The Cleanest Home Network Installation!
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Time for another network installation. This time, we will be installing a clean network for my old neighbor as he finishes his house. We run network jacks, plan access points, and install a rack! Let's get into it!
Tools I Use
Rack - amzn.to/3uaXB9y
Switch - amzn.to/3hY803f
Cable - store.ui.com/c...
Patch Panel (24 Port) - amzn.to/3CCZxKR
Patch Panel (16 Port) - amzn.to/3hSZiU7
Crimp Tool - amzn.to/3zyh6tq
Punch Tool - amzn.to/2Zd5UpK
Tone and Probe - amzn.to/2Zmcs5E
Passthrough Connectors - amzn.to/3EBOMdH
Keystones - amzn.to/2ZnFKkn
Wall Plates - amzn.to/3EHBBYF
Cat 6 Cable - amzn.to/3lHIdO0
MillerMediaSTL...
/ millerts_yt
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I stumbled upon this channel when I wanted to see the unifi setup process. You strike a fantastic balance of information quality while keeping it engaging enough that you don't fall asleep.
I know that this is quite old, but just a few points that I would like to give from one commercial network installation guy to another.
1) Please, for the love of god, don't use electrical tape anywhere in/on network cabling! After a few years it turns into black goo tar. If it's permanent connection, just use a CAT5e/6 110 splice connection. Its cleaner and less prone to failure over the long term, also the cables can be anchored on both sides.
2) If you run cabling through air vents, please use (CMP) plenum rated cable, not CMR based cable. I am sure that 99.999% of the time it will be just fine, but if for some reason there would be a fire CMR will burn toxic smoke, while CMR is more fire resistant than plain CM cable, CMP rated (plenum) will self extinguish and not put toxic smoke everywhere. NEC requires CMP if run in air plemum places like return air vents.
3) For the sheet rock guys, put covers (sandwich ziplock bag) over the cable ends and shove them in the boxes. This will help keep the huge amounts of dust and sheet rock much out of the jacks/keystones.
Other than those few nit-picks good job sir! 👍🤠
I cringed when he made two holes in the return vent. The owner could clearly afford to do a proper job rather than making unnecessary holes in HVAC system. I would have either consulted with another networking colleague or company to do a part I didn't know how to do.
Nice clean installation. I would have used Velcro instead of cable ties and terminated the ends after the drywall was put up. Other than that, you work is very neat. Great job!
I did a similar install for my brother. I added a 1U UPS into his network rack that keeps everything running for 1 hour if there are power outages.
As someone who has been doing these types of installs for 20+ years, I can say I have only had an issue with a ziptie causing cable issues once. As long as you keep it loose enough to spin and support the weight with something else (as you did with the J hooks), you'd have to be pretty creative in order to run into a problem, so I'm not sure where people are coming from always saying zipties cause cables to break.
I had a cable mess where zip ties were all over the place. We had to replace the lines because they were outdated cat 5. Never had an issue with them dying.
I did this for my job. I ran network and RG6 lines. I also installed hometheater equipment like tvs, amps, and speakers in new build homes.
If you're drilling joists, get the Milwaukee or similar cordless hole hawg. Much lower profile for narrow spaces.
Home store plumbing dept has plastic J hooks for plumbing up to like 3-4" pvc pipe, size is not a problem
Nice installation, I have seen people with much more experience do a far worst job, one system I worked on a while back I had to take an angle grinder to the rack cabinet to untwist the mess that the had occurred. It's always easy to get a tidy setup if work from scratch.
Nice clean job. Good to see young men doing a good job, good work ethic I hope. and a side note. The only reason I would live up north is basements. that is all
14:10 Cable Trays (Off-shelf or DIY) are very useful for those high density cable runs. Commercial users use that approach.
In difficult routing areas (between floors or basement-attic) I like to install conduit OR orange tubing/low-voltage pathway.
Great video! love seeing these keep up the good work
Nice humidor!
