Hey Mike, like your builds! I remember years ago reading how Neil Peart favored his "#1" Slingerland snare for decades because he was convinced someone must've sanded down the snare beds from factory. So I'm convinced with a little more effort on the beds that you can get that snare sounding great. Edit: Sorry, I meant snare beds, not bearing edges.
Building drums is tougher than people think. It takes a lot of fiddling and trial and error to get them to sound good at multiple tunings. Many think they can buy what’s needed, throw it together, and they will magically have a top notch snare. That was me. Even with high dollar parts and a true shell, bearing edges and beds, are usually the tougher areas to decide to blend. If a seasoned builder cuts them for you using their experience, that of course may be better, but what’s the fun in that! Die cast i don’t like at all, and on this shallow, very thick drum with 10 lugs, you not going to get much body. And you may never get it to sound the way you want. Solutions: Get 1.6mm 3 flange hoops, use deeper beds, 45 deg snare side edge, 45 deg edge on batter but round the outside a bit. Be sure the snares are touching the bottom head, including the end plates. Loosen that bottom head a bit. Good luck, and don’t buy cheap shit from over there please.
Agree with your comments on snare build. Sounds really good tuned high. Low tuning not so much. Yes, you should find a drum builder and get some insight on drum building. Your videos are so inspiring. Keep up the great work. Good health and blessings to you.
An obvious place to look for inspiration and concepts on beds, but also not as easy as looking at something and replicating, still a lot of technique with hand cut beds. I think that’s the bigger thing I’m working on,
I was really curious to hear the walnut. In my experience, walnut is where pleasing resonance goes to die. It looks fantastic, but often sounds like concrete. After hearing your build, I'm now curious as to the effect stamped hoops and thin heads would make. Since normal playing isn't going to produce particularly pleasing resonance from the shell, that drum seems to need a head/hoop combination that relies on the interplay of head resonance. Note the "low tuning" sound in this video. The "resonance" chokes up a few milliseconds post strike. That suggests to me that the energy delivery to the shell is well below the actual energy required to cause the shell to "ring", or resonate properly... which suggests a standing wave forming within the drum...that standing wave (if that is actually the case ) will produce a "hit-&/or" miss set of frequencies that may match the resonant frequencies (prime and harmonic) of the heads. Cast hoops will further limit the resonant frequencies of the heads, which is why stamped hoops may help, since they produce a more random set of resonant sectors across the heads. As to snare beds... your setup actually sounds pretty good. While it may not be a popular opinion, I prefer an attenuated response from snares in live band performance because of the delay effect. A quick and quickly dissipating snare response just sounds better to me live (R&B, Blues, Rock). Thanks for doing this video! You did a great job!
Medium and high tuning sounds incredible. Nice Job. I find for lower tuning you might consider a different bearing edge (baseball bat or hybrid) for the batter side. Head choice makes a huge difference as well. Don't give up on this drum it just needs some tweaking. I have a snare bed template for my router, highly suggest it.
Through building many shells of different 12:02 have determined that walnut is not a great wood for drums. I find its tuning range is narrow and favors lower tunings and snares like higher tension.
I’ve played some walnut drums I absolutely love, but its hardness probably affects the way you need to build it or tune in order to get the most out of it.
Snare beds - had never even heard of such a thing, in over 30 years of monkeying around with drums. But that was 30 years playing, not fixing up or customising so I'm extremely glad you mentioned this thingy as I'm doing my first custom mess around.
That's been my process thus far. Just have heard from a number of drum builders how modern heads don't require the same depths of beds as older vintage drums tend to have.
thank you for sharing your experiences of building your own drums with all of us I always find your videos very good and they always convey a lot of knowledge. After I tried to improve a wooden snare myself, I had the same results as you when listening: that the drum was not sensitive enough and I also suspect that I did not achieve good enough results with the snare bed. So it would be interesting if you sent your drum to a professional drum maker who would replace the support edge and then you could make another video of how it sounds afterwards and how the drum responds
@@malonedrum I am confident that you will also show us this experience via video and I am looking forward to seeing how you will make the drum sound as you wish good luck!
