The choice of skip vs full simply comes down to two things: 1) Whether your saw has enough power to pull a full chain on a given bar length 2) Whether the bar length and wood type forces you into a skip because a full chain can't clear well enough (usually 32" + range). On my 572xp I will run full chain on a 28" bar or less. If I go to a 32" bar in hardwood i need a skip chain.
Skip tooth just means that you can put a 24” bar on to cut bigger wood, but It will have the same amount of teeth and feel the same to the saw and it’s RPMs as a 16” full comp.
A skip tooth chain does not have the same amount of cutter teeth as a full house chain that why you use them on long bars they have less drag and less cutters to file
Full comp will always be faster if you have the power to pull it. Skip reduces the number of cutters, reducing the amount of work done with every revolution of the chain. So you can pull a larger bar with skip. Only benefit.
Run a 572 with 20" on Iron Bark here in Aus. Pull Skip with an 8 Tooth Sprocket & it's the my fastest cut combinations. Contributing factor will be the 30 thou Depth gauges, & admittedly haven't tried lowering them on Full Comp.
Just started the vid and was pleased to hear of controlling variables in comparing skip to full comp then disappointed to see type of chain not controlled so won't know if any differences between skip/full comp are from that or from brand of chain. Good real world knowledge needs good real world control of variables. I appreciate that equipment costs lots a $$$ and I like the quality of your vids. Keep up the good stuff and keep making your good better and your better best. sincerely d
Full skip is only faster with long bars(30in & up) in big wood. Clears the chips out of the cut much better than full comp. The only benefit a full skip has on shorter bars (shorter than 30in) is fewer cutters to sharpen. Some people use them so that they can pull a longer bar on an underpowered saw. I honestly don't know why they make full skip chain under 30in. It's made specifically for long bars in big wood. Full skip also dulls faster than full comp because each cutter is working double time to make up for the lack of cutters.
@timl.9990 Not by all of my extensive testing results. I used to think it was faster on a 20in and 24in but no. Full skip isn't faster on short bars in any kind of wood.
@timl.9990 Yep. I do all testing 100% accurate. I don't change anything. Same bar, chain brands, same saw. Just swapping out the chains to do time cuts. If I run a Stihl rs full comp, I'll compare it to the same chain in full skip. I use several different chain brands too. The rs is just an example.
@timl.9990 I live in Florida too. Most of what we have around here are huge live oaks and huge old hardwoods. When I lived in Georgia, it was mostly pine. Still had red and white oaks with some hickory and poplar. I've ran Archer chain and still have a few loops of it in full comp, but I haven't tested it against their full skip version. Not bad chain.
@timl.9990 Been a while. The chains I've found that hold an edge longer than others are Stihl, Husqvarna X-Cut, and Oregon EXL. Archer kind of reminds me of TriLink chains when it comes to holding an edge. Not nearly as good as the 3 I listed but it's definitely not the worst. These sandy conditions in Florida really do a number on the edge.
I do not mind sharpening. I select chain type based upon bar length. 24" and less full comp of cutters. Longer bars get skip to help with roon to clear the chips from the kerf.
My 462 came with a 28" bar, and cuts well with a full comp. I'll be using skip on a 36" bar to cheat and have less cutters to pull through a larger tree with a small saw. It cuts like crazy with a 20" full comp. Can really lean on the dogs without bogging in the little stuff. However, the only reason I run a 20" is for dirty stuff on the ground. 28" is nice to hold the saw at hip level with knees just bent and bucking up stuff on the ground still.
Every cut can be a easier cut or a harder cut also, just like hand splitting the next round might be easier or harder to split. I run a skip just for the sharpening part. I also run a 20 inch bar. I do have a 36 and 25 but they seldom get used.
A lot don't consider the sharpening. If you are a production faller, or firewood bucker, you will get in more cuts in a day with skip vs full because you spend less time hunched over a stump sharpening a chain.
Skips work great on buckin big spars with a 400C 25” and best of all less teeth to file. $20 more for full skip, which I don’t understand, but worth it to me. Great job.
