. if no difference in performance then coil bad... old hot rod trick (for those who cannot afford volt meters)....and looking at the radiator cap please replace that it looks like arse and probably performs like arse. as for oil, get it hot and bothered and the gasoline contaminants will burn off no need to change again.
Yes, I've operated a couple 322's before but never spent much time with one in the shop. I will have to say I am throughly impressed with this little engine.
Just the Yanmar 3TG66 (18 hp liquid cooled) in the 322 and the Onan B43G or P218G air cooled engines were the only difference between the 318 and 322. Naturally the frames are slightly different between the two as are the side panels, dash tower, and fender pan. Functionally they are the same. Power steering, dual hydraulics, and all the same attachments.
The reason why the oil is overfull is I believe these hold 4.9 quarts and if you put in a full 5 quarts it goes up that full it does not hurt anything though as the oil pan is still quite a ways away from any rotating members
Oil is very much a personal decision... I'm pretty much straight conventional after my last trip down synthetic lane... For something designed in the early 80's dino oil should be fine. If it was a never engine I might scratch my head a little more and ponder. Synthetic oils are nice oils though.
Two machines that will never leave without extreme circumstances... The '67 110H and the '88 318. I have the original invoices and all the paperwork on both.
@@haydenschneider3 I am no expert like mmrbeef. I am not sure of prognosis yet. I could teach some but need to learn more. I am with you we need a video on everything especially the good old sturdy USA made tractor's! There is more all the time.
Greg Olson that’s ok, you can learn while you make videos. Just make videos, I can help with your prognosis and then you would learn. I really want to see it and know what the problem is. Put a video up seeing it and that then i can help you. I have 9 garden tractors myself. I would love it if you did
@@haydenschneider3Part of my problem is it is repowered with a wheelhorse K181 but not positive. It has a starter no generator. Do you know a site where I can run the numbers to find out?
@@haydenschneider3 I am just finishing my second 317 rebuild this year. Put an oil filter kit/hydro shock on a 81 KT17 series 2 and bought a 80 repowered P218G with locked up levers and leaking sundstrand that I am almost done putting back together. Then on to the RF or 140H3 or 66 cub 123 or 64 cub 100. I am not rich but love bringing them back from the dead!
modern day plugs are pretty close to nominal for most application. of course there may be special application for example i have a chevy that runs a really freaking HOT coil gap to .100"
@@jimbennett1519 you are not wrong but still from the factory plugs are gapped for most applications. for example the NGK plugs Beef used here are made for small air cooled engines and would not be the same for other application say for a Honda car or a Harley Motorcycle. NGK is a top tier manufacture for many companies and as such has different specs for different items....as you said not being rude just sharing my experience.
l would not recommend automotive oil in tractors. It is engineered different. Cost is about the same. I would recommend JD oil for tractors , mowers etc. or equivalent oil. tractors tend to consume auto oil. On my 322 and 318 every time it is not running smooth i clean the carb first and guess what then they run great . That’s one way you get to much gas in the oil, just a thought.
You don't have to lift dipstick...there's a vent on the valve cover (like all reciprocating engines have, vents that is). By the way you should get in the habit of using the box end of the wrench to help avoid rounding of bolt heads...Not trying to pick a fight, just constructive criticism.
My OCD......I agree on using the box end whenever space allows. As to the open end, always place the angled head in the direction of rotation. 12:04 Does your wife know that you are using one of her cooking pots?
There is a vent in the valve cover... It just couldn't allow enough air in to deal with the volume of oil. I'm not sure why I used the open end of that wrench... Normally I use a 6pt box end.... At least I think in most of my other oil change videos I've used one.
Ha! Naaaa I just aggravate people at auctions and buy a box of pots and pans for a couple bucks... When they get holes of too dirty I toss them in the scrap pile.
I like to think I'm part of the cadre of loyal followers who routinely give you a thumbs-up on your great content. As usual.
Woaa! There is 2 of me?
@@gregolson5532
3 of me ! !
Changed the oil in my 322 yesterday for the first time since purchase and it had the exact same orange bolt in the oil pan. What are the chances, or maybe it was something deere used?
Nice, I’m working on a John Deere 60 lawn tractor. Just need to bolt the engine and put the drive belt on and it’s will work great!
