Wiring up a small office network rack (moving 10)
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2024
- I installed a network rack on the wall with everything I need for my new studio!
Here's how I wired it up, and a general pre-move update.
Some of the things mentioned in this video (some links are affiliate links):
- P-Touch TZe White-on-Black Tape: amzn.to/3RiWVL2
- Toggler Snaptoggle drywall anchor bolts: amzn.to/4aaXq2z
- NavePoint 12U Swing Gate Wall Rack: amzn.to/4af09b9
- TRENDnet 24-port shielded patch panel: amzn.to/41faHmw
- TRENDnet shielded RJ45 keystone jacks: amzn.to/41neuhS
- Brady M210 Labeler: amzn.to/41hZJwB
- Brady self-laminating wire wrap: amzn.to/48bPYSK
- Netgear WAX620 WiFi 6 PoE+ AP: amzn.to/3uUlCpN
- APC wall-mountable 600VA UPS: amzn.to/4aaXGyz
- StarTech.com Cable Management Raceway: amzn.to/3ReAJlf
- QNAP QSW-2104-2S 10G/2.5G Switch: amzn.to/41cXF9f
- Home Assistant Yellow: www.home-assistant.io/yellow/
- SimpliSafe Security System: amzn.to/41i01Ud
- Fanless Mini PC (2.5G Router - similar option): amzn.to/3NnjXiW
Support me on Patreon: / geerlingguy
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Merch: redshirtjeff.com
2nd Channel: / geerlingengineering
Contents:
00:00 - Great suggestions
00:55 - Reversing doors and right-side-up outlets
03:00 - Construction progress
04:02 - A (hot) blast from the past
05:17 - Permits, licenses, and little fixes
06:15 - From crash cart to wall rack
08:01 - 4-post rack
09:31 - Cat6A patch panel
11:39 - Racking equipment
12:35 - Neat is nice 
Наука
Absolutely convinced everybody complaining about power switches on outlets are just trying to gaslight us brits into being mad...
They are jealous 😮
Agreed, it’s genuinely very useful and sensible, from a safety perspective as well
I’ve used them overseas and it was convenient, but not really necessary.
Could it be that they insist on the power switch because the mains voltage is higher at 220, which is inherently more dangerous than 110?
@@AlexKidd4Fun That certainly part of it. The switches also makes it easy to save power. You’re more likely to turn off a power switch right where you’re sitting than one across the room. You can also control individual plugs vice turning off two or four outlets at a time.
In Japan they sold power strips that had a switch for each socket. I used those a lot when I was building computers, or working with power tools like a soldering iron.
Since the rack can swing open, run your ethernet cords from the hinge side so that they won't impede with the frame swinging open. With regards to the cox being lengthy, just remember that it is better to be looking at it than to be looking for it. So much better to have extra length as opposed to not enough. A coax retermination is a one minute job.
microwave might be the only system that needs no update : two knobs, one for time, one for temp and that's alllllll.
If he got the rack I think he did the latch pins serve double duty as hinges allowing it to open from either side. However it's still important to pick a side as the "hinge" side or you can end up with the mess you warned about
@@SpacePotatoFilms Yep!
I'm glad to see that you are using unloaded patch panels those make stringing in and setting up lengths really easy. The one fail I see all the time though is not leaving enough service loop. The loop gives you a place to pull extra cable from if you have to replace a jack either because its bad or to upgrade the technology.
you can always leavee some of it in the ceiling.
Here's an important one: Grounding bar!! I'm not a lawyer or a building code specialist but every business IT room I've worked in has a dedicated copper grounding bar- especially when PoE is involved!
Grounding bars are good it you have large server racks. In Jeff case not needed. Which if he put one of those metal power strips mounted to the rack. Then the whole rack is grounded.
As far as poe powered swtch is involved it is low voltage and a ground bar is also not needed. also poe switches like any other metal device the ground wire from the outlet makes the device grounded and when its mounted to a rack it also makes the rack grounded.
