It was good to see you on matts offroad recovery! Ive been following the build since day 1, and i hope you can talk matt into turbo'ing the new build on his channel. My fingers are crossed his channel helps BLOW your channel up. You deserve it man. Keep up the work man!
@Dave McDaniel I agree with the supercharger vs a turbo just because Matt is putting the 8.1 in a tow truck build. Definitely like the quick colaboration between Matt and LT and hoping that it turns into a long term thing. Great for both channels; Matt already recognizes the skills and knowledge and LT can help him get his rig to its highest performance level enginewise.
I swear you so quickly became my favorite channel within the last year. With all the mods you do are either the same ones I have or the ones I plan to do and seeing them in such detail and even different ways than how I did them myself is so cool. Keep up the great work
Csx racing has headers and mounts to swap a LS engine in your Tacoma. once you upgrade the COPO trucks engine to a larger engine, that 4.8 would be a nice upgrade in the Tacoma. Turbo Tom did a turbocharged swap with an LS into a Tacoma. Also, a guy swapped on 12.6 inch discs on another Tacoma for some nice stopping power. Love all the builds so far and your meticulous work.
What do you guys think, should I put the extended cab on a diet? I love the denali interior, but its eventually gonna need a cage so I wonder if I should just strip it down to a bare dash, add light weight seats, and make it a bare bones race setup...
I think you should keep the ugly truck the way it is for now... Focus on traction and launch capabilities (improve weight transfer to the rear?). If you cant hook with the 8.1 now, that 547 is just going to smoke whatever tires you put on. The Copo truck needs a bigger cam... that 4.8 wants to scream and you have enough torque from the supercharger. The Taco needs more HP but not much TQ... I would love to see the 2RZ BOOSTED. Just size the turbo with a larger engine in mind if you decide to swap one in later. That's just my 2 cents...
Anti-seize on the lug nuts is super important in order to have proper torque. Like you say, ultra torque lube on head studs is critical. Same principle with the lug nuts. Note: too much anti-seize is not beneficial as well.
Hey LT, I saw you on Truck Tech and I really like the content on your RUclips channel. You're very informative and you don't put in fake drama, long intros, fluff, etc. Keep it up, looking forward to see what happens to UGT and Stepside.
I can't believe how much that black truck weighs! I have a '00 2WD just like it, with the original 5.3, and it only weighs around 3900lbs! That's why I like it, it's so light weight. Even if I had a big block and a 4L80 it wouldn't be that heavy.
A drift build could be cool for the Toyota if you're into that. A lot of drifters run a 1UZ Toyota V8. Or just keep building the drag trucks, even the single cab does well in the autocross.
So im excited to see what it does at the track.. I have a 96 extended cab Silverado fully gutted with A 396 small small block carbureted holly 850 from blueprint with the same weels built 4l60 new axles ,Yukon locker and for 410 gears .. i should be done by July.. hopefully..lol thanks for all your awesome videos..
Carroll Shelby did that formula with the Cobra. It worked then and it still works now. When you boost the HP in the UGT, have you considered moving the engine back a bit to help offset some of the front weight bias? I'd love to see your COPO version of that!
yes, I have considered that, but it would take a ton of firewall and trans tunnel surgery, and I'm not sure how much space I wanna give up on the inside for the heater box and whatnot. I kinda want to put in AC if possible...
My all stock 2004 silverado extended cab step side with a 4.8 was around 5200 last time I drove it over the scale. My truck is a heavy pig with a under powered engine. I can't wait til I drop a cammed 5.3 in it this summer.
As someone who use to be a commercial service manager for a major tire provider shop policy was to use anti-seize when using different metal wheels/lug nut/stud combo
Those tires are superior grip. If you over heat them driving on the street they get greasy feel and wear away quickly. Use some stripper glitter traction compound and hook so hard you will find the weak point in the drive line quickly.
