Amazing work! Since I saw the Libra I've been also thinking about upgrading my Chrono with some smart features. Thank you so much for that Chrono board information!
This is amazing! I've been been eyeing the Gaggiuino mod, but have been intimidated. This seems like a very similar but simpler project, should be a great project to get my feet wet.
The gaggiuino mod is honestly not to bad if you have done any handy work before. It's really just a lot of connecting wires and soldering connections. All of that is well worth the end result.
agree with cavin, gaggiuino mod wasn't too bad. diy car mechanic and I found it relatively straightforward. there's also a good video guide from rsilvers. highly recommend the pcb.
Outstanding work, congrats on a very interesting project. I would love to see this going further by adding some buttons to progran all in without the app, all inside the mahine... you already have a display :)
I actually did probe it out to verify, and watched it with an oscilloscope, before hooking anything up. The microcontroller is the little 8-pin chip in the lower left of the board next to the timer pot. It's a Microchip PIC12 F1571, so I pulled up the datasheet and could figure out the power pins easily. That only left me with a few pins to check for signal. IIRC, the control signal comes out of pin 6 (maybe pin 7? don't recall). Once I saw the jumper (it is embarrassing how long it took me to notice it), I probed it to see which components went to which pins on the jumper, and what their voltages were. Didn't take very long to confirm what did what.
Wow! This is a wonderful project! I just edited the arduino code to make it run on a MH-ET Live Esp32 MiniKit. So far I got the Display working and could connect it to my phone. The Scales are next. I absolutely love your idea, I just think there is one thing to improve it: a button. I think controlling everything via one's phone is great but what if, lets say, the wife wants to use it and has no interest in using the app? Maybe a button that just starts "Setting 1" and grinds 18gr or whatever would make this thing perfect. Unfortunately my coding skills are not good enough to add that feature. :(
I actually did some reading and it seems that I have found a solution myself. I created an attachInterrupt(), which looks like this: "attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(interruptPin), manual, CHANGE)" This way "manual" is triggered when the status of the interrupt button changes. my "manual" function basically is just a copy of your "void set1CharWritten", so it changes the state to 1 and therefore triggers the scale. I don't know if that is how it is supposed to be done but it seems to work.
If you've left the scale on and the blemass value is set already, that should work. The proper way to do it would be to store the settings in an EEPROM and just update them from the phone app. Then you could turn the scale off if you wish and the setting could be used with a manual button any time you want. As it is, that button will only work after a mass setting has been obtained from the phone app via ble.
@@TechDregsThanks for the quick reply and the advice. Yeah, I did figure that out myself after a quick wave of euphoria... haha... My quick'n'dirty solution so far is that I added "target = 9;", so when pressing the button 9g is the only setting. But you are right, storing it in and reading from EEPROM might be the more elegant way. Anyhow, great project!
Amazing! Do you know what if it would be the same for a Mazzer Super Jolly grinder, since it has much older / simpler electronics : basically just an on/off switch
Hard to know for sure without opening it up. I guess worst case you could add an optoisolator relay and still make it work, but maybe not as easily as this.
Amazing dude ! im on it ! just a basic question, I don't understand how you power up the esp, it should come from the grinder but i don't understand where ? from the jumper header ?
No, haven't touched it since. Turns out, I prefer keeping my coffee sealed up and only measuring out the exact amount I use each time. That keeps it from sitting in the hopper and getting stale.
If you watch at about 1:15, I go through the connections for the board and BJT. The pins are labeled based on the names of the pins they connect to on the HX711, display, and grinder. I also cover the pins for the grinder later in the video. Wiring is as simple as "connect these pins to their corresponding pins on the other items". The only thing that isn't in there is the pinout for the HX711 to scale, but that's easily found all over the internet.
It's pretty easy to get started with. I'm sure actual coding would be far more flexible if a person really wanted a commercial app, but for proof of concept type stuff it's incredible. I'll have another video out soon showing even more of what it can do.
@@TechDregs interesting. I had not seen it before. At first I thought it was like a Streamlit type library but it's the language itself, right? How does it talk to the microcontroller?
If you tin the wires, it actually works pretty well. If stuff is super dirty, or for some of the wire I have that seems to be pretty oxidized, the flux pen comes in.
@@formbi It depends on the quality of your solder. I've had rosin lead solder with not enough just as I've had lead free with a gracious amount. Unfortunately I could never get ahold of more good lead free solder before I bought a relatively large roll of lead solder, so I'll probably be working through that for the next 10 years... I almost exclusively solder to repair audio gear, so solder wetting the first time is really important. Lots of plastics that don't like heat... I consider the lead to not be a problem since repairs keep it all out of landfill. It's not like our ears have gotten better, so any gear that was good is still good, as long as it functions.
Nice project. However, there is no need for all of this. Most home consumers are using a single-dose hopper. They weigh the beans before grinding. The result is 0.1-0.2 gram error.
Amazing work! Since I saw the Libra I've been also thinking about upgrading my Chrono with some smart features. Thank you so much for that Chrono board information!
This is amazing! I've been been eyeing the Gaggiuino mod, but have been intimidated. This seems like a very similar but simpler project, should be a great project to get my feet wet.
The gaggiuino mod is honestly not to bad if you have done any handy work before. It's really just a lot of connecting wires and soldering connections. All of that is well worth the end result.
agree with cavin, gaggiuino mod wasn't too bad. diy car mechanic and I found it relatively straightforward. there's also a good video guide from rsilvers. highly recommend the pcb.
