Resin 3D Printers don't NEED inbuilt heaters (TESTED)
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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The rabbits add so much. Thanks for being awesome.
Our northern hemisphere viewers must be laughing their heads off with Aussies calling 10deg c "cold"
My home in Minnesota got below -40 degrees. That's where F and C cross over. 😅
@@samhale5413 Ha, fellow Minnesotan here. Was planning to get a garage set-up going, but this video is giving me second thoughts 😅
10° is a warm spring day in UK
To be fair, he said "cold enough" for the test lol. He did not say that it was actually cold :D
I am atleast, Norway is so cold in winter😅
Hmm i might get a belt for my mars3 pro..
Your coldest night... At 7 degrees is an average day in Ireland 😂
Yeah man that's the truth, I print in the garage and use a brewers belt and no problems
Especially with this eternal spring weather we have right now. lol
@@scannerbarkly I thought it was eternal autum
I wish it was an average day here too, I hate the heat 🥲
-30 cel in canada sometimes even lower !
I used a brewers belt, but just wrapped it around the cover. I ran a cheap digital thermometer inside the cover and the internal temp went from 15 degrees to 27 degrees. I could then heat whichever printer I was using. The only downside was that the cover did become a little cloudy where the belt made contact.
I have one of these and never considered running it on the outside
Ah, I hadn't considered that either! Good thing know
Totally doing this
I live in Northern Canada and I use an old gutted mini fridge and a cheap $30 space heater to keep my resin printer warm. It’s in my garage which gets pretty cold and I have no problem maintaining at least 20 degrees. It can get down to negative 40C here but I haven’t tested it at that temp.
That would use a lot of electricity.
My printing environment stays at 15-16⁰C year round. All I've ever done is heat my resin bottle and build plate by sitting them in an old casserole dish full of hot tap water for about 10 minutes (no I don't also cook food in it) and then start printing. The thermo chemical reaction of the printing process in addition to the heat produced by the machines operation keeps my resin between 24-25⁰C at all times, back to back prints are awesome, cuz you cut out the pre heating the resin stage.
Proof the internet is watching, this video appeared in my recommendations the same day I ordered a blower heater from AliExpress as its substancially colder here in NZ over winter (single digits is the norm) and the outdoor room where the printer is can get close to that overnight and still not clear 15c during the day.
Im glad to see a simple but well preformed test to show the benefit of warm resin and im hoping my old Saturn (original, g1, Saturn 1 😕) can be made useful in these cold months. Thanks
I'm in NZ too and brought a brewers belt last week lol.
I just got a slim desktop heater off amazon for half the price of ones "designed" for 3d printers. It's worked great for 18 months and coupled with thermostat temp control unit it's still less than either of the branded options. I did try the belt warmers and it sucked ass, annoying to clean your vat and I do get to below freezing temps in the winter and it could not keep up. The only thing to keep in mind with the blowers is that it's the ambient temp in the machine, not the temp of the resin itself which will always take longer to heat up than the surrounding air.
I bought the one that says “mini heater” that’s a top result on Amazon for a small enclosure before YOUCIDI brand I believe and it burnt out within like a month. Is that the one? It’s possible I just had bad luck. I didn’t realize the new mini heater for elegoo is basically a standalone unit. I figured it would plug in somewhere, but that isn’t the case. I’m waiting to see what OISS says about it. But I’ll likely cancel and pick up something else depending on his thoughts.
As an Aussie I can't thank you enough for this, I had not realised till recently how much temp affected printing and was then stumped on good ideas to increase heat as I had no way to economically heat the vat. Please do that Elegoo heater, I do have one on pre-order as I had ordered the Saturn 4 but i do have another printer that I definitely will be using a fermenter belt for.
Ooo. I had hoped my mini heater would come in with my Ultra 4. I haven’t been printing as it’s been too cold without it here. They told me August is when I can expect to receive my mini heater :(. I thought about the brewer belt, but I’m dubious because of the tilting Vat. Curious what your thoughts are, I’m sure I’ll see it in the video as well later. But I’ll pull the trigger now if you give me the thumbs up.
Also curious if you’ve thought about potentially making a print to enclose the build plate so we don’t have as much resin cleanup, or if that’s probably a no go, due to the spring mechanism.
to get fancy use an aquarium heater to warm up water that you use to liquid heat everything like a PC. RGB of course.
