Thanks so much for this video Sedge - as a born and bred Sheffielder myself, I was fortunate enough to equip myself with the original Record planes and a Record bench vice. My Moore & Wright rule is still a pleasure to use, but their latest version (which I bought for my son) is certainly not the original quality. Thinking I was doing the right thing, I recently replaced my Record plane blades and could not understand why my planes did not work. No adjustment etc! You’ve answered my problem in this video! Now all I need is a Tormek to grind them down or easier still, put the old blades back in! Your videos are a sheer delight to watch - thanks again.
Sedge, this is one of the most educational or re-educational videos I have seen in several years! I have a very old Stanley 102. It has been passed down through the family for years. I recently dropped it an it sadly broke. I will have it welded and ground down and place in my office on the book shelf it meant so much. I did the exact thing as Big D did and was very disappointed. I have ordered the Lie-Neilsen 102 with roots back to my Stanley 102. I am going to look for some garage sale finds. Thanks for the class.
Thank you for the video and yes it does help. That being said, I have recently gotten into woodworking and I don't have the kind of money it would take to get a good hand plane but I would really like to have one. I don't know much about sharpening either but I guess I'm going to learn. I eventually hope to have a few good hand planes in time but will have to make do without. I'm also planning on making videos for RUclips as well as other platforms so hopefully you might see me soon. Thank you again for taking the time to show how to help with making a crap hand plane somewhat usable and keep doing you! Stay safe and Happy Building!😁
Great video! In Cinnaminson, NJ, I have owned several Record planes from when they were made in Sheffield, England and were a quality product. I still have a 4 and a 5 with upgraded Hock blades and chip breakers and I couldn't agree more that it was worth the cost to upgrade to the Hock blade and chip breaker, even from the Record blades and chip breakers that were made in Sheffield. The efforts that you had to take to make Big D's plane serviceable really demonstrates why as you say Lie Nielsen planes are worth every penny that they charge for them.
Robb..... Glad you are here from Cinnaminson !!!!!! Thanks... I have a few hock blades...I just purchased a Hock blade for my #40 scrub plane from Stanley ...... looking to refurb soon..
I've got a Kobalt plane that, after some tuning actually works well. I have a Harbor Freight that, no matter how you tune it, it still doesn't work even as well as the crummy PEXTO plane I restored a few years ago.
That was more of a don't buy cheap planes review. Thanks for your solid review for beginners. I buy only Lie Nielson and all 11 of them worked straight out of the box. I can only image how many beginner woodworkers that plane has frustrated.
I learned you need to flatten the sole with the blade assembly in place. The cap iron can flex the body, so if you flatten the sole before that flexion it won’t be flat under normal tension during use.
I wouldn't say the cap iron. Maybe the lever cap as it does exert stress on the frog which can flex the sole. I understand the mixup. Its easy to do. I'm looking at making myown wooden planes myself. And the wedge for the blade does the same thing. You have to sand the sole with the blade wedge in place because it will flex the body. 👍🤝
The reason why the blade was sticking out was nothing to do with the length of the blade but the geometry of the chipbreaker. The chipbreaker would have to be shortened to make sure the iron does not stick out ( chipbreaker distance from yoke to the front edge is what governs this). The plane can be made operable with the standard components, stating that you should order a hock chipbreaker rather than fixing the components was poor. I doo agree with you that you should purchase premium tools, especially if you don't know how to fix cheap, poorly manufactured tools yourself.
Sedge you inspired me I went in my garage and grabbed a hand plane out of my dads tool box I found it when we moved recently to my new home it’s been in there my mom says since my dads passing in 74’ it’s a millers falls 56b low angle did a little research watched your video and ordered a blade from hock blade thank you from a finish carpenter from cali
I think you just explained why I've avoided hand planes. My first purchase was a big box plane and it destroyed more wood than it planed. I tossed it and haven't touched one since. I've looked at LN and other high end planes but would never pull the trigger because of my first experience. I'll take the leap now and if I can't operate it properly I'll at least have a sexy looking paperweight. Thanks Sedge!
