I'm an Electrican and really appreciate some of the tips you've shared on your videos. Thanks for sharing. Wish I could thumb up more than once on some of these!
Brother, your solid banner at the bottom is obstructing valuable vision area to see more detail. Can you make it smaller with some transparency or just removed it. By the way great Vd!
I know this is 3 yrs old, but videos like this are why im replacing my normal breakers with arc fault-gfci breakers....and they are pricy (so im buying them 1 or 2 at a time) and by yrs end i will have converted and will sleep better with my wife and kids in the house
I’m running into a lot of issues with combination breakers and new appliances washers, dishwashers, and fridges. From all the online research I’ve done the best answer I’ve found is from Siemens. They say to install a surge protecting receptacle at the appliance location. That seems like a cop out to me. Do you have any answers to help and are you running into this issue any. Love your videos, been in the trade 25 years and it’s good to see great tradesmen at work! Keep it up!
Good work ! Keep showing your knowledge , by doing so you are becoming a better electrician and a better person. I am an electrician and guys like you are very valuable . It shows you enjoy what you are doing. Is it possible to get your banner off the screen and maybe getting a sticker on the panels with your name and number for advertising?
Why would anyone NOT remove all the aluminum wire going to outlets and switches? I remember that they were an issue with home fires due to the connections not being tightened as they should be. I don't know of problems with larger sizes properly connected at both ends as a feeder.
I have found that even though some installations are grandfathered because of age from AFCI Breakers, some municipalities require AFCI Breakers on home runs once a panel is swapped out, and others do not require it...I lean towards installing Arc Fault Breakers where indicated no matter what age of the house is!
In Arizona we bond the grounds to the water pipes. Houses here in the 70's were all slump block with flat roofs so much fun. Most people here just take the house down to the studs and re-wire all copper get rid of all the aluminum wire, or dry wall cut and put in new copper wiring abandon the old wire. I got a quote for 25k to do that. Wondering all that work your doing panel, and pig-tail must be close to 10k at least?
I agree that going to studs is better, but it is all the other fears of what happens when you do; Asspesties, lead base paint, insulation, mice, sealing, and now if you have 2'x4' exterior walls then you have to spray foam, + windows, doors, trim, cabinets, fixtures, ect.................................... This is why people out here in CO only want to do pig-tail splicing. Typically I have see ALM/Cu with Aluminumicons at $55 to $75 an opening, depending on GFCI and Dimmer vs standard opening, for labor and materials, with two people doing the work, and a pro electrician with licenses and insurance. The only thing extra is to build new lighting fixtures and clean up the boxes. We also do AFCI and trace the circuits. If we do a service change for the AFCI this is more.
Since meter cans are grounded through the neutral lug, there's no need to use ground bushings even if you're going through concentric knockouts. The neutral wire is permitted to be the equipment ground as per 2014 NEC 250.142.
Yes there is a need to use grounding (bonding) bushings around concentric knockouts according to 250.92(B). While the meter enclosure and panel enclosure are bonded to the grounded (neutral) conductor, 250.92 says all raceways (offset nipple in this case) must also be bonded. We can't rely on a bond through concentric knockouts. Although, in this video it appears the panel enclosure was knocked out above the concentric knockout which would adequately bond the raceway and not require grounding bushings. Lastly, the neutral service entrance conductor is permitted to ground service equipment and should not be thought of as an equipment grounding conductor which would only apply on the load side of the service.
They also make Afci receptacles too. Which are cheaper than AFCI breakers. My understanding is those only fulfill code requirements though when they are combination devices. Both GFCI and AFCI.
all the meters i have seen have a bond between the neutral lug and the meter because almost all underground services in my area are in PVC pipe with the main panel inside the basement with a SE Cable feeding it which doesnt provide you any bonding to the meter.