I did a lot of cutting in some hard Ash yesterday with a 30" bar with RS full-chisel Stihl chain on my 91cc MS660.... I had to bury the bar, and the saw needed all the power I could get. It did get me wondering if a skip chain would be a better option...
I run and old 266xp with a 24in full comp, bought a newer 460 rancher and the 24 in full comp bogs, drop a full skip on it and it runs great. Power matters, run the biggest bar/chain combo you can keep up the rpm’s.
Not a professional but I know a couple. Bar length notwithstanding I Have been led to believe the full skip Is better in soft wood. Any thoughts. On that?
I’m Not sure, We don’t cut much soft wood. I don’t see any benefit to running a full skip unless you want a longer bar on a saw that can’t handle a full comp. We just run 25” bars on most saws and they handle a full comp no problem. Thanks for watching! This full skip chain did just find a new home on a 50cc saw, video will be coming out soon!
@@765Guys thanks. I'm a Guy who cuts 40 face cords a year for heat. Always Used full chisel. For me a shorter lightweight bar does the trick. I run a husky 550xp with a 16 in lightweight Bar and 575xp with a 20 in bar for The bigger stuff. Appreciate your Honest reply and hard cutting test. Be careful out there.
@@billbertagnoli4226 sounds like you stay busy! We just run 24-25” bars to avoid bending over. Don’t really need the full 25 but makes my back feel better 🤣
??? "full chisel vs full skip"?? thats quite literally like comparing or saying "chevy 350 vs ford power steering box" lol theyre two completely unrelated things.. as far as tooth profile, its either full chisel vs round vs square vs semi n so on.. n for cutting link spacing its normal, semi n full skip, u cant really compare the two against each other...
On my 390xp i use 24,32, and 36 inch bars but only use skip tooth on the 36 but I do have a full house also but i like having less teeth to sharpen is about the only benefit now maybe if I went longer than 36 I would really start seeing a difference in cut rpm
Less teeth to sharpen is a huge advantage. I always ran a skip tooth chain on my bigger saws (460 and 310). Full comp chain is just a pain to sharpen. My opinion only!
@@765Guys 👍❤ not tryna be a smart arse!!🤣 I just wasn't sure, been looking at getting a longer bar on my 61/272, currently 20in... Full skip vs no skip doesn't seem to be much different so maybe I'll go full skip, much less teeth to sharpen and much less likely to bog down, seems worth it for only a fraction slower in the cut
First, why would you think that having half the cutting teeth would cut faster if you aren't spinning the chain twice as fast? Second, the whole point of using a skip tooth is to clear out the chips more easily when using a really long bar.
I think the idea is with half the teeth it wouldn’t slow your saw down as much, resulting in more chain speed. Like you said, if it clears the chips out faster does both factors make it cut faster? Turns out no, but without doing it and finding out i wouldn’t know for sure.
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The choice of skip vs full simply comes down to two things: 1) Whether your saw has enough power to pull a full chain on a given bar length 2) Whether the bar length and wood type forces you into a skip because a full chain can't clear well enough (usually 32" + range). On my 572xp I will run full chain on a 28" bar or less. If I go to a 32" bar in hardwood i need a skip chain.
I typically will run skip chain on at least one of my "smaller" saws. It helps a bit, but advantage is less teeth to sharpen. Very cool guys
I’d like to try a 24” bar with a full skip on my 550xp. Thanks for watching!
@@765Guys make discord
I was going to say the same thing. About the same cutting time but less teeth to sharpen.
Skip tooth just means that you can put a 24” bar on to cut bigger wood, but It will have the same amount of teeth and feel the same to the saw and it’s RPMs as a 16” full comp.
A skip tooth chain does not have the same amount of cutter teeth as a full house chain that why you use them on long bars they have less drag and less cutters to file
Not far from the truth but the larger chain will also have more weight and friction so it’s not really a pure ratio like that.
Thanks for sharing guys! An Informative an good review on the two styles. Andrew from NB :)
Good compression if your sawing dirty wood. Skip be better don’t have to sharpen as much.
Skip of full chisel🤷♂️ I have no experience with skip a tooth chain so thanks for the comparison. 👊🏻
Full comp will always be faster if you have the power to pull it. Skip reduces the number of cutters, reducing the amount of work done with every revolution of the chain.
