just got a massive double 48,000 BTU Mitsubishi Hyper heat system installed in my home. 8 heads total. it's an old farm house that has a horrible and inefficient propane furnace system. because of the ineffective way the duct work was installed (3 out of the 4 bedrooms upstairs have no ductwork at all), i was paying $1000 a month in propane bills. I live in Upstate NY and the winters can be nasty. I just had this system installed and now i have heat in every room. No doubt my electric bill will go up but my main goal is to make the biggest dent possible in that propane bill. plus i have the nice bonus of central AC which i've never had in my life. it made sense to me because of the way the house is and the fact it's propane. If it was natural gas it may not have been worth it. Even if i cut the propane bill in half ($500/month) the system will pay for itself in 5 or so years.
I have the hyper heat too...make sure you turn on the 3d I sensor. You do that with the remote. Press the sensor button to turn it all. It will intelligently heat and cool the room....no need for those floor heaters. The Hi2 is revolutionary to be honest. It changes the game.
Curious to know how you made out. Did you eliminate the need for baseboard heat in the upstairs after all? I’m looking to get the hyper-heat system to solve my home’s heating and cooling issues.
In an environment where it can get extremely cold in the winter, it's important to have a secondary source of heat. Heat pumps are the most efficient heat source but occasionally units may break down, so the baseboard heat will make sure the house is still habitable until a service call can be made. They appear to have baseboard heat and also a large gas or electric wall heater in the main downstairs room. So all that needs to happen is for the thermostats to be set lower than the heat pump setting, to have them come on if the house is unattended and the heat pump isn't working.
I am planning to get this unit installed in AZ next month. Can you let me know the riser (brand, model) you are using with the outdoor condenser? Thanks
Agree completely with post by Erik G. These things look GREAT on paper- but in a harsh environment (anywhere where it’s sub 32degrees for an extended period) and low/no insulation- you are gonna need DOUBLE the computed spec. I just did (over two years with testing while i had a furnace for non split areas) hyper heat units in 3000 sq ft NYC home with low insulation and had to double the BTUs of the air handlers. It’s ALL ABOUT THE AIR ENVELOPE- No envelope, no heat build-up. PLEASE KEEP US UPDATED ON YOUR INSTALL- thnx.
Just another observation... These things blow heat at 120degres at the source, but 10 feet into the room you are gonna be at 65degrees. If you sit directly into the airflow, you will be toasty, but without an envelope in the room... forget about it.
850 mph I’m not sure I understand. If air infiltration and insulation levels as well as micro-climate data are used when doing the Manual-J, there should be no reason that the BTU output of the units would not be sufficient. These have been in for a year with no issues. I would like to hear more though, I’m not sure I fully understand. Thanks!
@@marrsheatingandairconditioning I'm just say'in... I did the Manual-J calcs... and they were 50-100% off for each room/unit because I have a low/no insulation three-story house. At my latitude (NYC) I was just reluctant to do the whole house at one go, so I opted to do the top floor (3 rooms) with a 36K hyper heat unit and three (9KBTU-100 sqft room, 12KBTU-200 sqft room and 18KBTU-300 sqft room) air handlers connected to a branch box. Last year-2018- on sub 32degree days, the system provided heat in each room at 120degrees-- but the units ran 24 hours, all day and night, and the only way we could "FEEL" the heat was to have the fan blowing on MAX when we were in the room....... Long story short..... The fact that there is really no air envelope in my 100 year old brownstone means that the Mitsu just keeps pumping hot air, which is quickly lost through the plaster walls. My only remedy (barring ripping out the plaster walls, providing a plastic membrane, re-insulating) was to double the air handler size-- inefficient, yes, but the solution provides enough hot air to actually "FEEL" the warmth. Now, although the above solution may seem backwards for an INVERTER system, Electricity is actually pretty cheap here in NYC-- 7 cents KwH (time and use plan from ConEd) So the extra BTUs on the system are STILL less expensive than Oil or Gas heat!!!!!
