I am really, really sorry. I was not being fair or properly appreciative for your benevolence. i have learned a lot from your videos. Thank you for spending your time making them.
That’s awesome! I totally intended this to be a true master class series. No one can accuse me of not being thorough with my classes. And yes always coffee. It’s the fuel for my videos.
Mate, I cannot thank you enough with these tips. Was tearing my hair out on big prints that'd always go haywire with tree supports getting knocked over, curling corners etc...the raft setup was just what the doctor ordered. Can retire the can of hairspray that just gunked everything up.
Appreciate this! I was trying to print a paint rack and the raft was leaving out some parts that were literally just floating which was the whole reason i wanted a raft in the first place. Raft smoothing was my key to getting a useable raft. Thanks!
I have been having trouble printing small parts on my glass bed for ever, they kept coming off mid print or the corner would lift. This is exactly what I needed and would highly recommend a raft to anyone who is printing small intricate parts with a glass bed. Thank you for the very informative video.
I've been using a Brim with a distance of .2 or .3 mm away. I find that the brim still makes contact with my first layer and has helped me a lot when printing things like fingers on a lizard that have a tendency to warp, while still being easy to remove, with the small gap I can just pull them off in most cases without even needing any tools. Sure, it makes sense that having no gap would help the most with bed adhesion, but I think there is still a benefit to having a small gap while making cleanup easier.
Thanks so much for this information. I've never used a raft before because I didn't know how they worked. I've used brims before when I had adhesion issues but don't really like them. Now that you have explained rafts so well I will try using them.
Thank you so much for all your videos, have gone through the beginners now onto the advanced. Followed the best settings profile and have noticed a remarkable difference in prints, the only setting I didn’t alternate to much was the speed only dropped it by 10% but was just the right balance.
That’s fantastic! I’m glad your getting great results. We are almost in the middle of the series today infill settings comes out. And then 5 more Cura videos in this series. Hopefully the rest of them will help you even more.
Example: a phone holder with rounded off side edges printed on its side. A brim at 0 distance to touching point would be squashed due to the greater height of the brim. Having set ie 0.02 away would still connect but with less of a squash. Almost like a mini support to the curve.
What I got: Support Brim: is crucial for small & tiny support structures. Brim Replaces Supports : replaces some of support material in the 1st layer. Raft Smoothing: connecting raft for diff parts. Air Gap: space bet. Raft and Part. Initial Z overlap: setting the 2nd layer a lil bit lower to adhere better to the 1st layer when using Raft. Raft consist of 3 parts bottom, middle & top layers: - when you've 2 top layers it ensures that the very top layer is very nice & smooth as the first one prints on gaps. Raft Top Layer Thickness: thickness of each layer of Raft top layers. Raft Top Line Width: the width of the line of Raft's top layers, usually it would be the same as diameter of Nozzle. Raft Top Spacing: gaps or distance between each line of Raft's Top layers, usually it would be the same as diameter of Nozzle. Raft Middle Line Width: shall be high to lay down ton of filament to ensure better adhesion. Bottom Line Width: it's higher as it pushes a lot more filament to have a very wide layer. Speed: - Base: slow as possible, to ensure enough filament is pushed. Fan: You don't want to turn on fan on Raft as it cools it down causing shrinkage thus bad adhesion.
I have played about with brims and rafts..... usually successfully..... but USING A GLUE STICK has been a complete revelation! I've been printing for 2-3 years and started using a glue stick last week. All the filaments that gave me adhesion problems have started behaving perfectly! I haven't used a raft on any of the small prints that I was previously having to use rafts for since I started using 'scotch' brand version of Pritt. It seems like admitting defeat, but try some glue instead of rafts..... it'll save ages and make like just nicer!
Just want to say, I rarely print with anything, the way I set mine up is with a layer height that work for all, 0.2mm is great for me. Then I baby step down till it’s just right and I have also recently found that initial flow rate was best set lower for me. I only print abs and run a bed mesh level before starting also.
