Yes we did fit an incorrect battery, will just see how it goes. And from more research it looks like the Alternator is charging ok and only puts out the charge that the battery needs.
Brilliant! I would have been baffled by the steering and window resets without your expert advice as I replace the battery on my 2006 HSE. Thanks so much!
Thanks Ben didn't know about the window trick👍don't have a reader either have to use a volt meter to check mine. Can't get rid of the air susp inactive so I'll try the wheel trick too
I enjoyed the video. I have a 05 RR hse . I replaced the old battery with a new one. I am having issues with the in active suspension notice on my dash. I did the steering wheel reset left to right and the inactive suspension will not go away. All other symbols went away except that one.I don't have any issues with my suspension. Is there a step I'm missing? Everything was perfect with old battery as far as notifications!
Great video , has given confidence to swap mine out, not sure if I need to go for bigger one but I am replacing an agm which local battery Co incorrectly itted 3 years ago , which as you will no for a 2007 is not suitable ( no stop start on my car), the charging system needed for a agm is different and so if I do short journeys using, high load electric screen etc, it never totally recharges the battery and so when I park for 20 mins with side lights on as parking requirements, it ends up not starting, plus other ancillary items don't work properly. I'm just about to change it myself using your your video will help Just one thing, I'm thinking of getting a obd reader , which unit is needed for tdv8 2007 as a min Thanks There is one other job on a tdv8 which as difficult as battery, getting the spare wheel out. You need a crane if you've got 20"
There should be a strap for your spare wheel, that you hook on the tailgate, open the lower tailgate and it lifts the wheel out of the well. Mine is a 2010, without start stop. Had a Land Rover AGM fitted. I tried to put a bigger capacity battery in, it worked for just over a year. Fitted an AGM in it again, and so far so good. As for obd, there are so many choices, something budget or more expensive? The GAP tool is fantastic, but pricey. I have just put my icarsoft LR V2 up for sale, works well and goes into all systems on land rovers, just basic obd on any other make.
I don’t know what they didn’t put the battery in the back in the trunk like the BMW . There’s plenty of room and it’s out of the weather too ! .. I had to replace my battery 2 years ago a job that should of took 5 mins ended up 30 mins !! Ridiculous I like that scanner u have ! Can u give me a link for it ?? I need one for MY RR 2011 V8 5.0L
This is the one I have, I bought it direct from Gap Diagnostics. I have seen them for sale at authorised dealers too. www.gap-diagnostic.com/shop/iidtool-bt/
How is the battery behaving today, I have been researching batteries for l322 and swapping from an 019 to an 020 appears to be the consensus. Withe pre 2010 led acid is recommended not AGM and the brand you used is also recommended as original fitment to the L322.
I messed up in this video trying to fit a massive over powered battery. Check out this video where I fitted a correct AGM battery to the car, about a year later. ruclips.net/video/rDbjWVo6FDY/видео.html
@@Bensgarage I know someone with a Bosch s4 019 who’s looking to put in a Bosch s5 020 and wondering if it would fit and what the pros and cons would be etc. Apologies for being technical
This is the battery I fitted batteriemegastore.fr/product/batterie-de-demarrage-varta-i1/ a lot more power than the original battery but it is also bigger in size which made it tricky to fit in the hole. Not a straight forward swap. Also the old battery was an AGM where as the replacement is not.
@@bobstone1701I fitted a BOSCH S5 015, 110Ah, 12V (0 092 S50 150) to my 06 4.4 petrol earlier. No problems with size and figment. Ben’s video really helped. Trick I used was to use a couple of cable ties to keep all the cables out the way and also I unclipped the windscreen shroud to lift up the corner a touch so battery could ease in. That made things easier. Previous owner had a Halford- style (whatever the Swiss equivalent is) HOCO battery which was smaller but only 95ah. It wasn’t up to the job. workshop manual states 110ah and 850 amps so the Bosch / Varta is a decent choice based on factory spec.
A website I use for parts listed that battery for the car along with some others, so I just went for the biggest and most powerful to avoid any starting issues.
Ben Elliott That’s good to know. Every time I have disconnected a battery to replace it or other reasons I have had to type back in the radio code. I can only talk about Volvo’s or Ford’s though,. In fact the last battery I had replaced at Halfords the guy connected a battery device to the diagnostic port. (I forget what it’s called) to keep the power live in the car.
