@@90FF1 No just facts, a cotter pin is a stepped headless bolt with a tapered flat down one side. They were used for decades to hold the pedal cranks onto the pedal shaft on bicycles, I guess in Merica they have no name for these. A split pin is a pin that is split. If you want pedantic try teaching an American how to tackle mathS or to measure RPMs
@@robames1293 Not to belabor the point. For example Germans might call it "Federstecker" Italians, "copiglia" In my dad's language, he would call it a "zavlačka" To quote "The Bard", "What's in a name? That which we call a rose, by any other name would smell as sweet". Oxford English Dictionary : Cotter (n) A pin, key, wedge, or bolt which fits into a hole and fastens something in its place. I have a small table top lathe that uses a headless tapered bolt to assure the head stock is fixed tightly and is square to the bed. Tho it is indeed 'cottering', according to Oxford, I wouldn't characterize it as a pin. Hoping we remain Bracket Factory, petrol head friends. Cheers from - you guessed it - the USA. 🙂
Really impressed with your patience disassembling that water pump! 60 years ago as an apprentice, it was always our kop to refurbish these water pumps from the 1920's onwards! That packing gland principal was always the Achilles heal because of lack of maintenance! Brilliant job! 👏 Really enjoyed watching you rebuild that Chris!
Absolutely brilliant. Great old school engineering. (you and the original manufacturers) Just a thought, you could have just built up the 'Screw' head with weld, re-machined, avoiding the dreaded 'thread cutting'.
I am really happy that you are going through this rebuild. Most people would not know what is involved in disassembly, repairs and reassembly. Your patience is truly a great element for success. Carry on Brother, from Litchfield County Ct...
Great job Chris! Man did beat the water pump! I might have waited for the new packing to arrive, but you need to get videos out! This episode was more ‘gasket factory’! Looking great, can’t wait for next startup.
@@boydsargeant7496 yes I did consider waiting… but I reckon I could have that pump off and in bits in about 15 mins now… so I don’t mind fitting the new seal if push comes to shove! Now itching to get the rad on!
That is a restoration job on it's own! And a lovely job you made of it, I hope you made the new screw from stainless, it will make it much easier to remove in future. I think the packing you put back will be better than the new material you ordered, and the graphite coating will make it run and seal much better. I always apply a liberal amount of copper slip to all parts of a water pump assembly, it just stops the water getting in to the threads. A nice Christmas project! Chris B.
@@thebracketfactory Ha Ha! That will be fine, with the shielded bearings and proper old packing you will get no leaks! Hope you enjoyed the New Year celebrations, it is a bit cold down here in Southern France to go outside, keep that Bengal inside in the warm, ours is stuck by the wood burner! Chris B.
I'm so glad this engine landed in your capable hands. Great workmanship right there. From memory rope seals should be soaked in oil overnight prior to install which enables them to swell and seal..though I'm not 100% sure if thats in all cases...It came up a treat and look forward to hearing it run again
Brilliant. Can’t wait to hear about that. I have. 1933 triumph chassis I’m hoping to start the build on soon. I may even dip my toe into videoing it 👍🏻
That’s a great bit of refurbishment going on there 👍 v-much looking forward to seeing the cooling system solution and subsequent tuning of carburettors and timing when you can have sustained running.
Thanks for another excellent video. I'm so pleased when you say that you will give things a good clean before working on them: all too often I see videos where people just bash away on filthy components risking failure to see what is actually needed and also getting contamination into engines, gearboxes etc. The engine is shaping up really well and I hope that this year you will locate a suitable chassis. There's still a long way to go, but I hope to see a finished Behemoth roaring up a hillclimb, or round a track, sometime. All best wishes to you and yours for 2025.
Brilliant design on the water pump and a brilliant rebuild! Tbh i would have removed the inner bearing shields and made use of the grease nipple as the sealed for life bearings generally have enough grease to ensure that you will be buying replacements in a few years time! Although you can fit the stuffing box type seal first and pass the shaft through it, the spanner and screw driver was an excellent work around! Thoroughly enjoyed watching that! Phil
Cheers Phil! I was thinking about the stuffing box assembly sequence - I might make a tapered cone that fits over the end of the shaft so that the lip of the shaft doesn't catch when I push it through.. next time though!
I've learned, the hard way, to always open the new "sealed" bearings to inspect. They never have proper grease from the factory. I clean and grease with quality grease if reinstalling the seal. In this case I'd remove seals and use as designed.
I am sure we used Copaslip grease on components in high pressure hot water systems used to heat the paint ovens in the old Vauxhall car plant. It prevented corrosion, galling, and kept some of the rust at bay, so ideal for using on the bolts securing parts of the water pump. Watched from start to finish, I thought at one point Mr.Tweed was going to be engaged for an impellor bolt.
@@robmunn3716 haha,, well Mr (I love making Bolts) Tweed would have been my first ‘phone a friend’ choice but I think he has rather got his hands full with his latest project!
Coming on well Chris, you could give the old impeller screw a new lease of life by welding up the top completely, turn the excess off in the lathe and cut a new slot in it, I use old gunwash for cleaning enegine parts really cuts through the grease also very handy for alloy parts as you can leave them to soak and it leaches out the oil which is also handy if the parts need to be welded, I get mine 5 gallons a time from a local paintshop and they are more than happy to give it away as it saves them the problem of disposal, the used brushwash can then be disposed of at the local recycling centre, if left for a while any paint particles will drop to the bottom and the clear clean can be decanted off the top.