My print workshop gets very cold so I installed a heater and use a heat gun to check the temp. It takes 30 minutes before I get printing and never print under 19 deg C but best temp is 25 deg C + . I also have a heat shield in front of the heater outlet to deflect the air around the inside of the printer. Resin temp is one of the first thing I talk about when people complain about poor printing.
Try printint something higher... something that stick outside of vat. When I am using inside heater with fan, models get soft and while peeling off theu deforms creating something like layer lines. So I would stay with vat heater as its heating only resin.
Curious if there's a heat belt that will work with the tilting bed of the mars and Saturn ultra.
Does the heating belt work on the Saturn 4 Ultra with the moving resin vat?
Given enough preheat time with the build plate near the bed, the brewer's belt is a great low-cost option. The reason blowers work a bit better for the early bit of printing is because they also heat the build plate. $60 feels steep for what the Chitu blower is, but I guess that's all in the eyes of the beholder.
when it gets above 50f, I start sweating badly
I'm in Ireland, almost at the northern tip, so my garage drops to below freezing in the winter, before buying the chitu heater the resin was so viscous my single rail mars 4 DLP had difficulty lifting from the vat when doing initial layers, making horrible grinding noises, once I installed the heater I have had next to zero print failures, I keep it at the factory default 35 degrees, bonus feature is that the prints are easier to remove from the warm build plate.
hope the Anycubic M7 (non pro) will have a normal vat with no Pumps
huh.... I hadn't even considered a non-pro version. This might be interesting.
They should at least provide an alternative vat for summer. Maybe someone could design one to print out.
I had a fermentation belt wrapped around my vat with a 3d printed holder that pressed it up against the vat. Was a pain to get in and out but kept it snug. I used a temperature controlled outlet that had a probe that I kept in the resin vat itself and it worked great throughout the winter. Was very fiddly to take on and off but having back to back prints with no failures meant that I didn't have a reason to. I used to have a heat fan inside an enclosure but that felt really sketchy since those heaters are explicity stated to not run without supervision or in an enclosed space.
I live in Australia and I have found here that heating the resin with a hair dryer first works well enough for short prints like minis
More bunnies please
They're taking the rabbits to Isengard
My workshop is in my unfinished garage. In the winter I can't use resin printers at all in there. One trick is to simply run hot water on the build plate and dry it off before printing.
I've had the same kind of mixed results with a brewer's belt - better than nothing, but there is a real lack of control. One setting on many (for more cash you can get some control over voltage), they have no thermostat, so IF you can control the voltage, you'll need to find a way to measure temp (unless your fancy printer does it for you)... it's not a great solution if you are like me, and part of the fun of the hobby is precision.
I preordered that elegoo heater rather than order an existing one, as it seemed like the smallest simple unit and I don't need a heating option until late fall anyway. I have high hopes for it and will def check out your video on it.
I don't even have a 3d printer but I love your vids
just a theory, because the saturn 4 and the ultra uses a tilting vat could you not put the chitu heater in the base of the printer to heat the resin?? as heat rises and the base will lock in heat more
Great video, I have a fermentation belt with a thermostat works great, but it’s messy and annoying, I prefer my Gk 2 as it’s just much tidier as my garage gets to just above freezing in winter but no doubt $24 is better than an extra $400
Could you answer if the fermentation belt still works on the ultra? It seems like there is still enough room at the top even with the tilt, but I'm not sure.
Hmm. That Anycubic system with the pump is actually kind of interesting. Not just because of the heating system, but sometimes if you're using particles or pigments, the model doesn't displace enough space to keep things stirred up, so a pump system might help with that. I agree that it would add complexity, but I've run other peristaltic pumps before and it isn't too bad. Might make for a good diy project, too.
The problem with the that fermentation belt is that there's no temperature control. Some resins need even higher or lower heat for their ideal settings, so not great when you can't control it. I do see an amazon listing for one with a rheostat built in that I'll probably give a try, but there's no info on its highest temperature or length of belt.
My initial 3d printing experience was a few years ago and my printer arrived at the very start of the Adelaide winter. I spent ages dialing in hundreds of tiny variables and was very near quitting and tossing the thing. Until september rolled around and the temperature in my garage got up to 18-22 and suddenly my prints were great. Without a heating mechanism, I've just been blasting heaps of prints in the summer and painting in the winter. Thanks for helping others with this very useful info
I live in SA also and people that start 3D printing don't realize how important resin temp is. Happy printing
Can't wait to see your review of the s4 ultra and the heater. I haven't seen anyone talk about the heater yet, elegoo also released a resin detergent the other day, that could make for an interesting video down the line too!