Great job on the wiring. I get so jealous of seeing videos like this. My home was purchased after the wallboards all went on and painted.. there were only three coax cables, ran in the entire house! And couple phone lines, but with only one pair of wires each. Horrible!
One thing I’ve noticed in your setup though, that Network rack is closer to that circuit box then I feel comfortable with for interference.
phenomenal video.... What I wanna know is what Mr. Evans does for a living, LOL... throwing around ALOT of money! haha
This was a very good video. First time I've watched your videos. I love watching this kind of content, and you made it enjoyable. Super nice "basement" tho really haha
Safety goggles or glasses when drilling above your shoulders. Been there done that.
Great job bro
I wish Miller was closer I would hire this kid!
Clean, quick and nice installation.
Would love for you to comment on getting the "PPPoE settings" for the AT&T connection. Everything I've seen is that the AT&T modem has to stay for their Fiber service
Following.
Following also. If you have AT&T Gigabit internet, I think you have to have the BGW210 running. You don't have to use if for Wifi----but you still have to have AT&T's gear. PLEASE let me know if this is incorrect....I'd love to ditch the AT&T BGW. ;)
Yeah, me too. As far as I know, this can't be done. I have AT&T fiber. I would love to get rid of that space heater-like AT&T router that does nothing for me, except heat up my closet.
Seeing u doing all the networking before the plasterboard is installed is so nice 😅 I decided to install Ethernet all over my house the only problem is the whole house is finished
Yeah that’s tricky, not impossible, but definitely a pain. Whenever I’m working in an unfinished area, I always suggest jacks everywhere because cable is cheap and access is precious. 👍
Good vid and good work! I'd suggest not using cable ties on the cables. Easy to over tighten & it increases the risk of damaging the cable jacket if you need to cut a cable tie.
great job
Definitely the cleanest ‼️🔥
Can’t wait 34min lol
I love doing network installations, however, I have rarely ever had one with open walls!
How do you do it with closed walls?
I guess through the floor?? I meant we would normally have to drill a hole and feed cable through rather than having the plasterboard already up
If you enjoy your sight, you should wear proper eye protection!
this made me laugh! thanks for making my morning better
Got my Food, Snacks, and Beer all ready to go.
The *BEST* solution to your problem is to ditch those old school patch panels and get yourself a keystone patch panel with some RJ45 keystone jacks.
Thank me later.
Well they’re twice the price and will never be changed again so... seeing as I already use them in certain applications, I think I can hold my thanks 😂😂😂 jk btw. For real though, they do make a big difference but he ordered the panel without my input and said it was the cheapest one... kinda pissed about it because I do prefer the keystone ones.
@@MillerTechnicalServices even if they're 3x the price, they'll save you plenty of time during the initial install & for maint. Pity client ordered without your advice.
@@zadekeys2194 Interesting when customers do stuff like that. But that's why the extra charges are tacked on. I love to see their expressions when they receive the invoice. 😱😱
Clean really you known the meaning of clean
Looking really good
Thanks 👍
Hey, overall pretty good. You clearly have some passion for this and have a lot of the technical knowhow.
However, there are a couple things that I wanted to make note of.
The cables going upstairs do not belong in that air return. Those are riser rated cables and putting them in a plenum space like that should have failed inspection. It shouldn't be a problem as long as there isn't ever a fire, but pretty much all of code exists to protect in the event of an issue.
I personally don't like carlon anything and would've gone with Arlington LV1 (retrofit) or LVN1 (new construction, nail) rings for all of the data. I think using a standoff bracket or ENT up from the locations into the ceiling space would help protect against damage of missing a stud or drilling/nailing onto a stud from at an angle.
I also would choose different wall plates. I think plates with the ID window (which can often have a colored plastic insert instead) are superior, especially for when things aren't quite level.
How staggered were the APs? Just wondering if they're fairly close or if they're more on opposite ends so they can offer better coverage at lower power.
1. Thank you
2. I did switch to Monoprice plenum for the upstairs runs.
Nice project! However, wouldn't it be (much) better to install the cables in flexible pvc pipes? Thats the way I've done it in my home at least: that way you keep the option to change things in the future without tearing walls down, and the cables are more protected as well.
