I know you will be very happy when the shop is finished. I, for one, will be sad that this series will come to an end. I have enjoyed this so much. You are an inspiration to all that if you put your mind into it, you can accomplish anything!
Run all your electrical- you won't be able to connect to a panel, but you won't be violating anything as it will all be inspected anyhow. Further, most city redlines will be panel related- interior outlets and lighting are not going to get flagged- and if they were to get flagged, they are easily changed/modified.
I’m a Architect. Everyone is correct soffits vents on a sealed roof are not required. However since you have them, you should “close off” the cavity between your steel with form/compression fit cut pieces of rigid foam insulation. Those pieces should be inline with your exterior wall sheathing. That will give you a stopper to spray the foam against. It will also save you money since there is no reason to fill the overhangs with foam. That will leave you with a uninsulated soffit/overhang cavity, since you already cut the vents in, just leave them they will just vent that soffit cavity
Props to you for doing a lot of the work yourself. I built my personal home and shop completely by myself, and I don’t think people understand how much work is involved.
Vents are only used on the soffit when there is free air space between the ceiling and the roof deck to allow air to flow from the eave vents to the ridge vent. If you are spray foaming the bottom of the roof deck, the soffit vents won't have a purpose.
I just got my permits signed off on my 1400 sq ft building and did my permits the same way. I filed for my electrical permit after my bldg permit but in the meantime I wired the entire place the way I submitted it and hoped for the best. I made sure to follow code and ask my buddies that are electricians on what the main items needed to pass. The shop is looking great and like you I had no idea how hard it is to build a building almost by myself. Keep it up.
No, no vents. The closed and open cell foam is sprayed over a completely sealed structure for max performance. You should seal every opening first and then do spray foam. In your area I would go with open cell but closed cell strengthens the structure up to 400% according to testing at University of Florida
Only use spray foam if you have a controlled humidified space. Humidity is what will cause rot. It will seep through the closed cell on the underside of the sheeting.
2 things i noticed. vents will hit bricks.( you didnt account for brick freeze when cutting for vents) the side soffit extends out to meet eve and a lamb leg is to cap that off. (you did front first then sides and put the cap at building edge rather than facia edge) just my 2 cents. I hope it all works out for you!
You don't need to vent that type of building. You vent when you have a sealed attic that is separate from the building, because that sealed area gets hot and the air expands.
True. Soffit vents are supposed to take air up and through to a ridge vent. If there is something in the way (ex sprayfoam), the vents don’t work. If the building is designed for the foam, then it’s fine and all vents omitted. It’s where somebody does foam after the fact without consideration when problems start to come up.
Technically you can start roughing in all the wiring and boxes without the approved permit, you just can’t get it inspected until the permit is approved, which means you can’t close anything up but you could get started. Unless you think there is a major issue with the design.
Love the progress on the building, you are doing a great job. You mentioned lights around the building, I would also suggest security/surveillance cameras on all corners of the building as well to deter those you feel entitled to your stuff, cameras are a great deterrent, 8 of them should cover every angle, and entrances and I'd put a couple of them inside the shop as well. Invest in good ones, with a DVR, not off amazon. Just my two cents.
I was sitting here watching the video and hollering at the same time,,,,,PULL WIRE! LOL. Adding a pull wire as you put up each of soffit would make it so much easier to pull the electrical wire later.
Shoot the link for the glasses. Also I have some questions about the trail boss. I have a 2021 stock. Next move muffler and tires recommendation. Fully stock
You need an entry for the air and an exhaust for the air.So the sofits are your entry point for your air.Your soft defense on the roof are your exhaust?Yes you do need them
vent the soffits because they won't be insulated but then spray over the roof vents because it will be. If you don't vent the soffits you'll get dry rot on that portion of the roof panels
Nice work. I know you don't have your electrical permit yet. But I would have roughed in the electrical for the sofet lights. Easier when the sofet was open. When I remodeled my houses. I pulled my permits, with provided plans prepared by me. When I did my work, I made many changes and added a number of things. Inspector did not care, as long as I did it right.
with your design you want to do a full incapsulated design no venting, your steel purlins block the air paths. to do a vented space you would need 1" of space below your rood deck but above the insulation from the eave to the ridge throughout the entire roof.
