I loved watching this video. My LA150 quit moving after half hour mowing last summer, I did take it down and changed the fluid but never took the cover off to check anything so now when weather breaks again I am going to take it apart and repair it. The mower itself runs fine after I rebuilt the whole deck, new carb, fuel pump, voltage reg. tires, plugs, battery. My dad taught me well about mechanics, mostly auto motors and transmissions as he rebuilt them for over 50 years.
Great exclamational video. Thought my 160 trans was tired but had a sheared wheel key. Talk about jumping for joy when I found that. This guy is amazing with techniques. Wish I had his skills.
Haven watched over an hour long video earlier explaining this process your video is a great refresher. Definitely not as detailed but I don’t have another hour unless I forget those little important details in which I will go back to the more detailed video. Thanks
good video. thx. I removed the trans on my Scotts (JD) 2048 mower earlier this year and drained and replaced the oil. I also cleaned the top magnet. Machine had ~300hrs on it at the time, and was 22 yrs old. No slipping before or whining, but I figured I should change the oil. I used Castrol as well IIRC. Our yard is mostly flat, and I'm 200lbs. Hopefully it keeps running well for another 22 yrs.
When my E140 K42 trans started slipping at 100hrs I replaced it with a K66 garden tractor trans. Havent had any trouble since for 377hrs. Drags trees, shovels gravel & dirt, Works great. I am presently fabing a outrigger ditch mower for it. If I had to do it all over again I would buy a 2nd hand X580. !
I have a L130 John Deere and looking to upgrade as well. The 46 is still working great after 100 hours. I have to find a plce to buy the K66 and the parts needed for the conversion.
I have a 2015 D160 with 170hrs. It struggles to get up hills, especially when hot. It's been getting worse over the last couple years. My back yard has a steep hill. After finding out how common this is and the cause, I removed the K46 and took the cover off. Everything looked ok - no big damage, probably just small wear. The magnets (four in mine) had a good amount of fine shavings. My filter is a screen, not paper. I cleaned everything up and resealed the case. The old oil looked very bad - thin and grey. I put fresh 5W40 synthetic in it, and it climbs hills so much better now. Hopefully I caught it before too much damage was done. I don't do any snow blowing/pushing or tow much of anything, just a lawn aerator once a year. I just wanted everyone to know that if you catch it early enough, you may not need to tear into the transaxle and rebuild. I think I'll get at least another couple years out of it.
My D160 failed at 110 hours. Did the same as you but refilled with 20x50 synthetic which works excellent if there is no winter use. All the seals can be replaced without tearing down the transaxle.
My 2006, J.D. 155c, w/48" deck still drives/sounds as it did new at 701 hrs. No leaks yet, very quiet even climbing hills till it looses traction. Believed the lie it couldn't be serviced but will pull it out soon. I'll change the filter, probably fill with LUCAS oil and hope for the best.
@@michaelhorath6851 Same transmission as this one. Just take the transmission out and removed the base cover. Clean your filter. Clean the old gasket material. Add gasket maker or Hondabond to both the base plate and Transmission. Watch this video on how to fill it & install.
Clean the magnets as best as you can with a rag or paper towel and then use your air to blow the filings away. They come clean and it works every time.
Excellent video! I may need to refer to this one day for my JD. I read/watched videos the trans fluid from the factory is garbage and causes a lot of wear and so the one thing I already did was drop the Trans and replace/upgrade the factory trans fluid with Full Synthetic 5W-50 oil and has been working great for 5 years. I'm hoping that upgrade will keep me from having to tear it apart and replace parts - we'll see. Since you have the Trans out, the one other thing I would do is replace the drive belt. You will need to drop the deck to replace plus you can also check the one or two other drive belt pulleys to see if the bearings are good/bad.
I have a spare Tuff Torq K46 from a Husqvarna, but have you ever tried to use one in a John Deere? I understand flipping the triangle pressure plate to reverse the movement direction, but I am not sure what you mean by saying "swap out your "axles" and "shift and brake levers". Not sure why the axle would need to swapped? (8:45) The connections on the trans look the same on most various K46 models. I would think using the different models from spares for common John Deere tractors etc could make a really good video if you ever get a chance to do one. Thanks for these videos they are really helpful.
