This worked great! Checked the copper line locations at least four times before I was confident in the spot I wanted. As soon as I punched through, tons of water started draining out for at least 5min. Thank You!
Thanks for the video, while I did drill a hole, I was to afraid of hitting the copper line to get all of it out, so I added a wicking cloth in the back to get most all of the water out. My bedroom AC window no longer freezes up inside on the evaporator (rendering it useless), and the air in the room is no longer humid like it used to be before the fix. Triple Thumbs Up.
Thanks for giving me so much credit, but honestly a frozen evaporator coils happens when there isn't enough airflow from either a dirty air filter or dirty fan blower motor or dirty evaporator coils.
@@koreymayo8884 this POS air-conditioner I bought from costco 3 years back, does indeed freeze up new out of the box, trust me, I know, I took three of them back to Costco because it kept freezing up out of the box, it wants to default to eco mode, which is guaranteed to freeze it up. So I found running the fan speed at constant high speed, regardless of cooling conditions greatly aided in preventing it from freezing up. Meanwhile when the compressor was not needed it would splash the water around inside and blow humid air into the room, stupid design also splashed water through cracks and crevices onto the evaporator core, which is why it would constantly freeze up, low air flow and splashing water, which also caused the humid room. while the Costco AC was a POS, I was able to get it to stop freezing up if I left temp above 64F at night, and as long as the outside air stayed above 80F or so and left the fan on constant high speed, no eco or auto mode. It was a poor poor design, which is why Costco sold it so cheap, with WIFI and app control. So back to my statement, we have now had several below 60F nights outside when I went to bed with 72F outside, and I am now running the AC at 63F inside and it is not freezing up anymore. So there is no doubt the water draining is what solved the problem of it freezing up at night and solved the high humidity in the room. So Woot Woot, draining the annoying water is what made it work better and help prevent the unit from freezing up. Nothing else was changed. Cheers.
@@Bill4USA wow that's terrible. Next time I definitely recommend getting an LG brand. I'm hoping to get a new LG window AC this month and then doing a review on it.
I did this with my Midea "U shaped" unit. It was gurgling and spitting water all over on the outside and just didn't sound quite right. It's been rainy/humid for days now also. Two small holes took care of it. I can always plug them if/when needed. It's brand new and I didn't want anything to start corroding or growing!
I think manufacturer should at least have a hole with rubber plug or something to give buyer the option wheter they want to drain the water or leave water inside for splashing the coil with the fan... consumer paid for the item so it is up to them how they like their AC operate.. :)
Every window ac sold in the US has the same standard drain hole, it has a special shape that locks a drain fitting into place. The problem is, 99% of manufacturers do not supply this fitting. The drain plug adapter can be purchased at any hardware store or Amazon, EBay, etc. Match it to the hole, push, and twist. Add a small piece of black tubing and good to go. I make a killing on these fittings. It’s a $3 fitting plus the hour (the min.) I charge the customer for labor, plus tax for literally a 5 minute job. Usually $130 to come out and install a $3 fitting and 19 cents worth of tubing. But I’m sure this comment won’t make the smallest dent in my wallet. 🤣💰🇺🇸🔧
Always drill the holes. The water makes the rear fins clog with dirt and dust much faster which reduces efficiency, it also causes mold. The water also attracts bugs while sitting in the pan.
I went back and forth with the idea of drilling a hole in mine because I understand the idea behind evaporative cooling. Problem is, I live in New England and our summers are humid as hell. The AC has water in it all summer long. It only takes a month or so for the AC condenser to become clogged with debris. On top of that, I've read evaporative cooling is less effective in humid climates so, I decided to drill a hole and the coil now stays clean the entire season and requires only a quick rinse before storing for the winter. I'd be willing to bet a clean condenser without water cooling it is better than a condenser with muck from the slinger ring all over it.
Problem is my AC unit has no drain and the materials inside are rusting just after 6 months use. Like if your going to design your unit like this at least make rust proof
I was wondering the same thing, I wonder if it was designed to use that water coz I noticed the puddle is near the coils and the drain hole is far way from it.
A good compromise for efficiency vs. corrosion is to remove the cover and drill 2 holes at the sides under the condenser coils, and plug them with rubber stoppers. Now you have options. You can remove the stoppers after rain or when the unit is not in use to let it dry out. When restarting the unit you can plug the holes, and even pour a cup of water into the top of the unit (avoiding the motor.)