This is just an amateur guess but I imagine the brim distance is not meant to be anything over your wall width, I believe it's meant to ease the removal of the brim. Try setting it to 0.2 and see if that makes the brim easier to peel off.
Thanks For The Info!!!! I Should Have Watched This Sooner!!!! Let's Just Say I Hated Both Of My Filament Printers This Passed Week!!!! I Got The Ender 3 Pro!!! I Was Very Happy My Prints Finally Survived!!! Now I Keep Getting The Temp Code & Then It Yells!!! Both Printers Are The Same System (Marlin, So They Sound The Same) 👍😎🤯🙃💯😱 😅😁
Great information on video but you left out that on a skirt there's actually skirt height which I didn't know was the setting until it kept printing a skirt on three layers
Just started printing. Raket was just fine. Bud for the plantary gearbox the raft i good never remove. So iam going to try fine tuning the layers with 0.12.0re 0.2. I think i go for the second one.thanks
I took a break from Cura and I was printing bases for my models, They had a bottom layer that covered the entire surface area of the prints that provided amazing adhesion. Now after coming back it wiped my profiles which I had back up thankfully, but I can't seem to find the settings to do that option again. Anyone ever came across this issue? I feel like I'm going mad as the supports don't print all that well at all no matter what i do.
Good video. I have been having trouble with that good old first layer. Did everything to try and improve it. Even have the G10 bed plate which is suppose to really work good. Just keeping it clean does not do it. I finally became a believer in purple glue stick. Went to Amazon to just try a few sticks. The first time I spread it out, did not use enough. Spread again on top of the original spread. This time my model struck down perfectly. Had tried the white glue stick but never had good luck with it. Another thing happened when I did a skirt around the model. The skirt did not stay 10mm outside the model but took a short path under the model. Had to print without the skirt. This also happened using a brim. Same path. It was not because of not sticking. Even in preview mode it shows the short cut. Any ideas... Thanks for helping us novices....
Hi Chris, first of all congratulations on your video's, you are amazing educator and really take the time to explain things. I do have a question, when i use a skirt or brim it doesnt stick well to my heated bedplate. When i use raft it works like a charm so i was wondering, can you use the settings for the first two layers of a raft to a regular print without skirt or brim? Where would the alterations be needed as this works well everytime with a raft. Kind regards from Ghent in Belgium, Gert
Il could need some help here, when I finished my print and I wantto fit the bearing in his place, it did not fit, the stand where it belongs is in diameter to big, I don't kno how to fix this
i have airgap at the defualt and half the time it comes off ok and other times its worse than your 1.2 airgap and sometimes thats within the same single model. and help would be greatly appreciated thanks
Do you think your settings would change any when your layer height is .08 or .6 ( as in using extremes in the layer height).... OK, I think I see what is going on. I am setting the layer height in theses settings to take precedence over the actual print settings for the STL file....Is that right?
I hear the term 'mouse ears' to help with corners of model. In fact I keep reading there is no need for brim and use mouse ears only. But you never mention anything about mouse ears..
I swear by the raft, but sometimes you have to print something so big it only fits diagonally, so you can't get a raft on the plate. I've been experimenting with non-software adhesion, using the glue sticks and so forth, but I'm just now experimenting with a new method that may or may not be genius.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Alright, so I've done some experimentation this weekend, instead of using glue sticks, using some Pebeo drawing gum (liquid fisquet), and despite still having warping issues due to the dimensions of the object, the printer location and the standard quality settings, here's my findings: Pro: - It's liquid latex so you can just paint it right onto the build plate with a sponge brush - Prints seem to release very easily from it despite the fact that it's gummy and things also stick to it (your mileage may vary) - You can reuse it seemingly without issue - It can be peeled off at any time just by rubbing the edge hard with your thumb - You can also keep it around it for masking during painting, since that's what it's actually for (watercolors) Con: - Smells when wet - Doesn't seem to improve adhesion any more than glue sticks in my settings - WILL stick to previous glue stick spots very well I think I'm going to continue using it for a bit when I have better things to print and keep experimenting with it, because not having to replace the glue every time sounds wicked convenient.
