Thanks for the great video. I cleaned my 10/22 for the first time in years and struggled for 10 minutes trying to get the KIDD guide rod in. Finally, I came to this RUclips video. 15 seconds later it was installed!
I’ve got the scalloped bolt, charging handle, and the guide rod and springs. Now I’m saving my cash for the single stage trigger assembly and I’m complete! Thank you Mr. Kidd for making such high quality products. The magazine latch plunger with the higher tension spring eased my frustrations with the BX 25 magazine wobbling around. Can't wait to get my single stage trigger cash ready!
Just in case you missed what he did…. He pushed the guide rod handle back and did NOT Pull it back, which CANTS the handle and prevents it from going back…. So smart for being just a Kidd! Thank You ! 😂
Just got my Kidd charging handle this week, great product, nice finish! I'll be ordering more upgraded parts from Kidd soon. I thought I was a volquartsen fan but not any more!
Excellent video on this topic. Pointing out the "clearance" point is key to ease of bolt removal. I expect my Kidd bolt handle and guide rod in the mail tomorrow. I chose the silver with Viton handle.
Great video. I recently purchased a KIDD bolt handle and your video was extremely helpful. I would love to see a video on how to install a KIDD extractor.
I recommend you cut a groove at the extreme end and supply a circlip so the user can capture the operating handle and recoil spring onto the rod. Easily disassembled, this combination would be optimum and it would make for an easier bolt installation and removal. Please consider it. I just ordered your kit and I plan to cut that groove myself with a Dremel cutting wheel.
Thanks for the video Tony. "It's as simple as that....." Well, it IS fairly easy AS LONG AS YOU HAVE YOUR WIFE KEEP THE GUIDE ROD HELD OVER & THE BOLT HELD BACK while you fiddle a bit with the bolt. LOL Got 'er done tonight with her help. Thanks for the FAST shipping as well!
Just installed both their bolt buffer and their precision rod and spring (normal tension one) piece of cake after seeing the video. Only recommendation from me would be to separate the soft buffer from it's pin prior to shipping, it can a bugger to get out. Otherwise, installation was perfect.
You should make a tool to hold the charging handle back(in place) while installing the bolt. Although I did it, it is much harder to keep the charging handle in perfect position than this video implies. Getting the rod to staying in place practically begs for an extra set if hands,
I plan on ordering one of these guide rod, and spring assemblies soon. But, for now I think I'll just cut off a coil or two on my factory spring. My slide is too slow, causing FTE stove pipes, when using 1260fps ammo. Never a problem with Velocitors. I think my extractor is working fine, because the empty side of the round is facing OUT, and the rim is facing IN, when it stove pipes. This should work, as long as my bolt still has enough power to chamber the next round..... Correct? Would love a response to this...... Thx. Oh, and I've already polished the receiver, and guide rod.
Saweet! just installed this on my 10 22, looks BA! quick question tho, what are the benefits of the adjustable springs on the guide rod? i have the 10% lower in right now, but i was wondering, does the stronger one have a faster cycle speed or something, where the 10% lower one would have a smoother but slower cycle? i figured i would ask the expert instead of trying to figure it out myself.
Does this piece fit with a closer tolerance into the bolt than the stock handle? The amount of angling the stock one allows, adds a ton of drag to the action! I can see how a lot of people would be fooled into thinking that their action was hanging up.
Do you precision machine your bolt handle hole to match your guide rods, or is it just drilled out as typical. I just got one of the rod kits and kinda want to match it to a handle of the same quality. Thanks Tony.
I have a KIDD Bolt Handle Charging Assembly With Guide Rod & Springs and Bolt on their way right now ( can't wait ) . The Bolt Handle Charging Assembly With Guide Rod & Springs comes with three springs , is there one that is recommended for general use or that approximates the OEM spring ?
Bought a bolt and bolt handle and guid rod but after installed it feels sticky I un installed my tech sights to make sure the screws weren’t interfering and cleaned the reciver but bolt still feels sticky any ideas?
It's the clearence that's my problem. A factory bolt and the factory receiver. Looking down on the inside of the receiver you can see the guide rod and spring on one side and a rail (?) on the other the bolt slides on. The spring and guide rod are hard but not impossible, it's that rail. It's like the receiver wasn't machined right. I'm chewing up the end of the rail. The bolt has to be forced out. Seems there should be a way to machine a few 1/100 off the back of the receiver behind the bolt stop to allow for easier bolt removal or maybe machine a few 1/100 off of the back of the bolt. I don't want to mess with that receiver rail or the bolt stop------ any ideas or suggestions ??