I dont understand what you were saying about the meter box not having a ground, it does have a #4 to a ground rod correct? maybe I misunderstood what you said
Hey Joshua! In a jamb I borrowed some clear PVC cleaner (from plumber) for marker cleaning. Pretty aggressive but worked. Took old labels off too. I wanted to give you a thumbs up for making honey out of horse manure! Having been there myself, everything you had to do from working with IMC to verifying a 1970's house, you left a fine job! Odd how the AHJ call it different for different jurisdictions. NFPA 70 is written in Quincy Mass. and Mass. has it's own addendum to that code. Power companies different requirements too. Some do the service lateral, some don't. I have one where I go right to the triplex! I hold Masters in four states and it is something I have to track. Passed!
I have a weird issue that I am looking for a solution for. I have a microwave above my stove on one dedicated normal 20A circuit breaker, when the microwave runs, it pops a AFCI breaker on only one of my bedrooms most of the time. The microwave circuit does not have an issue in any way or time, but the bedroom pops most of the time the microwave runs. The circuitry has not been modified at any time, and the bedroom has a computer as well as the internet via cable modem. The bedroom has no issues at any time except when the microwave turns on. I have checked the conductors in the outlets both in the microwave and bedroom jacks. I will be looking at the neutral and ground bars in the box tomorrow. Do you have any advice on this situation? I checked the phases these two breakers are on and they are both on the A circuit (Microwave in on the 5th slot left and the bedroom is on the 9th slot right side). Hoping you might have an idea to check on.. thanks! Stan Skaggs
Where is expansion joint in PVC conduit feeding meter.socket. Would not pass where I am at. Saw eay too many PVC conduits pull out of glued male adapters pulling wire out of meter socket on meters only mounted 2.5 to 3' off ground.
When OP transitioned from IMC to schedule 80 PVC, he no longer have a bond for the IMC. The code only allows for metallic conduit if it's buried underground and only if needed for pulling as a 90-degree elbow that would get damaged while pulling a drag line.
AFCI and AFCI/GFCI dual-function breakers are about the same price. Any reason I shouldn't just get all AFCI/GFCI dual-function breakers for bedrooms, living room, and other areas that aren't explicitly required to have the GFCI component?
1958 Home FL! I replaced all 2 prong outlets with GFCI. I have GFCI in bathrooms and kitchens. Can I place AFCI in the panel circuit breakers (15 amp or 20 amp) everywhere but bathrooms? Brining me up to 2017 code compliant?
Kind of defeats the purpose of an expansion joint when you install it completely compressed. Not only that, it's upside down. Inside pipe goes down. The way you have it potential for water to run down the insert and into the conduit, which depending on application, run into the equipment it goes to.
Them arc faults suck for the homeowner but $ for the electrictian what's up with all the outdoor residential panels in Colorado disconnecting means in local code
Panels outside is dumb...extra wear and tear on the breakers, cabinet, rust, moisture, why do they still do it 2018...man, very lax standards out there
This maybe true, BUT it was there and existing as is. If we move the panel than this causes more cost and issues of repairs and AFCI breakers, so most of my customers will not move an existing panel inside and than there are not any areas for us to mount without major damages.
No choice for some old homes (2 foot thick stone walls) and the only path in must go through the attic. Having a breaker box in a seriously hard to access space (attic) is not a good idea. That said, I located it under the front porch roof overhang so it never gets direct rain or snow.
The real reason I never designed panelboards outdoors when the conductors were indoors is that breakers are rated to trip at specific amperes installed within the panel at a specific temperature. I believe 85F but not positive. So what that means is if the panel is outside and the temperature is at 0 F, a 20 amp breaker becomes a 60 ampere trip or higher. If the panel and the conductors were both outside, then no issue as temperature affects conductor ampacity rating as well. I know you had no choice, but wanted to state another reason not to install panels outside. Great job fixing the issues!
Basically now residential is all AFCI/GFCI....with a mains surge protector, AND didn't you upgrade all the outlets to TR? Did i see a GFCI outlet outside? where you plugged in the tester, ain't that a no no, they are no moisture proof are they?
