Big shout out to Pine Ridge Burners for working with us on this video! They are so helpful and full of knowledge ! Check them out and get to building your dream forge today! www.pineridgeburner.com
With the shop looking like its coming together, I hope that means we will see more frequent content being released on the channel. I just love watching this kind of stuff.
Awesome all the way around guys. Just one note: please use the correct thread seal tape/dope when piping any flammable gas such as propane. I noticed that some of the thread joints were sealed with the appropriate yellow gas-rated tape and the rest appeared to use the standard white teflon tape. While teflon and PTFE are awesome for their intended purposes they fall a little short for gas piping as the petroleum based propane could eventually eat through or gum up the tape enough to allow leaks to develop. No need to state the obvious but a gas leak next to a hot forge would be a bad day for all. There are several good options for tape, I recommend a combination of yellow thread seal tape coupled with a gas-rated pipe "dope" so as to maximize the seals and to make future disassembly easier. Thanks for the content.
Awesome forge guys!! To everyone else, please read all the warnings and instructions for the ceramic wool before you decide on how you want to handle it. In the end it's your decision what you do, but try to make it an informed decision.
I love how you discourage people from trying something on their own, and to buy from your sponsor instead. That's how you encourage creativity, learning, true understanding of the craft.
This is exactly how I built my ribbon burner forge. Minus the buying the completed kit from pineridge blowers. Kinda wish I had the cash to though they look really good ... need to finish my doors though.
I want you guys to know that you're the best and I can't wait to start blacksmithing. This channel has been so helpful in giving me ideas on where to start and I really appreciate it.
Curious what the benefit of installing the burner at an off center angle instead of directly above to the bottom of the forge cylinder where the materials to be heated will naturally settle?
How dose the refractory hold up to cracking and chipping with the K-wool underneath? Seems like it would be like pouring a concrete slab on top of a marshmallow. I have worked with both materials professionally for the past 11years, building and retrofitting various power plant components, and have never seen this attempted. I'm truly curious as to the durability of the insulation. Because if it works well, its a lot better solution for the home-gamer than high temp zinc paint systems that are traditionally used.
Have you ever tried itc-100 to coat the inside of the forge? I used a similar coating and with two layers of kaowool I was able to get to forge welding temperatures.
Thats what Matt said, but coming from MAN AT ARMS sometimes we forge some large and odd shaped pieces and its nice to have the slot not just a square .
I am curious why you used 1" of kaowool as opposed to 2"? I have heard and read online that you want to use 2" or more for optimum results. What are your thoughts?
So i am going to take a wild guess and say that your logo is meant to look like weyland yutani corps logo. Awesome, If i still lived in Baltimore i would love to watch you guys work.
1st imho is savings in fuel. Inlet psi is lower 1-3 psi vs 18- 25 psi for atmospheric burner. So one uses less gas for the forge. 2 more wide spread heat cone. So less of a blast spot or spots in the forge and on the work piece. 3 in many instances higher forge temps can be maintained more steadily imho. 4 less noise from the burner ie not so much a jet nosel effect from sucking in ambient air and gas mixing and brushing thru the intake orifice. Imho. 5 burner last longer as only the refractory is flame kissed as opposed to the ambient air system actually being in the forge. Now those are in my opinion the benefits of a ribbon burner in brief. So the down sides now. 1st higher initial cost for the burner. Unless you cust and cast your own. 2 higher cost due to the need for a blower system and gas valves and piping 3 a good lining is a must kaowool, castable refractory and HT100 is pretty good a must. However done right it will last a decade or more b4 replacing the castable. So all in all for the 1st year of medium work load cost will be coming close to equaling out By the end of the forges lining life you should be money ahead in fuel savings and redlining savings. Again imho. 🙏 be blessed now Crawford out 🧙♂️
@@danielcrawford7315 Isn't the gas oriface diameter larger on a forced air vs an atmospheric burner? So does a forced air really use less gas even though it is run at a lower psi? Can anybody speak from experience on this subject. I am debating on blown vs atmospheric for my forge.
hey guys, not trying to be a troll, but white teflon tape is only rated for water connections, not gas connections, you should really be useing the yellow teflon tape for this
IIRC from my studies in building- and energyengineering the yellow is required so that even if the steel pipe isn't yellow a technician can stop before he anglegrinds on the wrong pipe. The properties of the tape are exactly the same.
