You got that right. People buy aftermarket parts and think they’re bolt n go. I learned the hard way, they’re for skilled installers to instal and look good. I have learned a lot recently and things are looking way better. Much thanks to Channels like yours.
Very good - thanks so much for sharing what might seem like a basic bit of knowledge! For DIY people it's something that doesn't get shown on TV or RUclips.
Brother your skills shine! Love that you’re showing your work step by step. I’m learning new shit every time I watch one of your video’s . You a bad man!
A little tip. When aligned at factory, the rear end of the front piece should be some bit further out than the next piece behind the space between. This will prevent from windnoices. How much the "further out" depends on how wide the crack. A friend of mine worked at Volvo in Gothenburg painting. Before paint they checked the alignment. The space between panels and doors before were mostly quite accurate, but the "output" (lay down a ruler between the parts and one should be in air) on the backend of the fenders towards the doors not always... If even, it will occur a swirl in the crack between and this vibrates the panel in rear of it. Note that this output measures differ depending on where on a car. The air is passing the body slower when its in the back due to all whirls building requiring less and less "out" Good luck!
Everything you say in your videos makes sense. An amateur like me understand perfectly thanks to your way of explaining stuff. This is how they should teach metal work everywhere. 👌 🌟
Thank you for this TIP. It is an issue , that I had never seen addressed on any metal working / body work forum. I appreciate your expertise & abilities. Stay Real. Rick
Thanks Rick I am also curious why it’s not more widely covered in fact until very recently I did not think that this was how bodies were lined up. When I had my eureka moment I thought man I bet a lot of people could benefit from this
Holy smokes, this is gold---the doors on my '48 DeSoto are completely misaligned. Some jackalope "fixed" the rh door misalignment by BENDING (smashing) the vertical edge of the door in, by at least 1/8 in. I was wondering how I'd go about fixing this. Thanks again for another super helpful video!
Great channel I've watched a bunch of your videos there is a lot of good info. People do need to be aware that doing this can sometimes cause a buckle at the end of the door. Another thing is don't be afraid to slice the panel next to it and but weld it in the right position. I'm sure you know this and it was not the right call for this job but sometimes it's required. I've done autobody since the late 80s. I've done a some chops, a rear wheel drive conversion swap, a sectioned car, a convertible conversion on a 40 Packard And a bunch of other stuff. Most of the cars I've cut were after the 60s so a lot of things are different to do than older ones.
spot on and much the same principle as still done in car plants all over the world. In some plants a tool called the 'Saarlouis Hammer' is used to 'whack' the corners and other troublesome spots back into shape....if you hunt around, the name might give you a clue as to which major OEM came up with that...
Just join been watching you for few episodes. Your explanation is very clear very nice way to explain the characteristic of metal during formation and assembly. Great video thank 😊
Although all high end paint jobs get a complete coat of filler I do know exactly what you’re talking about one of the things I hate the most is seeing a car with obviously thick edges. It’s not necessary
Awesome, always wondered how this was done! Is it possible to, say, reduce the vertical gap between door skin and rear quarter. I just can't visualise how this would be possible without welding on additional material? 🍻 from Australia
In many cases if the door gap is too wide for your liking and many people do this, add material to the edge of the door. All cars that you see with really tight super crisp door gaps have had this done
Cool build. You both get free tattoos for life. Nice job for both of you. Just an FYI note: when laying up sheet goods, you can place dowels between items that you are glueing. Position things the way you want them and one by one you can slide out the dowels. Voila. Ps. Nice tip about the silicone/bronze. Pps. Is that a BC lilt (accent) that I hear?
@@MakeItKustom . When I was 18 (I'm 57 now) I spent the summer out in the boonies by Parson... 30 miles from Golden in BC. Certain words you use have "THAT" sound. You have some BC mannerisms too. I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested 🙂. Keep on keeping on. And to Christina, thank you. Karl is great BUT remember, he might be the head but you are the neck. Nothing can happen without you.
