I would like to have my own channel on you tube rebuilding an rs but it would of ready been up for the last ten years 😂. Great to see other guys work which helps on my rebuild.
Some great progress I’ve just binged all 25 of this build I’m doing a old Austin maestro and a rover SD3 keep up the good work I’ve subbed for future updates
Good videos, I will watch the lot. Keep up the good work. Its going to be a lot of hard graft but definitely worth doing because it’s a rare and valuable car now. They rust so bad, I heard a rumour that the steel ford made the panels from in that era was made from recycled crisp packets. 20 years ago a friend of mine had one was nearly as rotten as yours, failed mot needed loads of welding he scrapped it for £500, offered it to me but it was an absolute banger. I love them though and I’m quite jealous, kicking myself for not getting one years back because they are so pricey nowadays.
Really enjoying the project Chris. I think I might be inclined to weld some bracing in before you cut out any more, particularly as the car is supported on stands., but like you say, it could be a lot worse definitely. Look forward to the next instalment.
Thanks Bob, yes I think I will brace the door frame. A few people have mentioned it so I’ll definitely take the advice on board and get it sorted out. I glad you are enjoying the build 👍
Usually the chassi rail across to the A/sill will be toast or close to toast - it's not too bad to make from scratch, but generally the drivers floor will need work too. Here, even pattern RH wings are hard to get - you can get LH ones.. go figure.. The inner wings usually need work to the tops & here/there. Yours is unusually solid. Up above the drivers footwell, where the fusebox resides close to the firewall is a real proper achilles heel on these - to do the repair "properly" the fusebox has to come out, with the entire loom.... which is a sod of a job. I tend to "cheat" here as the one cheat I do on these - I cut out the inevitable rot & slide a repair section in tight under the fusebox, weld the repair section (I make it myself) without moving the fusebox/wiring. You have to chop off & then refit the mounting bracket that lives above that area in order to get at the grot, but that's no big deal. Here anyway. you can't get a new fusebox unit for love nor money, so leaving it well alone is the sensible if not "perfect" option. I leave 'em alone anyway. Generally, them floor-pan panels, aftermarket sill sections blah blah will not fit well as supplied - there will be a lot of fettling involved to get them to mate well with the original panels. How the floors/sills interact is also totally different compared to factory. One "whinge " - not really a whinge, just a bit of advice Chris, is it's better to weld in a really stout door brace before removing as much metal as you have here - sh1t will move about... I have a triangulated home-made one I weld to the a pillar/b pillar that locks them dimensionally. I learnt to do that the hard way - stuff moved... It's just a bit of peace of mind that when you get done welding, stuff will have stayed where it's meant to.. I was doing a really rotted sunroof section on one today - now those are "Fun" - but I am winning at it. Gonna sandblast the cut-off roof tomorrow(I separated the layers this evening/welded in the repair bits I made - blast the lot, sort it more, then back onto the car with it.. Huge Fun. :-) Nobody else much fancied going near it.. I did..
Hi James, thanks for the comment and for the heads up on the fuse box, I’ve not yet had a poke around in the fuse box area, I’m hoping it will be ok🤞. I’ve had a look around the battery tray and there is work needed in that area so will move on to this area once the floor is done. I will need to remove the dash to work on the tray so I’m sure if the fuse box needs work it will be clear once the dash is out. Yes I think I will weld in a couple of braces for extra support around the door frame. I was planning on doing the work on the floor in stages so once one area was welded back in, I would then move on to the next section so minimal metal was missing at any one point.
I would like to have my own channel on you tube rebuilding an rs but it would of ready been up for the last ten years 😂.
Great to see other guys work which helps on my rebuild.
Thank you👍
Some great progress I’ve just binged all 25 of this build I’m doing a old Austin maestro and a rover SD3 keep up the good work I’ve subbed for future updates
Great thank you, I’m glad you are enjoying the videos. I also have an MG Maestro Turbo.
Good videos, I will watch the lot. Keep up the good work. Its going to be a lot of hard graft but definitely worth doing because it’s a rare and valuable car now. They rust so bad, I heard a rumour that the steel ford made the panels from in that era was made from recycled crisp packets. 20 years ago a friend of mine had one was nearly as rotten as yours, failed mot needed loads of welding he scrapped it for £500, offered it to me but it was an absolute banger. I love them though and I’m quite jealous, kicking myself for not getting one years back because they are so pricey nowadays.
Really enjoying the project Chris. I think I might be inclined to weld some bracing in before you cut out any more, particularly as the car is supported on stands., but like you say, it could be a lot worse definitely. Look forward to the next instalment.
Thanks Bob, yes I think I will brace the door frame. A few people have mentioned it so I’ll definitely take the advice on board and get it sorted out. I glad you are enjoying the build 👍
Usually the chassi rail across to the A/sill will be toast or close to toast - it's not too bad to make from scratch, but generally the drivers floor will need work too. Here, even pattern RH wings are hard to get - you can get LH ones.. go figure.. The inner wings usually need work to the tops & here/there. Yours is unusually solid.
Up above the drivers footwell, where the fusebox resides close to the firewall is a real proper achilles heel on these - to do the repair "properly" the fusebox has to come out, with the entire loom.... which is a sod of a job. I tend to "cheat" here as the one cheat I do on these - I cut out the inevitable rot & slide a repair section in tight under the fusebox, weld the repair section (I make it myself) without moving the fusebox/wiring. You have to chop off & then refit the mounting bracket that lives above that area in order to get at the grot, but that's no big deal. Here anyway. you can't get a new fusebox unit for love nor money, so leaving it well alone is the sensible if not "perfect" option. I leave 'em alone anyway.
Generally, them floor-pan panels, aftermarket sill sections blah blah will not fit well as supplied - there will be a lot of fettling involved to get them to mate well with the original panels. How the floors/sills interact is also totally different compared to factory.
One "whinge " - not really a whinge, just a bit of advice Chris, is it's better to weld in a really stout door brace before removing as much metal as you have here - sh1t will move about... I have a triangulated home-made one I weld to the a pillar/b pillar that locks them dimensionally. I learnt to do that the hard way - stuff moved... It's just a bit of peace of mind that when you get done welding, stuff will have stayed where it's meant to.. I was doing a really rotted sunroof section on one today - now those are "Fun" - but I am winning at it. Gonna sandblast the cut-off roof tomorrow(I separated the layers this evening/welded in the repair bits I made - blast the lot, sort it more, then back onto the car with it.. Huge Fun. :-) Nobody else much fancied going near it.. I did..
Hi James, thanks for the comment and for the heads up on the fuse box, I’ve not yet had a poke around in the fuse box area, I’m hoping it will be ok🤞. I’ve had a look around the battery tray and there is work needed in that area so will move on to this area once the floor is done. I will need to remove the dash to work on the tray so I’m sure if the fuse box needs work it will be clear once the dash is out.
Yes I think I will weld in a couple of braces for extra support around the door frame. I was planning on doing the work on the floor in stages so once one area was welded back in, I would then move on to the next section so minimal metal was missing at any one point.
Also good luck with the sunroof, my roof is not showing any rust in that area so I’m hoping it will be good 👍
@@ModernClassics81 Sunroof done now, but it was an absolute pig of a job TBH. Very difficult.
That's a bit of a mess Chris 😮 You can soon put it right. You can get harf floor pans that run front to back instead of two floor pans.
Thanks Sid, yes I’m glad I have remove the sill so I can cut out all the bad bits and put it right so I know it will be sound for a few more years.