Not when you have a budget to meet!
How much is this exact set up/ labour cost by any chance.
As long as the TV is close to an access point. I don't see a significant advantage of going wired over Wi-Fi.
why didn't you use a cable manager for the patch codes , that would create a nice look and prevent the door from bouncing back thanks for search a Nice video, I just liked that meshed front door of the rack. better than the glassed ones for air circulation.
i would have added a foot in the wall for service and two foot at the rack.
Nice installation. I would lable the cables while youre running them
They’re all labeled and there’s a patch sheet with cable numbers, locations, and patch panel numbers. I didn’t show that sheet because it has personal information on it.
@@MillerTechnicalServicesI think he meant so you didn't have to figure out which cable went where as you were terminating them at the patch panel. First time I've seen one of your videos. Very impressed!
I don't understand why people don't use piping for running cables... would make running it in future a lot easier? But nice and clean, good job!
The reason we don’t do that is because of the cost. Most people don’t even know what a Cat 6 line is so getting budget for two is already hard enough, the ability to future proof, these runs, nearly impossible for some. And in most cases, especially in the US, we generally have semi-easy access if we need to run some thing later. In my new house, I have 47 cat 6a lines, 3 fibers, and 2 conduits. The conduit run to where I know those wires will be changed often. When I can run conduit, I try to run conduit.
I'm disappointed the ziptie j-hanger wasn't shown. Tsk tsk tsk...
Piss off Lucas 😂😂😂
Great video, thanks. Are those electrical service panels live? I can't believe that electricians left the covers off them.
I’m not sure what state you did this job in but hopefully you have both an electrical and a contractor’s license to run power limited cables for hire. I believe you said you are using CMR riser rated cable that you can’t install in a HVAC return run. You need CMP plenum rated cable for that application.
1. Have one
2. Didn’t need it because the county doesn’t require permits or licenses for low voltage.
3. It is plenum. Just didn’t bother showing switching boxes.
Great Vid. How high are his basement ceilings?
12 ft. lowered to 10 ft. in the bedrooms and man cave.
Did the electrical inspection pass? Should be 2ft of clearance around panels...
It passed. The lines are coming in on the farthest side of the rack.
I asume that you labeled/wrote numbers on your cables? Ps why do you use zipties to bundle because after a while they will damage the cables. There are other ways that dpn't damage the cables, do you use them sometimes?
Yes I labeled everything and have a printed out list of all the ports. Didn’t show it because it has the names of people’s bedrooms. I have never had a zip tie damage a cable... ever... they’re designed for this. They can damage cables if one cable is supported and a bundle of cables is zip tied to that single cable without the weight being properly supported but that’s only something to worry about if you’re a complete moron who doesn’t take the time to do a quality mounting job with brackets, hangers, and other various support methods.
@@MillerTechnicalServices Never use peoples names for rooms or even "office" cuz they change. Use either numbers with a map\diagram or description like 2nd fl NW bedrm or SE bedroom etc. I ran across a breaker panel about 70yrs old and labeled with you guessed it names on room breakers.
Do you think most homes are fine with CAT6 or should we be installing CAT 6a now? I can see cameras are fine with CAT6
Hope you have lifetime tech service. Mr Evans seems pretty clueless if something happens...
I assume that the cable will be over drywall. Thus, how would you pull new cable through to upgrade it?
Only half of the basement is being finished and I can access most of it. Either way, the budget for this didn’t allow for conduit so there’s no way that capsule have been done. Also, this is a home. 10Gb can be done over cat 6 at about 100 ft. None of these runs surpass that and for their uses, even gigabit is overkill as their TVs only have a 10/100 port on them.
I will have this combo (at&t fiber + udm pro) when my home is finished. From what I've researched, the RG has to stay and double NAT can be an issue. Please update if you are able to ditch the at&t RG. Thanks much for the vid!
