Just a QUICK TIP: A simple way to reduce the risk of scratching the shaft is to wrap a very thin piece of tape around a section of the shaft first, and then slide the reduction spacer over the tape. You STILL DO want to be very, very careful when snipping the volume spacer, however, as the snippers could scratch through the tape. Good Luck!
@@ashevillescarborough thanks, yeah was very simple job. Seems to feel a bit better just bouncing around. Always felt like I was hitting a kind of wall. But did remove all the spacers.
Unfortunately this will not work on the 115. It uses a 190x45 shock (which is the max stroke length in that shock size, and therefore no travel reducing spacer). Plus, Yeti does not recommend any other size shock for the 115.
Quite interesting and nicely illustrated. Funny, at the end of the day its less than 1 tenth of 1 inch increase in shock travel.......is it possible to reverse this...ie put a new spacer in easily ? Thanks
not quite as easy to reverse the process...it will require disassembling the shock further and sliding the spacer over the shock shaft. The process in the video cuts the spacer off the shaft instead of disassembling the shock and sliding the spacer off the shaft.
@@brunchride9967 First, thank you for the video. It is the only one with what we need :). I have a question for you and I thank you in advanced for your answer: Currently I have a Rockshox 185 x 55 rear shock and I want to buy a Fox Float DPX2 185x x52.5 to replace my existing one. DPX2 185x52.5 and 185x55 have the same body? If yes, then I think I should find that travel spacer inside, right? Thank you!
It will not change the static BB height, however at full compression or bottom out the BB will be slightly lower due to the increase in stroke of the shock. You are correct that the change is due to the 10mm longer fork on the LR.
Hi. I am a bit confused because after disassembling the box, it turned out that there is a spacer sleeve, but it is about 7 mm. on the manufacturer's website, the damper is described as 210x52.5 .. I think that after removing this sleeve, the piston would go too deep into the box, unsealing the chamber. any suggestions?
I wish the video outlined the torque spec and process of removing/installing the shock from the bike. Any particular notes? My shop won’t be able to do the swap to a super deluxe for 2 weeks so I’ll have to do this myself
Nice tutorial, I am about to pull the trigger on Yeti SB130, lower built kit, and no Turq frame, can I do it on this one? I think the cheaper built kit has same shock DPX 2?
Yes, it is a slightly more complicated process and requires a special tool from Fox go get the negative air chamber off, but not a complete disassembly. The 2.5mm spacer in the new X2 is 2 separate (yellow) pieces that go around the shaft and is screwed in. We perform this travel adjustment all the time and are happy to help you out. We plan on making a video on the next one that we do! (Could be yours)??
hey so I recently opened up my shock to do this (I just got a 2021 SB130 T2) and it appears my spacer is either one solid piece with the aluminum above it or maybe it's stuck in place but I've tried to get it out (gently) with a pick, with need nose pliers. I cannot get this thing out. How stuck was yours? Mine almost seems like it's not a separate 2.5mm spacer there is a line at 2.5mm but it almost looks like it's just that, a line and it's connected to the thicker aluminum spacer/stop above it that's connected to the top of the shock body. I was really hoping to be able to remove this spacer. any thoughts as to what you think or if maybe fox changed something in 2021?
@@brunchride9967 ya thanks I ended up having to tape up the shaft and then use pliers to twist the spacer I then put aluminum tape around half the shaft and slid the spacer over the alum tape to then cut with a pair of edge cutters to get the spacer out. Jobs a done
Why are the spacers put in there? I asked them to remove mine at the shop when I had them install my cascade link, but I don't think he knew exactly what I meant and seemed to think it might fuck with the fork. I think he was thinking I wanted to remove something else though
The spacers are used so that Fox can use the same shock chassis (eye to eye) and get several different stroke lengths, thus simplifying the number of shock chassis they have to manufacture.
Hi! I have just an 130 frame, since yeti didnt sell the 130LR frame, will have the same doing this oparating on the shock, and ading a 160fork? Do you know if should be same geometry? Or i will miss something else? Did you notice better on downhills, did you loose a lot on the climbs? And can you check the weight of your yeti? Thanks for the help
By removing the spacer and putting a 160 fork on the bike, it will have the same geo as the SB130LR. Honestly the 160 fork is more noticeable than the bump in rear travel. But the combo pairs very well together and you won’t lose much if any on the climbs! Every SB130 build is going to weigh different. The 130 is not the lightest frame out there but rides incredible. You can expect 30-34lbs depending on build, tires, etc...