Yellow tape is a thicker form of low density PTFE tape, white tape is thinner, and pink is high density PTFE tape. The thicker tape should be more likely to assure there’s no gas leak. Connections should still be tested for leaks though of course. Pink is just to make it easier to unscrew the pipe later. There’s really nothing inherently different about them if you use them right. Personally I only use pipe dope.
*Hi guys!* You asked people to give you suggestions as to what to forge next that would not only challenge you and all your skills but also be an incredible and highly collectible item. Here's what I think would cover all those basis's, Prince Thor's War Axe that he used before he was worthy of Mjolnir and also the weapon he always returned to when found unworthy of Mjolnir in a few original story lines in Marvel Universe Comics. The Axe is named *"Jarnbjorn"* also made out of Uru metal in the comic books but with no worthy clause, it's one of Thor's mightiest weapons he ever used before Mjolnir and was induced with great powers only outmatched by Mjolnir, Stormbreaker, Gungnir the King Odin's spear and the OdinSword named "Ragnarok". The challenge of building such and Axe would/should be because it should be forged out of Titanium (only) with a wooden handle and sized to the original size in the comics or as closest as possible. There shouldn't be a huge discrepancy in life size vs the comic book size or have a "that's close enough" mentality/possibility in order to cut corners or make it easier to build. I have looked everywhere and yet no forgeries has built this battle Axe yet. So it would be a first, if you would so choose to build it. I truly believe that this Axe should absolutely be built out of Titanium to give it the respect it warrants with all the steps required to make it the strongest by going through the complete steps required from the normalization process cycles, the heat/hardening quench phase and up to the tempered full process, since the properties of this metal is, it's the strongest metal from weight to strength/hardness ratio, Titanium is the only metal that should be considered. I've seen smaller axes and hammers built out of Titanium and from what I've seen, no one has even come close to building such a weapon. That's my suggestion, what do you think? Full disclosure... I also suggested this build to "Alec Steele" with no replies from my email to giving him the exact message I just wrote to you (Yeah it's a copy/paste message, except for the "full disclosure" part and I didn't tell Alec Steele that I also suggested this Axe to you). Whoever does it, has to know that this build would be a multiple youtube video build that would attract possibly millions of viewers for each video, which is a win/win situation for you guys in that department. Also, at the end of this build, being a one of a kind since made out of Titanium, this would end up being a highly sought after Thor collectible item that should fetch a good price since there's so many high end Thor collectors out there. And this Axe being a one of a kind collectible item since there's no one yet that has undertaken this build of Thor's battle Axe *"Jarnbjorn"* in any kind of steel, so if you built it and built it out of Titanium, this Axe could end up in a biding war from high end anything Thor collectors.
I been checking online watching videos and everyone says something different. Yours looks like 8 in burner with 4-5 inch on Both sides but others say leave an inch or 2 in bother sides. Is it the pine ridge Burner that lets you do that? You guys don’t answer these but I’m tired of reading forms I asked pine ridge guess I’ll find out.
Cylinders have less surface area for a given volume which gives you a larger more efficient forge while using less of the moderately costly insulation. A round inside to your forge also allows for a more even temperature in the forge.
