After watching this I checked all my sensors and there was oil build up on the sensors. Cleaned them off and my shuddering went right away. More responsive and added MPG also. Thank you for the solution.
Nice. I just bought a 2014 F-150 ecoboost about two weeks ago. I am trying to learn everything about these engines as much as I can. Thank for your video.
Thanks, appreciate the video availability! I just got my 2016 F150 XLT with the 3.5L Ecoboost, and it's running fine, but I'd like to learn as much as I can on this particular engine, and try to keep it running smoothly as well as with longevity! Thankfully, the previous owner took the truck to the same Ford dealership that it was bought at, for it's services, so I had them print off all the past services from new (quite a bundle). The truck already has 125K, but runs smooth, so I'm thankful for these suggestions on cleaning these sensors! I've also ordered two catch-can's and one way valves, which I'll install in the next week or two. Thanks also for the tip on spark plugs, as I'll try and learn all I can on that as well. I already have some electrical contact cleaner, so I should be good to go! Thanks again, as I live in western Canada, and believe with our humidity, the catch-can addition should be helpful!
Thanks for the video man! Coming from building turbo cars when I was younger which all ran on speed density, keeping the sensors clean is absolutely key.
As a tech with about 30yrs started around 84 full time around 88 cleaning your sensors is something I always did a lot of.Many shops used to just install new sensors but I always thought it wasn’t fair ,not that I thought they were trying to rip anyone off I just think it was a common practice due to fault codes,dealer recommended repairs etc..many cars over the yrs have had issues with the PCV systems with oil build up, ford used to have a filter in the back of the intakes that would plug up..anyway nice tip to help out the DIY ;) ..
Love the video! But man I feel like an idiot, I do a oil change and couldn’t be prouder👍 to me Mechanics and Engineers are like tribesmen viewed doctors, I’m amazed!!! You’d be like the ultimate neighbor for a Ecoboost owner, any houses near you for sale? Awesome calm video, I’d take a tooth brush to the sensor and ruin it, cause I’m a salesman, meaning I have absolutely no skills at all.
For all the catch can haters out there... this is why you run a catch can on your dirty side... it keeps all of this from happening. Good info here but we should really talk about the cause. Not to mention how oily your intercooler and other components are.
Hey thanks for taking the time to make the video. I had cleaned the one right near the air filter but had no idea of the other two sensors. Guess what I'm going to do next? On another note I removed the entire bed on my truck tar/painted frame and used bed liner spray under my bed. So spraying sensors seems like a vacation had to purchase new bolts and clips for bed. I don't recommend anyone do this unless they know what they are doing. Took a few days...I should have shot a video but did take pictures! Also hate the way the hitch is installed between the c clips and cheesy plastic clips yuk. Thanks again...
The MAP sensor lives in oil and crankcase fumes.. youd have to clean it every oil change if it was that big of a deal 🤔🤔 as long as it doesnt thickly coat the sensing strip inside you'll be fine, hence the cage surrounding it MAF sensors are prone to new air filter particles & other light or heavy road debree protruding past the filter, smacking the bimetallic strip.. so cleaning your MAF or MAP is more of a last ditch attempt to hope it actually work after all else has failed.. so yea it doesnt hurt to clean it. Heres a Tip, if you lightly tap the maf sensor at idle, and the hesitation temporarily goes away, its a defective MAF.. no need to check 12V power & 5V signal and/or 2k to 7k Hertz @ idle etc etc etc, depending on design. 👍 Also, all the DIY/non-mechanically inclined watching this, be verrryyy careful with your MAF, as 60% of cars now also have the IAT sensor fused into the same sensor, just in a different part of it, so make sure u actually KNOW which 1 your cleaning, and DO NOT poke it with a screw driver to try and clean hard gunk off of it. Youve been warned :) Also the 'fix' was reported as drilling a weep hole in your intercooler as to let the condensation drain out and not be sucked in the intake, diluting your A/F ratio, hence misfire. BUT Fords TSB states to DITCH that approach, and actually just REMOVE your 2 Air deflectors 1 at the top of the intercooler and 1 at the bottom, THEN Reflash your PCM.PROBLEM SOLVED. But by all means throw the $$ at the parts guy first, plugs, wires, you name it ^^. I think your random hope/approach is much more cost friendly to the viewer, so you can atleast get a thumbs up for that. Guess away my friends!
This is valid when cars use a maf actually as a maf. These trucks have one but only use it as an IAT, not as a maf. So the hesitation is the sluggish MAP response. Those sensors are designed to live in an air environment not an oil bath as other commenters are suggesting.
thanks for this video mine was doing the same thing changed coil boots top and bottum changed plugs and gaped them at .0028 I think it was,and presto no more rough idle I am still how ever going to take out my sensors like you did and give them a good once over.Thanks a ton!
Yes, I highly recommend the 28 thousandths gap on good NGK plugs, clean the sensors periodically and install a catch can. Then get a 91 octane tune and thank me later. I have been running trouble free tuned for ~50k miles. Catch cans are definitely needed. I will be switching to the one linked in the description.
I've had my 2012 F150 EB for a year now and it has always had this problem. After my local mechanic cleared some codes that it has had since I bought it (from a FORD dealership), he started it up for me and I asked him if he noticed the misfire. He told me that it did not trip any codes for a misfire but could he could feel it. Since he was only getting my truck running for me because of all the codes prevented it from running, I didn't have him address the issue. I will do this in the very near future and upgrade the ignition. Thank you for the information.
I did a catch can on my 2018 f150 2.7 ecoboost. It does catch about a full can ever oil change. So that would be a lot of oil over time so I could see why that would be a problem
Mine did this with the plugs once I did that it was running like a kitten again.... I been reading and it's sounds like you should change them once everyone 70k. I'll keep your tips in mind too thanks man!