Having ALOT of fitment issues on a 1972 Blazer with all new sheetmetal, rocker boxes, rockers, doors, floors. Bolt togther parts arent lining up.... any tips?
What can be done to fix a door that is sticking out too much? Like an 1/8th inch but the door hasnt been replaced. Is there a way to adjust that outside edge without hammering? Striker isn’t adjustable. Already tried that.
If you were ever in the military you will know what this is but you got to love those BCGs (Birth Control Glasses) like the ones issued to every private in Basic Training LOL
1969 Chevrolet Panel I have a 3/8" gap at the bottom between the door and the front fender (Drivers Side)....up top only 1/8". I've moved the fender, & the door with minimal success, could I slot out the lower hinge to move the door forward some more? The threaded block in the pillar is moving but just not as far as I'd like it to??? Help The passenger side is perfect.
I was going to ask this also ! ! Glad you did. @Makeitcustom - wish I would have found this video last weekend. I gave up on my door while putting a vehicle all back together. I'm going to try the reverse method for moving it inwards.
My truck just came back from the body shop. The front grill, lights, bumper, and left fender were replaced. The problem I noticed the next day is the bumper is aligned flush to the outside of the fender flare on the right side but on the left it looks like they aligned it flush with the fender then put the flare on. It looks odd because it is in about a half inch more on the left side than the right. Is there a way to adjust this? Or not?
So the outer skin is just folded over the inner skin, then seam sealer? No welds? I have never skinned a door, work on hundreds as a tech. I have thick metal skin on my 1967 C10 and trying to fix panel gaps. I was lucky as the truck had very little rust and all of it was on the drivers side. I got a tough one though. The tailgate was destroyed so I got a GM certified (Not to fit) tailgate from a KC company, put it on and found later, the passengers side is 3/16” thicker on the top 7-8”. So it stick out, go inside the tail light pocket in the bed, it looks like new. I think it will have to split the top of the bedside inside the tail light pocket where the tailgate jamb is. Move it out to be flush then weld in a splice. Not only is this leave no room for bodywork, filler or a way to make it flat and look right, but makes me mad to mess up a clean in-damaged area. The bedside wraps around and spot welded with the tail light pocket stamped in it. I see no way to make the top of the tailgate thinner. Geeesh! This truck is for me. A daily driver that came here by my son, who wanted to pull at trailer to mow yards. I did engine stuff, electrical and welding. He was trying to do body work. I bought a lot of parts, then he gave up, give me the truck & walked away! At 13, I spent $150 for a 1965 C10 Apache. So first and last very close. 38+ years in a shop, 12 year on the family farm, but between elbows and back, forced into retirement. Thanks for the videos and info. ASE Master since 1978 - Retired
Wow man the fitment of aftermarket panels never ceases to amaze me at how inconsistent they are! Sounds like you have a good idea on how to tackle the misalignment. Always a shame to have to cut up new parts but sometimes it’s the only way. Yes some outer skins are just folded around and not welded but not all. I have seen some that are spot welded into place as well. It’s best to clean them off and you will be able to visually see whether or not it is spot welded
It truly is a crying shame to cut a perfect tail light pocket to fit the tailgate. Especially paying a lot plus shipping. I wouldn’t have bought it but for the “GM Certied” stamping advertisement from LMC out of KS City. They probably sell 100+ each year and I am stuck with mess. Oh well. As an old dude, I can appreciate the thought you put into your rat-rod-truck. Hard to describe, but your are celebrating the parts and prices that only a true automotive enthusiast could appreciate. Few know how magnetos work much less point and condenser. Nicely done and others have noticed. Remind me of the go-cart that came to our farm by cousins. A knitted rope wound on a pulley and open spring steel to flip to touch the spark plug for kill. I like the chain & sprockets used on the parking brake. It screams look at me for a minute to figure out how it works. They have “Trashing Bee’s” that show off huge steam driven monsters with 400 lb flywheels and hundreds show up for these week long events. It is like a kid in a candy shop as every moving part could kill you or pull your arm off in mid sentence. Held in summer in KS & Iowa. They are cool! Best of luck. DK, Omaha, NE.