One thing I don't see anybody saying who says "drill a hole" is to take the air conditioner indoors tilt it up so the controls are at the top let any and all water drain out into a sterilite tub or something and then take the screws out very carefully slide the casing off then drill several holes in the casing so you know you're not going to hit any coils or anything then put it back together then it drains a lot better
I never got the reasoning behind that really stupid design idea. Nothing but problems from it. Window ac's worked just fine for years without it. I know the EXCUSE for it but it defies common sense !
My guess is besides the small efficiency gain they may get from wet coils, it breaks up the water droplets into more of a mist. Much more sidewalk friendly when walking by a tall building with lots of units. I drilled a hole in mine 30 minutes after installing because of the noise.
I have a unit that the lower left side is rusting out from water laying there, I put my finger through it the other day and cleared it out the best I could so I guess the unit and I made our own drain hole lol! I hope it is okay, we've had it for years but it still works good!
I know I bought a budget like $200 window AC but it's insane how there's not any drain holes! Like water is going to get into the thing no matter what and they really didn't think about adding a couple holes! This is y mold started building upnin my window ac so quickly!
Every window a/c sold in the US uses the same standard drain hole. That hole requires a drain plug adapter that 99% of the time does not come with the unit. That plug fitting can be purchased at any hardware store. Amazon has them, I bought 3 for $7. All you do is match the fitting to the hole, twist 90 degrees, and lock it in direction you desire. Add a length of black tubing to the barb end of the drain fitting, and point it away from the house.
Where did you come up with this nonsense. No they do not. They are designed to sling water to be more energy efficient. I haven't seen a drain hole on a small window unit in over a decade.
@@KRTube75 maybe you just didnt notice, many brands use the same standard small hole for the drain plug adapter to snap into, i know this, because I’ve thrown them on a ton of units, you can find the adapter cheap on the internet, and yes, the crappy window a/c’s do use that method to dissipate/evaporate condensation, and they are known to get nasty if not maintained.
I did just like you did but where I drained the hole was in the drip pan.. Alot of water came out but now I am like is this going to make it drain more water now? Or is this good that it does drain out now? Apparently water would just collect in drain pan and not drain out.
why isnt there a hole made by factory to begin with?? this is what confuses me .. I mean shouldnt they have known better or they designed it that way for a reason?
My AC is forced to sit way further inside than designed because I have and old house with double storm windows. I tried to set the AC a little further back, dropped it out the fucking window and into pieces. So fuck it, I’ll go without AC and cook. Can’t stand these new damn units. They don’t cool more efficiently, they’re much louder, and they drain right into the house. I’ll go out and buy some 25 year old GE.
Maybe they want it to collect water so it rusts out faster and then the unit doesn't last as long and then you have to buy new units more often, so they make more money off of people.
Most modern window air conditioners create condensation which drips down to the pan on the bottom of the unit. There are no drain holes or plugs used to remove the water as was the case with older style window AC units. When the water builds up it is distributed by the fan sling and thrown up against the condenser. This helps lower the air conditioner's temperature making it more efficient. If the amount of water is high the fan may create a sloshing sound as it makes contact with the water. This is the normal operation. If the water level gets too high it will drip out the back side of the AC unit. Make sure the AC unit is install properly, with a slight angle so that the condensation drains towards the rear of the unit.
I don't understand why people keep saying that modern unit's do this and old units do not. I collect vintage units, and every single one I have ever seen has had a slinger wheel and does the same thing. Even the ones from back in the 50s did this. It has nothing to do with new vs old. And NOT having the water sitting in the pan rotting everything out will increase the longevity of the unit much more than flinging a little bit of hot water around to "cool" things.
I have a new window AC which works absolutely fine and also drain the water but at the bottom of the AC it forms fog (tiny drops of water but it does not drop on floor) is there any problem in my AC or its normal?