The difference is some of us hold multiple degrees, while others may not. Bottom line is sensors get dirty and slow response time. If a video about film buildup slowing the thermal response times as a function of thermodynamic laws is helpful, I can do that. :)
Yes, this would work. Honestly any solvent would do fine to get the film off. Catch cans are definitely needed. I will be switching to the one linked in the description.
Lol my dad took his truck to the mechanic and they told him that the shuddering was his carrier bearing... WHILE THE CAR WAS PARKED! Pretty sure you have to drive the car to feel a bad carrier bearing. Goin to try this on his truck when I get home today..
Hey guys -great videos here and I'm taking it all in after buying what looks to be a new 2017 Expedition! I want to follow along with the necessary modifications and maintenance to keep her in tip top shape. It appears to have lived in a garage as everything is minty clean, in and out. It has 75K on the clock and I'd like to get caught up with any work that you guys would recommend. Please give me a short list of "must do" items and I'll report back now and again on my progress. The reason I'm here is because I noticed the rpms at idle acting exactly as yours were...
I would do the gapped down plugs like I have linked in the description, but with a 28 thousandths gap, install a catch can. I am about to buy the catch can I have linked in the description, but you should be able to find one for the expedition on amazon like it for the 17. Then there will be some more videos coming where I take off the throttle body and check the backside of my valves with a camera and I will either prove or disprove the cleaning power of methanol injection...lots of info to come. Also, methanol means I can have more boost. Stay tuned. ;)
I'm having the idle issue -it hunts around from 550-ish to 600-ish, very slight but it's def there I can feel it. I'm wondering why yours at vid beginning is hunting around 1K, but at the end of your vid is more like mine. I can still see it fluctuate -mine looks the same as yours (at the end). Did the (3) sensor cleaning get you the smoother idle?
Great video, you showed the one way valves on either side of the banks, but where or how are you getting fresh air supply. That i didnt see. Thanks in advance
My engine started to shutter occasionally on idle and the check engine light came on. I'll definitely wanna clean the sensors. Thanks for the information.
I have a 2018 F150 with the 3.5l and am getting the shudder with less than 3k miles on engine. Guess ill be taking it in for the safety belt recall and to address the rough idle.
Thank you so much for this helpful video. Have you come across the issue of losing complete power? I was on the on ramp and lost complete power, luckily there was light traffic and I was able to pull to the side. Turn off the truck and drove home safely. Took it to the dealer and wasn't help. Searched online and saw that folks experienced as a turbo issue Again thank you for the video.
Novakane_SC i was having this prob and especially at acceleration on highway or up a hill. Plugs changed and still misfired into limp mode. Limp mode is a safety feature that shuts you down completely. I drilled a tiny 1/16th inch weep hole on bottom of intercooler. A ton of fluid drained out and completely solved my problem 100%
If that is the case, it is possible that a vent line is plugged from the crank case, which causes pressure buildup is a possibility. That or a significant buildup of oil can cause that. The key to that problem is that crank case pressure builds up and causes too much resistance and the engine is forced to stop rotating. Cleaning the throttle body is also rumored to help, thought I haven't done that yet in 80k miles.
That is correct, but keep in mind these trucks do NOT use the maf as a maf, they are only used for IAT measurements. The other two are MAP sensors. I misspoke in the video. Its not worth re-editing to correct.
Thank you for the video. I learned a lot from it. You also mentioned another common problem of ecoboost which build up of carbon on the back of the valves and hence you installed the catch can. Is there a good method to clean those valves other than taking the engine apart?
Very informative! Thank you . Just purchased a 2015 F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost and want to keep it running good without a bunch of crazy, and very expensive upgrades or tuning. In regards to the check valves you installed, I'm assuming you can check the direction of flow prior to installing or they have a direction printed on them? And where did you get them? Thanks again because I hate 120.00 dollar an hour shop rates!! And the added 5% added to your repair bill so parts changers get paid to clean their tools and put them away.
One thing I don’t understand about the one way check valve, Fords original hose before catch can did not have a check valve what so ever, it’s just a hose with fancy ends that allows vent to happen. Why would that be any different with a catch can? Seems to me people are over thinking the catch can. Thoughts?
The catch cans are a needed factor on these trucks, cars and suvs. Ford has to have the engine reingest these vapors for the sake of emissions. We as customers can address a known issue like this with catch cans. My specific catch cans were less effective before the check valves. The new system I will install with get a video to follow this topic. I am also working right now on a mythbuster video for methanol injection cleaning the backs of the valves...so I have a lot more videos to do about this topic. Stay tuned.
Great video. Thanks. My truck even turned off on me while idling yesterday. I got a diagnostic message when I connected it at the auto part store of P1450, and another video said it was the purge valve. Would this fix it or do you think they are unrelated. Nevertheless, I’ll clean the sensors, too. I got 67k miles on it, and I’m sure they are not doing too well. Thanks again.
That specific code is a failure of the purge solenoid for the high pressure fuel system, which should be located under the engine cover or on the drivers side near the top of the motor. The auto parts store should have them or be able to get the gas purge solenoid for you. The sensor cleaning should help idle after the purge valve is replaced.
NickelNDiminIt thank you for the response. I’ll do both, then. You got yourself a new sub. I plan on keeping my truck for a while, and any channel that helps me with this is greatly appreciated.
this worked perfectly on 2013 3.5 EB f150. Started shuddering/rough idle right after deal did recall update. This fix cleared it right up. only question is, what do I do with this new set of spark plugs? Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad it helped. The plugs I use with the gap info are now linked in the description. 28 thousandths gap has worked great for me on a 91 tune for about 50k miles.
