You had the trencher, you should have run a water line also. Not sure if you can add it above your cat 6 line, Long time ago, but think you need it next to power by 12-18 inches. Maybe lay the pipe on top of the hole about 12 inches down, run it about 18 past your electrical riser at shop, and run over to the concrete to tap into the faucet there with a small hose to the pipe. Also make sure the cat six is separated by 6 inches or so from power, and buy tape,(usually code) to put below the cat 6 to remind you of power below. And if you do the water, put "buried cable below" tape (might want to add a power tape also). I know you will never forget where the wires are, but a future contractor won't know. I know a dream shop has to have water, and hot water in the very distant future.
Run a couple of pre-terminated fiber cables. Use that as your vertical wiring from the house to the shop. Then all you need is a switch and access point in the shop to extend your home. The Ubiquiti Dream machine is a great start if you want to get a little more serious with great community support.
100% on the fiber and UDM Pro. Copper CAT6 needs to have adequate lightning and surge protection to prevent frying everything in the house if there's a close by lighting strike. I'd consider even skipping the fiber and use Ubiquity point to point.
Yes, run fiber instead. Cat6 cables have to weak copper and insulation and will create issues through grounding problem especially in areas with lightening strikes.
Great build. Yours is going to turn out to cost about the same as mine that I had built for me last year, but mine was a bit smaller. I would have loved to do it myself, but an accident put an end to that stuff twenty years ago. Watch your step on those scaffolds as it doesn't take a lot of distance to change your life. ( I binge watched your whole build today after hearing about you from another utuber) MACHINE!!!!!
Love your content. It would be awesome if you added solar panels on the entire roof and have it attached to the board. Would be awesome to see you have renewable energy on your property. Especially with all the sun your property is exposed to receive.
I'm an electrician in a different state, everything was looking good for the install except when they whipped out the cable for the feeders to the shop. Based on what I visually saw that cable isn't rated to be underground, anything in conduit underground needs to be wet location rated. There are many conductors rated to be pulled underground, and pretty much all of them are individual conductors not cables. What they installed is used for feeders going to panels in different parts of a building. Also I don't know if they talked to you about it, but I personally would've much preferred sheetrock damage above the panel inside instead of big pipe on the outside of the building.
I'm getting ready to do basically the same thing he just did. From my limited research, I can't find a wire that is rated to run through my attic and in conduit underground. I was just about to ask what type of wire that was they used when I came across this comment. From my understanding and limited reading of the NEC 2020 (current for my state) my current plan is to run 2/0-2/0-2/0-1 SER from panel across garage down the exterior of the house in conduit to a junction to splice direct burial down to shop, then another splice back to SER in conduit into shop. OR do you know of a cable that can be run both through the attic and through conduit underground. My total run is 200ft. Thanks
@@Teaguejc I can tell you from what I understand that SER cannot be buried even in conduit as per code so your current plan unfortunately wont work I believe its NEC 338.12(A). Im by no means a professional but as I understand it THHN wire of sufficient size would work even in the attic provided you kept it in conduit. Hopefully an electrician could chime in and give a more definitive answer
Needed to be THHN. If you run through an attic but start and finish in pipe it needs to be copper designed for that application. I just went through this process in June.
instead of CAT6 run FIBER to the new build. OM3 multimode fiber can run 10Gb up to 1000 ft. no issue with any electrical installations. Have media converters on either side and you are good to go
started with your diy ramp and binge watched the molokai project. Thx for great content. I wish I had a tenth of your energy!:) Keep up the great work and best wishes for the future.
Major milestone! I hope you drop in a 3/4-1" irrigation line into the trench before you completely fill it! Nice to have a hose bib near the shop. Nice work!
Suggestion instead of painting the conduit drop and leaving exposed..... get a couple pieces of downspout... hog out the house side, and mount to wall as a fake downspout to gutter, just don't put nipple in.... use straps to wall, finish off with an elbow at bottom.
Love this build, Man! Following every ep. Be sure that Cat6 isn't longer than 250-300' or you'll lose signal. In the worst case, you can just use the cat6 to pull your fiber line!
