70.Panel Saws
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- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2024
- All you need to know about Western panel saws; panel, crosscut, and ripsaws._____________________________________________________________
To enquire about, and sign up for, individual and small group lessons in Woodstock NY call 845-430-3417, or email me directly at gbmunc@gmail.com.
Visit: www.blackburnbooks.com to view books. To order, call 845-430-3417 or email:gbmunc@gmail.com.
That's a lot of information in a 20-minute video! Thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you Graham for passing on your knowledge. Take care & stay safe.
Thank you, you too!
I absolutely love your videos! Please don't stop making them.
Thank you so much!
I thought I was all set for saws, but that inside start saw looks like it would be really handy! I might have to start looking around for one of those...
Good luck, they're still made new in Britain.
Thank You Graham. What i always find interesting is how poorly a RIP cut saw works in cross-grain and visa-versa.. The teeth are definitely specialised.
Tage Frid sharpened crosscut saws like rip saws. At least he showed doing it with a panel saw; I don't know it he did it with back saws and dovetail saws. They still worked well. I tried it on a cheap old saw and it worked for me. I had a friend test it, and it took about the same number of strokes to make a cut. That old saw seems to have disappeared. One section of the blade had a bulge in it, but I still liked that saw.
I think you can get "combination saws" nowadays that are basically that. I still prefer to use a RIP or CrossCut however. @@debluetailfly
@@ArchEdge You definitely have to have a rip saw to rip! I acquired an old rip saw that had badly mishaped teeth. I took it to a sharpening shop and asked them to retooth it. I meant for them to make all the teeth the same size and shape. They turned it into a 4 point crosscut saw. I was a truck driver at the time, and wasn't home much. I put the saw away and didn't touch it for a couple of years. When I got it out and tried to rip a board, it was doing almost NOTHING!! That was when I took a close look at it and saw what they had done. By then the shop was out of business. It took a LOT of file work . . .
Yep.
Scandinavians! But a really good woodworker.
SO MANY questions answered in this video. Thank you!
You're so welcome!
I love these videos. Thanks again Mr. Blackburn!
Glad you like them!
So much here! Thanks again
You are so welcome!
Thank you, Graham. Another winner.
My pleasure!
Using a lot my Disston D23, rip pattern. Found it on fly market ( covered with rust and dirt) the blade was straight the handle looked in good condition....and it serving me well. Looking forward to the frame saw video !
Stay tuned, coming soon.
As soon as i saw that beautiful ripsaw handle with the thumb hole for the other hand, in the tote angle video, i just had to make one. Its quartersawn oak so it looks very nice, but was pretty hard to get a good final surface. It basically looks antique already haha.
Thank you for the inspiration and of course the information, learning a lot from all of your videos :)
Wow, thanks
Quite interesting point on skewed saws. I' have to measure my "Warranted Superior" saw thickness.
Check it out!
Thanks Graham
Coming soon.
I heard that old-timers would use the nib to know how far back to pull the saw be fore starting to push forward again. It is like a warning that they were about to pull the saw out of the cut and should now push the other way.
Makes sense.
Great episode! Thank you Sir.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. May the algorithm be happy.
Hope so!
Great explanation. Thank you.
Glad you liked it
Nib reason #127 or thereabouts, it indicates when to stop on the pull stroke so you dont come out of the cut. Thank you for the great info. please keep them coming.
Reason #127 noted. Thank you!
Thanks for another great video!🇦🇺👴🏻
Thanks for watching!
Well done.
you're welcome!
Brilliant video! Impressive the amount of knowledge you manage to get into a video-in one shot! Understandable that you are a little bit out of breath in the end :^)
It's to make my editing chores eaasier.
So how do you chose which saw to use when cutting at 45 degrees to the grain? Great series by the way, thanks
Usually a crosscut saw.
Graham, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I enjoy your videos and your book. Recently I find myself gravitating toward wooden planes. I bought my first one, an ECE Primus plane about 30 years ago, long before I really had any understanding of how to truly use, maintain or sharpen a plane. Any plane. But I did find that it was a lot less work to push a wooden plane. Sometime during that thirty years, I spent fifteen years flat in bed with the spine from hell. Within the last two years, I've found a doctor who managed to match me up with a prescription that allows me to once more enjoy woodworking.
Very recently I have developed an interest in moulding making. I'm not particularly interested in the complex moulding plains which create all the features of a given pattern . I think I would rather stick with the rounds, hollows, snipes bills and rabbet plains. I was wondering if you would give me your recommendations for a starter set of plains. I would probably be purchasing them front HNT Gordon, out of Australia. Their work is absolutely first class. For instance, their snipes bill planes are boxed on the lower point with brass, creating what is normally a fragile profile, as a multi generational heirloom tool. And they use Gidgee, a local hardwood, that is extremely dense, heavy and oh so beautiful. Anyway, I would appreciate your recommendations as to sizes of each sort of necessary plane for my intended endeavor. If you've never made moulding, I don't think I would believe you, having seen all those shelves in your shop.
Again, thank you for your time and knowledge. I'm getting too old for many things (like alligator wrestling) but learning is not one of them.
Best regards,
Carson Wells
Stay tuned. Meanwhile I'll loo Gordon and gidgeee.k into
thanks
You're welcome!
I think you'll find they call it a Lamb's Tongue on the handle of the old saw, not a Lamb's tail .
True!
Graham, at the end when you explained saw leading, if I understand correctly, when the saw leads to the left, you would file the side of the saw on the opposite side. ie: Leads to the left, file the right side?
No, file the side that leads away from the line.
Got it. Thank you. My wife ordered one of your books last week for my birthday. Looking forward to reading it!
Graham is there a formula for saw length that you find works well?
I’ve read measuring wrist to armpit and adding a couple inches, measuring your saw stroke and then adding a couple inches, and just sorta guesstimating off a saw bench to avoid hitting the floor.
What’s your method?
Sounds about right. I have a selection - depends on the size of the workpiece.
@Graham Blackburn Woodworking: I visited your website in search of more info regarding the classes you might offer, but I was unable to find such. Do you offer specific classes or do you tailor classes per request?
If you call the number shown, we can tailor the classes to your specific needs.
What brand or type of saw set do you recommend?
I like the ones with the numbered anvils.
Thank you!