I am trying to be helpful- and not sound like a jerk- but you really want to torque those bolts in the aluminum tranny case to specs. I stripped a pump bolt once and had to repair it. I also only use synthetic 5w-30 motor oil. The 5w-50 gets too thick and you can lose speed once it heats up. I lost 1.5mph. Went back to 5w-30. I have rebuilt 3 k46A transmissions on different LTR-180 Deeres. I can hear the idler pulleys needing grease or replacement. Again just trying to help.
Changing the pump/motor didn't work either. Obviously another problem which I think is the 'center section'. I also sanded that as you did but still that didn't work so I'll buy a new center section. Also could be the relief system which will be replaced with the center section. I'm getting good at taking this POS apart andre-assembling. Hopefully it will work after the hydraulic stuff is fully replaced. I will change the oil more frequently from now on (if I get it fixed)
I have a LT180 too, where can I get the gear set if I don’t have spares? Also, what actually caused it to slip, Gears or the surfaces you sanded smooth?
@@Shark-qd1pz I find that the oil filter in the transmission “LT” models plug up. (I bought a used transmission from local ads for $50 and I used the gears and filter from that trans. It came from LA series). I’d pop off the bottom case and replace the filter. Put it back together and add 5w50 oil or 20w50 hydrostatic Amsoil. Part number for the filter is MIU805396
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic maybe once you got the pump fully working it needed more fluid? I don’t know why the manufacturer made it so hard to check the fluid or add the fluid. It doesn’t make any sense.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic Husqvarna YHT 18542 42” riding mower. I can only mow about 15-20 minutes before the hydrostatic differential starts whining and barely pulls itself. Let it cool down repeat. 🤔
You need to change your fluid. They’re a few videos on RUclips on this. It’s pretty close the same as a John Deere. m.ruclips.net/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/видео.html&pp=ygUiam9obiBkZWVyZSB0cmFuc21pc3Npb24gb2lsIGNoYW5nZQ%3D%3D
Is slipping the same as jerking? I have an L120 with a K46. It jerks on load or uphill. Same when turning left or right. I'm planning on opening it up. How did you know how to put it back together. Nice video but it would have been helpful if you explained why you were doing what you were doing. No offense.
Can you remove the pan from under the tractor without removing the transmission or will the gears be falling out or does the unit need to be removed and flipped over to remove.
I did this sanding work and it made a small difference buy not 100% better. I have now ordered 2 new pumps and will install and hopefully I'll be good as new after.
I guess them transmissions purg them selfs because no one ever shows pulling the latch out on back and moving shifter back and forth to perg the air out I'm still going to do it
Thank you. I have a D105 and need to replace the Drive Shaft. Is that as easy to take apart and can the drive shaft be replaced> The screw holding the spring broke inside of it, and I have not been able to get it out. So, I thought replacing would be the best. Thank you for your suggestions
Can’t be done. They don’t sell any parts for these transmissions. I snapped off the bolt before and was able to drill it out with a 2mm drill bit and used an easy-out to remove it. Check out these videos: ruclips.net/video/AiBf8dBzwVY/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/tpnWiIB-RC4/видео.html
Great video. I have a question you might be able to help with. I have a 1990 Ariens tractor that is have a issue. The mower wont move forward and make a whining sound...it move backward strong and fast...just not forward. The belts seem to be tight, the fluid seem to be full, the linkage seems to be moving. The mower is in super good condition and hope to save it. Any help would be great...Thanks
@@vanover69 That's weird. Could be the gears binding up. I would start looking for a donor tractor (with a good trans) and swap out the transmission. That would be the cheapest way to go about it. It might take a while but I'm sure you could find one for $150-200.
Resurfacing the pump housing faces by hand is poor practice. The housing should be set face-down on the sand paper supported by a flat surface (metal or a piece of glass). That will enable you to get a true (flat and level) finished surface.
My la120 doesn’t seem to want to stay in gear. If I slam the bypass lever back and forth it will go into gear for a minute. I checked that it was moving the lever on top the trans. Is this common?
