I really needed this highly detailed and well explained tutorial. I just bought a 1951? Model B, three days ago, and paid 2800 for it. It needs the choke on to run, and even then, it sounds kind of rough. This is my first Johnny Popper, and I'm going to get it right. Thanks again good buddy!😅
Well, that's much better. I'm glad you got it figured out. I think some people attribute any vibration to it being a two cylinder. In reality, when properly assembled, they are very smooth. I'm not sure if you have seen it at a show, but sometimes people will have their tractor running while sitting on glass coke bottles. Apparently, dealers used to do it as a marketing tool for people that thought they were rough and vibrated excessively. It's pretty cool to see in person.
I watched your video on flywheel installation to make sure the flywheel was installed correctly. I've seen videos of the tractors on coke bottles... but never in person. Maybe I'll try recreating it.
I am a South African and my late Dad used to have a similar John Deere tractor in the late 60's. Not sure which model, might be a B Model as well as I was about 6 or 7 years old then. Thanks for jogging fond memories and a tear or two!
I’m about to buy a 1941B from a guy that he says runs for about five minutes and then stalls out so hopefully I can get that figured out. This video should be pretty helpful. Thank you.
Every project has something that needs to be figured out. And they're all a bit different. Hopefully you're able to get your B running well. Best of luck 🤞🏻
FYI a mag is not like a distributor. You set them and forget them. Distributors you can adjust like that with the tractor running. Also mags have 2 different types of time. Run time which is set with whatever drive cup you have. The other is lag time or start time. Thats the time that trips your impluse. Lag time is also the time you adjust on a mag. Take mag off of tractor loosen the 4 screws on the back and rotate it left. On a wico x mag you want it about halfway between the last 2 marks to the left.
Your dad sure knows those old two cylinders, and it's easy to see he's passed that on to you. Do you have and use service manuals? Just curious. Keep em running!
He knows how to tune a carburetor better than anyone I know. I'm perfectly comfortable overhauling a carb, but he is much better getting them dialed in than I am. And yes we have copies of the service manuals. They're really helpful. Even though we know our way around them pretty well, we always find issues that are new to us. And that's when the SMs are super valuable.
Sounds good but the nuts on the clutch looked like the castle part was way down from the hole for the cotter pin so it looks like the nuts can back off.
That tractor would of had a distributor on it not a magneto. Mags should set perfectly level if timed correctly. I can tell by looking at your mag that your lag time is off. I'd also throw that wico c mag away and put a wico x mag on it if your gonna run a mag. Theres no difference in degrees with a wico c or x mag. Its the drive cups that is where you get degree difference. Theres 2 different types of drive cups long lug and short lug. Long lug is a 35° cup for unstyled tractors and the short lug cup is a 25° cup. You can run either cup on a c or x mag. You just gotta have a short lug for your B.
I have a question… My JD 40T is loud like this B I really want to quiet it down. Mine has a similar exhaust to your B… Is packing the pipe with exhaust silencer a “bad idea”? Thanks in advance
I've never messed with any packing in the muffler. We have a 1950 M with a new stock muffler and it isn't loud at all. And it has essentially the same motor you have. You could consider buying a new muffler if your other plan doesn't pan out.
The two method I've used in the past with good success are with a slide Hammer or with a bolt and washers. I show the two methods in these two videos linked below. Personally, I like the slide Hammer method better because it's quick and easy. But for stubborn emulsion tubes or if you didn't have a slide Hammer, the bolt method works really well. Good luck! Slide Hammer method: ruclips.net/video/VQjaml1T7rs/видео.html Bolt method: ruclips.net/video/ZeOXk6fPC30/видео.html
@@jonelsonster Thank you. That was helpful. I will be attempting this within the next few day, I need to go to the hardware store for the bolt, washer and tap. Might just pick up the slide hammer instead. Not sure yet.
@@jonelsonster got two plug screw that will not come out. Both screws are messed up. I tried some heat tonight, it didn’t help. These are the two screws that you have to go through the flange to get to. They are both for the idle passages. Would you know what size of a drill to use to drill the out ? Also what are the tap sizes to re-tap back to original size?
