Awsome video Master, thanks for the tip and more importantly for investing the time to create a build tutorial that have been missing from the start :) I have added your video to the thinguiverse.
@@vogman It was a iterative process back in the days of the photon OG. it took around 2 to 3 months development with a bunch of failed prints to get the supports just right to print in any printer, namely sla laser printers. The design had to take in account less great resins and i ended up making custom screw holes in order to avoid cracked cases My wish when I released the designs as public domain was that by now i would be able to buy a bootleg copy of my design from china at half the price it took me to build one. Turns out that designing around off the shelf chinese parts probably means that any chance of a bootleg will be low since the margins on that would most likely be too low lolol. Either way it is cool to have a diy part that still works after all these years.
I would consider throttling that heater down with a buck controller for safety reasons. A thermal runaway or broken fan on a 100W heater can lead to a burning disaster. It wouldn't be the first time a thermal runaway is responsible for a burned down house.
@@Bullshitvol2 PTC heaters can't suffer from thermal runaway by design. They are self-regulating and were specifically designed to run open-loop without any diagnostic controls. As the material heats up, its internal resistance also does exponentially, effectively self limiting.
I agree with VogMan.. thank you for sharing your build. Between you, Vogman, and some blender edits I now have a great little heater that has helped my prints immensely. You guys are awesome!
I'm actually using this heater for my Saturn semi automation project. One thing I would advise to anyone is grab a thermal fuse and place next to the ptc heater. If the fan fails, that heater, heats very quick and can potentially cause a fire.
I just wanted to thank you. I recently finished building a modified version of this PTC heater with an extended housing and a power switch built in. I shared it on Thingiverse in the remixed versions of the original the link you shared. Your video and the supply links provided in your description were infinitely helpful. It is well paced, concise, detailed, and made the project much easier and straight forward. I tend to run my house colder than most in the winter, and this heater has made it so I can reliably print again. So again.. thank you for posting this video. Also I hope you don't mind.. I captured a screen grab of one of your wiring diagrams, modified it to represent my build, and included it in the pictures for the build on Thingiverse. I made sure to mention your video in the description. This is a truly excellent video.
These little heaters are worth their weight in gold. I made a similar one when I got my printer a year ago. My printer is out in the garage - I printed throughout the winter with no problems. I'm certain this wouldn't have been possible without it. As usual, your explanations are very well articulated! Please never stop making videos!
Love your video! I will be adding this to my Christmas shopping list. However, rather than need a thermometer or device to check the temps...place the RTD into a glass of ice water. I do this quite often as an Industrial Automation Engineer. You can use a kitchen temperature device just to double check your glass of ice water. Seems like extra steps...but if you have OCD like me...make's life simple! Once again...love your videos! This one has garnered a subscribe mate!
Thanks James, great to have you here. That's a very clever idea... ice water, giving you 0c or 32f. Clever. Never thought of that. You've clearly got an engineer's mind 😁😁😁👍👍👍
I just want to thank you for the patient, well enunciated, and highly efficient and informative summary of the programming functions of the thermostat. The instructions are printed so small as to be nearly illegible, and what can actually be read is almost incomprehensible.
I've been increasingly active on the resinprinting reddit page and heaters have come up quite a lot lately. Purely as a mostly plug and play alternative, I've recommended using a reptile heat pad for a passive heat source that can be mounted directly inside the printing chamber. I happen to have one from an old fermentation acceleration experiment I ran several years ago, but they can easily maintain a small, enclosed space up to 30*F over ambient depending on the size you use. My print room is also my utility room where my washer/dryer is, so when it gets cool enough to affect my print temps, I'll suddenly be urged to do laundry and run my dryer to my indoor entrapment box, but for those in other areas that may not want to fiddle with the electronics (and barring the day I don't have dirty laundry, haha) I'll be going this route myself. I do like the work put into this solution though; good forward thinking, and having active temp control is really nice!
Thank you for this, I ordered everything and have downloaded the heater body stl files, but what i have done is elongated the body an extra 20mm to give me a bit of extra space to work with, I highly recommend people do this, thanks again.
I've been using one of these since last year and it's a fantastic and simple solution that's very easy to put together. One thing to note is the check your printer to see if there's a good magnetic mounting place, the z-arm for the Saturn is non magnetic, so I ended up printing a arm to hold it as well.
THX for the presentation however after seeing this I wonder why something like this is not part of the printers in the first place regarding that prints are so dependend on optimal temperatur when it comes to resins.
If only this came out last week. I started building a small chamber heater for my VoxeLab Proxima using a 120w heater instead of the 100w you used. I was trying to design my own case for it to hold a W1209 temp controller, but then saw this video. Ordered the smaller controller you used and printed the case last night. Came out perfectly (it is temporarily in my spare bedroom all toasty) once the controller comes will wire up. I presumer the side circles on the case are also for magnet placement, so I can stick it on the side of the metal column.
Another VOG upload in my subscription feed = another great morning =D I built something similar last year, but mine wasn't as elegant. I had a spare generic heat controller from an old soldering iron and a solid-state relay. Mounted it all in a (much larger) box with a wall outlet as the output so I could plug in a small space heater. I used a bit of painters' tape to mount the thermocouple just next to the resin tray. When it drops below the setpoint, the outlet becomes live and powers the heater. I just pointed the heater at the printer. Crude, but it got me through last winter with minimal issues! =D
@@vogman Yep, Harbor Freight here in the US sells a 12v heater unit that's marketed as an windshield defroster. It plugs into a cigarette lighter port in a car. It has what looks like the same heater block inside and a nice little mini squirrel cage fan. $15 USD.
Great video! I live in Canada and have my printers in the basement. Having the resin at these higher temperatures makes a BIG difference. I have a similar rig but it is inside a Creality tent. The housing and magnets is a great idea.
Thank you so much for making this video! I have my printer in a pantry (with an exhaust fan to the outside), and it gets quite cold in the winter. This is exactly the solution that I needed! Also, your channel is top 2 among my favorite 3D printing channels, keep your awesome videos coming!
Well, it wont be my next project (workshop is pretty warm even in winter), but this looks like a great little item. Well done to the guys that put this together! It looks bloody useful.
@@vogman No room! Buddy! And more on the way. It's like they're breeding. Which is a pity cause if printers bred I would save a fortune. What would you even feed a baby printer? Resin in a baby bottle?