Mike, i think you did a fantastic job.From my past experiences, when i ran across a drum that i had issues when tunning, it always seemed to be either they snare wires , or the way the smare bed was cut., example being, Dw collector snare drums., could never figure out why i couldnt get the wood ones to sound how i wanted, DCP, had the same problem, they had DW , change there formula on cutting the snare bed. Presto!!!!! It changed everything !!!!
Funny, the low tuning was my favorite of all of the tunings you did. It had almost an Alex Van Halen vibe. The higher tunings all sounded a bit too thin to me.
Great stuff! I'm loving your videos. I am a drum restoration enthusiast and would love to see a whole video explaining the tools you use for restoration. Thank you!
Great bild Mike ! but sound on snare is most in bottom head,so try to put tension on bottom head to be like table top,super tight and then see results and adjust snares with tension screw.cheers !
Ha, I just bought that at my local hardware store. It was expensive, but a total lifesaver for figuring that stuff out. Here it is: www.amazon.com/Thread-Measuring-Vertical-Checker-Metric/dp/B071HTKL2T?mcid=d077b95eb2133c2d83a118a1f8f58e57&hvadid=693071814670&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10095162357214681670&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019410&hvtargid=pla-1599800458221&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=malonedrum02-20&linkId=6f119ca65b79611a682b0a802a62df04&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Mike, maybe try triple flanged hoops? I'm not a fan of die cast hoops on a snare drum (at least that's what it looks like you're using). The triple flanged hoops will be a little less staunch and may give you what you're looking for in the lower tuning region. But I must say that the result of your build is very nice. I could never cut my own bearing edges, let alone a snare bed. So: Kudos.
I love diecast hoops on snares, though I buy the cheap Amazon ones 😬 I need to see what dfd are getting for them, though I vaguely remember checking, and I think they were pricey.
beautiful snare! Great build. It definitely sounds best in the higher tuning ranges. In my opinion it may sound better with a more deep snare bed, but I know it's tricky to dial in. I think it would help with the snare response. Other factor might be tuning. The hardware looks decend tho. Anyway, great job :)
Interesting, most of the drum builders I’ve talked to have said they think deep beds aren’t as important as they used to be with modern heads. I’m still navigating it on my own before I can form an opinion.
The medium tuning to me sounds the best. Of course, this is a matter of opinion as I like the midrange "fat" sound. And yes, it's hard to find a snare that has a variety of tuning capabilities.
maybe try some 10 lug triple flanged on it. a shell that shallow with diecast hoops is bound to do odd things. also, a trick for tension rods that are too long, on the snare side use a 'no collar' snare side head. my go to is a remo ambassador no collar. that thing is like ketchup it goes on everything. nice build man.
@@malonedrum Mike sorry I was posting on my phone... I restored a 10m yacht, all the interior in marine ply. I would have used 3x the epoxy, ended up with a mess if I tried to brush it on. You can find razor sharp stainless applicators (like those in car body repair) apply some varnish to 30% and then scrape and spread the finish flat. It helps lay the grain flat too and it takes 3 - 4 coats. Because there is no build up or brush marks to speak of, each coat flattens out for the next, achieving a near glass finish. You can matt it with a scuff if you don't want the mirror. Naturally, this only works on flat surfaces, which is what the face of a cylinder is. I hate overspray, covered my son's car in a mist of 2k once, yeah I've got spray guns, wasn't going to make that mistake again! For the love of drums :)
For lower tuning, try cranking the hell out of the bottom head. It makes quite a difference. Awesome video though! I found the commentary very helpful.
Great looking snare drum Mike, those tube lugs look nice. Ali? I had the same low tuning issue with one I built. I recut the bearing edges to a full 45 degree to the outside of the shell and then sanded on the flat plate to 240, fine sanded a radius to 400 grit. Sounded better, Great job.
I have used a flat top bearing edge myself to limit ring slightly, and it works! Leave a 2mm flat spot on the apex of the edge all the eat around, especially on batter. I sand flat the spot as well but I go to 400 then 1500 grit on the bearing edges so they are like glass. I then add bees wax on the edges where heads touch, lube tension rods using white lithium grease, and always add Hendrix plastic sleeved washers. All this makes tuning smooth as butter. It also helps for tuning in very small increments. Try these easy ideas, you will not regret it.