Now I might be wrong on some things but This is just my opinion and points I took from my uncle who is a master electrician.
In a small setup, all the grounds (in the room) come together at the sockets (or power bars) as do the neutrals, so probably no issue. In turn all the electrical grounds meet at the main panel (and sub panels).
My network IEEE 802.3 af/at from PoE Texas is floating.
I love that you have your dad help you with projects sometimes. It's heartwarming and wholesome.
I secretly hope he will come around more often if I build a cool little electronics/RF lab area :)
You can just tell the dad is a good man.
Led strip, channel, or rope lights along the interior rails of a rack are always useful to better illuminate everything shaded by the structure. A little less useful with the swing arm, but might help for something.
Yeah, after seeing TechnoTim's rack, I'm tempted to put some rope lights inside all my racks!
@@JeffGeerlingRGB MAKES ALL YOUR LINK SPEEDS 1Tb 😂
@@JeffGeerling Plus using the RGB leds you can tie them into Home Assistant to give you quick look of network status like red internet down...etc. This will come in handy when you get a full size server rack.
You need a service loop for your cat6 on the back of the rack. With the tension you have there you've effectively tied the swinging rack door in place unless you pull down more wire from the ceiling, and thats not what we do here. I know you proably won't need to do that often but doing it now is less annoying than after you need to get the door open for some reason, can't find a ladder nearby, etc.
I don't think he will ever be able to swing it open anyway because the rack itself is mounted too close to the left wall. Sure with only the patchpanel there would be no issues but think about the depth of switches and other gear
If you route the wiring along the left side of the rack, and then along the back of the patch panel (which will make port 1 your shortest run, and port 24 your longest run) you don't need very much slack. You simply configure the rack so that it swings to the left when you open it.
@sitte24 Those Navepoints are reversible. I've installed them and they can be configured to open either direction.
Would act as a drip loop too, if the roof ever leaked the water would drip off the loop instead of following the cables down to the patch panel. I always leave enough slack for a drip loop because I'm paranoid, but it has served its purpose on one occasion and I was glad I did.
I know it is overkill but I would recommend a blank 1U above or below your patch panel. This way when you go to swap out your old switch in 4 years you have a spot to stage and put the new one. And if you put in short jumper cables you can keep it all clean with minimal downtime.
My plan is to put either a brush panel there or a 1U Neat Patch (if I'm feeling extra extravagant!). Easier to manage the cables that way too.
Tiny footnote, but @JeffGeerling where do you plan to get the short jumper cables?
@@davidhubbard7050 I have a set of thin cables I bought from Amazon (used some already in my homelab, the rest are in a little box here).
The wire through the keystone is so cool! Definitely looks like it makes the wiring easier.
It's the little things-I always had cables that were an inch too long or short before, this way they all naturally fall right into place!
This approach works, too, for just a few cables. For a thicker bunch there are so called cable combs.
@@dan-nutu Yeah and that other RUclips channel I mentioned has some great demos of a cable comb looming through like 20-40 wires! Definitely the way to go if you have more than 5-10 cables. Even with that, a comb would make the initial smoothing out easier.
Wish I would have used keystone panels years ago when I did mine. I think they were like $100/ea or something
Great to see things are coming along in the new office. Nothing like being able to get your network rack set up! This video came at a great time, just finishing up my rack installation. I will second that TCI Productions is a great channel to hit up for information on proper rack installations, helped make things look tidy!
So awesome seeing your building grow and turn into a awesome space.
It's so nice to see everything coming together!
You said local and then showed a place like 10 minutes from me. STL represent!
Mounting a 6U today for home inside my coat closet. Recently bought the UDM-Pro and it looks wrong sitting on the shelf with its ears sticking out. Can’t wait to see your setup when you’re all settled in. Congrats on the new office!
Good progress on the work inside! I'm enjoying the updates, but I can't wait to see a finished project walkthrough video!
If you haven't fully secured a 42U rack yet I may have a basically brand new APC 42U full cabinet. I'm located in the midwest - also this has been a great series to watch!