Great project. It's on my to do list. I have my printers on very cold place... sometimes goes down to 6 degrees, so this is a great solution. Thank you VOG and has always a great video.
I printed one of these for my OG Photon a couple of years back. My setup is super jank but it works well. I actually merged the thing with a new side piece for the Photon. So I removed one of the the orange windows and put a plastic side in that I printed with the heater fitted to it.
very worth while having these, i added a ptc heater to the case permently rather than this solution. But they work so well. it annoys me that printers dont come with this built in.
This is very cool but I have one question, if you are using a power port on the heater why would you run the cable through the cover and then plug it into the heater. Why not just install the power port in the cover, you would get a more efficient seal, it would give you more room for the wiring within the heater body and the cover would not be tied to the cable making operation much easier.
I've (finally!) set up my 3d printer (Elegoo Mars 2 pro) also in the UK. The printer is in my garage so I also need to heat it. I put the printer in a Creality fire resistant fdm enclosure tent, and for heat I put together a little ceramic reptile lamp heater with thermostat which I mounted on fireproof plasterboard. To rapidly get it up to temperature I blow hot air in with a hair dryer. While printing it maintains 23 degrees C easily and consistently. The benefit of the enclosure is I can store my resin bottle in there to warm up too.
@@adurbe I'm using a ceramic bulb, there's no visible light emitting from it. You can also use heat bulbs that create visible light, they are toward the red/infrared end of the spectrum, I don't imagine they would have a UV issue, but I decided not to find out ;)
That sounds a very good idea. But I have to ask, don't those reptile lamps give off UV? I'm sure I read that somewhere. The lid should protect the resin of course.
@@vogman The red/infrared bulbs also direct the heat (think heat lamps you see at restaurants). The ceramic bulbs radiate evenly, which seems more desirable.
I'm awaiting delivery of the parts but have already printed the enclosure (FFF version). For those without metal surfaces to attach, consider that one can place matching magnets on the outside of the cover to place the device anywhere desired.
Thanks a lot for this walk through - built it this afternoon (it works!) and will try it out in my Elegoo Jupiter tomorrow. I modified one thing: I connected the negative lead of the fan to the same position as the negative lead of the PTC heater. This way the fan only runs when the heating is on. Might mod change that if I find that this doesn't work as well.
Thank you so much for such an informative and easy-to-follow video - just finished the second of these heaters to keep my two resin printers printing reliably through the UK winter :)
Hi everyone can i ask for some help? I just finished building the heater but i have an electrical problem with the power connector (it's the one suggested by VOG, where you directly wire the cables in. It heats up to the point of smoking, i can't understand where the problem is. i bought the exact same parts listed in the video. Thanks for any help.
Probably makes a difference where the PTC heating element comes from. Mine doesn't manage to heat the printing chamber by even 3°C in 2 hours. If you take the Amazon reviews as a comparison, this also fits with the statements of other buyers
Oh that is super useful. I don't understand why no printer manufacturers have even touched this built in or as an addon. I'd pay £99 right now for one that's designed to fit perfectly with my MonoX and I bet a whole lot of others would too. I wonder why no printers at all for resin have heaters and yet so many for FDM have heated beds? We know its necessary to print at above room temperature so heating is kinda needed. Anyway, call out to manufacturers to make something you can just slot in and go without the DIY! RN I'm using our outdoor patio heater thing in the shed and get up to 28c ish before I'll even consider starting a print. Its made a huge difference to print reliability but I don't like to think about what that added cost of heating the entire shed is. It is nice being all warm and cosy in the shed though, so there is that plus to a bigger heating solution haha
Excellent video. Thank You. Alternatively, you could move to Texas where I'm at and enjoy a 24/7 46 Celsius HEAT box I call a garage. It does drop enough in the winter for my FDM printer to have issues though, but the winters here are relatively short and mild compared to most places. By the way, your instructions are so clear and concise even a complete novice should understand them easily. Screw Terminal A/C two wire adaptor!?!? Where has this thing been all my life!?! Buying a big pack of those!
Thanks for this great tip, and how-to-guide. I've just ordered all the items, and can't wait for them to show up, so I can get back to 3d printing - The room I currently have my printers in has become to cold to print in, so I really hope this will make it possible to print over the winter :)
just got a flashforge foto 9.25 and its in my conservatory it get bloody cold in there, just managed to print the case perfectly and bought all the parts from amazon along with a 120*C fuse just in case. i fixed it in place with magnets outside the enclosure. works amazingly. thanks for the guide
@@pabllok i soldered it into the positive wire before the heater element and slid it into some heat shrink without shrinking it and it fitted in between the heater and housing on one side, there is just enough room. i used a 133*C thermal fuse. I had also replaced all the wiring with silicone wire (14 awg)
Thanks for this VOG, i've been doing mostly 3 hr prints i achieve this by immersing the resin bottle in a pan full of hot tap water for aboot 10 minutes then shake the bottle for aboot 2 mins then pour, but like you say winter is coming and with windows open for ventilation the resin will soon cool so again thanks!
Great video, thank you! My relay is causing the unit to turn off. Perhaps its a bad power supply providing too little current? Its the 10a 12v model but seems super lightweight and low quality?
great idea, i think i would just use another 4 slightly larger magnets on the outside to hold the heater, then it would be completely reversible if needed
I wouldn't recommend smothering the enclosure. These printers have fans, so I would block them. You can insulate the lid... but leave the base alone. But yes, this heater make things even simpler 😁
Thank you for the detailed tutorial! I have my printers (FDM and resin, including curing station) in ventilated enclosures so I simply put an incandescent 60W light into the resin enclosure (not inside the printer cover, of course). It improved my print results for sure. I also sometimes use a small crock pot (it came with the big one to be used for melting chocolate I believe) to pre-warm the resin itself. I can somewhat control the temperature by changing the fan speed of the enclosure. I love tinkering so maybe in the future I'll try this setup. Reminds me of the time when I hooked up my wine cooler to the fermenter I had inside to control fermentation temperature :)
That's excellent thinking Sven. I've been thinking of using larger enclosure myself using a couple of 5w 220v LEDs. These give off a surprising amount of heat and would only cost me 10w and hour as opposed to 100w with this heater. The only drawback is the additional space required 😁
@@vogman Luckily I have my own office and the space available. I have my FDM and resin enclosure as well as my airbrush booth on the window side and vent everything outside. The nice thing about the light is that you can place the resin bottle close to it and it will pre-warm, too. Just one work of caution when using LED lights. I once tried to check if I had bits floating around the resin vat after a failed print so I placed it over my LED desk lamps (5500 or 6000 K). After that, I had stuff floating around that reminded me of skin on hot milk and I'm sure that came from the LED lamp. Make sure you get LEDs that will not interfere with the resin...