I had put rebuild transmission on my D170, when I start the tractor it is in reverse. I can hear the transmission pump on, it does go forward and reverse but is in reverse when in neutral and starts smelling. Can't get hold of the guy I got it from. Will you know what can be the issue
Maybe a bit. But unless we familiar with mechanics and the parts and the functions. Them just saying what they doing and why kinda don't make sense. Idk seems like he did a pretty good job showing and telling what he's doing. Showing us how to check various parts and check for wear. Shows us what parts are worn and causing issue.
Just seems it don't help much and the right will spin, , I changed oil, didn't help, it didn't look bad at all. My old mower would go up my hill very easy, it has new drive belt, new oil, good keys on axle. Thanks for your video its great. ,
Nice job bringing that back to life! Why do you use the Castrol 5W50 and not a J20C spec like the Shell Spirax S4 TXM at Canadian Tire? Are you down in the Valley or on the South shore?
Dear Sir I have a JD lt160 it has gotten slower over the years itsabout 18 years old. I never checked the trans as I was told it was in service able but it is slow going up hills an has lost speed over the years what would suggest to try doing the trans oil change at least it runs ok on flat but struggles going up hill I did change belts an drive pullies and my drive belt is always tight which Leeds me to the trans what do you think sir Ray Stein
@@raystein4457 Screen Mesh filters can be cleaned. These are in the LA and D models. Yours might not be a screen-type filter. This filter on this LT180 model couldn't be cleaned. John Deere Part number is MIU805396
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic thank you for your help I will get a filter an oil an when I do IL change both as I said I thought you didn't have to service these n like I said it slips goin up hill an has slowed down over the years Ray Stein
I have a LX277 AWS Hydrostatic. When I turn the steering wheel right or left the wheels do not straighten back up. Do you have an idea why that is? There is this rod under the seat that seems to move the back wheels but it won't straighten them...it feels kind of loose when I move it left and right.
I never worked on a LX277. Make sure your spindles aren’t seizing up. Try to grease them & free them up. Then lube up the steering plate under the tractor. Hope this helps.
C'est un bon moteur. Changer l'huile et le filtre toutes les 50 heures. Attention au nid de souris sous le capot moteur. Utilisez uniquement de l’essence de test élevé.
When you removed the K46, the v-belt pulley was on top of the plastic fan. When you installed it, you put the fan above the pulley. ??? Wondering if you caught it, but didn't mention it? Great video. BTW, The Deere parts website shows the pulley above the fan, like when you removed the tranny.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic well that’s good news mine is slipping when it gets warm and I can’t find a rebuild kit for it anywhere everyone is out of stock lol So if I can just do this it would be great
@@Vuhjayjay68 Check the filter if it's plugged. If you decide to tear it apart, I'd use 400-grit wet sandpaper and then 1000. The pump assembly is a bit tricky to put back together.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic I plan on getting into it tomorrow I think I’m smart enough to get it done lol I’m just going to start with inspection and complete cleaning of everything just to see if that works
Good video, but not enough detail. I couldn't understand some of the things you said (mumbling). Where did you get parts? I definitely appreciate the video. With better production you would be phenomenal. BTW, far better than I could do. Thank you!
Bonjour, je vois que vous faites des vidéos très détaillées et très instructives. j'ai une fuite d'huile sur l'axe qui relie la roue a la boîte hydrostatique. Avez vous une vidéo pour expliquer comment procéder à la réparation. merci
So what was the post mortum? What actually causes the no pull? The pump is all i can guess, combined with the dirty oil. And where do you source parts such as gears?
@@rickcain5717 dirty filter, if surfaces not polish smooth like he's doing or too much wear/play with piston pieces,....oil will get by and not help push the pistons there are 4 surfacesthat need to be polish smooth.
@gavintube2366 thow a yellow Jonh Deer name plate and the price quadruples.. plus the fact that many parts from similar modles won't work on a deer. They may look the same but they arent.
That's just unknowledgeable jibber. All these budget riding mowers share the same fabricators of the main working parts. TuffTorq trans are used on every model regardless of color. Biggs, Kohler, etc engines are used extensively on the gas budget jobbies, and you don't need to be buying JD brand parts when there easily purchased through there Briggs or sites like Amazon etc. When servicing any of the mowers you certainly don't need to be buying through JD when all the bearing are replaceable with the best bearing brands available in the world like SK, NSK etc. Even the tightener bearings are repairable if you have a minimal shop intelligence and a few tools. If "you" can't fix it, you need to fix that first before demonstrating your inabilities publicly.