Why remove the tapes? .... if you leave them in they could help the next guy ..... and that might just be you ;0) Also another way to remove permanent marker (sharpie?) is to use a fresh permanent marker and Immediately wipe off! You need to do this before the marker dries though ;0)
They spliced inside a conduit?? Wow, that's an NEC violation. Would have been OK if you have an underground service lateral and did the splice there. NEC 300.13 (A)
I don't think you did I think you said THEY. It was the one with the expansion joint under the meter and an L/B fitting was removed. Sorry, thought I heard you say they spliced in the conduit. Did't think you would do that.
@@Petersonelectricllc Listen to the start of the Update on Arc Fault video April 27 2018 you say they spliced to make the conductors longer inside the conduit. I just wondered
@@mikefox2379 Yah, maybe your right, the job was 5 yrs ago, have a hard time remembering what I see everyday. If they did, your right, the only time that is legal is the LB fittings which have a conductor fill on them.
The $5 GFCI cube shaped outlet tester cannot detect reverse polarity when a false (a.k.a. "bootleg") ground has been installed. This crime increases the risk to fire and electrocution. This crime is most commonly committed by general building contractors engaged in “flipping” pre-1965 built real estate and is found across the country. Motive: Money. It costs several thousand dollars to rewire a single family residence to meet code. It costs less than one hundred dollars in material and labor expenses to pre-fabricate 30 to 50 wall receptacles with a short jumper wire installed from the ground terminal screw to the neutral terminal. Purpose: To willfully deceive both private professional home inspectors and city inspectors who rely on a basic GFCI receptacle testing device alone. This results in the home buyer erroneously believing the electrical system is properly grounded and safe, thus increasing the perceived value of the home to justify a higher sales price, and an inflated profit. The buyer pays for the rewiring twice, once in the higher mortgage, and later to actually rewire the home. Solution: Either physically inspect the wiring connections to the new receptacles or use the Extech CT70, the IDEAL Electrical 61-164 Sure-Test Circuit analyzer, or the Amprobe INSP-3 which have the capability to detect a bootleg ground. Both InterNACHI certified and municipal inspectors appear to resist resolving this due to their aversion to liability and risk of litigation. Search for "bootleg ground" to learn more.
This is interesting. I don't have that going on in the place I'm replacing recepticals in, but it does make me wonder if the GFCI outlets I've got that refuse to reset if not properly wired would be smart enough to identify that. Although, if I replace an outlet, I should see if it's at least connected to a ground rather than immediately back to the neutral.
In 2018 electricians are still writing on panels with sharpies ? Label makers have been around for quite some years, or just stick a white label sticker on the panel and write in permanent marker on the sticker. Im just all for cleanliness & ease of reading, there must be something in the code book that forbids label maker stickers or something.
If I'm not mistaken, you can remove the sharpie with a bit of rubbing alcohol. Sharpies are cheap and unlikely to fail unexpectedly. If they do run out of ink and you haven't got a spare, the home owner might have one. But, because they're so cheap, there's no reason not to have spares. If you think that sharpies are bad, my breaker box had the labels scratched into the paint. Try changing that if you need to.
When this was design and installed this is what was acceptable than, and now the inspector said this was good. Keep in mind as you trace the circuit to know where is goes and what it's purpose is for. If a dishwasher and it is dedicated then you do not have to worry about more than 7amps.
How do you get away with stuffing all the ckt load wires through one big hole, not in individual knockouts, thus another reason outside panels are just stupid..since you can't use all the knockouts outside, what a screwy state
Oh, I have been arch flashed before on residential, 120 and 240 volts. It is not a huge concern as your making it out to be. It is however in commercial.