Hi. First of all, nice video. Second, i would say the opposite happened to me: I liked the low tuning more than the high tuning, but that's preference. About why it doesn't sound that high end, like you said, it could be a lot of thing. If i have to bet in something, i will say it's the shell. There's a reason why it was so cheap because from here, you did everything right in that built. It would be nice see another one. Until next video. Adiós.
I agree with you on the tuning, at low tuning the snares were too “bouncy”, not making contact with the head at all times. Also the last demo sounds like the groove of Bill Withers’ “Use Me”. If so I could see why, that song to me sounds like it would be in The Pocket Kings’ repertoire.
I've seen Jeff's videos, and have tons of respect for work and thoughts on drum construction. Although, I do agree with him on ribber gaskets, I think the rigid nylon gasket like I used here help avoid over tightening and adding too much friction to the shell. In this case, I think it's ok and not causing damage, but I agree it reduces the vibration from the shell.
It would be an interesting experiment to remove the lug screws from the shell and rotate them 180 degrees so they "free float". All those lugs screwed to the shell have to dampen the shell resonance.
That's an interesting idea. I think there's more to it than that to get a good evenly tuned free floater. What you're saying would create more of a single tension drum sound.
maybe a roundover on the outside of the bearing edge with a 45 on the inside and a deeper snare bed would get you where you need to be? I have a question. Why did you wait until after you did the finish to cut the edges and drill the holes? I like to do all that before finish a drum unless the finish is a wrap. That way you can do all your layout lines lightly directly on the shell and save yourself a lot of time with masking. Plus I like to have finish on the edges and in the holes to better seal the shell. Shell looked great, and I agree that it didn't sound that good in the lower tuning.
I’m not typically a fan of round overs on a snare until it’s maybe 6” deep, but sure that could fun to try. I like to finish first so I don’t have to be as cautious of finish getting through holes and edges while doing it. To me it just makes sense to get the messy portion done before finishing those layout steps
@@malonedrumno but adding a few smaller holes around the perimeter can help. I did this but made vents I could add small deco screws to close if I wanted and this really helped my drum build. It was a last resort for me on a Keller very thin 6” maple shell I never could get to sound really good.
The takeaway I got from this is that you have a very keen discernment of what sounds "hi end" or not. Is that based on it's versatility more or sound quality? Or is there one snare that is so great that is your comparative basis?
Hey Mike! Love the video. I was wondering if you thought this was a good spend for those looking to get into custom drums and if you thought a whole kit would be a good idea/how I could get the shells for it? Thanks.
If you're just starting out, I recommend experimenting around with some cheap orphan drums before really getting into buying new shells and nice parts. You'll cut your teeth on low investment/loss equipment and then when you go to work on quality materials you'll learn how much easier it is to do.
Sounds great mate, any reason why you don't cut edges before painting? I find not using the rubber gaskets opens the drum up a heap, like a big difference. Love the videos.
If I did finishing after, I’d need to be a lot more careful with spilling on the edges. I think these gaskets were a nylon harder material so less absorption of the vibration of shell, I think.
Maybe a round over edge would have been interested.Walnut is warm and cuts.This drum not really.Feel the die cast hoops are not necessary and maybe shell should have been left deeper .Just a thougjt. 12:34
Nice work! Considering the thickness of the shell AND the diecast hoops, I am not surprised that this is a drum that needs to be cranked for the best overall sound. The Double 45's are a good choice for a thick shell. Roundovers would have choke the head. Too much shell mass, plus too much head-to-shell contact = Dead Zone.
@@malonedrum People who call for roundovers on a thick shell do not understand the physics of drums. Thick, mass-y shells would require a ton of energy to get them to resonate. The increased head-to-shell contact of roundovers would just rob that resonate energy. As a result, thick-shell drums are usually "head tone" drums. Not a bad thing, just a different flavor. "Roundover edges" has become a buzz phrase. 🙄
That drum sounds great high, but nasty overtones in lower tunings. Maybe try different heads and play with the snare side tuning. What sort of sale was it that you got a second hand shell?
i think the sound was like that because of the finishing that u use try again qiuth oil base finish or nitrocesuloso on the outside and oil in the inside or just try it with out finish
Dicast hoops dont flex so as you tune one rod it affect the whole tension a lot more that on a flanged hoop. I'd say buying a tune bot would be a great $100 invest meant for you are you can see on a screen how nuances like this happen . You might have uneven tension on those hoop and don't even know it muting the drum. it sounds very choked.