Good progress, Chris, I wish I was as meticulous. Our cars were often one stop from the scrapyard, so I learned how to bodge at an early age. Boiling the thermostat took me back to the 60's with my Dad getting stick from Mum for using her kitchen stove. A cheap video for me this time as I've got one of those ratcheting tap wrenches!
My procedure for fitting the starter ring gear to a flywheel -1) Set up Workmate in kitchen 2) Remove pizza from freezer 3) Turn on oven and set to req.temp to cook pizza. Place pizza in oven. 4) Place flywheel on Workmate having removed old ring gear. 5) When pizza is done, remove from oven and switch off, Place new ring gear (thoroughly degreased!) in oven. 6) Eat pizza. 7) Remove ring gear from oven and drop onto flywheel. a slight tap from a hide mallet or piece of wood may be necessary. 8) Remove all evidence of domestic transgressions from kitchen leaving it not only schpick but also schpan. Well, it worked about twelve years ago with my '94 Skoda Favvy anyway......
Hi Chris. Never thought I'd be so fascinated and entertained by a water pump rebuild. Excellent content. Brilliant channel. You and Brian are among the best on snoozetube. Happy New Year from the emerald Isle.
Fascinating episode, Chris. A very detailed, but never boring restoration of what is now a pretty much throw away item ( it certainly was on my MGBs ). I love the detail you go into and am amazed at the transformation the engine is going through. Happy New Year.
Wonderful, creative and imaginative fettling. To see you do this is captivating - and gives me lots of ideas for 'work-around' methodology. I'm looking forward to the next ep.!
I changed a water pump, barely had the tools to do the job with us. I used locktight to glue the gasket on . An adjustable spanner to get the bolts and channel lock pliers to remove the clamp, you would think a fellow would carry a screwdriver, if they carried the other stuff! It worked out fine , never leaked , the gasket curled up worsr than a potato chip it was inside a plastic tube rolled up. It needed to be glued on.
Happy New Year Chris! Love your videos. Very much in awe of your engineering skills but largely find it great therapy to watch you working, pretty much my equivalent of funny cat clips, and tbf, you do even include a bonus bit of cat action ever so often!
Now THAT is one fine water pump. Repairable, maintainable, and built to last. Fine job and a fitting restoration. With a good quality coolant, this jewel should be pumping for a long time. Ingenuity on display in creating the screwdriver blade from a spade bit! Great editing - as always.
Nice project. Good episode. Suggestion: when you put the water pump back together, use some fine emory cloth tape to polish the packing surface. And the use some "Vasoline" in the surfaces and into the rope so it'll be lubed while it's running w minimum water flow (drip). Also suggest you use some RTV on the threads of the impeller. I'd use some "Never Seize" on the threads, then wiped off and RTV will seal the threads and act as poor mans thread locker. And allow it all to unscrew pretty easily 😊
Cheers Denis. When I edited it together I couldn't get it below 45 mins without losing part of the story, so I was a bit worried it might be a bit long and boring... But seems quite a lot of people liked it!
Very thorough Mr Bracket, as we've come to expect on every job you undertake. Well done and thanks for the video. Still itching to see more on the A7 though!😁
Nice job....! I guess you could use a centre punch on the pulley to "lock" the pulley screw slot to stop it coming loose - similar to Austin 7 oil gallery plug in the crankcase..?
The rope seal is same as on a boat output shaft ( canal boat ) keep it greased and don't let it go dry out or over tighten it you will have no probs 😎🤘
@@thebracketfactory There's lots of different sizes and grades of graphite impregnated seal rope .I was taught to install it back in 1973 and at the time I thought it was an archaic idea. 5 decades later i am still fitting it. 😁😁 A lot of cars like Dodge were still using it for water pump seals into the 1930's too.
Another really great video, I’m surprised there’s no flinger ring on the pump shaft between the gland and bearings, and doesn’t appear to have ever had one . I know it’s a faff stripping again, but if you do when replacing the packing it’s likely worth making a flinger ring even if it’s a pvc disc. There again I also know it’s very easy to get carried away ‘improving’ stuff, next thing would be a modern compound sprung seal🤪🤪😆 Thanks again for a great video, love to see it having a water cooled run and tune,👍👌😊😊
That pump is a great piece of engineering in fact greatly over engineered like the rest of the engine, I wasn't really surprised to see metric bearings used as in my experiences mostly with 50s Nash's the Americans surprisingly quite often used metric dimensioned components. One point I would make is the use of copper grease inside of the pump, most metals are sacrificial to copper especially in the presence of water, copper anti seize compounds use a low melting point grease as their base which is not waterproof and is designed to dry out when hot and its original intended use was for things like exhaust manifold nuts and studs. Over the course of my 50+ years of engine and machine building Ive had and seen some terrible problems caused by its usually inappropriate use, much better would have been to use a waterproof grease such as CL or even the lanolin grease you were using. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Cheers Grant! I actually uses graphite grease on that seal, (and a smear of copper on the thread) but I may well end up swapping that seal for another (new) one if it leaks too badly!