Boy you guys sure make some purdy Fire an' Steel pictures! Back in the day, when Pine Ridge was no more than a gleam in it's father's eye, they had a saying in film schools, "Movies must MOVE!" More RUclips producers should figure this out. "If the content is moving, keep the camera still; if the content is still, keep the camera moving. If both must be still move the POV Shot/Reverse Shot varying the lengths of the cuts; if both must be moving syncopate the movements between one another." You have this down, so pat yourselves on the back. Now, the next factor is the audio track. Sound consistency is the big hurdle. Matt's voice went from too treble to too bass. His natural speaking voice is kind of a reedy tenor. This is always a bitch to mike, particularly in sound environments that are excessively live, like most shops. Most of the slicker blacksmith videos get around this with voiceover, which I 'm sure you got very tired of in the past. So did I. But realtime mikeing is a realtime problem. In voiceover sound is information, too much voiceover means sharing too much information. In realtime sound is movement. That's why you have to be either speaking and not working or working and not speaking. Otherwise the movements clash. I don't know what post production resources you have to mix and modify realtime sound but I'd say that's the next videographer's hurdle for you. You are doing splendidly with music, particularly in the use of syncopating beats and baselines. RUclips is rich in these resources and I wish more producers were using them as well as you do. This is particularly the case in two areas: slo-mo and the power hammer shooting. Slo-mo has to be watched like a hawk or it slips over into gimmickry. But in the shop context slo-mo gives you far more lucid control of moving objects, coordinating the speed of processes that are difficult to shoot straight because they are either too fast or too slow for realtime treatment. You are making excellent use of the music to keep slo-mo as technique from overpowering what objects in motion the slo-mo is being used for. A music beat that is either a little faster or slower than the slo-mo itself is one the best tools for this. Good job. Most shots of power hammer work fail to convey the delicacy that the technique is capable of. You are doing excellently here. Having music of multiple beats to match to the fine variations in motions, jumping from one on-beat motion to a different on beat motion, then syncopating the motions back and forth across the beats is something you're getting really, really slick with. Have fun!
Karmakshanti Vyapini thanks man! We are still figuring out some of the audio stuff. It will only get better. Most of this video was shot in a rush, but I do have some big projects coming soon where I cut no corners. I will be interested in hearing your opinions on some of those videos. Thanks for you thought out comment! I will look into your suggestions!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Big shout out to Pine Ridge Burners for working with us on this video! They are so helpful and full of knowledge ! Check them out and get to building your dream forge today! www.pineridgeburner.com
Ilya you knucklehead!!!! Use your grinder guard!!!! Or don't you care about your body not being shredded by a grinder disk ???
Ilya's a professional and a Forged in Fire champion he can do what he wants (probably) XD
Why not make the forge with all castable refractory and not with the kaowool?
I died at the addidas power hammer.
True Slav style xD
With the shop looking like its coming together, I hope that means we will see more frequent content being released on the channel. I just love watching this kind of stuff.
"The most important part of a forge is the front door" take notes Alec
I am convinced that Alec has the doors made, he is just letting the gag continue as long as possible.
:-)
A comment I was going to post :D
We all had the same thought it seems lol
Yeah that was my thought too. That forge looks like just about anything can be made in it
Best part, forging that beautiful hinge...
14:40 fast pace cement patting is now my favorite thing
Shouldn't you be wearing a respirator when working with K wool?
Yeah my thoughts exactly
@@markadams1165 honestly asking for my own benefit because I don't know. I've seen both.
It is recommended to work with a respirator and gloves, since koa wool is a bunch of micro fibers
Also in the line of the cutoff wheel with no guard.. also welding bare handed... Slav safety squints must be enough
Do as we say, not as we do! Always use proper safety gear!
Bugles can now be made to order!) Mechanical hammer pleased with the inscription "Do not die" and three Adidas stripes!) Definitely like!
Awesome all the way around guys. Just one note: please use the correct thread seal tape/dope when piping any flammable gas such as propane. I noticed that some of the thread joints were sealed with the appropriate yellow gas-rated tape and the rest appeared to use the standard white teflon tape. While teflon and PTFE are awesome for their intended purposes they fall a little short for gas piping as the petroleum based propane could eventually eat through or gum up the tape enough to allow leaks to develop. No need to state the obvious but a gas leak next to a hot forge would be a bad day for all. There are several good options for tape, I recommend a combination of yellow thread seal tape coupled with a gas-rated pipe "dope" so as to maximize the seals and to make future disassembly easier. Thanks for the content.