I agree it sounds choked at points, but I’m not confident it’s tuning, it feels like the shell. Walnut is so sturdy, that I think it doesn’t resonant at this thickness nearly enough as a normal shell would.
I'd highly suggest a fan exhausting your spray work glad to see you had a door opened, but you need to push that shit out cause building it in a room which it will it can combust and your mask isn't a respirator either just an fyi the filters only last 40 hours when sealed in a bag 40 hours of use. Unless your working with harsh oil stuff then guys swap them daily if not after application
I couldn't disagree with you about the sound more -- the lowest tuning was fantastic, tho I would expand the beds and put Gibraltar 40 wires on it. Totally agree about 8 vs 10 lugs, especially with as thick and heavy as that shell is. All that extra weight, even the longer lug mounting screws, all of that sucks the tone and sensitivity away. If you had used individual lug casings and an 8 lug design, again with 40 wires, I bet that drum would knock your socks off! Either way, your video earned my subscription and the first of many thumbs up!
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m a simple man; I see drums, I click. And what a cool idea for a video. Earned my subscription.
Simple, I like it
We’re the same, Jack!!!!! We are the same!!!!!!!
Hey Mike, like your builds! I remember years ago reading how Neil Peart favored his "#1" Slingerland snare for decades because he was convinced someone must've sanded down the snare beds from factory. So I'm convinced with a little more effort on the beds that you can get that snare sounding great.
Edit: Sorry, I meant snare beds, not bearing edges.
🤞
Building drums is tougher than people think. It takes a lot of fiddling and trial and error to get them to sound good at multiple tunings. Many think they can buy what’s needed, throw it together, and they will magically have a top notch snare. That was me. Even with high dollar parts and a true shell, bearing edges and beds, are usually the tougher areas to decide to blend. If a seasoned builder cuts them for you using their experience, that of course may be better, but what’s the fun in that! Die cast i don’t like at all, and on this shallow, very thick drum with 10 lugs, you not going to get much body. And you may never get it to sound the way you want. Solutions: Get 1.6mm 3 flange hoops, use deeper beds, 45 deg snare side edge, 45 deg edge on batter but round the outside a bit. Be sure the snares are touching the bottom head, including the end plates. Loosen that bottom head a bit. Good luck, and don’t buy cheap shit from over there please.
Well, they sponsored the video and I haven't had any issues with their parts, so I'll agree with you on everything but the last point.
Agree with your comments on snare build. Sounds really good tuned high. Low tuning not so much. Yes, you should find a drum builder and get some insight on drum building. Your videos are so inspiring. Keep up the great work. Good health and blessings to you.
👊🫡🥁
Nice job, the walnut looks great, the diecast hoops were a plus. Sounds great cranked up.
✊
Great project. Looks really good. Please do an update after cutting the snare beds deeper. I think this will solve a lot of your issues.
🫡
You should look at the bearing edges of one of your favorite snares back there, and mimic that.
An obvious place to look for inspiration and concepts on beds, but also not as easy as looking at something and replicating, still a lot of technique with hand cut beds. I think that’s the bigger thing I’m working on,
Beautiful drum, I think you have a keeper. Let us know if you make any changes. There’s nothing wrong with learning as you go.
It’s on a long term loan to a friend for now
I was really curious to hear the walnut. In my experience, walnut is where pleasing resonance goes to die. It looks fantastic, but often sounds like concrete. After hearing your build, I'm now curious as to the effect stamped hoops and thin heads would make. Since normal playing isn't going to produce particularly pleasing resonance from the shell, that drum seems to need a head/hoop combination that relies on the interplay of head resonance. Note the "low tuning" sound in this video. The "resonance" chokes up a few milliseconds post strike. That suggests to me that the energy delivery to the shell is well below the actual energy required to cause the shell to "ring", or resonate properly... which suggests a standing wave forming within the drum...that standing wave (if that is actually the case ) will produce a "hit-&/or" miss set of frequencies that may match the resonant frequencies (prime and harmonic) of the heads. Cast hoops will further limit the resonant frequencies of the heads, which is why stamped hoops may help, since they produce a more random set of resonant sectors across the heads. As to snare beds... your setup actually sounds pretty good. While it may not be a popular opinion, I prefer an attenuated response from snares in live band performance because of the delay effect. A quick and quickly dissipating snare response just sounds better to me live (R&B, Blues, Rock). Thanks for doing this video! You did a great job!