Heat is usually your best friend,the hotter the better,rope seal is easily replaced,just need the right size,don’t over tighten,even greased up it will still chew up a shaft,happy new year bud,👍
Try the model engineering supplies for the packing material. It's usually sold as graphited yarn and is used for packing the glands on steam engine piston rods so would be ok for a water pump. Two suppliers to try are Macc models and AJ Reeves
It might be worth modifying the pump to a modern ceramic/carbon seal. The gland packed pumps need a lot of regular maintenance and always weep. Otherwise it might be worth making a peg spanner for the gland nut. You'll need it. 😆
I enjoy watching all of this, its so much like doing it yourself even down to the cutting off the copper pipe you think ah not over that hole and then you mention it your self .! The only bit that didn't quite make sense was that smaller inner bearing removing downwards and out the large access hole where the stuffing gland assy went in ?. If I were to design it I would pull it out the same direction the outer bearing extracted ?? if that makes sense? Oh well brace up its out into my workshop its bloody freezing this morning..
That's a good spot... I was wrong about that bearing - actually it did press (tap) out into that hole but that is not how it is assembled. I did re-assemble with old bearings 1st and it all goes together and comes apart beautifully now!
Great work! Hah! I am old enough to have once (and only on one occasion), had to get knackered water pumps out of the stores and help refurbish them with new bearings and seals. This took me back, though this pump was much more designed to be repaired I think. I hope you didn’t do any of this on Christmas Day!! Do you have enough UNC and UNF taps and dies? I have a load (some brand new) that will probably never get used and will end up in a skip when I shuffle off.. just shout, and let me know an address to send them to. Les 🇬🇧
I noticed that the new bearings have shields on both sides while the old bearings only had shields on the outer sides. The shields should just pop off if you want to configure the new bearings to match to old ones.
Cheers David! When I realised I had bought from China (doh) I did work out that I could get from a Chandlers, and there is even one about 2 miles from me, and they had some, and it was only £3.50.... but alas it was too big!!
Love the reference to Winston im of that age laugh all you like he saved GB and was a great leader ,I never doubted you would get that V 12 running but not at the speed you did its amazing as are you next a chassis for hill climb's ? .PS.your engineering prowess is second to none.
Great video Chris - would you mind sharing what the lanolin grease that you coated the outsides of the casting with is called please? I'm building a 1930s Riley at the moment, I think it would be perfect for that.
That engine is built like a machine tool, like a milling machine or a lathe. The copious use of cast iron is probably for the same reason, to dampen vibration.
Great Job Chris! Reminded me a little bit (although much bigger and more complex) of the fun and games to be had with a Lotus Twin Cam water pump! BTW was Mrs Bracket in the kitchen when you were testing the thermostat? I thought not!
I find that when Im trying to get sheared off bolts using the weld a nut technique that going straight to the impact is a mistake. I try and work the bolt in and out by hand with a spanner for a bit first. Going straight to the ugga dugga seems hasty.
@thebracketfactory another good trick is to quench the glowing red fasteners to shock the rust with cold water. An old Dutchman I worked for taught me that when I was working in his garage.
As a rule of thumb I use wellseal on thin (paper) gaskets as it is quite watery , and hylomar on thicker gaskets that may need to compensate for surface imperfections between the mating surfaces. The lanolin is great - smells lovely too!
Hey up mate great video, myself i love doing this type of work pondering how things have been made and mending is just wonderful, don't know which part of England you're at but bearing warehouse at nutwood trading estate in Sheffield is wonderful i needed a weird bearing for a large wood chipper £250+vat from dealer and a wait, they had one in stock (German) for less than £150 inc said they could get one from E Europe next day for £80. They deal world wide. So now you know my brilliant shop what's the name/brand of that lanolin oil/grease stuff, by the way you should have left the grease fitting off, why add unnecessary weight!
Thanks so much for this series of vids, I`ve followed you from the start and it has just been so interesting. What size is the engine and how many horses does it produce please? Also, what gearbox and diff are you using? Thanks again for all of your hard work. Paul from Widnes.
Hi, the engine is 8.1L and about 270 (lazy) HP - I'll use the original box (if it ca be restored) but not picked axle yet - but it will need to be strong!
Nice work Chris! What's your target radiator wise? Must have been a generous one originally as presumably designed to be effective with no ram effect when pumping? Are you going to lash something up to allow for tuning or plan ahead for the special? Is there going to be a big chassis reveal? I get little enjoyment after the first fire up seeing with the multitude of men of a certain age on YT who have a large motor on a frame that is never going to do anything other than have a perfunctory rev up once in a blue moon over too many Budweisers.
Cheers Bert - but first things first - I'm more of a Leffe man than a Bud man ;-). Now whilst I am partial to the odd massive engine running on a stand for no reason, please rest assured that this one is destined for a car... Will there be a big chassis reveal? Well I do plan to reveal a big chassis, if that's what you mean?! (but only when I've found it..) Good news is that I have a 'hot lead' so I may have news soon. Rad wise I will use one of the two I have to get her up and running, but my gut feel (and mind's eye) don't think either will be suitable for the car... but time will tell...