Do you think this will work if the water is leaking inside the house because i wanted to pull it out clean it and then drill the hole but don't know if that will help if you can get back to me it'd be greatly appreciated
@@koreymayo8884 Wrong, Water draining in your house means that you have debris in the unit and have to clean it, it has to be really out of level badly for water to leak in the home and it would have happend from intall, it is almost always leaves and muck that is clogging the base. It needs cleaning once a year to funcion properly. it take 10 min if you are putting it in or pulling it out at the beginning or end of the season. 15min to pull it out and clean it. donot drill a hole as it cools the compressor. You will need to replace the unit very young if you run it with no water in the pan.
paying more money and voiding the warranty because it isn't splashing hot water around to cool the stuff vs a mildew/mold smell during the A/Cs off cycle because the A/C doesn't actually splash the entire drain pan but only a small part leaving a lot of the water to become a perfect home for mold/mildew... ill choose the first. Had to take my A/C cover off and clean the inside, there was so much build up after only 2 years of running it without cleaning inside. Been running it for a day, the smell is nearly gone so I may just need to flush it out with water soon to get rid of any hiding in places I couldn't reach. And to everyone that said "splashing is needed to cool down the A/C that's why there's no drain holes" is just plain dumb. My other A/C hasn't been taken apart since we got it maybe 15 years ago and it barely has any build up, it seems to be more efficiently designed to send the water to the fan AND drain the excess through a hole that isn't too high, AND IT ISN'T EVEN LOUD when it splashes, it's actually barely noticeable, and it has 0 smell, no rust despite some of the coating being rubbed off (may seal it next year), and still cools nearly as well as the first year. It's sad when newer A/Cs can't achieve this.
You hit an interesting point “why new ACs can’t achieve this”. I wonder if this is done on purpose for “planned obsolescence “ so you’re not holding onto one machine for 10+ years. Let’s look at it another way. When you first install it in the window and there is no water on the bottom, it works perfectly fine. The water that collects at the bottom is nothing more than melting ice build up as the refrigerant goes through its cycle of hot/cold. The water never enters the system. I’m sure you already know, AC is a closed system. The only thing passing through the condenser is air. A car AC works the same way and there’s no water passing through the condenser (unless you’re driving in the rain).
In this video you can clearly see a hole the size of a nickle coin. Why is the need for more holes? The real question is we all know including the cooler engineers that condensation will create moisture and eventually turn into water, if that is a fact, why the manufacturer did not drill the necessary holes and provided with engeniuos little hoses to drain water efficiently? why do they leave to the customers to stress, and to come up with sometimes Mickey Mouse ways to deal with water leaks????
Everyone saying “but the water cools the coils” never thinks big picture. The water is also rusting material, gunking up the rear coils (lowering efficiency), and creating a habitat for mild, mildew, and mosquitos to flourish. Unless you’re AC is perfectly sealed from outdoor (it isn’t), you’re getting a slight draft inwards and exposing your indoor air to the health hazards of the AC’s sitting water. It’s a nice idea, but a shitshow in practice. All this just to save a few bucks in efficiency? Not worth it. Drill the holes.
Functions just fine. Splashing water onto the coils is completely unnecessary and just encourages rust and makes the fan motor work harder and makes a lot of noise.
@@koreymayo8884 The water is designed to be there to wick away heat so the AC will have a longer life by not running hot. It is to cool the AC Unit. It may work better without the water but the AC's lifespan will be short. Clean the AC once a year by removing 5 screws and the top of the case, then getting the debris that collected all year out, leaves and muck. I would rather a rused AC that works than a clean AC with a dead compressor pump due to overheating. Ask yourself if all the manufactures leave the water by not draining all of it, why did all the manufaturers do it? DO NOT DRILL ON THE BOTTOM, Clean it and plug that hole or you are going to need a new one in just a few years
They still function perfectly fine. You may lose a negligible amount of efficiency. I have two $80 units that I drilled 10 years ago that are still going strong. The sloshing noise was so loud and annoying that everyone complained. Drilled the holes and no more sloshing. They are 5000 BTU and turn the 150 square foot rooms ice cold in the middle of 95F days.
@@derf727I’ve been forced to replace my window units every 3 months due to mold sickness. None of the Midea or Frigidaire models I had could be taken apart to be cleaned without voiding the warranty. These manufacturers didn’t consider Florida and Texas climates when they decided to let 2+ inches of water rot and mold in all these units, and I ended up with long term health consequences because of people telling me NOT to drill. The best bet in these climates is to drill, plug the hole, and drain it every day in the summer and on humid and rainy days the rest of the year. I’d be amazed to have one unit last me a year without getting me sick, and that’s why I’m installing a drain in my new one. I might actually have a chance this time.