Awesome forge guys!!
To everyone else, please read all the warnings and instructions for the ceramic wool before you decide on how you want to handle it. In the end it's your decision what you do, but try to make it an informed decision.
Definitely a material that needs to be treated with respect.
Eh, what's a little mesothelioma?
I like the tip on welding on the screws to hold the insulation. Nice forge! Good job guys!
I love how you discourage people from trying something on their own, and to buy from your sponsor instead. That's how you encourage creativity, learning, true understanding of the craft.
Wow love that forge one day I would like to go to a ribbon burner forge. Well done. Hope to see more use of this forge.
Of all the forge,s yet 10/10
You guys, are truly artists! Looking forward for more content.
What an epic forge I need to build this. It would be my forever forge.
I use that kawool stuff in boilers all the time. New chamber kits come with it. So it handles the heat from burning fuel oil well.
Forging by jet engine damn, looking good. Cant wait to see all the things you make with it.
Nice! It’s power hammer time! I’ve never seen a ribbon burner. Very cool. Thanks for the video
Very glad you guys are speeding up the content released
21:53 The most slav power hammer I've ever seen
You mean Slavhammer?
The music is great too!
Nice welding gloves 😂
Love that star trek hoodie
Cool that makes me want to make one to go with my coal forge. Now make the sword of Goujian
What type of refractory casting cement did you use?
Addidas stripes on your powerhammer? DAVAI ILYA!
This is exactly how I built my ribbon burner forge. Minus the buying the completed kit from pineridge blowers. Kinda wish I had the cash to though they look really good ... need to finish my doors though.
this is going to be my first forge
I want you guys to know that you're the best and I can't wait to start blacksmithing. This channel has been so helpful in giving me ideas on where to start and I really appreciate it.
Curious what the benefit of installing the burner at an off center angle instead of directly above to the bottom of the forge cylinder where the materials to be heated will naturally settle?
Inside superheated air will swirl, making for more consistent temps.
Yeah, i think the air flow is less caotic (and therefore more homogeneous) if you force it to vortex in one direction
I see. That make a lot of sense. Thanks.
I laughed when I seen him wear a respirator when using the angle grinder and nothing when cutting the wool.... I would have done the exact opposite 😂
Well done gent’s!!! I can’t wait to step up my forge like yours!👍🏻❤️
Happy Holidays!!
I may have to borrow some of your methods to upgrade my forge.
Compressing the wholl by packing cement over it wont diminish its insulating properties?
Wish you out lengths of the plumbing are those 6-12 in for the air
Yes!!! Why am I just now finding this channel?
Sweet hinges!
15:30 hey I use that bowl for making muffins !
GREAT build! Really enjoyed watching just couldn't believe that there was no hearing protection used at anytime.
I checked after seeing your comment - they wore earplugs.
Thanks, as a retired welder we didn't ever wear any kind of ear protection and I regret it.
I love how the music sounds like an 80s movie. 😎
Gooooooooood
Can you explain us the difference between the 2 power hammers types that you are using one day?
Great job guys 😎
очень круто , спасибо вам ребята ! very cool, thank you guys !
How dose the refractory hold up to cracking and chipping with the K-wool underneath? Seems like it would be like pouring a concrete slab on top of a marshmallow. I have worked with both materials professionally for the past 11years, building and retrofitting various power plant components, and have never seen this attempted. I'm truly curious as to the durability of the insulation. Because if it works well, its a lot better solution for the home-gamer than high temp zinc paint systems that are traditionally used.
Isn't it standard practice to use a hardener for kaowool to prevent the "concrete on marshmallow" effect?
Nicely done, love it.
Very cool
What did you guys use for the floor, just a hard brick shaped to the contour of the forge? Great video btw
I like it I'm a beginner blacksmith and would love to have something of such high quality
What was the refractory and where did you purchase it?