I have one on the way this week-thank you though!
I do, too. (dell) But they're nowhere near you. :-)
How did I not know about these rack stud things! The number of times we've struggled getting cage nuts and bolts in and out! Thank you, fingers saved!
They are great for up to I think 40 lbs of equipment. I may do some stress testing and a larger review at some point. Right now I'm just putting them through their paces at home and the office. Still need the cage nuts for massive server mounts!
You can consult NTP servers with an ESP32 as well! The built-in Bluetooth and Wi-Fi is really useful. When programmed with ESPHome, it sits in to Home Assistant as well! You could use the ESP to simulate button presses.
0:59 Yay! New character! Box-shirt Jeff!
So excited for you moving to such great space. I am happy that you are more comfortable working and that we are going to get top notch content! Getting my shirt from your store for Christmas!
Absolutely amazing content today! Sunday morning must be the day to drop a video. Makes sense everyone has all day to relax and watch YT.
Tons of homelab videos dropping this weekend too!
Feel so good to when building something like this, all the planning, execution so much to enjoy; I can even enjoy just watching you doing it; Good stuff.
Dr Pepper is definitely the superior soda of the three in your fridge! Also, a nature cam on the roof to watch the crows/birds would be pretty slick
Right on time. Planning on moving in the upcoming months so I'm just starting to plan for network equipment and rack. I also have the same drywall situation coming up.
When I renovated my house I put all cat7 cables inside the concrete walls. Best decision ever. My Netgear switch has 2x 10Gps ports and 8x 1Gbs ports.
I use 2x 10Gbs for PC and NAS.
Also drilled plywood board under the stairs and hid service loops behind plywood. Looks professional and everything is painted white.
My Virgin Media router switched to modem mode only and I use Google Nest as my router.
Very happy with the setup.
Probably will upgrade to Google Nest Pro in the future or just go to the wifi7 router.
Since the rack is already mounted, I'm a bit late to the part, but I LOVE my wall-mounted rack cabinet with swinging back. Swinging front is also ok, but swinging back turned out to be a real life saver. My rack is fully packed, but I can just unlock the rear latch, and I have full access to all the power cables and other gear mounted behind the devices, without needing to test flexibility of my joints. It was a bit more expensive than a fixed cabinet, but I don't regret buying it at all. It merges the advantages of a small, wall mounted cabinet, and a big free-standing rack.
Nicely done on the network setup. One thing that I learned the hard way regarding the cable modem is that style needs to be standing vertical. My cable company originally installed mine sideways to fit on my network rack shelf and it keep overheating and killed it. The tech that came to replace it said that it needs to remain vertical for cooling.
Great work with the network rack. It wonderful to see that you are getting an office. Keep up the hard work and keep doing a great job with the content.
I am glad that fanless PC is still running!
It's a tank!
Im glad someone finally uses the Schuko as a good outlet example instead of circlejerking around the UK plug.
Here in Denmark, we have outlets both with or without switches, and I would say, I love the ones with switches. Take for example the lights on the Christmas tree, if you don't have a switch on your outlet, you will have to unplug the cable and drop it on the floor, the next day to have to look for the cable, with a switch, you just flip it, and its off. What's not to like???
with smart tech now, just put the christmas tree on a smart switch, then you can program it to come on automatically
@@originalname74all our Christmas lights are on smart switches, including the outside ones.
Love the update and love the pro tip I learned for doing proper length runs
Just an FYI, those cable labels will get kinda crusty and fall apart over time, especially if they are in the heat for years. We use self-laminating labels printed off a BMP51 and they are great
Bump
I'd highly recommend some sort of lightning/surge protection between that cable modem and the router. I always put the cable modem on it's own power and put a fiber media converter on it's Ethernet. I had lightning hit a service pole in front of my house and go straight down the coax into my modem. Turned my modem into a charred maraca, scorched my keystone jacks, while taking 2 switches, 3 cameras, xbox, tv, and router down with it. For what it's worth the Arris Surfboard modems work great and have holes in the side of them for mounting them to plywood. Would work great in your setup. You can talk to your HVAC installer and see if they are able to put some actuated ducts in your setup. Linus' video "New House Smart HVAC" shows them around the 4:50 mark. You could close or reduce air flow to your studio with something like that if needed. That way the rest of the office could still have AC.