@@corsairsmitty9691 off hand, I do know know the size of those two brass plugs. If I remember, one is small and one is bigger. The small and big ones are the same size as the small and bigger plugs used elsewhere on the carb... I think. You might have to do some googling. Or you could also measure the other brass plugs that you were able to get out and get the thread and diameter info to help you find the right size replacement plugs.
Why didn't you just adjust your impulse timing? Pull the mag back off and look at the underside you can adjust the timing of the impulse. Rachel Gingell has a great video on how to do it.
That will only adjust the impulse, which is only active during starting. I want the engine timing to be correct wile the engine is running and working... not just at start.
Once we had the timing right and the carburetor properly cleaned and the float set and also a new set of plugs, it was just fine running the carburetor. We also rotated the magneto a little back (ccw) but the biggest thing was seeing the idle and load needles properly.
Thank you@@jonelsonster this is very helpful. Trying to get my H running that smooth. Wish my grandfather was still alive to help. Not too many people know about these tractors anymore.
most of those old tractors use the WICO X magneto that 1 was replaced w the later style 1 the other 1 😮😮 either it wasn't no good or just 4 parts the tractor wouldn't run smooth U should've cleaned the points 2 most the time the old sparkplugs are no good because of the gas that is made 2 day is no good either it's junk 😮😮 4 the magneto cap and the rotor button 5 U should've started the tractor up in the dark 2 see if the sparkplugs wires are leaking current they should be replaced solid copper sparkplug wires carry current better than the others and the spark should be bright blue and hot and I have seen the magneto w coils when they are bad the will make the tractor back fire the only way 2 fix that is 2 replace the coil w a new 1 I seen this myself 😊😊 OMG 11 29 2O23
I actually rebuild magnetos and distributor as a hobby. I am pretty familiar with them. I have several videos on my channel that you can watch showing troubleshooting, testing, and rebuilding of magnetos. This magneto was bench tested and known to be good and reliable. Plus, were only run ethanol free fuel in our tractors. 🧏🏼
Im not trying to be a prick. Put it back on the marks and adjust your magneto. I work on these tractors and everyday I have to guess and try to figure out what people have done to them when Im trying to get them running again.
You didn't need to do that with the governor gear. Someone put the magneto on the tractor wrong. You should fix it correctly and put the magneto together correctly.
Don't change or adjust the timing marks for them. They are there for a reason! The Wico C magneto should be in the level position for the engine to run correctly. This is exactly why this tractor sounds like shit. The Wico magneto has a built in advance for accommodating this.
I really needed this highly detailed and well explained tutorial. I just bought a 1951? Model B, three days ago, and paid 2800 for it. It needs the choke on to run, and even then, it sounds kind of rough. This is my first Johnny Popper, and I'm going to get it right. Thanks again good buddy!😅
If you'd need the choke on to run, your idle circuit in the carb is probably clogged.
Well, that's much better. I'm glad you got it figured out. I think some people attribute any vibration to it being a two cylinder. In reality, when properly assembled, they are very smooth. I'm not sure if you have seen it at a show, but sometimes people will have their tractor running while sitting on glass coke bottles. Apparently, dealers used to do it as a marketing tool for people that thought they were rough and vibrated excessively. It's pretty cool to see in person.
I watched your video on flywheel installation to make sure the flywheel was installed correctly. I've seen videos of the tractors on coke bottles... but never in person. Maybe I'll try recreating it.
Great to see an update on it! Makes me miss my 1949 B even more!😢
Yes, it's nice to have it running good
@@jonelsonster I missed the video when you got it. What is it running when you got it?
@@rudycarlson8245 here is a link to a playlist with all of the videos about this tractor.
ruclips.net/p/PLFyQBtxp-h2qTRnOH_jbAnGgr5Ne0dj39
@@jonelsonster thanks will check it out
Great video trouble shooting the mighty John Deere B. Happy you got it all figured out...and happy you shared the journey,
Thanks!
Good trouble shooting, it sure sounds much better. Good job.
