Thanks, very informative video, just one thing you forgot to mention is when to put the radiator cap back on, and I believe is when you turn on the car or little after that?
Put the cap on before the car gets hot, otherwise fluid will start pouring out! It shouldn't take too long to bleed the air out before it gets hot. And don't EVER take off the cap when the car is already hot either, as it could be like a volcanic eruption in your face ruclips.net/video/o_ggxJh24z8/видео.html
I've been wondering that too. I JUST redid mine here in my garage; in the process of bleeding the air out of the system. Before I started the job I too wondered why there was too much pressure which caused the coolant to leak out of the weakest points- with the plastic housings it is the gasket at the uppermost area, not the actual contract with the block (surprisingly). I just replaced mine with an aluminum one this time. The first time it started leaking at the gasket was around the same time I had the first water pump replacement. It was around the same time...So, I reflected on that time, and wondered if the excess pressure then was due to a worn water pump bearing causing the pump to not circulate the coolant enough to maintain system-wide pressure throughout, thereby holding off pumping in coolant from being distributed by the water pump as it should. This idea concerned me greatly for quite some time as I was already seeing coolant around the [thermostat area] again underneath. But I did some research on the plastic housings and whether there is or isn't merit to the excess pressure issue I DID read that these plastic housings only last so long, are pretty crappy design anyway, and they commonly result in gasket failure sometimes causing some to completely explode if not dealt with at first signs. But identifying the origin of the housing's issue beyond these ideas could be at any other point in the cooling system too though, so there's that. I think I'd probably focus more on the water pump and the crappy housing design first before anything else. BUT... I'm speaking from experience with my 2004 Intrepid though, I've got that notorious 2004 Intrepid se 2.7 with the interference water pump housed behind the timing/front cover against the front of the engine block.
Make sure you have bled the system, as shown at @6:57 in the video. You're probably low on coolant and/or you have air in the line that needs to be pushed out. Having no heat is a verrrrrry common symptom of this.
I have a question. When I bled the air out of my Dodge Charger 2.7... I put the bleeder valve (screw) back on and coolant is still spitting out when I start the car. If the car is off nothing comes out but once I start the car it starts to spit coolant. Any advice on this....... PLEASE
@@nakorsha555 the bleeder valve needs to be on straight (not cross-threaded) and it should be tight (use a wrench, but don't make it too tight). If it's not tight, it is designed for coolant/air to come out - bit.ly/2HDRjeI
Thanks so very much! 4 days ago the mechanic said he would charge me ONLY $600 dollars to do this. He is no longer my mechanic! You saved me!
Thank you my car is no longer smoking
Thanks, very informative video, just one thing you forgot to mention is when to put the radiator cap back on, and I believe is when you turn on the car or little after that?
Put the cap on before the car gets hot, otherwise fluid will start pouring out! It shouldn't take too long to bleed the air out before it gets hot.
And don't EVER take off the cap when the car is already hot either, as it could be like a volcanic eruption in your face
ruclips.net/video/o_ggxJh24z8/видео.html
Thank you. Life saver
@Dennis Knight hmm hope it's the last time because it was a pain in the ass
Mine won't stop leaking at all idk I've tighten it fully and not all the way
Why is it building up so much pressure that it brakes the housing ? Could the problem be the thermostat???????
I've been wondering that too. I JUST redid mine here in my garage; in the process of bleeding the air out of the system. Before I started the job I too wondered why there was too much pressure which caused the coolant to leak out of the weakest points- with the plastic housings it is the gasket at the uppermost area, not the actual contract with the block (surprisingly). I just replaced mine with an aluminum one this time. The first time it started leaking at the gasket was around the same time I had the first water pump replacement. It was around the same time...So, I reflected on that time, and wondered if the excess pressure then was due to a worn water pump bearing causing the pump to not circulate the coolant enough to maintain system-wide pressure throughout, thereby holding off pumping in coolant from being distributed by the water pump as it should. This idea concerned me greatly for quite some time as I was already seeing coolant around the [thermostat area] again underneath. But I did some research on the plastic housings and whether there is or isn't merit to the excess pressure issue I DID read that these plastic housings only last so long, are pretty crappy design anyway, and they commonly result in gasket failure sometimes causing some to completely explode if not dealt with at first signs. But identifying the origin of the housing's issue beyond these ideas could be at any other point in the cooling system too though, so there's that. I think I'd probably focus more on the water pump and the crappy housing design first before anything else. BUT... I'm speaking from experience with my 2004 Intrepid though, I've got that notorious 2004 Intrepid se 2.7 with the interference water pump housed behind the timing/front cover against the front of the engine block.
I changed mine now the heater will not work
Make sure you have bled the system, as shown at @6:57 in the video. You're probably low on coolant and/or you have air in the line that needs to be pushed out. Having no heat is a verrrrrry common symptom of this.
@@loonhunt thank u I got the air out thanks
I have a question. When I bled the air out of my Dodge Charger 2.7... I put the bleeder valve (screw) back on and coolant is still spitting out when I start the car. If the car is off nothing comes out but once I start the car it starts to spit coolant. Any advice on this....... PLEASE
@@nakorsha555 the bleeder valve needs to be on straight (not cross-threaded) and it should be tight (use a wrench, but don't make it too tight). If it's not tight, it is designed for coolant/air to come out - bit.ly/2HDRjeI
@@nakorsha555 have the same issue rn my car just sprayed coolant all over my engine and had it smoking like crazy....
Don't say thanks to me: Find Dorman 902-301HP and install it forever.
Thanks- I added it to the video description
Yep! That's the part number to the updated Dorman full metal unit.
What took did u use to take of the two screws in da front around the pipe?
a socket wrench did the trick for me. i don't remember the exact size, but my standard socket wrench set had a socket that fit the bolts