great walk through and instructions... folks please be careful and ensure your clean-up is thorough. My mechanic had a leak and didn't do a timely clean-up ruining the paint on my new rim.
Went to drive my Z today. Brake pedal went to the floor. Built up pressure after pumping it 5 times. Waited 10seconds and it went to the floor again. I checked for leaks and couldn't find any. I'm guessing after replacing the two rear calipers. My brakes still have air in them. It's like once I've one thing fixed something else fails. Buying this Z has been a journey over rocky ground. I've rebuilt the engine with new piston rings, timing chain, guides, tensioners, water pump, plugs, coilpacks, rebuilt cylinder heads, and new head gaskets and intake gaskets. Rebuilt the suspension with new coilovers, bushings, tie rods, steering rack, adjustable everything for alignment. Rebuilt the clutch with new clutch, throw out bearing, flywheel, slave cylinder, master cylinder and lines. Rebuilding the brake system now and I've about had it up to my eyeballs. I've spent about 5k on parts and only drove my Z about 200 miles in 4 months. It's like everytime I fix something another part fails. Hopefully I can solve this brake issue before I say fuck it and sell the car. Any ideas why I've bled half a bottle of fluid through my rear calipers and my brakes still go to the floor?
Anthony, I really enjoy your videos and the concise details you provide. I just finished installing new rotors & pads to my '06 350Z. I removed the Stock Calipers to repaint them. Obviously, I needed to bleed the system (2 person method). I followed your suggestions with the engine running and going to the caliper furthest away from the MC (which is what I was always taught). Everything seems to be fine, now that the system has been bled. The thing is, I have now learned that Nissan Service Manual says to start at Right Rear, then Front Left, then Rear Left and finally Front Right...in that order with Engine off. I'm not sure if I will re-do the bleeding process. Your thoughts?
If it brakes right now, try the service manual method now and see if one technique gives you a better feel than the other. At least you have confirmed you can get it to work, no harm in trying a different method.
@@blakeclifford4769 Blake...I did not try the Factory method. I only followed what I had always been taught and what Anthony suggested. I was very happy with the results!!! It make so much sense to start farther away from the reservoir and work your way in. Good luck!
Not sure anyone should follow this advice without 1st checking their FSM (Factory service manual). Maybe it's the years, or having G37 on here is just a bad idea, but the FSM says to disconnect the ABS (or just the negative battery cable which is what I do as also stated in the FSM), and the bleed order is very different on all cars. My 2009 G37 it's Pax rear, driver front, driver rear, pax front. Year to year brake line routing from the ABS can change and don't ever think it's from your brake fluid reservoir because it's not. Also, most older FSM's and many newer say "Use Dot 3", but not once have I found a case where DOT 4 or Dot 5.1 wasn't equal or better. It's backward compatible and DOT 4 is improved, not different. To be safe though, don't take my advice either and simply ask your dealer mechanic or another. Just don't use DOT 5. It's for military vehicles that are made for it. 5.1 however is always improved 4, which is improved 3 (not the best way to word it, but if followed it still true to the point). I also don't know why people keep closing their bleeders, haha. It's not a vacuumed system to where it would suck air in, other than possible gravity before the tube is primed. I bleed mine alone. Never fill the bottle with fluid. I pump the brakes 5 - 7 times, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, repeat until fluid is at least half of the tube, then I leave the bleeder open and pump 13 or so times, check the reservoir, fill it, check the bottle, empty if needed, continue until the color is clear. Each bleeder I have (in the past) one final close of the bleeder pumped a few times and checked for air bubbles upon reopen, but not once have I ever seen one so I don't bother anymore. I think information has spilled into the present from the past and on something as scary as our brakes we tend to over-do everything due to fear of doing it wrong. Better to be safe perhaps, but best to learn what's current and especially what's best for our individual cars.
hey anthony, i'm switching over to brembos on all four corners next week with SS lines. can i just remove the calipers and pump all the old fluid out? switching over to 5.1 non silicone based brake fluid. just kind of confused on how i'm supposed to get it all out. do i suck out as much as i can out of the brake reservoir with like a clean turkey baster then add the new fluid and then bleed until i see new fluid? much thanks for all your great vids. my go to 350z guy!