Just because the mower is green and says JOHN DEERE does not mean it was manufactured by JOHN DEERE company. Most are made by Craftsman or MTD. For the prices the riders cost they do not last long in workmanship. I have had several different brands of mowers and mostly all are not very reliable for very many hours.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. You are the first one that chose how to fix the transmission
I loved watching this video. My LA150 quit moving after half hour mowing last summer, I did take it down and changed the fluid but never took the cover off to check anything so now when weather breaks again I am going to take it apart and repair it. The mower itself runs fine after I rebuilt the whole deck, new carb, fuel pump, voltage reg. tires, plugs, battery. My dad taught me well about mechanics, mostly auto motors and transmissions as he rebuilt them for over 50 years.
Awesome. 600 grit “wet” sandpaper works better.
i was given a mint condition LA130 with a 21hp v and a slipping trans. hopefully this video helps. you sir are an artist.
Great exclamational video. Thought my 160 trans was tired but had a sheared wheel key. Talk about jumping for joy when I found that. This guy is amazing with techniques. Wish I had his skills.
👍
If you repaired yours, you too have the skill. Knowledge is the missing component and it's never too late to learn a skill
Great job, thank you for sharing and taking the time to show what you are doing to repair the problem.
A fantastic job. More like 4-5 Days! You deserve a wider bench and fixture for holding the Trans.
You are right. Not enough room. Lol..
Tuff Torq makes a trans stand for this type of repair.
@@billsilvers6066 Thanks..
Haven watched over an hour long video earlier explaining this process your video is a great refresher. Definitely not as detailed but I don’t have another hour unless I forget those little important details in which I will go back to the more detailed video. Thanks
good video. thx. I removed the trans on my Scotts (JD) 2048 mower earlier this year and drained and replaced the oil. I also cleaned the top magnet. Machine had ~300hrs on it at the time, and was 22 yrs old. No slipping before or whining, but I figured I should change the oil. I used Castrol as well IIRC. Our yard is mostly flat, and I'm 200lbs. Hopefully it keeps running well for another 22 yrs.
👍
The cooling fan blade is also upside down (- the 'flatter' edge of the blade goes to the top, with the 'more-raked' edge to the bottom).
When my E140 K42 trans started slipping at 100hrs I replaced it with a K66
garden tractor trans. Havent had any trouble since for 377hrs. Drags trees,
shovels gravel & dirt, Works great. I am presently fabing a outrigger ditch
mower for it. If I had to do it all over again I would buy a 2nd hand X580.
!
I have a L130 John Deere and looking to upgrade as well. The 46 is still working great after 100 hours. I have to find a plce to buy the K66 and the parts needed for the conversion.
I did this to my toro K61 trans and it worked! Runs like it used to now. Thanks for this video.
Awesome to hear.
I have a 2015 D160 with 170hrs. It struggles to get up hills, especially when hot. It's been getting worse over the last couple years. My back yard has a steep hill. After finding out how common this is and the cause, I removed the K46 and took the cover off. Everything looked ok - no big damage, probably just small wear. The magnets (four in mine) had a good amount of fine shavings. My filter is a screen, not paper. I cleaned everything up and resealed the case. The old oil looked very bad - thin and grey. I put fresh 5W40 synthetic in it, and it climbs hills so much better now. Hopefully I caught it before too much damage was done. I don't do any snow blowing/pushing or tow much of anything, just a lawn aerator once a year. I just wanted everyone to know that if you catch it early enough, you may not need to tear into the transaxle and rebuild. I think I'll get at least another couple years out of it.
Thank you for the comment. Good info.....
My D160 failed at 110 hours. Did the same as you but refilled with 20x50 synthetic which works excellent if there is no winter use. All the seals can be replaced without tearing down the transaxle.
My 2006, J.D. 155c, w/48" deck still drives/sounds as it did new at 701 hrs. No leaks yet, very quiet even climbing hills till it looses traction. Believed the lie it couldn't be serviced but will pull it out soon. I'll change the filter, probably fill with LUCAS oil and hope for the best.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic HEY SIR,how can i change the transmission oil on a John Deere LT160 ?? thanks
@@michaelhorath6851 Same transmission as this one. Just take the transmission out and removed the base cover. Clean your filter. Clean the old gasket material. Add gasket maker or Hondabond to both the base plate and Transmission. Watch this video on how to fill it & install.
