Do not use thread lock on caliper bolts or anything particularly heavy duty locking nuts on the car! You only need to tighten or torque it to the proper level of pounds to foot pressure. Mechanical strength is important knowledge for maintaining the strength and stability required for the vehicle.
Wiping new rotors down with brake cleaner 1st is a must, they're shipped with non rust oil coating. The back e-brake overide is a must or damage can occur.👍
If it is light brown to maybe orange, it’s rust. If it is dark green or brown-black (metallic brake pads;30-45 % or higher)or brown yellow (it’s organic pads) and you still have a little bit of lifeline in the padding.
Yup, it's just the opposite. Here's the information from the Ford manual: 1. Set the ignition to ON. 2. Press and hold the accelerator pedal and place the EPB switch in the APPLY (upward) position. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch. 3. Set the ignition to OFF then set the ignition to ON within 5 seconds . Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch. 4. NOTE: The EPB system will fully apply and release the parking brake to guarantee sufficient air gap between the rear brake pads and brake disc. Release the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.
Nice! Just got mine done today at home. I opted for just the slotted front brake rotor and ceramic pads. Big improvement for sure. Stopping distance is much shorter and quicker too.
Yeah that red colour fooled me too when i bought a tube. In passing blue is designed to be mechanically removed. Meaning using a tool. The red has to be removed by heat.
Milwaukee is better for sure! In all serious, though, having an impact is better than no impact! Buying what you can afford instead of buying what is cool/popular just to get more views is better too!
Incoming heckle... Even in the sped up video, my 1/4" Milwaukee impact is faster than the Ryobi. What!? Just kidding. We all have our budget and needs. As long as it does the job for you, it is a good tool to have.
Where were those jack stands made? China, Malaysia? Of quality materials? The entire vehicle is supported only by the release lever, while the case hardened solid steel safety pin hangs to the ground and sparkles in the sunshine. One could argue it would have been safer to keep using the old brakes. Great video!
You know, I'm usually pretty good about putting the pin in. But times I forget. I also usually leave the jack on place with just a little weight on it just as an added later if protection.
Great tip to get the rotor to break free. I just did my fronts and had to pound on them for awhile before I got them both off. I need to finish the rears yet and may give this a try.
I had to do that yesterday I hit my finger with the hammer I think it's broken. I wish I thought of that lol Atleast I put antiseize on the hub for next time.
I usually lift from under the suspension or the differential. You don't have to do brake fluid but if you're approaching 100,000 miles it's a good idea.
Thank you for sharing how-to. My truck will need a new brakes soon and I’m trying to choose the brand. Im just wondering about the rust around the center hat area since it’s not painted. How is the rust so far on your new rotors?
I chose to go with AC Delco rotors, as the 'hat' is powder coat painted, and have the 'Professional' written on the box, used on Police cars I'm told. I've had enough trouble with the 20" wheels sticking to the rotor, so hoping this will help.
@@TruckStuff1 They come from the factory with locktite because some person sitting behind a desk with nothing to do. Created a problem that didn't exist. Why don't you put locktite on your lug nuts too?
Kind of looks like this guy was looking for any tiny detail he could complain about and brag about his extensive experience...pretty typical. Good video, I'd rather be safe than sorry thanks for the extra caution
I think that's normal. If you look, the helper springs aren't engaged yet which tells me they aren't sagging more than normal. A flat profile offers a smoother ride.
You just showed people how to ruin a new set of pads by putting them on a bad rotor....You should have put the old pads back on until you get the right parts....Please set the tools down and back away slowly.
Had one for 15 years, one of the best trucks I owned with the 7.3 turbo, but I'm liking my '16 F150 3.5 Eb too. Did lots of towing with the 7.3 and it ran as good when I sold it, as it did when I drove it off the lot new! Added a chip, and it did 390 rear wheel HP on the dyno!
Worthless upgrade. The wimpy two piston caliper with supplies the weak pressure. Vw tourareg has 6 pistons 3inside 3outside!!! The push pull technology is is weak!!
Just a tip for anyone thinking of getting these rotors and they live in a state that they use salt on the roads …..don’t do it ….it’s ABSOLUTELY not worth it ,the salt gets into the grooves the holes and it eats them up even faster
@@TruckStuff1 not worth paying extra for these , you will see rust start to get into those holes and rust them out bad the rust around the holes also wear out pads faster …..I’m telling you because I’ve personally ran drilled and slotted rotors for years in New York I’ve had them on a Jetta,accord, f150 and I’ve FINALLY came to the conclusion that they just. Are . Not . Worth it …..unless you are driving like an absolute maniac then do whatever you want but I PROMISE you are throwing money away
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Using the bolt to push off the rusted rotor, seriously saved my butt while doing my brakes. Excellent tip! Thank you.
