That was quite useful! Pro tip : when removing the main jet, i just used a Z shaped flat screwdriver. It was perfect! It allowed me to remove the jet without removing the covers. That and long nose pliers did the trick for me!
Greetings again from Ohio ... I'm glad I watched this video! After having my old 83 328 down for misc. electrical repair and deck maint, upon starting the engine to put the tractor to work, the engine had developed a surging issue. It wouldn't idle at all, and would only run at higher throttle settings, with choke partially on .... I after reading up and studying possible causes, I tried a hurry up quick fix with solvent spray and fuel cleaner/conditioner ... After getting it all back together, same issue. So, still no solution. It's acting like some dot of a vacuum leak, or possibly an issue with the governor operation. These things can leave us scratching our heads at times! Operating perfectly until down for two weeks (for non-related issues, only to have developed fuel delivery issues. I've ordered a new fuel pump, tho I'm sure the pump isn't what's causing this problem. I noticed that the pump appears to be older (possible original) while replacing the filter, so decided to go ahead with new, with winter closing in in me. Anyway, if by chance you see this and care to comment, suggestions are certainly welcome!! Stay safe and well, and again, thank you for your videos! You're obviously a 300 series enthusiast, as many if us are.
@@luschen-laschet9635 Sorry! I just did see this, and no I haven't pinned down the issue, as winter set in and I let it set until warmer weather. Getting ready to get into it in a few days. Not expecting it to solve the problem, just as this one didn't work for this gentleman. I'm sure its going to end up getting all new fuel hose (which I have), along with new fuel pump, which I also ordered. They're inexpensive, so at 37 years old, replacement should happen anyway. So before getting into it, I'm going with the strong possibility that the simple in-machine carb cleaning isn't going to resolve the surging issue. I believe a complete fuel system replace will ensue. It won't hurt a thing, as it had just over 2,000 hours when purchased. The motor does run and perform well, with the exception of this surge problem, which seemed to come on all at once. I keep thinking of restrictions at the fuel pick-up, old rubber lines, and of course the pump, which appears old as well. So, my endeavors in diagnosing and resolving still lie ahead. Lol. Thank you for contacting me, tho I missed it earlier.
@@luschen-laschet9635 Greetings again. So sorry I'm so long getting to you .... Honestly, I just finally saw your reply. This is probably not much help at this late date, but the surging issue ended up continuing to give me fits, so I ended up pulling the entire intake and separated it, re-sealing it, as I had learned from a number of sources that these are notorious for creating vacuum leaks. After doing this, I reinstalled only to still have the surge prblm. I priced rebuild kits vs nee aftermarkrt carbs, and ordered a complete new carb. Bingo! Talk about a frustrating process of elimination! But after going thru the entire fuel system from tank to carb, now it runs like an Onan should! Thank you for your replies, and again, my apologies for not answering sooner.
My 318 does the same surging. I pulled the engine out and super cleaned the inches of gunk all over the engine and flywheel. It won't start so I need to go in and clean the carb like you did and maybe do the fuel lines as well. Mine only has 807 hours on it so I assume its still got lots of life left in it.
Thnx again for your videos. I'm a 318 aholic I guess ... After the carb cleaning, the surge was still present ... Next in order was resealing the intake.... The surge was still there. Obviously frustrated, I ordered a new carb, and bingo! Problem solved. I'm assuming that with 2,000 hrs, the carb was worn out (if there is such a thing)! BTW, after all of the fuel issues, after starting it up 3-4 times, the starter locked up! So that tractor got put away until a year later! I do want to say, I saw a video you had posted at some point, showing "good 318s vs bad" ..... I obviously bought a bad one. It's a later 83 model, but still one of the first year made.. Thank you again for your videos. Much appreciated.
To be continued? Cut you off mid sentence! LOL! Between you a (JD specialist) and Mustie (a generalist) us JD fans are getting info from 2 different viewpoints! Love it!
My tractor keeps flooding. It appears to be a new carburetor on it. I took it apart. It was actually pretty clean, but it’s still flooding for some reason.
When screwing in the main jet, how far does it go? Should the screw be flush so it can't be seen from above or does it stick out a little and should be able to be seen from above? I'm not sure if it's seated correctly?
These fuel lines have enough cracks and breaks in them! Haha. The pick ups don't sound loose... But that's suspect until I empty the tank and shake it around.
Pulled reserve line to capped hose when I changed the hoses so I can run from a 1 gal container with carb and engine cleaner, I never use the reserve, but its great in the winter to not have the gas tank full and run from a container!
Man. My onan is running like a dog. Changed plugs, fuel pump, vacuum hose from the engine to fuel pump, cleaned carb, changed needle valve, still it will not run like it’s not getting fuel but the bowl is full. Help.