Charged my battery no I've got no electric windows air suspension inactive. The heater ac panel has never worked looks like someone has bypassed the fuse but can't find a switch to turn on the panel. 54 plate 4.4 petrol
Air susp inactive you can normally sort by turning it full lock one way then full lock the other, it resets the warning after a flat battery. No idea about windows and don’t think there is a switch for the panel.
@@Bensgarage apparently they bypass the fuse for the panel so the demist fan in the panel doesn't run the battery down. I've disconnected the wiring they did and put a fuse in and it works. Tried the steering wheel trick that didn't work
@@martinbishop5228 If the steering wheel trick didn't work you likely have a fault. Have you access to a code reader? Clear the fault codes and the re read the codes to see if any pop up.
@@Bensgarage I am in the market for a code reader which would you recommend. The lower suspension button on top of the drivers door doesn't work so I guess something is adrift somewhere. Thanks so much for your help
@@martinbishop5228 I have an iCarsoft LRv2.0 which is quite good, reads all the codes and clears faults. That one is reasonably priced. I also have a GAP IId tool, which does the same as the iCarsoft and more. With the Gap tool I can go into the ECU and change parameters and make settings that often only the dealer can do, but that comes at a price....its fairly expensive.
Yes we did fit an incorrect battery, will just see how it goes. And from more research it looks like the Alternator is charging ok and only puts out the charge that the battery needs.
Well done 👍 fitting battery’s to these cars isn’t an easy job for us but for you to tackle it very well done 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Brilliant! I would have been baffled by the steering and window resets without your expert advice as I replace the battery on my 2006 HSE. Thanks so much!
Limited mobility, but you still get stuck in. Awkward position for a battery. Well done Ben
Thanks Ben didn't know about the window trick👍don't have a reader either have to use a volt meter to check mine. Can't get rid of the air susp inactive so I'll try the wheel trick too
Did you manage to clear the air suspension inactive using the steering wheel trick
@@martinbishop5228 No, unfortunately it needed a new compressor then I bought a reset tool to do it.
I enjoyed the video. I have a 05 RR hse . I replaced the old battery with a new one. I am having issues with the in active suspension notice on my dash. I did the steering wheel reset left to right and the inactive suspension will not go away. All other symbols went away except that one.I don't have any issues with my suspension. Is there a step I'm missing? Everything was perfect with old battery as far as notifications!
Did you manage to sort this? I have same issue any help would be appreciated @@biggoakk
Any chance you can help me with mine. Got engine cult reduced powerf
Great video , has given confidence to swap mine out, not sure if I need to go for bigger one but I am replacing an agm which local battery Co incorrectly itted 3 years ago , which as you will no for a 2007 is not suitable ( no stop start on my car), the charging system needed for a agm is different and so if I do short journeys using, high load electric screen etc, it never totally recharges the battery and so when I park for 20 mins with side lights on as parking requirements, it ends up not starting, plus other ancillary items don't work properly.
I'm just about to change it myself using your your video will help
Just one thing, I'm thinking of getting a obd reader , which unit is needed for tdv8 2007 as a min
Thanks
There is one other job on a tdv8 which as difficult as battery, getting the spare wheel out. You need a crane if you've got 20"
There should be a strap for your spare wheel, that you hook on the tailgate, open the lower tailgate and it lifts the wheel out of the well. Mine is a 2010, without start stop. Had a Land Rover AGM fitted. I tried to put a bigger capacity battery in, it worked for just over a year. Fitted an AGM in it again, and so far so good. As for obd, there are so many choices, something budget or more expensive? The GAP tool is fantastic, but pricey. I have just put my icarsoft LR V2 up for sale, works well and goes into all systems on land rovers, just basic obd on any other make.
I don’t know what they didn’t put the battery in the back in the trunk like the BMW . There’s plenty of room and it’s out of the weather too ! .. I had to replace my battery 2 years ago a job that should of took 5 mins ended up 30 mins !! Ridiculous I like that scanner u have ! Can u give me a link for it ?? I need one for MY RR 2011 V8 5.0L
This is the one I have, I bought it direct from Gap Diagnostics. I have seen them for sale at authorised dealers too. www.gap-diagnostic.com/shop/iidtool-bt/
How is the battery behaving today, I have been researching batteries for l322 and swapping from an 019 to an 020 appears to be the consensus. Withe pre 2010 led acid is recommended not AGM and the brand you used is also recommended as original fitment to the L322.
