funny thing ,when I started body repair 45 years ago the first thing we learned was NO filler on an edge. weld it up and metal shape it. on this jag the hood can be adjusted back and the single thickness metal hood can be filled to 4 mm gap
I'm of the same opinion. If you have no metal skills... use lead. If you have no lead skills ...use bodyfiller! I have always felt that companies like Eastwood are responsible for a lower standard in autobody/painting quality, because they make it possible for any idiot to produce crap , but believe they are doing nice work.
I have been an autobody man and painter for over 30 years. I never use bondo on things like that. I still use old school leading, if the panels don't fit properly, I always check all adjustments first, then fit the body panels and metal work them to fix. Then and only then would I used leading to resurface the two body panels grind it as he used his razor blade.
As an Aussie I find it amusing to hear a guy in Tennessee talk in millimetres and call a hood a bonnet. We call them bonnets and most Americans insist they are hoods lol.
+charlietow its still the same thing. A brit would call the hood of a cadillac a bonnet. It doesn't suddenly become one or the other, its just what someone calls it depending on where they are. I think he uses millimeters because regardless of Americans using feet and inches for most everyday things, its impractical when talking the tiny panel gaps.
Ian Mcdowell I know it's still the same thing, It's like tbirdsteve said, it's kind of odd hearing a guy in America using the term bonnet. But that is how a lot of Americans refer to the hood of a Euro, so as an American gear head it's not a surprise to me. Nor is the use of millimeters. That's used by every body guy I know, when talking panel gaps, because like you said, it's more practical.
+rock dawg Yeah no kidding! I guess in this world we have a situation where you have banks with no money, bald guys with toupees, and women with fake everything...so I guess fake bodywork shouldn't be a surprise! Not for me though...I mean the toupee! LOL!
hey i'm old school body dawg we didn't have all this new stuff thats out now we had to do this by hand making gaps look normal and we didn't have the supper tools like now yesh
+Ian Mcdowell Ian you can also use drywall patch kits to fill minor holes, these can be obtained at hardware stores or home depot. Much cheaper that auto body supply stores. Also the brand "Kilz" wall primer works well on automotive applications. Try it, a fraction of the cost of normal auto body primers!
If your gaps aren't almost perfect you are really asking for trouble using this method. Too much filler on a door or hood edge is eventually going to crack causing a big headache later on. Maybe it would be ok on a show car but I still wouldn't want to cut corners like this after investing a lot of money in a project. This would be a very bad idea on a daily or weekend cruiser you plan on driving.
Lets not loose sight of what the object of the exercise is. There are other methods of doing this but this way is practical and effective. Also the car in question is not an everyday road car its simply a show car and is unlikely to be exposed to any harsh conditions. I used to think this about filler edges but on reflection its not so much of an issue.
An E-Type is one of the hardest cars to get a proper panel gap on- SO many variables and variations in the assembly and places to go wrong. Sculpting the edges like this is not the answer unless it's just a "driver" and not a show car. The way the bonnet is assembled, it would be obvious it's just sculpted- and would be ripped apart in judging. My E-Type was done improperly- much like what this guy is doing. It lasted 15 years, now the filler has all got to come out and where they went cheap like this approach has to be done over. Had it been done right, I wouldn't have to do it over at great expense.
i do it very similar to the way you do it but i am going to try the foam tape. love that polyester primer. i use a different brand but you are right . no shrink
After laying filler smoothly over the gap, how does he know the laser straight line to follow with his blade? If the panel edge is a little wavy, wouldn't his razor follow that and make a consistent, but wavy, gap?
Can anyone discuss how to metal work belt lines that don’t align? Meaning a fender body line is higher than the door but the test of the body lines are lined-up fine... any tips are greatly appreciated!!
That particular filler he is using must be really good as most fillers seem to harden ALOT faster and will not let you work it for as long as he just did on that body seam.
It's the way many in the industry are doing it now. These products are becoming more powerful, durable, and workable. Cuts down on labor time which both sides benefit from. I used to be a skeptic myself, but I've seen some finished examples in person, and the results are great, plus it lasts. Of course, there is some crap stuff out there, and there is a right way and wrong way to apply it and work it, but it's revolutionized the industry for sure.