If I’m ever closing off a ceiling I’ll at least put in baffles to keep insulation directly off the sheathing so that there is always the option to move air from the soffit to the gable vent. But your metal rafters run parallel to the soffit, not perpendicular, so there would not be continuous airflow from the soffit to the gable vent anyway. Unless you ran wood stringers across the metal up the slope, and sheathed to that, then there would be an air gap to use for this purpose.
1. The square inches of the current roof vents are inadequate for that roof size. 2. Use ventilated soffit around entire perimeter (the ones with holes already in them). 3. should have ran any electrical wires prior to doing the soffits. 4. Don't spray foam the roof.
Looks great, but you should have installed a brick molding first...you're going to have to go back and add some trim for the brick to tuck behind when they meet up with the soffits. Typically, the molding is 4.25" out from the surface of your wall. The soffits on the side of your building are going to get much smaller when the brick are laid. Sweet barn though, look forward to all the interior finishes and seeing which direction you go.
You don't really have an attic, so ventilation I would think is only needed to prevent moisture build-up/mold. I suppose if you put in those vent channels all the way up to the ridge vent you would be covered for that, and could safely sprayfoam over those and install a wallboard ceiling.
Closed cell spray foam basically acts as a vapor barrier that air cannot travel through. Even if you used open cell spray foam, you are not going to get much air movement through it. Unless you leave a gap between the foam and whatever you finish the ceiling with, there is no point in adding vents.
If it’s so hot out there that day you probably don’t need to add a gap between panels because when it gets cold the gaps can grow a lot bigger than planned
If you're spray foaming directly to the underside of the roof deck down to/ including your walls then no you don't need any venting. Venting it for unconditioned attics that let outside air in and out. You're building will be a full conditioned space meaning the entire interior volumn is cut off from outside air. A good idea but not mandatory is to use closed cell foam. Its more expensive than open cell but ipen cell can soak up moisture but closed cell cant. A cost effective option is to shoot i think its an inch of closed cell for moisture barrier and then get the rest of your R value with open cell to save a little money.
Seal everything. Spray foam the entire roof surface. No vents unless you are going to build a ceiling or loft area that you will insulate. Don’t need to vent otherwise.
You should have left 4 inches opening from the wall to the soffit. This way you can run the brick work behind the soffit panels instead of cutting each brick to but tight against the soffit panels.
Work looks good but I expect you might run into some issues when it comes time for brick since normally soffit would be done after brick is in place. 1) You will either need to angle cut all your uppermost bricks to match your soffit angle, or you will need to run a tall 1x6 or or 1x8 frieze board to cover the brick gaps. 2) Vents were placed too far inward and will interfere with brick. They also shouldn't be needed if you're spray foaming the inside of the roof decking as you will have a "hot roof" instead of a vented roof. 3) Last thing is the triangle end caps of your eave soffit should also be out 5" or whatever so they are flush with the brick face on the gable ends. I'm not an expert and not trying to criticize, these are just things I saw that you might want to think about now before you are left to deal with them come brick time.
Same exact thing happened on my metal building, hired 3 guys paid $5000 to erect the building and I’ve got waves on my facia boards the building is not as square as my standards would be. If I had the time I would have done it myself, but who has that? 😅
Chad, an unrelated question to your build, but how profitable is it to make videos here in YT? Since you busted through 200k subscribers I’m super curious on what the payout is. Is it per view? Per subscriber? Either way, congrats. I’m always looking forward to the update on your truck and/or the shop update. Now looking forward to seeing what comes from the Kings of Dirt on your truck.
Get you another A frame ladder or two and a 20ft two by twelve board and make you a scaffold . Less climbing up and down on a ladder especially when you start your siding.
Yeah I’m building a pool house and it’s been a game charger. Just make sure not to leave the board out in the weather or it can warp. Then it makes it sketchy walking on it.
It's going to be pretty hard for the inspector to see the wire for the exterior lighting that will be hidden in the soffits. Problem, probably, if you use 120v lights. Maybe not, if you use low voltage/solar powered lights. Since the metal z-roof girders/perlins run perpendicular the the normal airflow of a vented roof, a vented roof assembly is not easily accomplished in your situation. You do not have a space between roof and celing that needs to be vented. When close cell spray foam is used for roof insulation applied diretly to the sheathing, ventilation is not required. This is covered clearly in code. However, IMO, it's a good idea to vent the soffits themselves, but only if the soffits are air sealed from the interior space. I would add one vent each side up high, near the peak of the gables. You could add fans with dampers to those roof vents, just for those times you want ventilation of the interior space (like vehicle exhaust extraction)
I hate to be that guy but brick will need a brick box cornice or soffit for the masons to lay up and inside of. Or you can also in your case now that its done youll have to shoot a 2x6 to the bottom of the soffit lay the brick up to that and then you have to nail a trim pice to the 2x6 to cover the brick gap.