Karl is on point with this one, but I can't help but point one thing out... When we get our i-car cert., they teach us about positive and negative fitment. As in, the fender to the door and the door to the quarter should all stick out a tiny bit to allow wind to flow over all panels and reduce wind noise in the vehicle at higher speeds. That's all. I'll shut up now.
A body shop would use a dent puller There are many different kinds but a Uni spotter is pretty common you can look them up. Otherwise you would be separating the panel fixing it and reinstalling it
This is the most frustrating thing in the world.. how many restorations have you seen that have a somewhat lifted bonnet on one side or a door that doesn’t shut.. but it has a new paint job so fixing it is going to be impossible.. answer.. too many!
If that’s not adjustable in the door hinges then there is only so much you can do with the door edge but there should be a little bit that can be massaged in with the door edge but this is a tricky and careful thing because you don’t want to see the inside panel through the outer skin
@@MakeItKustom I have it adjusted as much as I can at the striker and hinge. It lines up at the window and front fender but there is a section that is out from the rear quarter. I'm thinking I screwed up the dog leg repair or something is up with the door. Dude, I would love to send you a pic.
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You got that right. People buy aftermarket parts and think they’re bolt n go. I learned the hard way, they’re for skilled installers to instal and look good. I have learned a lot recently and things are looking way better. Much thanks to Channels like yours.
Very good - thanks so much for sharing what might seem like a basic bit of knowledge! For DIY people it's something that doesn't get shown on TV or RUclips.
Brother your skills shine! Love that you’re showing your work step by step. I’m learning new shit every time I watch one of your video’s . You a bad man!
Thanks Christopher I appreciate the feedback!
I agree totally
Grate demonstration on fixing uneven spaces with panels
A little tip. When aligned at factory, the rear end of the front piece should be some bit further out than the next piece behind the space between. This will prevent from windnoices. How much the "further out" depends on how wide the crack. A friend of mine worked at Volvo in Gothenburg painting. Before paint they checked the alignment. The space between panels and doors before were mostly quite accurate, but the "output" (lay down a ruler between the parts and one should be in air) on the backend of the fenders towards the doors not always... If even, it will occur a swirl in the crack between and this vibrates the panel in rear of it.
Note that this output measures differ depending on where on a car. The air is passing the body slower when its in the back due to all whirls building requiring less and less "out" Good luck!
Thanks for that interesting tip!
You certainly are the MAN!
What great understanding and patience!
Very clear explanation and demonstration
Mike
Thanks for the feedback mike!
Everything you say in your videos makes sense. An amateur like me understand perfectly thanks to your way of explaining stuff. This is how they should teach metal work everywhere. 👌 🌟
Thanks so much for your feedback!
Thank you for this TIP. It is an issue , that I had never seen addressed on any metal working / body work forum. I appreciate your expertise & abilities.
Stay Real.
Rick
Thanks Rick I am also curious why it’s not more widely covered in fact until very recently I did not think that this was how bodies were lined up. When I had my eureka moment I thought man I bet a lot of people could benefit from this
So happy I found your channel.
I use my slapper for a dolley often. Slappers have many jobs. Great video.
Holy smokes, this is gold---the doors on my '48 DeSoto are completely misaligned. Some jackalope "fixed" the rh door misalignment by BENDING (smashing) the vertical edge of the door in, by at least 1/8 in. I was wondering how I'd go about fixing this. Thanks again for another super helpful video!
Great stuff. Working on a 67 mustang and almost ready to get the doors back in. This will be in my future!
Picked up another little diamond tip from you that I'll be using on my pickup, when I get to that point. Thanks again...
your in trouble for giving away the secrets.. LOL This is the first time I've ever seen a video on this. Great job. Keep it up.