That looks like a cunning plan. An easy way to get a little more travel, and slacken the head angle by 0.5 of a degree for slightly better performance on descents. The seat tube is already pretty steep, so losing half a degree is no biggie. I might never actually do the mod, but it's great to know it's there if I ever want or need it. Thanks for the vid (I've subbed) BTW: I'm 5' 10" (78cm) and pretty much decided on a Large SB130 frame. What size frame and stem did you pick, how tall are you, and how did it all work out? Cheers
Thanks for the comment, however this spacer removal will not alter the static heat tube or seat tube angle of the bike. The shock chassis length stays the same (210mm) and only the stroke is increased. The only way to change HTA or STA is to add a longer travel fork (or a cascade link). Hence the LunchRide with a 160mm fork is slacker than the standard SB130 with a 150mm fork. But yes, you will get slightly more travel out of the rear end! I am 6’0” and the large fits great for me! I am running a 40mm stem. Favorite bike of all time!
It depends on the year model of the X2. Some older ones use a similar spacer, but the new ones use a different travel reducer that is easier to take off. However, the overall disassembly process is a little more involved and requires special tools from Fox for the X2
Nice! The spacer is actually 2 halves that can be taken out and put pack in without having to completely disassemble the shock or cut anything. It’s a much nicer design. Again, getting to the spacers is a little more complicated and does require special tools from Fox though.
@@brunchride9967 I have the latest version of the DPX2 Factory and was told by my LBS that I need to send my shock back to Fox for conversion. Any write up and diagram of the change?
All DPX2’s are the same configuration. This video shows you how to convert it without having to send the shock to Fox or disassemble it yourself. (This is NOT the recommended way to do, but works if you are careful)
Removing that spacer gains 3mm of shock stroke, not travel. On a bike that has 130mm of travel from a 52.5mm stroke shock, you can calculate the leverage ratio of the frame by dividing the 130mm of travel by the 52.mm of stroke, which equals 2.476, so the leverage ratio is 2.476 to 1. Now you take the 55mm stroke that the shock has without the spacer and multiply it by 2.476, and that equals 136mm of travel.
Hi this is the ONLY ONE video i found on the WEB showing this operation !
Thank you
Haha I couldn’t find one either...That’s why I made it!
Just a QUICK TIP: A simple way to reduce the risk of scratching the shaft is to wrap a very thin piece of tape around a section of the shaft first, and then slide the reduction spacer over the tape. You STILL DO want to be very, very careful when snipping the volume spacer, however, as the snippers could scratch through the tape. Good Luck!
Good tip, thanks!
just gained 7mm of travel on my trance. NICE!
How do I can put a spacer again in the Shaft?
Thank you so much this is the only video showing this important things
replacing the spacer will require complete disassembly of the shock so you can slide the spacer back on the shaft.
Thanks! Now know how to bump my v1 sentinel with cascade link from 57.5 to 60... sweet
Was there much improvement? Going to tackle this today
@@domanater480 mild improvement but not earth shattering.. but I would still do it again.. not hard at all if you take your time
@@ashevillescarborough thanks, yeah was very simple job. Seems to feel a bit better just bouncing around. Always felt like I was hitting a kind of wall. But did remove all the spacers.
What are the best type of clippers to cut that spacer off? I have a few different ones but I wanna make sure I use the right one first time.
any ones that won't scratch the shaft!
Would this work on my Yeti SB115? Super thanks!
Unfortunately this will not work on the 115. It uses a 190x45 shock (which is the max stroke length in that shock size, and therefore no travel reducing spacer). Plus, Yeti does not recommend any other size shock for the 115.
Stumpy (and Evo) users, this is what you've been looking for !
Quite interesting and nicely illustrated. Funny, at the end of the day its less than 1 tenth of 1 inch increase in shock travel.......is it possible to reverse this...ie put a new spacer in easily ? Thanks
not quite as easy to reverse the process...it will require disassembling the shock further and sliding the spacer over the shock shaft. The process in the video cuts the spacer off the shaft instead of disassembling the shock and sliding the spacer off the shaft.
What would you be gaining by going from LR to non-LR rear shock? I don't see any advantages.
THANK YOU!
Are there one of these in every shock?