It's so nice to check another big task off the list! I'm having my open house this weekend for my new shop, 60x120x16, I'm finishing up on the in floor heat the next couple of days and lots of cleaning. Take care bud and don't work too hard! Nice new shop dog, looks like he follows you everywhere!
Congratulations!! Maui is a cute puppy! I love doing basic electrical. Just be careful in that panel and make sure you respect that electricity. Be careful and have fun!
Heck yeah! Power is such a game changer when it comes to this stuff. And I'm jealous you got to add your internet cable. I intended to in my build, but the power company came earlier than scheduled (by a couple days) and I couldn't be there. Here the power company runs the underground to the new meter (I did a separate meter and panel vs. sub panel).
As others stated, get a fiber converter and run fiber underground then convert back to cat6. I think Ethernet cable can be a magnet for a lightning strike, which is another reason for fiber.
Just put in a 1500 KVA transformer at work had to run 5 500 mcm conductors per phase and make a cable to bus transition. Had an old unit sub crap the bed. Took me an entire week!
Run at least 3 Cat6e my friend. That's a long run to have to worry about your 1 wire crapping out over time. Leave extra slack on both sides!!! I would go all the way to the back of the shop just to be on the safe side.
I would put the down pipe on the house for the electric on the left side of the downspout, looking at the front of downspout head on. That way you will not see it at all from outside, and you can paint it brown to hide it when you look out the house window.
Hey, love the videos and have been watching since you started. I was just wondering if you are considering doing an epoxy floor. It's super durable, easy to clean and least awhile. You could also customize it a bit by choosing the colour of flake! I do that for a living and just thought it would be a nice touch that would tie everything together floor to ceiling. I'd be interested in your thoughts or if you've already had something in mind!
Well I was going to comment on the electrical panel and the CAT6 cable, but I read through the comments and found that it was well covered as far as maybe 200amps would have been better than 100 and the interference from the electrical. Although the length factor was not mentioned and that also will mess up the signal quality. But I feel you, you get what you can afford for now and let RUclips pay for the upgrade down the road. Congrats on the pup.
Might want to remove this video. If the city inspector sees it they will make you tear up the buried cable run and redo with wet rated wire. Tray Cable is the answer for this type of installation that runs inside a structure and outside buried. Or make a junction on the outside of the buildings and use two different wire types. Slipping and Glueing the conduit one piece at a time over the wire as you lay it is also against code. Have to install your conduit and then pull the wires through it.
Depending on how close they ran the electrical to your CAT-6, you may have interference. The box didn’t appear to be shielded CAT-6. Without it, it will get EMI from your service. Someone mentioned fiber. You could get some pre terminated for pretty cheap and use that CAT-6 as a pull line.
you should also run another dedicated 12 gage electric wire from house to shop for a smoke detector. So you can have a wired detector that is hooked to the other ones in the house. If something goes wrong in the shop, wouldn't you want an advanced notice, before the fire gets to big. Having a wired smoke detector that goes off with the ones in the house is something to think about.
Since we're going crazy with suggestions, why not put a heavy duty piece of string through the pipe so other potential wires can be dragged through later for updates that are currently unknown.
100 amp service is pushing it close. Running a lift, 2 stage air compressor, welder, mini splits, etc. I just hope i heard you right. "Just for inspection purposes"
I literally had to do this about a month ago for my garage project. I only had to go about 25 feet from the house, and I was able to connect directly from the meter box.
I hope you run cat 6 cable that is meant to be buried. If you do not, the "inside" cable you ran underground will not last long, even if in a pipe. Water will always get inside a pipe, no matter how well a job you think you did.
Was that wire required by inspection? I quoted different wires for my new shop which Im building at the moment as well, I ran 350’ and I got a much better deal using No4 seperate wires and I put them into 1 1/2” C40 pvc Pipe and 2’ underground, I just used a backhoe to dig that trench, that machine wouldn’t have touched the soil we have over here, it’s very rocky and stupid hard . We tried drilling holes for the footings and after 1hr using a big machine we had one hole . Took an entire day to drill the holes which weren’t even deep at all but doesn’t need to with such hard compacted soil . My shop is going to be a 50’x100’ with 3 12x12 doors . Been planning it for years and finally making progress on it , Im using 8” thick cement forms, and cementing up 20” per form, and I can go 1 form up per day and Im at form 7 right now, going to 8 right now out of 12 on the front wall, and 10 on the rear.