Hey, how’s the going. Just purchased Lincoln mkt 2019, 3.5l eco boost turbo with similar problems. Engine starts but won’t accelerate with rough idle. New York is the location and just wanted to know if we can hire you to resolve the issues. Pls respond ASAP. Thanks
Wait... That's a v6 turbo. Right? On other catch-can installation videos, people suggest placing a check valve on the tube connecting to the throttle intake, with the arrow pointing towards it, not to the other tube exiting the crankcase top, like you've done. Can you please advise us, as to whether or not we should then install check valves on BOTH tubes. Presumably, arrow pointing out from the crankcase, and arrow pointing in, at the intake. Or what? Please advise.
If your catch can system was working correctly, why would you be getting oil in the intake? A proper catch can system should prevent any oil from getting into the intake tube.
My mpg display went from 20 mpg down to 7 mpg. Are the levels on the mpg display telling us something? How do you read them. What are the telling us? Thanks for the video
love the video i checked the sensors on my f250 2012 i only found the sensor by the air filter...could someone help me out where the rest are please, if there are any more.
this worked perfectly on 2013 3.5 EB f150. Started shuddering/rough idle right after deal did recall update. This fix cleared it right up. only question is, what do I do with this new set of spark plugs? Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!
I am shopping for F150's but I just can't bring myself to buy a $50000 truck, only to have to re-engineer it myself. I love the way the f150 rides and drives, but I've seen way too many 'fix' videos for them. Seems like every brand in the same. THey build crap, and sell it for a bazillion dollars, and there is nothing we can do about it. Harumph. Ef it. Thinking the best thing to do is not buying anything at all.
the thing is not re engineering them its the maintenance !!!!! keep your sensors clean!!! and this is a turbo motor you must install a catch can to keep the blow by or back out of the engine also all the crying is from folks who dont know whats going on firts step is know your TRUCK!!!!!! and remember TRUCKS cant fix their self!
Try looking also at problems with the eco-diesel dodge and jeep products, or any of the turbocharged direct injection motors. These aren't going away, so your options are high mileage less efficient vehicles or newer vehicles with newer maintenance problems. To be clear for all those looking, the dealers and manufacturers couldn't care less about your maintenance concerns so long as you buy from them. Picking a vehicle with known solutions already available from front-runners like me means less headache when things break. Otherwise you will be at the mercy of the dealers.
The first one gets dirty from fine particles that get past the air filter these trucks are also known for condensation and oil that from the turbos to collect in the intercooler and does make it's way up to the throttle body to affect the second map sensor
6:54 The larger block on the right, seems like it doesn't do much cleaning it. It's just a resistor. The other two, MAF sensors, probably are much more sensitive to the cleaning, and probably the reason why the vehicle was idling rough.
The first sensor is a maf, the other two are map sensors. I misspoke there. But the computers use the maf signal as an IAT sensor rather than a maf. They are sensitive to buildup.
I will try this when the weather warms a bit..I have a cylinder 2 code came up when I punched the gas pedal a bit.. engine light did fast flash for a minute or so at highway speed then the light went out and everything went back to normal..Changed the plug and coil pack.. any other ideas besides this sensor cleaning? Thanks in advance.
My Ford F150 2016 ecoboost stumbles / shudders and engine misses at idling and when I press brake pedal it increases. My mechanic said it’s manufacturing fault which I don’t believe. Please advise.
Unless I misunderstood the direction of the check valve on the driver side, I think you put it on backwards. The driver side valve cover is where clean air enters, goes through the engine crankcase and exits at the PCV then into the intake. So really the check valve on the driver side is unnecessary.
The driver side tube on my truck was always the dirtiest and most oil filled, whether it should be or not. Ideally there should be a fresh air entry, but I haven't had any issues so far. I think these 3.5s have far more blow by than most folks would acknowledge. I am going to be changing to the catch can system in the description soon.
Have you changed to the catch can yet, if so did you do a video on it? By the way I have almost 200k on my truck and the only thing I have changed is my oil. I just changed all my fluids this week. No other major or minor issues. I personally have had more problems with Chevy and Dodge's never again for me.
You do realize that those check valves are built into the pcv system. So your just adding 2 more. Otherwise in factory condition itd pressurize the crankcase
There is what looks like a check valve in the factory system on the passenger side, but it is not a check valve because it does not seal against pressurization. It is just a restrictor really and not a real check valve. So I am aware of the intended function.
correct me if I am wrong but a catch can is of a lot of help to any direct injected motor. The reason it is more helpful to a turbo is that you get a lot more blow back?
Jon Jon correct the 2011-2017 ecoboosts have misfire issues because the blow by starts collecting in the intercooler then begins coating the spark plugs ruining them and the coil packs
if you use the right oil there is nothing to worry about direct injection motors burn way hotter than non turbos ....regular oil will burn and coke up on the back side of the valve steams and cause engine failure,I run a full synthetic oil they are good about not causing this trouble as they have a higher heat threshold.@@blackericdenice
If that engine needed a catch can. Ford would have put one on there. You are a follower. Someone created a problem that doesn’t exist. You just had to run outside and install the same thing on your truck.
@@craigoverlease1150 I have a 2016 F150 2.7 I bought brand new. It now has 42,000 miles and I did a blow-by test video at about 32,000 miles. It had very little. I change my oil every 8,000 miles (I have videos of that to) and I never have to add any oil. I use what Ford say use which is Motorcraft 5w30 synthetic-blend and Mo-craft filter.
I dont think venting the crank case into the intake was the best idea that ford ever had but if you want ill save up what comes out of my catch can so you can pour it in your intake.
