That was well executed! Exactly the way I learned about 40 years ago - back when they taught Mechanics some Body Adjustments... Back to Front. The only way to do it right!! Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Great info ! When I do door alignments I use fuel line. I split it an put along the door bottom edge. For the bottom edge gap it's worked for me an I go from there. Especially my Fords
Perfect...Perfect timing for me with this video. I am right now in my garage doing panel alignment on my 68 Fairlane formal roof( doors, fenders, hood and cowl) My instincts led me to take these steps but your instructions validate AND add some very subtle tips to the process. I have been following Autorestomod as a subscriber and you have been my number ONE source for tech .The vids for intermittent wipers, printed dash circuit repair, exhaust build, headliner installation, stainless trim repair, etc. just to name a few. Thanks Jeff and crew!
always good to see good body panel aligning. On my 62 I plan on pinning the panels once I get them aligned then blow apart for paint. Same as you, 6-months to 2 years from now. Who knows.
Hi! I just discovered your channel a couple of days ago. I've got a 1969 Fairlane 500 (with a 351W) that was originally purchased new by my parents and took me 15 years to restore (a little piece at a time) so I'll enjoy watching you work on your station wagon. I have a deep respect and admiration for anyone who restores wagons as their unique parts are almost impossible to find, new or used. Are you a member of the Fairlane Club of America? The membership can be a great source of hard-to-find parts. I'll look forward to watching your progress! Tony.
Awesome! I hope that you will be able to show off your wagon in 2022 when the FCA National Meet returns to the east coast, even if you have to register it in the "Diamond in the Rough" display class.
Great job Jeff!! This is a crappy job, but after it's complete (and correct) you can really see the difference. It's the difference between acceptable and CORRECT.
You're right, this is not a job to be afraid of. Anyone with some patience and basic hand tools can do it. That said, there's definitely an art to the process. Whereas a panel that might take me an hour and several choice words to get right, my buddy (who happens to be a former auto body instructor at a tech school) can give a push here and a tug there and Bingo! have a perfectly aligned and evenly gapped panel.
I have a buddy like that. He is a wiz at it. I'm pretty good, and enjoy the "puzzle" nature of it. If you ain't into puzzles, this might not be for you. LOL
So what is the keystone starting point? Shouldn't you replace all the door hinges before you start aligning the doors otherwise your chasing the ace all over the place.
Note that I checked the hinge on the back door. I didn't on the front because I felt hat I had covered that. Hinges, braces and fasteners are your starting points. With out those in good nick you will be cussing way more.
@@AutoRestoMod I was just thinking that if are going to make adjustments on doors I would replace the hinges then align. With the hinges replaced your alignment would last longer.
this is a good one and alignment is needed when you have space age cars..... like a Starliner! and I was hoping for The Autorestomod Holiday Starliner Extravaganza and Potluck Soiree'
@@AutoRestoMod I haven't given up...its important to cover the harder Ford's... to make the channel better!... I say life is too short....go for the gusto.... I say y'all do the ultimate project... project Maximus....1959 Ford Fairlane Galaxie Skyliner 500
Perfect timing. I need to do some panel adjustments on my 69 Mach 1. The doors bo not close well and the poorly engineered side glass is slipping and moving as I crank the window up. For those that don't know the side glass on the 69 are clamped in not bolted in.
Yes I agree with you but my wife has now put me on an allowance. Too many boxes showing up from National Parts Depot! 😬 She keeps saying every time a box shows up; "I thought this was going be a retirement project".
Honestly, it'd be a 69 if we do one. If Mercury had just left that hood tooth on the grille me a '70 could be solid friends. I've just had too many bite me.
I would, you can scratch the paint if you don't. Of course you can try padding them. But my experience is that as often as you will be taking them off and putting them back on...remove the bumper. LOL
All good info, been watching your videos for a very long time, however (and I apologize in advance) today I happened to notice your elbows are the size of golf balls... I'm sorry, I know its silly.. but now I can't Not notice it. 🙄👍 I really do like the videos and appreciate all the knowledge bombs you drop. Not trying to be mean on any way. Just thought it was kinda funny, had to share. Well that and I know if I point it out it will have others noticing and they won't be able to stop seeing them too... haha Oh man I'm ate up... hahaha
They are from an arthritis condition called bursitis, not painful but annoying to me and...a distraction for others. I try and hid them in the videos because I don't want my health issues to be an issue that clouds the information. I lack health insurance so getting them fixed is an issue financially.