I'm on the 20th video so far, and while I may not necessarily agree with some of the stuff as far as the way you did it, all that matters is that it got done and looks good. But one quibble that's not minor I have to bring up. Because it's killing me at my house, and I won't do it this way when I build my new garage and my new shop. Having the panel recessed is the absolute worst way to go in a garage and a shop. Because you now have limited access to the box for new stuff. You can only go through the top or bottom, and coming in from the top in my case (bottom in your case), you're passing right by where the main power comes into the box, putting you at risk of hitting the bus bar. You also get zero access to any of the holes in the side of the box. It doesn't take long to max out the number of wires coming through each hole, and code puts a limit on that number based on the hole size and there's only a few holes on top and bottom, whereas the sides have 6-8 holes available. So surface mounting is the way to go, in my opinion, you just have to deal with how that will look. Another option is to mount it through the back plate to the sheathing and cut out the 2x4s on the sides since they don't carry a load, and either leave the bays on each side open or create an access door on each side. Just my .02 Love the work so far, but I'm not loving the cost. It's making me rethink having my own 40x60 at the new place. I hope my LA house sells for a LOT so I can pay for all this.
I hope that CAT6 is shielded. Running it next to that 100 amp cable is most likely going to cause a tremendous amount of interference. Data and power should be 6-8 inches apart.
I was thinking the same thing, a normal 200amp service to a house split to the the new shop and trying to power up all the equipment he was talking about.....good luck!
It is a shame that you did not dig the trench under the driveway before you poured it.Also, the cable you are suing is not for underground use. So glad to see that you used the best panel in the world Square D. Looking good.
You shouldn’t run CAT6 near electrical it creates alot of interference and connection issues. Also are you gonna add water to the shop for like a wash station and maybe even wash cars in the shop and make clean up easier?
Since you ran it through conduit should not be too much of a problem, but I would never run copper comms between building, fiber costs the same and the media converters are well worth the cost of not having lighting take out electronics in both buildings
When you fill it in put warning tape in at that 1ft deep so that if anyone ever digs there in the future they will knows theres high amp wire there before they hit it
If that CAT 6 is in conduit I would consider in the end to replace it with fiber would be much better over the long haul with much more flexibility/speed options.
The reason I added this is Copper ethernet is "limited" to 100m(approx 330 ft) while fiber can literally run MILES with the right equipment on the ends of the fiber. As a added bonus should you(or any future owner of the house) could easily run much faster networking speeds.
Dear God, if you are reading this Chad, run 2 or 3 lines of Cat 7a instead of Cat 6 for speeds with attenuation. Running multiple lines allows for redundancy in the event of failure. With you running a social platform, the last thing you need is for your network to go down. The Cat 7a cable allows for some futureproofing.
With all of those 240v devices you rambled off about having in the shop, is a 100amp service piggy-backed off of your house's service going to be enough? You said the panel in the garage was a 200amp panel, but also said it was a sub panel so do you have another main panel? It almost sounds like you have a main panel, that then has a 200amp sub panel in the garage and now a 100amp sub panel coming off of that in the stand alone garage. That would never be approved in California, but I've notice Texas is a bit- shall we say- flexible with their construction codes.
You had the trencher, you should have run a water line also. Not sure if you can add it above your cat 6 line, Long time ago, but think you need it next to power by 12-18 inches. Maybe lay the pipe on top of the hole about 12 inches down, run it about 18 past your electrical riser at shop, and run over to the concrete to tap into the faucet there with a small hose to the pipe. Also make sure the cat six is separated by 6 inches or so from power, and buy tape,(usually code) to put below the cat 6 to remind you of power below. And if you do the water, put "buried cable below" tape (might want to add a power tape also). I know you will never forget where the wires are, but a future contractor won't know. I know a dream shop has to have water, and hot water in the very distant future.
Run a couple of pre-terminated fiber cables. Use that as your vertical wiring from the house to the shop. Then all you need is a switch and access point in the shop to extend your home. The Ubiquiti Dream machine is a great start if you want to get a little more serious with great community support.