Concrete is a good descriptor for this drum. It’s not bad, just not my thing.
Medium and high tuning sounds incredible. Nice Job. I find for lower tuning you might consider a different bearing edge (baseball bat or hybrid) for the batter side. Head choice makes a huge difference as well. Don't give up on this drum it just needs some tweaking. I have a snare bed template for my router, highly suggest it.
I've thought about a flush cut bit with bed template, where did you get yours from, or it is a jig?
Through building many shells of different 12:02 have determined that walnut is not a great wood for drums. I find its tuning range is narrow and favors lower tunings and snares like higher tension.
I’ve played some walnut drums I absolutely love, but its hardness probably affects the way you need to build it or tune in order to get the most out of it.
That snare looks beautiful!! Great video, inspiring myself to try something like this
You should!
Snare beds - had never even heard of such a thing, in over 30 years of monkeying around with drums. But that was 30 years playing, not fixing up or customising so I'm extremely glad you mentioned this thingy as I'm doing my first custom mess around.
Yeah, they’re important.
Snare looks great.
Definitely sand the bearing edges lower.
Pick your favorite snare, remove & compare. Enjoyed the video.
That's been my process thus far. Just have heard from a number of drum builders how modern heads don't require the same depths of beds as older vintage drums tend to have.
I really liked the lowest tuning! Almost sounded gated. Th tree highest tuning was the best though. Great work Mike
Thanks!
thank you for sharing your experiences of building your own drums with all of us
I always find your videos very good and they always convey a lot of knowledge. After I tried to improve a wooden snare myself, I had the same results as you when listening: that the drum was not sensitive enough and I also suspect that I did not achieve good enough results with the snare bed. So it would be interesting if you sent your drum to a professional drum maker who would replace the support edge and then you could make another video of how it sounds afterwards and how the drum responds
Yeah, that's a cool idea, but Im also committed to tackling this skill of cutting quality beds.
@@malonedrum I am confident that you will also show us this experience via video and I am looking forward to seeing how you will make the drum sound as you wish
good luck!
High Tuning sounds great, nice job!
Thanks!
Mike, i think you did a fantastic job.From my past experiences, when i ran across a drum that i had issues when tunning, it always seemed to be either they snare wires , or the way the smare bed was cut., example being, Dw collector snare drums., could never figure out why i couldnt get the wood ones to sound how i wanted, DCP, had the same problem, they had DW , change there formula on cutting the snare bed. Presto!!!!! It changed everything
!!!!
Hopefully that'll be cure for this one being a drum I can love.
Funny, the low tuning was my favorite of all of the tunings you did. It had almost an Alex Van Halen vibe. The higher tunings all sounded a bit too thin to me.
Ahh, cool call out. Hot for teacher cover incoming I guess
Great stuff! I'm loving your videos. I am a drum restoration enthusiast and would love to see a whole video explaining the tools you use for restoration. Thank you!
Interesting, maybe
I think a deeper shell will give your low tunings a better sound. Looks great and i thought it sounded really good. Keep going mate!
Potentially, I was just eager to try a shallower drum
Your passion for the drums is so dang inspirational that Ima gonna borrow some from ya 😊Thanks Mike . 🥁🥁🥁😎
Thanks
Beautiful drum. It’s actually a nice sounding drum. It had a crazy “wong” overtone tuned low. But overall for about $50, you won!!!
Exactly.
Great drum build man! I thought the same about the low tuning.
Appreciate it!
Awesome job! It would be interesting to put the same hardware and heads on a different shell to see how different it is
There’s a number of demos of that with free floating shells. Very easy to do there
Mike, excellent job, try it w triple flange, might change things a bit.
Good idea
Beautiful! Medium and high is good. Low tuning needs work. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks
Great bild Mike ! but sound on snare is most in bottom head,so try to put tension on bottom head to be like table top,super tight and then see results and adjust snares with tension screw.cheers !
The bottom head is very tight, I think it's more the beds unfortunately.
@@malonedrum when you think its tight make one more turn all lugs :D
I liked the high muffled the best. Nice looking drum.