I would change the fluid in the booster then bleed the system with the old calipers on till you get all the old fluid out. Then swap to the Brembos and bleed the system again.
Nicely done. Did you know about the 370 stock wheel bearing swap upgrade for 350 n g35 are compatible. Their beefier and less susceptible to need replacement. 👍
@@AnthonyJ350 doesn't take long. 4 bolts behind the knuckle and remove axle nut to reach those bolts. It's an easy swap and very worth it. I found out about it not long ago. I think z1 has info on that. Pretty good stock mod. The whole hub n bearing is replaced.
Nice, I guess when tracking the 370z or whatever car with akebonos, you will have to bleed front calipers time to time bc a wheel shake will happen due to uneven pressure in front calipers
Thanks for watching! You can get the hose from your local auto parts store. They also sell brake bleeding kits for a reasonable price. Check it out when the whole COVID crisis is over.
Anthony, I have the a original (05)G35 rear caliper that is sticking bad even after extensive cleaning,bleeding, and lubing. I want to pick your brain for possible options/upgrade within reasonable cost. Most manufacturers, have a part number of XXX2792 and XXX2793. I have the Sport Tuned Suspension w 6MT which has the smaller E Brake drum.
Is bleeding the brakes in the sequence you mentioned the correct way ? I was looking at a g35 forum and some mentioned to bleed Rear R , front L, rear L front R (for models with ABS)??( and also to disconnect Neg. terminal on batt)! What is the right way I’m planning on bleeding brakes soon !!I have an 06 g35 coupe 6MT
Hopefully you respond, I had a question. So the bleeder nipple is absolutely destroyed in one side of the caliper, is it bad if I only bleed one side of the caliper and leave the other as it is
I thought you needed to have the car off and the negative battery cable removed so the abs module is inactive. I didn’t have anyone to help so I used a similar setup and the one person method. Is it better to have the car running?
Interesting that the car had to be on. I used a power bleeder and in retrospect it's still a tad soft imo. Do you think you could get away with a power bleeder if the car is on or would that create some sort of issue with the built up pressure?
That I'm not sure. The system might need to see the brakes being applied. Since you got most of the air out, you can do it like the video and see if the pedal gets better.
@@Samualninja Let us know if it makes a difference. I bled the car a lot. I went around the vehicle like 8 times asking the driver how the pedal was feeling.
AnthonyJ350 Im sure! Only thing it says is neg. batt. Off or abs unplugged. Also you bleed left front, left rear, right front, right rear. Just did mine yesterday. Car off, used the all star one way valve bottle. Worked great.
@AnthonyJ350 @Everybody - I'm having an issue with my 350Z. Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Foot off clutch = vibrating/tapping Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Rev = vibrating/tapping gets slightly faster Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Press clutch in = Vibrating/tapping STOPS Driving, any gear, foot off clutch = vibrating/tapping Driving, any gear, Press clutch in = vibrating/tapping STOPS - as soon as I release clutch, it starts again. Any ideas?
the noise has been there as long as I can remember but has started to get progressively worse over the last 8 weeks. there is also a "tshhhhhhhhhh" noise below 2k under acceleration , at 2k the noise goes. tapping is annoying in neutral / whilst driving though, makes the car sound like crap!
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great walk through and instructions... folks please be careful and ensure your clean-up is thorough. My mechanic had a leak and didn't do a timely clean-up ruining the paint on my new rim.
Great tip and thanks for watching!
Wish I had watched this video. Did not know I had to idle my Z. Now I gotta remove my rear wheels again. Thanks for this video
Was the pedal still a little soft after you completed the job?