Great video, thank you for putting this out. I did run into one issue that I'm not sure if you or anyone else has encountered. I'm I'm using all the same parts as outlined in this video, but it seems that as soon as the heater starts warming up, the thermostat cycles with an audible click, flashes 888 in both fields, and then resumes heating. It does this ever 2 or 3 seconds. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!
This looks good but are the recommended connectors (shown at 05:10 ) suitable? I have these they seem to get awfully hot. edit: So personally I would not use one of the connectors mentioned at the timestamp above, it's not enough it risks a fire. I used some xt30 connectors, maybe overkill rated for 30A they're small and cheapish.
Very nice video, definitely useful as i'm planning to set up an enclosure with fume extraction and needed to figure out heating, putting the heater element inside the printer definitely seems like a much better idea than heating up the entire enclosure.
will be doing this for mine :). BUT, notice the weird light anomaly, or ghost orb at around 11:25 to the left of your printer cord :) right where you say 'straight UV light'. It appears, goes in an arc angle, and vanishes.
This is a great guide, but I wish you'd touched on how you organized and spliced the wires in a little more detail. Looking at my partially assembled unit, I'm not sure how I'm going to cram all this wiring in the tiny space behind the controller.
So I have done this using a 24volt power supply and a 24volt ptc heating element however when plugged in it repeatedly turns itself on and off after 1 second unless I pull the plug from the power supply if I do not hook up the black wire from the heating element itself the device will remain on when plugged in I don't really know how to fix the issue or what might be the problem if it is the power supply not being strong enough or if the heating element is broken etc.
I normally print in my garage but can't in the winter so I bring it into my kitchen, which could be risky for other people in the house. I should use some sort of heater like this.
Exactly Phil. My work room is cool in winter - not frozen up, but cool... maybe 12 - 14C on a cold day. This is half of what's needed by most resins. Last winter I had a nightmare time. This winter, with a heater, I'm getting great prints 😁
Really nice idea. I've currently got a 40W Dimplex ECOT1FT tube heater mounted on the inside of a cardboard box, with the Mars 3 inside that box; with the intention being to build a proper enclosure with insulated walls in the future. It does mean it needs to be a fair bit bigger than the printer so the lid can be lifted off (at an angle) - or just left off while printing. As you note; the Mars 3 lid may be too small/curved to mount this smaller heater on the inside, but I suppose it should be possible make a new lid with enough space (and may even space for the little Elegoo filters).
Great video! Should have the parts coming tomorrow for my build and then my Saturn should have a nice cosy enclosure. Going to make a riser out of some 3mm foam board so I don't have to cut into my cover for cable clearance.
@@vogman that was my thinking as well. The 3mm will sit perfectly in the groove for the cover and a few small pieces around the inside will make perfect lugs for the cover to locate onto. Minimum effort, maximum results 😁
Nice one, I've built 2 of these for my Saturn's and work great. The LCD displays are cheap though, and have stopped displaying some characters after a few months use...
@@waynekinney3358 did u buy from the links? i only post links that i buy from and i have built my share of these heaters for friends and personal use and have not gotten a lemon to date. Even so it is chinesium so we never know what we get untill we do :)
@@X3msnake have you noticed the connection for the power adapter and the wiring for the heater getting really hot? Or is that just me? I followed the wiring diagram to the T
I was able to add a heater to my elegoo saturn using a fermentation belt for brewing beer. I glued the belt to the vat so I'm only heating the vat not the air in the enclosure. Haven't had cold enough weather to need it yet but will be trying this winter.
Thanks for posting this video. The other video I watched of the same design kind of skipped some of the wiring steps/explanations and even suggested using a lower amperage rating than what the heater is supposed to use. The thing I don't like about the design is the thermostat screen being inside the printer. Not only does this prevent controlling the temperature when the cover is closed (Not a big deal really.) But on the other video I watched, the blue section of the screen disappeared due to the filtering of the plastic shield. This tells me that the blue light emitted is close enough to the UV spectrum that I worry of curing the resin. Another solution to this is to add a small flip up/down shield to the design to block the light emissions.
Hi Greg, thanks for the kind words 😁😁😁👍👍👍 Lower amps? Sounds like the guy doesn't know what he's talking about, and when you're dealing with 10 Amps, which could easily kill someone, that's very dangerous. Interestingly I find I hardly look at the screen. I set the ideal temperature (for me 26C) and place it within the enclosure. Thereafter I just turn it on and leave it half an half. It soon gets pleasantly warm. You should be able to see the digits through most screens. I've placed mine inside red, blue and yellow lids just to test and I could see things were active. I hope this helps 😁
@@vogman yeah, the video maker found that the heater was not drawing anything near the rated 100 watts so he went to a 5 amp power supply. Still makes me nervous. I'm wondering if the 100 watts is the thermal energy rating rather than the electrical rating. Is it possible to turn the screen off without turning the heater off? It might have just been his camera, but he was using a yellow screen. The blue was still visible, but I'd estimate about 80-90% reduced through his screen.
Seems easier and safer to just use a reptile heating pad attached to the back of the printer and perhaps covering 3 sides with some insulation.. less fiddly and it's meant to heat a small enclosed area.. I saw someone else on RUclips do this.. I'm thinking of doing something similar 🤔
This is a fantastic find and a great tutorial on it. Now all I have to do is make sure that at least one of my machines is wrapped up warm enough for Norn Iron autumn/winter to print the body then repeat three times. Awesome video as always, keep up the good work.
Nice build had an extra one from Making active heating for my fdm printer. Surprised new resin printers don’t have these built in. Heck might open the possibility for more industrial resins since they can require higher temps.
In honesty Cast has been pretty good, but of course the cooler evenings are coming in now. But yes, I've been printing at say 22C at best. It's possible that a steady 26C might give me better detail 😁
Careful with those barrel plugs, I just tested mine with one and only had it running a short while and that sucker got HOT....8+ amps thru one of those might not be the best idea...
Anyone else having issues when using this heater? Mine is working fine when on "cold" and I'm able to program it but when I switch to "Heat" it fails a few seconds in, giving of a clicking sound and displaying "8.8.8" and blinking red :/ Please help!