My next steps would be to replace the fuel lines (if you did not do that when you replace the pulse/vacuum hose), clean the pump (you should be able to carefully take it apart not tearing the gasket), and then clean the fuel tank (take it off, dump it out, replace the bungs and picks ups if needed. Sometimes the pick ups will fall off in the tank).
Hello again .... Having viewed your carb cleaning on the 318, and mine being an older model equipped with the B43G, I decided to go thru the entire fuel system, replacing lines, pickups and pump. To assure of eliminating the surging issue, I went through removing the intake manifold an completely resealed. Now it's time to re-install everything. I'm rounding up torque specs, and have looked everywhere for torque specs on the two bolts mounting the carb back onto the intake manifold. So far I haven't found this torque spec anywhere. I'm not comfortable with the uniform 5/16 boo torque specs listed, since this is a cast aluminum intake. I've been tempted to simply snug these to 'my own safety son's, in order to prevent the likelihood of stripping. I have tap & die sets, but really don't want to get into the extra work. I've watched many of your other videos, and trust your work. Any suggestions on this torque? Once I get this back together, I don't relish the thoughts of any leaks, air or otherwise! Lol .... Please advise. Thnx again for your videos. You do know your JDs and Onans.
I've been wrenching on Briggs & Stratton's since I was 8 and then Automotive & Truck engines. I am 66 now, and I have never put a pair of nitrile gloves on... (Check the fuel tank Bud...)
I have discussed my use of gloves in many videos. It has nothing to do with wrenching on stuff. In a vast majority of my videos I will be wearing some type of hand protection (nitrile gloves, work gloves, etc etc).
That was quite useful!
Pro tip : when removing the main jet, i just used a Z shaped flat screwdriver. It was perfect! It allowed me to remove the jet without removing the covers. That and long nose pliers did the trick for me!
Thanks for the video. My 318 was stalling as soon as I'd raise the throttle. This procedure fixed the problem.
Thx so much for making this video after I asked you! I’ve got 2 carbs to clean right now and don’t want to pay $200 for 2 carb cleans
Greetings again from Ohio ... I'm glad I watched this video! After having my old 83 328 down for misc. electrical repair and deck maint, upon starting the engine to put the tractor to work, the engine had developed a surging issue. It wouldn't idle at all, and would only run at higher throttle settings, with choke partially on .... I after reading up and studying possible causes, I tried a hurry up quick fix with solvent spray and fuel cleaner/conditioner ... After getting it all back together, same issue. So, still no solution. It's acting like some dot of a vacuum leak, or possibly an issue with the governor operation. These things can leave us scratching our heads at times! Operating perfectly until down for two weeks (for non-related issues, only to have developed fuel delivery issues.
I've ordered a new fuel pump, tho I'm sure the pump isn't what's causing this problem. I noticed that the pump appears to be older (possible original) while replacing the filter, so decided to go ahead with new, with winter closing in in me. Anyway, if by chance you see this and care to comment, suggestions are certainly welcome!! Stay safe and well, and again, thank you for your videos! You're obviously a 300 series enthusiast, as many if us are.
Hi Robert I have the exact same issues... did you ever find out what was wrong with your tractor????
@@luschen-laschet9635 Sorry! I just did see this, and no I haven't pinned down the issue, as winter set in and I let it set until warmer weather. Getting ready to get into it in a few days. Not expecting it to solve the problem, just as this one didn't work for this gentleman. I'm sure its going to end up getting all new fuel hose (which I have), along with new fuel pump, which I also ordered. They're inexpensive, so at 37 years old, replacement should happen anyway. So before getting into it, I'm going with the strong possibility that the simple in-machine carb cleaning isn't going to resolve the surging issue. I believe a complete fuel system replace will ensue. It won't hurt a thing, as it had just over 2,000 hours when purchased. The motor does run and perform well, with the exception of this surge problem, which seemed to come on all at once. I keep thinking of restrictions at the fuel pick-up, old rubber lines, and of course the pump, which appears old as well. So, my endeavors in diagnosing and resolving still lie ahead. Lol. Thank you for contacting me, tho I missed it earlier.
@@luschen-laschet9635 Greetings again. So sorry I'm so long getting to you .... Honestly, I just finally saw your reply. This is probably not much help at this late date, but the surging issue ended up continuing to give me fits, so I ended up pulling the entire intake and separated it, re-sealing it, as I had learned from a number of sources that these are notorious for creating vacuum leaks. After doing this, I reinstalled only to still have the surge prblm. I priced rebuild kits vs nee aftermarkrt carbs, and ordered a complete new carb. Bingo! Talk about a frustrating process of elimination! But after going thru the entire fuel system from tank to carb, now it runs like an Onan should! Thank you for your replies, and again, my apologies for not answering sooner.
