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Great content again from Paul. I do like to see professionals with a “have at it” attitude. Paul’s, ‘I don’t like that, I like it done my way” approach, no ummms and ahhhsss, just chalk line and grind off the affected parts. Brilliant. I’m sure that attitude is a time saver in the long run. Now, onto episode 2………👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
If someone is willing to pay their hard earned money for it i will give it my best for them, I wouldn't expect any less from a tradesman if I were paying. I do love doing this
Really nice to see how you finish off the welds after welding. Defo like to see more videos on how to fabricate, welding and how to clean welds. Great work!
I've seen numerous Mini restoration bodywork done in real life and here on YT, and they deal with underbody rust repairs by replacing each panel, the inner, outer sills, floor etc. But your method here of removing the complete floor looks as the best way to do it. Getting the correct fit, especially the door gaps and so on would also be much easier. Outstanding work. 🐞
Thankyou. It does depend on the history of the car, whether it's had previous repairs, how badly corroded it is, how thin the surviving metal is and ofcourse the owners budget. Repairing/preserving often costs more than replacing. So many people do not understand these concerns
Man I'd love to find one of these cars here in the states.. I absolutely love those cars... she's gonna be a bute when you're done working your magic on it.. 🎉🎉🎉
Outstanding work, absolutely loving watching all of your videos so far, Paul. I would love to see a masterclass video from you on how you set up and use your spot welder (surface prep, electrode gapping, power/time settings etc.). You make it look so easy to get perfectly repeatable factory looking spot welds, from (what looks like) exactly the same spot welder model I have. My welds are so inconsistent in comparison, varying from barely holding the panels together, to burning right through them, even with the same setup. Would be amazing to learn your secrets, there is so little good content about spot welding technique on RUclips.
That is something I am looking to do. I'm glad you brought it up as I wasn't sure if there would be much interest. It is mainly about pressure, you need too much rather than not enough to pull the panels together and not blow through
G’day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 I think your channel is addictive you only have to watch one and your hooked like me and subscribed. Seriously though you do a really good joints and welding, one thing which is a terrific thing you do is warn people that you will have flashing lights extremely considerate, I look forward to the next instalment kind regards John
Thankyou, I'm so glad you're enjoying it. I'll be honest - I probably wouldn't have thought to warn about the flashing light so full credit to the professionalism of Jnr. Wigi
something i do on welding sections in that i havent seen anyone else do over the years is to deliberately make the final cut right through the middle of a drilled out spot weld hole on the flange, then on the new section do the same so both sections have a semi circle that join up to make a full plug hole. this is where the butt weld is. i find its alot easier to weld to the bottom panel and walk that puddle to the edge of the lip without it blowing out on quite a few occasions with a normal butt weld it can blow out the top where you trying to hit the lower panel too not saying its better either way just something i havent seen any one else do excellent work, my classic cars of choice, are the 60's and 70's rear engine skodas, here in the UK its pretty hard to find new panels esp shell panels so i can see the appeal of restoring british classics that have a good panel supply or the tools to make them. when you order the new floor cant you ask them not to fully weld the parts you going to drill out? would a plasma cutter make a better tool to slice to old stuff apart, i've been doing collision and some resto as work since '86 and now i have retired i got myself a cheap 55amp plasma cutter and boy i wish i had of got one long time ago, would have halved the time and materials on cut outs etc
Top work as usual paul. Giving me a bit of a kick to get my british open repaired. One question for you, what do you recommend for drilling out the spot welds? Ive used spot weld drill bits to some varied success
I make my own spotweld drills from a normal twist drill, bought ones are good but wear out so need resharpening anyway. I use an 1/8" bit first just make a small mark in the centre of the spotweld which guides the spotweld drill
The only problem I had on my 1966 1275S was the replacement top engine steady bracket fitted to the bulkhead, the angle of the bend of that bracket made the engine steady tie bar too high to fit to bolt to the cylinder head by about 25mm, just a little hassle.
I’ve just bought a mk1 and it needs pretty much the same work, previous repairs are horrendous. I’m a mechanic but have zero welding skills. Panels themselves ain’t that expensive. Dread to think how much the labour is on this job 😬
There wasn't much of the original car when it arrived. There is a big difference between a restoration and a preservation, you are thinking of preservation, this is a restoration. Unfortunately with these cars being 60+ years old now there often isn't much to preserve
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We hope you enjoy the video!
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If you have got a mini that needs work, this is the man to take it to .
Great content again from Paul. I do like to see professionals with a “have at it” attitude. Paul’s, ‘I don’t like that, I like it done my way” approach, no ummms and ahhhsss, just chalk line and grind off the affected parts. Brilliant. I’m sure that attitude is a time saver in the long run. Now, onto episode 2………👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
If someone is willing to pay their hard earned money for it i will give it my best for them, I wouldn't expect any less from a tradesman if I were paying. I do love doing this
@@PWCV-YT Then your reputation is sealed! If only everyone had that singular approach……… Well done Paul, keep em coming!!
Really nice to see how you finish off the welds after welding. Defo like to see more videos on how to fabricate, welding and how to clean welds. Great work!