That is not quality work that is lame ass crap work .... That is the quality that shops put out these days ...... sure it looks nice when you pick it up but then all the plastics shrink and boom now it looks like doggy doo and is been to long to sue the f out of them No quality craftsmen left anymore only bone heads chasing the green
The panels are never this clean from the factory. Restoration is about correcting the imperfections and building the car to the owner's satisfaction, it's not about making the car 110% metal. If you want an original car that has never been touched after leaving the factory, don't buy a restored vehicle. Also, body filler is not plastic or metal.
Hey Guys, I am in the process of doing my restoration where its down to bear metal. The question is, when I finish welding a portion of the car, what is the next step? Do I epoxy prime and body filler or body filler and then epoxy prime etc. Can you guide me through thee steps?
1. Eastwood Epoxy Primer 2. Eastwood Contour Body Filler 3. Eastwood 2K Urethane Primer Surfacer or Eastwood Contour Polyester Primer-Surfacer. To further discuss your project in detail, you can also contact an Eastwood Tech at 866.759.2131.
Do not alter hardener ratio to compensate for temperature conditions. Under-hardening results in the filler or glaze never achieving the full physical properties. This results in poor adhesion, strength and durability. Over-hardening may result in residual hardener on the sanded surface, which could react with primers and top coats. Hardener to resin ratio is NOT a variable.
The first kid that presses his tumb against the seam will ruin your 20k investment doing it this way lol. I abandoned using bondo for the most part years ago. It shrinks, cracks, chips to easily. I would use steel, fiberglass filler and a polyester filler. Much more durable, can handle hits, vibrations and the ocassional tree branches.
+Chris Silvey Did you watch teh video at all ? Duraglass, the product he used to fill the gap IS what you described as "fiberglass filler". The 2nd product he uses, to smooth the surface IS a polyester filler.
I rework my seem gap after watching this video, excelent tips. Here is something funny though I ask one latino dude if my prime car(grey) if it look good. He said no doesnt look good it's not black. Well duh man its prime and not paint black to match yet.
bond-o buggies is what they build just to lazy to do real body work!if you do real body work it holds up better for every day use. I should of took a pottery class instead of autobody to learn from this guy?
42yrs in the trade and 15yrs exclusively doing restorations and this is the worst example of bodywork I have ever seen, should be ashamed I would sack anyone who even tried this. Slam the bonnet or a small chip and this would explode
I have been and still a metal man after 50 years, i am aussie by the way and if we worked this way we would end up with a sore arse. You guys are nothing but plasterers.
Pete Bush Pete,your are going to have to accept that these products are highly engineered and surpass the quality of the products of 40 years ago by light years if used correctly.You sound like a old amature.
I don't think he making a edge on the bonnet he's using the bonnet as the straight edge or tool. but the gap look good already for original stock with out bondo
If you desire a show quality painted product, this is a necessary and unavoidable process. Most of it will be sanded off and placed in an appropriate waste receptacle.
i agree, wtf is this, you set panel gaps by moving mounting points of the panel not spreading bondo...this doesnt fly at our shop, if your caught trying to do this youd be required to strip all that back off and fix it right....
Hi, I like the way you do the door gaps it makes a lot of sense. I just have a question, after you have cut down across the door gaps, are you going to flood the entire panel with filler again and block it down again or what do you do? Regards Conrad
Am I the only one who doesnt like to use body filler.I would much rather tig weld or tig braze filler in and use a disk to sand it flat. If its that warped or rusted patch panel or new repo piece . I hate body filler.
Yes I can see a skim coat of filler over the panels, but not on edges of doors or hoods. .. like the other gentleman had mentioned earlier, just looking for trouble down the road...
This seems great for a show car , but what about the driver ? Plastic filler seems dangerous on edges , I realize he used fiberglass filler but then plastic over that , thoughts ?
Great vid - tech's on point - but the sub-titles are 2 football fields behind the Accent. :-) I love the accent - but the subtitle AI don't. :-) "relaxed missile" is a high point. :-) Deaf Folk will be going "WTF???"
Not a bad way but if I did that with some of my customers they would shoot me. Bit of lead solder to make up the difference and just tough it out with the files and stuff. Then just tidy it up with some stopper or filler. Also allow fro the fact that you are going to loose close to a mm of that gap by the time you have primed and painted it. Us repairers rely on pug to much these days.