@@badatgames4127 That is quite interesting. I'll have to look into that and maybe test it out on a few prints myself. Thanks for letting me know how it went.
I like the raft because I never get the warp. My issue though with a raft is.... doing a large print, a raft shows my model is to big but with brim it fits.
Great day when I found your Cura tutorials. You are a great teacher.
Doug your gunna make me blush. 😅 seriously so glad my vids are helping you.
I am really, really sorry. I was not being fair or properly appreciative for your benevolence. i have learned a lot from your videos. Thank you for spending your time making them.
This is community college level tutelage right here! So appreciate the work you put into this series. Now? COFFEE, COFFEE, COFFEE! ☕☕☕
That’s awesome! I totally intended this to be a true master class series. No one can accuse me of not being thorough with my classes. And yes always coffee. It’s the fuel for my videos.
Mate, I cannot thank you enough with these tips. Was tearing my hair out on big prints that'd always go haywire with tree supports getting knocked over, curling corners etc...the raft setup was just what the doctor ordered. Can retire the can of hairspray that just gunked everything up.
Appreciate this! I was trying to print a paint rack and the raft was leaving out some parts that were literally just floating which was the whole reason i wanted a raft in the first place. Raft smoothing was my key to getting a useable raft. Thanks!
I have been having trouble printing small parts on my glass bed for ever, they kept coming off mid print or the corner would lift. This is exactly what I needed and would highly recommend a raft to anyone who is printing small intricate parts with a glass bed. Thank you for the very informative video.
I've been using a Brim with a distance of .2 or .3 mm away. I find that the brim still makes contact with my first layer and has helped me a lot when printing things like fingers on a lizard that have a tendency to warp, while still being easy to remove, with the small gap I can just pull them off in most cases without even needing any tools. Sure, it makes sense that having no gap would help the most with bed adhesion, but I think there is still a benefit to having a small gap while making cleanup easier.
Smart!
Thanks so much for this information. I've never used a raft before because I didn't know how they worked. I've used brims before when I had adhesion issues but don't really like them. Now that you have explained rafts so well I will try using them.
Great! I’m glad I could help! Good luck!
Dude your videos saved my prints tremendously. I appreciate everything you do. 🤙🏽
Thank you so much for all your videos, have gone through the beginners now onto the advanced. Followed the best settings profile and have noticed a remarkable difference in prints, the only setting I didn’t alternate to much was the speed only dropped it by 10% but was just the right balance.
That’s fantastic! I’m glad your getting great results. We are almost in the middle of the series today infill settings comes out. And then 5 more Cura videos in this series. Hopefully the rest of them will help you even more.
I can't believe that you only got 160 likes. This information is gold. Thanks.
Mead is my favorite dude. I love someone who is thorough with knowledge. Huge help man! Thanks🤓
Wow Favorite Dude! Well this is my Favorite Comment! Thanks man! I'm glad i could help you!
Example: a phone holder with rounded off side edges printed on its side. A brim at 0 distance to touching point would be squashed due to the greater height of the brim. Having set ie 0.02 away would still connect but with less of a squash. Almost like a mini support to the curve.
What I got:
Support Brim: is crucial for small & tiny support structures.
Brim Replaces Supports : replaces some of support material in the 1st layer.
Raft Smoothing: connecting raft for diff parts.
Air Gap: space bet. Raft and Part.
Initial Z overlap: setting the 2nd layer a lil bit lower to adhere better to the 1st layer when using Raft.
Raft consist of 3 parts bottom, middle & top layers:
- when you've 2 top layers it ensures that the very top layer is very nice & smooth as the first one prints on gaps.