Here's a real life scenario that I encountered some years ago, and would like your opinion on: Back in the early 1990s, I bought an estate sale car, a 1981 Buick Century, only 4,000 miles on her! Everything was in relatively pristine shape, and it was a turn-key car. But after driving it through my first winter with it, it was apparent that something wasn't right: Squeaks and rattles were coming from all four doors, especially when driving over rough or uneven pavement. Not only that, even with the heater blasting, the cabin would just not stay warm on cold January or February days. By early-March I discovered that I could move the strike posts on all four doors, and bring them in a few cm(1/8 inch) or so. Now here's the catch: Before adjusting the door strike posts or hinges on this Buick, I must say that the doors and quarter panels all lined up pretty evenly on this low-mileage Buick, nice square body. So I had to choose my battles: Doors that were flush, yet let cold winter drafts in, or, doors that were not so flush, and gaps not so even, yet allowed a tight enough seal against the weather stripping to keep out the drafts, and keep heat in. The rear doors were particularly bad, where the exterior door sheet metal was flush with the rear quarter panels, but the rubber weather seal looks like it never even made solid contact with the body frame! So my question is, what if getting those perfectly even gaps and in-outward alignment of car door panels results in the doors not sealing tight enough? Sure, the car looks mint, but hot air seeps in during summer, and escapes during winter! Ultimately, I ended up moving all four strikers in over 1/8 inch each, which kept the cabin warm and quiet in winter, and cool and quiet in summer! Plus, no more squeaks, and the body actually felt more solid, and the car even rolled better. What to do?
Do you want to do this on a car that's painted? No. Will you have to? Probably, if you want to do a good paint job. Will you regret doing it on a painted car? Absolutely. Don't do what I did. Make sure you've got at least a hair gap where the fender meets the cowl or you'll be pulling your hair out when the fender creaks while you go down the road.
I have friends that talk about pining the panels. I find it just plain doesn't work. I have one more video for this week that will get more detailed on the fenders and how to keep from wrecking them when adjusting.
That was well executed! Exactly the way I learned about 40 years ago - back when they taught Mechanics some Body Adjustments...
Back to Front. The only way to do it right!!
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Right on! Thanks for the kind words!
Holy shit, the Backdrop looks great with Auto Krafters sign behind you.....now I feel better....your going to hit that 100K for sure....
HAHAHAHA! I like it. It does a great job and will be employed on Fords Focus too.
Great info ! When I do door alignments I use fuel line. I split it an put along the door bottom edge. For the bottom edge gap it's worked for me an I go from there. Especially my Fords
Great tip! Thanks for the kind words
Perfect...Perfect timing for me with this video. I am right now in my garage doing panel alignment on my 68 Fairlane formal roof( doors, fenders, hood and cowl) My instincts led me to take these steps but your instructions validate AND add some very subtle tips to the process. I have been following Autorestomod as a subscriber and you have been my number ONE source for tech .The vids for intermittent wipers, printed dash circuit repair, exhaust build, headliner installation, stainless trim repair, etc. just to name a few. Thanks Jeff and crew!
Thanks for the kind words!
Thanks Jeff - just what the doctor ordered. Please keep the great info coming!
Will do!
Great info, and very timely, as I've got door and fender installation on my Mach 1 coming up soon. Thanks for all you do.
Glad to help
" yeah patina,....I don't care."
Thank you for this. Patina queens drive me crazy
I plan to make this one nice. I like Patina, but no more than I like a good solid painted car.
always good to see good body panel aligning. On my 62 I plan on pinning the panels once I get them aligned then blow apart for paint. Same as you, 6-months to 2 years from now. Who knows.
I quit doing pinning. I can never get them to line up.
You are truly a Jedi Master.
Thank you I do.
Great video,
I'm almost ready to rehang my fenders on my car, this will help me for alignment.
Thank You.