As long as your workspace stays warm, it shouldn't be a problem. But if it isn't in the mid 20's Celsius, then potentially you might not be getting all the detail out of your resin. 😁
Excellent as ever. I will be making a heater now the winter is coming out of the electrical stuff I have on hand. I wonder if the temperature probe would be is best in thermal contact with the resin vat so that the temperature seen by the controller is related to the resin temperature and not just the latest puff of warm air from the heater. Eventually the enclosure would all reach the target temperature but I am sure there would be many minutes of lag if the device was sampling the air temperature, and one might start off a print with cold resin if one took the thermistor's measurement literally.
If you are a clever cookie, you could try and work out if you can steal 100w from the printers PSU, step it down to the voltage needed with a buck converter and deliver the power to the heater hidden inside the z axis housing :)
Maybe I missed something but Isn’t the fan supposed to blow air through the heater element? This means the fan should be in the back, and the element in the front.
Hello, nice video. I want to build such a heater by my own and have all parts and the casing. But do you have a good idea how to switch from the power supply unit to some kind of rechargable battery pack? I would prefer to build that heater so that it doesn't need an extra cable outside the chamber ...
ok, I did that exactly as you described, and it works, however after 20 Minutes the connector and adapter of the power supply begin to melt, so I turned it off. Could it be that the adapter which comes with the power supply is not rated for 12A?
I ran into an issue where the transformer, which was specced as described in this video would constantly cut out, presumably as it couldn't cope with the load of the heater, which is allegedly 100W(+/-25%) , so looks like I got unlucky and my fan is drawing in excess of the 120W power supply limit. The relay switch turning on and off is a classic example of voltage drop, now the fan and heater element can probably cope with a voltage drop, but the relay cannot! Brownout! @VOG, you need to add a warning to your video as there are a few people who are clearly running into this issue. Best case scenario, dissapointment, worst case, electrical fire!
Thanks for the share. I've never really been fully comfortable with this device (which wasn't my design) simply because it draws so much current. It's one of the reasons why I elected to design my own, low current heater. It achieves the same ends, a little more slowly and gently I'll admit, but I feel it's a safer choice. ruclips.net/video/2yfPKFgvmes/видео.html However, you are correct. Electricity is dangerous and really shouldn't be tackled unless you're confident in what you're doing.
A little late to the party but when I tried slicing the file in Lycee Slicer, it gives me an error saying the model/file has errors in it, even after it tries fixing the errors. When I tell it to slice it anyway, I noticed that some of the supports are semi-embedded into the sides of the model. Oh well. My backup plan is to use a temperature controlled heating pad meant for reptiles which I'll attach to the inside of the cover of my Anycubic Photon M3. The one I bought comes with a digital temperature controller which does a very nice job of holding whatever temperature I set it for.
Thanks for a great tute. Very well presented and very useful. I bought an insulated dust cover (ebay USD$25) and adapted the heater to that. Works great!
Being new to resin I didn't think this would be an issue but now I'm am realizing my print area is in the basement and Canadian winter is on the way...
Awsome video Master, thanks for the tip and more importantly for investing the time to create a build tutorial that have been missing from the start :)
I have added your video to the thinguiverse.
Thank YOU for this amazing share. It's a great build. It must have taken you ages. You have my respect sir. Great job!
@@vogman It was a iterative process back in the days of the photon OG. it took around 2 to 3 months development with a bunch of failed prints to get the supports just right to print in any printer, namely sla laser printers.
The design had to take in account less great resins and i ended up making custom screw holes in order to avoid cracked cases
My wish when I released the designs as public domain was that by now i would be able to buy a bootleg copy of my design from china at half the price it took me to build one.
Turns out that designing around off the shelf chinese parts probably means that any chance of a bootleg will be low since the margins on that would most likely be too low lolol.
Either way it is cool to have a diy part that still works after all these years.
I would consider throttling that heater down with a buck controller for safety reasons. A thermal runaway or broken fan on a 100W heater can lead to a burning disaster. It wouldn't be the first time a thermal runaway is responsible for a burned down house.
@@Bullshitvol2 PTC heaters can't suffer from thermal runaway by design. They are self-regulating and were specifically designed to run open-loop without any diagnostic controls. As the material heats up, its internal resistance also does exponentially, effectively self limiting.
I agree with VogMan.. thank you for sharing your build. Between you, Vogman, and some blender edits I now have a great little heater that has helped my prints immensely. You guys are awesome!
I'm actually using this heater for my Saturn semi automation project. One thing I would advise to anyone is grab a thermal fuse and place next to the ptc heater. If the fan fails, that heater, heats very quick and can potentially cause a fire.
Nice tip. Thanks 😁
Hello, can you clarify what you mean by "place next to the PTC heater?" And also suggest a suitable fuse for this? Thanks!
May I ask what type of thermal fuse would be best. I'm guessing it would need to be 10a but what would the cut off temp be.
Instead of drilling holes for wire in the lid, you can print adapter between base and lid, wich has a hole or slot for the wire
Excellent thinking.
Clever!
Did anyone do this? Im wondering how this would work? Thanks
It's a great design and used one for over 2 years myself.
Thank you for the mention and explaining so well how to build one ☺️
And that YOU for putting me on to this build 😁
I just wanted to thank you. I recently finished building a modified version of this PTC heater with an extended housing and a power switch built in. I shared it on Thingiverse in the remixed versions of the original the link you shared. Your video and the supply links provided in your description were infinitely helpful. It is well paced, concise, detailed, and made the project much easier and straight forward. I tend to run my house colder than most in the winter, and this heater has made it so I can reliably print again. So again.. thank you for posting this video. Also I hope you don't mind.. I captured a screen grab of one of your wiring diagrams, modified it to represent my build, and included it in the pictures for the build on Thingiverse. I made sure to mention your video in the description. This is a truly excellent video.
These little heaters are worth their weight in gold. I made a similar one when I got my printer a year ago. My printer is out in the garage - I printed throughout the winter with no problems. I'm certain this wouldn't have been possible without it. As usual, your explanations are very well articulated! Please never stop making videos!
Thanks for your input John 😁
Love your video! I will be adding this to my Christmas shopping list. However, rather than need a thermometer or device to check the temps...place the RTD into a glass of ice water. I do this quite often as an Industrial Automation Engineer. You can use a kitchen temperature device just to double check your glass of ice water. Seems like extra steps...but if you have OCD like me...make's life simple!