My recommendation for the Toyota is just lightly mod it to make it the best daily driver and parts go getter in the fleet. If it was my truck, I'd avoid all mod that might cause my wife to not want to drive this truck from Fairbanks AK to Miami FL, if you get my drift.
Proper anti seize is actually better than grease or oil in regards to obtaining and maintaining proper torque . The small particles of aluminium or copper provide the lubrication not the media it’s suspended in. Depending on the thread pitch and other factors as little as 30% of the available thread surface actually makes contact on a fastener. Using either thread locker or antiseize can increase the contact area by a significant amount. Thread locker does this by filling the gaps as liquid then setting hard gluing the two components together. Antiseize fills the gap with metal. Because the gaps are filled with metal and not a liquid that can run out when it gets hot antiseize also acts as a partial thread locker. Thread locker is also an antiseize. The liquid locker acts as a lubricant as the fasteners are torqued and when set prevents corrosion, this only applies to the unexposed portion of the threads however. If you live in the rust belt either use antiseize or cut off the ends of fasteners or paint them if you ever want to remove them again. There is probably a thread locker grade recommended for lugnuts.
FWIW...and in case you don't already know.... scales read in increments of 20 lbs. Meaning...if you put a feather on the scale, there's a chance it'll read as 20 lbs. You could've kicked up a pebble, or even a gust of wind...to get that trailer axle reading. I'm very anxious to see what ugt will do with traction. Sending positive vibes that the tires are still the first things to break loose.
There's an old saying that says beauty is in the eye of the beholder! If it was mine it would be just thorough cleaning wash and a little extra T/L/C when came time to do a little buffing.
I’ve had that too with NA and near sea level. I think the calculators are for dedicated drag cars set up perfectly for the track. A street car will need more power to achieve the same results.
On the wheel lugs and nut being greased. Never had a problem, it's not an issue. Makes everything easier to come apart, together and no galling on threads.
I'm in the same boat as you man lol I have a 2002 Silverado Extended Cab except mine is 4X4 and the goal is to run a 9 second 1/4 mile pass using the original gen 3 5.3 in a truck that probably weighs as much as UGT. I also have a t6 S480 on my 5.3, only on 15 lbs right now but I imagine I'll need about double that to get my 9 second pass. Certainly a lot to ask from a gen 3 but that's what makes it fun lol luckily I just moved to Houston and if there's one city that knows fast trucks it's here.
I really like your plans with The Ugly Truck. Maybe you could do some weight reduction videos. I have the ISS version and I'm interested in making it as fast and light as possible, but not an all out drag truck.
LT, For the Tacoma install an new aluminum 5.3 new direct injection LT L83 or 84 w/355hp bone stock formerly LS and install a Tremec TKX 5 speed! The Ford 8.8 from a Ford Explorer will literally bolt in as from what I understand it’s a 1/4” wider plus two other gentleman have used the same diff in the 1st Gen. Taco. The rear leaf spring perch will bolt on to the diff. There’s already kits for front coil-overs, large front disc brakes from Cadillac, drop spindles from a gentleman in NC, 18x9 w/ 45et wheel with 265/35-18’s clear front and rear on dropped Taco’s, etc… Depending on how low you go you may have to notch the rear frame. There’s info here on RUclips and on Tacoma World. You can call it your TOYLET…
back when I used to drag race and this was years ago cuz Dallas drag strip in Paulding county Georgia was still open one of the fastest street trucks there was a 1-ton dually 4x4 can't remember if it was gas or diesel (going back well over 20+years) but it ran the eighth mile track in a little over seven seconds and the guy drove it to the track.
Couple mental notes: the COPO truck is going to gain a little weight with the 4L80 swap no? And the Ugly truck has an advantage at altitude using a turbo vs a supercharger or NA. You make whatever your boost setting is regardless of altitude, which is not necessarily the case with a PD supercharger. The turbo will just spin faster to do it at 4,700ft vs sea level.