Here is what your perspective is lacking: Ford, and all other manufacturers don't care about longevity so long as it lasts through the warranty period. The axiomatic flaw in your reasoning is that the manufacturers care about you keeping the vehicle to 100k miles. Statistically very few people do that today, so everything is 'lifetime fluids" such as the transmission. This is bravo sierra. Meanwhile, well-meaning folk don't realize that the manufacturer will be aware of a problem, but the engineers are told NOT to fix it because it is not worth the expense to the company. It is about the bottom line in business. Where they spent the money was in making a 3.5 v6 designed to live in a race car at 600 hp, cutting that by ~40% and leaving it in a truck. So I will happily take the other advances so that I can have a 400hp truck that is daily reliable for decades with my alterations. My transmission will still work at 200k miles where yours would not if you leave the 'lifetime' fluid in it. Grandpa taught me to take care of my stuff and it last longer. Turns out that wisdom still applies today.
Thanks for the video! What mileage did you install your catch can? Have you had any other issues? I’m looking at a 2011 eco boost with 100,000. I’m just scared because this was the first year for the turbo, if it was the 5.0, I wouldn’t think twice about the mileage, but just don’t want to dump my money into a turbocharged truck & regret it. Any thoughts?
This is far too late for your use, but might help someone else. It all comes down to how it was maintained for me. I just bought a 175k expedition with a 5.4 for a daily driver/family hauler. If it has been well maintained, it should be cheaper to own in the long term than a new truck. I make good money and can't afford a new truck because it is starting to look like a mortgage payment.
Does this also fix hesitation at low take-off speeds? I have a 2015 Ford Transport with a 3.5 turbo eco boost and I have a rough idle shudder mainly when cold but it has an intermittent shudder when at slow take-off speeds as well usually when under 20 MPH. I have replaced the MAP sensor (these do not have MAF) I have replaced the plugs as well. Still, the issue is there I have not cleaned the other 2 sensors as you did. SO this is my question. Thank you in advance
i have been wanting to do a catch can on my f150, but the kits online dont have the check valves like yours, except the company that wants 500.00. not willing to pay that. can you tell me where I can purchase them and any part numbers I may need. By the way thanks for the great video.
The check valves I found were on ebay. This link should be similar to what I bought. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575562230&toolid=10001&campid=5338641496&customid=Nickelndiminit+check+valve&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F5pcs-16mm-5-8-Fuel-Non-Return-One-Way-Check-Valve-Petrol-Diesel-Aluminium-Alloy%2F263373857027%3Fhash%3Ditem3d524e2103%3Ag%3ADLsAAOSwr81UMjmo
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
Check out the buildup on the intake valves for these ecoboost motors: ruclips.net/video/8gMr3W8L82Y/видео.html
Did you delete the crankcase pressure sensor with a tune ? I have a 2015 3.5 expedition with that p04db after a k&n intake!!😔
Thank you for providing this detailed content including how to clean the sensors properly.
After watching this I checked all my sensors and there was oil build up on the sensors. Cleaned them off and my shuddering went right away. More responsive and added MPG also. Thank you for the solution.
Map sensor cleaning finally solved my heavy bucking issue, not shuddering, bucking, thanks for helpful info
This video is 2yrs old.. but the info is still relevant.. thanks so much !
Isnt it sad?
Nice. I just bought a 2014 F-150 ecoboost about two weeks ago. I am trying to learn everything about these engines as much as I can. Thank for your video.
Thanks, appreciate the video availability! I just got my 2016 F150 XLT with the 3.5L Ecoboost, and it's running fine, but I'd like to learn as much as I can on this particular engine, and try to keep it running smoothly as well as with longevity! Thankfully, the previous owner took the truck to the same Ford dealership that it was bought at, for it's services, so I had them print off all the past services from new (quite a bundle). The truck already has 125K, but runs smooth, so I'm thankful for these suggestions on cleaning these sensors! I've also ordered two catch-can's and one way valves, which I'll install in the next week or two. Thanks also for the tip on spark plugs, as I'll try and learn all I can on that as well. I already have some electrical contact cleaner, so I should be good to go! Thanks again, as I live in western Canada, and believe with our humidity, the catch-can addition should be helpful!
Had this issue, cleaned all 3 map sensors.. Worked like a charm. Lowered turbo lag too
Awesome, glad it helped!
Thank you very much my EcoBoost is doing the same thing at 16,000 miles you have been most helpful
great video, i appreciate your candor. I have had mine for 3 years and I am starting to tinker with it and look for tips and tricks.
Thanks for the video man! Coming from building turbo cars when I was younger which all ran on speed density, keeping the sensors clean is absolutely key.
Definitely important. The ECU needs to know what is happening.
As a tech with about 30yrs started around 84 full time around 88 cleaning your sensors is something I always did a lot of.Many shops used to just install new sensors but I always thought it wasn’t fair ,not that I thought they were trying to rip anyone off I just think it was a common practice due to fault codes,dealer recommended repairs etc..many cars over the yrs have had issues with the PCV systems with oil build up, ford used to have a filter in the back of the intakes that would plug up..anyway nice tip to help out the DIY ;) ..
I like the catch can and check valve modification!
Love the video! But man I feel like an idiot, I do a oil change and couldn’t be prouder👍 to me Mechanics and Engineers are like tribesmen viewed doctors, I’m amazed!!! You’d be like the ultimate neighbor for a Ecoboost owner, any houses near you for sale? Awesome calm video, I’d take a tooth brush to the sensor and ruin it, cause I’m a salesman, meaning I have absolutely no skills at all.
For all the catch can haters out there... this is why you run a catch can on your dirty side... it keeps all of this from happening. Good info here but we should really talk about the cause. Not to mention how oily your intercooler and other components are.