This must be some amazing body filler(not). If it doesnt crack out in a year or less I'd be amazed, Didn't even watch the whole video cause thats not how to fix gaps. Try tacking the outside of the panel that has too much of a gap and then stitch welding between them. You would than use a prep tool and grind it to the right shape. Dont get the metal too hot or itll warp. You can cool it with air or wet towel.
MisterFuturtastic I didn't even see him put hardener in the filler. I found some videos on here about using lead. Its toxic so I can't find anyone that does it.
James Roberson Hey obviously used hardener or the shit wouldn't have hardened. Just saved you some watching time by not showing it being this is not a "how to mix filler" video
+James Roberson Lead Body work is a misnomer anyway. It's not straight plumber's lead, It's an alloy of lead, zinc and tin. the work itself is not hazardous. People stopped doing it because it's a pain in teh ass and it involves otehr materials and techniques that are not compatible with today's paints. Like tinning the surface and wiping an oil soaked rag on teh body. Just not a clean way to get results.
mcinkyt Right. Jag-u-er is the correct pronunciation. But why would a ‘50s truck have a 5 mm gap instead of 3/16”? We weren’t using metric lengths back then.
This is good for panel gaps that are very good in the first place, however, that's not always the case. My 59 Chevy truck doors would make you cringe. Just how do you handle that? You can't beat them into place...your stuck. If you see most vintage trucks, the door gaps are absolutely the worst. I like this video, and the neat little cutter, but it just wouldn't work in my case, that is of course, if you wast a quarter inch of filler on the edges.
The reason he is using filler for the gaps is because its EASIER than working metal. Not the same, not better but easier, that's it. If someone is paying 10s of thousands of dollars for body work/paint it's not to much to ask that your metal edges are metal....Add metal material and flap it... If its only "2mm" that is literally a mig welder bead...It ain't that hard..
This method will not work on a XKe type. Soon as engine and gearbox are in position the added weight on mounting frames will alter ALL the bonnet shut lines and of course using filler on a edge is a complete no no. Just do the job properly.....
If you have no metal skills...use lead. If you have no lead skills...use bodyfiller! This in my opinion is the poorest way to get gaps...and like most of these overdone SEMA vehicles it isn't going to stay good for very long unless the vehicle stays in an atmospherically controlled facility. Not only that, each time you open and close a moveable panel you incur wear on the hinges and guess what...your panel alignment will change. So then what, you have to re-fill the edges to maintain your gap???
+Formula Firebird ...No I want a METAL edge! Metal NOT plastic . Pick and file with a hammer and dolly and a bodyfile. That way when gaps do change you never have an edge crack and fall off...you just adjust the panel back to good alignment. This guy spends WAYYYY too much time sanding and shaping. Three different fillers, then primer, then clearcoat sand sand sand ! Why not do the metal work properly, put three medium coats of primer on, paint the vehicle. And by the way good painters don't ever sand and polish clearcoat...they learn how to use temperature in the booth to prolong flow times.
+mark krul This video is all about a metal 'EDGE" and I agree on all the fillers, however there is paint and primer that needs to flex with temp. Nailing the very edge is easy enough, but the flat door surface near the repair may need some. Its all just make up, and getting it to stay on a door thats slammed is the key! These cars from Sema dont get driven. Pretty obvious when Hagerty or Grundy will insure them for cheap.. they are trailer queens...
No skillz just fill er with plastic Some time back I was smacked in the side by an idiot and the repair shop told me they would fix it right by replacing the metal that was crushed ( the door post on drivers side at the back edge of the door was crushed accordion style ) The day I brought it in they said they were going to pull out the metal then use a polymer metal finishing compound (bondo) I told then get f'd ..... Once the metal is Bent it is weak and that is unacceptable unsafe and not what my insurance is for .... insurance is to return you to the place you wereb4 the loss not cheap lazy shoddy workmanship Back in the day of true workmanship they were called lead sleds for a reason .... lead is still available and works great just don't breath the vapors
You are only using the foam as a bridge to cross the panel gap after the metal work. You are only skimming the surface from one panel to the other if you metal work is good the skim is minimal it will help with the shrinkage you will get from your high build primer due to the reducer out gas
I'm from the Northeast where Americans don't have an accent. I have to wrack my brain to figure out what this southerner is saying. Having sub titles utterly Wrong is more confusing than his accent.