Raft Top Layer Thickness: thickness of each layer of Raft top layers.
Raft Top Line Width: the width of the line of Raft's top layers, usually it would be the same as diameter of Nozzle.
Raft Top Spacing: gaps or distance between each line of Raft's Top layers, usually it would be the same as diameter of Nozzle.
Raft Middle Line Width: shall be high to lay down ton of filament to ensure better adhesion.
Bottom Line Width: it's higher as it pushes a lot more filament to have a very wide layer.
Speed:
- Base: slow as possible, to ensure enough filament is pushed.
Fan: You don't want to turn on fan on Raft as it cools it down causing shrinkage thus bad adhesion.
This video was informative and was exactly what I was looking for. So many other video's just do the settings and don't actually explain. Thank you!
you are the best teacher on here have learned alot with your well explained tuturials
Answering all my cura Questions, working on a Artillery SidewinderX2, with Cura splicing software
Thank you so much for these. I'm just working through these. Will show financial support soon. Very helpful thank you
No worries I’m glad I could help you!
I have played about with brims and rafts..... usually successfully..... but USING A GLUE STICK has been a complete revelation!
I've been printing for 2-3 years and started using a glue stick last week. All the filaments that gave me adhesion problems have started behaving perfectly! I haven't used a raft on any of the small prints that I was previously having to use rafts for since I started using 'scotch' brand version of Pritt. It seems like admitting defeat, but try some glue instead of rafts..... it'll save ages and make like just nicer!
Just want to say, I rarely print with anything, the way I set mine up is with a layer height that work for all, 0.2mm is great for me. Then I baby step down till it’s just right and I have also recently found that initial flow rate was best set lower for me.
I only print abs and run a bed mesh level before starting also.
This is just an amateur guess but I imagine the brim distance is not meant to be anything over your wall width, I believe it's meant to ease the removal of the brim. Try setting it to 0.2 and see if that makes the brim easier to peel off.
As usual....BRILLIANT INFO!!!!
Thanks For The Info!!!! I Should Have Watched This Sooner!!!! Let's Just Say I Hated Both Of My Filament Printers This Passed Week!!!! I Got The Ender 3 Pro!!! I Was Very Happy My Prints Finally Survived!!! Now I Keep Getting The Temp Code & Then It Yells!!! Both Printers Are The Same System (Marlin, So They Sound The Same) 👍😎🤯🙃💯😱 😅😁
Sounds like a thermal runaway if your getting a heat issue. Which means your thermistor could be going bad.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Thanks Chris!!!
Love your content thanks! and I must sorry but I feel compel to say seeing that mustache is like see the sun ...
Great videos!! I just bought a FLSun Racer
Great Video. Was really helpful
Awesome glad it helped!
Great information on video but you left out that on a skirt there's actually skirt height which I didn't know was the setting until it kept printing a skirt on three layers
Just started printing.
Raket was just fine.
Bud for the plantary gearbox the raft i good never remove.
So iam going to try fine tuning the layers with 0.12.0re 0.2.
I think i go for the second one.thanks
Great i depth explanation.
Spot On, Ta
Thanks for all the info!
Great informational video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, super informative. Thanks!
you can change the brim distance to 0,1 or something if you have trouble with ripping it off afterwards. (too much adhesion to the model)
I took a break from Cura and I was printing bases for my models, They had a bottom layer that covered the entire surface area of the prints that provided amazing adhesion. Now after coming back it wiped my profiles which I had back up thankfully, but I can't seem to find the settings to do that option again. Anyone ever came across this issue? I feel like I'm going mad as the supports don't print all that well at all no matter what i do.