Clean the magnets as best as you can with a rag or paper towel and then use your air to blow the filings away. They come clean and it works every time.
Excellent video! I may need to refer to this one day for my JD. I read/watched videos the trans fluid from the factory is garbage and causes a lot of wear and so the one thing I already did was drop the Trans and replace/upgrade the factory trans fluid with Full Synthetic 5W-50 oil and has been working great for 5 years. I'm hoping that upgrade will keep me from having to tear it apart and replace parts - we'll see. Since you have the Trans out, the one other thing I would do is replace the drive belt. You will need to drop the deck to replace plus you can also check the one or two other drive belt pulleys to see if the bearings are good/bad.
👍
Umm. Like, wow! Great video and I don't think I'll ever be able to pull this off if needed. You sir rock!
Thx..
I have a spare Tuff Torq K46 from a Husqvarna, but have you ever tried to use one in a John Deere? I understand flipping the triangle pressure plate to reverse the movement direction, but I am not sure what you mean by saying "swap out your "axles" and "shift and brake levers". Not sure why the axle would need to swapped? (8:45) The connections on the trans look the same on most various K46 models. I would think using the different models from spares for common John Deere tractors etc could make a really good video if you ever get a chance to do one. Thanks for these videos they are really helpful.
The triangle pressure plate might be the same but you have to check the axle length. If they’re different your wheels won’t fit.
Great video. By the way compressed air works great for removing metal from magnets.
👍
Use your blow nozzle to clean shaving off magnet. 45 years doing automotive transmissions. Good job.
Awesome . I will try that.
Wish you would explain more what size wrench.
Pretty cool. Thank you. I think I better change the oil in mine and inspect it.
I have John Deere x 140 gardentractor vm 2010. Have you done ever video how to change hydraulick oil in that tractor ??🤔
Checkout this video: m.ruclips.net/video/2_3tla8fLT8/видео.html
I am trying to be helpful- and not sound like a jerk- but you really want to torque those bolts in the aluminum tranny case to specs. I stripped a pump bolt once and had to repair it. I also only use synthetic 5w-30 motor oil. The 5w-50 gets too thick and you can lose speed once it heats up. I lost 1.5mph. Went back to 5w-30. I have rebuilt 3 k46A transmissions on different LTR-180 Deeres. I can hear the idler pulleys needing grease or replacement. Again just trying to help.
Good to know. Thx.
Changing the pump/motor didn't work either. Obviously another problem which I think is the 'center section'. I also sanded that as you did but still that didn't work so I'll buy a new center section. Also could be the relief system which will be replaced with the center section. I'm getting good at taking this POS apart andre-assembling. Hopefully it will work after the hydraulic stuff is fully replaced. I will change the oil more frequently from now on (if I get it fixed)
Wow. Let me know if you get it going.
I have a LT180 too, where can I get the gear set if I don’t have spares? Also, what actually caused it to slip, Gears or the surfaces you sanded smooth?
Slips when it gets hot. The mower was given to me today. It’s looks fantastic and engine runs perfectly.
@@Shark-qd1pz I find that the oil filter in the transmission “LT” models plug up.
(I bought a used transmission from local ads for $50 and I used the gears and filter from that trans. It came from LA series).
I’d pop off the bottom case and replace the filter. Put it back together and add 5w50 oil or 20w50 hydrostatic Amsoil. Part number for the filter is MIU805396
The pump is howling more than expected. Any idea if it’s a foaming issue or 🤷?
Usually a Low fluid level will cause a high pitch whining noise.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic maybe once you got the pump fully working it needed more fluid? I don’t know why the manufacturer made it so hard to check the fluid or add the fluid. It doesn’t make any sense.
@@HeadFlowInc What model tractor do you have?