Once again...love your videos! This one has garnered a subscribe mate!
Thanks James, great to have you here.
That's a very clever idea... ice water, giving you 0c or 32f. Clever. Never thought of that. You've clearly got an engineer's mind 😁😁😁👍👍👍
I just want to thank you for the patient, well enunciated, and highly efficient and informative summary of the programming functions of the thermostat. The instructions are printed so small as to be nearly illegible, and what can actually be read is almost incomprehensible.
That's very kind 😁
I've been increasingly active on the resinprinting reddit page and heaters have come up quite a lot lately. Purely as a mostly plug and play alternative, I've recommended using a reptile heat pad for a passive heat source that can be mounted directly inside the printing chamber. I happen to have one from an old fermentation acceleration experiment I ran several years ago, but they can easily maintain a small, enclosed space up to 30*F over ambient depending on the size you use. My print room is also my utility room where my washer/dryer is, so when it gets cool enough to affect my print temps, I'll suddenly be urged to do laundry and run my dryer to my indoor entrapment box, but for those in other areas that may not want to fiddle with the electronics (and barring the day I don't have dirty laundry, haha) I'll be going this route myself.
I do like the work put into this solution though; good forward thinking, and having active temp control is really nice!
Tanks for the input 😁
Thank you for this, I ordered everything and have downloaded the heater body stl files, but what i have done is elongated the body an extra 20mm to give me a bit of extra space to work with, I highly recommend people do this, thanks again.
I was literally thinking about how to build a heated enclosure two days ago. Thanks!
It's that time of year I guess. Glad I could help 😁
Amazing! With this walk-through, even my mum would be able to make this! Awesome video as usual :))
Thanks Lujke. And thanks Luke's mom 😁
Vogman, a hero among the thorns. Thank you for your content.
Aw, shucks... thanks 😁😁😁
I've been using one of these since last year and it's a fantastic and simple solution that's very easy to put together. One thing to note is the check your printer to see if there's a good magnetic mounting place, the z-arm for the Saturn is non magnetic, so I ended up printing a arm to hold it as well.
Thanks for this. Good thinking 😁
Been using it for a year now, and makes a HUGE difference! Totally recommend!
Thanks for the feedback 😁😁😁👍👍👍
THX for the presentation however after seeing this I wonder why something like this is not part of the printers in the first place regarding that prints are so dependend on optimal temperatur when it comes to resins.
i think the prusa might have one?
Right?
If only this came out last week. I started building a small chamber heater for my VoxeLab Proxima using a 120w heater instead of the 100w you used. I was trying to design my own case for it to hold a W1209 temp controller, but then saw this video. Ordered the smaller controller you used and printed the case last night. Came out perfectly (it is temporarily in my spare bedroom all toasty) once the controller comes will wire up. I presumer the side circles on the case are also for magnet placement, so I can stick it on the side of the metal column.
Another VOG upload in my subscription feed = another great morning =D I built something similar last year, but mine wasn't as elegant. I had a spare generic heat controller from an old soldering iron and a solid-state relay. Mounted it all in a (much larger) box with a wall outlet as the output so I could plug in a small space heater. I used a bit of painters' tape to mount the thermocouple just next to the resin tray. When it drops below the setpoint, the outlet becomes live and powers the heater. I just pointed the heater at the printer. Crude, but it got me through last winter with minimal issues! =D
That sounds a practical solution 😁👍👍👍
@@vogman Yep, Harbor Freight here in the US sells a 12v heater unit that's marketed as an windshield defroster. It plugs into a cigarette lighter port in a car. It has what looks like the same heater block inside and a nice little mini squirrel cage fan. $15 USD.
Sounds perfect 😁
Great video! I live in Canada and have my printers in the basement. Having the resin at these higher temperatures makes a BIG difference. I have a similar rig but it is inside a Creality tent. The housing and magnets is a great idea.
Thank you so much for making this video! I have my printer in a pantry (with an exhaust fan to the outside), and it gets quite cold in the winter. This is exactly the solution that I needed!
Also, your channel is top 2 among my favorite 3D printing channels, keep your awesome videos coming!
You are so welcome!
Well, it wont be my next project (workshop is pretty warm even in winter), but this looks like a great little item. Well done to the guys that put this together! It looks bloody useful.
If you notice extra printers whirring away in your workshop, it's just me 😁😁😁
@@vogman No room! Buddy! And more on the way. It's like they're breeding. Which is a pity cause if printers bred I would save a fortune. What would you even feed a baby printer? Resin in a baby bottle?
Great project. It's on my to do list. I have my printers on very cold place... sometimes goes down to 6 degrees, so this is a great solution. Thank you VOG and has always a great video.
This is just the type of tool and instructions I might resort to. Thanks so much for sharing this!
Glad it was helpful!
I printed one of these for my OG Photon a couple of years back.
My setup is super jank but it works well.
I actually merged the thing with a new side piece for the Photon.
So I removed one of the the orange windows and put a plastic side in that I printed with the heater fitted to it.
very worth while having these, i added a ptc heater to the case permently rather than this solution. But they work so well. it annoys me that printers dont come with this built in.
This is very cool but I have one question, if you are using a power port on the heater why would you run the cable through the cover and then plug it into the heater. Why not just install the power port in the cover, you would get a more efficient seal, it would give you more room for the wiring within the heater body and the cover would not be tied to the cable making operation much easier.
I've (finally!) set up my 3d printer (Elegoo Mars 2 pro) also in the UK. The printer is in my garage so I also need to heat it. I put the printer in a Creality fire resistant fdm enclosure tent, and for heat I put together a little ceramic reptile lamp heater with thermostat which I mounted on fireproof plasterboard. To rapidly get it up to temperature I blow hot air in with a hair dryer. While printing it maintains 23 degrees C easily and consistently. The benefit of the enclosure is I can store my resin bottle in there to warm up too.
Do you have any issues with UV bleed from the lamp?
@@adurbe I'm using a ceramic bulb, there's no visible light emitting from it. You can also use heat bulbs that create visible light, they are toward the red/infrared end of the spectrum, I don't imagine they would have a UV issue, but I decided not to find out ;)
That sounds a very good idea. But I have to ask, don't those reptile lamps give off UV? I'm sure I read that somewhere. The lid should protect the resin of course.