It was fun to experiment with tuning.
BROOOOO YOU gotta do a video on your threading grid!! F
Ha, I just bought that at my local hardware store. It was expensive, but a total lifesaver for figuring that stuff out.
Here it is: www.amazon.com/Thread-Measuring-Vertical-Checker-Metric/dp/B071HTKL2T?mcid=d077b95eb2133c2d83a118a1f8f58e57&hvadid=693071814670&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10095162357214681670&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019410&hvtargid=pla-1599800458221&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=malonedrum02-20&linkId=6f119ca65b79611a682b0a802a62df04&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Sei un grande / you re awesome 🇮🇹
Thank you!
Great job! Nice, FAT tone!!! Love it!
I’ll take it
Mike, maybe try triple flanged hoops? I'm not a fan of die cast hoops on a snare drum (at least that's what it looks like you're using). The triple flanged hoops will be a little less staunch and may give you what you're looking for in the lower tuning region. But I must say that the result of your build is very nice. I could never cut my own bearing edges, let alone a snare bed. So: Kudos.
Thanks for checking it out.
I love diecast hoops on snares, though I buy the cheap Amazon ones 😬 I need to see what dfd are getting for them, though I vaguely remember checking, and I think they were pricey.
Another fine job by you, 8:27 Mike. Well one and merry Christmas to you and your loved ones.❤️🙏🏻🎄🎅
Thanks, you too!
beautiful snare! Great build. It definitely sounds best in the higher tuning ranges. In my opinion it may sound better with a more deep snare bed, but I know it's tricky to dial in. I think it would help with the snare response. Other factor might be tuning. The hardware looks decend tho. Anyway, great job :)
Interesting, most of the drum builders I’ve talked to have said they think deep beds aren’t as important as they used to be with modern heads. I’m still navigating it on my own before I can form an opinion.
The medium tuning to me sounds the best. Of course, this is a matter of opinion as I like the midrange "fat" sound. And yes, it's hard to find a snare that has a variety of tuning capabilities.
Range is the true test of a great drum,
dude!!! I love this 👏
Thanks Brutha!
That high tuning... Sweet as chocolate from Hughes'.
🤣👊
maybe try some 10 lug triple flanged on it. a shell that shallow with diecast hoops is bound to do odd things. also, a trick for tension rods that are too long, on the snare side use a 'no collar' snare side head. my go to is a remo ambassador no collar. that thing is like ketchup it goes on everything. nice build man.
Nice tip, no collard heads could be a lifesaver.
You could save time and mess using a straight sharp blade and blading the finish wiping off the rim of beads. Repeat three times for a glass finish
The finish is much thinner than a spray can
Ooooh sounds sweet!
Hmmm…
@@malonedrum Mike sorry I was posting on my phone... I restored a 10m yacht, all the interior in marine ply. I would have used 3x the epoxy, ended up with a mess if I tried to brush it on.
You can find razor sharp stainless applicators (like those in car body repair) apply some varnish to 30% and then scrape and spread the finish flat. It helps lay the grain flat too and it takes 3 - 4 coats.
Because there is no build up or brush marks to speak of, each coat flattens out for the next, achieving a near glass finish. You can matt it with a scuff if you don't want the mirror. Naturally, this only works on flat surfaces, which is what the face of a cylinder is.
I hate overspray, covered my son's car in a mist of 2k once, yeah I've got spray guns, wasn't going to make that mistake again!
For the love of drums :)
For lower tuning, try cranking the hell out of the bottom head. It makes quite a difference. Awesome video though! I found the commentary very helpful.
Yeah, I typically crank my bottom head for any tuning, actually feel like I need to open up my world to lower bottom head tunings
Stone Custom Drums is in my city in fort Wayne! Bernie is the dude
Is he still around and active? Haven't seen him at the drum show since this one in 2021.
@malonedrum I'm not too sure I've been out of the loop since I had my kids
Great looking snare drum Mike, those tube lugs look nice. Ali? I had the same low tuning issue with one I built. I recut the bearing edges to a full 45 degree to the outside of the shell and then sanded on the flat plate to 240, fine sanded a radius to 400 grit. Sounded better, Great job.
Cool tip!