Thanks. Yes, it's nice to have it running smoothly.
I am a South African and my late Dad used to have a similar John Deere tractor in the late 60's. Not sure which model, might be a B Model as well as I was about 6 or 7 years old then. Thanks for jogging fond memories and a tear or two!
Thanks for sharing. I think yours in the first comment I've ever had from South Africa... Maybe even Africa all together! Thanks 👍🏻
Glad to see you got it smoothed out! Sounds good!
Me too!
You just gotta love a late model B John Deere.
No doubt
I’m about to buy a 1941B from a guy that he says runs for about five minutes and then stalls out so hopefully I can get that figured out. This video should be pretty helpful. Thank you.
Every project has something that needs to be figured out. And they're all a bit different. Hopefully you're able to get your B running well. Best of luck 🤞🏻
Great video and info thank you.
Thanks for watching! Glad you found it helpful
Swap the spark plugs from side to side and see if the problem follows
Good tip!
FYI a mag is not like a distributor. You set them and forget them. Distributors you can adjust like that with the tractor running. Also mags have 2 different types of time. Run time which is set with whatever drive cup you have. The other is lag time or start time. Thats the time that trips your impluse. Lag time is also the time you adjust on a mag. Take mag off of tractor loosen the 4 screws on the back and rotate it left. On a wico x mag you want it about halfway between the last 2 marks to the left.
You should check out my Magneto and distributor overhaul videos.
Great - thank you!
👍🏻
There must be one guy somewhere close to you that rebuilt/did a bunch of work on those old JDs...and didn't align the flywheels.
No joke! And we are the unlucky ones downstream.
Bout time for a new clutch. Your down on your bolts quite a ways
All in good time.
Thanks
No problem
Your dad sure knows those old two cylinders, and it's easy to see he's passed that on to you. Do you have and use service manuals? Just curious. Keep em running!
He knows how to tune a carburetor better than anyone I know. I'm perfectly comfortable overhauling a carb, but he is much better getting them dialed in than I am. And yes we have copies of the service manuals. They're really helpful. Even though we know our way around them pretty well, we always find issues that are new to us. And that's when the SMs are super valuable.
Sounds good but the nuts on the clutch looked like the castle part was way down from the hole for the cotter pin so it looks like the nuts can back off.
There are multiple holes
That tractor would of had a distributor on it not a magneto. Mags should set perfectly level if timed correctly. I can tell by looking at your mag that your lag time is off. I'd also throw that wico c mag away and put a wico x mag on it if your gonna run a mag. Theres no difference in degrees with a wico c or x mag. Its the drive cups that is where you get degree difference. Theres 2 different types of drive cups long lug and short lug. Long lug is a 35° cup for unstyled tractors and the short lug cup is a 25° cup. You can run either cup on a c or x mag. You just gotta have a short lug for your B.
Magnetos were available on all letter tractors through 1952. You should watch my video on magneto and carburetor identification.
Awsome
Thanks!
I use to tighten each castle nut one notch at a time that way they are all even..
I don't know if I would have the patience for that 🤣
Parabéns Brasil 🇧🇷 você tem um número de alguma loja que eu pudesse comprar peças para meu Jd 820 ou email agradeceria muito ❤
I use eBay
Good job that is has a electric starter but one thing is for sure.
PLEASE DO INSTALL A ROPS BAR!!!!!! You'll thank me later.
👍🏼
thats what my 70 sounds like
Gotta love that two cylinder music!
I hope your 70 sounds a whole lot better than any B.
I had the same problem with a 40 A.Nothing moree than a waorn throttle shaft bushing anf felt seal.
👍🏻
She sounds a lot better
Yes, it runs really well now.
I have a question…
My JD 40T is loud like this B
I really want to quiet it down.
Mine has a similar exhaust to your B…
Is packing the pipe with exhaust silencer a “bad idea”?
Thanks in advance
I've never messed with any packing in the muffler. We have a 1950 M with a new stock muffler and it isn't loud at all. And it has essentially the same motor you have. You could consider buying a new muffler if your other plan doesn't pan out.