I really like the direction you're heading with the rack. You were talking about rack mounting the cable modem, and you could do what I did. I just bought a 2U static shelf on eBay and laid my modem on it. Slid it out to the edge so I could see the lights, and secured it with a small amount of VHB tape so it wouldn't slide around. Looks kinda jank, but it works. The little shelf also gave me enough room for baggies of extra screws, a roll of tape, Sharpies, etc... crap I always seem to need around the rack that I can never find when I need it.
TCI is great. I just found him a few weeks ago an inspired my to finish my home network rack. Especially with the modular patch panel.
Could watch you work all day. Great voice over job.
The amount of time you are putting to get everything done is remarkable. I hope/want it's worth the hassle. We'll see soon.
Also I'm impressed how quickly you arrive to solutions - maybe it's the video editing :P. I'm of the iterative kind and change and fix and brush a lot until it's in some sort of acceptable state.
Wish you the very best in this endeavour.
Heh I only have the camera on like 5% of the time... plus I get to bounce ideas off my Dad too! Good to build on that experience instead of starting from scratch
Love those drywall mounts!
There's just something soooo satisfying about those perfectly arranged wires. While my setup includes 1 ONT box and 1 main wifi router (with another old router wired to it as a repeater), just watching this makes me wanna put keystone jacks, cat6a cabling, racks... for no apparent reason 😂😂😂
I enjoyed watching the video❤
Nice work Jeff! Has to feel good getting to this point!
Wow, the new office has really come along quite fast! I havne't been on the moving playlist for few months now. Well, time to go back and look at all the older videos again :D
Absolutely show more of the crows if they do anything interesting. They're so clever.
I mounted a lot of stuff in racks and I love "por* cabling" but it is always a lot of work. The best option is to make a service loop above the ceiling if it is possible or eventually have a rack or box above or below (depends on your needs) to put the service loop into it. By the way Dr Pepper is the best and I just love it, but for some reason I can buy it only in a one shop in Poland called żabka (frog) and unfortunately they do not sell the diet version - pity. Nice overview. Thanks for sharing the progress.
I recently moved into a new house and am looking to do a proper rack setup.. the Nave point that you got is pretty much the exact thing I need.. I was also looking to have the swivel option for easy access. Might just get the same model thanks!
Nice install overall!
Look forward to more rack content!!!
I will only mount to plywood now after spending a career choice of time doing video and door access stuff. It absolutely makes safely mounting to walls so much easier. I do the same for TVs for this same reason -- even in my home.
Middle Atlantic (Legrand subsidiary) makes top notch racks and rack accessories. Check out their RC2 2-Space Clamping Rackshelf as an option to mount your cable modem. It's good for pieces that were not meant to be rack mounted.
As a suggestion, I found someone to 3d print a 1U holder for my cable modem. I suggest you do the same. Maybe you could have a custom 1u or 2u holder for the home assistant, firewall, and the qnap switch.
For my set up, I had modem at the top most U on a shelf because the top of my rack is open, so the extra height didn’t take up extra rack space. Might be able to find a 3D printed mount for your modem too.
I ran a patch cable from the back of the modem into the back of the patch panel to a pass through keystone, then did a patch from the front of the panel to my router. Keeps it really clean instead of a cable coming out to the front directly from the modem. I do that with my NUCs too.
Definitely surround the switch with patch panels and use 6” slimrun patch cables for a super clean look.
I helped do the network wiring for a non-profit a few years back and I wish I knew all these great tips then :)
For keeping your stuff level: thank you! 😁🤗
You can also get "keystone" jacks for coax connectors. Then you just use a coax patch cable to your modem.