@@Petersonelectricllc If this has happened to you before why do you allow Room for error next time you encounter an Arc Flash in May be a lot bigger than the one you've experienced and it may be the last one you experience. Not to mention the equipment and property you may damage There are times we need To work switch gear hot Have you gone through nfpa 70E training May not be a bad idea to look into this You take electrical work very lightly . Be safe and take care
@@luckymex58 I have accidentally on the line side of a residents meter box touched a meter bar to the meter cabinet and it was loud and bright, but nothing blew up from the transformer and nothing happened to the cabinet. I was not able to turn off when finding a boot leg neutral on the line side of the service. Not sure why your so concerned with me on this video. I always wear gloves and glasses when needed. I would not risk on a commercial gear one bit. I do not get in to calls any more on this type of equipment. We are looking in to PPE for the larger panels at 480 volts. If someone in a resz. has a 120/240 volt panel, the Fault current rating on the back side of the main breaker is seriesied rated in 240. The 10 AIC rated breakers usually always catch this. NOW if the resd. do not have a main breaker and they have the six handle rule in 240 and the transformer is on a pole or in the front yard then there could be an Arch flash, possible. I had a 50 amp range on a 22yr old home have it's coil element shunt at 240 volts on the sub panel in the garage and the main breaker was 50' to the other side of the outside of the garage and there was NO arc flash in the panel and the main breaker was a CH Brown handle and did not flip. I have had other calls this happened to a main breaker and it blew out the inside of the main but it was on an 50 yr plus breaker. the fault current ratings on the main breakers today as a stander on houses is 22k and you can order a 42 k and 65 k. I have installed all types. Look at your phone and add an app, by bussman on fault current cals. Copper vs aluminum, Plus distance of service feeders, plus distance of transformer vs manhole utility splice boxes, plus main breaker series rated vs sub panels, plus the impedenze of the transformer and the type of transformer oil vs dry and the size of the transformer. is what needs to be considered. But keep it simple, what what your doing. In service, you have to trace things hot to find the neutral issue. I was taught this as an appliance tek 20 yrs ago, we were always looking for the return path not finding the neutral bar or path. This is what causes so many electrocutions. Thanks though. what ppe do you suggest as I get back in to service on commercial' panel boards?
I'm an Electrican and really appreciate some of the tips you've shared on your videos. Thanks for sharing. Wish I could thumb up more than once on some of these!
Brother, your solid banner at the bottom is obstructing valuable vision area to see more detail. Can you make it smaller with some transparency or just removed it. By the way great Vd!
I know this is 3 yrs old, but videos like this are why im replacing my normal breakers with arc fault-gfci breakers....and they are pricy (so im buying them 1 or 2 at a time) and by yrs end i will have converted and will sleep better with my wife and kids in the house
great videos. having seen several fireballs over my 40 year career i highly recommend you wear an insulated carhardt rather than a nylon jacket.
my elect bill has been increasing almost monthly and you guys just gave me an idea on how to fix it. Thank you and GREAT video!!!
Video would be better if you had xray eyes because I couldn't see thru the stupid banner also expansion coupling installed incorrectly
if you were smokin that high grade mountain bud youd install improperly too lol
How is it installed incorrectly?
Good job bro. I'm actually watching you change of panel when I've done about 100 200 300 don't even know how many panel changes I've done man
Nice to see a pro at work.
I’m running into a lot of issues with combination breakers and new appliances washers, dishwashers, and fridges. From all the online research I’ve done the best answer I’ve found is from Siemens. They say to install a surge protecting receptacle at the appliance location. That seems like a cop out to me. Do you have any answers to help and are you running into this issue any.
Love your videos, been in the trade 25 years and it’s good to see great tradesmen at work! Keep it up!
Good work ! Keep showing your knowledge , by doing so you are becoming a better electrician and a better person. I am an electrician and guys like you are very valuable . It shows you enjoy what you are doing. Is it possible to get your banner off the screen and maybe getting a sticker on the panels with your name and number for advertising?
Great video. Answered all my questions for my residential upgrade and planned sub-panel installation.
BTW it’s now 2022! I hope I can finish listening to what can be informative while hearing all your ums, uh, & ahh’s.
Oh how nice a Federal fire Pacific panel.
As well as aluminum wiring lol
Why would anyone NOT remove all the aluminum wire going to outlets and switches? I remember that they were an issue with home fires due to the connections not being tightened as they should be. I don't know of problems with larger sizes properly connected at both ends as a feeder.
I have found that even though some installations are grandfathered because of age from AFCI Breakers, some municipalities require AFCI Breakers on home runs once a panel is swapped out, and others do not require it...I lean towards installing Arc Fault Breakers where indicated no matter what age of the house is!