Matt *has cool new beard*
comments section: ...
forge looks cool too :D.
I have about 10 bags of the same monolithic. What was the water to refractory ratio you used?
Any update on Skalchion? We are all waiting for it. Thank you!
Вариант горелки интересный👍💥⚒️
Have you ever tried itc-100 to coat the inside of the forge? I used a similar coating and with two layers of kaowool I was able to get to forge welding temperatures.
Awesome!
that works. what sort of tank is that, is it a copper water heater
now i watch the video i see now its not, so what was it?
The front hole only needed a square cut out not a rectangle seeing the inner forge refractory hurts my ocd lol 👌🏽👌🏽 nice big forge
Thats what Matt said, but coming from MAN AT ARMS sometimes we forge some large and odd shaped pieces and its nice to have the slot not just a square .
Not sure tapping with a hammer sufficient, I think using a sawzall with blade removed would work awsome for getting bubbles out.
That would do the trick as well but 3+ years later and the forge is still running strong
I am curious why you used 1" of kaowool as opposed to 2"? I have heard and read online that you want to use 2" or more for optimum results. What are your thoughts?
that works well also. We doubled up the 1" in spots.
How many cutting wheels did it take and what brand and type? Also what kind of tank is that? Propane?
that phat 80's beat tho
is that 1 inch kao or 2 in?
Notification on power hammer: Don't die.
Me: OK. 😭
So i am going to take a wild guess and say that your logo is meant to look like weyland yutani corps logo. Awesome, If i still lived in Baltimore i would love to watch you guys work.
not to be a safety sally here but it always makes me wince when i see someone grinding with their face directly in line with the wheel.
What is a good size for a startup forge using propane and how much would it cost to make?
What kind of tank did you use? What would you recommend, and what are the dimensions on this?
I missed it, what did this tank start life as, a water heater?
Heron Mark Sword-Wheel of Time
Is that the GH or LP burner you are using? If it’s the larger GH will the LP still get hot enough to forge weld?
rly cool stuff and also nice tutorial.
Hey stop pulling my leg here! That's not a forge that's a housing for a dragon you're hiding from everyone..
Tracer : I'll bet you watch "Shadiversity"
are you guys going to continue making stuff on Man art arms and continue doing this channel as well?
Jon Rybicki we will be doing big full builds on this channel!
my first thought when ilya was making the door handles was is he making an alice in wonderland themed spear? like the ones from the red queens army
Do you have to special order refractory cement or can you get it at places like Home Depot?
Yes you have to special order the refractory cement. I used Mizzou to make my burner and to line my forge.
Hey I wanna get started forging but my family doesnt have alot of money so I have a question in tempering process is car oil good?
It's probably better to use vegetable or canola oil. It's safer to use and actually works better.
@@rmunroe102582 thanks
What are the advantages of a ribbon forge over a atmospheric forge?
1st imho is savings in fuel. Inlet psi is lower 1-3 psi vs 18- 25 psi for atmospheric burner. So one uses less gas for the forge.
2 more wide spread heat cone. So less of a blast spot or spots in the forge and on the work piece.
3 in many instances higher forge temps can be maintained more steadily imho.
4 less noise from the burner ie not so much a jet nosel effect from sucking in ambient air and gas mixing and brushing thru the intake orifice. Imho.
5 burner last longer as only the refractory is flame kissed as opposed to the ambient air system actually being in the forge.
Now those are in my opinion the benefits of a ribbon burner in brief.
So the down sides now.
1st higher initial cost for the burner. Unless you cust and cast your own.
2 higher cost due to the need for a blower system and gas valves and piping
3 a good lining is a must kaowool, castable refractory and HT100 is pretty good a must. However done right it will last a decade or more b4 replacing the castable.
So all in all for the 1st year of medium work load cost will be coming close to equaling out
By the end of the forges lining life you should be money ahead in fuel savings and redlining savings. Again imho.
