Thanks! Super fun. When the current or south swells are pushing backwards, the runs seem more compressed, steeper and slower in sections. Then it will stretch out. As if the ocean is breathing. I try to throw caution to the wind and hope for some connections. Sometimes I get lucky.
Ha ha, thanks, I'll take that as a compliment that I appear relaxed. Judging from my heart rate in the right hand corner, that's right where I wanted to be. Too high actually, but those waves were tempting in the extreme. I was at day 6 in a row of much harder days than that. I need to be careful not to over do it - or I can get sore. I do some zone 4 and 5, but not much. Most importantly, my technique isn't good enough to gain much by 'going harder'. Additional effort is better spent on posture, breathing etc, etc...
@@lawrencerisley7231 I'm so jealous, looks like you're really having fun. Having spent almost 40 years in SF Bay jumping that same mix of 25 mph wind waves and ocean swells, watching your video I felt like it was me in your boat. What a kick, once you've got the speed up, running down the face of those waves, dropping in the next from one to another, the nose trying to bury itself and the spray stinging my face. Leaning out on the paddle skimming the surface for some semblance of stability, yes and yes!! I used to build my own surfskis; carbon fiber, 21 ft long and every one too skinny for my skill level, meaning another year of terror out in the water. Still, even at 76 with a couple of spinal surgeries, I still have the memories from all those years enjoying the best fun. Enjoy the heck out of it and thanks for the ride, Peter. PS Always stay tethered, I've rarely felt quite so stupid as the time I watched my boat blow away from me, once.
@@peteredridge9559 I'm good about the leash. I wear a waist leash connected to the handle at the back of the ski. Standard leg coil leashes have failed me more than once. The waist leash will not break. I can land without clipping out - very important where I finish. It's often got some sort of surf - full of kids. A loose boat could kill someone. I also use a Mocke paddle leash, which may come in handy some day. I may need to help someone... I got all my safety ideas from the Cape Town gang at surfski.info - when I started, in 2010. PLB, Flotation, Phone, bright colors. We haven't had any deaths (that I'm aware of) due to lack of safety stuff in HI, but so many have been so very close...
Crazy good conditions and even better surfing! 😊
Thanks! Super fun. When the current or south swells are pushing backwards, the runs seem more compressed, steeper and slower in sections. Then it will stretch out. As if the ocean is breathing. I try to throw caution to the wind and hope for some connections. Sometimes I get lucky.
Next time try working a little harder and really chase those waves down.
Ha ha, thanks, I'll take that as a compliment that I appear relaxed. Judging from my heart rate in the right hand corner, that's right where I wanted to be. Too high actually, but those waves were tempting in the extreme.
I was at day 6 in a row of much harder days than that. I need to be careful not to over do it - or I can get sore. I do some zone 4 and 5, but not much.
Most importantly, my technique isn't good enough to gain much by 'going harder'. Additional effort is better spent on posture, breathing etc, etc...
@@lawrencerisley7231 I'm so jealous, looks like you're really having fun. Having spent almost 40 years in SF Bay jumping that same mix of 25 mph wind waves and ocean swells, watching your video I felt like it was me in your boat. What a kick, once you've got the speed up, running down the face of those waves, dropping in the next from one to another, the nose trying to bury itself and the spray stinging my face. Leaning out on the paddle skimming the surface for some semblance of stability, yes and yes!!
I used to build my own surfskis; carbon fiber, 21 ft long and every one too skinny for my skill level, meaning another year of terror out in the water. Still, even at 76 with a couple of spinal surgeries, I still have the memories from all those years enjoying the best fun.
Enjoy the heck out of it and thanks for the ride, Peter.
PS Always stay tethered, I've rarely felt quite so stupid as the time I watched my boat blow away from me, once.
@@peteredridge9559 I'm good about the leash. I wear a waist leash connected to the handle at the back of the ski. Standard leg coil leashes have failed me more than once. The waist leash will not break. I can land without clipping out - very important where I finish. It's often got some sort of surf - full of kids. A loose boat could kill someone.
I also use a Mocke paddle leash, which may come in handy some day. I may need to help someone...
I got all my safety ideas from the Cape Town gang at surfski.info - when I started, in 2010. PLB, Flotation, Phone, bright colors. We haven't had any deaths (that I'm aware of) due to lack of safety stuff in HI, but so many have been so very close...