Changing the battery seems to have done the job, we’ve not had any issues since fitting the new one.
After replacing my battery with a new one, the key won't turn anymore. RR L322. Any solution? What's the problem?
Does the key still unlock the car using the fob?
What battery should be fitted mine is the same as yours being facelift should it be an agm battery
I messed up in this video trying to fit a massive over powered battery. Check out this video where I fitted a correct AGM battery to the car, about a year later. ruclips.net/video/rDbjWVo6FDY/видео.html
A bit more detail would be great. Current Battery brand size, output etc and the new battery’s brand size output etc @Ben Elliott
I didn’t think to go over the specs, especially with the new one as it wasn’t a straight forward swap.
@@Bensgarage I know someone with a Bosch s4 019 who’s looking to put in a Bosch s5 020 and wondering if it would fit and what the pros and cons would be etc. Apologies for being technical
This is the battery I fitted batteriemegastore.fr/product/batterie-de-demarrage-varta-i1/ a lot more power than the original battery but it is also bigger in size which made it tricky to fit in the hole. Not a straight forward swap. Also the old battery was an AGM where as the replacement is not.
@@Bensgarage thanks for sharing
@@bobstone1701I fitted a BOSCH S5 015, 110Ah, 12V (0 092 S50 150) to my 06 4.4 petrol earlier. No problems with size and figment. Ben’s video really helped. Trick I used was to use a couple of cable ties to keep all the cables out the way and also I unclipped the windscreen shroud to lift up the corner a touch so battery could ease in. That made things easier. Previous owner had a Halford- style (whatever the Swiss equivalent is) HOCO battery which was smaller but only 95ah. It wasn’t up to the job. workshop manual states 110ah and 850 amps so the Bosch / Varta is a decent choice based on factory spec.
Hi, why did u fit a bigger battery than whats required?
So people can ask SFQs.
Cheers Ben.
A website I use for parts listed that battery for the car along with some others, so I just went for the biggest and most powerful to avoid any starting issues.
What code reader are you using? Seems nice and simple
It's a GAP Diagnostics IID Tool. Fairly expensive compared to some, but it is amazing what it can do.
Is that a H9/95R size battery?
Did you have the radio code?? Or don’t you need it in RR’s
I don’t think there is a security code for the radio. I could be wrong of course, but it all worked as normal without entering any numbers.
Ben Elliott That’s good to know. Every time I have disconnected a battery to replace it or other reasons I have had to type back in the radio code. I can only talk about Volvo’s or Ford’s though,. In fact the last battery I had replaced at Halfords the guy connected a battery device to the diagnostic port. (I forget what it’s called) to keep the power live in the car.
Charged my battery no I've got no electric windows air suspension inactive. The heater ac panel has never worked looks like someone has bypassed the fuse but can't find a switch to turn on the panel. 54 plate 4.4 petrol
Air susp inactive you can normally sort by turning it full lock one way then full lock the other, it resets the warning after a flat battery. No idea about windows and don’t think there is a switch for the panel.
@@Bensgarage apparently they bypass the fuse for the panel so the demist fan in the panel doesn't run the battery down. I've disconnected the wiring they did and put a fuse in and it works. Tried the steering wheel trick that didn't work
@@martinbishop5228 If the steering wheel trick didn't work you likely have a fault. Have you access to a code reader? Clear the fault codes and the re read the codes to see if any pop up.
@@Bensgarage I am in the market for a code reader which would you recommend. The lower suspension button on top of the drivers door doesn't work so I guess something is adrift somewhere. Thanks so much for your help
@@martinbishop5228 I have an iCarsoft LRv2.0 which is quite good, reads all the codes and clears faults. That one is reasonably priced. I also have a GAP IId tool, which does the same as the iCarsoft and more. With the Gap tool I can go into the ECU and change parameters and make settings that often only the dealer can do, but that comes at a price....its fairly expensive.
H7 is the battery they suppose to be used
Was that an H8 battery
No, it was a Varta L1, which was the wrong one for the car and I have since replaced it with the correct AGM type battery.
Here is a short version:
ruclips.net/video/3It-Kjdw0f0/видео.html
Short versions are ok, but I like to waffle on a lot, so it's difficult to get them short.
@@Bensgarage Thats why I am here, I like to hear the waffle about L322😉
Il a pas de bras le gars !