Beauregard Electric y'all definitely have an accent. Just like Brits and Aussies. Just cuz you only hear your accent all the time doesn't mean you don't have one.
i don't know that it is so much body filler. You need to spread out your filler sometimes over a whole panel to get these old cars straight. That doesn't mean there is a lot of filler in them.
Body filler has no sytrength and does not make good edges which are easily damaged. Now if never used on the road and only shown then this will work for apperence only. Never a pratical solution on any driven or daily use auto.
all you guys bitching that it should be metal worked blah blah blah for 2 millimetres of fibreglass resin that is a permanent repair it'll never crack or fall off lol
It isn't like they build entire car bodies out of fiberglass or anything. Imagine that. Whole body made of fiberglass it would have to instantly explode just from sitting there!
funny thing ,when I started body repair 45 years ago the first thing we learned was NO filler on an edge. weld it up and metal shape it. on this jag the hood can be adjusted back and the single thickness metal hood can be filled to 4 mm gap
I'm of the same opinion. If you have no metal skills... use lead. If you have no lead skills ...use bodyfiller! I have always felt that companies like Eastwood are responsible for a lower standard in autobody/painting quality, because they make it possible for any idiot to produce crap , but believe they are doing nice work.
+Michael thomas same here been doing bodywork and painting for 40 yrs-never use filler on edges
Awesome.... great tips. Most of these videos leave more unanswered questions than answers.... Awesome. Thanks for making this video.
I've never seen such a smoothly filled filler. Bravo maestro
I have been an autobody man and painter for over 30 years. I never use bondo on things like that. I still use old school leading, if the panels don't fit properly, I always check all adjustments first, then fit the body panels and metal work them to fix. Then and only then would I used leading to resurface the two body panels grind it as he used his razor blade.
What’re you gonna do about the cancer you’ll develop in the next few years from the lead?
nice work.. been there..they use to call Bondo Man.i could float it out .just like dry wall mud..
.
As an Aussie I find it amusing to hear a guy in Tennessee talk in millimetres and call a hood a bonnet. We call them bonnets and most Americans insist they are hoods lol.
+tbirdsteve1 It's because he's talking about a European car.
+charlietow its still the same thing. A brit would call the hood of a cadillac a bonnet. It doesn't suddenly become one or the other, its just what someone calls it depending on where they are.
I think he uses millimeters because regardless of Americans using feet and inches for most everyday things, its impractical when talking the tiny panel gaps.
Ian Mcdowell I know it's still the same thing, It's like tbirdsteve said, it's kind of odd hearing a guy in America using the term bonnet. But that is how a lot of Americans refer to the hood of a Euro, so as an American gear head it's not a surprise to me. Nor is the use of millimeters. That's used by every body guy I know, when talking panel gaps, because like you said, it's more practical.
tbirdsteve1 they are hoods
Mustang Sally in England where we speak English it’s a bonnet, you can bastardize our language all you want but it’s still a bonnet.
totally amazing have not seen anything like this all my years in a body shop we never did it this way
+rock dawg Yeah no kidding! I guess in this world we have a situation where you have banks with no money, bald guys with toupees, and women with fake everything...so I guess fake bodywork shouldn't be a surprise! Not for me though...I mean the toupee! LOL!
hey i'm old school body dawg we didn't have all this new stuff thats out now we had to do this by hand making gaps look normal and we didn't have the supper tools like now yesh
What brand of masking foam tape did you use and can you provide a link or the size recommended
Two more sprayable primers go on top. It's very durable. I've used this method several times, no cracked edges.
I use plaster of paris or fix-all, and in small areas spackle it's a lot cheaper than the products shown here.
+Bobby John spackle is for fucking drywall your cars are a mess...
+Ian Mcdowell Ian you can also use drywall patch kits to fill minor holes, these can be obtained at hardware stores or home depot. Much cheaper that auto body supply stores. Also the brand "Kilz" wall primer works well on automotive applications. Try it, a fraction of the cost of normal auto body primers!
i hope your not using that crap on metal, stop being ahacker and learn to do shit the right way.....
If your gaps aren't almost perfect you are really asking for trouble using this method. Too much filler on a door or hood edge is eventually going to crack causing a big headache later on.