Well another problem i seen right away “Fram oil filter” i use nothing but napa gold made by wix,, fram is nothing but cardboard filter paper ,, anyway as always buddy thank you for the video..
I use USA made supertech $2.99 Walmart way better than fram not quite as good as wix.
@@gregolson5532
Actually, Super Tech (Walmart) gets really high ratings over at Bob.Is.The.Oil.Guy. for short oil change intervals.
www.bobistheoilguy.com/
just found your channel. I own and work hard my 322 JD. I am studying the ignition lockout mechanisms. I have an intermittent no-crank. The engine starts & runs good, when the lockout switches function. Could you do a video on those mechanisms? (seat switch, hydraulic forward/reverse switch, clutch/brake, power takeoff-PTO, what else?)
322, best tractor made
I noticed you were able to start it without pushing the clutch brake in. Do you know where the switch is for the clutch brake. I have to have the clutch brake pushed all the way forward to turn the key to start. This morning I went to start it it ran, then started to stop but I dodn't get to the cold engine choke in time. So I went to start it again and would not turn over. The bypass switch for the operaters seat is functional and both fuses have power to both sides. So I want to verify that the clutch brake bypass switch is connected/functional but I can't find it. Never park your tractor in a messy garage facing forward, always back it in.
Some machines had switches and others did not.... depends on the year. I do not know if this one has a jumper or doesn’t have a switch to start with. I’ll have to look tomorrow and confirm where that switch is at. On the newer machines it is right my the brake shaft on the frame.
@@mmrbeef well I'm pretty sure now the problem is the brake switch. I was able to verify the all the other saftey switches on the circuit were working properly. Never did get access to the brake switch but I ran a farmer fix line directly to the starter solenoid from the battery with one hand while holding the seat down with the other and she fired right off.
I also had read somewhere that the brake switch is riveted to the frame. I can see 2 little rivets sticking through the frame near the brake linkage pivot point so I assume the brake switch is on the INSIDE of the durn frame.
Oh well now that I was able to back it out I can take the mower off and block it up a bit and have a look at the switch and it's connections.
Only other possible problem might be the relay itself.
I don't know about you but I live in northeast Kansas and we get over 100° F days in the summer during the peak of mowing season, so I run straight SAE 40 weight in all my air cooled KOHLERS & ONANS... But I also realize your 322 is water cooled...
My dad has one of these that he bought new in 1988. It's been garage kept. Last record I can find of repair is 2011 (he kept all the receipts). We got some Zero turns and just parked it. Any idea what we would need to do to get it running?
9 years is a good amount of time in storage. The first thing I would do it drain the gas tank, check the air filter (mice might have built a nest), and check the coolant. Then see if it runs. If it runs, then change all the fluids and filters. Not much you need to do beyond that if it runs. If it doesn't run then you would need to spend some time doing some step wise problem solving.
@@mmrbeef thank you, it ran. It is enjoying a new home as we gave it to some friends.
How do you replace the throttle cable on the 322?
have you ever worked on the kohlers on the 200 series? i have a video on my channel showing what is happening. what i have found is my coil exploded because my battery had 18 volts. idk how that happend it has been sitting all winter out of the tractor. i have not even charged it. anyways do you have any idea if that would cause it or what could cause it. it ran fine last year. just pulled it out for a show.
They just do that sometimes. I've had an Onan coil bust in two... In the middle of the summer.
thanks for the vid good job a usual...one easy way to test a coil, borrow another plug wire form another cylinder. if no difference in performance then coil bad... old hot rod trick (for those who cannot afford volt meters)....and looking at the radiator cap please replace that it looks like arse and probably performs like arse. as for oil, get it hot and bothered and the gasoline contaminants will burn off no need to change again.
Those 322s are super quiet and smooth. More quite the. The Yanmar diesels are
Yes, I've operated a couple 322's before but never spent much time with one in the shop. I will have to say I am throughly impressed with this little engine.
I just switched from a 322 to a 332 and a miss how quit it is but I still love the diesel
Briefly, what is the difference between the 322 and the 318? I know the engine is different, is there anything else?
Just the Yanmar 3TG66 (18 hp liquid cooled) in the 322 and the Onan B43G or P218G air cooled engines were the only difference between the 318 and 322. Naturally the frames are slightly different between the two as are the side panels, dash tower, and fender pan. Functionally they are the same. Power steering, dual hydraulics, and all the same attachments.