I also have the same issue, and would like to know what the plan is here, a video would be awesome. I'm followed these instructions m.ruclips.net/video/hKwyCsJU60I/видео.html to obtain the public IP for my UDM-PRO. I have the Pace 5268AC FXN as my att gateway, there will be different instructions for others
lots of isp modems have a bridge mode that you can enable so that it is just a handoff/media converter inline. works well for me when i can't connect directly.
@@travismeeks3083 but not the ones offered by AT&T for their fiber service.
Maybe that varies by region. While I use pfSense to completely bypass the att box, I was told, and showed a bypass mode for it to allow for a basic router to be used without being double NAT.
Somewhat off-topic and surely not of use to anyone here, but a fun fact: In Germany, we have legislation that mandates ISPs to let you use your own router. By law, they must offer a bridge mode if their service only works with their modem.
Interesting, wondering what you think about Starlink and if it will replace the home Network?
How would it do that?
@@estusflask982 Starlink everywhere, all the time.
You passed apprentice lvl. 1
Re long patch panels, a brush panel under the patch panel would take/hide the excess cable easily.
If new patch cables weren’t in the budget, neither were blank plates and brush plates for the rack. I did this job more as a favor based on things he purchased with some guidance. Although the only thing he actually ended up buying that I told him to was the rack and installation cable... kinda pissed that he took what I sent him and went out to find cheaper, worse products.
@@MillerTechnicalServices I hear you, it certainly sucks when clients choose cost over long term quality. Atleast you have him the option & he made the choice, not you, so the risk / any possible blame is off of your back. I'll never understand clients who say a $15 part is put of budget, yet buy a Ubiquiti switch / router.. I've been in this situation aswell, and I just give them a brush panel from my rack & get myself a new one. As they say its the small details that count.
keystone patch panel mannnn
Do you have a low voltage license?
Great video and very neat runs. Question: Any reason why you used high voltage gang boxes for your CAT cable runs and low voltage cables?
We already had them.
they are honestly preferable when its a rough in, mostly so its not in the way on the drywallers.
You had talked about doing VLAN's. Can you elaborate a little bit on what VLAN's you created.
Main, Cameras, IoT, and Guests
Great video. I'm curious as to your reasoning for going with a managed switch vs an unmanaged switch? Is the primary reason so that it can be managed remotely by you? Would you still recommend a managed one over an unmanaged one if remote management was not a requirement?
A managed vs unmanaged switch doesn’t refer to any form of remote access specifically. It refers to if the switch can do things like vlans and other fun stuff. Since we have a camera network, iot network, and main lan, a managed switch was necessary to get wired devices on the correct vlan.
im doing my home network myself. i have a 16 port unmanaged switch and 4 lines ran. im renting my cable modem and wifi router but i want to get my own equipment. i want myy own gigabit modem and im going to get a wired router and separate wireless access point. im also going to add a 4 port vpn wireless router. some ports will be behind a vpn, i will run 5 to 10 more ethernet lines. im getting a desktop computer. i have $800 to spend. i have the tools, rj45's keystone couplers.
Were the extra requirements communicated beforehand? Cos the extra cables mid way thru caused u to incur way more costs than just the patch panels alone.
Love it. Learned a lot. Why boxes instead of low voltage bracket?
They had a whole bag of them...
@@MillerTechnicalServices ok. Thnxs for the reply. Great vid!!
Oh no your broke one of my rules...never use zip ties always use Velcro!! Just my 2 cents to each their own.
You can't shape cables with velcro...
@@MillerTechnicalServices have you ever used cable combs? Sometimes they can take up time but your cables will look good in the end.
@@MillerTechnicalServices and you can't cut the jacket with velcro. A few people have suggested velcro, you really should try it. Don't assume that your experience of not damaging cables is the norm. Always be open to learn & changing your process for a better process / better tools.
What did the fish think of the fishing ?
Why did you choose the net gear switch rather than a ubiquiti switch to stay within the ecosystem? I’m asking because I intended to do a home network for myself later this year and want to save money where I can.