Maybe it would be ok on a show car but I still wouldn't want to cut corners like this after investing a lot of money in a project. This would be a very bad idea on a daily or weekend cruiser you plan on driving.
Yea, but your not saying how to do it, your just how not to. How does that help?
he didnt say how to because TC explained in the video that you could do it by cuttign off and welding in metal.
Lets not loose sight of what the object of the exercise is. There are other methods of doing this but this way is practical and effective. Also the car in question is not an everyday road car its simply a show car and is unlikely to be exposed to any harsh conditions. I used to think this about filler edges but on reflection its not so much of an issue.
You're absolutely correct. Edges should be built up with a weld.
Agreed. It's painful to watch him doing this to an E Type.
Great Tip...Thanks For Sharing!
An E-Type is one of the hardest cars to get a proper panel gap on- SO many variables and variations in the assembly and places to go wrong.
Sculpting the edges like this is not the answer unless it's just a "driver" and not a show car. The way the bonnet is assembled, it would be obvious it's just sculpted- and would be ripped apart in judging.
My E-Type was done improperly- much like what this guy is doing. It lasted 15 years, now the filler has all got to come out and where they went cheap like this approach has to be done over. Had it been done right, I wouldn't have to do it over at great expense.
Skrutinizr a factory correct E-type shouldn't have perfect gaps.
Weld , braze, and lead on edges only.
Or just fiberglass it and it’ll be just as nice and 1/8 of the time
i do it very similar to the way you do it but i am going to try the foam tape. love that polyester primer. i use a different brand but you are right . no shrink
After laying filler smoothly over the gap, how does he know the laser straight line to follow with his blade? If the panel edge is a little wavy, wouldn't his razor follow that and make a consistent, but wavy, gap?
Thought exactly the same. How did he blade it that straight?
Thought the same thing.
Slicker than a minners hooter! Great skill!
This method is meant for when you have near perfect gaps to begin with and you need to just get that final sharpness. I get it.
That's good job I'll have to try that next time I get a project. How's that filler to work with iv bought stuff from places like Napa and it seems oka
can you guys do a video on tucking a bumper in closer to the body. I'm trying to figure out how to do it to an el camino
Can anyone discuss how to metal work belt lines that don’t align? Meaning a fender body line is higher than the door but the test of the body lines are lined-up fine... any tips are greatly appreciated!!
That particular filler he is using must be really good as most fillers seem to harden ALOT faster and will not let you work it for as long as he just did on that body seam.
+FreeeeBeer Use less hardener is all.
Thanks! I will use this trick on my car. The door gaps are just wrong and there is nothing to adjust on the door.
What kinda foam tape are you using?
How would this process work on fiberglass panels? I suppose you would use bondo with fibers and this process? I want it to last!
Penelope Pitstops brother? Good tips thanks!
But how do you fix HUGE gaps at door opening? So bad it's half inch away from striker?
eh.... i always herd that you don't finish edges with body filler? I'm confused...
He said he was using "poly glass" filler that is very very strong/durable. So I think this is a different kind of bondo that might be more acceptable.
It's the way many in the industry are doing it now. These products are becoming more powerful, durable, and workable. Cuts down on labor time which both sides benefit from. I used to be a skeptic myself, but I've seen some finished examples in person, and the results are great, plus it lasts. Of course, there is some crap stuff out there, and there is a right way and wrong way to apply it and work it, but it's revolutionized the industry for sure.
Your right
No one is a body man anymore they all use plastic fillers YUK CRAP LAZY
Nothin like a lil lead to do it right f the epa
That is not quality work that is lame ass crap work .... That is the quality that shops put out these days ...... sure it looks nice when you pick it up but then all the plastics shrink and boom now it looks like doggy doo and is been to long to sue the f out of them
No quality craftsmen left anymore only bone heads chasing the green
i wonder if the owner knows his 80k+ car is loaded up that that shit. such a bad habbit to teach peope. no pride in his work
Or how to load up a classic masterpiece with plastic.
It wouldn’t look like a masterpiece without that plastic
The panels are never this clean from the factory. Restoration is about correcting the imperfections and building the car to the owner's satisfaction, it's not about making the car 110% metal. If you want an original car that has never been touched after leaving the factory, don't buy a restored vehicle. Also, body filler is not plastic or metal.