You can probably also remove a lot of the plastic housing of the cable modem and screw it to a 1U shelf to make it a "1U" device. If you zip tie the power supply to the same shelf, it's all nicely contained.
My preferred layout these days is all power connections on the back and any plenum cables terminate at a keystone jack. You can get them for almost anything! HDMI, Fiber, RCA, banana, and more! Add a 1U power strip with individual outlet switches and you can power cycle without pulling cords!
Good work Jeff! Most of my comments have been addressed by others, so that's all I have. Looking forward to the next video.
I have a similar small 12u for home. In addition to the patch panel and switch (that you've already done) it's been super helpful to have a 1U power distribution switch, which then is what plugs into my mini UPS like what you have. Most will have plugs on the front and back, so the few times I've needed a laptop locally, it's easy to plug in.
I'm interested to see what you come up with for the modem and router mounting, I've had similar thoughts but also just have them sitting on the floor of my rack at the moment.
Those toggle-bolts are no joke. I've mounted everything from TV's to an elaborate "floating" bunk-bed. They're holding up my whole floating desk and monitor atm.
You can get som LC keystones for your fiber to terminate them nicely in your patchpanel.
I really suggest boxing out the floor area in front of the breaker box with black/yellow tape to discourage people from putting stuff in front of it. similarly I do this for lab doors indicating how the door will open. I also suggest a "whole house surge protector" which doesn't take the place of surge strips, but gives extra protection to things that you don't plug into surge strips, like appliances.
You think like my Dad! He also mentioned the panel surge protector. I put one in at my house, but there is none here. He said putting one of those in can even extend the life of more sensitive / cheaper things like LED bulbs.
@@JeffGeerlingThat's been part of the NEC / building code for awhile now. I'm surprised your commercial space was approved without it. (code also requires a 3 or 6 ft clearance in front of panels. the fire inspection will ding you on that.)
@@jfbeamThe panel clearance is fine in this case-it's 36" here at least, and I give it about 5' clearance (at home I have some caution tape on the floor since the kids will park objects underneath otherwise!).
@1:40 it'll never cease to spin me out when I see appliance plugs that aren't fused 😂And before I get an "Um akshually " from somebody I know it's not a major big deal, it's just what I'm used to 😬
So happy to see everything coming together man! it's been awesome to follow along.
Love these update videos!!
It looks BEAUTIFUL!!!
thank you for taking us along for the ride!!!
I REALLY hope you took my suggestion about the main studio layout. It was essentially like the way Steve from Hardware Unboxed had built has new(er) recording studio by making a wrap-around desktop (which you could put against one of the walls without a door) with portion of the desktop able to be lifted up and latched so you can enter the center of the wrap around and have a sliding chair (with a plastic rug cover for easy sliding) This would give you a huge amount of workspace3 and the ability to film from a ton of angles just at that desk and make your streams appear to have about 4 or 5 locations just at that desk. Plus you would have a TON of easily accessible storage underneath with the ability to make areas where you can slide you chair in all the way so you chest could be against the desktop. But I think the important part is to have your main desktop surface at your normal level but all around the outer edge you could have a raised ledge with a small surface (maybe 6 inches deep) that would keep you actual work surface block from sight when viewed front he outside (I know there is a name for this but I really can't think of it right now)
And if you're think of having that arity of recording angles you could either not have that ledge on all sides of the wrap around OR you could make some portions of it removable :)
I am definitely going to work on the layout more once I'm completely moved in - it will take some time though as there are a few small projects I need to work on _after_ moving in, to get storage all set up efficiently too!
sir your choice of pop is on point
i bought a cheap harbor freight driver specifically for network racks and its been a godsend - its a little red thing that comes in a bag and was like $60 maybe? something like that, totally worth it...used it to build a VEVOR 12U 4-post rack 15"-40" from ebay which was $81 and i thought was a pretty good deal, went together easily, works great
Keystones are the way to go for sure. They make modifications much easier later. Not sure about your backup power details, but you might want to consider some LED lighting in case the power goes out. Ya, you could just do a plug in flashlight too, but having something on the ceiling that comes on automatically when the power goes out is something I would consider. Oh, and put a top on that rack. Roof leaks happen.