Haha I have no problem in sharing what I’ve learned. Sharing is caring! I’m happy to help. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I watched this the 1st time on Instagram, but now I've watched it again on RUclips! And I don't even do bodywork!
Haha right on! Thanks for supporting! 👊👊👊
Great channel I've watched a bunch of your videos there is a lot of good info. People do need to be aware that doing this can sometimes cause a buckle at the end of the door. Another thing is don't be afraid to slice the panel next to it and but weld it in the right position. I'm sure you know this and it was not the right call for this job but sometimes it's required. I've done autobody since the late 80s. I've done a some chops, a rear wheel drive conversion swap, a sectioned car, a convertible conversion on a 40 Packard And a bunch of other stuff. Most of the cars I've cut were after the 60s so a lot of things are different to do than older ones.
this was the first time i had heard about this. great explanation and how to. realy enjoying your videos. entertaining and educational thanks!
Thanks so much! I’m glad that you found value in the video!
First time I’ve seen it done. 👍
That's awesome!
spot on and much the same principle as still done in car plants all over the world. In some plants a tool called the 'Saarlouis Hammer' is used to 'whack' the corners and other troublesome spots back into shape....if you hunt around, the name might give you a clue as to which major OEM came up with that...
Interesting tip this was a great learning experience. Thanks Karl
You’re so welcome!
Just join been watching you for few episodes. Your explanation is very clear very nice way to explain the characteristic of metal during formation and assembly. Great video thank 😊
I’m so glad you like it! Thank you very much cheers!
Thanks, you are a good teacher.
Great video. I'm doing a frame off on a 53 Chevy pickup. My first project on this level. Thanks.
Thanks! That sounds like an awesome project! Good luck with your build! You got this 👊🏼
More solid tips bro great work
Wow - seems so simple. This tip really opens my mind of what’s possible. 👍👍😎👍😎
That's wicked!! Glad it was helpful
3:37 I knew autobody guy every time he said he had to do a bump he ran to the bathroom. Now I know what he meant.
Excellent finesse-Thank you! ✅👍
Amazing and nice work, like always,
Crazy stuff brother.
Love it.
God bless.
Thanks so much man cheers!
Excellent tip
Fantastic brother
GOOD TIP...I WILL USE THIS FOR SURE...
Thanks man! Glad it was helpful!
Wow great trick, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
You’re very welcome glad you liked it! Cheers
Now THAT will come in handy! Thanks.
Some Bill glad to hear it!
I am getting ready to start working on my Camaro. I have notice the passenger’s side door is like this! THANK YOU for showing me how to fix this!!
You’re welcome Jim! Good luck with the repair cheers!
Great tip. Thank you.
Great job! So much better than bondo. So many car restore videos even Foose spread bondo over every square inch and block it flat for days.
Although all high end paint jobs get a complete coat of filler I do know exactly what you’re talking about one of the things I hate the most is seeing a car with obviously thick edges. It’s not necessary
Awesome video, very informative. Thank you
You’re so welcome Mike I’m glad you liked it! Thanks for being here cheers
Awesome stuff
You are a genius!!!
Awesome, always wondered how this was done!
Is it possible to, say, reduce the vertical gap between door skin and rear quarter. I just can't visualise how this would be possible without welding on additional material?
🍻 from Australia
In many cases if the door gap is too wide for your liking and many people do this, add material to the edge of the door. All cars that you see with really tight super crisp door gaps have had this done
Wow, great Job👌
Thanks man!
Awesome tips!
Glad you like them!
Nice early hardtail z50!
Awesome tips Thanks
You’re most welcome thank you!
nice work. love your videos. too bad that many cars would be caked with 1/4" worth of bondo lol
im doing a 70 k5 Blazer thanks man!
Welcome!!!
Nice work
Thanks!
another great tip thx
You’re welcome and thank you very much for being here!
Cool build. You both get free tattoos for life. Nice job for both of you.