Great advice
100% on the fiber and UDM Pro. Copper CAT6 needs to have adequate lightning and surge protection to prevent frying everything in the house if there's a close by lighting strike. I'd consider even skipping the fiber and use Ubiquity point to point.
A good idea. Copper CAT6 near the electric wires could add noise for Copper CAT6. Fiber wouldn't have that problem.
Yes, run fiber instead. Cat6 cables have to weak copper and insulation and will create issues through grounding problem especially in areas with lightening strikes.
Both the Fiber and Ubiquiti are great ideas. I’m local and happy to help if needed.
Hands down one of the most informative, entertaining, and well shot videos on a shop build. Love this series.
Oh Brother, Maui is clearly YOUR dog with the way he was following you around. Enjoy your new pup.
PS maybe Ele’ele* (Black). But if Mauka was a tongue twister, that wouldn’t be any better.
*Sorry, no ‘okina on my phone.
@@fatjeff8083 Texan's ability to pronounce his name ended up being the key factor... I was about to name him Kolohe 😂 wife said no.
@@LonestarHawaiianKolohe might have been a prediction to be avoided. 😂
I don’t know about others but I had a 😊 in my face just seeing power in the shop I’m happy for you kept the videos coming
Great build. Yours is going to turn out to cost about the same as mine that I had built for me last year, but mine was a bit smaller. I would have loved to do it myself, but an accident put an end to that stuff twenty years ago. Watch your step on those scaffolds as it doesn't take a lot of distance to change your life. ( I binge watched your whole build today after hearing about you from another utuber)
MACHINE!!!!!
I’m getting ready to send power to my shop. I wish a had a MACHINE to dig it like that one.
MACHINE !!!
hand-pink-waving Kyle says Hi!
That's just a great feeling to have done, plus a shop dog... outstanding!!!
by far one of the best feelings is walking into the shop and just flicking the switch. enjoy the process
Love your content. It would be awesome if you added solar panels on the entire roof and have it attached to the board. Would be awesome to see you have renewable energy on your property. Especially with all the sun your property is exposed to receive.
Geez, wouldn't that be in excess of $25k? Something crazy!
I'm an electrician in a different state, everything was looking good for the install except when they whipped out the cable for the feeders to the shop. Based on what I visually saw that cable isn't rated to be underground, anything in conduit underground needs to be wet location rated. There are many conductors rated to be pulled underground, and pretty much all of them are individual conductors not cables. What they installed is used for feeders going to panels in different parts of a building.
Also I don't know if they talked to you about it, but I personally would've much preferred sheetrock damage above the panel inside instead of big pipe on the outside of the building.
I'm getting ready to do basically the same thing he just did. From my limited research, I can't find a wire that is rated to run through my attic and in conduit underground. I was just about to ask what type of wire that was they used when I came across this comment. From my understanding and limited reading of the NEC 2020 (current for my state) my current plan is to run 2/0-2/0-2/0-1 SER from panel across garage down the exterior of the house in conduit to a junction to splice direct burial down to shop, then another splice back to SER in conduit into shop. OR do you know of a cable that can be run both through the attic and through conduit underground. My total run is 200ft. Thanks
@@Teaguejc I can tell you from what I understand that SER cannot be buried even in conduit as per code so your current plan unfortunately wont work I believe its NEC 338.12(A). Im by no means a professional but as I understand it THHN wire of sufficient size would work even in the attic provided you kept it in conduit. Hopefully an electrician could chime in and give a more definitive answer
agree completely. i dont like how they entered the shop. should ran conduit from the ground up the wall into a box and then entered the garage
Needed to be THHN. If you run through an attic but start and finish in pipe it needs to be copper designed for that application. I just went through this process in June.
I used an aluminum wire? then put in conduit. Forget what it's called....
BIG IMPROVEMENT. Electrical !!! Now I can truly say , the fun begins. You can plan everything just the way you want it. PS hi Maui , good dog 🐕
MACHINE. Seriously though, good content enjoyed watching.
instead of CAT6 run FIBER to the new build. OM3 multimode fiber can run 10Gb up to 1000 ft. no issue with any electrical installations. Have media converters on either side and you are good to go
Welcome to the family, Maui!