Amazing progress
Viva PEMKO. I worked there when I was young. Quality hardware.
Apparently my Dad started using their stuff on less-critical studio builds for a while now, and they work great. They're not as good as a super-duper-sealed door like they use in their main studios (where the walls are also like 1' thick and they have special multi-pane windows with neoprene rubber spilling out everywhere!), but they're the next best thing, and a godsend for retrofits.
Exciting stuff Jeff!
Lol and yes I had to paint again. Haha nice one Geff, the place is looking mint. Don't forget that, feature wall with a printed PI-5. It's set in stone now ha
Genius!
Love this guy!
We're watching a guy plug in wires, something most of us watching have done more expertly and more often than Jeff, strange, what a time to be alive.
looks really great!
I have the same QNAp switch for my new flat and network. Makes me think I had a good decision
12:50 I'm a cabinet builder electrician and that cable raceway is typically used inside the cabinets. Outside it looks ugly. There are exterior PVC variants big enough to fit your cables and they look much neater since they match the wall color. (also self tapping screws into drywall and wood makes life easy.)
I write the fuse numbers on the back of the wall plate with a sharpie. It means that I if I want to know the fuse number I need to remove the wall plate to see it, but it also means I don't have to look at the fuse number on the outside of the plate all the other times - and for me I generally only need to know the fuse number if I'm going to end up taking the wall plate off anyway.
new channel name: Jeff DIY !! hehe great content as always ! love to watch your vids while sipping a nice coffee, have no idea why but its a great combo ! 👍
I prefer tea or Diet Dr. Pepper but caffeine is caffeine! :)
There are some rack shelves that you can use for a cable modem for a very simple solution. Another thing I've seen is to get the modem attached to a face plate somehow, but that may require some drilling or 3D printing.
People always complain about smart appliances needing an internet connection. It's for keeping the clock perfectly in sync ;)
That's a bad reason to give your smart devices Internet access. The more secure way to do it would be to host a NTP server inside your network and have all the devices use that. Jeff's OpnSense router has a built-in ntpd service that would do the job.
@@ianfromnyc In this post-irony world, I can't tell if you missed my joke or you're joking too.
I've put in quite a few outlets in my life time the reason I put ground/earth at top in some places is if you happen to drop something from like a work bench that's conductive you get a shock or worse
I've had multiple racks in my last 3 homes. My best advice on the cable modem... just mount it to the plywood. Many of them (all of the ones I've owned) have keyhole slots for this purpose. It's not all that useful to have in the rack if it's purely a modem (one coax or fiber, one baseT, DC power); there isn't any re-patching you're going to be doing there. It'll take up space in the rack that's more useful for other things. I started mounting mine on the plywood backer a long time ago and haven't looked back. Plus the broadband tech won't complain about access for his tester whenever you need service. 🙂
UPS looks a bit janky, but I understand. Over the long haul I'd put some money in one or more rack mounted units, choosing in part based on availability of replacement batteries locally and of course reliability. I use Eaton (which used to be Powerware, and before that Best Power). Lead acid batteries tend to be good for about 5 years if you're lucky, 3 years if you're not (and that's with a line interactive; my double conversion UPS' batteries get a little less life). My oldest UPS is a Best Power line interactive, bought in the middle 1990's. Still works well, and has had many battery replacements (which I can get at the local Batteries Plus). Get one you can manage with 'nut' (Network UPS Tools) or similar, whether via USB or add-on ethernet card. I like skipping the add-on ethernet and just using a Pi connected via USB. Cheaper, a lot more flexible, and less of a security risk.
Of course I wouldn't put a lead acid UPS in that particular wall rack (even if you can find one that will fit). It will definitely sag (they're ungodly heavy!). Bottom of a rolling rack is great.