I had the same experience, my first plane was not usable. I followed some RUclips videos on restoration and sharpening and it makes all the difference in the world. They went from rust collectors to my favorite tools.
At one time Record planes were pretty good, but even so, they still benefited from some work. Years ago, I was fortunate to meet and spend some time in the tutlege of the great Ian Kirby on how to lap, sharpen, tune, and use handplanes including my two old Record planes. After I worked on them following Ian's instructions, they performed beautifully capable of producing full length gossamer shavings. They were (and still are) a true pleasure to use. I think even Rob Cosman would approve.
I took Rob’s Plane Restoration class at our local Wood Crafters store. My 1985 Record #4 now smooths like my #4 LN. I’ve added several old Stanley’s to the collection. Reminds me of shop class in 1962.
Hey, sir! Just curious where you found that surfacing plate you use? Granite remnant? Oh, great video. I’m restoring an old Stanley #7 Type 11. Decent shape. Just old, like me.
It is a piece of scrap that someone once gave be ..said it was the material they use for workstations in labs... I think it may be a granite remnant .....??? I just know it is dead flat !!!
@@sedgetool That's what I am looking for. Everything I see is over-priced and too small. I want a longer/wider piece. Going to hit some of the cabinet and kitchen shops around here for a remnant. Dead flat will work. I don't need ANSI certified! Thanks for your response and for what you do for the woodworking community!
I spent $35 on a hand plane from Lowe’s. It had the Kobalt name on it. I spent a day lapping the sole and sides, sharpening the blade and tuning it up. The thing will cut curls you can almost read through. If you can’t afford a LN hand plane. You can find a good basic plane that you can do good work with. If you are careful and look a plane over before you buy it. You gotta know what you’re looking at.
Wicked cool.....you definitely need to know what your are looking at...that is why it is good to look at reviews of sellers on line first before you buy...
The chip-breaker mounts to the frog, so that's what sets your blade protrusion, the blade length has very little to do with the assembly moving too much forward. All current single fulcrum designs will only have the blade register on the two ends of the frog because of the chip-breaker deflects the blade. Only Record Stay-set solves that issue (to a practical extent). If you are having chattering issues right off the back, it's better to ensure the mounting points of the frog and the sole at the throat to be fully registered than to first go to the blade. This is also why a well tuned Bailey works absolutely no different from a BedRock as the support of the blade really only happens at the bottom and top of the frog. The new Record blades aren't the best, but giving it a convex grind or a healthy amount of secondary bevel will solve a lot of the durability issues. That said, YES, better off just getting a Hock.
Interesting to watch you bringing this up to a fine standard. For the type of person that buys a $20 plane at a box store, the only thing that really let it down and made it unusable out of the box though was the blade being too long and it should have never left the factory like that. I’d like to say that I’d have returned it and got a refund but more likely I’d have fixed it like you did…just maybe not put in as much effort as you. By the end you had a cracking unit though. Good to see the honing effort and which are the bits which need to have the effort spent on them!
I just bought both a woodriver 5 1/2 as well as lie nielsen 62 low angle and 4 1/2. Even as a complete novice to hand planes, the difference between the 2 brands seemed like night and day.
My first hand plane was a modern "Stanley" No.4. Resonably flat sole when I got it home. The iron just needed standard new prep lapping the back a honing. It was however usable. The problem area was .... yup the chipbreaker but at least it was a workable plane for the first week untill it fell on the floor and the plastic tote shaterd. So here was me a brand new wood worker of one week having to make a new tote. I managed to do it but I would rather of had a bit more experiance and confidence in my skills before making one. I might add that it is now sitting unused for six months awaiting conversion to a scrub plane. Though I might do a fine tune first just to see how good I can get it as a smoother first.