...afraid not! Old one was not stainless and i just grabbed a lump of EN24 and knocked one up.... but if I have to pull the pump again (I'd say it's 50:50!) I might make another in stainless...
@ Great work on the disassembly and machining…the water pump post-Mortem report was clever too. That “Rope” gland packing is critical and quality anti corrosive coolant so I
At last, a man who knows the difference between a split pin and a cotter pin.
Oh Oh! Do I see a geographic/semantic controversy brewing? 🙂
Hear Hear…!
@@90FF1 No just facts, a cotter pin is a stepped headless bolt with a tapered flat down one side. They were used for decades to hold the pedal cranks onto the pedal shaft on bicycles, I guess in Merica they have no name for these. A split pin is a pin that is split. If you want pedantic try teaching an American how to tackle mathS or to measure RPMs
@@robames1293 Not to belabor the point. For example Germans might call it "Federstecker" Italians, "copiglia" In my dad's language, he would call it a "zavlačka"
To quote "The Bard", "What's in a name? That which we call a rose, by any other name would smell as sweet".
Oxford English Dictionary : Cotter (n) A pin, key, wedge, or bolt which fits into a hole and fastens something in its place.
I have a small table top lathe that uses a headless tapered bolt to assure the head stock is fixed tightly and is square to the bed. Tho it is indeed 'cottering', according to Oxford, I wouldn't characterize it as a pin.
Hoping we remain Bracket Factory, petrol head friends. Cheers from - you guessed it - the USA. 🙂
@@90FF1 No offence taken and hopefully not given. We are united by our interests.
Always luv the look of refurbed parts which are clean but in their original finish, as I've said before your attention to detail is superb 😎
@@warrencole2974 yeah, i had planned to paint the engine but the ‘oily rag’ look is really growing on me!
@@warrencole2974 cheers Warren 👍
'Tis a thing of beauty! Excellent work and video production.
Starting to look that part now isn't it!
Usual excellent standard of work, I really enjoy watching people do it right 👍
Cheers! Appreciate the feedback.
Really impressed with your patience disassembling that water pump! 60 years ago as an apprentice, it was always our kop to refurbish these water pumps from the 1920's onwards! That packing gland principal was always the Achilles heal because of lack of maintenance! Brilliant job! 👏 Really enjoyed watching you rebuild that Chris!
Arguably the most detailed LaFrance video yet. A full 45 minutes on one detail of this wonderful build.
Absolutely brilliant. Great old school engineering. (you and the original manufacturers)
Just a thought, you could have just built up the 'Screw' head with weld, re-machined, avoiding the dreaded 'thread cutting'.
Good idea, may still do that to have a 'spare'!
I am really happy that you are going through this rebuild. Most people would not know what is involved in disassembly, repairs and reassembly. Your patience is truly a great element for success. Carry on Brother, from Litchfield County Ct...
Thanks Stephen, really appreciate the feedback.
Top Job!.. really enjoyed the pump rebuild works..can't wait to see and hear it run again..cheers
Me too! Thanks for tuning in again!
Great job Chris! Man did beat the water pump! I might have waited for the new packing to arrive, but you need to get videos out! This episode was more ‘gasket factory’! Looking great, can’t wait for next startup.
@@boydsargeant7496 yes I did consider waiting… but I reckon I could have that pump off and in bits in about 15 mins now… so I don’t mind fitting the new seal if push comes to shove! Now itching to get the rad on!
Great job and series. I got here via Oak Swamp. Best wishes from Australia
@@robames1293 thanks for the support from ‘down under’ Rob 👍
That is a restoration job on it's own! And a lovely job you made of it, I hope you made the new screw from stainless, it will make it much easier to remove in future. I think the packing you put back will be better than the new material you ordered, and the graphite coating will make it run and seal much better. I always apply a liberal amount of copper slip to all parts of a water pump assembly, it just stops the water getting in to the threads. A nice Christmas project! Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 cheers Chris! I promise to show how much it really leaks when I try it out!
@@thebracketfactory Ha Ha! That will be fine, with the shielded bearings and proper old packing you will get no leaks! Hope you enjoyed the New Year celebrations, it is a bit cold down here in Southern France to go outside, keep that Bengal inside in the warm, ours is stuck by the wood burner! Chris B.
Brilliant - it almost makes me feel like I could renovate a LaFrance water pump myself, so your mission of the day was a real success !
@@christianstage1501 I’ll keep my eyes peeled for one for you!
I'm so glad this engine landed in your capable hands. Great workmanship right there.
From memory rope seals should be soaked in oil overnight prior to install which enables them to swell and seal..though I'm not 100% sure if thats in all cases...It came up a treat and look forward to hearing it run again
Great stuff Chris - if it does leak you may be able to convert it to a lip seal. Can’t wait to see it in a chassis. Bring the thunder! 👍🏻
Talking of chassis, I have a 'lead'! Hope to provide an update soon....
Brilliant. Can’t wait to hear about that. I have. 1933 triumph chassis I’m hoping to start the build on soon. I may even dip my toe into videoing it 👍🏻
@ you MUST Gavin!!
That’s a great bit of refurbishment going on there 👍 v-much looking forward to seeing the cooling system solution and subsequent tuning of carburettors and timing when you can have sustained running.
me too - itching to get some decent runs out if the big old girl!
