LOL. Obviously, I never had to replace a driveshaft on my trimmers/brush cutters, and hopefully, I'll never have to. I'll keep my fingers crossed on my new Echos. I want to thank you again for posting a video on troubleshooting and repairing the Shindaiwa 242 with an ignition coil that has spark, but the timing is off. Your's the only video I've encountered where you addressed this issue. I've replaced the cataltic muffler on my C242 with an older Shindaiwa F230 muffler, tuned the carby with the smallD special tuning tool, and the 2011 model year unit screams. It has over 400 hours and going strong. This weekend alone it got overs 6 hours of use going through 3-feet high dusty dead grass in the Sierra Nevada foothills. I bought the new Echos b4 I ran into your your video repairing the 242, and haven't had to use them!
The Cat removal is legit. I'm glad you're able to keep the machines live, and are finding the vids helpful. If you're running them for long hours, be sure to grease the gear heads via that bolt you see in the side of the gear hear, and it wouldn't be a bad ideal to pull the gear head off each season, take the driveshaft out, wipe a bunch of grease along it, and slide it back into the machine.
Excellent video, I always wondered what was involved in a cable drive shaft replacement. I noticed Echo switched over to 4-layer cables for most of their trimmer/brush cutter drive shafts. All my older units had the solid steel drive shaft. Question for you: Is the solid drive shaft considered a better design option over the cable design? I've never had any problems/issues with my solid drive shaft trimmers/brush cutters.
Thanks for watching, commenting, and for the kind words! A solid driveshaft is more durable. It's also more costly to manufacture, which is why there's been a shift to flexible driveshafts. Previously, flexible driveshafts were only used on the cheapest machines. The Stihl HT131 in this video doesn't have a flexible driveshaft.
I acquired a ht-131 and the previous owner was having a problem with the lower clamping assembly loosening and eventually snapping the splined drive shaft at the groove for the snap ring, so the bottom 15-1/4 inches of the splined drive shaft is still in the lower drive.tub. I purchased the whole drive shaft assembly from stihl, part #4182-710-3203. My question is can I just replace the splined portion of the drive shaft without disassembling the entire handle? I was thinking I could fast forward to the part of the video where you install the springs and bearings. I would start by inserting the splined drive shaft into the upper drive shaft and removing snap ring so i can slide the bearings and springs up the drive shaft. I have watched your video like 5 times now and it looks like my idea should work unless im missing something? Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Craig
Well I got the drive shaft installed and it appears that it's working like it should, fully extended I can turn the sprocket and I can see the clutch drum turn inside the motor housing. Only one issue though, the hole in the aluminum tube that in your video says it should be pointed to the right side, mine is pointing to the left. Not sure how critical the direction of the hole is or even how to rectify it?😮
@@stihlhead3338 Excellent job fixing it yourself!! I don't think it matters which direction that hole points. I just mention it in the video, because I like to return equipment (and vehicles that I work on) back to how the factory built them, so that there's no "evidence" that they've been worked on.
Cool, it's hard working on equipment when it comes to you in pieces. I just can't wait to try it out on the long overdue branches that are almost touching the house.😅 Thanks again I couldn't have done it without your video!🎉
LOL. Obviously, I never had to replace a driveshaft on my trimmers/brush cutters, and hopefully, I'll never have to. I'll keep my fingers crossed on my new Echos.
I want to thank you again for posting a video on troubleshooting and repairing the Shindaiwa 242 with an ignition coil that has spark, but the timing is off. Your's the only video I've encountered where you addressed this issue.
I've replaced the cataltic muffler on my C242 with an older Shindaiwa F230 muffler, tuned the carby with the smallD special tuning tool, and the 2011 model year unit screams. It has over 400 hours and going strong. This weekend alone it got overs 6 hours of use going through 3-feet high dusty dead grass in the Sierra Nevada foothills. I bought the new Echos b4 I ran into your your video repairing the 242, and haven't had to use them!
The Cat removal is legit.
I'm glad you're able to keep the machines live, and are finding the vids helpful. If you're running them for long hours, be sure to grease the gear heads via that bolt you see in the side of the gear hear, and it wouldn't be a bad ideal to pull the gear head off each season, take the driveshaft out, wipe a bunch of grease along it, and slide it back into the machine.
Thanks for the help , only had the drive shaft slip out when bar got pinched but this saved the day
I'm glad the video was helpful!
Excellent video, I always wondered what was involved in a cable drive shaft replacement. I noticed Echo switched over to 4-layer cables for most of their trimmer/brush cutter drive shafts. All my older units had the solid steel drive shaft.
Question for you: Is the solid drive shaft considered a better design option over the cable design? I've never had any problems/issues with my solid drive shaft trimmers/brush cutters.
Thanks for watching, commenting, and for the kind words!
A solid driveshaft is more durable. It's also more costly to manufacture, which is why there's been a shift to flexible driveshafts. Previously, flexible driveshafts were only used on the cheapest machines.
The Stihl HT131 in this video doesn't have a flexible driveshaft.
I acquired a ht-131 and the previous owner was having a problem with the lower clamping assembly loosening and eventually snapping the splined drive shaft at the groove for the snap ring, so the bottom 15-1/4 inches of the splined drive shaft is still in the lower drive.tub. I purchased the whole drive shaft assembly from stihl, part #4182-710-3203. My question is can I just replace the splined portion of the drive shaft without disassembling the entire handle? I was thinking I could fast forward to the part of the video where you install the springs and bearings. I would start by inserting the splined drive shaft into the upper drive shaft and removing snap ring so i can slide the bearings and springs up the drive shaft. I have watched your video like 5 times now and it looks like my idea should work unless im missing something? Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Craig
These are challenging to work on, so take your time and maybe take pictures with your phone as you disassemble. Your idea will probably work fine.
Well I got the drive shaft installed and it appears that it's working like it should, fully extended I can turn the sprocket and I can see the clutch drum turn inside the motor housing. Only one issue though, the hole in the aluminum tube that in your video says it should be pointed to the right side, mine is pointing to the left. Not sure how critical the direction of the hole is or even how to rectify it?😮
@@stihlhead3338 Excellent job fixing it yourself!! I don't think it matters which direction that hole points. I just mention it in the video, because I like to return equipment (and vehicles that I work on) back to how the factory built them, so that there's no "evidence" that they've been worked on.
Cool, it's hard working on equipment when it comes to you in pieces. I just can't wait to try it out on the long overdue branches that are almost touching the house.😅 Thanks again I couldn't have done it without your video!🎉
@@stihlhead3338 I'm glad the video was helpful! Enjoy your nice "new" pole pruner!