Unfortunately the fermentation belt is too bulky for the tilting vat of the Saturn 4 Ultra. However I heard that ThermalVATBAND (custom, thinner, and more expensive) can fit.
Thank you for this video. I got my first resin printer in the January-February time frame and I was having a lot of issues at 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit. I did eventually get the printer to successfully print some models because I’m stubborn but have been looking into different heating options for next winter.
Where I live, in winter, we get below 5 degrees. What I do is heat the resin bottle in warm water and heat the plate with boiling water before printing, then I cover the printer with a towel. To date I have had no problems with that method.
Just rember to say the correct prayers to the Omnishia when removing the towls to check your print. Wouldent want to upsett the machin spirit. Espacily on something with "Mars" in the name
@@yoschiannik8438 Ave Deus Omnissiah - praise be the machine god.
Ah I literally just ordered the Chitu systems fan 2 days ago. Rip affiliate link
I use a heating mat originally intended for plants that I attached to the (inside) cover of my humble Mars 2 Pro.
It has a built in limit (and thermometer) of 30°C after that it will stop working and start again if it goes below that.
The advantage is that it heats the whole inside of the printer in an even way since it is the size of the whole cover of the Mars 2 Pro and it will heat the build plate and the vat with the resin.
I generally let it run 1 hour before printing and the lowest I went was 12° or 15° C.
It cost me something like 30 € and once installed with double sided tape, it stays in place with no problems but I could take it out easily since it's taped and not glued.
I actually got a first generation heater addon like a year ago had to drill ahole in the acrylic top, it worked great until the fan died, so it keeped heating to dangerous temperatures and it almost burned up... but again for the while before that It worked really great, it had a temp censor and you could determine the temp etc. and was really small, smaller than all what you showed (minus the belt)
I have a heat belt on my Halot One+ and it works great! I'd love to put one on my Halot Mage 8K, but there isn't enough clearance at the back of the Resin Tray for a belt. The Chitu heater is currently £70 here. Wham Bam do an ultra thin heating belt which would probably just fit on the Mage, but the price is extortionate and shipping from the US would be ridiculous. I've built Vogmans light bulb based heater for an enclosure, so I might have a go at his blower heater
I use hair dryer xD just heat up resin (only 8k need it above 20*) and than printer keep temp by itself xD, or just dont use 8k resin and if u have room temp 20* u dont need any heating LOL!
I have an enclosure (Wham Bam) plus small heater from Amazon. It's heating the enclosure, not inside of the printer/resin, but it works perfectly for me. I also bought cheap fermentation belt from AliExpress, but I'm scared to use it. While testing, it got very hot. I was scared it might burn my garage. But I wonder, how good would the fermentation belt be with Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra and moving wat?
Personnaly, I bought an "external" heater for 15Euros (external because I can't implement it insided the printer..too big). My printer is outside on the balcony but in a self-made wooden enclosure. I set the heater on 30°C 45min before prnting session and everything is fine. The heater just heats the atmosphere and seems to make it work....0 fail this far (10 months). Yet that heating belt is very interesting
I had 2 prints fail al the end with a big model crashing into the vat rupturing the fep film on my halot mage. Twice in 3 days only to realize now it was the lower temp that prob caused the bad bed adhesion. Fml. Those fep films are not cheap and such a pain to replace. Ive gone through 6 of them already
All developers should make separate versions. This way you'd also keep the price lower and more affordable, thus bringing more customers, ones that may not need all those extra features.
I still have my Mono X, have no problems printing in winter, never had. Even during the night, when outdoors temperature drops, indoors temperature is around 18-20 degrees.
How “tight” was tight? I’ve got a Saturn 3 and there’s a couple of mm gap around the bat with the belt. I’m in Melbourne and it’s usually pretty cold at night, but I do have an old wardrobe I’ve fitted with foil board to keep it insulated (both winter and summer)
ahahahah10C!! omg.. its cold here in brazil today.. 25C :) but aways a awesome video :)
i JUST recently bought the Chitu blower, and havent had a chance to try it. however, i knew it was going to work, because i used to have just a bog-standard small space heater blow at my Mars 3, and i would prop up the lid so the vent system i have installed (the once in a six side system) would suck sir in from under the lid, effectively warming the inside of the printer, and that mcgyver system worked just fine.
had i known about the fermentation belt, i may have started with that, because i love being cheap. also, had i known Elegoo made their own, i may have bought that one instead as well, since i have an elegoo printer
What are the dimensions of the Anycubic heater? Can only find the shipping package dimensions on their website and amazon...