Glad it helped
Hi! I just discovered your channel a couple of days ago. I've got a 1969 Fairlane 500 (with a 351W) that was originally purchased new by my parents and took me 15 years to restore (a little piece at a time) so I'll enjoy watching you work on your station wagon. I have a deep respect and admiration for anyone who restores wagons as their unique parts are almost impossible to find, new or used. Are you a member of the Fairlane Club of America? The membership can be a great source of hard-to-find parts. I'll look forward to watching your progress! Tony.
Thanks for joining in Tony! I am a member of the Fairlane Club. and you are right, wagons are a much harder car to get parts for!
Awesome! I hope that you will be able to show off your wagon in 2022 when the FCA National Meet returns to the east coast, even if you have to register it in the "Diamond in the Rough" display class.
Great job Jeff!! This is a crappy job, but after it's complete (and correct) you can really see the difference. It's the difference between acceptable and CORRECT.
Agreed...where is the ibuprofen again?
I have a clean 1969 Torino convertible this episode very helpful door adjustment information
Glad to hear.
The Yoda light sabre scene at the end was excellent.
Thanks! One thing I took from my misspent youth: the ability to do lightsaber noises and Yoda I can sound like...Mmmm?
Hey Jeff great stuff on the ford - I will use the force when I do mine 😀
Thanks much for the information Sir
Use your Yoda voice for better application.
Gonna have to rewatch for resetting the doors on the 67 when I get home
Yup. creating even MORE work for ya!
@@AutoRestoMod I aint scared, lol
oh man, i hate these types of puzzles - but its really sweet when you don't have to worry about the paint ::thumbs up::
Thanks!
SHIMS are very important!!
Yes. I try and use them only when pushed into it, but sometimes you get pushed.
I learned a lot. Thank you
Glad to hear it!
You're right, this is not a job to be afraid of. Anyone with some patience and basic hand tools can do it. That said, there's definitely an art to the process. Whereas a panel that might take me an hour and several choice words to get right, my buddy (who happens to be a former auto body instructor at a tech school) can give a push here and a tug there and Bingo! have a perfectly aligned and evenly gapped panel.
I have a buddy like that. He is a wiz at it. I'm pretty good, and enjoy the "puzzle" nature of it. If you ain't into puzzles, this might not be for you. LOL
So what is the keystone starting point? Shouldn't you replace all the door hinges before you start aligning the doors otherwise your chasing the ace all over the place.
Note that I checked the hinge on the back door. I didn't on the front because I felt hat I had covered that. Hinges, braces and fasteners are your starting points. With out those in good nick you will be cussing way more.
@@AutoRestoMod I was just thinking that if are going to make adjustments on doors I would replace the hinges then align. With the hinges replaced your alignment would last longer.
Very in depth thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
this is a good one and alignment is needed when you have space age cars.....
like a Starliner!
and I was hoping for The Autorestomod Holiday Starliner Extravaganza and Potluck Soiree'
LOL I missed your Starliner comments.
@@AutoRestoMod I haven't given up...its important to cover the harder Ford's... to make the channel better!...
I say life is too short....go for the gusto....
I say y'all do the ultimate project...
project Maximus....1959 Ford Fairlane Galaxie Skyliner 500
Perfect timing. I need to do some panel adjustments on my 69 Mach 1. The doors bo not close well and the poorly engineered side glass is slipping and moving as I crank the window up. For those that don't know the side glass on the 69 are clamped in not bolted in.
If you can afford it, go to the '70 glass and mount. It will knock out most of that headache. Make sure to check the hinges as I did on the back door.
Yes I agree with you but my wife has now put me on an allowance. Too many boxes showing up from National Parts Depot! 😬 She keeps saying every time a box shows up; "I thought this was going be a retirement project".
Of a 97 Firebird Formula replace the left driver's door Bennett 3 shops couldn't line my door very disgusted what can I do
I'd like to see a 70 Cougar on your channel some time.
Honestly, it'd be a 69 if we do one. If Mercury had just left that hood tooth on the grille me a '70 could be solid friends. I've just had too many bite me.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks for the reply. Maybe just a 351 Cleveland how to then. They're a popular engine here in Australia.
What’s the part behind the bumper called
gday from Australia great body Alignment from Phill go the ford motor cars
Thanks mate!
Awesome... love that light saber effect hahaha
Thanks 😆
Thanks! Good Work!
Thank you too!
Question. Do I have to remove the front bumper in order to drop the front fenders on a '68 Torino?