Never understood why people birdbox their soffit to make them level in the eaves, just put your soffits in flush with the tails to match the pitch, imo it looks better than the pitch change compared to the gable ends.
No ventilation needed. Spray 1” of closed cell, which will ensure building is watertight, then 4”-5” of open cell on top of that. Are you going to utilize a mini split AC on your shop?
Idk if anyone’s mentioned it, but all of your cut ends on the LP should have been painted. When you cut through the chips it exposes raw untreated wood and will swell over time. Also all your finish nails need to be touched up too. Just some friendly advise from a certified LP installer!
I know I’m going to sound like I’m late to the game but… my man why did you nail up the soffit material? You should have screwed it up so incase you had to get back in there one day to run more wire.. I’m a huge fan of being able to undo your finishing work to help with future ideas… Don’t close yourself in with permanent options.
Disclaimer I work in logistics aka a CDL rider, but this is my input * deleted bc I was wrong * acording to the people who know things you dont need vents with how this building was made
I don’t recommend drilling through the metal beams for wiring, or anything else for that matter. Those beams are engineered to handle the weight of the roof and building. Drilling through them can jeopardize the integrity of the beam. Shop is coming along great man
![MY SKETCHY PLANS WERE APPROVED BY THE CITY ⚡️ - [POWERING UP]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kio0ew6xT5A/mqdefault.jpg)
![MY SKETCHY PLANS WERE APPROVED BY THE CITY ⚡️ - [POWERING UP]](/img/tr.png)
The "backing up the truck to throw all the lumber out" never gets old. Love it!
I know you will be very happy when the shop is finished. I, for one, will be sad that this series will come to an end. I have enjoyed this so much. You are an inspiration to all that if you put your mind into it, you can accomplish anything!
There will be more over-ambitious projects in the near future 😅
Run all your electrical- you won't be able to connect to a panel, but you won't be violating anything as it will all be inspected anyhow. Further, most city redlines will be panel related- interior outlets and lighting are not going to get flagged- and if they were to get flagged, they are easily changed/modified.
I’m a Architect. Everyone is correct soffits vents on a sealed roof are not required. However since you have them, you should “close off” the cavity between your steel with form/compression fit cut pieces of rigid foam insulation. Those pieces should be inline with your exterior wall sheathing. That will give you a stopper to spray the foam against. It will also save you money since there is no reason to fill the overhangs with foam. That will leave you with a uninsulated soffit/overhang cavity, since you already cut the vents in, just leave them they will just vent that soffit cavity
Thank you! Super helpful 👍🏽
Props to you for doing a lot of the work yourself. I built my personal home and shop completely by myself, and I don’t think people understand how much work is involved.
Been following since before the move to Texas and thoroughly enjoy watching the journey...Thx.
You don't need vent. but I would have put screen on them to keep bugs out.
I sure do admire your dedication and hustle! Also, I hope your family appreciates your all that you do. Keep up the great content!
🤙🏽🤙🏽
200,000 Subs! Let's goooooooo! Congrats! 🎉✊️🙌💪
🎉
Insurance companies hate spray foam.
Vents are only used on the soffit when there is free air space between the ceiling and the roof deck to allow air to flow from the eave vents to the ridge vent. If you are spray foaming the bottom of the roof deck, the soffit vents won't have a purpose.
but without those soffit vents, where are the wasps supposed to live?! 😂
I just got my permits signed off on my 1400 sq ft building and did my permits the same way. I filed for my electrical permit after my bldg permit but in the meantime I wired the entire place the way I submitted it and hoped for the best. I made sure to follow code and ask my buddies that are electricians on what the main items needed to pass. The shop is looking great and like you I had no idea how hard it is to build a building almost by myself. Keep it up.
Finally i was waiting for this particular video ❤❤
No, no vents. The closed and open cell foam is sprayed over a completely sealed structure for max performance. You should seal every opening first and then do spray foam. In your area I would go with open cell but closed cell strengthens the structure up to 400% according to testing at University of Florida
Any concern with termites and their attraction to foam?