Thanks for another excellent video. I'm so pleased when you say that you will give things a good clean before working on them: all too often I see videos where people just bash away on filthy components risking failure to see what is actually needed and also getting contamination into engines, gearboxes etc.
The engine is shaping up really well and I hope that this year you will locate a suitable chassis. There's still a long way to go, but I hope to see a finished Behemoth roaring up a hillclimb, or round a track, sometime.
All best wishes to you and yours for 2025.
@@georgeclements2742 Thanks! Though I feel I may be the cause of a global shortage of elbow grease!
One beautifull piece of machinery brought back to life, very satisfying as you stated. Oh and by the way, happy new year.
@@h-j.k.8971 thanks and Happy New Year to you too!
Brilliant design on the water pump and a brilliant rebuild! Tbh i would have removed the inner bearing shields and made use of the grease nipple as the sealed for life bearings generally have enough grease to ensure that you will be buying replacements in a few years time! Although you can fit the stuffing box type seal first and pass the shaft through it, the spanner and screw driver was an excellent work around! Thoroughly enjoyed watching that!
Phil
Cheers Phil! I was thinking about the stuffing box assembly sequence - I might make a tapered cone that fits over the end of the shaft so that the lip of the shaft doesn't catch when I push it through.. next time though!
@@thebracketfactorybe nicer just to put shaft in lathe for a little bevel
I've learned, the hard way, to always open the new "sealed" bearings to inspect. They never have proper grease from the factory. I clean and grease with quality grease if reinstalling the seal. In this case I'd remove seals and use as designed.
Good work. Looks well cared for now. All this was because they were built to be maintained rather than replacement parts. Engineered! & to last. 👏🙂🙂
Thank you so much for sharing, this is a wonderful build !
Glad you are enjoying it.
Chris, Thank you for another excellent video. I enjoyed it very much. This was a true test of your patience. Until next time, carry on!
@@argee55 Thanks Randall! I’m sure the old girl has plenty more curve balls to throw at me..!
I am sure we used Copaslip grease on components in high pressure hot water systems used to heat the paint ovens in the old Vauxhall car plant. It prevented corrosion, galling, and kept some of the rust at bay, so ideal for using on the bolts securing parts of the water pump. Watched from start to finish, I thought at one point Mr.Tweed was going to be engaged for an impellor bolt.
@@robmunn3716 haha,, well Mr (I love making Bolts) Tweed would have been my first ‘phone a friend’ choice but I think he has rather got his hands full with his latest project!
Coming on well Chris, you could give the old impeller screw a new lease of life by welding up the top completely, turn the excess off in the lathe and cut a new slot in it, I use old gunwash for cleaning enegine parts really cuts through the grease also very handy for alloy parts as you can leave them to soak and it leaches out the oil which is also handy if the parts need to be welded, I get mine 5 gallons a time from a local paintshop and they are more than happy to give it away as it saves them the problem of disposal, the used brushwash can then be disposed of at the local recycling centre, if left for a while any paint particles will drop to the bottom and the clear clean can be decanted off the top.
Cheers Mr Nigel. I'll check out gunwash (though we don't have too many guns here!)
@@thebracketfactory I can sell you one .
Good progress, Chris, I wish I was as meticulous. Our cars were often one stop from the scrapyard, so I learned how to bodge at an early age. Boiling the thermostat took me back to the 60's with my Dad getting stick from Mum for using her kitchen stove. A cheap video for me this time as I've got one of those ratcheting tap wrenches!
Nifty little things aren't they!
My procedure for fitting the starter ring gear to a flywheel -1) Set up Workmate in kitchen 2) Remove pizza from freezer 3) Turn on oven and set to req.temp to cook pizza. Place pizza in oven. 4) Place flywheel on Workmate having removed old ring gear. 5) When pizza is done, remove from oven and switch off, Place new ring gear (thoroughly degreased!) in oven. 6) Eat pizza. 7) Remove ring gear from oven and drop onto flywheel. a slight tap from a hide mallet or piece of wood may be necessary. 8) Remove all evidence of domestic transgressions from kitchen leaving it not only schpick but also schpan. Well, it worked about twelve years ago with my '94 Skoda Favvy anyway......
Most of the older water pumps were rebuildable, interesting to see the internals, well done with the sheared bolts.
Lovey job Mr Bracket! thanks for showing us the entire rebuild and your logical repairs, I love that Lanolin oil too! great stuff!
Cheers Graham - I might start using that oil as an after shave (if I start shaving ...)
Great job on that water pump 👏 🎉🎉🎉 good solid engineering even if it's a bit quirky , all coming together very nicely now , very well done🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks Stuart.
Hi Chris. Never thought I'd be so fascinated and entertained by a water pump rebuild. Excellent content. Brilliant channel. You and Brian are among the best on snoozetube. Happy New Year from the emerald Isle.
Cheers Pate! Got to confess that I did think that a 45 mins video all about a water pump wouldn't be all that popular, but thankfully I was wrong!
Fascinating episode, Chris. A very detailed, but never boring restoration of what is now a pretty much throw away item ( it certainly was on my MGBs ). I love the detail you go into and am amazed at the transformation the engine is going through. Happy New Year.
Thanks Dale!