They are in every standard travel SB130. Not in every Fox DPX2
@@brunchride9967 First, thank you for the video. It is the only one with what we need :). I have a question for you and I thank you in advanced for your answer: Currently I have a Rockshox 185 x 55 rear shock and I want to buy a Fox Float DPX2 185x x52.5 to replace my existing one. DPX2 185x52.5 and 185x55 have the same body? If yes, then I think I should find that travel spacer inside, right? Thank you!
Yes that is correct, process should be exactly the same as in the video. Good luck!
Hi!! does it work also in Float DPS? I have a Float DPS 190x40 (100mm travel) and I want to convert it in a 190x45 (120mm travel), Thank you!!
Yes, process should be the same for a DPS.
Does this change bottom bracket height.? I know the LT is different but mostly due to fork. But not positive.
It will not change the static BB height, however at full compression or bottom out the BB will be slightly lower due to the increase in stroke of the shock. You are correct that the change is due to the 10mm longer fork on the LR.
@@brunchride9967 hi thank you... So basically there is no change in physical geometry following the change in the shock?
Hi. I am a bit confused because after disassembling the box, it turned out that there is a spacer sleeve, but it is about 7 mm. on the manufacturer's website, the damper is described as 210x52.5 .. I think that after removing this sleeve, the piston would go too deep into the box, unsealing the chamber. any suggestions?
I wish the video outlined the torque spec and process of removing/installing the shock from the bike. Any particular notes?
My shop won’t be able to do the swap to a super deluxe for 2 weeks so I’ll have to do this myself
That info can all be found on the Yeti website! They have great manuals for all of their bikes.
Nice tutorial, I am about to pull the trigger on Yeti SB130, lower built kit, and no Turq frame, can I do it on this one? I think the cheaper built kit has same shock DPX 2?
Yes, all 130s come stock with a DPX2. The process is the same - in fact, the shock in this video came off of a c-series build.
@@brunchride9967 Thank you for quick response, got it! Seems like am going to get this one and I will convert it to "half LR" like you did :)
Hey man great video, but how have you removed the shock, especially the back part of it?
Just unscrew the airsleeve
Do you know how to do this for a Fox float x2? 2021? I’m trying to do this for my Norco sight to change it from 52.5 to 55mm
Yes, it is a slightly more complicated process and requires a special tool from Fox go get the negative air chamber off, but not a complete disassembly. The 2.5mm spacer in the new X2 is 2 separate (yellow) pieces that go around the shaft and is screwed in. We perform this travel adjustment all the time and are happy to help you out. We plan on making a video on the next one that we do! (Could be yours)??
@@brunchride9967 I would send it to you, but I’m from Australia...
Could you make a video on how to correctly disassbemle it? I need to add the spacer instead of remove it with a plier :D
Happy to make a video next time I rebuild a DPX2, however it does require quite a bit more effort as well as some special tooling from Fox
@@brunchride9967 Thanks! I spoke to fox about that and it seems quite impossible to do the nitrogen stuff at home...
hey so I recently opened up my shock to do this (I just got a 2021 SB130 T2) and it appears my spacer is either one solid piece with the aluminum above it or maybe it's stuck in place but I've tried to get it out (gently) with a pick, with need nose pliers. I cannot get this thing out. How stuck was yours? Mine almost seems like it's not a separate 2.5mm spacer there is a line at 2.5mm but it almost looks like it's just that, a line and it's connected to the thicker aluminum spacer/stop above it that's connected to the top of the shock body. I was really hoping to be able to remove this spacer. any thoughts as to what you think or if maybe fox changed something in 2021?
It should just be stuck, sometimes its pretty tough to get loose, but it’s definitely a spacer.
@@brunchride9967 ya thanks I ended up having to tape up the shaft and then use pliers to twist the spacer I then put aluminum tape around half the shaft and slid the spacer over the alum tape to then cut with a pair of edge cutters to get the spacer out. Jobs a done
What will happen if i have accidentally cut the o-ring? Will it have an effect on the shock?
Yes, that is your last line of defense for bottoming out. I would not run the shock without that o-ring
How do you remove the shock?
Why are the spacers put in there? I asked them to remove mine at the shop when I had them install my cascade link, but I don't think he knew exactly what I meant and seemed to think it might fuck with the fork. I think he was thinking I wanted to remove something else though
The spacers are used so that Fox can use the same shock chassis (eye to eye) and get several different stroke lengths, thus simplifying the number of shock chassis they have to manufacture.