Why did they do it? Because they are aiming for more sales by being able to advertise lower energy usage. Not because it extends lifespan. Window air conditioners are the only vapor compression system in the world that slings water on the condenser coil. Your central home unit doesn’t. Your refrigerator doesn’t. The AC in your car doesn’t. Nor does the systems in any of the dozen different systems in my data center. Drilling this hole will reduce the efficiency of the unit by a fractional amount. The unit will work just fine without that water, albeit using a tiny bit more electricity.
Drill a hole and you void the warranty. The water is now used as a coolant. If you want the water out at the end of the season just wick it out with a bucket and a paper towel or gauze strip.
My Mider throws as much water as air, I have drilled holes still water, shorted out Computer & Monitor. I have to put skinny sponges above the top and under where the air blows out. What A POS.
👌 ANY RESIDUAL DAMAGE IN FUNCTIONALITY OBSERVED YET. THE MANUFACTURERS WANT TO WARN ABOUT DEFAULTING ITS WARRANTY FOR EVEN SLIGHT CHANGES ...EVEN WHEN THEY ARE BENEFICIAL. 👌✅🤓
Before I found this video, I had just drilled a whole in my AC. Because the condensed water has started dripping inside the room. And I found out that at the bottom part where the water stays at the condenser, the fins are totally corroded and damaged.
Do not drill holes in the frame of window unit to drain water gets pick up to moisten the parts inside ac it needs some water in the frame best to clean water out with wet vac from time to time remember all window units need some water in the inside frame to work right that's why they sell this without a hole in the frame ok 🤔🤔
False!! Water rots the unit out once the rust starts. Look at how many 60s and 70s era units there are that work 100% but are rusted to shit. This is why. I always do a drain mod every time i restore an old unit!
WAIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Reading blogs on the net, it seems you are DEAD WRONG. Explanation: Frigidare, for example, states you void your warranty if you drill any holes. They state that water is needed in the collection pan because the fan throws water over the coils to help cool down the coils. ****** Your response ----->>>>>>
Meh!😕 Midea U inverter window ac’s are a piece of crap, aren’t even that much quieter, their whole “selling point” is a huge contradictory design flaw “can still hv window open anytime w/the unit in” (sure, if you like sharing ur home/room w/evry insect & any othr creature that can fly or fit in) so by the time you end up doing a bunch of “extra” lil alterations that most ppl wouldn’t think of or planned on bc they’ve been bamboozled by the disillusion of a “extremely quite window unit”; to make the thing even somewhat close (not really) to what it’s whole marketing strategy is based on, you could’ve just done those same things to a regular window unit & got the same “lil more quite” results, had a way more reliable unit that actually works/functions properly, cools the whole room/area, some cases adjacent/adjoining areas & for half the $$ OR just get a mini split
This worked great! Checked the copper line locations at least four times before I was confident in the spot I wanted. As soon as I punched through, tons of water started draining out for at least 5min. Thank You!
Thanks for the video, while I did drill a hole, I was to afraid of hitting the copper line to get all of it out, so I added a wicking cloth in the back to get most all of the water out. My bedroom AC window no longer freezes up inside on the evaporator (rendering it useless), and the air in the room is no longer humid like it used to be before the fix. Triple Thumbs Up.
Thanks for giving me so much credit, but honestly a frozen evaporator coils happens when there isn't enough airflow from either a dirty air filter or dirty fan blower motor or dirty evaporator coils.
@@koreymayo8884 this POS air-conditioner I bought from costco 3 years back, does indeed freeze up new out of the box, trust me, I know, I took three of them back to Costco because it kept freezing up out of the box, it wants to default to eco mode, which is guaranteed to freeze it up. So I found running the fan speed at constant high speed, regardless of cooling conditions greatly aided in preventing it from freezing up. Meanwhile when the compressor was not needed it would splash the water around inside and blow humid air into the room, stupid design also splashed water through cracks and crevices onto the evaporator core, which is why it would constantly freeze up, low air flow and splashing water, which also caused the humid room. while the Costco AC was a POS, I was able to get it to stop freezing up if I left temp above 64F at night, and as long as the outside air stayed above 80F or so and left the fan on constant high speed, no eco or auto mode. It was a poor poor design, which is why Costco sold it so cheap, with WIFI and app control. So back to my statement, we have now had several below 60F nights outside when I went to bed with 72F outside, and I am now running the AC at 63F inside and it is not freezing up anymore. So there is no doubt the water draining is what solved the problem of it freezing up at night and solved the high humidity in the room. So Woot Woot, draining the annoying water is what made it work better and help prevent the unit from freezing up. Nothing else was changed. Cheers.
