DANGEROUS new trend in internet table saw videos? You decide...
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- Опубликовано: 30 янв 2023
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-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
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I have a copy of "Getting the most out of your Circular Saw" from 1937 which was published by Delta showing all manner of techniques to be performed on their Unisaws. It shows in detail how to cut coves by traversing the workpiece across the blade, cutting curves by using a curved fence and gradually raising the blade, creating mouldings with ancillary cutterblocks, and even making barley twist spindles.
You wouldn't see that in a modern saw owner's manual!
I just bought a copy on eBay :)
I was going to say this. I remember reading shop notes and other woodworking magazines / zines from the 50s that had the same techniques. The saws back then (especially in the 30's) were more powerful and a bit sketchier safety wise than todays saws in some cases..
@@StumpyNubs new video series of the techniques in the book?
@@alphaforce6998 could you project insecurity any harder?
Pretty unfortunate how much more specialized and niche techniques tend to not get passed down over the years and forgotten sometimes. It happens all the time across all sorts of mediums -- eg. For drawing, most basic/beginner classes don't talk about drawing shadows using perspective when using perspective
Mechanical engineer here: I like your explanation for why putting pressure on the side of the teeth is negligible haha. Really puts it in perspective. One thing I can add is that if you think of how fast each tooth is going (140mph?) and then think of how fast you are pushing the wood into the blade (1 inch per second let's say, which is .06 mph), that means the velocity relative to the tooth is 0.023 degrees from the centerline. So yeah. Negligible.
Thanks for doing the math. I didn’t feel like it.
Would still appreciate the collab with the Slo Mo Guys. Some of us are visual learners.
Haha yeah I have an engineering background, just the basics. And my first thought was hmm applying force in the lateral direction sounds like a really bad idea it’s weak there it’ll fall outta balance etc. I just didn’t realize how little force is actually applied in that direction, it’s a bit deceptive intuitively but makes total sense in hindsight. I don’t think anyone really needs engineering experience to notice that but you definitely become more aware of materials/objects weaknesses
SSSSSHHHhhhhhhhh.
Unless you mess up and take too big of a bite
Jim, I always appreciate your common sense approach to subjects. I also really like the fact that you help us woodworkers think through things. Thank you so much for covering this topic and clearing the air over what is and isn't safe to do in this case and with woodworking tools of all types. GREAT JOB!
I really enjoy how this channel teaches important safety and critical thinking attitude. There's plenty of channels that show how to make a particular piece but not many deal with the questions you discuss.
Love your honesty and no knots approach to answering the internet’s most triggering questions. You do it professionally and never take the “poke the hornets nest” approach. You are not a shizam talker nor a mud slinger. You are straight grained quarter sawn oak; reliable, trustworthy, true to yourself, and look best after a slathering of BLO and freshly rubbed out coat of wax.
Keep it up my friend.
As always,
Thanks
-CYC
I love how your videos are always very clearly enunciated, efficient/succinct, and just generally well lit, well edited and a joy to watch. Thank you for producing the content you make!
I like this technique - I remember seeing Izzy do it long ago and thought it a genius method to produce needed round sticks. But I also recognize Izzy and James' skill-sets, talents and experience levels are up here (arm fully extended above head) while I am the first to admit my own skills are down here (stepping on my fingers). If you aren't feeling comfortable, DON'T. I love observing the talent of others when I'm barely qualified to drive the Possum Lodge van. Well done, Professor Hamilton. I value the challenge to stretch my skills.
If they don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy 😅
Not only are they extremely skilled they’re also both wise enough to respect safety first and not so something reckless. Two of the reasons why I’m subscribed to both of them.
@@aldenbrom4085 Keep yer stick on the ice!
Quando omni flunkus, moritati!
I'm pleased you did this video. I have been using a number of cross blade techniques (mostly coves ) for many years. The secret for me is to use the heaviest, thickest (best?) cross cut type blade you can get, and to go only as fast as the saw will accept easily. Great Video!