Hi! I have just an 130 frame, since yeti didnt sell the 130LR frame, will have the same doing this oparating on the shock, and ading a 160fork? Do you know if should be same geometry? Or i will miss something else?
Did you notice better on downhills, did you loose a lot on the climbs?
And can you check the weight of your yeti?
Thanks for the help
By removing the spacer and putting a 160 fork on the bike, it will have the same geo as the SB130LR. Honestly the 160 fork is more noticeable than the bump in rear travel. But the combo pairs very well together and you won’t lose much if any on the climbs! Every SB130 build is going to weigh different. The 130 is not the lightest frame out there but rides incredible. You can expect 30-34lbs depending on build, tires, etc...
That looks like a cunning plan. An easy way to get a little more travel, and slacken the head angle by 0.5 of a degree for slightly better performance on descents. The seat tube is already pretty steep, so losing half a degree is no biggie.
I might never actually do the mod, but it's great to know it's there if I ever want or need it.
Thanks for the vid (I've subbed)
BTW: I'm 5' 10" (78cm) and pretty much decided on a Large SB130 frame.
What size frame and stem did you pick, how tall are you, and how did it all work out?
Cheers
Thanks for the comment, however this spacer removal will not alter the static heat tube or seat tube angle of the bike. The shock chassis length stays the same (210mm) and only the stroke is increased. The only way to change HTA or STA is to add a longer travel fork (or a cascade link). Hence the LunchRide with a 160mm fork is slacker than the standard SB130 with a 150mm fork. But yes, you will get slightly more travel out of the rear end!
I am 6’0” and the large fits great for me! I am running a 40mm stem. Favorite bike of all time!
@@brunchride9967 Ugh. You are absolutely right. Cheers
I have try this,unfortunately,i got a scratch on my shaft,very small,maynot affect the function,but very annoying😭
No problems so far?
If my bike is a 50 mm stroke and I want to go to 52.5 is that possible? Without knowing I assume mine has 2 2.5 mm spacers?
Without more info, I can’t say either way. Easiest thing to do would be open it up and look! Good luck!
Normally there is a 5mm spacer inside. For expample on the Stumpjumper Evos you can only go to 50 or 55mm.
210X50 210X5.25 210X55 are all same platform???just different inside spacer???
Correct, same chassis
Can you convert a 50mm to a 55mm in the same way?
Should be able to, assuming there is a 5mm or 2x2.5mm spacers in there. Unscrew the air can and see! (Make sure you let all the pressure out first)!
Isn't that plastic spacer not metal?
It looks like plastic, but it’s metal
Does this adding/removing travel spacers also reduce/increase the overall shock eye to eye length?
No, the eye-to-eye remains the same (210mm for the SB130). All the spacer does is limit how far the shock compresses.
@@brunchride9967 Ohh, duh got it, it's a limiter on the fully compressed end, sort of like a larger bump-stop. Thanks
Does this work for the X2 as well?
It depends on the year model of the X2. Some older ones use a similar spacer, but the new ones use a different travel reducer that is easier to take off. However, the overall disassembly process is a little more involved and requires special tools from Fox for the X2
@@brunchride9967 I have the latest version of the X2. It’s off the 21 transition Patrol
Nice! The spacer is actually 2 halves that can be taken out and put pack in without having to completely disassemble the shock or cut anything. It’s a much nicer design. Again, getting to the spacers is a little more complicated and does require special tools from Fox though.
@@brunchride9967 I have the latest version of the DPX2 Factory and was told by my LBS that I need to send my shock back to Fox for conversion. Any write up and diagram of the change?
All DPX2’s are the same configuration. This video shows you how to convert it without having to send the shock to Fox or disassemble it yourself. (This is NOT the recommended way to do, but works if you are careful)
i'm not convinced anyone can actually feel 3mm of extra travel... kinda wanna call bs on anyone that says they can, but hey i'm just an avg joe rider
It's 7mm difference if you want to be knit-picking...
Removing that spacer gains 3mm of shock stroke, not travel. On a bike that has 130mm of travel from a 52.5mm stroke shock, you can calculate the leverage ratio of the frame by dividing the 130mm of travel by the 52.mm of stroke, which equals 2.476, so the leverage ratio is 2.476 to 1. Now you take the 55mm stroke that the shock has without the spacer and multiply it by 2.476, and that equals 136mm of travel.