@@Bill4USA wow that's terrible. Next time I definitely recommend getting an LG brand. I'm hoping to get a new LG window AC this month and then doing a review on it.
I did this with my Midea "U shaped" unit. It was gurgling and spitting water all over on the outside and just didn't sound quite right. It's been rainy/humid for days now also. Two small holes took care of it. I can always plug them if/when needed. It's brand new and I didn't want anything to start corroding or growing!
I need for someone to SHOW ME howto do this. I’m just seeing hole after the fact!
thank you so much! You saved me near 400 dollars!
I think manufacturer should at least have a hole with rubber plug or something to give buyer the option wheter they want to drain the water or leave water inside for splashing the coil with the fan... consumer paid for the item so it is up to them how they like their AC operate.. :)
exactly!
Every window ac sold in the US has the same standard drain hole, it has a special shape that locks a drain fitting into place. The problem is, 99% of manufacturers do not supply this fitting. The drain plug adapter can be purchased at any hardware store or Amazon, EBay, etc. Match it to the hole, push, and twist. Add a small piece of black tubing and good to go. I make a killing on these fittings. It’s a $3 fitting plus the hour (the min.) I charge the customer for labor, plus tax for literally a 5 minute job. Usually $130 to come out and install a $3 fitting and 19 cents worth of tubing. But I’m sure this comment won’t make the smallest dent in my wallet. 🤣💰🇺🇸🔧
@@the_gold_canopy mine doesn’t have the drain hole
@@lamplight1636 ok. So you have a newer crappy walmart a/c, correct?
@@the_gold_canopy Yes we do. What can we do since it doesn’t have a drain hole to connect a drain hose to?
Always drill the holes. The water makes the rear fins clog with dirt and dust much faster which reduces efficiency, it also causes mold. The water also attracts bugs while sitting in the pan.
I drilled holes. So glad I did it. No water sound. No mold/algae growth when I take it out in October.
I went back and forth with the idea of drilling a hole in mine because I understand the idea behind evaporative cooling. Problem is, I live in New England and our summers are humid as hell. The AC has water in it all summer long. It only takes a month or so for the AC condenser to become clogged with debris. On top of that, I've read evaporative cooling is less effective in humid climates so, I decided to drill a hole and the coil now stays clean the entire season and requires only a quick rinse before storing for the winter.
I'd be willing to bet a clean condenser without water cooling it is better than a condenser with muck from the slinger ring all over it.
Problem is my AC unit has no drain and the materials inside are rusting just after 6 months use. Like if your going to design your unit like this at least make rust proof
@@crankshaft007even more important to drill a hole.
Did you notice any loss in performance? Manufacturers design new AC units to use that water to cool coils. Drilling a hole changes the design.
I was wondering the same thing, I wonder if it was designed to use that water coz I noticed the puddle is near the coils and the drain hole is far way from it.
Zero! Nothing! House is still a refrigerator PLUS-no water noise. There were some days it sounded like I was trying to run it under water.
A good compromise for efficiency vs. corrosion is to remove the cover and drill 2 holes at the sides under the condenser coils, and plug them with rubber stoppers. Now you have options. You can remove the stoppers after rain or when the unit is not in use to let it dry out. When restarting the unit you can plug the holes, and even pour a cup of water into the top of the unit (avoiding the motor.)
You can install a rubber stopped underneath too
@@grazz7865 yes, that is best. I said at the sides but I meant on the bottom near the sides.
SMH Should of Seen your Video First
THANKS MAN GREAT INFO
One thing I don't see anybody saying who says "drill a hole" is to take the air conditioner indoors tilt it up so the controls are at the top let any and all water drain out into a sterilite tub or something and then take the screws out very carefully slide the casing off then drill several holes in the casing so you know you're not going to hit any coils or anything then put it back together then it drains a lot better
That's an excellent and safe idea, but I'm a lazy american and don't wanna do all that extra work lol.
Unfortunately for efficiency and safety standards I'm American so I'm just gonna send this bitch
I never got the reasoning behind that really stupid design idea. Nothing but problems from it. Window ac's worked just fine for years without it. I know the EXCUSE for it but it defies common sense !
My guess is besides the small efficiency gain they may get from wet coils, it breaks up the water droplets into more of a mist. Much more sidewalk friendly when walking by a tall building with lots of units.