Honestly I like the look of the normal rims up front and the drag tire on the back. It’s just that little tell that it’s a bad truck. As far as the mini truck id personally put a boost adder on it for cool points.
4g63 is the Mitsubishi Evo engine. Blown 2liters can put an easy 5-600hp down. Supercharged Tacoma's we're a factory vehicle. There's some hotrod options for that thing.
The Et street Rs are a superior tire compared to the street ss but they do wear much faster on the street and also on the dyno with the knurling on the rollers. Interested in the draggy comparison videos
I’m thinking that Toyota needs to be left alone. Then again it can’t hurt to put a Turbo on it. Toyota had the 22R-TE in some 85-88 models. Anyways, maybe one day I’ll be fortunate to run into you out there. I occasionally am in SLC to deliver or drive fleet vehicles. This weekend I’ll be up there to drive a DOT truck to Phoenix. Great videos as usual.
Reach out to PFI and see if you can get a 4-banger that'll fit in the Yoda with high HP, turn it into AutoX Tracuk. Stepside for course, and UGT for drag.
I have run the ET Street SS in that diameter on a 17 and the R in the next size up, the R hooks up better but not a huge ammount more but sucks for regular driving especially on the highway and if there is the slightest bit of moisture on the road its a real nightmare. I wasn't hesitant to drive on the street with the SS's but I am on the R's. If you are going long distances or drag and drive events you will want a second set of wheels and tires because these things pick up everything on the road and the road manners are bad. If you let it set on these tires for long periods they flat spot and take a pretty healthy burnout to get back to round and stop the bed from shaking, which is pretty interesting and shows just how much these trucks need re-inforcement if you are going to make big improvements in the 60 foot times. Never had that problem with the ET Street SS tires. MT has been quoted as saying the R tires "should be used on dry pavement only and are not suitable for normal highway use..." and while they are more optimistic about the SS tires they are still considered by most a race tire that probably won't kill you if you get caught in bad weather. If you want to drive hundreds of miles between tracks and not cary a set of street tires you want the SS. Also since you are running the 10 bolt and have stock axles you probably won't be able to run a true slick if you have to pass NHRA tech inspection so this is about the best tire you can get as adequate wheel stud thread engagement, and a drive shaft loop are needed. As far as studs go if you have the stock 14mm studs they want to see 14mm of stud extend into the hex portion of the lug nut, regardless of how it reads really you want to have 14mm of stud beyond the face of the wheel to avoid problems, and that means a minimum of a 2-1/2" stud depending on your wheel thickness and the reason most of use run open studs is so someone wont ask you to pull a lug nut off when you are running late for your class just to prove you have the engagement. But once you go 10.99 or faster you will need to get the axle retention devices to eliminate c-clips so you will swap axles anyway so worry about that then and stick to the drag radials instead of full slicks.
Honda K24 with BMW manual transmission. Plenty of kits with adapters. And the right BMW transmission is as strong as a T56 to TR6060 and less than half the price.
There is a Toyota TRD Camry or similar front wheel drive that has a supercharger and other goodness. Getting one of those engines and sticking it behind the cab should be easy and awesome . Or an ls4 . That is if you want an almost entirely useless pickup but a great drag truck.
On the taco id do a k24/20 NA honda swap built for high rpm. Big boosted v8s are cool, but when you already have a few you might as well make something different. 300hp at 9000rpm just hits different. Vtec crossover will make you tingle where you pee from. It will also remain incredibly reliable and good on fuel for regular driving. Alternatively, im a diesel guy a heart and would also do a tdi vw swap for that 50+mpg or a bmw 3.0 diesel in the e90 335d.
I guessed 4800 on the step side. I had a 2dr 2wd 4.8L auto years back and I weighed it at 4700 ball park, but you have a lot more stuff, going on so I figured 4800 was the number.