I'm having the same clearance issue. It was extremely difficult to assemble, so I tried to test fit the bolt and charging handle. I went in with difficulty and now I can't get it back out, because that rail comes back too far to allow it. It's frustrating beyond belief. I'm thinking that my only recourse is to Dremel that rail in the receiver and risk damaging the brand new bolt. But, what have I got to lose, because as it is now, my barreled receiver isn't even a good club. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!!!
well think it thru. The rail is the last place I'd whittle down. A. You can remove the bolt and maybe take some out of the back of the receiver behind the bolt stock or B. Reduce the back of the bolt itself a 1/32nd or less. In other words if you have to shorten do it in the back of the bolt or slightly in the back of the receiver.I have no idea if Tony Kidd's bolts or others are a tad shorter than Ruger factory. You can e-mail Kidd or the other after market bolt makers they'll tell you straight. So again if room needs to be made, make it at the back of the receiver in back of the bolt stop, or machine the back of the bolt down where it is rounded top and bottom where it slides into the bolt stop--but if you mess up the rail, you mess up the receiver and then you have a nice baseball bat------ also Gunsmither tools make some good tools for 10/22 bolt removal.. see youtube video for Tandemcross or Gunsmither
Well, the problem has become that the bolt-charging handle will not come out, thus making the barreled action a poor club. Otherwise, I'd have just put the original bolt back in. I've thought of taking it to a gunsmith, but it would probably be less expensive to by a new rifle. /sigh...
Look-- above all maintain the integrity of the receiver. If you got to break something break the guide rod and spring. A new one will only cost you $25.oo on up. If you dremel the rail it's for keeps. A good gunsmith will pop it out in front of you just to damage your ego by making you feel stupid by seeing how easy it was. But if you go tto a gunsmith-- ask around and get a good one. A good gunsmith is like a good car mechanic. You don't want any old grease monkey.--------- Don't dremel the rail-----DON'T DREMEL/GRIND OR WHITTLE THE RAIL. Ruger 10/22 is probably the best .22 on the market but they are mass produced and the machineing of the bolt itself and the receiver is rather crude. A Kidd bolt is beveled for easier installing of the guide rod-------- just watch some more videos here. You ought to be able to coax that giude rod and spring out the side of that receiver no trouble------ the bolt is the bitch
When I try to remove my bolt by pivoting the front up and leaving the back down, it will not come out. But, if I keep the bolt parallel to the receiver it comes right out. The easiest way to do this is to turn the receiver over while holding the bolt in, then lower the bolt while keeping it level to the receiver. Gravity will let the bolt fall right out into your hand.
Tony, I installed the extractor and spring along with the guide rod and white tipped spring on a new rifle. I get a FTE about every other round. Any suggestions?
Tony, I don't know if you saw my previous message or not. Anyway I took it apart and reinstalled everything. I took it back out and it worked great with the same ammo.
You guys always gaslight how easy this is supposed to be. Ruger 10/22's are one of the fiddliest bolt and charging handles to monkey with. I dread it. Right not wrestling with the same.
I don't understand why people praise the Ruger 10/22, like it was sent from God. It's junk, straight out of the box. That's why me, and tons of other people basically have to rebuild them ourselves, with aftermarket parts, and do tons of home mods, to make them halfway reliable. Not to mention, it's not very accurate either. My Marlins outperform them IN EVERY WAY!!!! I'm not impressed, Ruger...
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Thanks for the great video. I cleaned my 10/22 for the first time in years and struggled for 10 minutes trying to get the KIDD guide rod in. Finally, I came to this RUclips video. 15 seconds later it was installed!
I’ve got the scalloped bolt, charging handle, and the guide rod and springs. Now I’m saving my cash for the single stage trigger assembly and I’m complete! Thank you Mr. Kidd for making such high quality products. The magazine latch plunger with the higher tension spring eased my frustrations with the BX 25 magazine wobbling around. Can't wait to get my single stage trigger cash ready!
Thank you for producing such high quality products
Just in case you missed what he did…. He pushed the guide rod handle back and did NOT Pull it back, which CANTS the handle and prevents it from going back…. So smart for being just a Kidd! Thank You ! 😂
Nice video. Thank you for providing these instructions. Much smoother operation since I installed my Kidd guide rod, spring and bolt knob on my 10/22.