I drilled a hole in mine 30 minutes after installing because of the noise.
I have a unit that the lower left side is rusting out from water laying there, I put my finger through it the other day and cleared it out the best I could so I guess the unit and I made our own drain hole lol! I hope it is okay, we've had it for years but it still works good!
Sweet video dude🤙🏼
I know I bought a budget like $200 window AC but it's insane how there's not any drain holes! Like water is going to get into the thing no matter what and they really didn't think about adding a couple holes! This is y mold started building upnin my window ac so quickly!
Mine leaks inside smh. Ridiculous they make shit these days
I didn't take the warnings and ruined my AC, don't just drill into the corners people.
Every window a/c sold in the US uses the same standard drain hole. That hole requires a drain plug adapter that 99% of the time does not come with the unit. That plug fitting can be purchased at any hardware store. Amazon has them, I bought 3 for $7. All you do is match the fitting to the hole, twist 90 degrees, and lock it in direction you desire. Add a length of black tubing to the barb end of the drain fitting, and point it away from the house.
Where did you come up with this nonsense. No they do not. They are designed to sling water to be more energy efficient. I haven't seen a drain hole on a small window unit in over a decade.
@@KRTube75 maybe you just didnt notice, many brands use the same standard small hole for the drain plug adapter to snap into, i know this, because I’ve thrown them on a ton of units, you can find the adapter cheap on the internet, and yes, the crappy window a/c’s do use that method to dissipate/evaporate condensation, and they are known to get nasty if not maintained.
I did just like you did but where I drained the hole was in the drip pan.. Alot of water came out but now I am like is this going to make it drain more water now? Or is this good that it does drain out now? Apparently water would just collect in drain pan and not drain out.
why isnt there a hole made by factory to begin with?? this is what confuses me .. I mean shouldnt they have known better or they designed it that way for a reason?
My AC is forced to sit way further inside than designed because I have and old house with double storm windows. I tried to set the AC a little further back, dropped it out the fucking window and into pieces. So fuck it, I’ll go without AC and cook. Can’t stand these new damn units. They don’t cool more efficiently, they’re much louder, and they drain right into the house. I’ll go out and buy some 25 year old GE.
not exactly suppose to do that cus the fan is designed to fling water on the coils to help cool but ig you can sacrifice some efficiency
I did it. House is still a refrigerator
How come they don't make AC units with drain wholes anymore ? My old one had one .
Newer units aren’t nearly as good as the old ones is why.
Maybe they want it to collect water so it rusts out faster and then the unit doesn't last as long and then you have to buy new units more often, so they make more money off of people.
@@koreymayo8884 planned obsolescence.
How can you fix a hole in the line, after being a idiot and drilling into it?
@@Marco-bg8jf take the case off and drill through the other side, avoiding any fluid lines
I just replaced mine with a new one... Doing this will void my warranty right?
No it shouldn't because some window air conditioners are sold with a drain hole anyways.
It was supposed to have the water in it.
Most modern window air conditioners create condensation which drips down to the pan on the bottom of the unit. There are no drain holes or plugs used to remove the water as was the case with older style window AC units. When the water builds up it is distributed by the fan sling and thrown up against the condenser. This helps lower the air conditioner's temperature making it more efficient. If the amount of water is high the fan may create a sloshing sound as it makes contact with the water. This is the normal operation. If the water level gets too high it will drip out the back side of the AC unit. Make sure the AC unit is install properly, with a slight angle so that the condensation drains towards the rear of the unit.
We know. However, the sloshing noise is so damn annoying and keeps me awake at night. Drill away!
Thanks for the explanation. So people really should just leave it alone and let it work as it was engineered to work.
@@Janzer_ - Exactly.
I don't understand why people keep saying that modern unit's do this and old units do not. I collect vintage units, and every single one I have ever seen has had a slinger wheel and does the same thing. Even the ones from back in the 50s did this. It has nothing to do with new vs old. And NOT having the water sitting in the pan rotting everything out will increase the longevity of the unit much more than flinging a little bit of hot water around to "cool" things.
2 holes needed. 1 on each side.
This noise are defect ?
I have a new window AC which works absolutely fine and also drain the water but at the bottom of the AC it forms fog (tiny drops of water but it does not drop on floor) is there any problem in my AC or its normal?
How about giving the measurements from the hole to each side of the ac?
I imagine each unit is going to be configured a little different.