I sincerely love this channel. You don't take unnecessary risks when working with power tools and you stress the importance of protecting yourself in the process. Thank you so much for this. I don't do woodworking, but I enjoy watching it done, but I find myself anxious a lot of the time when I see people working with it, because they don't usually talk about the steps they take to protect themselves. I'm sure most of them are taking steps, they just don't discuss them in the video.
It certainly puts it in perspective when you said the tooth is moving at about 140 mph. As a kitchen fitter I used to have a table saw but about 10 years ago I invested in a rail/plunge saw and got rid of the table saw as I felt the rail system was way safer for what I needed. The safety advice you give is very clear I just wish some others on RUclips followed safer practice because some have their hands well into the danger zones and often reach over a spinning blade. If someone new to a table saw sees bad practice and mistakenly thinks it’s safe to do something those spinning blades will take no prisoners 😢
Each tooth is also only chipping off a small bit of wood at a time and then getting clear, it's not like a hand saw where you're holding the blade into the material.
Best two question safety evaluation I have ever heard.
I have now officially caught up on all of your videos. The amount of knowledge you have to pass on is mind blowing! I just started getting into wood working a little over a year ago. Most projects so far were made from old nasty plywood at my job to improve organization in the warehouse. I used these projects for learning and making my mistakes since they don’t have to look pretty, just function and hold up. Now I’m getting ready to start making nice stuff for the house, starting with a nice stove cover for something semi simple to test my ability to make something pretty AND functional.
Great video. I enjoyed Tamara’s video using this jig and I really appreciate your well explained videos on safety kickback etc. for those of use with limited space who could never justify a lathe for the limited use it would get the ability to safely use what we have in new ways is always a great thing.
I listen to you, Izzy Swann and follow Tamar. You always tell us to keep safe and alert. I would try these techniques if I felt comfortable doing it. Great video. Well worth saying.
I love your videos. Your talent and restraint at handling comments is nothing less than extraordinary. Rivaled by your general skill at woodworking. For bowl carving I’ll stick with a scorp! 😂. No way I trust myself that much!
Another good video James. I have all 10 digits (possibly thanks to you) but I appreciate not just blindly following safety advice but understanding the why and what could happen so I can make my own decisions before making a cut.
As usual you're a wealth of knowledge and advice. I try to never miss a video and have used plenty of your tips and tricks and you've never steered me wrong.
when I talked to a finish crew doing custom milled trim on a table saw, they told me that doing it with a standard blade is not a good idea, but it's easy to get a blade that is designed for milling.
the reason for that - the teeth on a milling blade are designed to cut material coming from the side, so it cuts more efficiently.
i am never disappointed watching one of your vids.
you explain it well
you use video to help explain (a picture is worth a thousand words)
the subject matter is always timely
Been using this method for cutting pool cue shafts on special, built converted table saw for 20 years. Never a problem. Actually, many cue makers have done it this way for years and years.
Experience with your saw is number 1 ... and comfort knowing yours and its limits.
I've done the long cove cuts, and bowl turning, but never had need for making a dowel.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Those jigs looked pretty safe to me. Lots of room for any error and still not going to hurt anyone.
Glad I found this, because I wondered about that particular use of a table saw. Thanks for clearly, concisely explaining how it works and what to watch for!
Always love the "Teach a person to fish" approach you take.
Whenever there’s an uproar, Stumpy is here to rationalize (or destroy) the issue. My favorite channel for good information!
What he is forgetting is the who of it. Some people shouldn't be near a table saw. The technique might be safe when done right, but there are a lot of idiots on RUclips on both sides of the camera.
A great explanation of the how and why these practices are reasonably safe.👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂I think it would be relatively easy to duplicate the fixture for turning cylinders. I would have to put some thought into the fixture for turning a bowl. It sure could be handy for producing a matched set of bowls though.😀😀
I once watched two cabinet makers use a skill saw as a table saw. They forgot their table saw back at their shop, so rather than drive back into town grab the correct tool. One man grabbed the skill saw held it upside down and fired it up, the other man took his sheet of mdf and ran it overtop of the skill saw. I took a picture for myself and family to enjoy and wondered why they didn’t just set up the material on their saw horses and use the skill saw as intended.
