I am working a second job to get my Trans am body work and paint done, I have done a little bit of body work on a truck that I have and I spend 5 fours on just one dent, I can only imagine how long that takes. Great video.
right on. cant learn unless we try. It will get easier and faster for you. I was super slow at first but it is all so much easier now. It did take me 9 years to get this car back on the road though. LOL. thanks for the comment and for checking out the video.
Love it! Deja vu all over again though! I got an email with your comment, but I can't find it on the video for some reason. Thanks for bringing another 2nd gen to RUclips!
Nice! Thanks for the Tip DKR! I did use some steel rod on a few places where the gap was pretty large, but a coat hanger would be the trick for the other thinner areas.
Hmmm. I never adjust a door with the striker pin installed. I do all my adjustments and gaps first and install striker pin at the end so it doesnt throw out the true alignment of the door.
Very true. This is the best method for adjusting. I think having the striker in place was important for the work I was doing so that the door didn’t close all the way in and damage the jambs. Definitely agree with you Tim. Don’t want the striker to influence the gaps. Gaps need to be good without it 👍👍
Great question. I would use a cutoff wheel/grinder and take the metal on one of the edges back about 1/32 to 1/16 further than what you need to make it right. Then build it back up with weld a touch more than you need. Grind back and sand/file to perfection. If you are doing this on a door skin, only do sections of the door at a time. That way the edge of the skin that is folded over the door shell doesn’t get completely detached.
Hi steve. Im wondering if there is a better alternative? I did grind it back further than what the gap called for and then added plenty of weld to build it back. Seems like a solid weld would hold up good. Hopefully I don't have any trouble with this.
When u do that u will split new skin, when u weld the split it burns thru and it keeps splitting, causing more trouble after paint, the car will vibrate causing more splits and problems, its a mess then on. My exp doing that,
I'm not busting balls here, everyone has a opinion, when I skin a door, I will grind inner shell edges add skin, fit door, move skin to get my lines, tack it to shell, remove door CARFULLY PLACE BACK ON CARDBOARD ON STAND, tack it grind welds wire brush tacks etc seam seal and prime the inside,
@@stevewilliams8143 gotcha. I wish I would have done that. I fit the skin and fully installed the skin with the shell off the car. I also did the same thing with patching the lower fender. Next time I’m definitely gonna gonna do it the way you described. I appreciate the comment and advice!
@@HeavyPedalGarage its just way I did it in bodyshops before I retired, i don't share many trade secrets, lol but im in a wheelchair w health problems, be safe with all materials u use, thanks
there is nothing at all being done wrong here. these cars never had the right gaps and this is the only way to get a gap that good. the contour of the edge of the door just doesnt seem to match that on the quarter panel
I am working a second job to get my Trans am body work and paint done, I have done a little bit of body work on a truck that I have and I spend 5 fours on just one dent, I can only imagine how long that takes. Great video.
right on. cant learn unless we try. It will get easier and faster for you. I was super slow at first but it is all so much easier now. It did take me 9 years to get this car back on the road though. LOL. thanks for the comment and for checking out the video.
Good stuff and thanks mate from Belair, Australia
Thanks for checking out the video! Appreciate ya!
end result looks great, well done
Thanks 👍
Love it! Deja vu all over again though! I got an email with your comment, but I can't find it on the video for some reason. Thanks for bringing another 2nd gen to RUclips!
Awesome. Thanks for the comment and subscription!!
one way to close a gap is to weld on a thick coat hanger. gives a smooth edge.
Nice! Thanks for the Tip DKR! I did use some steel rod on a few places where the gap was pretty large, but a coat hanger would be the trick for the other thinner areas.
looks good
Thank ya!
Great video bro
Thanks! it was one of the first ones i posted on my channel and remains fairly popular. Thanks for checking it out and for dropping me a coomment!.
nice work sir,
Cool. Thanks for checking out the channel!
Works for me bud. Sub'd
Thank you! greatly appreciated!
Do you ever cut the quarter panals and gap it to the doors
sure do. works pretty good. i dont remember cutting them on this car, but i did cut the fender using the same technique.
Hmmm. I never adjust a door with the striker pin installed. I do all my adjustments and gaps first and install striker pin at the end so it doesnt throw out the true alignment of the door.
Very true. This is the best method for adjusting. I think having the striker in place was important for the work I was doing so that the door didn’t close all the way in and damage the jambs. Definitely agree with you Tim. Don’t want the striker to influence the gaps. Gaps need to be good without it 👍👍
How do you handle gaps that are too tight? TIA
Great question. I would use a cutoff wheel/grinder and take the metal on one of the edges back about 1/32 to 1/16 further than what you need to make it right. Then build it back up with weld a touch more than you need. Grind back and sand/file to perfection. If you are doing this on a door skin, only do sections of the door at a time. That way the edge of the skin that is folded over the door shell doesn’t get completely detached.
U should never grind a door skin or weld it to get a door line, the splitting of a door skin will cause problems there 4 all yrs to come period,
Hi steve. Im wondering if there is a better alternative? I did grind it back further than what the gap called for and then added plenty of weld to build it back. Seems like a solid weld would hold up good. Hopefully I don't have any trouble with this.
When u do that u will split new skin, when u weld the split it burns thru and it keeps splitting, causing more trouble after paint, the car will vibrate causing more splits and problems, its a mess then on. My exp doing that,
I'm not busting balls here, everyone has a opinion, when I skin a door, I will grind inner shell edges add skin, fit door, move skin to get my lines, tack it to shell, remove door CARFULLY PLACE BACK ON CARDBOARD ON STAND, tack it grind welds wire brush tacks etc seam seal and prime the inside,
@@stevewilliams8143 gotcha. I wish I would have done that. I fit the skin and fully installed the skin with the shell off the car. I also did the same thing with patching the lower fender. Next time I’m definitely gonna gonna do it the way you described. I appreciate the comment and advice!
@@HeavyPedalGarage its just way I did it in bodyshops before I retired, i don't share many trade secrets, lol but im in a wheelchair w health problems, be safe with all materials u use, thanks
there is nothing at all being done wrong here. these cars never had the right gaps and this is the only way to get a gap that good. the contour of the edge of the door just doesnt seem to match that on the quarter panel
For sure! The fit and finish of the 70s... wow!