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic Husqvarna YHT 18542 42” riding mower. I can only mow about 15-20 minutes before the hydrostatic differential starts whining and barely pulls itself. Let it cool down repeat. 🤔
You need to change your fluid. They’re a few videos on RUclips on this. It’s pretty close the same as a John Deere.
m.ruclips.net/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/видео.html&pp=ygUiam9obiBkZWVyZSB0cmFuc21pc3Npb24gb2lsIGNoYW5nZQ%3D%3D
Is slipping the same as jerking? I have an L120 with a K46. It jerks on load or uphill. Same when turning left or right. I'm planning on opening it up. How did you know how to put it back together. Nice video but it would have been helpful if you explained why you were doing what you were doing. No offense.
Check your drive belt first. (Might be bad).
I have another video on the transmission .Check it out:
ruclips.net/video/gajrBiacPi8/видео.html
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic I did check and replaced the drive belt. Also the tensioner pulley.
Can you remove the pan from under the tractor without removing the transmission or will the gears be falling out or does the unit need to be removed and flipped over to remove.
I did this sanding work and it made a small difference buy not 100% better. I have now ordered 2 new pumps and will install and hopefully I'll be good as new after.
I’m glad i Looked at this also, because the first dudes video Said too overfill it with oil.
I like what I’m seeing. I could easily make this a live axle and change the gearing on the other side of the pump for some more speed!
👍
I guess them transmissions purg them selfs because no one ever shows pulling the latch out on back and moving shifter back and forth to perg the air out I'm still going to do it
Thank you. I have a D105 and need to replace the Drive Shaft. Is that as easy to take apart and can the drive shaft be replaced> The screw holding the spring broke inside of it, and I have not been able to get it out. So, I thought replacing would be the best. Thank you for your suggestions
Can’t be done. They don’t sell any parts for these transmissions.
I snapped off the bolt before and was able to drill it out with a 2mm drill bit and used an easy-out to remove it.
Check out these videos: ruclips.net/video/AiBf8dBzwVY/видео.html and
ruclips.net/video/tpnWiIB-RC4/видео.html
Checkout theses videos
m.ruclips.net/video/tpnWiIB-RC4/видео.html
m.ruclips.net/video/AiBf8dBzwVY/видео.html
Great video. I have a question you might be able to help with. I have a 1990 Ariens tractor that is have a issue. The mower wont move forward and make a whining sound...it move backward strong and fast...just not forward. The belts seem to be tight, the fluid seem to be full, the linkage seems to be moving. The mower is in super good condition and hope to save it. Any help would be great...Thanks
Does the tractor move forward at 1/4 speed? I had one before that would only go forward at 1/4 speed. I found the filter in the transmission plugged.
If I’m not on it the mower will move forward but I’m on it no moving fwd…it will zoom backwards with me on it…
@@vanover69 That's weird. Could be the gears binding up. I would start looking for a donor tractor (with a good trans) and swap out the transmission. That would be the cheapest way to go about it. It might take a while but I'm sure you could find one for $150-200.
This is a old HT-18 Ariens.the mower is in great shape, parts are not easy to find
Resurfacing the pump housing faces by hand is poor practice. The housing should be set face-down on the sand paper supported by a flat surface (metal or a piece of glass). That will enable you to get a true (flat and level) finished surface.
Good video? But my cuestión is, it work whithout the little pin?
The neutral pin? Yes, it will work without it.
My la120 doesn’t seem to want to stay in gear. If I slam the bypass lever back and forth it will go into gear for a minute. I checked that it was moving the lever on top the trans. Is this common?
Is the transmission slipping? How many hours on it? Might be it’s worn out like the one in this video.
Hi
I have a John Deere x155r tractor mower. The right hand rear axle has broken off. How difficult is it to replace a new axle in the tranaxle?
Graham
Pretty simple. Check the video at 4:35. Check out this video on how to remove the transmission.
m.ruclips.net/video/on7aHn2v2Rs/видео.html
I'm not clear on why the refill is with motor oil instead of hydro fluid?
Checkout their website.
Will a John Deere X300 transmission work on a john deere 102 riding mower?
Never heard of a 102….
😏 but thank you for showing me how to resurface the pump & Motor have a wonderful week ✌️out😎
Maybe i missed it, but i wouthave liked to know what the symptoms were.
Tractor wouldn’t move uphill.