I have used a flat top bearing edge myself to limit ring slightly, and it works! Leave a 2mm flat spot on the apex of the edge all the eat around, especially on batter. I sand flat the spot as well but I go to 400 then 1500 grit on the bearing edges so they are like glass. I then add bees wax on the edges where heads touch, lube tension rods using white lithium grease, and always add Hendrix plastic sleeved washers. All this makes tuning smooth as butter. It also helps for tuning in very small increments. Try these easy ideas, you will not regret it.
Well done !!!
Thanks
0:20 is that John Goode?
Ha, no. It’s the owner and builder of Stone Drums.
Hi. First of all, nice video. Second, i would say the opposite happened to me: I liked the low tuning more than the high tuning, but that's preference. About why it doesn't sound that high end, like you said, it could be a lot of thing. If i have to bet in something, i will say it's the shell. There's a reason why it was so cheap because from here, you did everything right in that built. It would be nice see another one. Until next video.
Adiós.
🫡🥁
I agree with you on the tuning, at low tuning the snares were too “bouncy”, not making contact with the head at all times. Also the last demo sounds like the groove of Bill Withers’ “Use Me”. If so I could see why, that song to me sounds like it would be in The Pocket Kings’ repertoire.
Very much in our repertoire :)
It looks beautiful! But sounds choked to me. I would try triple flange hoops before making any alterations.
🫡
You need to see Jeff Kirsch's video about lug gaskets. Terrible for the shell over time, and it gives the tone a twang.
I've seen Jeff's videos, and have tons of respect for work and thoughts on drum construction. Although, I do agree with him on ribber gaskets, I think the rigid nylon gasket like I used here help avoid over tightening and adding too much friction to the shell. In this case, I think it's ok and not causing damage, but I agree it reduces the vibration from the shell.
It would be an interesting experiment to remove the lug screws from the shell and rotate them 180 degrees so they "free float". All those lugs screwed to the shell have to dampen the shell resonance.
That's an interesting idea. I think there's more to it than that to get a good evenly tuned free floater. What you're saying would create more of a single tension drum sound.
Stuff screwed to the shell will not dampen it that much, experiment and see for yourself
maybe a roundover on the outside of the bearing edge with a 45 on the inside and a deeper snare bed would get you where you need to be? I have a question. Why did you wait until after you did the finish to cut the edges and drill the holes? I like to do all that before finish a drum unless the finish is a wrap. That way you can do all your layout lines lightly directly on the shell and save yourself a lot of time with masking. Plus I like to have finish on the edges and in the holes to better seal the shell. Shell looked great, and I agree that it didn't sound that good in the lower tuning.
I’m not typically a fan of round overs on a snare until it’s maybe 6” deep, but sure that could fun to try.
I like to finish first so I don’t have to be as cautious of finish getting through holes and edges while doing it. To me it just makes sense to get the messy portion done before finishing those layout steps
Nice Drum!
Thanks, I had fun putting it together!
Porting wood snares makes a huge difference
Never been a fan of the larger OCDP like ports, but usually just an air vent, especially over none.
@@malonedrumno but adding a few smaller holes around the perimeter can help. I did this but made vents I could add small deco screws to close if I wanted and this really helped my drum build. It was a last resort for me on a Keller very thin 6” maple shell I never could get to sound really good.
The takeaway I got from this is that you have a very keen discernment of what sounds "hi end" or not. Is that based on it's versatility more or sound quality? Or is there one snare that is so great that is your comparative basis?
Great points
Good Job! I like the high tuning 👍, I also don't like 10 lug snares.
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I'll be glad to take it off your hands, mate!
Already off with a friend for now
Nice build!! Can i ask what type of polyurethane spray brand you used?
Minwax or Varathane
Hey Mike! Love the video. I was wondering if you thought this was a good spend for those looking to get into custom drums and if you thought a whole kit would be a good idea/how I could get the shells for it? Thanks.
If you're just starting out, I recommend experimenting around with some cheap orphan drums before really getting into buying new shells and nice parts. You'll cut your teeth on low investment/loss equipment and then when you go to work on quality materials you'll learn how much easier it is to do.
@ I’ll look into some orphan drums, thanks!
Sounds great mate, any reason why you don't cut edges before painting?
I find not using the rubber gaskets opens the drum up a heap, like a big difference.