Glad it helped!
What size nut and bolt did you guys use. Thank you!
@@AutoHeadz looking at the video, I think it’s 3/4 inch bolt and nut. I’m going to try it out today
Way better than using the BFH or the flaming wrench.
For real I just saw this first time myself. Researching how to before I do mine.
"Translates roughly to 5 ugudugas" lmao. Dammit take this subscription, you earned it today.
Glad to have you on board!
😂😂😂
Do not use thread lock on caliper bolts or anything particularly heavy duty locking nuts on the car! You only need to tighten or torque it to the proper level of pounds to foot pressure. Mechanical strength is important knowledge for maintaining the strength and stability required for the vehicle.
Wiping new rotors down with brake cleaner 1st is a must, they're shipped with non rust oil coating. The back e-brake overide is a must or damage can occur.👍
I totally agree!
Just did my brakes. Thank you!
You're welcome!
If it is light brown to maybe orange, it’s rust. If it is dark green or brown-black (metallic brake pads;30-45 % or higher)or brown yellow (it’s organic pads) and you still have a little bit of lifeline in the padding.
Enjoyed your video. One quick question: is there a procedure to take it out of maintenance mode (emergency brake)?
Yup, it's just the opposite. Here's the information from the Ford manual:
1. Set the ignition to ON.
2. Press and hold the accelerator pedal and place the EPB switch in the APPLY (upward) position. Continue to hold
the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.
3. Set the ignition to OFF then set the ignition to ON within 5 seconds . Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and
the EPB switch.
4. NOTE: The EPB system will fully apply and release the parking brake to guarantee sufficient air gap between the
rear brake pads and brake disc.
Release the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.
Good thing about your new rotors is that they have jackscrew holes in them so you won't have to use your improvised jackscrew method next time.
Electronic parking brake....LOL
So dumb. Vehicles are just getting dumber and dumber.
How do you take the parking brake off maintenance mode?
Nice! Just got mine done today at home. I opted for just the slotted front brake rotor and ceramic pads. Big improvement for sure. Stopping distance is much shorter and quicker too.
Several years later and many towing miles there doing great
Do you have phenolic or steel caliper Pistons I have a 20/20 I need to know if they are phenolic or Steel
Thank you for providing the link. You just saved me $50.87.
Awesome! And because you used the link, you supported my channel. Thank you!
drilled and slotted discs are for racing applications where hard braking is very frequent. They will actually wear out faster during daily use.
Bullshit.
I want to try this I have a 2018. I’m wondering Do you have to bleed the brakes ??
You don't have to bleed the brakes, but it's a convenient time to do it
Yeah that red colour fooled me too when i bought a tube. In passing blue is designed to be mechanically removed. Meaning using a tool. The red has to be removed by heat.
Milwaukee is better for sure! In all serious, though, having an impact is better than no impact! Buying what you can afford instead of buying what is cool/popular just to get more views is better too!
Incoming heckle...
Even in the sped up video, my 1/4" Milwaukee impact is faster than the Ryobi. What!?
Just kidding. We all have our budget and needs. As long as it does the job for you, it is a good tool to have.
seems like the front was easy and fun and the rears were hard and not so fun
With some experience theyre both not too bad
You put new pads on the rear and left the old rotors on, then put new rotors on later? No no no no no
The sky doesn't fall don't worry 😂
Great Video! I'm About To Do My Brakes All The Way Around Also On My 2015. Thanks For The Great Videos!
Thank YOU!
I'm not a subscriber but you should use Milwaukee cause there better
mine warped in a year
Where were those jack stands made? China, Malaysia? Of quality materials? The entire vehicle is supported only by the release lever, while the case hardened solid steel safety pin hangs to the ground and sparkles in the sunshine. One could argue it would have been safer to keep using the old brakes.
Great video!
You know, I'm usually pretty good about putting the pin in. But times I forget. I also usually leave the jack on place with just a little weight on it just as an added later if protection.
But I'm glad you liked the video!
Forgot the clips back on.
Great tip to get the rotor to break free. I just did my fronts and had to pound on them for awhile before I got them both off. I need to finish the rears yet and may give this a try.
Give it a try and good luck
I had to do that yesterday I hit my finger with the hammer I think it's broken. I wish I thought of that lol Atleast I put antiseize on the hub for next time.
I also had to use this tip yesterday. The rears were stubborn and the parking brake was not playing real nice.
Awesome! Gave me confidence to do this job myself!!!
Get after it! You can do it, it seems more intimidating than it is
I use RIDGED impact because they have lifetime warranty 😊
never had good luck with drilled/slotted rotors, they always rust in the slots and holes. hope your luck is better
You need to use a j hook for the calipers
Did you have to put e brake on maintenance for 5he front brakes ??