Thank you for making this video
I cleaned today and it's work good and smooth %90 😊🎉
catch can ftw
and clean all your sensors this worked in my 2011 !!!!
Catch cans are definitely needed. I will be switching to the one linked in the description.
Did it. Solved my problem. Thanks.
Awesome, glad it helped.
Great Video!
Thank you for the knowledge and information you have given out.
Dude spraying the cleaner like he had to borrow the $10 for it lol
Haha, that is why the channel isn't called ballintrucktime.
At the shop guys spray that shit like it’s free
I am going to clean these sensors in the morning. Thanks for the video!
I hope it worked for you.
Did it work?
Thank you for this video, I thought something bad was going on with my truck
lots of haters on these motors, but this is an easy solution
I like that check valve setup very smart
Hey thanks for taking the time to make the video. I had cleaned the one right near the air filter but had no idea of the other two sensors. Guess what I'm going to do next? On another note I removed the entire bed on my truck tar/painted frame and used bed liner spray under my bed. So spraying sensors seems like a vacation had to purchase new bolts and clips for bed. I don't recommend anyone do this unless they know what they are doing. Took a few days...I should have shot a video but did take pictures! Also hate the way the hitch is installed between the c clips and cheesy plastic clips yuk. Thanks again...
This is awesome information. I plan to clean my sensor today!!! Thank you for sharing.
Glad it helped
Thank you so much this worked great 😃
Great video!
Man I thank you very much this video is awesome and very helpful. Much appreciated 🙏
I just bought new plugs but I’ll try this first.
Have you tried CRC spray into your intake... yo thanks for making the video that's good information
The MAP sensor lives in oil and crankcase fumes.. youd have to clean it every oil change if it was that big of a deal 🤔🤔 as long as it doesnt thickly coat the sensing strip inside you'll be fine, hence the cage surrounding it
MAF sensors are prone to new air filter particles & other light or heavy road debree protruding past the filter, smacking the bimetallic strip.. so cleaning your MAF or MAP is more of a last ditch attempt to hope it actually work after all else has failed.. so yea it doesnt hurt to clean it.
Heres a Tip, if you lightly tap the maf sensor at idle, and the hesitation temporarily goes away, its a defective MAF.. no need to check 12V power & 5V signal and/or 2k to 7k Hertz @ idle etc etc etc, depending on design. 👍
Also, all the DIY/non-mechanically inclined watching this, be verrryyy careful with your MAF, as 60% of cars now also have the IAT sensor fused into the same sensor, just in a different part of it, so make sure u actually KNOW which 1 your cleaning, and DO NOT poke it with a screw driver to try and clean hard gunk off of it. Youve been warned :)
Also the 'fix' was reported as drilling a weep hole in your intercooler as to let the condensation drain out and not be sucked in the intake, diluting your A/F ratio, hence misfire. BUT Fords TSB states to DITCH that approach, and actually just REMOVE your 2 Air deflectors 1 at the top of the intercooler and 1 at the bottom, THEN Reflash your PCM.PROBLEM SOLVED. But by all means throw the $$ at the parts guy first, plugs, wires, you name it ^^. I think your random hope/approach is much more cost friendly to the viewer, so you can atleast get a thumbs up for that.
Guess away my friends!
This is valid when cars use a maf actually as a maf. These trucks have one but only use it as an IAT, not as a maf. So the hesitation is the sluggish MAP response. Those sensors are designed to live in an air environment not an oil bath as other commenters are suggesting.
thanks for this video mine was doing the same thing changed coil boots top and bottum changed plugs and gaped them at .0028 I think it was,and presto no more rough idle I am still how ever going to take out my sensors like you did and give them a good once over.Thanks a ton!
Yes, I highly recommend the 28 thousandths gap on good NGK plugs, clean the sensors periodically and install a catch can. Then get a 91 octane tune and thank me later. I have been running trouble free tuned for ~50k miles. Catch cans are definitely needed. I will be switching to the one linked in the description.
@@nickelndiminit5136 what link??
Thank You for this great video
Nice work, thanks for the info!
Catch can on the passenger pvc side is a must
Do you need a catch can on the newer ecoboost engines with port and direct injection?
I've had my 2012 F150 EB for a year now and it has always had this problem. After my local mechanic cleared some codes that it has had since I bought it (from a FORD dealership), he started it up for me and I asked him if he noticed the misfire. He told me that it did not trip any codes for a misfire but could he could feel it. Since he was only getting my truck running for me because of all the codes prevented it from running, I didn't have him address the issue. I will do this in the very near future and upgrade the ignition. Thank you for the information.
Hopefully this info helped. Dirty sensors in these will cause intermittent behaviors.
I did a catch can on my 2018 f150 2.7 ecoboost. It does catch about a full can ever oil change. So that would be a lot of oil over time so I could see why that would be a problem
Yup, this is exactly what the issue is. Better to not have to clean it off of valves and things later.
Mine did this with the plugs once I did that it was running like a kitten again.... I been reading and it's sounds like you should change them once everyone 70k.
I'll keep your tips in mind too thanks man!
Chemical engineer? Every youtuber is an engineer of whatever the subject is. Those sensors were designed to handle that environment.
The difference is some of us hold multiple degrees, while others may not. Bottom line is sensors get dirty and slow response time. If a video about film buildup slowing the thermal response times as a function of thermodynamic laws is helpful, I can do that. :)
You could use MAF sensor cleaner also.
Yes, this would work. Honestly any solvent would do fine to get the film off. Catch cans are definitely needed. I will be switching to the one linked in the description.
Caught can, worked for me..