Love the videos.
If I did finishing after, I’d need to be a lot more careful with spilling on the edges.
I think these gaskets were a nylon harder material so less absorption of the vibration of shell, I think.
@@malonedrum Makes sense mate.
Yes the harder gasket are definitely a lot better.
Thanks for the reply.
Maybe a round over edge would have been interested.Walnut is warm and cuts.This drum not really.Feel the die cast hoops are not necessary and maybe shell should have been left deeper .Just a thougjt. 12:34
Maybe, but on snares I generally don’t like the round over, less nuance
Beautiful! Would you recommend that snare throw off from ali? I have Sonor 3005 and it's "native" throw off are sloppy
Snare throw has been great
Nice work! Considering the thickness of the shell AND the diecast hoops, I am not surprised that this is a drum that needs to be cranked for the best overall sound. The Double 45's are a good choice for a thick shell. Roundovers would have choke the head. Too much shell mass, plus too much head-to-shell contact = Dead Zone.
Lots of calls in the comments for round overs, but Im with you.
@@malonedrum People who call for roundovers on a thick shell do not understand the physics of drums. Thick, mass-y shells would require a ton of energy to get them to resonate. The increased head-to-shell contact of roundovers would just rob that resonate energy. As a result, thick-shell drums are usually "head tone" drums. Not a bad thing, just a different flavor.
"Roundover edges" has become a buzz phrase. 🙄
That drum sounds great high, but nasty overtones in lower tunings. Maybe try different heads and play with the snare side tuning.
What sort of sale was it that you got a second hand shell?
It’s a shell I picked up from the Chicago drum show in 2021, just didn’t make the cut for his drum companies he works with.
i think the sound was like that because of the finishing that u use
try again qiuth oil base finish
or nitrocesuloso on the outside and oil in the inside or just try it with out finish
I’m not sure I can try it again with no finish lol.
That’s BS. This finish probably has zero impact on sound. Every big maker coat drums with thick glossy 15 coat lacquers and they sound great.
High tuning of course
Absolutely
I would change the edges to round-overs to cut the sharpness. That's just my $0.02.
Yeah, certainly an option.
Dicast hoops dont flex so as you tune one rod it affect the whole tension a lot more that on a flanged hoop. I'd say buying a tune bot would be a great $100 invest meant for you are you can see on a screen how nuances like this happen . You might have uneven tension on those hoop and don't even know it muting the drum. it sounds very choked.
I agree it sounds choked at points, but I’m not confident it’s tuning, it feels like the shell. Walnut is so sturdy, that I think it doesn’t resonant at this thickness nearly enough as a normal shell would.
You really rushed the lug hole drilling despite all the prep you did! Lol I do the same thing.😂
Not sure I follow/agree.
I'd highly suggest a fan exhausting your spray work glad to see you had a door opened, but you need to push that shit out cause building it in a room which it will it can combust and your mask isn't a respirator either just an fyi the filters only last 40 hours when sealed in a bag 40 hours of use. Unless your working with harsh oil stuff then guys swap them daily if not after application
Good ideas, probably long overdue to get a box fan/filter set up for when I’m doing finishes.
Why didn't you just spray the shell after you've drilled all the holes and cut the edges, it's a lot easier and less risk of damage to the finish
I find it easier to spray first so that I don’t need to be as cautious about spilling paint or finish on the inside or edges.
Eh, it sounds about the same at low tuning as just about any other similarly-sized snare drum does. I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Yeah, I don’t think it’s going to change the world
if i take anything away from this, is that i actually kind of want to get that trick copy throwoff
I have some conflicting thoughts knowing that they probably aren’t respecting Tricks US patent on it, but it was impressive for very cheap.
Well, it's obvious you don't have a clue about how to work a spray can lol
Great, thanks for coming by.
I couldn't disagree with you about the sound more -- the lowest tuning was fantastic, tho I would expand the beds and put Gibraltar 40 wires on it. Totally agree about 8 vs 10 lugs, especially with as thick and heavy as that shell is. All that extra weight, even the longer lug mounting screws, all of that sucks the tone and sensitivity away. If you had used individual lug casings and an 8 lug design, again with 40 wires, I bet that drum would knock your socks off!
Either way, your video earned my subscription and the first of many thumbs up!
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