The reason why the oil is overfull is I believe these hold 4.9 quarts and if you put in a full 5 quarts it goes up that full it does not hurt anything though as the oil pan is still quite a ways away from any rotating members
It was overfill by at least .75 qts and it was very thin gas/oil combo.
North Dakota 322 I thought it was 2.9 quarts
As always I recommend synthetic oil in these machines it really helps with oil consumption issues and lubrication upon startup
Oil is very much a personal decision... I'm pretty much straight conventional after my last trip down synthetic lane... For something designed in the early 80's dino oil should be fine. If it was a never engine I might scratch my head a little more and ponder. Synthetic oils are nice oils though.
Have you ever thought about selling your 318 and keeping the 322 if you get it up and running
Two machines that will never leave without extreme circumstances... The '67 110H and the '88 318. I have the original invoices and all the paperwork on both.
I had no idea you had all of that
What do you think about the John Deere Kawasaki motors
Aside from being a little light in the torque dept they are very good engines. Lots of life out of them!
Thanks for the vid. I am working on a 65 110 with ignition problems.
You need to make videos on it for you tube
@@haydenschneider3 I am no expert like mmrbeef. I am not sure of prognosis yet. I could teach some but need to learn more. I am with you we need a video on everything especially the good old sturdy USA made tractor's! There is more all the time.
Greg Olson that’s ok, you can learn while you make videos. Just make videos, I can help with your prognosis and then you would learn. I really want to see it and know what the problem is. Put a video up seeing it and that then i can help you. I have 9 garden tractors myself. I would love it if you did
@@haydenschneider3Part of my problem is it is repowered with a wheelhorse K181 but not positive. It has a starter no generator. Do you know a site where I can run the numbers to find out?
@@haydenschneider3 I am just finishing my second 317 rebuild this year. Put an oil filter kit/hydro shock on a 81 KT17 series 2 and bought a 80 repowered P218G with locked up levers and leaking sundstrand that I am almost done putting back together. Then on to the RF or 140H3 or 66 cub 123 or 64 cub 100. I am not rich but love bringing them back from the dead!
Did I miss something or did you not gap those spark plugs?If you did forgive me as I am an old guy lol
They come pre gapped
modern day plugs are pretty close to nominal for most application. of course there may be special application for example i have a chevy that runs a really freaking HOT coil gap to .100"
North Dakota 322 for every application? Those plugs aren’t made specifically for only that engine not trying to be rude but I doubt that
@@jimbennett1519 you are not wrong but still from the factory plugs are gapped for most applications. for example the NGK plugs Beef used here are made for small air cooled engines and would not be the same for other application say for a Honda car or a Harley Motorcycle. NGK is a top tier manufacture for many companies and as such has different specs for different items....as you said not being rude just sharing my experience.
darthvader4hire well You can do whatever you want but I set the gap on my plugs and rarely find any that are set to the factory specifications
That is great, are you going to keep it?
I'll probably keep it until winter, play with the 47 blower a little then sell it.
Thanks for making this
l would not recommend automotive oil in tractors. It is engineered different. Cost is about the same. I would recommend JD oil for tractors , mowers etc. or equivalent oil. tractors tend to consume auto oil. On my 322 and 318 every time it is not running smooth i clean the carb first and guess what then they run great . That’s one way you get to much gas in the oil, just a thought.
You don't have to lift dipstick...there's a vent on the valve cover (like all reciprocating engines have, vents that is). By the way you should get in the habit of using the box end of the wrench to help avoid rounding of bolt heads...Not trying to pick a fight, just constructive criticism.
My OCD......I agree on using the box end whenever space allows. As to the open end, always place the angled head in the direction of rotation.
12:04 Does your wife know that you are using one of her cooking pots?
There is a vent in the valve cover... It just couldn't allow enough air in to deal with the volume of oil. I'm not sure why I used the open end of that wrench... Normally I use a 6pt box end.... At least I think in most of my other oil change videos I've used one.
Ha! Naaaa I just aggravate people at auctions and buy a box of pots and pans for a couple bucks... When they get holes of too dirty I toss them in the scrap pile.
Cool channel! Subbed
Coil, prob one near muffler
Coil gaurenteed