I had put rebuild transmission on my D170, when I start the tractor it is in reverse. I can hear the transmission pump on, it does go forward and reverse but is in reverse when in neutral and starts smelling. Can't get hold of the guy I got it from. Will you know what can be the issue
Unhook the forward/reverse rod from the transmission. Startup the tractor, does it still go in reverse? If so, the transmission is not 100%.
I just replaced the Tuff Tork unit on my 550-hour John Deere LA-145. Is there any use for the old unit?
Well not really. I keep my old trans….
It would help if he explained what he was doing as he did it.
Just terrible. lol. I’m with ya. It’s like a seizure for 18 minutes.
Maybe a bit. But unless we familiar with mechanics and the parts and the functions. Them just saying what they doing and why kinda don't make sense.
Idk seems like he did a pretty good job showing and telling what he's doing. Showing us how to check various parts and check for wear. Shows us what parts are worn and causing issue.
What would make one wheel spin while pulling up the hill and the other one dont help pull much or any?
One wheel drive!!! The wheel that has the lease resistance will spin.
Just seems it don't help much and the right will spin, , I changed oil, didn't help, it didn't look bad at all. My old mower would go up my hill very easy, it has new drive belt, new oil, good keys on axle.
Thanks for your video its great. ,
Too bad. I sometimes buy a used mower for $100 and used it as a donor.
Nice job bringing that back to life! Why do you use the Castrol 5W50 and not a J20C spec like the Shell Spirax S4 TXM at Canadian Tire? Are you down in the Valley or on the South shore?
Any oil is good. I sometimes use 10w30, 10w-40. I live in the near Berwick NS.
I have a 100 series 115 John Deere I'm looking for a new deck what other series would fit
All 42” decks are the same from LA and D 100 series models.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic ok thanks
Dear Sir I have a JD lt160 it has gotten slower over the years itsabout 18 years old. I never checked the trans as I was told it was in service able but it is slow going up hills an has lost speed over the years what would suggest to try doing the trans oil change at least it runs ok on flat but struggles going up hill I did change belts an drive pullies and my drive belt is always tight which Leeds me to the trans what do you think sir Ray Stein
If the oil is dark, probably the filter is dirty. Might just need a new filter.
Dear week end can I clean that filter if not where can I get one do you have a part number possibly RayStein
@@raystein4457 Screen Mesh filters can be cleaned. These are in the LA and D models. Yours might not be a screen-type filter.
This filter on this LT180 model couldn't be cleaned.
John Deere Part number is MIU805396
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic thank you for your help I will get a filter an oil an when I do IL change both as I said I thought you didn't have to service these n like I said it slips goin up hill an has slowed down over the years Ray Stein
Thanks again for your help I really like this tractor an have taken good care of it hopefully this repairs will have good effects on it. RayStein
Can this diff be welded where the tires spin the same way
It’s possible. But I wouldn’t do it.
I have a LX277 AWS Hydrostatic. When I turn the steering wheel right or left the wheels do not straighten back up. Do you have an idea why that is? There is this rod under the seat that seems to move the back wheels but it won't straighten them...it feels kind of loose when I move it left and right.
I never worked on a LX277. Make sure your spindles aren’t seizing up. Try to grease them & free them up. Then lube up the steering plate under the tractor. Hope this helps.
So, is it normal the noise when you push to go forward (or backward)? Because I have the same one and i thought that was a bad transmission
The noise you hear is the hydraulic pump. Some trans are more noisy than others. Just keep on drive it.
bonjours ! j'aurais une question pour vous ... le moteur briggs and stratton de 22 force Platinum et t'il un bon moteur ?
C'est un bon moteur. Changer l'huile et le filtre toutes les 50 heures. Attention au nid de souris sous le capot moteur. Utilisez uniquement de l’essence de test élevé.
When you removed the K46, the v-belt pulley was on top of the plastic fan. When you installed it, you put the fan above the pulley. ??? Wondering if you caught it, but didn't mention it? Great video. BTW, The Deere parts website shows the pulley above the fan, like when you removed the tranny.
Yup I caught it..