Do you think this will work if the water is leaking inside the house because i wanted to pull it out clean it and then drill the hole but don't know if that will help if you can get back to me it'd be greatly appreciated
If water if draining inside your house then your window AC must not be tilted towards the outside with a slight angle.
@@koreymayo8884 Wrong, Water draining in your house means that you have debris in the unit and have to clean it, it has to be really out of level badly for water to leak in the home and it would have happend from intall, it is almost always leaves and muck that is clogging the base. It needs cleaning once a year to funcion properly. it take 10 min if you are putting it in or pulling it out at the beginning or end of the season. 15min to pull it out and clean it. donot drill a hole as it cools the compressor. You will need to replace the unit very young if you run it with no water in the pan.
paying more money and voiding the warranty because it isn't splashing hot water around to cool the stuff vs a mildew/mold smell during the A/Cs off cycle because the A/C doesn't actually splash the entire drain pan but only a small part leaving a lot of the water to become a perfect home for mold/mildew... ill choose the first. Had to take my A/C cover off and clean the inside, there was so much build up after only 2 years of running it without cleaning inside. Been running it for a day, the smell is nearly gone so I may just need to flush it out with water soon to get rid of any hiding in places I couldn't reach. And to everyone that said "splashing is needed to cool down the A/C that's why there's no drain holes" is just plain dumb. My other A/C hasn't been taken apart since we got it maybe 15 years ago and it barely has any build up, it seems to be more efficiently designed to send the water to the fan AND drain the excess through a hole that isn't too high, AND IT ISN'T EVEN LOUD when it splashes, it's actually barely noticeable, and it has 0 smell, no rust despite some of the coating being rubbed off (may seal it next year), and still cools nearly as well as the first year. It's sad when newer A/Cs can't achieve this.
You hit an interesting point “why new ACs can’t achieve this”. I wonder if this is done on purpose for “planned obsolescence “ so you’re not holding onto one machine for 10+ years. Let’s look at it another way. When you first install it in the window and there is no water on the bottom, it works perfectly fine. The water that collects at the bottom is nothing more than melting ice build up as the refrigerant goes through its cycle of hot/cold. The water never enters the system. I’m sure you already know, AC is a closed system. The only thing passing through the condenser is air. A car AC works the same way and there’s no water passing through the condenser (unless you’re driving in the rain).
In this video you can clearly see a hole the size of a nickle coin. Why is the need for more holes? The real question is we all know including the cooler engineers that condensation will create moisture and eventually turn into water, if that is a fact, why the manufacturer did not drill the necessary holes and provided with engeniuos little hoses to drain water efficiently? why do they leave to the customers to stress, and to come up with sometimes Mickey Mouse ways to deal with water leaks????
You do know that it flicks water in to the coil to cool the coil down it won't work as well now
he just screwed up his unit...
Everyone saying “but the water cools the coils” never thinks big picture. The water is also rusting material, gunking up the rear coils (lowering efficiency), and creating a habitat for mild, mildew, and mosquitos to flourish.
Unless you’re AC is perfectly sealed from outdoor (it isn’t), you’re getting a slight draft inwards and exposing your indoor air to the health hazards of the AC’s sitting water.
It’s a nice idea, but a shitshow in practice. All this just to save a few bucks in efficiency? Not worth it. Drill the holes.
Come to think of it, my refrigerator has no drain hole either!
Actually, the fan does use some of the water to splash onto the coils. You're draining all the water and it won't function properly now.
Functions just fine. Splashing water onto the coils is completely unnecessary and just encourages rust and makes the fan motor work harder and makes a lot of noise.
@@koreymayo8884 The water is designed to be there to wick away heat so the AC will have a longer life by not running hot. It is to cool the AC Unit. It may work better without the water but the AC's lifespan will be short. Clean the AC once a year by removing 5 screws and the top of the case, then getting the debris that collected all year out, leaves and muck. I would rather a rused AC that works than a clean AC with a dead compressor pump due to overheating. Ask yourself if all the manufactures leave the water by not draining all of it, why did all the manufaturers do it? DO NOT DRILL ON THE BOTTOM, Clean it and plug that hole or you are going to need a new one in just a few years
They still function perfectly fine. You may lose a negligible amount of efficiency. I have two $80 units that I drilled 10 years ago that are still going strong. The sloshing noise was so loud and annoying that everyone complained. Drilled the holes and no more sloshing. They are 5000 BTU and turn the 150 square foot rooms ice cold in the middle of 95F days.