Wonderful, creative and imaginative fettling. To see you do this is captivating - and gives me lots of ideas for 'work-around' methodology. I'm looking forward to the next ep.!
Thanks Tim - hope to be starting again soon...!
I changed a water pump, barely had the tools to do the job with us. I used locktight to glue the gasket on . An adjustable spanner to get the bolts and channel lock pliers to remove the clamp, you would think a fellow would carry a screwdriver, if they carried the other stuff! It worked out fine , never leaked , the gasket curled up worsr than a potato chip it was inside a plastic tube rolled up. It needed to be glued on.
That water pump is made like a Ford Model A pump. Packing and gland nut very similar to yours. Nice job!!
Graphite rope is the stuff, the idea is to use the brass adjuster ring to tighten it up if it starts to leak.
I know it’s just the water pump but you done such a good job you should be able to run it for years without having any problems. Thanks
Happy New Year Chris! Love your videos. Very much in awe of your engineering skills but largely find it great therapy to watch you working, pretty much my equivalent of funny cat clips, and tbf, you do even include a bonus bit of cat action ever so often!
Happy New Year Matt!! Thanks for the support mate… and I’ll see if I can get both cats in the next vid!!
Now THAT is one fine water pump. Repairable, maintainable, and built to last. Fine job and a fitting restoration. With a good quality coolant, this jewel should be pumping for a long time. Ingenuity on display in creating the screwdriver blade from a spade bit! Great editing - as always.
Thanks Chas! Hopefully she'll be up and running again soon....
Wood bits work so well on metal (my mom never appreciated what great screwdrivers her silverware knives made).
Very professional rebuild with just enough sketchy bits for entertainment. Cheers from the Shed
haha yeah - got to have a bit of 'sketchy' in there to balance it up a bit!
Nice
Nice project. Good episode. Suggestion: when you put the water pump back together, use some fine emory cloth tape to polish the packing surface. And the use some "Vasoline" in the surfaces and into the rope so it'll be lubed while it's running w minimum water flow (drip). Also suggest you use some RTV on the threads of the impeller. I'd use some "Never Seize" on the threads, then wiped off and RTV will seal the threads and act as poor mans thread locker. And allow it all to unscrew pretty easily 😊
Some great tips there, thanks!
good job, held my attention all the way through, thank you
Nice work Chris! Thoroughly enjoyed this video, looking forward to the next!t😁
Cheers Denis. When I edited it together I couldn't get it below 45 mins without losing part of the story, so I was a bit worried it might be a bit long and boring... But seems quite a lot of people liked it!
Great show😊
Very thorough Mr Bracket, as we've come to expect on every job you undertake.
Well done and thanks for the video.
Still itching to see more on the A7 though!😁
Thanks Colin - plan to dust off the A7 soon when the weather gets a bit better...! (it's actually snowing at the moment..)
Good work on this marvellous engine.
It's a cool engine isn't it - I'm really falling for it!
@thebracketfactory It belongs on Clarkson's Cool Wall. Sub Zero.
Nice job....! I guess you could use a centre punch on the pulley to "lock" the pulley screw slot to stop it coming loose - similar to Austin 7 oil gallery plug in the crankcase..?
That's a very good suggestion David, thanks. I might just whip it off and do that...
That pump’s an impressive thing. Nice work. You could do with a tool to check the tension on that belt.
@@nigeltoon1848 😂. Now where did I put it…!
Great video. They don’t make them like they used to. Looks like someone used a lot of grease when they built that pump. Luckily 👍
Cracking job again, you must be very satisfied with the outcome
Cheers Kevin! So far so good... but the proof of the pudding is in the eating - and I hope to be eating more pudding soon...
The rope seal is same as on a boat output shaft ( canal boat ) keep it greased and don't let it go dry out or over tighten it you will have no probs 😎🤘
I did actually get some rope seal from a chandlery about 2 miles from me.... but it was just a bit too thick.
@@thebracketfactory There's lots of different sizes and grades of graphite impregnated seal rope .I was taught to install it back in 1973 and at the time I thought it was an archaic idea. 5 decades later i am still fitting it. 😁😁 A lot of cars like Dodge were still using it for water pump seals into the 1930's too.
got here from seering you on oak swamp Crosley engine tear down , great job on that big old v12 kiwi living in L.A. all the best for 2025 mate
Cheers Fred - great to have you here!
Another really great video, I’m surprised there’s no flinger ring on the pump shaft between the gland and bearings, and doesn’t appear to have ever had one . I know it’s a faff stripping again, but if you do when replacing the packing it’s likely worth making a flinger ring even if it’s a pvc disc. There again I also know it’s very easy to get carried away ‘improving’ stuff, next thing would be a modern compound sprung seal🤪🤪😆
Thanks again for a great video, love to see it having a water cooled run and tune,👍👌😊😊
Good suggestions Paul, thanks. And hopefully water cooled session coming soon!
That late 50's chevy truck radiator will work fine, but the other will look much better!
yeah - leaning towards the hummungous one....!
That pump is a great piece of engineering in fact greatly over engineered like the rest of the engine, I wasn't really surprised to see metric bearings used as in my experiences mostly with 50s Nash's the Americans surprisingly quite often used metric dimensioned components.