I dont think these trucks are too heavy to race. I own a 2001 ext cab 5.3 truck and it moves out and 20in wheels. Just exhaust,electric fans and a cts3 programmer. Im excited to see what you do with your ext cab 👍
On the MT ET street R start at about 18 -20 psi. Also MT do not need a big burn out. Just turn them over to You see smoke let off the break and roll out.
I have the same wheels on my truck. it's got a bead lock on the back. Nice Wheels but a little heavy for drag racing. Btw are you selling your old disc brake setup. I would be interested if so
That mileage is like my 2003 LB7 with a compound stock(60mm)/S475. That’s until the compound spools up. Then it has way more power at the same throttle.
Hey LT when you said you were thinking about building the small truck u said ( mini truck) that implied a build like a (stance car) u know body kit slammed slow but if u really meant small rocketship them I think we are all in👍👍👍😭
It was good to see you on matts offroad recovery! Ive been following the build since day 1, and i hope you can talk matt into turbo'ing the new build on his channel. My fingers are crossed his channel helps BLOW your channel up. You deserve it man. Keep up the work man!
Bas3d on how Matt works, a super charger would be much better suited for his usage.
@Dave McDaniel I agree with the supercharger vs a turbo just because Matt is putting the 8.1 in a tow truck build. Definitely like the quick colaboration between Matt and LT and hoping that it turns into a long term thing. Great for both channels; Matt already recognizes the skills and knowledge and LT can help him get his rig to its highest performance level enginewise.
I swear you so quickly became my favorite channel within the last year. With all the mods you do are either the same ones I have or the ones I plan to do and seeing them in such detail and even different ways than how I did them myself is so cool. Keep up the great work
I’ll
Csx racing has headers and mounts to swap a LS engine in your Tacoma. once you upgrade the COPO trucks engine to a larger engine, that 4.8 would be a nice upgrade in the Tacoma. Turbo Tom did a turbocharged swap with an LS into a Tacoma. Also, a guy swapped on 12.6 inch discs on another Tacoma for some nice stopping power. Love all the builds so far and your meticulous work.
You need to put anti-seize on the the hub flange and register as well to fight corrosion/ wheel sticking on
What do you guys think, should I put the extended cab on a diet? I love the denali interior, but its eventually gonna need a cage so I wonder if I should just strip it down to a bare dash, add light weight seats, and make it a bare bones race setup...
Personally I like the way it is, of course I will still watch if you do.🤷♂️ keep up the great content 👍
Nope, just give it 1500HP
I think you should keep the ugly truck the way it is for now... Focus on traction and launch capabilities (improve weight transfer to the rear?). If you cant hook with the 8.1 now, that 547 is just going to smoke whatever tires you put on.
The Copo truck needs a bigger cam... that 4.8 wants to scream and you have enough torque from the supercharger.
The Taco needs more HP but not much TQ... I would love to see the 2RZ BOOSTED. Just size the turbo with a larger engine in mind if you decide to swap one in later.
That's just my 2 cents...
Anti-seize on the lug nuts is super important in order to have proper torque. Like you say, ultra torque lube on head studs is critical. Same principle with the lug nuts.
Note: too much anti-seize is not beneficial as well.
It's yours LT, modify it. As clean and professional as your work is, anything you touch, is a dramatic improvement over factory.
PREACH, LT is a wizard!
Hey LT, I saw you on Truck Tech and I really like the content on your RUclips channel. You're very informative and you don't put in fake drama, long intros, fluff, etc. Keep it up, looking forward to see what happens to UGT and Stepside.
Mod the yota. When you upgrade the block in the copo put the 4.8 in the taco and turbo it. Insane fast truck and using engine you already have.
Damn!!!!!!!! Looks so beautiful! Really transformed the whole look hood lord LT
I can’t wait to see that 547, it’s amazing how much torque this engine made. 900 sounds brutal. Imagine what that will do…. 😮💨
looks KILLER with the radials in the back. love the content dude, keep it up!
hey thanks! I do like how it looks
I can't believe how much that black truck weighs! I have a '00 2WD just like it, with the original 5.3, and it only weighs around 3900lbs! That's why I like it, it's so light weight. Even if I had a big block and a 4L80 it wouldn't be that heavy.