Just ordered all of these parts today! Looking forward to the installation and results! Thanks, Tony!
Just got my Kidd charging handle this week, great product, nice finish! I'll be ordering more upgraded parts from Kidd soon. I thought I was a volquartsen fan but not any more!
Dang Tony, doing it this way you only need two hands.. lol Thanks for the great products and videos.
MIke
Excellent video on this topic. Pointing out the "clearance" point is key to ease of bolt removal. I expect my Kidd bolt handle and guide rod in the mail tomorrow. I chose the silver with Viton handle.
Your video is so informative it helped me solve another problem. Thanks
This is a very good tutorial. It all makes sense now so thanks .
Can't wait to install tonight, thanks for the video!
Great video. I recently purchased a KIDD bolt handle and your video was extremely helpful. I would love to see a video on how to install a KIDD extractor.
he's using Hollywood special effects to make it look that easy..
Great help installing my guide rod spring! Thank you!
Love kidd products installing both a bolt and charging handle tonight. Thanks for the video
Outstanding video young man , Thank you
I recommend you cut a groove at the extreme end and supply a circlip so the user can capture the operating handle and recoil spring onto the rod. Easily disassembled, this combination would be optimum and it would make for an easier bolt installation and removal. Please consider it. I just ordered your kit and I plan to cut that groove myself with a Dremel cutting wheel.
Thanks for the video Tony. "It's as simple as that....." Well, it IS fairly easy AS LONG AS YOU HAVE YOUR WIFE KEEP THE GUIDE ROD HELD OVER & THE BOLT HELD BACK while you fiddle a bit with the bolt. LOL Got 'er done tonight with her help. Thanks for the FAST shipping as well!
He makes it look soooo easy
Hi Russ9782, I'm sure there are things that you do every day that look just as easy. Good shooting! Mary Kidd
Just installed both their bolt buffer and their precision rod and spring (normal tension one) piece of cake after seeing the video. Only recommendation from me would be to separate the soft buffer from it's pin prior to shipping, it can a bugger to get out. Otherwise, installation was perfect.
Tony, you make that look so easy! I need 3 hands and a flashlight to do it! But I guess you probably have had more practice than I have!!
You should make a tool to hold the charging handle back(in place) while installing the bolt. Although I did it, it is much harder to keep the charging handle in perfect position than this video implies. Getting the rod to staying in place practically begs for an extra set if hands,
Try using and getting a "gunsmither" tool for the easy install, look him up! Makes easier than the edited vid here trust me.
thanks mike.
do you use any oil at all on the bolt?
I plan on ordering one of these guide rod, and spring assemblies soon. But, for now I think I'll just cut off a coil or two on my factory spring. My slide is too slow, causing FTE stove pipes, when using 1260fps ammo. Never a problem with Velocitors. I think my extractor is working fine, because the empty side of the round is facing OUT, and the rim is facing IN, when it stove pipes. This should work, as long as my bolt still has enough power to chamber the next round..... Correct? Would love a response to this...... Thx. Oh, and I've already polished the receiver, and guide rod.
Saweet! just installed this on my 10 22, looks BA! quick question tho, what are the benefits of the adjustable springs on the guide rod? i have the 10% lower in right now, but i was wondering, does the stronger one have a faster cycle speed or something, where the 10% lower one would have a smoother but slower cycle? i figured i would ask the expert instead of trying to figure it out myself.
Does this piece fit with a closer tolerance into the bolt than the stock handle? The amount of angling the stock one allows, adds a ton of drag to the action! I can see how a lot of people would be fooled into thinking that their action was hanging up.
Does this actually cycle subsonic automatically?
i ruined my first oem guide rod because I though I had to crimp/solder it like they do the factory one lol. Gladly bought it again though
thank you. MKidd
Do you suggest using any lube with the bolt on the rails? Thanks!
A couple drops of light oil. Don't over do it.
Do you precision machine your bolt handle hole to match your guide rods, or is it just drilled out as typical. I just got one of the rod kits and kinda want to match it to a handle of the same quality. Thanks Tony.
I have a KIDD Bolt Handle Charging Assembly With Guide Rod & Springs and Bolt on their way right now ( can't wait ) . The Bolt Handle Charging Assembly With Guide Rod & Springs comes with three springs , is there one that is recommended for general use or that approximates the OEM spring ?
Bought a bolt and bolt handle and guid rod but after installed it feels sticky I un installed my tech sights to make sure the screws weren’t interfering and cleaned the reciver but bolt still feels sticky any ideas?