In Arizona we bond the grounds to the water pipes. Houses here in the 70's were all slump block with flat roofs so much fun. Most people here just take the house down to the studs and re-wire all copper get rid of all the aluminum wire, or dry wall cut and put in new copper wiring abandon the old wire. I got a quote for 25k to do that. Wondering all that work your doing panel, and pig-tail must be close to 10k at least?
I agree that going to studs is better, but it is all the other fears of what happens when you do; Asspesties, lead base paint, insulation, mice, sealing, and now if you have 2'x4' exterior walls then you have to spray foam, + windows, doors, trim, cabinets, fixtures, ect....................................
This is why people out here in CO only want to do pig-tail splicing. Typically I have see ALM/Cu with Aluminumicons at $55 to $75 an opening, depending on GFCI and Dimmer vs standard opening, for labor and materials, with two people doing the work, and a pro electrician with licenses and insurance. The only thing extra is to build new lighting fixtures and clean up the boxes. We also do AFCI and trace the circuits. If we do a service change for the AFCI this is more.
Since meter cans are grounded through the neutral lug, there's no need to use ground bushings even if you're going through concentric knockouts. The neutral wire is permitted to be the equipment ground as per 2014 NEC 250.142.
Yes there is a need to use grounding (bonding) bushings around concentric knockouts according to 250.92(B). While the meter enclosure and panel enclosure are bonded to the grounded (neutral) conductor, 250.92 says all raceways (offset nipple in this case) must also be bonded. We can't rely on a bond through concentric knockouts. Although, in this video it appears the panel enclosure was knocked out above the concentric knockout which would adequately bond the raceway and not require grounding bushings. Lastly, the neutral service entrance conductor is permitted to ground service equipment and should not be thought of as an equipment grounding conductor which would only apply on the load side of the service.
They also make Afci receptacles too. Which are cheaper than AFCI
breakers. My understanding is those only fulfill code requirements
though when they are combination devices. Both GFCI and AFCI.
Great video!
I usually make a rough draft of the label then continue
And finalize with the label
This dood always reminds me of the electrician version of Jim Carey’s version of the Cable Guy -great 🤘greeting from England 🇬🇧
all the meters i have seen have a bond between the neutral lug and the meter because almost all underground services in my area are in PVC pipe with the main panel inside the basement with a SE Cable feeding it which doesnt provide you any bonding to the meter.
Hmm, power in your panel? You pulled the meter?
Maine frowns on that? Why did you pull the meter?
Totally agree. Thanks I’ll look up this tool
Very informative... well done.. thank you
Thanks for watching.
Super helpful. Too bad about the big banner at the bottom. Couldn't see anything for the bottom 1/3rd of the screen.
Boy?! That’s so informative!!
Top high!! Like always!!
I dont understand what you were saying about the meter box not having a ground, it does have a #4 to a ground rod correct? maybe I misunderstood what you said
Hey Joshua! In a jamb I borrowed some clear PVC cleaner (from plumber) for marker cleaning. Pretty aggressive but worked. Took old labels off too. I wanted to give you a thumbs up for making honey out of horse manure! Having been there myself, everything you had to do from working with IMC to verifying a 1970's house, you left a fine job! Odd how the AHJ call it different for different jurisdictions. NFPA 70 is written in Quincy Mass. and Mass. has it's own addendum to that code. Power companies different requirements too. Some do the service lateral, some don't. I have one where I go right to the triplex!
I hold Masters in four states and it is something I have to track.
Passed!
Ill take it you got a call from Virginia. Was they from Roanoke ? lol
I have a weird issue that I am looking for a solution for. I have a microwave above my stove on one dedicated normal 20A circuit breaker, when the microwave runs, it pops a AFCI breaker on only one of my bedrooms most of the time. The microwave circuit does not have an issue in any way or time, but the bedroom pops most of the time the microwave runs. The circuitry has not been modified at any time, and the bedroom has a computer as well as the internet via cable modem. The bedroom has no issues at any time except when the microwave turns on. I have checked the conductors in the outlets both in the microwave and bedroom jacks. I will be looking at the neutral and ground bars in the box tomorrow.