Only use spray foam if you have a controlled humidified space. Humidity is what will cause rot. It will seep through the closed cell on the underside of the sheeting.
Thank you!
Congrats on 200k subscribers!
You are killing it man, it is looking great!!
Looks awesome so far jealous brother can’t wait to build one
I always find these guys becuse they build stuff then i get intrested in the builds and cant wait for them
It’s looking amazing!
Awesome work brother! I have done a garage myself and it’s fun but a lot of work! You have a castle my friend!
Saturday morning early gang! Was just wondering about an update earlier this week, glad to find one here this morning.
2 things i noticed. vents will hit bricks.( you didnt account for brick freeze when cutting for vents) the side soffit extends out to meet eve and a lamb leg is to cap that off. (you did front first then sides and put the cap at building edge rather than facia edge) just my 2 cents. I hope it all works out for you!
Looking Good!!
You don't need to vent that type of building. You vent when you have a sealed attic that is separate from the building, because that sealed area gets hot and the air expands.
True. Soffit vents are supposed to take air up and through to a ridge vent. If there is something in the way (ex sprayfoam), the vents don’t work. If the building is designed for the foam, then it’s fine and all vents omitted. It’s where somebody does foam after the fact without consideration when problems start to come up.
I was going to say the same thing.
Hot roof
Hey Hey I dont know how you get so much done with the time you have. Your an animal!
I lived in DFW TX for 20 yrs and I do NOT miss that heat.
Aloha from Seattle yeah it's aloha Friday 😊
🤙🏽🤙🏽
Technically you can start roughing in all the wiring and boxes without the approved permit, you just can’t get it inspected until the permit is approved, which means you can’t close anything up but you could get started. Unless you think there is a major issue with the design.
Great to know!
I would run electrical outlet on each end of soffit, future proofing and if you choose to put sec camera
Good idea 🤙🏽
looking amazing. I do think if you put bird boxes on the soffit end it would look better instead of just capping them off.
Looks great🤙🤙
Love the progress on the building, you are doing a great job. You mentioned lights around the building, I would also suggest security/surveillance cameras on all corners of the building as well to deter those you feel entitled to your stuff, cameras are a great deterrent, 8 of them should cover every angle, and entrances and I'd put a couple of them inside the shop as well. Invest in good ones, with a DVR, not off amazon. Just my two cents.
Yes you want soffit vents. For proper cross ventilation
Wow Chad, congrats on the 200K subs! You can sure run all your wiring you just can do any connection to a panel.
I was sitting here watching the video and hollering at the same time,,,,,PULL WIRE! LOL. Adding a pull wire as you put up each of soffit would make it so much easier to pull the electrical wire later.
Nice job. Looking good!
Hell yeah bro... One step closer! I would say you should be fine to run your wiring you just can't connect it until they approve the electrical...
THANK YOU. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Heck yeah buddy!
For the electrical, can you just proceed at risk and hope you won’t have to change anything?
Lonestar Hawaiian construction coming soon!
Why are you running vents? Why aren’t you running your electrical rough-ins first for the lights ???
What self tapping screws were you using? Seemed so easy 👍
Shoot the link for the glasses. Also I have some questions about the trail boss. I have a 2021 stock. Next move muffler and tires recommendation. Fully stock
You need an entry for the air and an exhaust for the air.So the sofits are your entry point for your air.Your soft defense on the roof are your exhaust?Yes you do need them
Thanks!
vent the soffits because they won't be insulated but then spray over the roof vents because it will be. If you don't vent the soffits you'll get dry rot on that portion of the roof panels
I would use Lexel between that gap or big stretch instead of stim to waterproof your shop.
Nice work. I know you don't have your electrical permit yet. But I would have roughed in the electrical for the sofet lights. Easier when the sofet was open.
When I remodeled my houses. I pulled my permits, with provided plans prepared by me. When I did my work, I made many changes and added a number of things. Inspector did not care, as long as I did it right.
Good call. Fortunately the soffit is still pretty easily accessible from the inside. Thanks for watching!
with your design you want to do a full incapsulated design no venting, your steel purlins block the air paths. to do a vented space you would need 1" of space below your rood deck but above the insulation from the eave to the ridge throughout the entire roof.