What is the best way to get the emulsion tube out of the carb, without damaging it?
The two method I've used in the past with good success are with a slide Hammer or with a bolt and washers. I show the two methods in these two videos linked below. Personally, I like the slide Hammer method better because it's quick and easy. But for stubborn emulsion tubes or if you didn't have a slide Hammer, the bolt method works really well. Good luck!
Slide Hammer method: ruclips.net/video/VQjaml1T7rs/видео.html
Bolt method: ruclips.net/video/ZeOXk6fPC30/видео.html
@@jonelsonster Thank you. That was helpful. I will be attempting this within the next few day, I need to go to the hardware store for the bolt, washer and tap. Might just pick up the slide hammer instead. Not sure yet.
@@corsairsmitty9691 check the diameter of the emulsion tube. Some are different diameters. Just tap it to whatever size it's closest to.
@@jonelsonster got two plug screw that will not come out. Both screws are messed up. I tried some heat tonight, it didn’t help. These are the two screws that you have to go through the flange to get to. They are both for the idle passages. Would you know what size of a drill to use to drill the out ? Also what are the tap sizes to re-tap back to original size?
@@corsairsmitty9691 off hand, I do know know the size of those two brass plugs. If I remember, one is small and one is bigger. The small and big ones are the same size as the small and bigger plugs used elsewhere on the carb... I think. You might have to do some googling. Or you could also measure the other brass plugs that you were able to get out and get the thread and diameter info to help you find the right size replacement plugs.
Why didn't you just adjust your impulse timing? Pull the mag back off and look at the underside you can adjust the timing of the impulse. Rachel Gingell has a great video on how to do it.
That will only adjust the impulse, which is only active during starting. I want the engine timing to be correct wile the engine is running and working... not just at start.
Ha, ha. Be careful where you grab while rotating that mag. I was waiting for you to get zapped.
Would not be the first time. Ha ha ha 😂
What was the secret in the final moments of your video here?
Once we had the timing right and the carburetor properly cleaned and the float set and also a new set of plugs, it was just fine running the carburetor. We also rotated the magneto a little back (ccw) but the biggest thing was seeing the idle and load needles properly.
Thank you@@jonelsonster this is very helpful. Trying to get my H running that smooth. Wish my grandfather was still alive to help. Not too many people know about these tractors anymore.
most of those old tractors use the WICO X magneto that 1 was replaced w the later style 1 the other 1 😮😮 either it wasn't no good or just 4 parts the tractor wouldn't run smooth U should've cleaned the points 2 most the time the old sparkplugs are no good because of the gas that is made 2 day is no good either it's junk 😮😮 4 the magneto cap and the rotor button 5 U should've started the tractor up in the dark 2 see if the sparkplugs wires are leaking current they should be replaced solid copper sparkplug wires carry current better than the others and the spark should be bright blue and hot and I have seen the magneto w coils when they are bad the will make the tractor back fire the only way 2 fix that is 2 replace the coil w a new 1 I seen this myself 😊😊 OMG 11 29 2O23
I actually rebuild magnetos and distributor as a hobby. I am pretty familiar with them. I have several videos on my channel that you can watch showing troubleshooting, testing, and rebuilding of magnetos. This magneto was bench tested and known to be good and reliable. Plus, were only run ethanol free fuel in our tractors. 🧏🏼
Im not trying to be a prick. Put it back on the marks and adjust your magneto. I work on these tractors and everyday I have to guess and try to figure out what people have done to them when Im trying to get them running again.
It's running strong now. We'll leave it the way it is.
You didn't need to do that with the governor gear. Someone put the magneto on the tractor wrong. You should fix it correctly and put the magneto together correctly.
You should watch the video I made right before this one...
ruclips.net/video/38HyHp8P67U/видео.html
Don't change or adjust the timing marks for them. They are there for a reason! The Wico C magneto should be in the level position for the engine to run correctly. This is exactly why this tractor sounds like shit. The Wico magneto has a built in advance for accommodating this.
Noted.
Please be sure to grease pully bearing while you're in there, it's VERY IMPORTANT..
Thanks for the tip!