I idled the engine and bled the system again. Everything seems to be fine now. Nice stiff pedal feel....thanks again for your video
@@willk3807 Nice! Glad to hear you got a better pedal feel out of it 😀
Went to drive my Z today. Brake pedal went to the floor. Built up pressure after pumping it 5 times. Waited 10seconds and it went to the floor again. I checked for leaks and couldn't find any. I'm guessing after replacing the two rear calipers. My brakes still have air in them. It's like once I've one thing fixed something else fails. Buying this Z has been a journey over rocky ground. I've rebuilt the engine with new piston rings, timing chain, guides, tensioners, water pump, plugs, coilpacks, rebuilt cylinder heads, and new head gaskets and intake gaskets. Rebuilt the suspension with new coilovers, bushings, tie rods, steering rack, adjustable everything for alignment. Rebuilt the clutch with new clutch, throw out bearing, flywheel, slave cylinder, master cylinder and lines. Rebuilding the brake system now and I've about had it up to my eyeballs. I've spent about 5k on parts and only drove my Z about 200 miles in 4 months. It's like everytime I fix something another part fails. Hopefully I can solve this brake issue before I say fuck it and sell the car. Any ideas why I've bled half a bottle of fluid through my rear calipers and my brakes still go to the floor?
@@willk3807 I had to go around and bleed the car at least 5 times. How many times did you go around?
Anthony, I really enjoy your videos and the concise details you provide. I just finished installing new rotors & pads to my '06 350Z. I removed the Stock Calipers to repaint them. Obviously, I needed to bleed the system (2 person method). I followed your suggestions with the engine running and going to the caliper furthest away from the MC (which is what I was always taught). Everything seems to be fine, now that the system has been bled. The thing is, I have now learned that Nissan Service Manual says to start at Right Rear, then Front Left, then Rear Left and finally Front Right...in that order with Engine off. I'm not sure if I will re-do the bleeding process. Your thoughts?
If it brakes right now, try the service manual method now and see if one technique gives you a better feel than the other. At least you have confirmed you can get it to work, no harm in trying a different method.
did u try both methods? what was the outcome?
@@blakeclifford4769 Blake...I did not try the Factory method. I only followed what I had always been taught and what Anthony suggested. I was very happy with the results!!! It make so much sense to start farther away from the reservoir and work your way in. Good luck!
More info: I started at the Right Rear, then Left Rear, then Right Front, them Left Front all with the engine running.
Not sure anyone should follow this advice without 1st checking their FSM (Factory service manual). Maybe it's the years, or having G37 on here is just a bad idea, but the FSM says to disconnect the ABS (or just the negative battery cable which is what I do as also stated in the FSM), and the bleed order is very different on all cars. My 2009 G37 it's Pax rear, driver front, driver rear, pax front. Year to year brake line routing from the ABS can change and don't ever think it's from your brake fluid reservoir because it's not. Also, most older FSM's and many newer say "Use Dot 3", but not once have I found a case where DOT 4 or Dot 5.1 wasn't equal or better. It's backward compatible and DOT 4 is improved, not different. To be safe though, don't take my advice either and simply ask your dealer mechanic or another. Just don't use DOT 5. It's for military vehicles that are made for it. 5.1 however is always improved 4, which is improved 3 (not the best way to word it, but if followed it still true to the point).
I also don't know why people keep closing their bleeders, haha. It's not a vacuumed system to where it would suck air in, other than possible gravity before the tube is primed. I bleed mine alone. Never fill the bottle with fluid. I pump the brakes 5 - 7 times, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, repeat until fluid is at least half of the tube, then I leave the bleeder open and pump 13 or so times, check the reservoir, fill it, check the bottle, empty if needed, continue until the color is clear. Each bleeder I have (in the past) one final close of the bleeder pumped a few times and checked for air bubbles upon reopen, but not once have I ever seen one so I don't bother anymore. I think information has spilled into the present from the past and on something as scary as our brakes we tend to over-do everything due to fear of doing it wrong. Better to be safe perhaps, but best to learn what's current and especially what's best for our individual cars.