Here comes Karen
"Back wipe it" That dudes a pro.
TC Penick does some great work!!..thanks for sharing this great tip
Hey Guys, I am in the process of doing my restoration where its down to bear metal. The question is, when I finish welding a portion of the car, what is the next step? Do I epoxy prime and body filler or body filler and then epoxy prime etc. Can you guide me through thee steps?
1. Eastwood Epoxy Primer 2. Eastwood Contour Body Filler 3. Eastwood 2K Urethane Primer Surfacer or Eastwood Contour Polyester Primer-Surfacer. To further discuss your project in detail, you can also contact an Eastwood Tech at 866.759.2131.
What kinda foam tape is that?
www.eastwood.com/soft-edge-foam-tape-3-4-inc-x-131-ft.html
Jag wire? What's that?
What is a jagwaar ?
Do not alter hardener ratio to compensate for temperature conditions. Under-hardening
results in the filler or glaze never achieving the full physical properties. This results in
poor adhesion, strength and durability. Over-hardening may result in residual hardener on the sanded surface, which could react with primers and top coats.
Hardener to resin ratio is NOT a variable.
Dan Henderson Yeah.. and you need to use a scale for measurements. "1 strip over a big ball of filler" that is advertised on youtube videos is crap.
It does work no breakage , also there's a fiberglass method.
Don;t forget to Subscribe. Are YOU an Eastwood Guy?
That jag xk has a flip front end ...Whats gonna happen after they close the bonnet a few times .CRACK .that what will happen with all that filler
Frank Fitzpatrick E Type.
this job is called restauration??
The first kid that presses his tumb against the seam will ruin your 20k investment doing it this way lol. I abandoned using bondo for the most part years ago. It shrinks, cracks, chips to easily.
I would use steel, fiberglass filler and a polyester filler. Much more durable, can handle hits, vibrations and the ocassional tree branches.
+Chris Silvey Did you watch teh video at all ? Duraglass, the product he used to fill the gap IS what you described as "fiberglass filler".
The 2nd product he uses, to smooth the surface IS a polyester filler.
I rework my seem gap after watching this video, excelent tips. Here is something funny though I ask one latino dude if my prime car(grey) if it look good. He said no doesnt look good it's not black. Well duh man its prime and not paint black to match yet.
How do I get perfect gaps on a fiberglass corvette? Bondo,
would not hold up.
Ed Papp sarcasm right? He just explained what to use.
bond-o buggies is what they build just to lazy to do real body work!if you do real body work it holds up better for every day use. I should of took a pottery class instead of autobody to learn from this guy?
+Tiger Enos Yea, these yank shows are all the same, welding up square tube shapes with no gusseting, and filling everything with bog!
wheres your award winning paint jobs Tiger Enos?
42yrs in the trade and 15yrs exclusively doing restorations and this is the worst example of bodywork I have ever seen, should be ashamed I would sack anyone who even tried this. Slam the bonnet or a small chip and this would explode
I have been and still a metal man after 50 years, i am aussie by the way and if we worked this way we would end up with a sore arse.
You guys are nothing but plasterers.
Pete Bush
Pete,your are going to have to accept that these products are highly engineered and surpass the quality of the products of 40 years ago by light years if used correctly.You sound like a old amature.
Pete Bush I wouldn't let these guys touch my everyday driver.
Don8456
If ya don't spread lead it ain't metalwork.
I don't think he making a edge on the bonnet he's using the bonnet as the straight edge or tool. but the gap look good already for original stock with out bondo
Great video.
Thanks!
If you desire a show quality painted product, this is a necessary and unavoidable process. Most of it will be sanded off and placed in an appropriate waste receptacle.
Does east wood hire people from foreign country
TC's an Eastwood Guy. Are YOU? Dirty Harry Welder Dream - Stop Dreaming & Get A MIG Welder - Are You An Eastwood Guy?
Eastwood Company I prefer brazing or welding than practicing pottery, so no.
Nice tip thank you very much!
were can i buy Eastwood products in Europe?
www.eastwood.com/distributor_intl
WTF i work at a bodyshop and i would get fired if i did that kind of shit!
i agree, wtf is this, you set panel gaps by moving mounting points of the panel not spreading bondo...this doesnt fly at our shop, if your caught trying to do this youd be required to strip all that back off and fix it right....