🙏 be blessed now
Crawford out 🧙♂️
@@danielcrawford7315 Isn't the gas oriface diameter larger on a forced air vs an atmospheric burner? So does a forced air really use less gas even though it is run at a lower psi? Can anybody speak from experience on this subject. I am debating on blown vs atmospheric for my forge.
I hope you guys one day do a collab with Alec Steele. My two favorite blacksmithing channels together would be glorious
Awesome forge. Getting a ribbon burner as soon as I get my bonus. LOL nice Adidas stripes. Your Russianness is showing proudly.
hey guys, not trying to be a troll, but white teflon tape is only rated for water connections, not gas connections, you should really be useing the yellow teflon tape for this
IIRC from my studies in building- and energyengineering the yellow is required so that even if the steel pipe isn't yellow a technician can stop before he anglegrinds on the wrong pipe. The properties of the tape are exactly the same.
Yellow tape is a thicker form of low density PTFE tape, white tape is thinner, and pink is high density PTFE tape.
The thicker tape should be more likely to assure there’s no gas leak. Connections should still be tested for leaks though of course.
Pink is just to make it easier to unscrew the pipe later.
There’s really nothing inherently different about them if you use them right.
Personally I only use pipe dope.
Second on the if it's gas it gets pipe dope
@@StopTryingSoHard holyshit, why the hell nobody taught me that in school. thank for sharing your knowledge
An experienced and smart person would know that you mush wear a mask when working with with kaowool
Dont even pretend to act like your more experienced and skilled than him dudr lol
@@TheFalloutization haha dont need to pretend I am a fulltime blacksmith/Bladesmith and very successful might i add
@@mickandkez sounds like bullshit
@@mickandkez might be a full time smith, but it is highly unlikely you are more experienced than him
*Hi guys!*
You asked people to give you suggestions as to what to forge next that would not only challenge you and all your skills but also be an incredible and highly collectible item. Here's what I think would cover all those basis's, Prince Thor's War Axe that he used before he was worthy of Mjolnir and also the weapon he always returned to when found unworthy of Mjolnir in a few original story lines in Marvel Universe Comics.
The Axe is named *"Jarnbjorn"* also made out of Uru metal in the comic books but with no worthy clause, it's one of Thor's mightiest weapons he ever used before Mjolnir and was induced with great powers only outmatched by Mjolnir, Stormbreaker, Gungnir the King Odin's spear and the OdinSword named "Ragnarok".
The challenge of building such and Axe would/should be because it should be forged out of Titanium (only) with a wooden handle and sized to the original size in the comics or as closest as possible. There shouldn't be a huge discrepancy in life size vs the comic book size or have a "that's close enough" mentality/possibility in order to cut corners or make it easier to build. I have looked everywhere and yet no forgeries has built this battle Axe yet. So it would be a first, if you would so choose to build it. I truly believe that this Axe should absolutely be built out of Titanium to give it the respect it warrants with all the steps required to make it the strongest by going through the complete steps required from the normalization process cycles, the heat/hardening quench phase and up to the tempered full process, since the properties of this metal is, it's the strongest metal from weight to strength/hardness ratio, Titanium is the only metal that should be considered. I've seen smaller axes and hammers built out of Titanium and from what I've seen, no one has even come close to building such a weapon. That's my suggestion, what do you think?
Full disclosure...
I also suggested this build to "Alec Steele" with no replies from my email to giving him the exact message I just wrote to you (Yeah it's a copy/paste message, except for the "full disclosure" part and I didn't tell Alec Steele that I also suggested this Axe to you).
Whoever does it, has to know that this build would be a multiple youtube video build that would attract possibly millions of viewers for each video, which is a win/win situation for you guys in that department.
Also, at the end of this build, being a one of a kind since made out of Titanium, this would end up being a highly sought after Thor collectible item that should fetch a good price since there's so many high end Thor collectors out there. And this Axe being a one of a kind collectible item since there's no one yet that has undertaken this build of Thor's battle Axe *"Jarnbjorn"* in any kind of steel, so if you built it and built it out of Titanium, this Axe could end up in a biding war from high end anything Thor collectors.