I would, you can scratch the paint if you don't. Of course you can try padding them. But my experience is that as often as you will be taking them off and putting them back on...remove the bumper. LOL
Your elbows, man! Are they painful? Great tutorial!
Not really, mostly unsightly. I have bursitis (Popeye elbow) and nothing I've done seems to help.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks. Sorry. Big fan. So appreciative.
Nice video
Thanks
Nice.work.great.tip.my.friend
You. Are. Welcome.
i would like to see this done on a falcon, 2 door , hard top where the inside of the fender can not be removed.
We will be doing that on our 1964 Hardtop.
I dropped my front end 2", & now I can't open the damn door.
Thanks for the info, it'll definitely help.
That might be more a chassis issue...
You may a well been speaking Clingon through all that! That's how much I dislike panel alignment! Great job though! lol
Ok, we talking Clingon...or Klingon...cause those are two different things...😆
@@AutoRestoMod SEE!!!! Exactly what I'm talking about!
I wonder how they fit cars front the factory....
Sometimes not so well.
All good info, been watching your videos for a very long time, however (and I apologize in advance) today I happened to notice your elbows are the size of golf balls... I'm sorry, I know its silly.. but now I can't Not notice it. 🙄👍
I really do like the videos and appreciate all the knowledge bombs you drop. Not trying to be mean on any way. Just thought it was kinda funny, had to share. Well that and I know if I point it out it will have others noticing and they won't be able to stop seeing them too... haha
Oh man I'm ate up... hahaha
They are from an arthritis condition called bursitis, not painful but annoying to me and...a distraction for others. I try and hid them in the videos because I don't want my health issues to be an issue that clouds the information. I lack health insurance so getting them fixed is an issue financially.
Informative, that was 🐸.... 😁
Do or do not...there is no try!
Harbor freight color coded sockets!!!
Yep. We use them as a great disposable socket.
1st comment ! woho thank you so much again for showing this :D
No problem 😊
Here's a real life scenario that I encountered some years ago, and would like your opinion on:
Back in the early 1990s, I bought an estate sale car, a 1981 Buick Century, only 4,000 miles on her! Everything was in relatively pristine shape, and it was a turn-key car.
But after driving it through my first winter with it, it was apparent that something wasn't right: Squeaks and rattles were coming from all four doors, especially when driving over rough or uneven pavement. Not only that, even with the heater blasting, the cabin would just not stay warm on cold January or February days. By early-March I discovered that I could move the strike posts on all four doors, and bring them in a few cm(1/8 inch) or so.
Now here's the catch: Before adjusting the door strike posts or hinges on this Buick, I must say that the doors and quarter panels all lined up pretty evenly on this low-mileage Buick, nice square body. So I had to choose my battles: Doors that were flush, yet let cold winter drafts in, or, doors that were not so flush, and gaps not so even, yet allowed a tight enough seal against the weather stripping to keep out the drafts, and keep heat in.
The rear doors were particularly bad, where the exterior door sheet metal was flush with the rear quarter panels, but the rubber weather seal looks like it never even made solid contact with the body frame!
So my question is, what if getting those perfectly even gaps and in-outward alignment of car door panels results in the doors not sealing tight enough? Sure, the car looks mint, but hot air seeps in during summer, and escapes during winter! Ultimately, I ended up moving all four strikers in over 1/8 inch each, which kept the cabin warm and quiet in winter, and cool and quiet in summer! Plus, no more squeaks, and the body actually felt more solid, and the car even rolled better.
What to do?
this is such a helpful video thank you so much. Could I get a T-shirt
Thanks for the kind words! We have them for sale below the description and above the comments.
Since everything moves, you don't really have a reference point. Both a blessing and a curse, I suppose.
Always start at the rear quarter and move forward.
Do you want to do this on a car that's painted? No. Will you have to? Probably, if you want to do a good paint job. Will you regret doing it on a painted car? Absolutely. Don't do what I did. Make sure you've got at least a hair gap where the fender meets the cowl or you'll be pulling your hair out when the fender creaks while you go down the road.
I have friends that talk about pining the panels. I find it just plain doesn't work. I have one more video for this week that will get more detailed on the fenders and how to keep from wrecking them when adjusting.