Where’s your body shops award winning paint jobs?
Awesome man!
out of curiousity, how much does it cost to get something like this done?
i dont know, but i say its always better to do it yourself. unless you got something preventing you from doing so.
Hi, I like the way you do the door gaps it makes a lot of sense. I just have a question, after you have cut down across the door gaps, are you going to flood the entire panel with filler again and block it down again or what do you do? Regards Conrad
Am I the only one who doesnt like to use body filler.I would much rather tig weld or tig braze filler in and use a disk to sand it flat. If its that warped or rusted patch panel or new repo piece .
I hate body filler.
video:turning an e type to b type. b as in bondo
Bradley Fortner B is for Bondo
oh yeah just load up a e-type with fuckn bondo. jesus does metal finish not mean anything anymore
Taylor Polglase The most expensive restorations in the world have poly filler applied in skim coats.
Dan Henderson Porsches are worth $1000s more when done with lead but even then the smooth outer skin can be Bondo.
Yes I can see a skim coat of filler over the panels, but not on edges of doors or hoods. .. like the other gentleman had mentioned earlier, just looking for trouble down the road...
This seems great for a show car , but what about the driver ? Plastic filler seems dangerous on edges , I realize he used fiberglass filler but then plastic over that , thoughts ?
its a skim coat. Will last a lifetime. Fillers have a bad name from back yard jobs where they use as the repair and not for its intended purpose.
Great job
Great vid - tech's on point - but the sub-titles are 2 football fields behind the Accent. :-) I love the accent - but the subtitle AI don't. :-) "relaxed missile" is a high point. :-) Deaf Folk will be going "WTF???"
Thanks for the tip
Looks great
Not a bad way but if I did that with some of my customers they would shoot me. Bit of lead solder to make up the difference and just tough it out with the files and stuff. Then just tidy it up with some stopper or filler. Also allow fro the fact that you are going to loose close to a mm of that gap by the time you have primed and painted it. Us repairers rely on pug to much these days.
Fantastic trick \ :)
this method can apply to other areas as well, such as movie effects props... nice :)
As stated this might be acceptable for a podium car....not for a daily driver
This must be some amazing body filler(not). If it doesnt crack out in a year or less I'd be amazed, Didn't even watch the whole video cause thats not how to fix gaps. Try tacking the outside of the panel that has too much of a gap and then stitch welding between them. You would than use a prep tool and grind it to the right shape. Dont get the metal too hot or itll warp. You can cool it with air or wet towel.
What about lead? I see some body repair guys use that - can it be used on those edges like that?
MisterFuturtastic I didn't even see him put hardener in the filler. I found some videos on here about using lead. Its toxic so I can't find anyone that does it.
James Roberson Hey obviously used hardener or the shit wouldn't have hardened. Just saved you some watching time by not showing it being this is not a "how to mix filler" video
+James Roberson Lead Body work is a misnomer anyway. It's not straight plumber's lead, It's an alloy of lead, zinc and tin.
the work itself is not hazardous.
People stopped doing it because it's a pain in teh ass and it involves otehr materials and techniques that are not compatible with today's paints.
Like tinning the surface and wiping an oil soaked rag on teh body. Just not a clean way to get results.
Very handy tip but - ''JagWIRE''?
mcinkyt Right. Jag-u-er is the correct pronunciation. But why would a ‘50s truck have a 5 mm gap instead of 3/16”? We weren’t using metric lengths back then.
nice jagwire
Great line
This is good for panel gaps that are very good in the first place, however, that's not always the case. My 59 Chevy truck doors would make you cringe. Just how do you handle that? You can't beat them into place...your stuck. If you see most vintage trucks, the door gaps are absolutely the worst. I like this video, and the neat little cutter, but it just wouldn't work in my case, that is of course, if you wast a quarter inch of filler on the edges.
Yea I was looking at my 78 ford truck and though the same thing...filler ain't Gona help there
nope, gotta weld on the edge and do the metal work to correct those gaps, then once you're close enough you could probably get away with doing this
Drywaller turned body man
love the way he says jaguar 😂😂 gota love the american accent
Jagwire? I think you mean Jaguar.
Hate to see cars crafted out of filler :(
I am from Canada. it cold sometimes. I see you are wearing a hat is it cold in your shop?
lol, he called it' Bondo.