What i like about your channel is the health and safety aspect of working with tools. You cover everything.
I've seen a few of these videos so I'm looking forward to what you have to say
As usual, clear, concise info. Thanks for doing what you do.
Thanks for your explanation. I love finding useful, innovative and safe ways to use my tools. I know you've heard the complaints when people make a jointer out of a handheld planer, or when you clamp your belt sander upside down on the workbench for a long session of shaping. Keep up the good work and the flow of truthful information!
Wonderful information to present very useful information on safety of the table saw and how to present that there very useful jigs for making projects safely. Thank you for sharing, everyone stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
I really enjoy the thought you put into these videos and the information youre able to communicate.
Excellent video SN & I totally agree with you. As long as one strictly follows all of the safety procedures, they should not have any problems. 👍👍
Your preaching the value of the U.S. Army risk management model: Identify possible risks: For each risk… What is the worst that can happen; What’s the likelihood it will happen; What mitigation can you implement; What is the residual risk; Is the residual risk acceptable; Repeat if necessary
I really do love how, when Jim speaks, he is relaxed, eloquent, and fluent, and it doesn't seem like he's reading from a script. But at no time do you ever hear him hesitate, say 'err' or 'um', or say 'like' as so many people do nowadays..."Like, the blade is like, turning at like, many thousand RPM's and could easily like, cut your fingers off. Like, ouch!"
You're a class act Jim. You put many of us to shame.
Cove crown on the table saw pits a lot more stress on the blade than this and I’ve never heard of a problem doing that. I’ll also cut curves out of framing lumber for curved doorways. They actually used to make a cupped blade just for cutting curves in a circ. One for each direction you could cut the curve. And a blade that was 3 triangles to cut curves in framing lumber.
James- as always, excellent video. I like your focus on safety. And of course, I really like the video background view. It will become Exhibit A in my argument to my wife that there is no such thing as too many clamps.
Love this run down on safety of these techniques. Keep up the good work. 👍
Love the Risk Analysis: Reckless vs. Reasonable. That's gold. Great vid
Man, I really appreciated the way you approach the issues and explain things, thanks for your videos, as a newbie to carpentry they have helped me a lot, greetings from Mexico
Good video, even though I'm not planning on using a table saw to turn furniture legs or bowls anytime soon. I recently saw Izzy Swan's video about his top 10 most badass jigs and the lathe jig was one of them. As for safety, the biggest thing is to have patience and take your time. If something doesn't go as planned its easy to get frustrated and start rushing and that's when something bad happens. If something unexpected happens, better to turn off the saw and step back and evaluate. In addition to safety, wood costs money and I'd like to do a project without having 5 or 6 failures on the scrap pile.
I was taught that if I'm cutting multiple pieces, to cut the longest piece first. because if I screw it up, I can make a shorter piece out of it.
Love the way you break things down 👍
I totally agree "If something doesn't feel right don't do it".
I recently stopped using a small circular saw and am considering buying bit and brace for simple DIY drilling jobs because I have an unexplained problem with my hands that has made them weaker and less coordinated. I just don't feel safe any more.
Great video, table saw scares the hell out of me so I won't be doing any of this stuff but I'll recommend it to my friends lol.
I've used this method freehand on a cheap tablesaw to make fence braces for farm fence. Fence builder guys were amazed at how well it worked and how simple it was to do. Drill a hole in the vertical posts and insert. No extra nails/screws/bolts - just held in place by tension from the wire.
Very well presented and informational James. Thank you.
Learned this working in a cabinet shop 20 years ago. We would position the axis of rotation to the side of the blade, and use the blade tilt to control the diameter of the rotating part. It's hardly a new idea.
Thanks for all the information you put out. Most people do not understand what you talk about
Highly articulate presentation.