Do you have any advice on this situation? I checked the phases these two breakers are on and they are both on the A circuit (Microwave in on the 5th slot left and the bedroom is on the 9th slot right side).
Hoping you might have an idea to check on..
thanks!
Stan Skaggs
Workmanship like manner is code right
He does a great job I just wish the audio was a little louder
can i see the kind of test bulb you use sir?
What's happening PE, you said 15 amp, 14 gauge on a fridge. I'm figuring it's not in a kitchen, everything in a kitchen has to be 20 amps??
Where is expansion joint in PVC conduit feeding meter.socket. Would not pass where I am at. Saw eay too many PVC conduits pull out of glued male adapters pulling wire out of meter socket on meters only mounted 2.5 to 3' off ground.
When OP transitioned from IMC to schedule 80 PVC, he no longer have a bond for the IMC. The code only allows for metallic conduit if it's buried underground and only if needed for pulling as a 90-degree elbow that would get damaged while pulling a drag line.
The SCH 80 is Xcel requirement, not ours. It's on the Line side of the Meter.
@@Petersonelectricllc Poco?
AFCI and AFCI/GFCI dual-function breakers are about the same price. Any reason I shouldn't just get all AFCI/GFCI dual-function breakers for bedrooms, living room, and other areas that aren't explicitly required to have the GFCI component?
Not in our area. It is expected
1958 Home FL! I replaced all 2 prong outlets with GFCI. I have GFCI in bathrooms and kitchens. Can I place AFCI in the panel circuit breakers (15 amp or 20 amp) everywhere but bathrooms? Brining me up to 2017 code compliant?
Michael Myers would love having the breaker panel outside. Jason too.
Copy the electrical transmission ! Just a little easy on breaker resets (lol.) understanding the gloves are rated ? but need no recall !
Kind of defeats the purpose of an expansion joint when you install it completely compressed. Not only that, it's upside down. Inside pipe goes down. The way you have it potential for water to run down the insert and into the conduit, which depending on application, run into the equipment it goes to.
Ground rods yeah you got to have a bridge now too by code
Them arc faults suck for the homeowner but $ for the electrictian what's up with all the outdoor residential panels in Colorado disconnecting means in local code
Panels outside is dumb...extra wear and tear on the breakers, cabinet, rust, moisture, why do they still do it 2018...man, very lax standards out there
This maybe true, BUT it was there and existing as is. If we move the panel than this causes more cost and issues of repairs and AFCI breakers, so most of my customers will not move an existing panel inside and than there are not any areas for us to mount without major damages.
No choice for some old homes (2 foot thick stone walls)
and the only path in must go through the attic.
Having a breaker box in a seriously hard to access space (attic)
is not a good idea.
That said, I located it under the front porch roof overhang
so it never gets direct rain or snow.
Lots of clearance though.
The real reason I never designed panelboards outdoors when the conductors were indoors is that breakers are rated to trip at specific amperes installed within the panel at a specific temperature. I believe 85F but not positive. So what that means is if the panel is outside and the temperature is at 0 F, a 20 amp breaker becomes a 60 ampere trip or higher. If the panel and the conductors were both outside, then no issue as temperature affects conductor ampacity rating as well. I know you had no choice, but wanted to state another reason not to install panels outside. Great job fixing the issues!
Dry climate out there?
Basically now residential is all AFCI/GFCI....with a mains surge protector, AND didn't you upgrade all the outlets to TR? Did i see a GFCI outlet outside? where you plugged in the tester, ain't that a no no, they are no moisture proof are they?
Thank you. This was very informative.
Great work.
White tape on the nuetral?
Got ya I see what you're saying Thanks
Why remove the tapes? .... if you leave them in they could help the next guy ..... and that might just be you ;0) Also another way to remove permanent marker (sharpie?) is to use a fresh permanent marker and Immediately wipe off! You need to do this before the marker dries though ;0)
when did AL or CU become precious metals ?