A drift build could be cool for the Toyota if you're into that. A lot of drifters run a 1UZ Toyota V8. Or just keep building the drag trucks, even the single cab does well in the autocross.
Great tires! I run those on my drag pack for my cts v. They hook great at the track and have worn pretty well.
Yes I love that your gonna be in on the heavy wrecker build
So im excited to see what it does at the track.. I have a 96 extended cab Silverado fully gutted with A 396 small small block carbureted holly 850 from blueprint with the same weels built 4l60 new axles ,Yukon locker and for 410 gears .. i should be done by July.. hopefully..lol thanks for all your awesome videos..
Carroll Shelby did that formula with the Cobra. It worked then and it still works now.
When you boost the HP in the UGT, have you considered moving the engine back a bit to help offset some of the front weight bias? I'd love to see your COPO version of that!
yes, I have considered that, but it would take a ton of firewall and trans tunnel surgery, and I'm not sure how much space I wanna give up on the inside for the heater box and whatnot. I kinda want to put in AC if possible...
My all stock 2004 silverado extended cab step side with a 4.8 was around 5200 last time I drove it over the scale. My truck is a heavy pig with a under powered engine. I can't wait til I drop a cammed 5.3 in it this summer.
you should build a 5.7 iForce v8 for the Taco
As someone who use to be a commercial service manager for a major tire provider shop policy was to use anti-seize when using different metal wheels/lug nut/stud combo
Those tires are superior grip. If you over heat them driving on the street they get greasy feel and wear away quickly. Use some stripper glitter traction compound and hook so hard you will find the weak point in the drive line quickly.
My recommendation for the Toyota is just lightly mod it to make it the best daily driver and parts go getter in the fleet.
If it was my truck, I'd avoid all mod that might cause my wife to not want to drive this truck from Fairbanks AK to Miami FL, if you get my drift.
You got to turbo that Taco. Man,that's a sweet ride
“Don’t worry, I’m not gonna do that. That would make too much sense.” My life motto never said better
Proper anti seize is actually better than grease or oil in regards to obtaining and maintaining proper torque .
The small particles of aluminium or copper provide the lubrication not the media it’s suspended in.
Depending on the thread pitch and other factors as little as 30% of the available thread surface actually makes contact on a fastener. Using either thread locker or antiseize can increase the contact area by a significant amount.
Thread locker does this by filling the gaps as liquid then setting hard gluing the two components together.
Antiseize fills the gap with metal. Because the gaps are filled with metal and not a liquid that can run out when it gets hot antiseize also acts as a partial thread locker.
Thread locker is also an antiseize.
The liquid locker acts as a lubricant as the fasteners are torqued and when set prevents corrosion, this only applies to the unexposed portion of the threads however. If you live in the rust belt either use antiseize or cut off the ends of fasteners or paint them if you ever want to remove them again.
There is probably a thread locker grade recommended for lugnuts.
FWIW...and in case you don't already know.... scales read in increments of 20 lbs. Meaning...if you put a feather on the scale, there's a chance it'll read as 20 lbs. You could've kicked up a pebble, or even a gust of wind...to get that trailer axle reading. I'm very anxious to see what ugt will do with traction. Sending positive vibes that the tires are still the first things to break loose.
I wondered about that, I was figuring 10lb increments, but this makes more sense now
There's an old saying that says beauty is in the eye of the beholder! If it was mine it would be just thorough cleaning wash and a little extra T/L/C when came time to do a little buffing.
I’ve had that too with NA and near sea level. I think the calculators are for dedicated drag cars set up perfectly for the track. A street car will need more power to achieve the same results.
On the wheel lugs and nut being greased. Never had a problem, it's not an issue. Makes everything easier to come apart, together and no galling on threads.