When you said 4,000 a second my first thought was “240,000rpm, dear god!!!” took me a second to realize my error lol
You can even get purpose-made cove-cutting table saw blades that are thicker and have radiused edges. Not that a normal blade won't do it, but blade made for it can safely take heavier cuts.
Fantastic, James! Thanks! 😊
Honestly, I'd worry more about the making of the jig itself than the use of it. Things like don't putting big steel screws in the path of the blade, for example... Those can cause problems. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Another well explained video on a topic that can be confusing to many to gather what is valid vs. shady Internet sourced information. IMHO... like using a router, you need to be wise, careful and do not try to take off too much material at once (use several passes).
Agreed, the table saw is dangerous. I have cut many circles on the table saw but I do it the right way.With a center pin and cutting only about 1/8 if an inch at a time. It kinda fun!!!! I'm going to have to go back and watch the video on making a bowl...
0:46; "Is best determined by asking yourself two questions": And here they are: "Do you feel lucky"; and "Well, do you, PUNK?"
I've used a variation of this technique using a router, the jig was fixed, the piece was rotating and the router sat on a recessed grove and was able to move up and down the length of the piece. It was very effective. I didn't even think that I could do it with a table saw like this. I like the router method better.
I like your take and breakdown on this "method" of table saw use. The Jigs are the biggest help in this use. Helps with repeatable operation and size!
Ahem.... I am going to stay away from making regular "dowels", ie: 1/4" and larger on the table saw....
I'll stick with the pencil sharpener style; Less spinning parts in the operation!
Great informative vid!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the sensible conversation.
Another great video. I’m eager to try this out. Thanks!
I'm glad you addressed the wear on the saw/blade. I was concerned about that. The bowl jig scares the heck out of me, though. Especially when cutting the inside - what happens if something causes the bowl to crack/shatter? Your hands are now directly over the blade without any protection. Probably wouldn't ever happen, but it would be nice to find a way to use the jig without your hands in that position.
Unless you are using severely compromised wood, I can't imagine how lightly shaving material from a 5 or 6 inch thick block could cause it to shatter. Even when you are done carving the inside, it is still a few inches thick.
@@StumpyNubs I'm probably overestimating the forces on the wood. Thanks for the reply!
I used this technique to make some tapered round legs for a small side table I was making (I don't have a lathe). The only issue I ran into was posting a short video of the cut on the woodworking subreddit! Wow. You know what they say about opinions.
Good video, if someone is concerned about the lathe jig and the workpiece shattering it would be easy to make a cover over the top. A greater safety issue might be pushing the jig too far and exposing the blade, a simple stop could eliminate that concern.
Loved the video. I’m making me some bowls 👍. As a side note, I’ve seen some companies require gloves when using power tools, even for the table saw. Do not wear gloves or have sleeves when operating a table saw. If your clothing or glove gets caught, the blade will pull it in with your body part with it.
I build medical devices for a living, and your two questions are similar to the FDA's guidelines for determining safety levels: 1) What is the probability of a hazardous situation occurring, and 2) What is the probability of the hazardous situation leading to harm?
You answer those questions, assess the risks, and mitigate them if you can; if the probabilities are high and you can't mitigate the risks, then you just don't do it.
Great video and explanation. I made my first cove cuts few months ago was pretty easy I felt save. Turning a leg I would say right jig right blade take your time should be safe and fun ( I dont own a lathe and wont buy one wife may one day she kinda wants one ) to me table saw would really be more accurate with right jig and time and care taken. But as always in woodworking always more than one way to do things just what tools you have and how you approach it just remembering you want you eyes and fingers after job done.
I love what you said. Sometimes when it comes to internet trends its like watching an episode of Good Idea and Bad Idea.
Great, now I need to go watch "Animaniacs!"
Hey Stumpy, I have a request for a video. It's applicable to your channel, but a little off your normal topic.
Could you make a video with some "first tool" recommendations for kids? You know, in the spirit of starting a new generation.