If I’m ever closing off a ceiling I’ll at least put in baffles to keep insulation directly off the sheathing so that there is always the option to move air from the soffit to the gable vent. But your metal rafters run parallel to the soffit, not perpendicular, so there would not be continuous airflow from the soffit to the gable vent anyway. Unless you ran wood stringers across the metal up the slope, and sheathed to that, then there would be an air gap to use for this purpose.
1. The square inches of the current roof vents are inadequate for that roof size. 2. Use ventilated soffit around entire perimeter (the ones with holes already in them). 3. should have ran any electrical wires prior to doing the soffits. 4. Don't spray foam the roof.
Looks great, but you should have installed a brick molding first...you're going to have to go back and add some trim for the brick to tuck behind when they meet up with the soffits. Typically, the molding is 4.25" out from the surface of your wall. The soffits on the side of your building are going to get much smaller when the brick are laid. Sweet barn though, look forward to all the interior finishes and seeing which direction you go.
How would 18x9 -13mm wheels with 33x12.5 tires look on a truck? Will they stick out a lot?
…it looks amazing btw 👍🏻
You don't really have an attic, so ventilation I would think is only needed to prevent moisture build-up/mold. I suppose if you put in those vent channels all the way up to the ridge vent you would be covered for that, and could safely sprayfoam over those and install a wallboard ceiling.
Closed cell spray foam basically acts as a vapor barrier that air cannot travel through. Even if you used open cell spray foam, you are not going to get much air movement through it. Unless you leave a gap between the foam and whatever you finish the ceiling with, there is no point in adding vents.
If it’s so hot out there that day you probably don’t need to add a gap between panels because when it gets cold the gaps can grow a lot bigger than planned
If you're spray foaming directly to the underside of the roof deck down to/ including your walls then no you don't need any venting. Venting it for unconditioned attics that let outside air in and out. You're building will be a full conditioned space meaning the entire interior volumn is cut off from outside air. A good idea but not mandatory is to use closed cell foam. Its more expensive than open cell but ipen cell can soak up moisture but closed cell cant. A cost effective option is to shoot i think its an inch of closed cell for moisture barrier and then get the rest of your R value with open cell to save a little money.
Thank you! Great to know 🤙🏽
Seal everything. Spray foam the entire roof surface. No vents unless you are going to build a ceiling or loft area that you will insulate. Don’t need to vent otherwise.
Make sure to caulk everything
If you did add vents wouldn’t the purlins block the air flow and make them useless anyway?
Put bug screen under those vents or you’ll have some big wasp nests inside the soffit.
Gotta build your bird boxes
You should have left 4 inches opening from the wall to the soffit. This way you can run the brick work behind the soffit panels instead of cutting each brick to but tight against the soffit panels.
if u have not i would recommend some kind of net behind them vents to sop them little bugs getting in and building a home
There is one pre installed on the backside of the vents 👍🏽
Work looks good but I expect you might run into some issues when it comes time for brick since normally soffit would be done after brick is in place.
1) You will either need to angle cut all your uppermost bricks to match your soffit angle, or you will need to run a tall 1x6 or or 1x8 frieze board to cover the brick gaps.
2) Vents were placed too far inward and will interfere with brick. They also shouldn't be needed if you're spray foaming the inside of the roof decking as you will have a "hot roof" instead of a vented roof.
3) Last thing is the triangle end caps of your eave soffit should also be out 5" or whatever so they are flush with the brick face on the gable ends.
I'm not an expert and not trying to criticize, these are just things I saw that you might want to think about now before you are left to deal with them come brick time.
That Benz though. All in the corner like it did something wrong and it’s being punished.
Paperweight just doing its job. Holding down the cardboard it’s sitting on while leaking on it 😂
Lol
you dont need vents if your spray foaming ceiling
not sure how you remain so calm during the permit process. I'm losing my mind
Jeez man, that’s my SS # !!
😂
You should have built the shop based on the original permit and added whatever you wanted when the building was signed off on.
what do you do full time ?
Ventilation cools the roofing. It burns up and fails early without it.
I think you spoke by Bideninse when you almost hit that wall😂😂
Do you have to put fire sprinklers in your building?
No requirement for that. However we’ll have a ton of fire extinguishers 😂
Use closed cell spray foam and you won’t need ventilation under the roof sheathing. The spray foam contractor will be able to explain best.