So you can pull a larger bar with skip. Only benefit.
Run a 572 with 20" on Iron Bark here in Aus.
Pull Skip with an 8 Tooth Sprocket & it's the my fastest cut combinations.
Contributing factor will be the 30 thou Depth gauges, & admittedly haven't tried lowering them on Full Comp.
Just started the vid and was pleased to hear of controlling variables in comparing skip to full comp then disappointed to see type of chain not controlled so won't know if any differences between skip/full comp are from that or from brand of chain.
Good real world knowledge needs good real world control of variables. I appreciate that equipment costs lots a $$$ and I like the quality of your vids. Keep up the good stuff and keep making your good better and your better best.
sincerely
d
Full skip is only faster with long bars(30in & up) in big wood. Clears the chips out of the cut much better than full comp. The only benefit a full skip has on shorter bars (shorter than 30in) is fewer cutters to sharpen. Some people use them so that they can pull a longer bar on an underpowered saw. I honestly don't know why they make full skip chain under 30in. It's made specifically for long bars in big wood. Full skip also dulls faster than full comp because each cutter is working double time to make up for the lack of cutters.
Good information, we just ran it for fun on a common saw and setup others might use.
@timl.9990 Not by all of my extensive testing results. I used to think it was faster on a 20in and 24in but no. Full skip isn't faster on short bars in any kind of wood.
@timl.9990 Yep. I do all testing 100% accurate. I don't change anything. Same bar, chain brands, same saw. Just swapping out the chains to do time cuts. If I run a Stihl rs full comp, I'll compare it to the same chain in full skip. I use several different chain brands too. The rs is just an example.
@timl.9990 I live in Florida too. Most of what we have around here are huge live oaks and huge old hardwoods. When I lived in Georgia, it was mostly pine. Still had red and white oaks with some hickory and poplar. I've ran Archer chain and still have a few loops of it in full comp, but I haven't tested it against their full skip version. Not bad chain.
@timl.9990 Been a while. The chains I've found that hold an edge longer than others are Stihl, Husqvarna X-Cut, and Oregon EXL. Archer kind of reminds me of TriLink chains when it comes to holding an edge. Not nearly as good as the 3 I listed but it's definitely not the worst. These sandy conditions in Florida really do a number on the edge.
I do not mind sharpening. I select chain type based upon bar length. 24" and less full comp of cutters. Longer bars get skip to help with roon to clear the chips from the kerf.
Excellent idea for a video. To be honest I had never really thought about it until your video.
Thanks! It’s been on my mind for awhile just had to swing by the husky shop to get some chain.
Excellent test. Interesting results. Good video
Great video!! I like the skip tooth chain!! Stay Hydrated and Have a Safe Day
Thanks!
My 462 came with a 28" bar, and cuts well with a full comp.
I'll be using skip on a 36" bar to cheat and have less cutters to pull through a larger tree with a small saw.
It cuts like crazy with a 20" full comp. Can really lean on the dogs without bogging in the little stuff. However, the only reason I run a 20" is for dirty stuff on the ground.
28" is nice to hold the saw at hip level with knees just bent and bucking up stuff on the ground still.
Every cut can be a easier cut or a harder cut also, just like hand splitting the next round might be easier or harder to split. I run a skip just for the sharpening part. I also run a 20 inch bar. I do have a 36 and 25 but they seldom get used.
A lot don't consider the sharpening.
If you are a production faller, or firewood bucker, you will get in more cuts in a day with skip vs full because you spend less time hunched over a stump sharpening a chain.
Skips work great on buckin big spars with a 400C 25” and best of all less teeth to file. $20 more for full skip, which I don’t understand, but worth it to me. Great job.
I did a lot of cutting in some hard Ash yesterday with a 30" bar with RS full-chisel Stihl chain on my 91cc MS660.... I had to bury the bar, and the saw needed all the power I could get.
It did get me wondering if a skip chain would be a better option...
Was the skip tooth a semi chisel chain? If so that can alter the speed also. Good test though for sure
I run and old 266xp with a 24in full comp, bought a newer 460 rancher and the 24 in full comp bogs, drop a full skip on it and it runs great. Power matters, run the biggest bar/chain combo you can keep up the rpm’s.