Great video, thank you so much! As a query; I've heard the belts do not work on the tilting vat of the Saturn 4 Ultra- any truth to this? I'd additionally heard that aquarium heaters stuck inside the hood of the printers can also be a very easy, cost efficient solution. Again, is this something you'd heard of and ruled out, or not yet tried? At any rate, kudos for another entertaining and informative video. So glad I subbed!
I have a Mars 2 Pro and unfortunately I can't run the belt round the vat whilst running the print, but preheat the vat for about 10-20 minutes to get the resin up to 28-30C
In the Spring and Summer that's been enough and in the Winter I was running the belt round the outside of the printer and printing perfectly well even in ~6C temperatures in my garage.
I am considering switching to an in printer enclosure heater just for ease of use if it will fit.
I have two of the Chitu Systems heaters for both of my Saturn 3 Ultra. I find they do work really well, but my machines are in my basement where the ambient temp is typically above 65 F but rarely over 70 F. I do let the resin pre-heat for an hour or so before starting prints or after refilling post-print before starting a new print. I'm looking into a self adhesive heating belt for my Mars 5 Ultra that is on pre-order due to the space limitation inside of that unit.
Would there be any problems if the resin were too warm? I have a detached garage and it gets pretty hot in there during the summer.
ELEGOO blocks the exhaust vent! Why would they do this...?
Everyone goes on about cold resin printing, but I live in Florida and about to get my first printer. How hot can we get before failure happen also how about humidity levels. No one has answered this questions yet
Thanks for the video (for us in the frozen north) do you think there's enough clearance for the belt to work with tilting vats? For cold testing you could try to find a free/2nd hand beer fridge/chiller with a glass door, they might be big enough for the large printers to fit?
Can your resin be overheated? Like for example the ambient temp in my garage this time of year is usually around 35c/95f
I don't know how I feel about circulating hot air around the chamber, it feels like it would evaporate volatile compounds faster on the surface of resin like wind does to water
also your rabbit is adorable, huge
When you add an fermentation belt, you HAVE an inbuilt heater.
Anyway, good video.
How well will that belt work with the tilting vat on the ultras?
Hopefully he talks about it in the ultra 4 review. Waiting to hear his impressions
Seems really weird they're not using silicone heater pads like fdm printers. Self adhesive would stick to the bottom of the vat easily.
Are u familiar with the ThermalVatBand line. Their “band/strap” heaters are brilliant, much cheaper to run too.
Of course it doesn't need build in heating if you add heating it using a third party measure 🤣
It's simply nice to have it build in, so it can preheat the resin, start when it is ready and turn of when it's done. It's a genuine quality of life feature for us living in the cold regions.
I put my mars 3 pro vat on a hot water bottle for 10 mins before a print and we all good every time. Then I’m not wasting power on heating the space overnight.
I've been looking at heating solutions as although its summer right now up in the northern hemisphere I know that in a couple of months its going to cause some issues. A brewers belt might just be the thing, thanks.
So the saturn 4 had no issues with the tilting vat and the brewers belt? nice. I have a mars 5 that has a tilting vat too and thats my main concern.
Love the rabbits!
Picked up the brewers belt based on the recommendation (2 degrees at night will be an interesting test)
the intro was great you could almost hear what the guy was saying over the shitty background music
-2c here. brrr. I use reptile heating pads to keep the resin bottles warm, then cover the printer with mylar and a sleeping bag to keep it warm when printing
Thank you for this great info!
Always love the videos. I appreciate your sound approach to tests, too!
I just got the ultra 4 would this work as well since it has a different function and can u do a follow up video with also how to clean the build plate
Hello daddy cool. Finally a new video.
Certainly not in the sweltering hellhole that is my workshop in a California summer.
I just strap the fermentation heater to the printer lid , it heats the whole chamber well enough that the vat , resin and bed are all nice and warm
Putting a heater in my print enclosure solved so many failures for me.
I have the chitu systems blower... I live in scotland and it can get really cold here. it's currently the middle of Summer and the thermometer in my printer room is showing 15 degrees C. (in the winter it can get WAY below zero here. So even in the summer I still need some kind of heating
I've printed in the winter with the chitu blower when the room temp was below zero and everything printed without flaw. (I've had it about 7 months so I've done a LOT of printing using it and have had no issues since) the coldest I ever printed using the blower was minus 5 for the room temperature and the little blower had no issue keeping the inside of the printer at around 22 degrees C. (I normally run it for around an hour before starting the print) I only have a little photon mono 2 so it heats up pretty quick because the build/air volume is pretty small. Obviously the bigger the printer you have I would suspect more pre heat time would be needed.