Awesome work ! great application of the Do It Yourself spirit
Outstanding work, congrats on a very interesting project. I would love to see this going further by adding some buttons to progran all in without the app, all inside the mahine... you already have a display :)
Man, you are wild, really good work, in future I will try to do your mod! Still waiting for my gagguino parts from china)
Awesome!!! That’s next level grinder modding!!
Absolute Legend
I've wanted to do this but then recently I switched to single dosing. Still really cool and so I might try it anyway
Well done!
Hey, great vid. Curious though, how did you figure out that jumper header for the relay?
I actually did probe it out to verify, and watched it with an oscilloscope, before hooking anything up. The microcontroller is the little 8-pin chip in the lower left of the board next to the timer pot. It's a Microchip PIC12 F1571, so I pulled up the datasheet and could figure out the power pins easily. That only left me with a few pins to check for signal.
IIRC, the control signal comes out of pin 6 (maybe pin 7? don't recall). Once I saw the jumper (it is embarrassing how long it took me to notice it), I probed it to see which components went to which pins on the jumper, and what their voltages were. Didn't take very long to confirm what did what.
Wow! This is a wonderful project! I just edited the arduino code to make it run on a MH-ET Live Esp32 MiniKit. So far I got the Display working and could connect it to my phone. The Scales are next.
I absolutely love your idea, I just think there is one thing to improve it: a button.
I think controlling everything via one's phone is great but what if, lets say, the wife wants to use it and has no interest in using the app? Maybe a button that just starts "Setting 1" and grinds 18gr or whatever would make this thing perfect.
Unfortunately my coding skills are not good enough to add that feature. :(
I actually did some reading and it seems that I have found a solution myself.
I created an attachInterrupt(), which looks like this: "attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(interruptPin), manual, CHANGE)" This way "manual" is triggered when the status of the interrupt button changes. my "manual" function basically is just a copy of your "void set1CharWritten", so it changes the state to 1 and therefore triggers the scale.
I don't know if that is how it is supposed to be done but it seems to work.
If you've left the scale on and the blemass value is set already, that should work. The proper way to do it would be to store the settings in an EEPROM and just update them from the phone app. Then you could turn the scale off if you wish and the setting could be used with a manual button any time you want. As it is, that button will only work after a mass setting has been obtained from the phone app via ble.
@@TechDregsThanks for the quick reply and the advice. Yeah, I did figure that out myself after a quick wave of euphoria... haha... My quick'n'dirty solution so far is that I added "target = 9;", so when pressing the button 9g is the only setting. But you are right, storing it in and reading from EEPROM might be the more elegant way. Anyhow, great project!
Amazing! Do you know what if it would be the same for a Mazzer Super Jolly grinder, since it has much older / simpler electronics : basically just an on/off switch
Hard to know for sure without opening it up. I guess worst case you could add an optoisolator relay and still make it work, but maybe not as easily as this.
Amazing dude ! im on it ! just a basic question, I don't understand how you power up the esp, it should come from the grinder but i don't understand where ? from the jumper header ?
Yeah. At around 5:15, the 5v comes from the header pin marked with Red. Ground is White. And the signal goes to Yellow.
Thanks ! I can’t wait to make this project !
Well, he‘s grinda intelligent now 😁
You should really put this in the espresso machine!
This is interesting project. Could you make a video of MIT Android? This is an interesting one too.
I have a video where I walk through the code for this project: ruclips.net/video/0PXP28viAMw/видео.html
Hi! anymore updates or improvements on this project?
No, haven't touched it since. Turns out, I prefer keeping my coffee sealed up and only measuring out the exact amount I use each time. That keeps it from sitting in the hopper and getting stale.
could you add wiring schematic to the github to make things little more streamlined. Tx
If you watch at about 1:15, I go through the connections for the board and BJT. The pins are labeled based on the names of the pins they connect to on the HX711, display, and grinder. I also cover the pins for the grinder later in the video. Wiring is as simple as "connect these pins to their corresponding pins on the other items".
The only thing that isn't in there is the pinout for the HX711 to scale, but that's easily found all over the internet.
How do you like MIT app inventor?
It's pretty easy to get started with. I'm sure actual coding would be far more flexible if a person really wanted a commercial app, but for proof of concept type stuff it's incredible. I'll have another video out soon showing even more of what it can do.
@@TechDregs interesting. I had not seen it before. At first I thought it was like a Streamlit type library but it's the language itself, right? How does it talk to the microcontroller?
BLE (bluetooth low energy). I got through the code in more detail here: ruclips.net/video/0PXP28viAMw/видео.html
Metrikland
2:44 USE FLUX!!!
It's flux core solder. And at times I use a flux pen, which I don't always show.
@@TechDregs the flux in solder is sufficient for sticking to the tip, but not much else
If you tin the wires, it actually works pretty well. If stuff is super dirty, or for some of the wire I have that seems to be pretty oxidized, the flux pen comes in.
@@formbi It depends on the quality of your solder. I've had rosin lead solder with not enough just as I've had lead free with a gracious amount. Unfortunately I could never get ahold of more good lead free solder before I bought a relatively large roll of lead solder, so I'll probably be working through that for the next 10 years...
I almost exclusively solder to repair audio gear, so solder wetting the first time is really important. Lots of plastics that don't like heat... I consider the lead to not be a problem since repairs keep it all out of landfill. It's not like our ears have gotten better, so any gear that was good is still good, as long as it functions.
Nice project. However, there is no need for all of this. Most home consumers are using a single-dose hopper. They weigh the beans before grinding. The result is 0.1-0.2 gram error.