Just an FYI note: when laying up sheet goods, you can place dowels between items that you are glueing. Position things the way you want them and one by one you can slide out the dowels. Voila.
Ps. Nice tip about the silicone/bronze.
Pps. Is that a BC lilt (accent) that I hear?
Wow you were good with your accent identification! Yes we are from BC! Thank you very much for the tips cheers Andrew!
@@MakeItKustom . When I was 18 (I'm 57 now) I spent the summer out in the boonies by Parson... 30 miles from Golden in BC. Certain words you use have "THAT" sound. You have some BC mannerisms too. I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested 🙂.
Keep on keeping on. And to Christina, thank you. Karl is great BUT remember, he might be the head but you are the neck. Nothing can happen without you.
Looks good 👍
Thanks Freddie!
Having ALOT of fitment issues on a 1972 Blazer with all new sheetmetal, rocker boxes, rockers, doors, floors. Bolt togther parts arent lining up.... any tips?
Do you have a video of a quarter panel and trunk lid fitting
Thanks bro
What can be done to fix a door that is sticking out too much? Like an 1/8th inch but the door hasnt been replaced. Is there a way to adjust that outside edge without hammering? Striker isn’t adjustable. Already tried that.
If you were ever in the military you will know what this is but you got to love those BCGs (Birth Control Glasses) like the ones issued to every private in Basic Training LOL
HAHA we just call them 80s Perv glasses.
I am wondering if I can do this to my 72 k5 without damaging the paint?
1969 Chevrolet Panel I have a 3/8" gap at the bottom between the door and the front fender (Drivers Side)....up top only 1/8". I've moved the fender, & the door with minimal success, could I slot out the lower hinge to move the door forward some more? The threaded block in the pillar is moving but just not as far as I'd like it to??? Help The passenger side is perfect.
If you push it too far, can you knock it back using the same method? And is there a risk of damaging the paint if so?
You can move it around quite a bit without damaging paint. It’s crazy to see what the PDR guys can do. (Paint less dent repair)
How do you do it the opposite way, where you have to move the skin inwards?
I was going to ask this also ! !
Glad you did.
@Makeitcustom - wish I would have found this video last weekend. I gave up on my door while putting a vehicle all back together. I'm going to try the reverse method for moving it inwards.
Thanks
No need to worry... Just the tip and only for a second...😇
So what do you do when the door over exceeds the body frame it seems yours was the opposite
My truck just came back from the body shop. The front grill, lights, bumper, and left fender were replaced. The problem I noticed the next day is the bumper is aligned flush to the outside of the fender flare on the right side but on the left it looks like they aligned it flush with the fender then put the flare on. It looks odd because it is in about a half inch more on the left side than the right. Is there a way to adjust this? Or not?
No one would be able to accurately answer without looking at it. Your best bet is to take it back to the shop.
So the outer skin is just folded over the inner skin, then seam sealer? No welds? I have never skinned a door, work on hundreds as a tech. I have thick metal skin on my 1967 C10 and trying to fix panel gaps. I was lucky as the truck had very little rust and all of it was on the drivers side.
I got a tough one though. The tailgate was destroyed so I got a GM certified (Not to fit) tailgate from a KC company, put it on and found later, the passengers side is 3/16” thicker on the top 7-8”. So it stick out, go inside the tail light pocket in the bed, it looks like new. I think it will have to split the top of the bedside inside the tail light pocket where the tailgate jamb is. Move it out to be flush then weld in a splice. Not only is this leave no room for bodywork, filler or a way to make it flat and look right, but makes me mad to mess up a clean in-damaged area. The bedside wraps around and spot welded with the tail light pocket stamped in it. I see no way to make the top of the tailgate thinner. Geeesh!