My oldest kids are young (6 and 4) and curious about what I build with my tools. This summer, I want to get them a hammer, hand saw, tape measure(maybe a few other things).
I've done some looking, and most of what I've seen for that age group falls into the "toy" category.
I suppose that's understandable, but I want to get them some good quality stuff they can learn with and later build rudimentary bird houses, boxes, chairs, whatever they want.
My dad started that with me when I was about 5 or 6, and I had a great time.
Maybe it's too much work to make a video of it, but if you have some resources you could recommend, I'd appreciate it.
Hey man! This is actually directly in my line of expertise. I used to run a shop at a small private school, teaching kids aged 5 through 18 to use tools. I'm a math teacher now, but I did that for 7 years. I'd suggest getting them a drill like the Makita FD01 or FD10, which is small and lightweight compared to huge heavy contractor drills. Do this instead of a hammer. Using a hammer and nails requires a lot of coordination and offers many opportunities for crushed fingers. It's also not very reversible. You can pry out nails, but it's difficult to fix mistakes. Screws can be repositioned and reused multiple times, and the battery power lets kids spend more of their energy building, and less on the actual fastening process. Plus the drill can be more versatile! You can use it to drill holes, or even as a motor for a small go kart or robot or something.
For cutting, I would suggest not going for a hand saw. Freehand cutting is hard work for adults, and six year olds struggle with the fitness to cut through a single 2x4. You can teach them to safely use the power miter saw with your supervision! I've done that with about 1000 kids (I mean that literally) with no injuries. It does require that you be there with them, but in our experience that's much safer than a hand saw. You can set up a cut with the wood clamped, and there's no way to slip with a miter saw. The only injuries I've had from woodworking are from hand tools. If you don't want to go the power tool route, see if you can get an old school hand miter saw! It's a hand saw built into a frame with bearings that constrains its motion, making better, safer cuts.
With a method to cut and a drill for joining with screws, you can build a bewildering variety of projects! I also highly recommend looking for 2x3s instead of 2x4s. They're really cheap, and lighter weight, which makes them easier for kids to use. 1x2s and 1x3s are also great. I'd also suggest a quality tape measure like the FastCap Procarpenter Standard Reverse and maybe also their Metric Reverse so they can build an intuitive sense of both systems of measurement.
Honestly, if you want to talk more about this, let me know, and I'd be happy to chat over email or phone. Getting kids into the shop is still one of my biggest passions!
Decades ago my parents & grandparents bought me 'toy' tools & they were really frustrating. They had metal parts, not all plastic, but the saw wouldn't cut and the screwdrivers just twisted, but not the screw. So, decent screw drivers, a 'razor saw' (better model hobby stores) or a slightly larger 'gents saw' (Lee Valley/Veritas and others), a 12"/30cm stainless steel ruler, a smaller tape measure (small hands can't really handle the big 24'/8m ones), an Engineer's or Speed square (combination squares have parts that can get lost). Lee Valley has a very limited run of their small claw (5oz) hammer that was discontinued (they found a bunch of head castings in the warehouse) or there is their 6oz 'pocket hammer'. And a medium tool box to keep the tools in (a plastic one is likely to last longer than the junky metal ones I've seen offered in most stores). You may also want to use some paint or tape to mark the kids tools so you won't 'accidentally' borrow them (like my neighbor)
My son is 4. I find a good tool to let him have a play with is a spoke shave. It's small enough to handle and good at learning about grain direction and how wood cutting tools work without too much danger. He likes being able to make curly shavings come off the wood. Hand planes are still a bit big and unwieldy for him yet, and I don't want him to drop my expensive low angle block plane on the floor either 🙂
He also has an egg beater drill. I put a masonry bit in it because he sometimes likes to drill holes in dirt, because he's 4. It'll sort of drill a hole in wood if you're persistent.
A small saw like a Gent's saw or small Japanese backsaw could also be useful, but there's a risk of cutting yourself, so I supervise saw use closely for now.