More Precious than steel or iron. Referring to our trade.
tumbiola obviously inUK -poor people need cash
Thank you
Are your gloves special non-conductive?
George Valente agree George, I thought he was pretty liberal with finger placement in that panel... hah!
They spliced inside a conduit?? Wow, that's an NEC violation. Would have been OK if you have an underground service lateral and did the splice there. NEC 300.13 (A)
I did not splice in a conduit. Where did you see this? What time
I don't think you did I think you said THEY. It was the one with the expansion joint under the meter and an L/B fitting was removed. Sorry, thought I heard you say they spliced in the conduit. Did't think you would do that.
@@Petersonelectricllc Listen to the start of the Update on Arc Fault video April 27 2018 you say they spliced to make the conductors longer inside the conduit. I just wondered
@@mikefox2379 Yah, maybe your right, the job was 5 yrs ago, have a hard time remembering what I see everyday. If they did, your right, the only time that is legal is the LB fittings which have a conductor fill on them.
The $5 GFCI cube shaped outlet tester cannot detect reverse polarity when a false (a.k.a. "bootleg") ground has been installed. This crime increases the risk to fire and electrocution. This crime is most commonly committed by general building contractors engaged in “flipping” pre-1965 built real estate and is found across the country.
Motive: Money. It costs several thousand dollars to rewire a single family residence to meet code. It costs less than one hundred dollars in material and labor expenses to pre-fabricate 30 to 50 wall receptacles with a short jumper wire installed from the ground terminal screw to the neutral terminal.
Purpose: To willfully deceive both private professional home inspectors and city inspectors who rely on a basic GFCI receptacle testing device alone. This results in the home buyer erroneously believing the electrical system is properly grounded and safe, thus increasing the perceived value of the home to justify a higher sales price, and an inflated profit. The buyer pays for the rewiring twice, once in the higher mortgage, and later to actually rewire the home.
Solution: Either physically inspect the wiring connections to the new receptacles or use the Extech CT70, the IDEAL Electrical 61-164 Sure-Test Circuit analyzer, or the Amprobe INSP-3 which have the capability to detect a bootleg ground. Both InterNACHI certified and municipal inspectors appear to resist resolving this due to their aversion to liability and risk of litigation. Search for "bootleg ground" to learn more.
EXCELLENT COMMENT!!!
This is interesting. I don't have that going on in the place I'm replacing recepticals in, but it does make me wonder if the GFCI outlets I've got that refuse to reset if not properly wired would be smart enough to identify that.
Although, if I replace an outlet, I should see if it's at least connected to a ground rather than immediately back to the neutral.
Meter socket is grounded by the neutral
What is the white box on the ground wire?
ScottDLR It is a ground bar for low voltage systems to bond their equipment to.
It's a bonding bridge used to bond incoming cable/phone systems... back in the day they used a big clamp on the meter base which never had a ground
I did the same thing ( cross the neutral on the breaker) LOL
In 2018 electricians are still writing on panels with sharpies ? Label makers have been around for quite some years, or just stick a white label sticker on the panel and write in permanent marker on the sticker. Im just all for cleanliness & ease of reading, there must be something in the code book that forbids label maker stickers or something.
If I'm not mistaken, you can remove the sharpie with a bit of rubbing alcohol. Sharpies are cheap and unlikely to fail unexpectedly. If they do run out of ink and you haven't got a spare, the home owner might have one. But, because they're so cheap, there's no reason not to have spares.
If you think that sharpies are bad, my breaker box had the labels scratched into the paint. Try changing that if you need to.
Sharpies will erase sharpies if you re-wet it and quickly wipe it off.
Great video!
pls turn off the company web address - its covering up too much of the image (using Edge browser on Windows)
Good stuff. Keep it ip
What, wire nuts in the panel
"butt splice" in the pc conduit?
Only allowed to make a halve ass concealed splice like that on class 2 low voltage wires. Would get fired for doing a splive like that.
wrong on # 12 A/L is good for 15 amps 20 amp you use #10
When this was design and installed this is what was acceptable than, and now the inspector said this was good. Keep in mind as you trace the circuit to know where is goes and what it's purpose is for. If a dishwasher and it is dedicated then you do not have to worry about more than 7amps.