All of my machines shut down gracefully before battery dies in the corresponding UPS, via nutmon. I like to have more time for 'critical network' infrastructure (for me that's cable modem, main 48-port PoE switch, main 10G switch, DNS server). Have the power hogs shut down early when on battery for more than a blip, or use a separate UPS. Nearly all of my power blips are brief, but when they're long, I like to have a little bit of extra time to send out the "We'll be offline for a while, power is out" texts and emails before the whole shebang is down. At home I typically get 40 minutes or so of 'critical stuff still running' on battery, but 10 to 15 minutes is usually sufficient.
A rack mount PDU with pull-out lights is really nice to have at the top of the rack. Esp. if you're trying to find something in the bottom of a rack drawer when the room lights are out.
I'm assuming you're going to put a rolling rack underneath? Any plans for rackmount drawers and a pull-out 1U keyboard and monitor for KVM? May seem like a luxury, but I can't live without these things in my main rack. If the network goes belly-up, I need command line access at the rack. And it's priceless having the tools and consumables I typically need right there in the rack. Ratcheting driver, bits, magnetic LED work light, rack nuts, rack screws, patch cables, bootable thumb drives, cable testers, crimpers, SFP+ transceivers, etc. Neatly tucked away in drawers (lockable if you like).
My keyboard+monitor for KVM was an eBay purchase, dirt cheap but has worked great for over 10 years. I have dozens of Middle Atlantic rack mount drawers, but based on price, I can't recommend them today (most of mine are 20 years old, bought when prices weren't obscene). The NavePoint are a pretty good bang for buck, as are the Penn Elcom heavy-duty.
For those high torque screws.... I like to keep a 1/4 ratchet with 1/4 inch drive to hex adaptor handy so I can use standard driver bit with the ratchet. I find I have much more control lightly turning a ratchet than struggling with a standard screw driver. Sure it might take 60 seconds to grab the ratchet... but it saves knowing that you have a stripped head in your project to the rest of its life. We all have our own variants of OCD!
Great to watch the evolution of this project. Have u thought about some AC power distribution strips at the back of the rack. Maybe a UPS and non UPS one. Another panel I would install under the cat 6 patch is a one unit panel with cable hooks on the front of it to manage the patch cords. I have seen many comms racks without but with lots of patch panels and after a while the cards from the higher panels obscure the ports of the lower ones and it ends up looking like a 'dogs breakfast'. My two bobs worth!
I hope this studio never finishes, this is a nice series
With the outlets being upside down, you can actually buy plugs that would face anywhere you wanted with the cable so there are actually situations where the other way up is leaded because the manufacturer has used a different plug
For the LTT driver there is a 3D printed adapter that lets it accept Ifixit bits. Man I need a server rack of my own. I love home labs. Great video. Now I need an excuse to buy a ton of Ethernet cables and a server rack.
Heh, best option is to try to find one local! Sometimes for free too.
@@JeffGeerling my problem is convincing my family that it’s better for me to run Ethernet in the walls instead of just our current router on a shelf solution!😂
I bought a small rack like yours and had the same issue with screws But a 12v cordless did the trick. Instructions actually say an electric. I can’t imagine doing them all by hand.
Well there's my problem!
I’m excited to see the full server rack!!
Out of curiosity, how many public IPs do you have from your ISP? Are you planning on having each network have its own IP, like a guest wifi, business wifi and the rack? Or do own a block of IPs?
Only one IP on my current plan. I can pay for 5 but right now don't have plans for them :)
Ideally, a /48 for business purposes or even a /56 for home and small business. I know some ISPs deliver smaller prefixes like /60 or /62 but those still allow subnetting but not for a big extent.
@@JeffGeerlingThat’s for the jurassic protocol, right?
@@JeffGeerling Please tell me your ISP allows you access to the entire internet by also giving you IPv6 connectivity
@@BestSpatula My ISP doesn’t offer any IPv6 (Bell Canada). It is very frustrating.