One point I would make is the use of copper grease inside of the pump, most metals are sacrificial to copper especially in the presence of water, copper anti seize compounds use a low melting point grease as their base which is not waterproof and is designed to dry out when hot and its original intended use was for things like exhaust manifold nuts and studs.
Over the course of my 50+ years of engine and machine building Ive had and seen some terrible problems caused by its usually inappropriate use, much better would have been to use a waterproof grease such as CL or even the lanolin grease you were using.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Cheers Grant! I actually uses graphite grease on that seal, (and a smear of copper on the thread) but I may well end up swapping that seal for another (new) one if it leaks too badly!
Happy to turn up a replacement screw for you.
That's very generous Shaun.. Can I cash that in when I have something really big and difficult?!
Heat is usually your best friend,the hotter the better,rope seal is easily replaced,just need the right size,don’t over tighten,even greased up it will still chew up a shaft,happy new year bud,👍
Cheers Brett. I may use the 'weld a blob in the end' trick again... that put in a LOT of heat!
bearings are 6205-C-2HRS and 6204-C-2HRS, seal well against water, 👏
Paint the end of the fan blades in yellow, it will definitely look like a spitfire then haha
Great attention to detail, looking really good.
haha, love that idea!!
Try the model engineering supplies for the packing material. It's usually sold as graphited yarn and is used for packing the glands on steam engine piston rods so would be ok for a water pump. Two suppliers to try are Macc models and AJ Reeves
Thanks Simon, I'll check those out.
It might be worth modifying the pump to a modern ceramic/carbon seal. The gland packed pumps need a lot of regular maintenance and always weep. Otherwise it might be worth making a peg spanner for the gland nut. You'll need it. 😆
haha - yeah a peg spanner may well be needed!
More magic, worked on a relatively complicated gizmo [to me it looks complicated] Well done!
Staring to look good
Awesome job!
Thanks - getting there!
Happy New Year 😊
Happy New year to you too, and thanks for tuning in.
job well done Mr Bracket
Thanks Rob!
Thanks Chris. Me thinks you may have some association with the medical clan. I noticed a Bard-Parker with an 11 blade, not the most common shop tool.
You can't have too many scalpels kicking around Lance!
I enjoy watching all of this, its so much like doing it yourself even down to the cutting off the copper pipe you think ah not over that hole and then you mention it your self .!
The only bit that didn't quite make sense was that smaller inner bearing removing downwards and out the large access hole where the stuffing gland assy went in ?.
If I were to design it I would pull it out the same direction the outer bearing extracted ?? if that makes sense? Oh well brace up its out into my workshop its bloody freezing this morning..
That's a good spot... I was wrong about that bearing - actually it did press (tap) out into that hole but that is not how it is assembled. I did re-assemble with old bearings 1st and it all goes together and comes apart beautifully now!
@@thebracketfactory Thanks Chris , I think you need to start a subsidiary company the gasket factory !
@@bryansaull7554 haha - I actually laughed out loud when I read that!
Great work!
Hah! I am old enough to have once (and only on one occasion), had to get knackered water pumps out of the stores and help refurbish them with new bearings and seals. This took me back, though this pump was much more designed to be repaired I think. I hope you didn’t do any of this on Christmas Day!! Do you have enough UNC and UNF taps and dies? I have a load (some brand new) that will probably never get used and will end up in a skip when I shuffle off.. just shout, and let me know an address to send them to. Les 🇬🇧
That's extremely kind of you Leslie! Can you message me at chrisbeadsmoore@me.com? Can't have too many taps and dies!
That larger radiator looks like it uses a non pressurised rad cap. That could be an advantage that might avoid water leaks perhaps.
yes, I was thinking the same - also had a large header tank which might also come in useful. Bl00dy enormous though!
Wonderful bit of tinkering and fixing sir! If you're struggling for a name for that rad... how about Annette, she's big! (Italian job reference 😅)
I just watched the clip on youtube... "This is Annette'" !! haha!
@thebracketfactory can't beat a bit of (original) Italian Job! Tis the running joke in my house that anything big is called Annette 🙃
Elegant!
I noticed that the new bearings have shields on both sides while the old bearings only had shields on the outer sides. The shields should just pop off if you want to configure the new bearings to match to old ones.
Thanks Andrew, good point - got a feeling I might be going back in there so may do that if I do!
you can probably pick up some of that gland packing at a chandler's, its most likely the same stuff a stern gland is packed with.👍
Cheers David! When I realised I had bought from China (doh) I did work out that I could get from a Chandlers, and there is even one about 2 miles from me, and they had some, and it was only £3.50.... but alas it was too big!!
@thebracketfactory you can form it by gently hammering it or in braiding it if it's to big
Excellent
Thanks!
Its really great to see these kind of things done so others can learn
Man wins! Great stuff
haha - only just!!
Jobs a good one.
EXCELLENT
they sure dont build them like that anymore - good job Mr Bracket
Cheers!!
Love the reference to Winston im of that age laugh all you like he saved GB and was a great leader ,I never doubted you would get that V 12 running but not at the speed you did its amazing as are you next a chassis for hill climb's ? .PS.your engineering prowess is second to none.
Thank you David!!
👍👍👍
Great video Chris - would you mind sharing what the lanolin grease that you coated the outsides of the casting with is called please? I'm building a 1930s Riley at the moment, I think it would be perfect for that.