Thanks for sharing!
That's good info. Appreciate you
Glad to help!
hey anthony, i'm switching over to brembos on all four corners next week with SS lines. can i just remove the calipers and pump all the old fluid out? switching over to 5.1 non silicone based brake fluid. just kind of confused on how i'm supposed to get it all out. do i suck out as much as i can out of the brake reservoir with like a clean turkey baster then add the new fluid and then bleed until i see new fluid? much thanks for all your great vids. my go to 350z guy!
I would change the fluid in the booster then bleed the system with the old calipers on till you get all the old fluid out. Then swap to the Brembos and bleed the system again.
Nicely done. Did you know about the 370 stock wheel bearing swap upgrade for 350 n g35 are compatible. Their beefier and less susceptible to need replacement. 👍
Thanks! Oh really? I had no idea about the wheel bearings. How hard is the job to do?
Should have told me when I had the rotors off! Lol
@@AnthonyJ350 doesn't take long. 4 bolts behind the knuckle and remove axle nut to reach those bolts. It's an easy swap and very worth it. I found out about it not long ago. I think z1 has info on that. Pretty good stock mod. The whole hub n bearing is replaced.
thizzface do they fit with the 350z axles?
@@pushhrodd01 no because the axle spine won't match the new bearing. You will need axles from 06 n up g35 or 370. Not sure about 06 350z
Nice, I guess when tracking the 370z or whatever car with akebonos, you will have to bleed front calipers time to time bc a wheel shake will happen due to uneven pressure in front calipers
Wouldn't be a bad idea before you head to the track. Fluid would be a little mote fresh and resist boiling.
Thanks so much man! Where did you get that hose to put on the caliper?
Thanks for watching! You can get the hose from your local auto parts store. They also sell brake bleeding kits for a reasonable price. Check it out when the whole COVID crisis is over.
@@AnthonyJ350 this comment is amusing and depressing at the same time
@@kudicid1234 Ya, made that comment when everything was locked down. Things are a little better now.
Anthony,
I have the a original (05)G35 rear caliper that is sticking bad even after extensive cleaning,bleeding, and lubing. I want to pick your brain for possible options/upgrade within reasonable cost. Most manufacturers, have a part number of XXX2792 and XXX2793. I have the Sport Tuned Suspension w 6MT which has the smaller E Brake drum.
You should be able to bolt on a factory Brembo. Or just get a new original style caliper off of Rock Auto.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you
@@stealthg35infiniti94 You're welcome
Is bleeding the brakes in the sequence you mentioned the correct way ? I was looking at a g35 forum and some mentioned to bleed Rear R , front L, rear L front R (for models with ABS)??( and also to disconnect Neg. terminal on batt)! What is the right way I’m planning on bleeding brakes soon !!I have an 06 g35 coupe 6MT
Start from the wheel furthest away from the brake master and move to the next
@@AnthonyJ350 ok thanks
@@g35tho11 g37 factory service manual says RR > FL > RL > FR. I doubt the the g35/350z order is different, as even an Altima says to use that order.
Hopefully you respond, I had a question. So the bleeder nipple is absolutely destroyed in one side of the caliper, is it bad if I only bleed one side of the caliper and leave the other as it is
Replace the bleeder and bleed like in the video.
I plan on upgrade my front calipers to brembo, do u have to bleed the rear calipers since you only changes the front ones? thank you...
I would bleed all 4 corners so you have fresh brake fluid everywhere and piece of mind you got the air out of the system.
I thought you needed to have the car off and the negative battery cable removed so the abs module is inactive. I didn’t have anyone to help so I used a similar setup and the one person method. Is it better to have the car running?
It worked well for us
Im looking for some new compression arms. What brands have quality made parts?