I should mention-- I guess the Manual-J calcs were correct, but I just over estimated the insulation values pumped into the equations. The only reason I commented on this video was the fact that the audio distinctly mentions the fact that the house is not well insulated -- and the windows, including skylight will be real heat suckers.
850 mph I see what you’re saying! Yeah this house doesn’t have great insulation by today’s standards, but by no means is there no insulation. I really appreciate your comments though I like to think about things more in depth and this is a good topic for discussion!
I am looking for a mitsubishi high velocity system. Any ideas of the model? I am aware of spacepak and unico systems. Recently had a sales rep they offer mitsubishi systems and are more reliable.
@@marrsheatingandairconditioning Probably would have been better insurance to just pony up for a stand. Especially being that the name of the town is Glacier!
If you have an average home (1500 sft to 4500 sft), and live in the frigid north of the US or Canada, then Mitsubishi HyperHeat Multi-Zone is the most inefficient system for you. You are better off installing a Mr Cool Single Zone of Multi-Zone, because Mitsubishi multizone will short cycle frequently (going to ZERO to peak - shutting down and starting up), resulting in energy consumption of over 3000Kwh. Other companies have designed the systems to modulate but not Mitsubishi.
Anyone know how to bypass the minimum mitsubishi heating temperature? On my system it won't let me drop the temperature in heating mode below 63ﾟ. My thermostat may be Defective as even when I set the temperature to 63ﾟ it heats the Room up to 70ﾟ it reads the Room is cooler than it actually is.
They usually don’t allow you to set below 60. However, if you install an MHK2 wireless thermostat on your system (if compatible), it will allow you to drop the temperature to 50 degrees.
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My HVAC was put in the house in 1993 so it's 26 years old. I'll definitely be going with a Mitsibushi hyper heat system when mine fails.
just got a massive double 48,000 BTU Mitsubishi Hyper heat system installed in my home. 8 heads total. it's an old farm house that has a horrible and inefficient propane furnace system. because of the ineffective way the duct work was installed (3 out of the 4 bedrooms upstairs have no ductwork at all), i was paying $1000 a month in propane bills. I live in Upstate NY and the winters can be nasty.
I just had this system installed and now i have heat in every room. No doubt my electric bill will go up but my main goal is to make the biggest dent possible in that propane bill. plus i have the nice bonus of central AC which i've never had in my life.
it made sense to me because of the way the house is and the fact it's propane. If it was natural gas it may not have been worth it. Even if i cut the propane bill in half ($500/month) the system will pay for itself in 5 or so years.
How has it worked for you so far?
I have the hyper heat too...make sure you turn on the 3d I sensor. You do that with the remote. Press the sensor button to turn it all. It will intelligently heat and cool the room....no need for those floor heaters. The Hi2 is revolutionary to be honest. It changes the game.
Curious to know how you made out. Did you eliminate the need for baseboard heat in the upstairs after all? I’m looking to get the hyper-heat system to solve my home’s heating and cooling issues.
In an environment where it can get extremely cold in the winter, it's important to have a secondary source of heat. Heat pumps are the most efficient heat source but occasionally units may break down, so the baseboard heat will make sure the house is still habitable until a service call can be made. They appear to have baseboard heat and also a large gas or electric wall heater in the main downstairs room. So all that needs to happen is for the thermostats to be set lower than the heat pump setting, to have them come on if the house is unattended and the heat pump isn't working.
Nice system. Guy seems to really know his stuff
Cool house!
Clean looking install
Complicated install. Well done by your crew!
Do those feet come in a set for the outdoor unit?
I am planning to get this unit installed in AZ next month. Can you let me know the riser (brand, model) you are using with the outdoor condenser? Thanks
Agree completely with post by Erik G. These things look GREAT on paper- but in a harsh environment (anywhere where it’s sub 32degrees for an extended period) and low/no insulation- you are gonna need DOUBLE the computed spec. I just did (over two years with testing while i had a furnace for non split areas) hyper heat units in 3000 sq ft NYC home with low insulation and had to double the BTUs of the air handlers.
It’s ALL ABOUT THE AIR ENVELOPE- No envelope, no heat build-up.