@@derf727I’ve been forced to replace my window units every 3 months due to mold sickness. None of the Midea or Frigidaire models I had could be taken apart to be cleaned without voiding the warranty. These manufacturers didn’t consider Florida and Texas climates when they decided to let 2+ inches of water rot and mold in all these units, and I ended up with long term health consequences because of people telling me NOT to drill. The best bet in these climates is to drill, plug the hole, and drain it every day in the summer and on humid and rainy days the rest of the year. I’d be amazed to have one unit last me a year without getting me sick, and that’s why I’m installing a drain in my new one. I might actually have a chance this time.
Why did they do it? Because they are aiming for more sales by being able to advertise lower energy usage. Not because it extends lifespan. Window air conditioners are the only vapor compression system in the world that slings water on the condenser coil. Your central home unit doesn’t. Your refrigerator doesn’t. The AC in your car doesn’t. Nor does the systems in any of the dozen different systems in my data center.
Drilling this hole will reduce the efficiency of the unit by a fractional amount. The unit will work just fine without that water, albeit using a tiny bit more electricity.
Drill a hole and you void the warranty. The water is now used as a coolant. If you want the water out at the end of the season just wick it out with a bucket and a paper towel or gauze strip.
It's air cooled, not splash cooled ffs.
@@hbeezey
Uses the water too as a coolant.
@@hbeezey - Read the owners manual ffs.
My Mider throws as much water as air, I have drilled holes still water, shorted out Computer & Monitor. I have to put skinny sponges above the top and under where the air blows out.
What A POS.
Thanks Corey I was just about to drill into where the line is coolant line so you saved my ass ruclips.net/video/kXMW34w5plE/видео.html
how to screw up your perfectly engineered ac unit....
👌 ANY RESIDUAL DAMAGE IN FUNCTIONALITY OBSERVED YET. THE MANUFACTURERS WANT TO WARN ABOUT DEFAULTING ITS WARRANTY FOR EVEN SLIGHT CHANGES ...EVEN WHEN THEY ARE BENEFICIAL. 👌✅🤓
Nope still works just fine
Before I found this video, I had just drilled a whole in my AC. Because the condensed water has started dripping inside the room. And I found out that at the bottom part where the water stays at the condenser, the fins are totally corroded and damaged.
You might need to angle your AC more so that water drips outside instead of inside.
Do not drill holes in the frame of window unit to drain water gets pick up to moisten the parts inside ac it needs some water in the frame best to clean water out with wet vac from time to time remember all window units need some water in the inside frame to work right that's why they sell this without a hole in the frame ok 🤔🤔
The splash is intentional. Newer window models purposely use the evaporative water to splash back on the coils. It's intentional!
Never drill holes to drain water. Water is required to keep lines cooler. That's why there are no holes there when you buy
Lines are cooled and heated by refrigerant, not water.
False!! Water rots the unit out once the rust starts. Look at how many 60s and 70s era units there are that work 100% but are rusted to shit. This is why. I always do a drain mod every time i restore an old unit!
WAIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Reading blogs on the net, it seems you are DEAD WRONG. Explanation: Frigidare, for example, states you void your warranty if you drill any holes. They state that water is needed in the collection pan because the fan throws water over the coils to help cool down the coils. ****** Your response ----->>>>>>
You should have bought a Midea u inverter window air conditioner if you wanted it to be quiet.
This one is also very quiet.
It has NOTHING to do with the manufacturer. It has to do with the water not draining properly and causing it to "slosh" around.
Meh!😕 Midea U inverter window ac’s are a piece of crap, aren’t even that much quieter, their whole “selling point” is a huge contradictory design flaw “can still hv window open anytime w/the unit in” (sure, if you like sharing ur home/room w/evry insect & any othr creature that can fly or fit in) so by the time you end up doing a bunch of “extra” lil alterations that most ppl wouldn’t think of or planned on bc they’ve been bamboozled by the disillusion of a “extremely quite window unit”; to make the thing even somewhat close (not really) to what it’s whole marketing strategy is based on, you could’ve just done those same things to a regular window unit & got the same “lil more quite” results, had a way more reliable unit that actually works/functions properly, cools the whole room/area, some cases adjacent/adjoining areas & for half the $$ OR just get a mini split
The water is for coolling the condenser you void your warranty all new aircon now dont have drain anymore