It's the clearence that's my problem. A factory bolt and the factory receiver. Looking down on the inside of the receiver you can see the guide rod and spring on one side and a rail (?) on the other the bolt slides on. The spring and guide rod are hard but not impossible, it's that rail. It's like the receiver wasn't machined right. I'm chewing up the end of the rail. The bolt has to be forced out. Seems there should be a way to machine a few 1/100 off the back of the receiver behind the bolt stop to allow for easier bolt removal or maybe machine a few 1/100 off of the back of the bolt. I don't want to mess with that receiver rail or the bolt stop------ any ideas or suggestions ??
I'm having the same clearance issue. It was extremely difficult to assemble, so I tried to test fit the bolt and charging handle. I went in with difficulty and now I can't get it back out, because that rail comes back too far to allow it. It's frustrating beyond belief. I'm thinking that my only recourse is to Dremel that rail in the receiver and risk damaging the brand new bolt. But, what have I got to lose, because as it is now, my barreled receiver isn't even a good club. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!!!
well think it thru. The rail is the last place I'd whittle down. A. You can remove the bolt and maybe take some out of the back of the receiver behind the bolt stock or B. Reduce the back of the bolt itself a 1/32nd or less. In other words if you have to shorten do it in the back of the bolt or slightly in the back of the receiver.I have no idea if Tony Kidd's bolts or others are a tad shorter than Ruger factory. You can e-mail Kidd or the other after market bolt makers they'll tell you straight. So again if room needs to be made, make it at the back of the receiver in back of the bolt stop, or machine the back of the bolt down where it is rounded top and bottom where it slides into the bolt stop--but if you mess up the rail, you mess up the receiver and then you have a nice baseball bat------ also Gunsmither tools make some good tools for 10/22 bolt removal.. see youtube video for Tandemcross or Gunsmither
Well, the problem has become that the bolt-charging handle will not come out, thus making the barreled action a poor club. Otherwise, I'd have just put the original bolt back in. I've thought of taking it to a gunsmith, but it would probably be less expensive to by a new rifle. /sigh...
Look-- above all maintain the integrity of the receiver. If you got to break something break the guide rod and spring. A new one will only cost you $25.oo on up. If you dremel the rail it's for keeps. A good gunsmith will pop it out in front of you just to damage your ego by making you feel stupid by seeing how easy it was. But if you go tto a gunsmith-- ask around and get a good one. A good gunsmith is like a good car mechanic. You don't want any old grease monkey.--------- Don't dremel the rail-----DON'T DREMEL/GRIND OR WHITTLE THE RAIL. Ruger 10/22 is probably the best .22 on the market but they are mass produced and the machineing of the bolt itself and the receiver is rather crude. A Kidd bolt is beveled for easier installing of the guide rod-------- just watch some more videos here. You ought to be able to coax that giude rod and spring out the side of that receiver no trouble------ the bolt is the bitch
When I try to remove my bolt by pivoting the front up and leaving the back down, it will not come out. But, if I keep the bolt parallel to the receiver it comes right out. The easiest way to do this is to turn the receiver over while holding the bolt in, then lower the bolt while keeping it level to the receiver. Gravity will let the bolt fall right out into your hand.
GOOD INFO
Tony, I installed the extractor and spring along with the guide rod and white tipped spring on a new rifle. I get a FTE about every other round. Any suggestions?
Tony, I don't know if you saw my previous message or not. Anyway I took it apart and reinstalled everything. I took it back out and it worked great with the same ammo.
So I just received this in the mail, how do you remove the factory bolt handle?
I managed to get the bolt and spring assembly back in, but I can't slide the bolt to the forward position.
Archer C Then the bolt must not be sitting in the charging handle slot correctly. Unless the aftermarket, is slightly too thick...
Those springs DO NOT compress that easy - been fighting with this for an hour now
Took me like 10 seconds.
You guys always gaslight how easy this is supposed to be. Ruger 10/22's are one of the fiddliest bolt and charging handles to monkey with. I dread it. Right not wrestling with the same.
I don't understand why people praise the Ruger 10/22, like it was sent from God. It's junk, straight out of the box. That's why me, and tons of other people basically have to rebuild them ourselves, with aftermarket parts, and do tons of home mods, to make them halfway reliable. Not to mention, it's not very accurate either. My Marlins outperform them IN EVERY WAY!!!! I'm not impressed, Ruger...