Sorry, I should have read this first 😁
@@vogman The red/infrared bulbs also direct the heat (think heat lamps you see at restaurants). The ceramic bulbs radiate evenly, which seems more desirable.
I'm awaiting delivery of the parts but have already printed the enclosure (FFF version). For those without metal surfaces to attach, consider that one can place matching magnets on the outside of the cover to place the device anywhere desired.
Exactly. Magnets wherever you need them. They work great 😁
Did you notice that the sonic 4K 2022 model has a similar heater now built in. Although it’s controlled via the GUI and LCD
Great video as always.
I hadn't seen that... but it doesn't surprise me that Phrozen would once again lead the way 😁😁😁
I intend to print in the garage, living in scotland this is an awesome video, thank you
Id love to see a couple of test prints with and without the heater in winter. Would be interesting to see how dramatic the difference is.
I guess for that you'd need a consistently cold temperature.
That putty was a good stress relief... But I’d love to see you try some flexible resin 3d prints for video builds like this.
🎅🏻🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😂🍀🍀🍀😎
Great video.
I am going to give it a try.
However I decided to print the cabinet på an filament printer. It gives me a more sturdy cabinet.
Thanks a lot for this walk through - built it this afternoon (it works!) and will try it out in my Elegoo Jupiter tomorrow. I modified one thing: I connected the negative lead of the fan to the same position as the negative lead of the PTC heater. This way the fan only runs when the heating is on. Might mod change that if I find that this doesn't work as well.
Thank you so much for such an informative and easy-to-follow video - just finished the second of these heaters to keep my two resin printers printing reliably through the UK winter :)
I'm awaiting parts for my second build. I've been very impressed with mine too 😁😁😁
Hi everyone can i ask for some help? I just finished building the heater but i have an electrical problem with the power connector (it's the one suggested by VOG, where you directly wire the cables in. It heats up to the point of smoking, i can't understand where the problem is. i bought the exact same parts listed in the video. Thanks for any help.
Thank you for taking the time to put together this great instructional video. I just finished building one and it worked perfect right from the start.
Awesome video just about to print now I have all the parts only thing is have I missed the cable sizes that are required.
Even watching the vid itself is fun. Thank you for sharing!
Thanx for the how-to!
I will consider doing something similar when I start 3D printing! :D
Take care Geoff!
Thanks Cap. Take care buddy 😁
I love when you can print something for the printer. or anything useful! so cool!
Me too. I love the practical applications of 3D printing 😁
Probably makes a difference where the PTC heating element comes from. Mine doesn't manage to heat the printing chamber by even 3°C in 2 hours. If you take the Amazon reviews as a comparison, this also fits with the statements of other buyers
Thanks for sharing 👍 You made an excellent guide with easy to understand instructions.
Glad you enjoyed it! 😁
Looking forward to seeing your heater in action all the best Geoff 👍
Thanks Ian. Take care buddy 😁
Oh that is super useful. I don't understand why no printer manufacturers have even touched this built in or as an addon. I'd pay £99 right now for one that's designed to fit perfectly with my MonoX and I bet a whole lot of others would too. I wonder why no printers at all for resin have heaters and yet so many for FDM have heated beds? We know its necessary to print at above room temperature so heating is kinda needed. Anyway, call out to manufacturers to make something you can just slot in and go without the DIY!
RN I'm using our outdoor patio heater thing in the shed and get up to 28c ish before I'll even consider starting a print. Its made a huge difference to print reliability but I don't like to think about what that added cost of heating the entire shed is. It is nice being all warm and cosy in the shed though, so there is that plus to a bigger heating solution haha
Thanks Clay. Hopefully more printer manufacturers will listen (I believe a few already have) 😁
I'm going to try this, I'll also get a timer switch so it will switch off in time with the printer
Excellent video. Thank You. Alternatively, you could move to Texas where I'm at and enjoy a 24/7 46 Celsius HEAT box I call a garage. It does drop enough in the winter for my FDM printer to have issues though, but the winters here are relatively short and mild compared to most places. By the way, your instructions are so clear and concise even a complete novice should understand them easily. Screw Terminal A/C two wire adaptor!?!? Where has this thing been all my life!?! Buying a big pack of those!
Yess
😁
Thanks for this great tip, and how-to-guide. I've just ordered all the items, and can't wait for them to show up, so I can get back to 3d printing - The room I currently have my printers in has become to cold to print in, so I really hope this will make it possible to print over the winter :)
Thanks very much for the kind donation 😁😁😁
just got a flashforge foto 9.25 and its in my conservatory it get bloody cold in there, just managed to print the case perfectly and bought all the parts from amazon along with a 120*C fuse just in case. i fixed it in place with magnets outside the enclosure. works amazingly. thanks for the guide
Hi, could you explain where did you solder the fuse and what kind of fuse it is?
@@pabllok i soldered it into the positive wire before the heater element and slid it into some heat shrink without shrinking it and it fitted in between the heater and housing on one side, there is just enough room. i used a 133*C thermal fuse. I had also replaced all the wiring with silicone wire (14 awg)
Ehm my mars 2 is in my shed where its bloody cold, and it doesn't fail and prints super crisp.
I use water washable resin.
Thanks for this VOG, i've been doing mostly 3 hr prints i achieve this by immersing the resin bottle in a pan full of hot tap water
for aboot 10 minutes then shake the bottle for aboot 2 mins then pour, but like you say winter is coming
and with windows open for ventilation the resin will soon cool so again thanks!
Warming the resin through is a great approach, but as Angus showed us, even in Australia the temperature can drop enough to spoil a print.
Great video, thank you! My relay is causing the unit to turn off. Perhaps its a bad power supply providing too little current? Its the 10a 12v model but seems super lightweight and low quality?
great idea, i think i would just use another 4 slightly larger magnets on the outside to hold the heater, then it would be completely reversible if needed
This is a good idea. I was just going to buy a electric heated blanket put it over my saturn for the winter prints
I wouldn't recommend smothering the enclosure. These printers have fans, so I would block them. You can insulate the lid... but leave the base alone. But yes, this heater make things even simpler 😁
In brewing we have a heating element or pad and a temperature controller that plugs into the wall. A bit cheaper and no wiring. But it's not as keen.
If is works Casey, go for it 😁😁😁
A fantastic walk through for a great design. Great job all around!
Many thanks 😁
I've tried an enclosure hoping the ambient temp got above the minimum. It didn't so looks like this is what I need.