Lol my dad took his truck to the mechanic and they told him that the shuddering was his carrier bearing... WHILE THE CAR WAS PARKED! Pretty sure you have to drive the car to feel a bad carrier bearing. Goin to try this on his truck when I get home today..
Hey guys -great videos here and I'm taking it all in after buying what looks to be a new 2017 Expedition! I want to follow along with the necessary modifications and maintenance to keep her in tip top shape. It appears to have lived in a garage as everything is minty clean, in and out. It has 75K on the clock and I'd like to get caught up with any work that you guys would recommend. Please give me a short list of "must do" items and I'll report back now and again on my progress. The reason I'm here is because I noticed the rpms at idle acting exactly as yours were...
I would do the gapped down plugs like I have linked in the description, but with a 28 thousandths gap, install a catch can. I am about to buy the catch can I have linked in the description, but you should be able to find one for the expedition on amazon like it for the 17. Then there will be some more videos coming where I take off the throttle body and check the backside of my valves with a camera and I will either prove or disprove the cleaning power of methanol injection...lots of info to come. Also, methanol means I can have more boost. Stay tuned. ;)
I'm having the idle issue -it hunts around from 550-ish to 600-ish, very slight but it's def there I can feel it. I'm wondering why yours at vid beginning is hunting around 1K, but at the end of your vid is more like mine. I can still see it fluctuate -mine looks the same as yours (at the end). Did the (3) sensor cleaning get you the smoother idle?
That’s what mine is doing I will get some cleaner and try that.thanks for the information
Is there a recommended time to have the battery disconnected?
Great video.
It reset the computer to read with clean sensors instead of old data. So before you startup again for accurate stats and whatnot
Great video, you showed the one way valves on either side of the banks, but where or how are you getting fresh air supply. That i didnt see. Thanks in advance
Getting a fault code P0400 Exhaust Gas Res. Car smells like gas and sputters like crazy. 2013 F-150 exoboost absolutely Undrivable.
My engine started to shutter occasionally on idle and the check engine light came on. I'll definitely wanna clean the sensors. Thanks for the information.
Throttle body gets gunked up easily. Check it for sludge.
Yes, this should help the idle definitely. The other reply is valid also. I haven't cleaned my throttle body yet.
I do want to thank you for the video though. It just reaffirms my distaste in Ford.
Gay
I found if I run E10 ethanol fuel it makes my '15 run rough but if I run premium is smooths right out.
I would have loved to hear the rough idle. Was there a ticking?
Thanks for the vid
I have a 2018 F150 with the 3.5l and am getting the shudder with less than 3k miles on engine. Guess ill be taking it in for the safety belt recall and to address the rough idle.
Trxextrxex did they address this at the dealership?
Thank you so much for this helpful video. Have you come across the issue of losing complete power? I was on the on ramp and lost complete power, luckily there was light traffic and I was able to pull to the side. Turn off the truck and drove home safely. Took it to the dealer and wasn't help. Searched online and saw that folks experienced as a turbo issue
Again thank you for the video.
Novakane_SC i was having this prob and especially at acceleration on highway or up a hill. Plugs changed and still misfired into limp mode. Limp mode is a safety feature that shuts you down completely. I drilled a tiny 1/16th inch weep hole on bottom of intercooler. A ton of fluid drained out and completely solved my problem 100%
Tbc could be the issue known problem
If that is the case, it is possible that a vent line is plugged from the crank case, which causes pressure buildup is a possibility. That or a significant buildup of oil can cause that. The key to that problem is that crank case pressure builds up and causes too much resistance and the engine is forced to stop rotating. Cleaning the throttle body is also rumored to help, thought I haven't done that yet in 80k miles.
That big sensor is a maf sensor, mass air flow sensor.
Yes it is, but it isn't used as a maf, and only 2011 had them. He was correct on the way the system works.
@@Stickerslapper Are you sure? He also stated it had 3 map sensors, no mention of one maf sensor.
That is correct, but keep in mind these trucks do NOT use the maf as a maf, they are only used for IAT measurements. The other two are MAP sensors. I misspoke in the video. Its not worth re-editing to correct.
Thanks for the great video. Where did you get the check valves please? Thanks again.
Thank you for the video. I learned a lot from it. You also mentioned another common problem of ecoboost which build up of carbon on the back of the valves and hence you installed the catch can. Is there a good method to clean those valves other than taking the engine apart?
You should move that check valve on the dirty side of your PcV system closer to the manifold. Save the seals in your catch can...
Yes, that system is going to be revised soon.
Very informative! Thank you .
Just purchased a 2015 F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost and want to keep it running good without a bunch of crazy, and very expensive upgrades or tuning.
In regards to the check valves you installed, I'm assuming you can check the direction of flow prior to installing or they have a direction printed on them?
And where did you get them?
Thanks again because I hate 120.00 dollar an hour shop rates!! And the added 5% added to your repair bill so parts changers get paid to clean their tools and put them away.
It's the spark plugs it's always the spark plugs check the gap
One thing I don’t understand about the one way check valve, Fords original hose before catch can did not have a check valve what so ever, it’s just a hose with fancy ends that allows vent to happen. Why would that be any different with a catch can? Seems to me people are over thinking the catch can. Thoughts?
The catch cans are a needed factor on these trucks, cars and suvs. Ford has to have the engine reingest these vapors for the sake of emissions. We as customers can address a known issue like this with catch cans. My specific catch cans were less effective before the check valves. The new system I will install with get a video to follow this topic. I am also working right now on a mythbuster video for methanol injection cleaning the backs of the valves...so I have a lot more videos to do about this topic. Stay tuned.