Great comparison! If anything the skip tooth is easier to sharpen👍👍
That’s what I was thinking as well!
Not a professional but I know a couple. Bar length notwithstanding I
Have been led to believe the full skip
Is better in soft wood. Any thoughts. On that?
I’m Not sure, We don’t cut much soft wood. I don’t see any benefit to running a full skip unless you want a longer bar on a saw that can’t handle a full comp. We just run 25” bars on most saws and they handle a full comp no problem. Thanks for watching! This full skip chain did just find a new home on a 50cc saw, video will be coming out soon!
@@765Guys thanks. I'm a Guy who cuts 40 face cords a year for heat. Always
Used full chisel. For me a shorter lightweight bar does the trick. I run a husky 550xp with a 16 in lightweight
Bar and 575xp with a 20 in bar for
The bigger stuff. Appreciate your
Honest reply and hard cutting test.
Be careful out there.
@@billbertagnoli4226 sounds like you stay busy! We just run 24-25” bars to avoid bending over. Don’t really need the full 25 but makes my back feel better 🤣
@@765Guysthis. Save your back. Also keep the saw's moment of inertia away from you so it kicks back over you rather than into you.
Full comp is for wood carving lol. Full comp is cutter, cutter
No tie strap
1/4 and 3/8 lp
Never really thought about it. Are skip tooth chains cheaper because they have less teeth?
You’d think… nope, same price.
I just know that when I eat a cob of corn, I need a full compliment of teeth installed.
I prefer a skip chain, when the bar is past 3' it's less filing, and you'll never notice that it has less teeth.
??? "full chisel vs full skip"?? thats quite literally like comparing or saying "chevy 350 vs ford power steering box" lol theyre two completely unrelated things.. as far as tooth profile, its either full chisel vs round vs square vs semi n so on.. n for cutting link spacing its normal, semi n full skip, u cant really compare the two against each other...
Has your Stihl dealer went up in price on chains yet ? Mine has $43 for a 20'' chain
Probably, I think retail on a 24” chain is 47$
On my 390xp i use 24,32, and 36 inch bars but only use skip tooth on the 36 but I do have a full house also but i like having less teeth to sharpen is about the only benefit now maybe if I went longer than 36 I would really start seeing a difference in cut rpm
That is not "full house", it is standard sequence chain. On Full House chains all links are cutters.
Less teeth to sharpen is a huge advantage. I always ran a skip tooth chain on my bigger saws (460 and 310). Full comp chain is just a pain to sharpen. My opinion only!
skip tooth probably easier to maintain
Skip tooth chain can tell it looked way slow. Compared to full chisle
is the skip tooth chain not also full chisel though?... Surely it isn't semi chisel?
That is correct, I should correct my title.
@@765Guys 👍❤ not tryna be a smart arse!!🤣 I just wasn't sure, been looking at getting a longer bar on my 61/272, currently 20in... Full skip vs no skip doesn't seem to be much different so maybe I'll go full skip, much less teeth to sharpen and much less likely to bog down, seems worth it for only a fraction slower in the cut
About as real world as you can get. Not same brand chain. I don’t think I have matching chain brand on my saws. Never have ran Husqvarna chain
Thanks for the feedback!
Now I want to try a skip on my little 545
Same! I want to try a 24” small mount bar on mine with a skip chain and see how it does.
Skip tooth on 30+
I agree 👍, thanks for watching!
First, why would you think that having half the cutting teeth would cut faster if you aren't spinning the chain twice as fast? Second, the whole point of using a skip tooth is to clear out the chips more easily when using a really long bar.
I think the idea is with half the teeth it wouldn’t slow your saw down as much, resulting in more chain speed. Like you said, if it clears the chips out faster does both factors make it cut faster? Turns out no, but without doing it and finding out i wouldn’t know for sure.
Would be interesting to see how they compare “Noodling”……especially in the big wood! Good one ✔️ Tote Heaven 😎 🪵⛓🪚👍👏🇺🇸 Rick
Might have to give it a try! Thanks for watching rick!