My toolkit would be:
- Gent's saw (you could also cut down a cheap hand saw so it's more useable for younger children, modern ones only have hard teeth, so should be easy enough to modify)
- coping saw (for cutting odd shaped holes)
- small claw hammer
- egg beater drill with some small drill bits (for drilling screw/nail holes)
- spoke shave
- small half round rasp
- low angle block plane (if you can find a decent one that you don't mind taking some abuse).
- combination square
- marking gauge (optional).
I think with that, you could undertake some decent projects and learn some basic skills of hand tool carpentry.
Hey Guys, thanks for the suggestions. I'm excited to get them building and be building with them!
@@Gumbatron01 when my kid was little, I gave him a 5" random orbit sander with variable speed. Turned in down so it wouldn't get away from him. Now he's 29 and still has that sander.
I made one of the RUclips table saw/drill spindle making jigs. It easily cuts it down in one pass. Quite fascinating to watch. I was to make double tapered chair stretchers. Has a great finish as well. Not much sanding required. You can tilt the blade into the piece to fine tune the diameter.
STUMPSTER talkin’ logic, common sense, and looking out for our safety, so we can do great work. 👊😀
Stumpy - thanks for sharing your thoughts, and agree with you. Any one see the safety issue @4:12? Seriously... running a table saw lathe with a hoodie!?!?! Hanging on every shop door in middle and high-school - No Loose Fitting clothing, necklaces, cords, ties, watches, worn beyond this point.
Your thumbnail was too helpful. I thought: "Oh, I'd better watch this just in case... Huh. Nope, that's incredibly dumb. No way I'll ever do that. No need to watch the video." :)
I've made long cove molding using this technique. The key is to take very shallow cuts until you reach your desired depth. You cannot do this on a lathe
Cue makers have converted table saws to dowel turning or tapering machines for a long time. Those shafts are held in with less force than the examples in the video, but the passes are so fine that the force on the blank spinning is minimal.
I've related it to using the trenching feature on chop saws for half lap joints, at the end I've always gone side to side to clean up the cut after all the reliefs are made. I would not ever try to remove all the wood at once going side to side but it cleans up fine when the reliefs have been made.
I've used that technique to make a cove, when I was matching details in a bedroom set in a built-in armoire. It seemed reasonably safe to me.
Thank you for clearing this up.
I would also argue this is a safer way to prepare wood for the lathe, most of the sketchy things I have experienced while working on the lathe are in the beginning with a square piece of wood. This also allows for the maximum workpiece for the lathe. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
table saws are inherently dangerous. ALL power tools are dangerous. stepping outside to check your mail has risk. driving is VERY dangerous. the key is to be alert, and always focus on the task at hand. I have used table saws to cut covers for several decades, and never had an issue, because I pay attention, and work within the limits of my tool. I really appreciate that way you present things like this. you admit there is some risk, but discuss mitigation. good video.
Rational thought process. Asking the second question. Perfect.
I really liked the cove cutting. That was new to me. I'd like to see more of that before trying it.
I’m not even a woodworker, but that was informative and well reasoned, very nice video sir
I’ve just started making one of these dowel jigs so good to see this video
Tamar puts out some good videos.
I didn't see problem with her making those legs like that, probably because I seen Izzy do it a few years back which was the name I couldn't remember while watching Tamar's video.
Thanks for the reminder.
Thanks for sharing James. Stay safe and keep up the good videos. Fred.
The point about needing multiple _exact_ copies of something is apt. Since the jigs on the table saw will give you consistent results by removing most of the variables from the equation. Whereas trying to get consistent results by hand on a lathe.... it can be done, but that typically comes with a lot of practice and steady hands. Whereas someone comfortable using a table saw can get consistent results from one of those lathe jigs with little effort with the tradeoff being flexibility.
Risk assessment factors: Frequency -- how often do you to the task being assessed? Probability -- how likely is it that something will go wrong when you do the task? Severity -- how severe are the consequences of that something going wrong?