Walnut blast the valves will clear it up completely
Great video. Thanks. My truck even turned off on me while idling yesterday. I got a diagnostic message when I connected it at the auto part store of P1450, and another video said it was the purge valve. Would this fix it or do you think they are unrelated. Nevertheless, I’ll clean the sensors, too. I got 67k miles on it, and I’m sure they are not doing too well. Thanks again.
That specific code is a failure of the purge solenoid for the high pressure fuel system, which should be located under the engine cover or on the drivers side near the top of the motor. The auto parts store should have them or be able to get the gas purge solenoid for you. The sensor cleaning should help idle after the purge valve is replaced.
NickelNDiminIt thank you for the response. I’ll do both, then. You got yourself a new sub. I plan on keeping my truck for a while, and any channel that helps me with this is greatly appreciated.
this worked perfectly on 2013 3.5 EB f150. Started shuddering/rough idle right after deal did recall update. This fix cleared it right up. only question is, what do I do with this new set of spark plugs? Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad it helped. The plugs I use with the gap info are now linked in the description. 28 thousandths gap has worked great for me on a 91 tune for about 50k miles.
Hey, how’s the going.
Just purchased Lincoln mkt 2019, 3.5l eco boost turbo with similar problems.
Engine starts but won’t accelerate with rough idle.
New York is the location and just wanted to know if we can hire you to resolve the issues.
Pls respond ASAP.
Thanks
Thank you! This was very informative. :)
Wait...
That's a v6 turbo. Right?
On other catch-can installation videos, people suggest placing a check valve on the tube connecting to the throttle intake, with the arrow pointing towards it, not to the other tube exiting the crankcase top, like you've done.
Can you please advise us, as to whether or not we should then install check valves on BOTH tubes.
Presumably, arrow pointing out from the crankcase, and arrow pointing in, at the intake.
Or what?
Please advise.
If your catch can system was working correctly, why would you be getting oil in the intake? A proper catch can system should prevent any oil from getting into the intake tube.
I think he's attributing the check valves to "fixing" his catch can system. Not bashing him. I'm learning and what he said came off to me as this.
The catch can was put on after about 50k miles.
My mpg display went from 20 mpg down to 7 mpg. Are the levels on the mpg display telling us something? How do you read them. What are the telling us? Thanks for the video
love the video i checked the sensors on my f250 2012 i only found the sensor by the air filter...could someone help me out where the rest are please, if there are any more.
Shouldn't the check valves be after the catch cans so you never pressurize your catch can?
this worked perfectly on 2013 3.5 EB f150. Started shuddering/rough idle right after deal did recall update. This fix cleared it right up. only question is, what do I do with this new set of spark plugs? Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!
Keep them until its time to change them
Glad this helped. I would say hold onto the plugs like suggested below.
I am shopping for F150's but I just can't bring myself to buy a $50000 truck, only to have to re-engineer it myself. I love the way the f150 rides and drives, but I've seen way too many 'fix' videos for them. Seems like every brand in the same. THey build crap, and sell it for a bazillion dollars, and there is nothing we can do about it. Harumph. Ef it. Thinking the best thing to do is not buying anything at all.
the thing is not re engineering them its the maintenance !!!!! keep your sensors clean!!! and this is a turbo motor you must install a catch can to keep the blow by or back out of the engine also all the crying is from folks who dont know whats going on firts step is know your TRUCK!!!!!! and remember TRUCKS cant fix their self!
You can buy a F150 with the COYOTE engine, in my personal opinion its more powerful and more dependable
Try looking also at problems with the eco-diesel dodge and jeep products, or any of the turbocharged direct injection motors. These aren't going away, so your options are high mileage less efficient vehicles or newer vehicles with newer maintenance problems. To be clear for all those looking, the dealers and manufacturers couldn't care less about your maintenance concerns so long as you buy from them. Picking a vehicle with known solutions already available from front-runners like me means less headache when things break. Otherwise you will be at the mercy of the dealers.
How would out contaminate them if they're in front of any oil. ? Only one is effected.
The first one gets dirty from fine particles that get past the air filter these trucks are also known for condensation and oil that from the turbos to collect in the intercooler and does make it's way up to the throttle body to affect the second map sensor
6:54 The larger block on the right, seems like it doesn't do much cleaning it. It's just a resistor.
The other two, MAF sensors, probably are much more sensitive to the cleaning, and probably the reason why the vehicle was idling rough.
Large one is mass air flow . Very important
The first sensor is a maf, the other two are map sensors. I misspoke there. But the computers use the maf signal as an IAT sensor rather than a maf. They are sensitive to buildup.
I will try this when the weather warms a bit..I have a cylinder 2 code came up when I punched the gas pedal a bit.. engine light did fast flash for a minute or so at highway speed then the light went out and everything went back to normal..Changed the plug and coil pack.. any other ideas besides this sensor cleaning? Thanks in advance.
My Ford F150 2016 ecoboost stumbles / shudders and engine misses at idling and when I press brake pedal it increases. My mechanic said it’s manufacturing fault which I don’t believe. Please advise.
Unless I misunderstood the direction of the check valve on the driver side, I think you put it on backwards. The driver side valve cover is where clean air enters, goes through the engine crankcase and exits at the PCV then into the intake. So really the check valve on the driver side is unnecessary.
The driver side tube on my truck was always the dirtiest and most oil filled, whether it should be or not. Ideally there should be a fresh air entry, but I haven't had any issues so far. I think these 3.5s have far more blow by than most folks would acknowledge. I am going to be changing to the catch can system in the description soon.
Except the rectangular sensor is actually in fact an MAF!, That isn't a MAP sensor
Is this working for the newer models as well? I have a 2017 expedition that is doing it with 45K miles on it. Thanks for the video!
I had a shudder issue and it was a loose spark plug connector.