The equivalent unifi switch is double the price and seeing as 4 port are on a vlan and will never be changed, management isn’t really an issue.
does that box have a rear port for cables or only on top?
Top and bottom.
What is the Dream machine
What's up with building homes with toilet paper and sticks?
Completely random question, do you by chance know what recessed lighting they are using in this house? Around 4:07 you walk past one of them. My wife and I are starting the process on a new build and will be using recessed lighting and shopping around for it. Maybe I'll fly you to Texas to do my house haha!
I can ask. I’m going back in a couple days. I wouldn’t mind a trip to Texas 😂
@@MillerTechnicalServices I'll keep you posted dude! The house we are building is in Grapevine, TX. Keep up the videos, dig them for sure!
Is that CMP or CMR cable?
Both.
Why American homes looks like a movie set?
Why using flimsy wood as a construction material?
Why don’t they construct solid concrete houses like in Europe and India ?
Because we don’t want to be like the rest of the whole world. We even made up our own bs units of measurement 😂
No slack at all on the sockets? Hope they never need to be repaired. Nothing worse than being called to a client to repair a network issue to find the socket has zero slack to allow for repair
I have enough slack to do repairs. Enough for 2 easily. If you know what you’re doing, you don’t need much. I already had to do one after an accident with a drill during drywalling.
@@MillerTechnicalServices it's not about knowing what your doing, but about long term repair. 2x repairs is nothing over 5 years. You should have 10-12" of slack at the box's. This would allow for +-10x repairs.
@@MillerTechnicalServices you won't be the one handling the cable post install. The client could damage the connector, or another contractor could. Always have more than you will need, vs "just enough".
When you say “access point”, what does that refer to?
Access points are what makes a wired connection wireless. They’re the Wi-Fi makers.
Where's the cable management arm? 😂
Good. Job. Question: No need to use a backboard for the nextwork rack?
Not when you use 5 inch reinforced concrete compression bolts
ubiquiti makes some great networking gear, except their cage nuts, they are absolutely awful.
wtf what about miner lines?
One thing that I don’t like is that he’s only running one line for each room no redundancy
Hmmm, well most people barely know what Ethernet is so giving them a bill 40% higher for because “there’s redundancy”… not really worth it. Plus, do you regularly damage cables in the wall? If so, maybe hire professionals.
😳👌😲👍🏘️😍🇲🇽😎✌️✌️✌️✌️saludos desde mexico y salundame a mis primos de san diego y sacramento y los angeles 🤜🤛
Use a proper patch strain relief bar & always make sure there is enough slack so that you can flip the patch panel 180 degrees. Or just use inline couplers.
I can turn the panel fully and access all of the idc points. There is strain relief just not in the conventional way. Believe it or not, I actually know what I’m doing...
@@MillerTechnicalServices you seem like a humble guy on video but some of you comments come over as quite cocky. Knowing what you're doing is all fine and well until you learn a better, more efficient way to do things.
@@zadekeys2194 If I did work this good and had to deal with this bullshit in the comments, I'd be cocky too.
First thing I thought when watching video. Safety first. where are the eye protection and gloves at least.
Isn't the ground wire for the rack door a little bit too small? (sarcasm)
what? you don't want 10gbe Ethernet to the fish? oh come on.... lol
I KNEW I was forgetting something.... I'm so sorry for my failure
What internet speed he have?
Symmetric Gig
@@MillerTechnicalServices nice! Will make good use of the setup then...kudos on the job
Wow ..........eny one can make a video...........dude whay will you show to the all planet that........1
Uhhhh?
This would be my "worst nightmare" kind of thinking of a customer where you just fail telling him that if doing your entire living space from scratch and pulling cables anyway, YOU SHOULD DO A LOT MORE CABLES! 32 drops for 2 big floors in 2021?