Factory with Energy Suspension bushings.
Interesting that the car had to be on.
I used a power bleeder and in retrospect it's still a tad soft imo.
Do you think you could get away with a power bleeder if the car is on or would that create some sort of issue with the built up pressure?
That I'm not sure. The system might need to see the brakes being applied. Since you got most of the air out, you can do it like the video and see if the pedal gets better.
This also might be the reason the pedal feels soft, the firewall is weak steel ruclips.net/video/KiQSQP9V_Wc/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350true. Might give it a go with the car on.
Unfortunately I'm RHD. Kit doesn't apply 😕
@@Samualninja Let us know if it makes a difference. I bled the car a lot. I went around the vehicle like 8 times asking the driver how the pedal was feeling.
I have the fsm and in the bleed section i did not see it say car has to be on. Maybe it was revised for some years..
Not sure, but we've seen several cars have a better result when idling the engine.
AnthonyJ350 Im sure! Only thing it says is neg. batt. Off or abs unplugged. Also you bleed left front, left rear, right front, right rear. Just did mine yesterday. Car off, used the all star one way valve bottle. Worked great.
@@bfrankz3332 Thanks for sharing!
So what bleeder first?????? The back or the front? Does it matter
Furthest from the master first
Leave the reservoir cap off. When you leave it on, the fluid can’t flow down easily and it creates a vacuum, slowing down the job.
Thanks for the feedback
Which bleeder valve do u open first? The inside or outside one?
Do the outside first because in theory it's furthest away.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you for responding on such an old video anthony, im doing a brembo swap this weekend and your video helped me alot!
@@diegoiosgaming That's awesome! Glad the video helped you out 🙂
@AnthonyJ350 @Everybody -
I'm having an issue with my 350Z.
Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Foot off clutch = vibrating/tapping
Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Rev = vibrating/tapping gets slightly faster
Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Press clutch in = Vibrating/tapping STOPS
Driving, any gear, foot off clutch = vibrating/tapping
Driving, any gear, Press clutch in = vibrating/tapping STOPS - as soon as I release clutch, it starts again.
Any ideas?
The clutches are known for "chatter". Did the noise just start?
the noise has been there as long as I can remember but has started to get progressively worse over the last 8 weeks.
there is also a "tshhhhhhhhhh" noise below 2k under acceleration , at 2k the noise goes.
tapping is annoying in neutral / whilst driving though, makes the car sound like crap!
@@DP-bv6nt I would have a shop check it out and isolate the noise.
I did mine incorrect. I did both back then front and it sure didn’t work on my Nissan Maxims
Hopefully this helped!
Hey Anthony, could you help me with the tuning of my 350Z?
For the engine or sound system?
Send your ECU to Z1motorsports...they did mine for $400 plus $7.99 shipping. You will get it there and back in 7-10 days
Would’ve actually been helpful to know when ur tightening and loosening
I do show it
What’s the sizing on the hose ?
I recommend getting a brake bleeder kit as they will come with several sizes to help do a variety of vehicles.
What’s the silicone hose’s size for Akebono 4P front?
I have 350Z stainless braided lines from Stoptech.
@@AnthonyJ350 is it different compare to the one from Z1?
@@Qkfltpdls777 That I'm not sure. They probably perform the same and install in a similar fashion.
@@AnthonyJ350 i see. Do you feel the braking difference?
@@Qkfltpdls777 Yes, more firm. Pair it with the Z1 brake brace and the pedal feels very good after ruclips.net/video/KiQSQP9V_Wc/видео.html
Why pump it ten times every time you crack the screw?
Because I like the number and it sounds official
I pump it 12 times. Less official, but you get two more pumps lol.
What size hose did you use during the bleeding?
@@TruckerReviewed The inside diameter was like 1/4"
Bleed clutch🤔🤔🤔
We'll do a video soon where we change the clutch slave as well.
69th comment😎😎
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