I have to say I have seen these before and agreed the application was for the most part safe. However I simply just can't bring myself to do it. I never had a reason to do those techniques either, and to be honest, I more than likely wouldn't. That is more of a comfort level for me personally but great video on it.
I've made thousands of plunge cuts into timber with a hand held circular saw and then cleaning off those narrowly spaced cuts with horizontal action to create a
You can absolutely feed wood perpendicular to the direction of a sawblade, as long as you're not trying to remove too much material at once and the material is well secured. I can't count how many times I've used a skilsaw as a makeshift planer by setting the saw depth to ~1/32 of an inch and pulling the saw sideways across a plywood end to trim it down exactly where I want it to be.
One example off the top of my head, I built a curved lecture hall with movie theater-style seating where the tiered floor was a high gloss concrete finish. The high gloss had to be done at the time of placing rather than buffing it in after the fact, meaning the finisher was there for about 10-12 hours repeatedly hitting the concrete with a high speed power trowel to bring out the shine in the floor as it cured. Each new bench tier had an elevation tolerance of +/- 1/32" from design at the front edge of the bench(there were a lot of electrical and mechanical rough-ins that had to be at exact elevation and it was all architectural, long story), and the top of my bench forms had to be flush to the finished concrete elevation (rather than running the forms tall) so that the finisher could run his polishing power trowel across the top the formwork in order to properly finish all the concrete.
So after installing my forms but before pouring concrete, I would take a rotary laser and check the height of the curved plywood form every few inches and if the plywood was slightly high, I would mark the edge of the ply with my pencil and then slowly shave the plywood edge down by pulling my skilsaw sideways across the top of the form until the pencil mark just disappeared. Then check the height again. Works like a charm, especially if you attach stair gauges to the shoe of your saw as a guide to make the blade position consistent for every pass.
It's the only tool that scares me. This is a good encouraging video.
My problem actually comes from wood shop in high school...long story.
I have to use table saws, but I'm timid every time. That makes me unsafe.
The speed of each of the saws teeth and the slow-ish rotation of the wood being turned surely results in the blade cutting away the approaching wood as it normally does, long before the rotation has a chance to impart much of a sideways force. You should get the Slowmo Guys to do a high speed video to see....
Great tips and advice as usual thanks
Thanks for posting this. It is a process that many of us out in the woodworking universe use regularly. I concur with others who are comfortable with this approach to cylinder turning. Frankly, beyond how much faster you can produce a cylinder on a tablesaw with a proper jig, I feel safer doing preliminary rounding of blanks on the table saw than on the lathe. The irregular meeting of the lathe tools and the usually odd shaped startup hunk of wood present some rather hairy scenarios IMO. My only real concern with the way the cylinder is turned in the 3x3 Custom video you referenced is how close the drill is to the trailing jig fence. It is easily conceivable that the user could push the jig a bit too far and catch the drill with the saw blade. The potential for that happening is enough of a concern that, If I were making the same jig, I would add about a 2-4 inch socket drive extension to mitigate the problem. It is a simple thing to do and the improved safety would make me a LOT more comfortable. But that's just me.
Just put a stop block on the underside of the jig to hit the table edge so it's impossible to saw through the back end into the drill, hands etc.
I've made all kinds of jigs to move parts diagonally across the blade. You just have to make sure the part is held securely, take shallow cuts, watch your feed speed and use a standard thickness blade (not a thin kerf blade). Be careful and you shouldn't have any issues, but always be prepared in case something goes wrong.
Great ingormative video as always. Still scary to try it... 😀
I will use my table saw with different sized blades to make concave sanding blocks running the piece sideways, but I don't get aggressive with deep cuts. I also use it like a bandsaw for straight cuts with long pieces, but I never screw around with short pieces that can get jammed between the fence and the blade. That space between the fence and blade is a killer. If I need to use another tool like a lathe, I set up a ROUTER jig.
"That space between the fence and blade is a killer." I couldn't have said it better.
I've been trying to think of a way to say exactly what you just said. From now on, I'll just post a link to this video. Thank you Mr Hamilton