Great job sir. Thouroly enjoyed this one. Lots of data!
THIS IS WHAT IVE BEEN WAITING FOR YOU ARE, THAT GUY !!!!!
I’ve been lubricating all surfaces and hand torquing for 40 years it’s worked out for me.
I'm in the same boat as you man lol I have a 2002 Silverado Extended Cab except mine is 4X4 and the goal is to run a 9 second 1/4 mile pass using the original gen 3 5.3 in a truck that probably weighs as much as UGT. I also have a t6 S480 on my 5.3, only on 15 lbs right now but I imagine I'll need about double that to get my 9 second pass. Certainly a lot to ask from a gen 3 but that's what makes it fun lol luckily I just moved to Houston and if there's one city that knows fast trucks it's here.
THANK YOU! I thought I was alone as no one agrees with me. I always anti-seize the lug studs and the face of the rotor!
I’m in your camp, been putting anti-seize on lug studs as far back as the’80s. Not going to stop now
Same.
It is much better in the long run. I have been doing it for years. Way back when all I could afford was used tires. Never had an issue
Put a mark on the tire and rim so you see if the rim spins inside the tire. You may have to add some tack to the edge of the do it.
Simple turbo setup on the Tacoma would be a fun little ripper on the streets
100% agree with using anti-seize on lug studs. Not a ton required. A dab will do ya
I really like your plans with The Ugly Truck. Maybe you could do some weight reduction videos. I have the ISS version and I'm interested in making it as fast and light as possible, but not an all out drag truck.
Those Nito, Nitto tires are really good. There's a youtuber, TaylorRay that uses them for drifting and he swears by them.
LT,
For the Tacoma install an new aluminum 5.3 new direct injection LT L83 or 84 w/355hp bone stock formerly LS and install a Tremec TKX 5 speed! The Ford 8.8 from a Ford Explorer will literally bolt in as from what I understand it’s a 1/4” wider plus two other gentleman have used the same diff in the 1st Gen. Taco. The rear leaf spring perch will bolt on to the diff. There’s already kits for front coil-overs, large front disc brakes from Cadillac, drop spindles from a gentleman in NC, 18x9 w/ 45et wheel with 265/35-18’s clear front and rear on dropped Taco’s, etc… Depending on how low you go you may have to notch the rear frame. There’s info here on RUclips and on Tacoma World. You can call it your TOYLET…
back when I used to drag race and this was years ago cuz Dallas drag strip in Paulding county Georgia was still open one of the fastest street trucks there was a 1-ton dually 4x4 can't remember if it was gas or diesel (going back well over 20+years) but it ran the eighth mile track in a little over seven seconds and the guy drove it to the track.
Need to get matching wheels up front with skinny drag tires
A wet (lubricated) torque is more accurate then a dry torque
Hey LT, 547 Ugly Truck against Finnigan's Caddy.......... that would be a cool race of two behemoth vehicles with turbo BBC :)
Great vid! Did you say 900 fp tq?
Love ur builds big fan!!!! Of All pickups build, keep it going bro allsome
Thanks! Will do!
Couple mental notes: the COPO truck is going to gain a little weight with the 4L80 swap no?
And the Ugly truck has an advantage at altitude using a turbo vs a supercharger or NA. You make whatever your boost setting is regardless of altitude, which is not necessarily the case with a PD supercharger. The turbo will just spin faster to do it at 4,700ft vs sea level.
LT. 1 or 2jz turbo in the yota.
They love boost with almost no modification
be bold. Go big 💪
Honestly I like the look of the normal rims up front and the drag tire on the back. It’s just that little tell that it’s a bad truck. As far as the mini truck id personally put a boost adder on it for cool points.
Do a Ford 2.7 Ecoboost V6 from an F150 into the Tacoma. Might be an interesting and unique swap. It would definitely scoot.
4g63 is the Mitsubishi Evo engine. Blown 2liters can put an easy 5-600hp down.