I had tried a brewers belt before getting the blower but just couldn't get it to sit snug enough on the vat for it to work properly. (again probably because the vat is so small)
the blower is a pretty snug fit inside the mono 2 but it does fit
sure the chitu blower is expensive for what it is but it does the job and is way more precise than a belt regarding the temperature you set. as it will turn on/off the heater as required where as a belt is a one temp thing that you don't have much control over
I'm really happy with it and it works well for everyday use with a sample of MANY MANY prints so it's consistant.
another thing to mention is that if your resin is heated it should in theory allow you to print faster with shorter exposure times as the liquid is less viscous so can flow below the build plate easier than cold gloopy resin. (after getting the heater I had to recalibrate for the new temps and the difference was around 0.4 seconds per layer so not a huge difference but enough to put a dent in print times for large models with a lot of layers)
Awesome to hear about your extensive experience! The heater is definitely a solid little unit.
I live in Canberra (Australia, for those non-Aussies), and it gets cold here in winter. I often leave my printer running overnight, and it can get down to 13C overnight in our home (colder in the rooms at the back of the house, where the printer is.
I am yet to have any issues with cold temperatures affecting my prints. My resin of choice is a 75/ 25 mix of Monocure3D’s Rapid and Flex100 resins, respectively.
Just lucky, I guess…
Cheers,
It really comes down to the resin, which is why I chose Phrozen's for this video because it was a sure thing to fail in low temps. I've similarly had no issues printing with other resins in my house which also gets cold overnight during winter.
How do you handle the cord opening a gap and the smells escaping?
I bought an Elegoo Saturn 2. It sucked. Absolute POS. It produced good prints when it worked, but most of the time, it didn't. Even using the best custom supports on my models it failed over and over and over. Adding a heater band did help, but not enough to save the printer. Even after sanding-down the back of the vat to reduce the air-gap, still it doesn't work.
I bought a secondhand Uniformation GK Two and it has been a champion. It works and works and works, it is the printing experience I'd only heard other people talk about. So why all the dislike for the GK2? I'd buy a cheaper printer, but what are the options if not an Elegoo? What other printer is there besides the GK Two? Anycubic don't have the best reputation, and Phrozen haven't impressed for a while.
If the heater in my GK Two _significantly_ reduces the lifespan of the light source, that's bad, but just how bad is it? Are we talking 50% or 5%?
The problem is there's currently no manufacturer right now producing printers out of China that don't have some number of QC issues in their history.
Everyone's factory spits out a lemon from time to time, and it sucks fucking ass when it's you who gets the lemon. I know, I've had my own lemon. So when you then get another printer and it's not a lemon, it seems like that brand is the bees knees, when in reality all brands are capable of producing great 3D printers, provided you don't get a lemon.
The GK2 is no exception, if you go searching you will find the users with lemons complaining on reddit and discord servers. A pain exacerbated by its high price tag, and flimsy construction.
Link the belt to a high low thermostat with thermometer. Works well as it's not on all the time
That ebay seller doubled the price since the video -___-
The chitu solution looks good, but seems quite overpriced for what it is (heater, fan, thermal relay... ?). I'm looking forward to what OISS has to say about that mini heater actually. I don't understand the struggle manufacturers seem to have with the idea of a heater.
I can't imagine most users care significantly about the carbon purification which doesn't even reduce VOCs but just reduces smell, they just want a heater that keeps their resin at the same temperature consistently. Even their mini heater has a carbon block in it and blows the hot air upwards, which is really dumb. The whole thing is so frustrating.
you can build you ow for cheaper but that doesn't come with a warranty or long term safety testing.
I cover the Saturn 3 Ultra in the box it came in, cover it with a blanket, and pre-heat the enclosure with a space heater. It went a long way to prevent failings on Elegoo's ABS-like resin, which appears more sensitive to temperature than the other Elegoo resin's I've tried.
Oh, dude, I only now noticed that d6 on your logo is "wrong"
Will the brewers belt not mess with the Saturn 4 Ultra tilt system?