Same exact thing happened on my metal building, hired 3 guys paid $5000 to erect the building and I’ve got waves on my facia boards the building is not as square as my standards would be. If I had the time I would have done it myself, but who has that? 😅
Chad, an unrelated question to your build, but how profitable is it to make videos here in YT? Since you busted through 200k subscribers I’m super curious on what the payout is. Is it per view? Per subscriber? Either way, congrats. I’m always looking forward to the update on your truck and/or the shop update. Now looking forward to seeing what comes from the Kings of Dirt on your truck.
Wait, did I miss him in a prior video talking about replacing his gloves finally? :D Keep up the great work man, its coming along nicely!
He did at one point, but said "not yet".... I guess he couldn't take it anymore, can't blame him... 😂
I lost the gloves 😂 actually ended up finding them this weekend and they will be making a comeback in the next video 😎
Every Ohana SSN starts with 808 lol
😂
Get you another A frame ladder or two and a 20ft two by twelve board and make you a scaffold . Less climbing up and down on a ladder especially when you start your siding.
☝🏽I need to do this. I’m getting sick of moving this little scaffolding around 😅
Yeah I’m building a pool house and it’s been a game charger. Just make sure not to leave the board out in the weather or it can warp. Then it makes it sketchy walking on it.
Are you putting gutters on?
Put up some LED Xmas lights under the soffit now while your working.
I was thinking add some exterior receptacles under the sofets for what ever you want. Put them on a switch.
You should make a side walk all the way around
It's going to be pretty hard for the inspector to see the wire for the exterior lighting that will be hidden in the soffits. Problem, probably, if you use 120v lights. Maybe not, if you use low voltage/solar powered lights.
Since the metal z-roof girders/perlins run perpendicular the the normal airflow of a vented roof, a vented roof assembly is not easily accomplished in your situation. You do not have a space between roof and celing that needs to be vented. When close cell spray foam is used for roof insulation applied diretly to the sheathing, ventilation is not required. This is covered clearly in code. However, IMO, it's a good idea to vent the soffits themselves, but only if the soffits are air sealed from the interior space. I would add one vent each side up high, near the peak of the gables.
You could add fans with dampers to those roof vents, just for those times you want ventilation of the interior space (like vehicle exhaust extraction)
Thank you!
I hate to be that guy but brick will need a brick box cornice or soffit for the masons to lay up and inside of. Or you can also in your case now that its done youll have to shoot a 2x6 to the bottom of the soffit lay the brick up to that and then you have to nail a trim pice to the 2x6 to cover the brick gap.
You didn't screen the vents. Bees and hornets love these vents.
There’s a screen pre installed on the backside 👍🏽 hard to see in the video. Good call though
Never understood why people birdbox their soffit to make them level in the eaves, just put your soffits in flush with the tails to match the pitch, imo it looks better than the pitch change compared to the gable ends.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You dont need vents ..1 it looks like the I beams are againt the roof so thetes nothing for the air to go ..i think im rite on that
No ventilation needed. Spray 1” of closed cell, which will ensure building is watertight, then 4”-5” of open cell on top of that.
Are you going to utilize a mini split AC on your shop?
That’s the plan!
Non vented roof deck.
There no point for the vent is you are going the spray foam route
Idk if anyone’s mentioned it, but all of your cut ends on the LP should have been painted. When you cut through the chips it exposes raw untreated wood and will swell over time. Also all your finish nails need to be touched up too. Just some friendly advise from a certified LP installer!
I know I’m going to sound like I’m late to the game but… my man why did you nail up the soffit material? You should have screwed it up so incase you had to get back in there one day to run more wire.. I’m a huge fan of being able to undo your finishing work to help with future ideas…
Don’t close yourself in with permanent options.
thought you had to brick veneer to match house, leave gable eaves open to make veneer easier
Trying to get the city to approve a 4’ wainscot in the sides/back so I can use siding from 4’ up 👍🏽. Hopefully they grant approval on that
Your a BEAST my brother, Great job, Now go have a GREAT LABORER DAY WEEKEND,YOU DESERVE IT GOD BLESS YOU ALL 🙏✝️✡️🇺🇸♥️🏆
🤙🏽🤙🏽
Disclaimer I work in logistics aka a CDL rider, but this is my input
* deleted bc I was wrong * acording to the people who know things you dont need vents with how this building was made
I don’t recommend drilling through the metal beams for wiring, or anything else for that matter. Those beams are engineered to handle the weight of the roof and building. Drilling through them can jeopardize the integrity of the beam. Shop is coming along great man
Yooooooo