Supercharged Tacoma's we're a factory vehicle. There's some hotrod options for that thing.
Those Welds were a good choice they look sweet
For a comparison my RCSB 03 Sierra 4x4 with the 4.8 was 4610lbs. That's with 18 inch wheels and tires from a Sierra AT4.
No 93 in Oklahoma. Used to be available at the Sinclair stations only, but hasn't been for over 10yrs.
The Et street Rs are a superior tire compared to the street ss but they do wear much faster on the street and also on the dyno with the knurling on the rollers. Interested in the draggy comparison videos
I used to live in Utah and often recognize some of the spots you drive by. Outside Phoenix is 4.99 for 87 Octane, we have 87, 89 and 91.
Watch out, that killmat adds 3000lbs.... Hopefully there's no drone though 🤔
I’m thinking that Toyota needs to be left alone. Then again it can’t hurt to put a Turbo on it. Toyota had the 22R-TE in some 85-88 models.
Anyways, maybe one day I’ll be fortunate to run into you out there. I occasionally am in SLC to deliver or drive fleet vehicles. This weekend I’ll be up there to drive a DOT truck to Phoenix.
Great videos as usual.
the title to the video is the most relatable thing ever
Man that thing looks amazing. But by any chance you know the rear backspacing on wheel
Turbo the 2RZ!
Do you wish that you started with a single cab for the 8.1 truck now? Or do you still would have wanted the ext cab if you could do it again
I’m with you on anti-seize usage.
Live somewhere where things rust and you’ll figure it out real quick.
Time for some Carbon Fiber on that front end
My 05 2wd single cab weights 4400lbs so that's makes sense with the awd system. Also my truck has 4l80e..
Reach out to PFI and see if you can get a 4-banger that'll fit in the Yoda with high HP, turn it into AutoX Tracuk. Stepside for course, and UGT for drag.
I have run the ET Street SS in that diameter on a 17 and the R in the next size up, the R hooks up better but not a huge ammount more but sucks for regular driving especially on the highway and if there is the slightest bit of moisture on the road its a real nightmare. I wasn't hesitant to drive on the street with the SS's but I am on the R's. If you are going long distances or drag and drive events you will want a second set of wheels and tires because these things pick up everything on the road and the road manners are bad. If you let it set on these tires for long periods they flat spot and take a pretty healthy burnout to get back to round and stop the bed from shaking, which is pretty interesting and shows just how much these trucks need re-inforcement if you are going to make big improvements in the 60 foot times. Never had that problem with the ET Street SS tires. MT has been quoted as saying the R tires "should be used on dry pavement only and are not suitable for normal highway use..." and while they are more optimistic about the SS tires they are still considered by most a race tire that probably won't kill you if you get caught in bad weather. If you want to drive hundreds of miles between tracks and not cary a set of street tires you want the SS. Also since you are running the 10 bolt and have stock axles you probably won't be able to run a true slick if you have to pass NHRA tech inspection so this is about the best tire you can get as adequate wheel stud thread engagement, and a drive shaft loop are needed. As far as studs go if you have the stock 14mm studs they want to see 14mm of stud extend into the hex portion of the lug nut, regardless of how it reads really you want to have 14mm of stud beyond the face of the wheel to avoid problems, and that means a minimum of a 2-1/2" stud depending on your wheel thickness and the reason most of use run open studs is so someone wont ask you to pull a lug nut off when you are running late for your class just to prove you have the engagement. But once you go 10.99 or faster you will need to get the axle retention devices to eliminate c-clips so you will swap axles anyway so worry about that then and stick to the drag radials instead of full slicks.
You could do an Auto cross/Road race build with the Tacoma, just a thought.
A little more weight at the back for more traction helps balance it out (for a truck)
Honda K24 with BMW manual transmission. Plenty of kits with adapters. And the right BMW transmission is as strong as a T56 to TR6060 and less than half the price.
There is a Toyota TRD Camry or similar front wheel drive that has a supercharger and other goodness.