Nope!
What is the torque spec for the caliper bracket bolts?
Looks like 27ft/lbs for the electronic parking brake model, 24ftlbs for the manual
@@TruckStuff1 Correct!
Are those specs for the front and rear?
Great video! Where on the truck were you lifting it with the jack and putting up the stands? No need to flush the brake fluid when you change?
I usually lift from under the suspension or the differential. You don't have to do brake fluid but if you're approaching 100,000 miles it's a good idea.
Is that a deadblow hammer?
Did they exchange the rear rotors? I bought the wrong kit too. I need the rotors for the electronic parking brake.
They did. It was a pain in the butt working with their customer service, but eventually they exchanged them
What size was that bolt for the rotor to come off
I honestly couldn't tell you. Just one I had lying around
Are they quiet brakes?
Thank you for sharing how-to. My truck will need a new brakes soon and I’m trying to choose the brand. Im just wondering about the rust around the center hat area since it’s not painted. How is the rust so far on your new rotors?
Not bad rust at all
I chose to go with AC Delco rotors, as the 'hat' is powder coat painted, and have the 'Professional' written on the box, used on Police cars I'm told. I've had enough trouble with the 20" wheels sticking to the rotor, so hoping this will help.
did they rust out like the oems
These have been great, several years later
The comments said that the customer service team suck big time
Yep. They do. They're very difficult
Very interesting video.does the rotors eat the pads up and make a lot of brake Dust?? I have been looking at the kit.
Not a lot of brake dust for me
Thank you
Do you have to bleed the brakes?
You don't have to but you can
Great videos!
Thank you! I appreciate your support!
how do you like it for powersstop? it is lot better than stock?
Noticbly better especially when loaded. They don't heat soak as quick as stock seemed to
3:35 telling people they have to use thread locker is a lie. I've been installing brakes for 36 years. I've never had a bolt to come loose.
You've been very lucky. They come with threadl ocker from the factory for a reason.
@@TruckStuff1 They come from the factory with locktite because some person sitting behind a desk with nothing to do. Created a problem that didn't exist. Why don't you put locktite on your lug nuts too?
Kind of looks like this guy was looking for any tiny detail he could complain about and brag about his extensive experience...pretty typical. Good video, I'd rather be safe than sorry thanks for the extra caution
@@TruckStuff1 Still waiting on your answer
I forgot to put locktight, bolt came loose and the caliper put a nice little groove on the inside of my rim.
Looking at the rear leafs... are they suppose to sag thay bad?😱
I think that's normal. If you look, the helper springs aren't engaged yet which tells me they aren't sagging more than normal. A flat profile offers a smoother ride.
Oh yeah good point, any thoughts of installing firestone air suspension?
Im waiting on my order to be delivered, should be here some time today😬
Depending what your needs are, they're great. I had them on my F250
You just showed people how to ruin a new set of pads by putting them on a bad rotor....You should have put the old pads back on until you get the right parts....Please set the tools down and back away slowly.
You must not have watched the whole video. I never drove the truck until the new rotor came in.
William, please put the Cheetos down…and walk away slowly.
7.3l til I die
Had one for 15 years, one of the best trucks I owned with the 7.3 turbo, but I'm liking my '16 F150 3.5 Eb too. Did lots of towing with the 7.3 and it ran as good when I sold it, as it did when I drove it off the lot new! Added a chip, and it did 390 rear wheel HP on the dyno!
Do I need to bleed any brakes?
You don't have to, but it's not a bad time to change your brake fluid too
DeWalt tools all day!!
I'm a Milwaukee fanboy
1/4 ratchet and cheater pipe. All you need
I'm happy with my Makita! :)
Worthless upgrade. The wimpy two piston caliper with supplies the weak pressure. Vw tourareg has 6 pistons 3inside 3outside!!! The push pull technology is is weak!!
I would of put grease on the back of that all the vids I watch have that problem rust is never a good thing
Just a tip for anyone thinking of getting these rotors and they live in a state that they use salt on the roads …..don’t do it ….it’s ABSOLUTELY not worth it ,the salt gets into the grooves the holes and it eats them up even faster
I live in a salt state and haven't had any problems
@@TruckStuff1 not worth paying extra for these , you will see rust start to get into those holes and rust them out bad the rust around the holes also wear out pads faster …..I’m telling you because I’ve personally ran drilled and slotted rotors for years in New York I’ve had them on a Jetta,accord, f150 and I’ve FINALLY came to the conclusion that they just. Are . Not . Worth it …..unless you are driving like an absolute maniac then do whatever you want but I PROMISE you are throwing money away