Hi , it's made by carbusonic and comes in a 'squirt bottle' but I just pour into a pot and paint on with a brush. Lovely stuff!
That engine is built like a machine tool, like a milling machine or a lathe. The copious use of cast iron is probably for the same reason, to dampen vibration.
It certainly is a whooper!!
Great Job Chris! Reminded me a little bit (although much bigger and more complex) of the fun and games to be had with a Lotus Twin Cam water pump! BTW was Mrs Bracket in the kitchen when you were testing the thermostat? I thought not!
Thanks John - I reckon Colin Chapman would have shuddered if he'd felt the weight of that pump! Weighs about the same an entire Coventry Climax pump!!
I find that when Im trying to get sheared off bolts using the weld a nut technique that going straight to the impact is a mistake. I try and work the bolt in and out by hand with a spanner for a bit first. Going straight to the ugga dugga seems hasty.
And I only used my medium ugga dugga! But yes.. perhaps I should have tried to sneak up on it a bit more...
@thebracketfactory another good trick is to quench the glowing red fasteners to shock the rust with cold water. An old Dutchman I worked for taught me that when I was working in his garage.
@@ProSimex84 cheers, I hope I won't need to do that, but I bet i will!
Excellent work!
How do you decide which sealant to use on gaskets, ie hylomar or wellseal?
Never heard of lanolin, looks like a nice finish
As a rule of thumb I use wellseal on thin (paper) gaskets as it is quite watery , and hylomar on thicker gaskets that may need to compensate for surface imperfections between the mating surfaces. The lanolin is great - smells lovely too!
Hey up mate great video, myself i love doing this type of work pondering how things have been made and mending is just wonderful, don't know which part of England you're at but bearing warehouse at nutwood trading estate in Sheffield is wonderful i needed a weird bearing for a large wood chipper £250+vat from dealer and a wait, they had one in stock (German) for less than £150 inc said they could get one from E Europe next day for £80. They deal world wide. So now you know my brilliant shop what's the name/brand of that lanolin oil/grease stuff, by the way you should have left the grease fitting off, why add unnecessary weight!
Thanks for the tip! The Lanolin oil is made by Carbusonic.
I have used the impact drive on clockwise first then CCW.
good shout, may have shocked it into submission .
@thebracketfactory i haven't forgotten your distributors. It's just nasty cold here right now.
@@bradsherman3744 cheers Brad! Cold here too at the moment - snowing now!
Wouldn’t shouldered studs work better than bolts in the water pump? They would help line it up and hold it while you fiddle.
Actually yes they would, good shout. It'll be interesting to see how many places water comes out....!
Hi Have you checked out Swagelok fittings. Available in imperial sizes,
Cheers Chris, I'll check them out.
I would never assume its a right handed thread on that screw.
That's a good point - I've fallen foul of that before! But I knew which way the impeller went so took an educated guess (phew!)
Excellent. Did you cut the screw thread on the lathe of did you use a die?
@@tamarmolerick3814 shhhh… don’t tell Mr Tweed but I used a die…
The size of that fan… the next time you start her, she may well try to fly. Best chock the wheels.
@@tabriff3832 yes, that fan is 2 feet across!!
Thanks so much for this series of vids, I`ve followed you from the start and it has just been so interesting. What size is the engine and how many horses does it produce please? Also, what gearbox and diff are you using? Thanks again for all of your hard work. Paul from Widnes.
Hi, the engine is 8.1L and about 270 (lazy) HP - I'll use the original box (if it ca be restored) but not picked axle yet - but it will need to be strong!
What lanolin grease are you using?
It's made by Carbusonic.
Result!
Nice work Chris! What's your target radiator wise? Must have been a generous one originally as presumably designed to be effective with no ram effect when pumping? Are you going to lash something up to allow for tuning or plan ahead for the special? Is there going to be a big chassis reveal? I get little enjoyment after the first fire up seeing with the multitude of men of a certain age on YT who have a large motor on a frame that is never going to do anything other than have a perfunctory rev up once in a blue moon over too many Budweisers.
Cheers Bert - but first things first - I'm more of a Leffe man than a Bud man ;-). Now whilst I am partial to the odd massive engine running on a stand for no reason, please rest assured that this one is destined for a car... Will there be a big chassis reveal? Well I do plan to reveal a big chassis, if that's what you mean?! (but only when I've found it..) Good news is that I have a 'hot lead' so I may have news soon. Rad wise I will use one of the two I have to get her up and running, but my gut feel (and mind's eye) don't think either will be suitable for the car... but time will tell...
Stainless steel for new slotted nut….?
...afraid not! Old one was not stainless and i just grabbed a lump of EN24 and knocked one up.... but if I have to pull the pump again (I'd say it's 50:50!) I might make another in stainless...
@
Great work on the disassembly and machining…the water pump post-Mortem report was clever too. That “Rope” gland packing is critical and quality anti corrosive coolant so I
Water pump grease nis a thick dry, cheesey grease that doesn;t flow.
I'll look it up, cheers.
Borrow the wife's jam thermometer!
Was nice to see a kitchen been used properly for a change
haha! Nat was out and she doesn't watch the videos!
Excellent