Keen for the Pi NVR video!
Haha me too... I think I first promised it in June or so... need to just get that video done! At least I have all the hardware in one place now.
To mount the cable modem you should disassemble it and see if the board and other components will fit in 1U, 3D print a bottom plate that has raised points to slot into the screw holes and maybe a front plate for the leds and buttons to look nice from the front which will be a 1U filler plate with a modem shaped hole cut out of it
Fun video! I enjoyed hearing about all the precautions and features you added to the construction of your space!
In terms of the networking stuff I did get alittle lost... I am kind of familiar with some of the devices names... but not really sure why you needed them?
I've beeeen waiting to set up my own home network system, so it was interesting to see what was important to you
Yay for the new space!
One note on the cable modem. You said you want to make it 1U, which means the modem will be laying down side ways. While most modems can lay side ways, but they are designed to be standing vertically. The heat inside the modem can be dissipated better when standing vertically. If laying sideways, make sure there are at least some airflow near by to draw heat away from the modem compoents. It will make the modem operate better, longer and more stable. just my 2 cents.
your outlets are just fine, ground on top is good for securyty reasons, what we use to do is put them horizontally, and neutral goes on the top side also for security!
I recently installed the same NavePoint rack and love it.
I am sure you have seen them before, but you can get keystone holders for the fibre LC bulkhead couplers, you just cut the wings off.
I number my ports say below the ports on the patch panel, then have description of the location above using a brother E550w label printer.
I changed from regular keystone jacks to keystone couplers. Instead of punching down the wires, you put a standard RJ45 plug on the end. the couplers snap in to the panel, then you just plug in front and back.
Im sure some will disagree, but I find these faster to install, more reliable, and WAY easier to troubleshoot in the future.
They make dressing the wire bundles easier too.
True; though for a permanent install I like having it punched in-keystone makes it not as annoying to deal with, and trying to crimp RJ45 on Cat6A or Cat8 cabling is quite frustrating!
A RUclipsr was installing his new network rack and his numerous cables already had RJ45 plugs. So he snips them off and goes through the trouble of punching them into keystone jacks. Then diagnosing the ones that didn't work. He would have saved a LOT of work just by using the keystone couplers. For me, I find it easier to connect the plugs, rather than mess with the punch-down blocks.
Did this myself so I didn't have to punch in cables. Makes rearragement easier as well. Its in a permanent rack, and its been working fine this way for years.
Generally a plug is much slower and less reliable than a jack
Put the spool of coax in the ceiling just in case.
Thank you for you getting me into raspberry pi and I have watching you for a while now like 4 years now thanks you
I know I am late for this video
I got into raspberry pi then Im 12 years now I am 14 years old and thanks for everything I want get some of your projects for raspberry pis if you want to share I know you won't share some projects share I am working on a project for raspberry and other computers
I would prefer you put a bigger sever rack then you can expand if you need and you are the best RUclipsr and other people like you and network chuck he is the best too
3:10 Just a note on the sound kits, having a sealing against the door is important to not let air pass through as that's all that's possible without going for a STC rated opening. Brand is just a brand but the Pemko is sure good!
You got an upvote from me on the Diet Dr. Pepper being the best soda that ever was. I could get it almost everywhere when living in Texas, now that I'm out in Cali none of the restaurants carry it )-;
Our current network solution in my house is the basic Verizon modem/router combo they provide. It can be really bad sometimes and always runs hot. Only 4 connections leaves one computer and a Roku on wifi. Although that computer only uses basic browsers so latency is not a problem.
I normally go with (opaque) white on clear for labelling black devices
Another good option!
The fact I’m pretty sure I’ve helped you at target more than once and it took a Webster groves sticker in this video for me to realize that
Technically you could make your own switched outlet if you want. But it's more convenient to use a wall switch for an outlet remotely. The wall plates, especially for the rocker switches, fit nicely with a two outlet configuration. You could place a switch on one side, and the outlet on the other.
But I think I'd just use a light switch as it's more convenient.