PLEASE KEEP US UPDATED ON YOUR INSTALL- thnx.
Just another observation... These things blow heat at 120degres at the source, but 10 feet into the room you are gonna be at 65degrees. If you sit directly into the airflow, you will be toasty, but without an envelope in the room... forget about it.
850 mph I’m not sure I understand. If air infiltration and insulation levels as well as micro-climate data are used when doing the Manual-J, there should be no reason that the BTU output of the units would not be sufficient. These have been in for a year with no issues. I would like to hear more though, I’m not sure I fully understand. Thanks!
@@marrsheatingandairconditioning I'm just say'in... I did the Manual-J calcs... and they were 50-100% off for each room/unit because I have a low/no insulation three-story house. At my latitude (NYC) I was just reluctant to do the whole house at one go, so I opted to do the top floor (3 rooms) with a 36K hyper heat unit and three (9KBTU-100 sqft room, 12KBTU-200 sqft room and 18KBTU-300 sqft room) air handlers connected to a branch box. Last year-2018- on sub 32degree days, the system provided heat in each room at 120degrees-- but the units ran 24 hours, all day and night, and the only way we could "FEEL" the heat was to have the fan blowing on MAX when we were in the room....... Long story short..... The fact that there is really no air envelope in my 100 year old brownstone means that the Mitsu just keeps pumping hot air, which is quickly lost through the plaster walls.
My only remedy (barring ripping out the plaster walls, providing a plastic membrane, re-insulating) was to double the air handler size-- inefficient, yes, but the solution provides enough hot air to actually "FEEL" the warmth.
Now, although the above solution may seem backwards for an INVERTER system, Electricity is actually pretty cheap here in NYC-- 7 cents KwH (time and use plan from ConEd) So the extra BTUs on the system are STILL less expensive than Oil or Gas heat!!!!!
I should mention-- I guess the Manual-J calcs were correct, but I just over estimated the insulation values pumped into the equations. The only reason I commented on this video was the fact that the audio distinctly mentions the fact that the house is not well insulated -- and the windows, including skylight will be real heat suckers.
850 mph I see what you’re saying! Yeah this house doesn’t have great insulation by today’s standards, but by no means is there no insulation. I really appreciate your comments though I like to think about things more in depth and this is a good topic for discussion!
I am looking for a mitsubishi high velocity system. Any ideas of the model? I am aware of spacepak and unico systems. Recently had a sales rep they offer mitsubishi systems and are more reliable.
Good thing it never snows there lol.
It does snow, but being under the eve, the 4” risers, and the basepan heater help us mitigate the issues with snow at the outdoor unit.
@@marrsheatingandairconditioning I'm just used to installing them on stands.
@@marrsheatingandairconditioning Probably would have been better insurance to just pony up for a stand. Especially being that the name of the town is Glacier!
What is the max line limit? 50’?
82’ from the branch box
I've never seen a hyper heat installed without a stand
What part of the country was this installed in? Any issues with snow accumulation around the compressor?
What is the difference between VRF and this branch box multi system
?
Vrf can heat/cool rooms independently
Now install a incandescent light bulb, middle of your home.
If you have an average home (1500 sft to 4500 sft), and live in the frigid north of the US or Canada, then Mitsubishi HyperHeat Multi-Zone is the most inefficient system for you. You are better off installing a Mr Cool Single Zone of Multi-Zone, because Mitsubishi multizone will short cycle frequently (going to ZERO to peak - shutting down and starting up), resulting in energy consumption of over 3000Kwh. Other companies have designed the systems to modulate but not Mitsubishi.
what about seattle (Washington) area. ?
Block Box
Anyone know how to bypass the minimum mitsubishi heating temperature? On my system it won't let me drop the temperature in heating mode below 63ﾟ. My thermostat may be Defective as even when I set the temperature to 63ﾟ it heats the Room up to 70ﾟ it reads the Room is cooler than it actually is.
They usually don’t allow you to set below 60. However, if you install an MHK2 wireless thermostat on your system (if compatible), it will allow you to drop the temperature to 50 degrees.
@@marrsheatingandairconditioning thank you