Wow we now know his seima truck was nothing but a sculpture.
faom tape = draught excluder!!
The reason he is using filler for the gaps is because its EASIER than working metal. Not the same, not better but easier, that's it. If someone is paying 10s of thousands of dollars for body work/paint it's not to much to ask that your metal edges are metal....Add metal material and flap it... If its only "2mm" that is literally a mig welder bead...It ain't that hard..
Astewood.
all I can hear is the birds in the background =p
This method will not work on a XKe type. Soon as engine and gearbox are in position the added weight on mounting frames will alter ALL the bonnet shut lines and of course using filler on a edge is a complete no no. Just do the job properly.....
If you have no metal skills...use lead. If you have no lead skills...use bodyfiller! This in my opinion is the poorest way to get gaps...and like most of these overdone SEMA vehicles it isn't going to stay good for very long unless the vehicle stays in an atmospherically controlled facility. Not only that, each time you open and close a moveable panel you incur wear on the hinges and guess what...your panel alignment will change. So then what, you have to re-fill the edges to maintain your gap???
mark krul so you want like 10 mm gaps?
+Formula Firebird ...No I want a METAL edge! Metal NOT plastic . Pick and file with a hammer and dolly and a bodyfile. That way when gaps do change you never have an edge crack and fall off...you just adjust the panel back to good alignment. This guy spends WAYYYY too much time sanding and shaping. Three different fillers, then primer, then clearcoat sand sand sand ! Why not do the metal work properly, put three medium coats of primer on, paint the vehicle. And by the way good painters don't ever sand and polish clearcoat...they learn how to use temperature in the booth to prolong flow times.
+mark krul This video is all about a metal 'EDGE" and I agree on all the fillers, however there is paint and primer that needs to flex with temp. Nailing the very edge is easy enough, but the flat door surface near the repair may need some. Its all just make up, and getting it to stay on a door thats slammed is the key! These cars from Sema dont get driven. Pretty obvious when Hagerty or Grundy will insure them for cheap.. they are trailer queens...
No skillz just fill er with plastic
Some time back I was smacked in the side by an idiot and the repair shop told me they would fix it right by replacing the metal that was crushed ( the door post on drivers side at the back edge of the door was crushed accordion style )
The day I brought it in they said they were going to pull out the metal then use a polymer metal finishing compound (bondo) I told then get f'd ..... Once the metal is Bent it is weak and that is unacceptable unsafe and not what my insurance is for .... insurance is to return you to the place you wereb4 the loss not cheap lazy shoddy workmanship
Back in the day of true workmanship they were called lead sleds for a reason .... lead is still available and works great just don't breath the vapors
You are only using the foam as a bridge to cross the panel gap after the metal work. You are only skimming the surface from one panel to the other if you metal work is good the skim is minimal it will help with the shrinkage you will get from your high build primer due to the reducer out gas
super Tipp
are my eyes going or is this incredibly blurry??
May as well have set up forms, backed a Redi Mix truck in, and start pouring. smh
I'm from the Northeast where Americans don't have an accent. I have to wrack my brain to figure out what this southerner is saying. Having sub titles utterly Wrong is more confusing than his accent.
Beauregard Electric y'all definitely have an accent. Just like Brits and Aussies. Just cuz you only hear your accent all the time doesn't mean you don't have one.
What language is he speaking?
so much body filler on that car..
i don't know that it is so much body filler. You need to spread out your filler sometimes over a whole panel to get these old cars straight. That doesn't mean there is a lot of filler in them.
+ moparmusclecar you are right ....
That's it fill it then put ya fingers in it lol
don't do that. it will crack for sure....
Not if you use fiberglass
mud it up
Body filler has no sytrength and does not make good edges which are easily damaged. Now if never used on the road and only shown then this will work for apperence only. Never a pratical solution on any driven or daily use auto.
wtf a paint paddle why do yanks change the names of everything
all you guys bitching that it should be metal worked blah blah blah for 2 millimetres of fibreglass resin that is a permanent repair it'll never crack or fall off lol
It isn't like they build entire car bodies out of fiberglass or anything. Imagine that. Whole body made of fiberglass it would have to instantly explode just from sitting there!
Made out of bondo
Body filler for panel gaps.... 🤣
even the captioning doesn't under stand southern mumble....