Getting one of those engines and sticking it behind the cab should be easy and awesome .
Or an ls4 .
That is if you want an almost entirely useless pickup but a great drag truck.
03 s10 with LT1-700r4 -3 gears with a s10 8.625 rear-long tube headers . Holley carb with gm performance intake - hei distributor
Anti-sieze, I put that "S" on everything!!!
Instead of anti sieze, do like what we have to do with big rigs, a couple drops of SAE30 motor oil on the studs, much better that anti seize
Slicks look SICK!!! Lol
On the taco id do a k24/20 NA honda swap built for high rpm. Big boosted v8s are cool, but when you already have a few you might as well make something different. 300hp at 9000rpm just hits different. Vtec crossover will make you tingle where you pee from. It will also remain incredibly reliable and good on fuel for regular driving. Alternatively, im a diesel guy a heart and would also do a tdi vw swap for that 50+mpg or a bmw 3.0 diesel in the e90 335d.
Looks great!
That thing is badass!
You can always shed weight 👍
I guessed 4800 on the step side. I had a 2dr 2wd 4.8L auto years back and I weighed it at 4700 ball park, but you have a lot more stuff, going on so I figured 4800 was the number.
I just paid $5.68 a gallon in Scottsdale, AZ! Last time I get gas on my way home from work! About a dollar more per gallon just to be in Snottsdale!
Pick up a $500 GMT-360 for the Tacoma and do a full blown budget LS build with the aluminum 5.3 LM4. Would be awesome!
Dang you let that white SUV get ahead of you like that 😆
I dont think these trucks are too heavy to race. I own a 2001 ext cab 5.3 truck and it moves out and 20in wheels. Just exhaust,electric fans and a cts3 programmer. Im excited to see what you do with your ext cab 👍
Those trucks are light. My stockish rwd 04 2500hd rclb is 5850lbs.
That is a great look with those new wheels. Need to get a match for the front. Not a skinny though.
On the MT ET street R start at about 18 -20 psi. Also MT do not need a big burn out. Just turn them over to You see smoke let off the break and roll out.
thanks for the tips! that's good to know
4.3 turbo for the Tacoma. Call it the “taclone”
LT do a turbo K series in the taco, light weight lots of speed. but keep pushing these big trucks with the big hammers man.
Most tracks insist upon open ended lug nuts so stud thread engagement can be verified.
yeah, good point here, I totally forgot about how they check that. I'll have to switch em out before we get too fast
I have the same wheels on my truck. it's got a bead lock on the back. Nice Wheels but a little heavy for drag racing. Btw are you selling your old disc brake setup. I would be interested if so
Anti seize works awesome on lug studs, thought I was the only one that did that
Your not an idiot for having a passion even if it's a passion that costs more than both of my kidneys lmao
in the Tacoma you should put a 1UZ-Fe in it.. it weighs almost as much as the four cylinder but double the power..
A built 1.9 ALH in the taco would be awesome.
I never thought that Taco would weigh as much as a Lx 🦊.
That 4.8 in the Tacoma with the LSA or a turbo would be crazy... Just saying... A thought....
I have thought of that, but also wondered how hard it would be to make an AWD tacoma... so many ideas floating around
AWD V8 turbo or LSA Tacoma that would weigh around 3100 or 3300.... Dam....
That mileage is like my 2003 LB7 with a compound stock(60mm)/S475. That’s until the compound spools up. Then it has way more power at the same throttle.
You need a compound turbo setup or super feeding turbo.
Hey LT when you said you were thinking about building the small truck u said ( mini truck) that implied a build like a (stance car) u know body kit slammed slow but if u really meant small rocketship them I think we are all in👍👍👍😭
lighter is better but you might sacrifice traction with alot of power in the lil truck, you may want to make it awd so your launch is on point?
I'll buy those rims and tires if you end up selling them and 93 is 4.99 in Florida to great video 👍👍