Thank you for the detailed tutorial! I have my printers (FDM and resin, including curing station) in ventilated enclosures so I simply put an incandescent 60W light into the resin enclosure (not inside the printer cover, of course). It improved my print results for sure. I also sometimes use a small crock pot (it came with the big one to be used for melting chocolate I believe) to pre-warm the resin itself. I can somewhat control the temperature by changing the fan speed of the enclosure. I love tinkering so maybe in the future I'll try this setup. Reminds me of the time when I hooked up my wine cooler to the fermenter I had inside to control fermentation temperature :)
That's excellent thinking Sven. I've been thinking of using larger enclosure myself using a couple of 5w 220v LEDs. These give off a surprising amount of heat and would only cost me 10w and hour as opposed to 100w with this heater. The only drawback is the additional space required 😁
@@vogman Luckily I have my own office and the space available. I have my FDM and resin enclosure as well as my airbrush booth on the window side and vent everything outside. The nice thing about the light is that you can place the resin bottle close to it and it will pre-warm, too.
Just one work of caution when using LED lights. I once tried to check if I had bits floating around the resin vat after a failed print so I placed it over my LED desk lamps (5500 or 6000 K). After that, I had stuff floating around that reminded me of skin on hot milk and I'm sure that came from the LED lamp. Make sure you get LEDs that will not interfere with the resin...
Great idea. Have a phenom and can only use on hot days or somewhere heated.
This should sort the problem out for you 😁
Great video, thank you for putting this out. I did run into one issue that I'm not sure if you or anyone else has encountered. I'm I'm using all the same parts as outlined in this video, but it seems that as soon as the heater starts warming up, the thermostat cycles with an audible click, flashes 888 in both fields, and then resumes heating. It does this ever 2 or 3 seconds. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!
This looks good but are the recommended connectors (shown at 05:10 ) suitable? I have these they seem to get awfully hot.
edit: So personally I would not use one of the connectors mentioned at the timestamp above, it's not enough it risks a fire. I used some xt30 connectors, maybe overkill rated for 30A they're small and cheapish.
Very nice video, definitely useful as i'm planning to set up an enclosure with fume extraction and needed to figure out heating, putting the heater element inside the printer definitely seems like a much better idea than heating up the entire enclosure.
Should definitely be cheaper than heating the whole workspace... and better on the environment too 😁
Thanks for sharing, will definitely be looking into this once I get my Phrozen Mini 8K in January. Great video and instructions!
Glad it was helpful!
will be doing this for mine :). BUT, notice the weird light anomaly, or ghost orb at around 11:25 to the left of your printer cord :) right where you say 'straight UV light'. It appears, goes in an arc angle, and vanishes.
This is a great guide, but I wish you'd touched on how you organized and spliced the wires in a little more detail. Looking at my partially assembled unit, I'm not sure how I'm going to cram all this wiring in the tiny space behind the controller.
So I have done this using a 24volt power supply and a 24volt ptc heating element however when plugged in it repeatedly turns itself on and off after 1 second unless I pull the plug from the power supply if I do not hook up the black wire from the heating element itself the device will remain on when plugged in I don't really know how to fix the issue or what might be the problem if it is the power supply not being strong enough or if the heating element is broken etc.
I normally print in my garage but can't in the winter so I bring it into my kitchen, which could be risky for other people in the house. I should use some sort of heater like this.
Exactly Phil. My work room is cool in winter - not frozen up, but cool... maybe 12 - 14C on a cold day. This is half of what's needed by most resins. Last winter I had a nightmare time. This winter, with a heater, I'm getting great prints 😁
Really nice idea. I've currently got a 40W Dimplex ECOT1FT tube heater mounted on the inside of a cardboard box, with the Mars 3 inside that box; with the intention being to build a proper enclosure with insulated walls in the future. It does mean it needs to be a fair bit bigger than the printer so the lid can be lifted off (at an angle) - or just left off while printing.
As you note; the Mars 3 lid may be too small/curved to mount this smaller heater on the inside, but I suppose it should be possible make a new lid with enough space (and may even space for the little Elegoo filters).
Practical thinking 😁👍
Ah, I missed that part. Mine is a mars 3 so good to know.
Great video! Should have the parts coming tomorrow for my build and then my Saturn should have a nice cosy enclosure. Going to make a riser out of some 3mm foam board so I don't have to cut into my cover for cable clearance.
The riser is an excellent idea, especially the foam. That's practical thinking. I was planning on 3D printing one, but foam is quicker and easier 😁
@@vogman that was my thinking as well. The 3mm will sit perfectly in the groove for the cover and a few small pieces around the inside will make perfect lugs for the cover to locate onto. Minimum effort, maximum results 😁
Nice one, I've built 2 of these for my Saturn's and work great. The LCD displays are cheap though, and have stopped displaying some characters after a few months use...
Thanks Wayne. It's lucky they're cheap, but disappointing if they only last a few months... but as long as they work, that's the important thing 😁
@@vogman I might just have a bad egg, keep up the great vids! :)
@@waynekinney3358 did u buy from the links? i only post links that i buy from and i have built my share of these heaters for friends and personal use and have not gotten a lemon to date.
Even so it is chinesium so we never know what we get untill we do :)
@@X3msnake have you noticed the connection for the power adapter and the wiring for the heater getting really hot? Or is that just me? I followed the wiring diagram to the T
I was able to add a heater to my elegoo saturn using a fermentation belt for brewing beer. I glued the belt to the vat so I'm only heating the vat not the air in the enclosure. Haven't had cold enough weather to need it yet but will be trying this winter.
Interesting idea 😁
This is great! I've been wondering how I'm going to keep printing through the winter in my garage.
I have printers in my garage too. I'll be building a few of these heaters 😁
Thanks for posting this video. The other video I watched of the same design kind of skipped some of the wiring steps/explanations and even suggested using a lower amperage rating than what the heater is supposed to use.
The thing I don't like about the design is the thermostat screen being inside the printer. Not only does this prevent controlling the temperature when the cover is closed (Not a big deal really.) But on the other video I watched, the blue section of the screen disappeared due to the filtering of the plastic shield. This tells me that the blue light emitted is close enough to the UV spectrum that I worry of curing the resin. Another solution to this is to add a small flip up/down shield to the design to block the light emissions.
Hi Greg, thanks for the kind words 😁😁😁👍👍👍
Lower amps? Sounds like the guy doesn't know what he's talking about, and when you're dealing with 10 Amps, which could easily kill someone, that's very dangerous.