You’re doing it brother! You’re doing it!!
You should use Lutron switches from every thing that needs power this way can ask your voice assistant of choice to turn on things for you.
started with your diy ramp and binge watched the molokai project. Thx for great content. I wish I had a tenth of your energy!:) Keep up the great work and best wishes for the future.
Major milestone! I hope you drop in a 3/4-1" irrigation line into the trench before you completely fill it! Nice to have a hose bib near the shop. Nice work!
This has been an awesome journey watching you grow your channel. I hope it keeps going strong
Suggestion instead of painting the conduit drop and leaving exposed..... get a couple pieces of downspout... hog out the house side, and mount to wall as a fake downspout to gutter, just don't put nipple in.... use straps to wall, finish off with an elbow at bottom.
Love this build, Man! Following every ep. Be sure that Cat6 isn't longer than 250-300' or you'll lose signal. In the worst case, you can just use the cat6 to pull your fiber line!
It was smart to dig 24" deep. The NEC code is 18" to the top of the conduit.
It's so nice to check another big task off the list! I'm having my open house this weekend for my new shop, 60x120x16, I'm finishing up on the in floor heat the next couple of days and lots of cleaning. Take care bud and don't work too hard!
Nice new shop dog, looks like he follows you everywhere!
60x120 😮 what a dream!
Maui looks just like my black lab Nova. What a beautiful pup!!! Shop is looking great as expected!!
pressure washer + shop vac for "digging" near house/irrigation pipes.
Paint the conduit on the house black and it will look better!
I love seeing a pup following you every step. Miss my yellow lab, she would do the same.
Congratulations!! Maui is a cute puppy! I love doing basic electrical. Just be careful in that panel and make sure you respect that electricity. Be careful and have fun!
the puppy! 😍 I smiled every time the puppy came on screen! also, good job with the build.
Heck yeah! Power is such a game changer when it comes to this stuff. And I'm jealous you got to add your internet cable. I intended to in my build, but the power company came earlier than scheduled (by a couple days) and I couldn't be there. Here the power company runs the underground to the new meter (I did a separate meter and panel vs. sub panel).
I love it thanks. You’re the best.Maui is the most amazing pup . Thanks again
Awesome! Power always makes it more of a reality! Love this series!👍😎
Looks great brother, keep going! Almost there. The rest is the fun part. Finishing with perfection!
As others stated, get a fiber converter and run fiber underground then convert back to cat6. I think Ethernet cable can be a magnet for a lightning strike, which is another reason for fiber.
@SPICERDESIGNS Machine - Just subscribed!
Just put in a 1500 KVA transformer at work had to run 5 500 mcm conductors per phase and make a cable to bus transition. Had an old unit sub crap the bed. Took me an entire week!
Run at least 3 Cat6e my friend. That's a long run to have to worry about your 1 wire crapping out over time. Leave extra slack on both sides!!! I would go all the way to the back of the shop just to be on the safe side.
I would put the down pipe on the house for the electric on the left side of the downspout, looking at the front of downspout head on. That way you will not see it at all from outside, and you can paint it brown to hide it when you look out the house window.
Hey, love the videos and have been watching since you started. I was just wondering if you are considering doing an epoxy floor. It's super durable, easy to clean and least awhile. You could also customize it a bit by choosing the colour of flake! I do that for a living and just thought it would be a nice touch that would tie everything together floor to ceiling. I'd be interested in your thoughts or if you've already had something in mind!
Huge milestone! I am 2 weeks away from have electricity in my dream shop! It's not as nice as yours, lol, but almost as big!
Well I was going to comment on the electrical panel and the CAT6 cable, but I read through the comments and found that it was well covered as far as maybe 200amps would have been better than 100 and the interference from the electrical. Although the length factor was not mentioned and that also will mess up the signal quality. But I feel you, you get what you can afford for now and let RUclips pay for the upgrade down the road. Congrats on the pup.
Super cute dog ! Congrats to you guys from Sweden !
I always enjoy your content!
That's awesome news I love your channel. All family included. Your new puppy rocks. Do you still have your other dog? I didn't see him.
Might want to remove this video. If the city inspector sees it they will make you tear up the buried cable run and redo with wet rated wire.