So funnily enough when I had a mars pro, the original, when resin printing at home was new this was something i ran into as my major, huge problem. any outdoor temp change vastly effected quality. I ended up buying a DIY chicken egg incubator kit and after some careful dremeling, mounting the cermaic heater PCB to the inner hood of the printer and holes for the buttons so I could adjust the temp without taking the hood off. Worked perfect till the screen died as expected on those old traditional non-mono printers.
It's worth noting the nice thing about the ceramic egg inculabor heater unit could be toggled on and off, temp set, run for hours on end, and heated *everything* under the hood. plate, vat, etc
A comment for the algorithm and the rabbit's
Am I the only one that used a kombucha strap heater?
Why don't they just put a cheap heating element on the top of the build plate? Every time it dips it moves the resin around and the heat will spread evenly. I might actually try this mod on my anycubic mono (yes the original 2k one that is 50 microns in a 6 inch screen).
Keep me posted! I'm keen to hear about your results
I’m experimenting with the Anycubic heater. I think an advantage of chamber heaters is that they keep the build plate warm when preheating.
Temperature has not been a problem in my experience.
Printing in my spare room, window open in the Scottish Highlands through winter, with no heating in the room at all.
Never had a single issue printing cold like that.
What brand of resin are you using?
put the printers in an enclosure, old cupboard. you only need some initial heating in the cupboard, not inside the printer. then turn it off. it will maintain itself at 25-30°C even in winter.
if you are printing large items, having stable temperature is also important to keep the print dimensionally accurate, in winter it gets too cold for the resin to cure properly where live.
I gather the belt is even more useful in places with consistent lower ambient temperatures (like your case on constant temperatures below 10°C).
However what is the result difference against only using the belt or any other means to just preheat the resin prior to the print being started? (i believe there is an exothermic reaction constantly occurring that unless exposed to consistent low temperatures could be enough to mainting a workable resin temperature)
if its like 60F it can barely self heat, but unless you have turbo settings it wont make enough heat to relly on.
Very few if any have ever made the statement you are trying to prove wrong. The answer is no they do not need inbuilt heaters, but if they don't then you need to control the environment that it is in. I have had extremely bad luck with anything below 75F if the resin type is particularly viscous.
I hate video's like this that do not actually ask or test a legit theory and just make some shit up that is easy to prove because they question that is being asked isn't a question at all. This video shouldn't be about whether an "inbuilt heater" is needed it should be about what temperature should the resin be kept at and various ways to keep it there. One way being an inbuilt heater.
I dunno man I see countless comments of people saying this and that printer should have an inbuilt heater. Basically every printer I get in here that doesn't have one I see that comment.
I felt it was a decent title given the amount of times I've seen it talked about, plus RUclips straight up doesn't work if you can't think of intriguing titles!
Thanks for the feedback, hope you enjoyed the video otherwise!
Got to say, I miss the concept of reviewing peoples patreons and/or minis. Only so many times can i hear that this printer i haven't heard of doesn't come with features i didn't know existed.
Got another big haul planned soon like the recent Space Marines vid. Keep an eye out 🫡
I like the belt
Note: the Elegoo heater is NOT adjustable. It's hardwired to 25 degrees C and will continually switch on and off to maintain that temp. If you want to go hotter (or colder), you're out of luck. Some engineering resins want much higher temps - up to 28 or 30 degrees. Additionally, while the unit may detect a temp of 25 degrees under the printer's lid, there's no telling if the resin or build plate will actually reach that temp. I suspect, especially in particularly cold climates, that the Elegoo isn't going to be enough to get the resin up to speed and keep it there.
An alternative to the brewers belt is the Thermal VatBand. Similar idea to the brewer's belt but it's stuck to the vat with adhesive. A lot more expensive (too expensive if you ask me) but apparently you can run three Vatbands off a single power supply, which would be handy for those running multiple printers (though it will require additional parts like a splitter so price is still crazy)
For my money, I like the Anycubic one for ease of use and consistency, but you'll need something smaller, like the Chtu one, for small printers like the Mars' or Phrozen mini.
I never knew all these issue being a Form lab user.
Great vid, I ordered a brewers belt for my Saturn 4 Ultra, but didn't stop to think "will this work with the tilting vat". So when you try the Saturn 4 ultra, give it a go putting the brewers belt on it for us viewers, might save someone $12 if it doesn't fit.
Great vid. I personally prefer the blower style units, at least with my M5s Pro it works perfectly. With my S4U, I just ordered the Mini Heater along with the printer, but my little heater isn't shipping out in Canada until August -- which is fine, and it makes sense that Oz would get their heaters first.