Have you changed to the catch can yet, if so did you do a video on it? By the way I have almost 200k on my truck and the only thing I have changed is my oil. I just changed all my fluids this week. No other major or minor issues. I personally have had more problems with Chevy and Dodge's never again for me.
You do realize that those check valves are built into the pcv system. So your just adding 2 more. Otherwise in factory condition itd pressurize the crankcase
There is what looks like a check valve in the factory system on the passenger side, but it is not a check valve because it does not seal against pressurization. It is just a restrictor really and not a real check valve. So I am aware of the intended function.
I didn’t catch where you purchased the check valves? Could you give a link or PN? Thx!
Caughtcan on mine worked.. no need to do anything else..
My eco boost with 145k miles makes a weird noise when at idle but I just drive it around and nothing happenes for 4 months now
Makes sense thanks
I guess carb/throttle body cleaner wouldn’t be good for this either?
Awesome. Thanks for the video. Do you have a video for your catch can install?? Thanks.
Look up fordtechmakuloco. He has one. Great kit
Joshua Lester 👍🏼
How well do the catch cans work in the winter, freezing temps?
correct me if I am wrong but a catch can is of a lot of help to any direct injected motor. The reason it is more helpful to a turbo is that you get a lot more blow back?
Jon Jon correct the 2011-2017 ecoboosts have misfire issues because the blow by starts collecting in the intercooler then begins coating the spark plugs ruining them and the coil packs
Jon Jon Diesel engines are direct injection and no one complain about caked up intake valves. You guys are worried about nothing.
if you use the right oil there is nothing to worry about direct injection motors burn way hotter than non turbos ....regular oil will burn and coke up on the back side of the valve steams and cause engine failure,I run a full synthetic oil they are good about not causing this trouble as they have a higher heat threshold.@@blackericdenice
@@blackericdenice apples to oranges because it's diesel.
The newer F-150 Ecoboost models now have dual injection.
@@oldgraindesigns8065 And my 2016 F165 has 48k miles and run fine.
The louvres inside the cold air return tubes . Did you take those out or left them in ?
If that engine needed a catch can. Ford would have put one on there. You are a follower. Someone created a problem that doesn’t exist. You just had to run outside and install the same thing on your truck.
Ford is aware of the the oil issue. They do not install them from the factory due to extra service.
@@craigoverlease1150 I have a 2016 F150 2.7 I bought brand new. It now has 42,000 miles and I did a blow-by test video at about 32,000 miles. It had very little. I change my oil every 8,000 miles (I have videos of that to) and I never have to add any oil. I use what Ford say use which is Motorcraft 5w30 synthetic-blend and Mo-craft filter.
I dont think venting the crank case into the intake was the best idea that ford ever had but if you want ill save up what comes out of my catch can so you can pour it in your intake.
Don Poitras lol you literally every manufacturer vents in back into the intake. They are required to.. but blame ford
Here is what your perspective is lacking: Ford, and all other manufacturers don't care about longevity so long as it lasts through the warranty period. The axiomatic flaw in your reasoning is that the manufacturers care about you keeping the vehicle to 100k miles. Statistically very few people do that today, so everything is 'lifetime fluids" such as the transmission. This is bravo sierra. Meanwhile, well-meaning folk don't realize that the manufacturer will be aware of a problem, but the engineers are told NOT to fix it because it is not worth the expense to the company. It is about the bottom line in business. Where they spent the money was in making a 3.5 v6 designed to live in a race car at 600 hp, cutting that by ~40% and leaving it in a truck. So I will happily take the other advances so that I can have a 400hp truck that is daily reliable for decades with my alterations. My transmission will still work at 200k miles where yours would not if you leave the 'lifetime' fluid in it. Grandpa taught me to take care of my stuff and it last longer. Turns out that wisdom still applies today.
Thanks for the video! What mileage did you install your catch can? Have you had any other issues? I’m looking at a 2011 eco boost with 100,000. I’m just scared because this was the first year for the turbo, if it was the 5.0, I wouldn’t think twice about the mileage, but just don’t want to dump my money into a turbocharged truck & regret it. Any thoughts?
Did you get it? I got an 11 with 100k last year.
This is far too late for your use, but might help someone else. It all comes down to how it was maintained for me. I just bought a 175k expedition with a 5.4 for a daily driver/family hauler. If it has been well maintained, it should be cheaper to own in the long term than a new truck. I make good money and can't afford a new truck because it is starting to look like a mortgage payment.
Does this also fix hesitation at low take-off speeds? I have a 2015 Ford Transport with a 3.5 turbo eco boost and I have a rough idle shudder mainly when cold but it has an intermittent shudder when at slow take-off speeds as well usually when under 20 MPH. I have replaced the MAP sensor (these do not have MAF) I have replaced the plugs as well. Still, the issue is there I have not cleaned the other 2 sensors as you did. SO this is my question. Thank you in advance
Did you clean the sensors?
I don't like shops, they just rip you off. Thank you
Can I use, CRC QD electronic cleaner?
i have been wanting to do a catch can on my f150, but the kits online dont have the check valves like yours, except the company that wants 500.00. not willing to pay that. can you tell me where I can purchase them and any part numbers I may need. By the way thanks for the great video.
The check valves I found were on ebay. This link should be similar to what I bought. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575562230&toolid=10001&campid=5338641496&customid=Nickelndiminit+check+valve&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F5pcs-16mm-5-8-Fuel-Non-Return-One-Way-Check-Valve-Petrol-Diesel-Aluminium-Alloy%2F263373857027%3Fhash%3Ditem3d524e2103%3Ag%3ADLsAAOSwr81UMjmo
How come I own two Ecoboost cars, a 13 SHO, and a 16 Expedition, and other than oil changes, there are problems?