Got to appreciate the tri poloski on your squat power hammer.
Неплохо получилось. Горелка вообще жесть.
I been checking online watching videos and everyone says something different. Yours looks like 8 in burner with 4-5 inch on Both sides but others say leave an inch or 2 in bother sides. Is it the pine ridge Burner that lets you do that? You guys don’t answer these but I’m tired of reading forms I asked pine ridge guess I’ll find out.
What are the costs of presentet set up, botch witch purchase and exploitation?
Can you tell @alecsteele to get doors for his forge?
gj on he bladeguard and eyepro...
I love my Ribbon Burner . You will as well.
Does the shape of the forge matter a lot? I know size wise it does depending on your weapon
Cylinders have less surface area for a given volume which gives you a larger more efficient forge while using less of the moderately costly insulation. A round inside to your forge also allows for a more even temperature in the forge.
Guys, what forge size is a good size for the 12X3" ribbon burner ?
Ilya's soundtrack should be Tri Poloski
По Мэту сразу видно - женатый человек) Спасибо за ролик. Будем делать!
Why does your angle-grinder doesn't have a safety cover around the back of the cutting disc? It is scary to even look at it
Boy you guys sure make some purdy Fire an' Steel pictures! Back in the day, when Pine Ridge was no more than a gleam in it's father's eye, they had a saying in film schools, "Movies must MOVE!" More RUclips producers should figure this out. "If the content is moving, keep the camera still; if the content is still, keep the camera moving. If both must be still move the POV Shot/Reverse Shot varying the lengths of the cuts; if both must be moving syncopate the movements between one another." You have this down, so pat yourselves on the back.
Now, the next factor is the audio track. Sound consistency is the big hurdle. Matt's voice went from too treble to too bass. His natural speaking voice is kind of a reedy tenor. This is always a bitch to mike, particularly in sound environments that are excessively live, like most shops. Most of the slicker blacksmith videos get around this with voiceover, which I 'm sure you got very tired of in the past. So did I. But realtime mikeing is a realtime problem. In voiceover sound is information, too much voiceover means sharing too much information. In realtime sound is movement. That's why you have to be either speaking and not working or working and not speaking. Otherwise the movements clash. I don't know what post production resources you have to mix and modify realtime sound but I'd say that's the next videographer's hurdle for you.
You are doing splendidly with music, particularly in the use of syncopating beats and baselines. RUclips is rich in these resources and I wish more producers were using them as well as you do. This is particularly the case in two areas: slo-mo and the power hammer shooting. Slo-mo has to be watched like a hawk or it slips over into gimmickry. But in the shop context slo-mo gives you far more lucid control of moving objects, coordinating the speed of processes that are difficult to shoot straight because they are either too fast or too slow for realtime treatment. You are making excellent use of the music to keep slo-mo as technique from overpowering what objects in motion the slo-mo is being used for. A music beat that is either a little faster or slower than the slo-mo itself is one the best tools for this. Good job.
Most shots of power hammer work fail to convey the delicacy that the technique is capable of. You are doing excellently here. Having music of multiple beats to match to the fine variations in motions, jumping from one on-beat motion to a different on beat motion, then syncopating the motions back and forth across the beats is something you're getting really, really slick with. Have fun!
Karmakshanti Vyapini thanks man! We are still figuring out some of the audio stuff. It will only get better. Most of this video was shot in a rush, but I do have some big projects coming soon where I cut no corners. I will be interested in hearing your opinions on some of those videos. Thanks for you thought out comment! I will look into your suggestions!
What happened to the original shop? Did it go under or did Ilya quit to start a new shop and channel?
Safety first. You should really use a guard on that grinder. If you have ever seen on blow up and strike flesh you will never use one without again.
anyone know what blower they used?