Anyway, not your fault and I strongly guess you did ask him to do more to be future-proof =)
One thing though: You are using the 8 RJ45 Ports on the Dream Machine Pro as regular switch ports. Are you aware they are sharing a 1Gb/s backbone. I mean I do understand a customer like him might not push huge loads of traffic, but still, I usually try to consider a worst case scenario and thus use these ports for cameras maybe... or not at all.
Might make sense though to to ask him whether it wouldn't make sense to invest in a 48 Port PoE capable switch to have everything cabled properly according to structured cabling doctrine and have that switch connected connected to the UDMP via SFP+. This way he would also have some unused ports in the rack to use with a NAS, IP phone box, PiHole or whatever needs to be implemented over time.
Also, I don't know if his fiber provider offers this, but you could use a fitting GPON transceiver for the UDMP and not only get rid of the provider router, but also of the fiber-to-RJ45 adapter.
Yes I am aware of the limitations of the UDMP as a switch. I did this job more as a favor to him rather than doing everything the "right way". I would love to have done a few more network drops and install more rack devices but at the end of the day, he's a home user. All he cares about is that his family isn't complaining about the Wifi not working and having the ability to have a stable connection to his desktop for work. I believe I talked about ditching the ATT router in the video. Also, why would someone who is barely more than an average home user need more than 2 network jacks in every room, plus the ports for cameras and access points??? (edit: we did run 2 conduits for running more cables in the future.)
@@MillerTechnicalServices Hey this was not written to offend you, but just as a feedback.
Why more than 2 ports? Well, I typically put 6 ports just casually at any TV location. Every TV has a network port nowadays, an AVR, a console and a streaming device, that is already 4 ports and just basics connected. ...you don't want to put only so many network ports in a room as you need today. Also, you want to have ports on different sides of any room to not suffer a major cable mess. Single network jacks don't make sense from a financial perspective. So that is another 4 ports when having two dual ports on opposite walls in a room. Wifi6e is around the corner, Wifi7 being developed, clearly heading into a 60GHz direction, which will not penetrate any walls, meaning one with a need of cutting edge wifi speeds will need an AP per room, thus I typically pull a 10g capable AWG22 wire to a good AP location in every living and office room. Bathrooms, kitchens and hallways excluded. That already makes you end up with 5 ports for a typical room without TV, and 11 with TV.
That is not unrealistic. A typical office has an IP-phone, a private PC, a corporate PC and something like a network printer, so all 4 would be utilized from the start, which is actually an indication of not having enough.
Again, this is no offense and I do trust you would have pulled more if the customer would have been willing to pay. This is purely feedback on your question on wether more than two ports make sense.
I am well aware this is luxurious, but this is how I do it for myself and how I consult it to customers since it just makes sense for future-proofing.
I have to mention that I am from Europe and we mainly have brick&mortar houses where it is a lot more difficult to add things afterwards compared to your more drywall oriented way of building in North America.
For this job, we went pretty simple. Mr. Evans didn't want to go crazy with ports. I offered to put extra s behind the walls so they could be brought out if needed but he went in a different direction. And I know you didn't mean to be offensive. I didn't take it that way. I rewrote my original reply 3 times and each time it sounded slightly aggressive. I'm not too good with wording things that aren't analytical... so I said "f it" and just posted the third one :)
Also, stick around... when I do the network for my new house, I have 96 jacks planned so far... and fiber... and video... and audio... basically overkill on everything!
@@MillerTechnicalServices Will do, I like the way you are producing these.
Did the same thing basically, also pushing fiber of all sorts into the walls, but other than that I left it with loudspeaker wires. Did not put any HDMI or audio into the walls, but instead 60mm waste-water pipes from the AV rack behind the TV so I can wire everything hidden. Consider the same thing, mate, these HDMI etc. standards change way too fast...
2:11 phish
MIZZOU
... what
Terrible install. Don’t even know where to begin. Jhooks on studs that might be a finished ceiling at one time? Cables lose and not snapped?
are you on instagram too?
Not publicly
@@MillerTechnicalServices yet? haha great videos bro
More like Sloppy, running Ethernet next to Power cables. Enjoy your EMI.
What? That’s very good runs