Isn't A/L wire already oversized Awg than copper..? So 12awg A/L is rated for 20a.
Probably depends on manufacture, but I use my stippers to gauage this. Also, I think it is 240 d and 110.14 c that talks about this
Forcing homeowners to spend $50 a breaker is A SCAM..!
You don't need a ground bushing it's all freaking connected anyways man
Those generic testers are useless, and give false readings, never use them
cengeb what kind can I just type in generic testers failure?
I believe they do not sense ground or nuetral reversed...
How do you get away with stuffing all the ckt load wires through one big hole, not in individual knockouts, thus another reason outside panels are just stupid..since you can't use all the knockouts outside, what a screwy state
Expansion joint is wrongly installed, and your panel is live bud. Big no no.
Chandler arizona
Easier to wire
Arc fault breakers are BULLSHIT these breaker/copper companies have their fingers WAY too far into the NEC. Profits are priority.
Yeah using a 2X slip fitting man that's cheating
AL and CU are not precious metals.
Oh you got a death wish you are not familiar with arc flash ...... or nfpa 70 e
Oh, I have been arch flashed before on residential, 120 and 240 volts. It is not a huge concern as your making it out to be. It is however in commercial.
@@Petersonelectricllc If this has happened to you before why do you allow Room for error next time you encounter an Arc Flash in May be a lot bigger than the one you've experienced and it may be the last one you experience. Not to mention the equipment and property you may damage There are times we need To work switch gear hot Have you gone through nfpa 70E training May not be a bad idea to look into this You take electrical work very lightly . Be safe and take care
@@luckymex58 I have accidentally on the line side of a residents meter box touched a meter bar to the meter cabinet and it was loud and bright, but nothing blew up from the transformer and nothing happened to the cabinet. I was not able to turn off when finding a boot leg neutral on the line side of the service.
Not sure why your so concerned with me on this video. I always wear gloves and glasses when needed. I would not risk on a commercial gear one bit. I do not get in to calls any more on this type of equipment. We are looking in to PPE for the larger panels at 480 volts. If someone in a resz. has a 120/240 volt panel, the Fault current rating on the back side of the main breaker is seriesied rated in 240. The 10 AIC rated breakers usually always catch this. NOW if the resd. do not have a main breaker and they have the six handle rule in 240 and the transformer is on a pole or in the front yard then there could be an Arch flash, possible.
I had a 50 amp range on a 22yr old home have it's coil element shunt at 240 volts on the sub panel in the garage and the main breaker was 50' to the other side of the outside of the garage and there was NO arc flash in the panel and the main breaker was a CH Brown handle and did not flip. I have had other calls this happened to a main breaker and it blew out the inside of the main but it was on an 50 yr plus breaker. the fault current ratings on the main breakers today as a stander on houses is 22k and you can order a 42 k and 65 k. I have installed all types. Look at your phone and add an app, by bussman on fault current cals.
Copper vs aluminum, Plus distance of service feeders, plus distance of transformer vs manhole utility splice boxes, plus main breaker series rated vs sub panels, plus the impedenze of the transformer and the type of transformer oil vs dry and the size of the transformer. is what needs to be considered. But keep it simple, what what your doing. In service, you have to trace things hot to find the neutral issue. I was taught this as an appliance tek 20 yrs ago, we were always looking for the return path not finding the neutral bar or path. This is what causes so many electrocutions.
Thanks though. what ppe do you suggest as I get back in to service on commercial' panel boards?
@@Petersonelectricllc For you I would recommend in 8 cal Suit You don't get into big switch gear like I do where I have to suit up with a 30 cal suit
@@luckymex58 ok thanks, what brand or website?
You're a master electrician you don't know about bonding come on man
No
Very untidy panel..
All this guy complains but you have a company they don't jjjaa thank
your sound is so low can barely hear you even after I turned up my speakers all of the way.