Interestingly I find I hardly look at the screen. I set the ideal temperature (for me 26C) and place it within the enclosure. Thereafter I just turn it on and leave it half an half. It soon gets pleasantly warm.
You should be able to see the digits through most screens. I've placed mine inside red, blue and yellow lids just to test and I could see things were active.
I hope this helps 😁
@@vogman yeah, the video maker found that the heater was not drawing anything near the rated 100 watts so he went to a 5 amp power supply. Still makes me nervous.
I'm wondering if the 100 watts is the thermal energy rating rather than the electrical rating.
Is it possible to turn the screen off without turning the heater off? It might have just been his camera, but he was using a yellow screen. The blue was still visible, but I'd estimate about 80-90% reduced through his screen.
Seems easier and safer to just use a reptile heating pad attached to the back of the printer and perhaps covering 3 sides with some insulation.. less fiddly and it's meant to heat a small enclosed area.. I saw someone else on RUclips do this.. I'm thinking of doing something similar 🤔
This is a fantastic find and a great tutorial on it. Now all I have to do is make sure that at least one of my machines is wrapped up warm enough for Norn Iron autumn/winter to print the body then repeat three times.
Awesome video as always, keep up the good work.
Many thanks 😁
This is pretty awesome! Might make me one once my Elegoo Jupiter shows up!
Very useful on a larger print 😁
I run a dehumidifier in my print room... serves to keep room warm (85-90ºF) and humidity down around 15%
I prefer a cooler room temperature in honesty 😁
Nice build had an extra one from
Making active heating for my fdm printer. Surprised new resin printers don’t have these built in. Heck might open the possibility for more industrial resins since they can require higher temps.
It surprises me too. Hopefully printer companies will take notice of this 😁
Yep its 5c in the garage now it's winter ❄️❄️❄️
Yes... not happy printing weather 😁
Awesome video definitely keen to see how your future prints go. Especially keen to see how it goes with siraytech castable resin
In honesty Cast has been pretty good, but of course the cooler evenings are coming in now. But yes, I've been printing at say 22C at best. It's possible that a steady 26C might give me better detail 😁
Careful with those barrel plugs, I just tested mine with one and only had it running a short while and that sucker got HOT....8+ amps thru one of those might not be the best idea...
great stuff, this is what I needed
Glad I could help. Please don't forget to Tip the creator a little something. He deserves it 😁👍👍👍
Anyone else having issues when using this heater? Mine is working fine when on "cold" and I'm able to program it but when I switch to "Heat" it fails a few seconds in, giving of a clicking sound and displaying "8.8.8" and blinking red :/ Please help!
Another fantastic how to video! I just wish I had the time to make one.
As long as your workspace stays warm, it shouldn't be a problem. But if it isn't in the mid 20's Celsius, then potentially you might not be getting all the detail out of your resin. 😁
Excellent as ever. I will be making a heater now the winter is coming out of the electrical stuff I have on hand. I wonder if the temperature probe would be is best in thermal contact with the resin vat so that the temperature seen by the controller is related to the resin temperature and not just the latest puff of warm air from the heater. Eventually the enclosure would all reach the target temperature but I am sure there would be many minutes of lag if the device was sampling the air temperature, and one might start off a print with cold resin if one took the thermistor's measurement literally.
It's obvious you've given it plenty of thought. Nice one 😁
@@vogman Ah, I've been caught out before with temperature control gadgets. :)
Great video, but I wonder if anyone has found a connector that can take 10A? For me 7A was the maximum I could find. Thank you
If you are a clever cookie, you could try and work out if you can steal 100w from the printers PSU, step it down to the voltage needed with a buck converter and deliver the power to the heater hidden inside the z axis housing :)
I'm definitely not that clever 😁
Maybe I missed something but Isn’t the fan supposed to blow air through the heater element? This means the fan should be in the back, and the element in the front.
Hello, nice video. I want to build such a heater by my own and have all parts and the casing. But do you have a good idea how to switch from the power supply unit to some kind of rechargable battery pack? I would prefer to build that heater so that it doesn't need an extra cable outside the chamber ...
ok, I did that exactly as you described, and it works, however after 20 Minutes the connector and adapter of the power supply begin to melt, so I turned it off. Could it be that the adapter which comes with the power supply is not rated for 12A?
I ran into an issue where the transformer, which was specced as described in this video would constantly cut out, presumably as it couldn't cope with the load of the heater, which is allegedly 100W(+/-25%) , so looks like I got unlucky and my fan is drawing in excess of the 120W power supply limit. The relay switch turning on and off is a classic example of voltage drop, now the fan and heater element can probably cope with a voltage drop, but the relay cannot! Brownout! @VOG, you need to add a warning to your video as there are a few people who are clearly running into this issue. Best case scenario, dissapointment, worst case, electrical fire!
Thanks for the share.
I've never really been fully comfortable with this device (which wasn't my design) simply because it draws so much current. It's one of the reasons why I elected to design my own, low current heater. It achieves the same ends, a little more slowly and gently I'll admit, but I feel it's a safer choice. ruclips.net/video/2yfPKFgvmes/видео.html
However, you are correct. Electricity is dangerous and really shouldn't be tackled unless you're confident in what you're doing.
Thanks for this walkthrough. I will make one :-) very helpful and to the point ;)
Glad it was helpful!
thanks! just what I was looking for!
it works very well. Great Job! Thanks
Thanks for the feedback. I love mine 😁
A little late to the party but when I tried slicing the file in Lycee Slicer, it gives me an error saying the model/file has errors in it, even after it tries fixing the errors. When I tell it to slice it anyway, I noticed that some of the supports are semi-embedded into the sides of the model. Oh well. My backup plan is to use a temperature controlled heating pad meant for reptiles which I'll attach to the inside of the cover of my Anycubic Photon M3. The one I bought comes with a digital temperature controller which does a very nice job of holding whatever temperature I set it for.
Thanks for a great tute. Very well presented and very useful. I bought an insulated dust cover (ebay USD$25) and adapted the heater to that. Works great!
cool guide... bought most of the parts but what is the power supply? dont want to buy the wrong thing..
You are missing the power supply on the part list in the description of your video FYI
Being new to resin I didn't think this would be an issue but now I'm am realizing my print area is in the basement and Canadian winter is on the way...
A Canadian basement in winter? Yes my friend. A heater will work wonders for you 😁