There will be
I've seen numerous Mini restoration bodywork done in real life and here on YT, and they deal with underbody rust repairs by replacing each panel, the inner, outer sills, floor etc. But your method here of removing the complete floor looks as the best way to do it. Getting the correct fit, especially the door gaps and so on would also be much easier. Outstanding work. 🐞
Thankyou. It does depend on the history of the car, whether it's had previous repairs, how badly corroded it is, how thin the surviving metal is and ofcourse the owners budget. Repairing/preserving often costs more than replacing. So many people do not understand these concerns
Master of metal works, Great job 👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Great video and the music volume is much better matched to the talking,thanks to your editor 👍
We took on the feedback some people gave and kept the music all at one level. It was a little easier to edit in the end too xD
- Jr. Wigi (Editor)
There's good and there's perfection 👍
🙏 Thankyou
Must admit Paul when you ripped the floor out , l thought why ? But your knowledge knew the reason why . Terrific ! Thankyou
Thanks Paul for posting. Lots of effort and time went into making that video.
Fortunately it's the kind of effort we love - I love my metal work and Jnr. Wigi loves editing
Man I'd love to find one of these cars here in the states.. I absolutely love those cars... she's gonna be a bute when you're done working your magic on it.. 🎉🎉🎉
Gotta be one of the best restorers in the uk.
Thankyou. I certainly try my best
Amazing work, a pleasure to watch
Love minis, had a 1964 997 cooper back in the day then bought a 70 cooper s mk 2, great little cars👍
Amazing work Paul
Nice work. Thanks for posting.
Thankyou
You make that look easy!
Outstanding work, absolutely loving watching all of your videos so far, Paul.
I would love to see a masterclass video from you on how you set up and use your spot welder (surface prep, electrode gapping, power/time settings etc.). You make it look so easy to get perfectly repeatable factory looking spot welds, from (what looks like) exactly the same spot welder model I have. My welds are so inconsistent in comparison, varying from barely holding the panels together, to burning right through them, even with the same setup. Would be amazing to learn your secrets, there is so little good content about spot welding technique on RUclips.
That is something I am looking to do. I'm glad you brought it up as I wasn't sure if there would be much interest. It is mainly about pressure, you need too much rather than not enough to pull the panels together and not blow through
another great video 👌👍
Thankyou
G’day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 I think your channel is addictive you only have to watch one and your hooked like me and subscribed. Seriously though you do a really good joints and welding, one thing which is a terrific thing you do is warn people that you will have flashing lights extremely considerate, I look forward to the next instalment kind regards John
Thankyou, I'm so glad you're enjoying it. I'll be honest - I probably wouldn't have thought to warn about the flashing light so full credit to the professionalism of Jnr. Wigi
I have to say a fascinating channel. Regards Haley
Aww, thankyou Haley
Great job.
Cool tunes. Sounds like an AC/DC cover band freestyling.
@@herenow2895 my thoughts exactly, but there have been a few very rude comments about it
@@PWCV-YT - I guess you cant expect everybody to have good taste in cars and music.
Deserves more subscribers
Thankyou. Hopefully they will come
i wish i can finish projects as fast as you
Lovely, tell yer mum!
something i do on welding sections in that i havent seen anyone else do over the years is to deliberately make the final cut right through the middle of a drilled out spot weld hole on the flange, then on the new section do the same so both sections have a semi circle that join up to make a full plug hole.
this is where the butt weld is.
i find its alot easier to weld to the bottom panel and walk that puddle to the edge of the lip without it blowing out
on quite a few occasions with a normal butt weld it can blow out the top where you trying to hit the lower panel too
not saying its better either way just something i havent seen any one else do
excellent work,
my classic cars of choice, are the 60's and 70's rear engine skodas, here in the UK its pretty hard to find new panels esp shell panels so i can see the appeal of restoring british classics that have a good panel supply or the tools to make them.
when you order the new floor cant you ask them not to fully weld the parts you going to drill out?
would a plasma cutter make a better tool to slice to old stuff apart, i've been doing collision and some resto as work since '86 and now i have retired i got myself a cheap 55amp plasma cutter and boy i wish i had of got one long time ago, would have halved the time and materials on cut outs etc
Top work as usual paul. Giving me a bit of a kick to get my british open repaired.
One question for you, what do you recommend for drilling out the spot welds? Ive used spot weld drill bits to some varied success
I make my own spotweld drills from a normal twist drill, bought ones are good but wear out so need resharpening anyway. I use an 1/8" bit first just make a small mark in the centre of the spotweld which guides the spotweld drill
The only problem I had on my 1966 1275S was the replacement top engine steady bracket fitted to the bulkhead, the angle of the bend of that bracket made the engine steady tie bar too high to fit to bolt to the cylinder head by about 25mm, just a little hassle.
That sounds odd. Was the bracket replaced at some point?
Can I ask, what's the elapsed time to get to this stage please?
around 50-60 hours, I'd have to check the calendar. The complete job will be around 120 hours
How much of the original body/chasis needs to be retained to keep the original VIN number
No idea but it's replaced like for like. A panel is a part - no different to fitting new brake pads as far as I'm concerned
I’ve just bought a mk1 and it needs pretty much the same work, previous repairs are horrendous. I’m a mechanic but have zero welding skills. Panels themselves ain’t that expensive. Dread to think how much the labour is on this job 😬
This is quite typical of a Mk1 these days, it's around 120-130 hours
New shell
Except for the 60 year old bits
Wouldn't call it restoration more rebuild, not lot left of original car, still xlent work and build.
There wasn't much of the original car when it arrived. There is a big difference between a restoration and a preservation, you are thinking of preservation, this is a restoration. Unfortunately with these cars being 60+ years old now there often isn't much to preserve
What ever it is your doing exlent job, 👍
Class act mate !!!
Focus on prestige cars surely with your skills .
Not these shit mini’s
@@kevinparker5363 I spent 30 years restoring Aston Martin at the factory and in independent dealers, now I'm focusing my effort where my heart lies