Thanks mmrbeef.. Just rescued the same mower with the same Issues. Will be watching all your 318 videos.
My 318 does the same surging. I pulled the engine out and super cleaned the inches of gunk all over the engine and flywheel. It won't start so I need to go in and clean the carb like you did and maybe do the fuel lines as well. Mine only has 807 hours on it so I assume its still got lots of life left in it.
Thnx again for your videos. I'm a 318 aholic I guess ... After the carb cleaning, the surge was still present ... Next in order was resealing the intake.... The surge was still there. Obviously frustrated, I ordered a new carb, and bingo! Problem solved. I'm assuming that with 2,000 hrs, the carb was worn out (if there is such a thing)! BTW, after all of the fuel issues, after starting it up 3-4 times, the starter locked up! So that tractor got put away until a year later! I do want to say, I saw a video you had posted at some point, showing "good 318s vs bad" ..... I obviously bought a bad one. It's a later 83 model, but still one of the first year made.. Thank you again for your videos. Much appreciated.
To be continued? Cut you off mid sentence! LOL! Between you a (JD specialist) and Mustie (a generalist) us JD fans are getting info from 2 different viewpoints! Love it!
My tractor keeps flooding. It appears to be a new carburetor on it. I took it apart. It was actually pretty clean, but it’s still flooding for some reason.
Is the needle valve installed correctly in the carb?
Funny not doing the ground. Sounds like an easy simple mistake I would make. Thanks for the video
When screwing in the main jet, how far does it go? Should the screw be flush so it can't be seen from above or does it stick out a little and should be able to be seen from above? I'm not sure if it's seated correctly?
Thanks for the video. Why a "world of hurt" if you damage the gaskets? Only b/c you'll need new gaskets or b/c you risk other issues?
Wish you would have covered float adjustment
Are the fuel pickups in the tank good?
These fuel lines have enough cracks and breaks in them! Haha. The pick ups don't sound loose... But that's suspect until I empty the tank and shake it around.
@@mmrbeef Just pulled lines out of fuel tank on my 83, hose in the tank was disintegrating, starving for fuel!!!
Pulled reserve line to capped hose when I changed the hoses so I can run from a 1 gal container with carb and engine cleaner, I never use the reserve, but its great in the winter to not have the gas tank full and run from a container!
Man. My onan is running like a dog. Changed plugs, fuel pump, vacuum hose from the engine to fuel pump, cleaned carb, changed needle valve, still it will not run like it’s not getting fuel but the bowl is full. Help.
My next steps would be to replace the fuel lines (if you did not do that when you replace the pulse/vacuum hose), clean the pump (you should be able to carefully take it apart not tearing the gasket), and then clean the fuel tank (take it off, dump it out, replace the bungs and picks ups if needed. Sometimes the pick ups will fall off in the tank).
I’ve got a 316 and cleaned the carb and will only run on choke for years. Trying to fix it for neighbor but not sure of the problem
Hello again .... Having viewed your carb cleaning on the 318, and mine being an older model equipped with the B43G,
I decided to go thru the entire fuel system, replacing lines, pickups and pump. To assure of eliminating the surging issue, I went through removing the intake manifold an completely resealed. Now it's time to re-install everything. I'm rounding up torque specs, and have looked everywhere for torque specs on the two bolts mounting the carb back onto the intake manifold. So far I haven't found this torque spec anywhere.
I'm not comfortable with the uniform 5/16 boo torque specs listed, since this is a cast aluminum intake. I've been tempted to simply snug these to 'my own safety son's, in order to prevent the likelihood of stripping. I have tap & die sets, but really don't want to get into the extra work.
I've watched many of your other videos, and trust your work. Any suggestions on this torque? Once I get this back together, I don't relish the thoughts of any leaks, air or otherwise! Lol .... Please advise. Thnx again for your videos. You do know your JDs and Onans.
Where is the transmission oil fill hole on the 322?
It should be a tube that is under the hood right in front of the dash/hood latch. That tube loops back to the top of the differential.
Accelerator pump ? Just a guess,,
Brake cleaner is much more aggressive than carb cleaner. Make sure you don't get it on any gaskets, rubber seals, diaphragms, etc.
I've been wrenching on Briggs & Stratton's since I was 8 and then Automotive & Truck engines. I am 66 now, and I have never put a pair of nitrile gloves on... (Check the fuel tank Bud...)
I have discussed my use of gloves in many videos. It has nothing to do with wrenching on stuff. In a vast majority of my videos I will be wearing some type of hand protection (nitrile gloves, work gloves, etc etc).
You skipped the important steps