This truck is for me. A daily driver that came here by my son, who wanted to pull at trailer to mow yards. I did engine stuff, electrical and welding. He was trying to do body work. I bought a lot of parts, then he gave up, give me the truck & walked away! At 13, I spent $150 for a 1965 C10 Apache. So first and last very close. 38+ years in a shop, 12 year on the family farm, but between elbows and back, forced into retirement. Thanks for the videos and info. ASE Master since 1978 - Retired
Wow man the fitment of aftermarket panels never ceases to amaze me at how inconsistent they are! Sounds like you have a good idea on how to tackle the misalignment. Always a shame to have to cut up new parts but sometimes it’s the only way. Yes some outer skins are just folded around and not welded but not all. I have seen some that are spot welded into place as well. It’s best to clean them off and you will be able to visually see whether or not it is spot welded
It truly is a crying shame to cut a perfect tail light pocket to fit the tailgate. Especially paying a lot plus shipping. I wouldn’t have bought it but for the “GM Certied” stamping advertisement from LMC out of KS City. They probably sell 100+ each year and I am stuck with mess. Oh well.
As an old dude, I can appreciate the thought you put into your rat-rod-truck. Hard to describe, but your are celebrating the parts and prices that only a true automotive enthusiast could appreciate. Few know how magnetos work much less point and condenser. Nicely done and others have noticed. Remind me of the go-cart that came to our farm by cousins. A knitted rope wound on a pulley and open spring steel to flip to touch the spark plug for kill. I like the chain & sprockets used on the parking brake. It screams look at me for a minute to figure out how it works. They have “Trashing Bee’s” that show off huge steam driven monsters with 400 lb flywheels and hundreds show up for these week long events. It is like a kid in a candy shop as every moving part could kill you or pull your arm off in mid sentence. Held in summer in KS & Iowa. They are cool! Best of luck. DK, Omaha, NE.
Nice!
Thanks!
What about the front door to fender gap? The tougher ones 😢
Karl is on point with this one, but I can't help but point one thing out... When we get our i-car cert., they teach us about positive and negative fitment. As in, the fender to the door and the door to the quarter should all stick out a tiny bit to allow wind to flow over all panels and reduce wind noise in the vehicle at higher speeds. That's all. I'll shut up now.
I have a ripple dent about the size of two silver dollars in my 2013 GMC on the left rear panel. Since it is two layers , how do I repair it ?
A body shop would use a dent puller There are many different kinds but a Uni spotter is pretty common you can look them up. Otherwise you would be separating the panel fixing it and reinstalling it
Fantastic tip, you make it look too easy though......
It is a simple task if you know what you’re looking for!
Do we get to see more of the blazer
Sorry man no more Jimmy in the shop
This is the most frustrating thing in the world.. how many restorations have you seen that have a somewhat lifted bonnet on one side or a door that doesn’t shut.. but it has a new paint job so fixing it is going to be impossible.. answer.. too many!
👍👍👍
🙏🙏🙏
👍
Small block wood inside slow presure easy
Nice 1k 👍s up
Apparently Ford forgot to do that on my SuperDuty as the stock panels look Horrible on my new truck.
What about when door sticks out too much. I.e the opposite of your problem?
If that’s not adjustable in the door hinges then there is only so much you can do with the door edge but there should be a little bit that can be massaged in with the door edge but this is a tricky and careful thing because you don’t want to see the inside panel through the outer skin
@@MakeItKustom i do fitment adjustments a bit different. In both cases i would play with the striker that the door latches to
👍👊
Thanks Michael 🤙
Good Tip But You Didn't Show Fender Side!!
I have a door gap that needs to go the other way. The door is stick out past the quarter panel.
That’s a door adjustment for sure
@@MakeItKustom I have it adjusted as much as I can at the striker and hinge. It lines up at the window and front fender but there is a section that is out from the rear quarter. I'm thinking I screwed up the dog leg repair or something is up with the door. Dude, I would love to send you a pic.
Just a tip
Short and usefull! Thx a lot ... greatings from Germany
BR
... Insta: 4x4mech
Awesome! Greetings!
Just the tip ha ha ha ha ha hahaha
Ha ha Ha ha ha
Great tip, thank you
Good info! Thanks