Tray Cable is the answer for this type of installation that runs inside a structure and outside buried. Or make a junction on the outside of the buildings and use two different wire types.
Slipping and Glueing the conduit one piece at a time over the wire as you lay it is also against code. Have to install your conduit and then pull the wires through it.
Wow it’s good to see kanakas making it on RUclips this is so cool !!! Aloha Braddah your inspiration for us Hawaiians
The dog is clearly following you. What a sweetie. Our dog does that but I’m always worried he’ll come around when I’m welding and stare at it. 😳
Depending on how close they ran the electrical to your CAT-6, you may have interference. The box didn’t appear to be shielded CAT-6. Without it, it will get EMI from your service. Someone mentioned fiber. You could get some pre terminated for pretty cheap and use that CAT-6 as a pull line.
Congrats man! Can’t wait to see it continue to come together
you should also run another dedicated 12 gage electric wire from house to shop for a smoke detector. So you can have a wired detector that is hooked to the other ones in the house. If something goes wrong in the shop, wouldn't you want an advanced notice, before the fire gets to big. Having a wired smoke detector that goes off with the ones in the house is something to think about.
Since we're going crazy with suggestions, why not put a heavy duty piece of string through the pipe so other potential wires can be dragged through later for updates that are currently unknown.
@@Xyzair Mule Tape.. that should go without saying.
Yo Maui is one of the cutest little pups I've seen in a while take care of him and love him to death
100 amp service is pushing it close. Running a lift, 2 stage air compressor, welder, mini splits, etc.
I just hope i heard you right. "Just for inspection purposes"
Congratulations on the approval. Mocha is awesome. Enjoy being a dog parent.
Got to do plumbing next extra bathroom always comes in handy and a faucet could also come in handy
I literally had to do this about a month ago for my garage project. I only had to go about 25 feet from the house, and I was able to connect directly from the meter box.
I would have run a 2-“ 2 1/2” spare conduit as well. Texas is great location for solar, your building is better location for panels.
Yep, it's pretty badass!
so sweet right on braddah ,,, looks badass
Loved to see the kiwi’s singlet on ❤ 6:38
Congratulations Bro.
LET THERE BE LIGHT !
Take care, aloha
~Jonny5🥁
Congrats, on the shop lights and power.
I hope you run cat 6 cable that is meant to be buried. If you do not, the "inside" cable you ran underground will not last long, even if in a pipe. Water will always get inside a pipe, no matter how well a job you think you did.
Way to go brother, looking awesome.
We had a meter put on our garage, so it was then the electric companies job to get power to the meter box I installed on the garage
Hahaaa. Maui. , I shud of waiting till the end to post
Maui is cool too🤙🏽
Was that wire required by inspection? I quoted different wires for my new shop which Im building at the moment as well, I ran 350’ and I got a much better deal using No4 seperate wires and I put them into 1 1/2” C40 pvc Pipe and 2’ underground, I just used a backhoe to dig that trench, that machine wouldn’t have touched the soil we have over here, it’s very rocky and stupid hard . We tried drilling holes for the footings and after 1hr using a big machine we had one hole . Took an entire day to drill the holes which weren’t even deep at all but doesn’t need to with such hard compacted soil . My shop is going to be a 50’x100’ with 3 12x12 doors . Been planning it for years and finally making progress on it , Im using 8” thick cement forms, and cementing up 20” per form, and I can go 1 form up per day and Im at form 7 right now, going to 8 right now out of 12 on the front wall, and 10 on the rear.
I ordered some LMNT. Hoping it works for my wife’s POTS
I'm on the 20th video so far, and while I may not necessarily agree with some of the stuff as far as the way you did it, all that matters is that it got done and looks good. But one quibble that's not minor I have to bring up. Because it's killing me at my house, and I won't do it this way when I build my new garage and my new shop. Having the panel recessed is the absolute worst way to go in a garage and a shop. Because you now have limited access to the box for new stuff. You can only go through the top or bottom, and coming in from the top in my case (bottom in your case), you're passing right by where the main power comes into the box, putting you at risk of hitting the bus bar. You also get zero access to any of the holes in the side of the box. It doesn't take long to max out the number of wires coming through each hole, and code puts a limit on that number based on the hole size and there's only a few holes on top and bottom, whereas the sides have 6-8 holes available. So surface mounting is the way to go, in my opinion, you just have to deal with how that will look. Another option is to mount it through the back plate to the sheathing and cut out the 2x4s on the sides since they don't carry a load, and either leave the bays on each side open or create an access door on each side. Just my .02 Love the work so far, but I'm not loving the cost. It's making me rethink having my own 40x60 at the new place. I hope my LA house sells for a LOT so I can pay for all this.