Good video. I have been having trouble with that good old first layer. Did everything to try and improve it. Even have the G10 bed plate which is suppose to really work good. Just keeping it clean does not do it. I finally became a believer in purple glue stick. Went to Amazon to just try a few sticks. The first time I spread it out, did not use enough. Spread again on top of the original spread. This time my model struck down perfectly. Had tried the white glue stick but never had good luck with it. Another thing happened when I did a skirt around the model. The skirt did not stay 10mm outside the model but took a short path under the model. Had to print without the skirt. This also happened using a brim. Same path. It was not because of not sticking. Even in preview mode it shows the short cut. Any ideas... Thanks for helping us novices....
I can't figure out why my brim lines aren't touching the part or each line, there's a visible distance between them.
Hi Chris, first of all congratulations on your video's, you are amazing educator and really take the time to explain things.
I do have a question, when i use a skirt or brim it doesnt stick well to my heated bedplate. When i use raft it works like a charm so i was wondering, can you use the settings for the first two layers of a raft to a regular print without skirt or brim? Where would the alterations be needed as this works well everytime with a raft. Kind regards from Ghent in Belgium, Gert
So you could use the same settings it might take a little tweaking after that but that would give you a good starting point.
Is there a setting to make my raft come out lager from my print? I want it to come a fw more inches away from the print so I can build taller
great channel, I sub'ed
my work Will Not stay on the bed plate... 5/10 minutes in and it's sliding all over the bed plate Please help me
Il could need some help here, when I finished my print and I wantto fit the bearing in his place, it did not fit, the stand where it belongs is in diameter to big, I don't kno how to fix this
The problem im facing is that my model dosnt stick on the raft even after setting my airgap to 0
i have airgap at the defualt and half the time it comes off ok and other times its worse than your 1.2 airgap and sometimes thats within the same single model. and help would be greatly appreciated thanks
my god you are a great professor !!!!!!! amazing !!!!!! thank you so much !!!!!!
😂🤣😂 professor is a new one haven’t been called that one yet. I’m glad I could help you. Also the midterms are next week. 😂
Do you think your settings would change any when your layer height is .08 or .6 ( as in using extremes in the layer height).... OK, I think I see what is going on.
I am setting the layer height in theses settings to take precedence over the actual print settings for the STL file....Is that right?
I’m having issues where the raft is welding to the print, even with an air gap of .3
I hear the term 'mouse ears' to help with corners of model. In fact I keep reading there is no need for brim and use mouse ears only. But you never mention anything about mouse ears..
I swear by the raft, but sometimes you have to print something so big it only fits diagonally, so you can't get a raft on the plate. I've been experimenting with non-software adhesion, using the glue sticks and so forth, but I'm just now experimenting with a new method that may or may not be genius.
I swear by glue sticks. Just gives me that little something extra. You’ll have to let me know if your experiments turn out genius. 😅
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Alright, so I've done some experimentation this weekend, instead of using glue sticks, using some Pebeo drawing gum (liquid fisquet), and despite still having warping issues due to the dimensions of the object, the printer location and the standard quality settings, here's my findings:
Pro:
- It's liquid latex so you can just paint it right onto the build plate with a sponge brush
- Prints seem to release very easily from it despite the fact that it's gummy and things also stick to it (your mileage may vary)
- You can reuse it seemingly without issue
- It can be peeled off at any time just by rubbing the edge hard with your thumb
- You can also keep it around it for masking during painting, since that's what it's actually for (watercolors)
Con:
- Smells when wet
- Doesn't seem to improve adhesion any more than glue sticks in my settings
- WILL stick to previous glue stick spots very well
I think I'm going to continue using it for a bit when I have better things to print and keep experimenting with it, because not having to replace the glue every time sounds wicked convenient.
@@badatgames4127 That is quite interesting. I'll have to look into that and maybe test it out on a few prints myself. Thanks for letting me know how it went.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Cool, looking forward to hearing about the results.
23:17
Now try that with PETG >;)
"they're the same settings but they're just different values' What?🤔
I like the raft because I never get the warp. My issue though with a raft is.... doing a large print, a raft shows my model is to big but with brim it fits.