Will this work on the k62ac they put in the simplicity broadmoor
Yes. 70% of the time the filter just dirty. You could just change the filter.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic well that’s good news mine is slipping when it gets warm and I can’t find a rebuild kit for it anywhere everyone is out of stock lol
So if I can just do this it would be great
@@Vuhjayjay68 Check the filter if it's plugged. If you decide to tear it apart, I'd use 400-grit wet sandpaper and then 1000. The pump assembly is a bit tricky to put back together.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic I plan on getting into it tomorrow I think I’m smart enough to get it done lol I’m just going to start with inspection and complete cleaning of everything just to see if that works
Good video, but not enough detail. I couldn't understand some of the things you said (mumbling). Where did you get parts? I definitely appreciate the video. With better production you would be phenomenal. BTW, far better than I could do. Thank you!
👍. I had a spare transmission for parts.
Yo tengo un tractor john deree lt 155 y no me tracciona?
Check the drive belt first.
Bonjour, je vois que vous faites des vidéos très détaillées et très instructives.
j'ai une fuite d'huile sur l'axe qui relie la roue a la boîte hydrostatique. Avez vous une vidéo pour expliquer comment procéder à la réparation.
merci
Sur le modèle John Deere x110
Votre joint d'essieu fuit probablement. Je n'ai pas de vidéo à ce sujet. Essayez de faire une recherche sur Google. Merci
Awesome detail 👌
What was wrong ?
The Filter was plugged. I freshened up the pump surface.
So I put the wrong oil in my transaxle how do I fix that
What type did you put in?
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic 5w-20
@@22-Bronc 5w-20 will work fine but 10w-30, 5w-40 or 5w-50 is better when the outside temperature raises. Is the neutral rod all the way in?
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic I’m not sure. How do I check?
@@22-Bronc The Neutral rod is in the back. Make sure the rod is pushed in. I check the function of it at 10:40 in the video.
Very good video.
Thank you very much.
TRY RIGHT STUFF GASKET MAKER VERY GOOD BEST I HAVE TRIED
Buen trabajo se podra traducir en español?
Don’t know.
Perfect!
You put the big brake pad in wrong that little tab goes in the back not towards the smaller brake pad
Can’t beat the older VS system and the cost of it
Hydro junk is a money pit 😢😢😢
👍
tough torx r not made for hills at all
That’s of no help as he didn’t tell us what he was doing.
only thing that sucks on lawnmower transmissions is 99 percent of them are to slow
Input need better information about what you are doing a little more than what you did in this video.
Is that tranny a two speed?
Hydrostatic. Works off a hydraulic pump and motor.
So what was the post mortum? What actually causes the no pull? The pump is all i can guess, combined with the dirty oil. And where do you source parts such as gears?
@@rickcain5717 dirty filter, if surfaces not polish smooth like he's doing or too much wear/play with piston pieces,....oil will get by and not help push the pistons there are 4 surfacesthat need to be polish smooth.
You need
a
bigger
hammer .
Hahaha
Did your pump block slide down snug on the main shaft splines? I noticed mine seems loose with play on there so im wondering if thats my problem.
There is some play.
rule #1: don't buy one.. do NOT buy a John Deer anything. save yourself a lot of trouble.
That same trans is on a LOT of other brands. Just because it's not green doesn't mean it's gonna be different if it has the same stuff underneath.
@gavintube2366 thow a yellow Jonh Deer name plate and the price quadruples.. plus the fact that many parts from similar modles won't work on a deer. They may look the same but they arent.
Lol
That's just unknowledgeable jibber. All these budget riding mowers share the same fabricators of the main working parts. TuffTorq trans are used on every model regardless of color. Biggs, Kohler, etc engines are used extensively on the gas budget jobbies, and you don't need to be buying JD brand parts when there easily purchased through there Briggs or sites like Amazon etc. When servicing any of the mowers you certainly don't need to be buying through JD when all the bearing are replaceable with the best bearing brands available in the world like SK, NSK etc. Even the tightener bearings are repairable if you have a minimal shop intelligence and a few tools. If "you" can't fix it, you need to fix that first before demonstrating your inabilities publicly.
Just because the mower is green and says JOHN DEERE does not mean it was manufactured by JOHN DEERE company. Most are made by Craftsman or MTD. For the prices the riders cost they do not last long in workmanship. I have had several different brands of mowers and mostly all are not very reliable for very many hours.
Bravo. Love your work.
Thanks..