Use unifi for you Access point and switches for you home router.
I hope that CAT6 is shielded. Running it next to that 100 amp cable is most likely going to cause a tremendous amount of interference. Data and power should be 6-8 inches apart.
other than your LED lights I would make sure each wall has its own breaker and would do every plug with 12/2 using nothing but 20 amp plugs.
Dude... separate service, or 400 on the house, split 200 to the shop,... you gonna WANT them amps.
I was thinking the same thing, a normal 200amp service to a house split to the the new shop and trying to power up all the equipment he was talking about.....good luck!
💯% agree!! I am surprised there isn't more comments on this !!
Exactly just let the power company put them separate service on. It would’ve been a lot better in the long run.
Yep.. 200amp he would have been able to get AC in the shop.
The wire he ran is already 200 amp wire so it would have been easy to do
If you are able, always leave a strand or two of pulling rope in conduit. Copper in network cable fails at times.
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
It is a shame that you did not dig the trench under the driveway before you poured it.Also, the cable you are suing is not for underground use. So glad to see that you used the best panel in the world Square D. Looking good.
Squared QO is great! Homeline not so much..
For the bends in the pvc use your truck exhaust to heat it up. RUclips how to. 😉
You shouldn’t run CAT6 near electrical it creates alot of interference and connection issues. Also are you gonna add water to the shop for like a wash station and maybe even wash cars in the shop and make clean up easier?
The man is wearing a Kiwis league singlet my man 💪 ... big ups from New Zealand...
Awesome job 👍
Since you ran it through conduit should not be too much of a problem, but I would never run copper comms between building, fiber costs the same and the media converters are well worth the cost of not having lighting take out electronics in both buildings
Great job again!
I have a pipe similar to that galvanized in my basement never messed with it but the other end pops out of the driveway with an air fitting on it.
Finally!! Congrats
everything is bigger in Texas, even wait times for permit approval apparently.
You can always paint the pipe the same color as the downspout.
When you fill it in put warning tape in at that 1ft deep so that if anyone ever digs there in the future they will knows theres high amp wire there before they hit it
New subscriber! Found you through Kyle at Spicer Designs. “Machine” 😁
If that CAT 6 is in conduit I would consider in the end to replace it with fiber would be much better over the long haul with much more flexibility/speed options.
The reason I added this is Copper ethernet is "limited" to 100m(approx 330 ft) while fiber can literally run MILES with the right equipment on the ends of the fiber. As a added bonus should you(or any future owner of the house) could easily run much faster networking speeds.
Pupper! 😍The shop's not bad either... 😉
Dear God, if you are reading this Chad, run 2 or 3 lines of Cat 7a instead of Cat 6 for speeds with attenuation. Running multiple lines allows for redundancy in the event of failure.
With you running a social platform, the last thing you need is for your network to go down. The Cat 7a cable allows for some futureproofing.
Dam just got approval and already the video is out.
I've been ready and waiting for that dang approval 🤣
They didn't run ser in a conduit? did they?
Super awesome!!!
Another idea Should look at running water over there as well! Won’t regret it
With all of those 240v devices you rambled off about having in the shop, is a 100amp service piggy-backed off of your house's service going to be enough?
You said the panel in the garage was a 200amp panel, but also said it was a sub panel so do you have another main panel?
It almost sounds like you have a main panel, that then has a 200amp sub panel in the garage and now a 100amp sub panel coming off of that in the stand alone garage. That would never be approved in California, but I've notice Texas is a bit- shall we say- flexible with their construction codes.
you need to run fiber to the garage if you're going to run it so close and in parallel with the electrical wire
Machine.
Before you burry the line put yellow caution tape on top of it so if you dig later you know to watch out.