Good video, Sedge. I watch you (almost) every Friday, and was knids of taken aback to see you here rocking the hand tools. It would take several videos to show the brute force grinding with a water stone and honing guide. Or a regular grinder, trying to not let it get too hot, then cleaning up with finer water stones. OR, double your investment and get a Hock blade. Ben Franklin said "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
I have a #5 Spear & Jackson that has the same exact problem. Sent it in the mail to me that way. The blade sticks out too far, but the frog is were it needs to be, just like yours. My Blade isn't bent or anything? I can't figure it out, and it's driving me crazy. Be nice to finally use this dang thing Finally got it, it's the body, where the frog sits on. It's been grounded too low, causing the blade to stick out too far
Great video Sedge. Hours of work trying to get a piece of shitty kit to work properly. Hence worth just paying a little more and getting one that works out the box.
@@sedgetool What chips ever come out of a plane? If it's making chips, it's busted. You got very close to explaining it when you showed the chatter pattern on the wood. To make a thin ribbon of wood, that edge must stay within a very small vertical dimension. Less that 5 ten thousandths of an inch. Blades can never be that strong. The "Chip breaker" can guarantee that vertical dimension. You can pick up the exact frequency with a microphone and then do the math to see the deviation. No chips involved, ever.
Learned so much in this video. Thank you for doing this for us. Is the #4 smooth plane a good place to start as a new woodworker or is there another plane you recommend we get if saving for a Lie Nielsen plane?
Sedge, great video! I always figured you were a skilled craftsmen, so why do turn into that “ShamWow” guy on Festool live? Either way after finding this channel and getting to know you better I have a lot more respect for you and whoever that guy is over there on Festool live, ha ha. Thanks again for the great content.
I think that Hock blade retails for about twice what the entire Record plane sells for. (Yup, saw that in the conclusions.) I buy used planes, Record, Millers Falls, Woden, and Stanley. The Bedrocks are nice but I won't give for a used Bedrock what a new Lie Nielsen (Bedrock pattern) Plane sells for. I buy planes to use not collect.
Yep .... Menards ....I did not know about them until I moved here to the Midwest !!!!! The company has 335 stores in 15 states: Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, North Dakota, Ohio, South Dakota, West Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. Menards is the third-largest home improvement chain in the United States, behind Lowe's and The Home Depot.
@@sedgetool Menards has a huge fan following. Even though Lowe's is headquarted in NC, and I would like to show local loyalty, I do wish we had a Menards here in the lovely eastern Piedmont of NC.
I wouldn't want a lie Nielsen as a first plane. The stakes are too high. The most important part of hand tools for a beginner is learning to sharpen and keep a tool sharp. And you may well do it wrong as a beginner and damage your high end tool. So it may make more sense to take a cheap plane or used plane which is not sharp and getting it working within the range of normal. Usually all it takes is sharpening which you need to learn anyway. Once you know more in particular what you don't like about your cheap plane (hard to adjust, won't keep settings, blade dulls quickly), the high end equipment makes a lot of sense. Or maybe not if you like restoration since now you know how to get a vintage plane into working condition.
LN works pretty good out of the box, the do recommend that the buyer add a secondary bevel if you really want it to work great. They have a good set of videos on their site showing how to do it.
@@michaelpayne8102 I've been eyeing Veritas for a while. Would just rather support s Canadian company and its easy to deal with warranty through Lee Valley.
@@JoeC92 Lee Valley is great company, I bought directly from Veritas in the last century (LOL). LN has exceptional service as well, ships in less than a day.
While Hock blades/chip breakers may be wonderful, while he says they are in the range of $30-$40, in 2022 no longer true. The are more in the range of 50-60 euuos and add another 50-75 euros for shipping to the USA unless you can find a retailer closer than Germany. Just a caution. They may well be worth it, but just so you know.
@@sedgetool my family has vacationed in Wells ME. for 4 generations! Love it there. Great video, if you were still around here I may of needed your services regarding some planes I’m restoring lol.
Great video, Big D owes you, you hit on a lot points that I really enjoyed. From why I have a multiple LN’s to one of the reasons I started with Festool and buying a CT36. The only thing you missed was wax/oil all that steel. $21.39 plus $10 sandpaper, new blade, new chipper breaker. :).
Wow what a great video👌👌👌 going through the whole process from start to finish.. although I truly love the fact that you went back in and did some research when you hit a wall was great👌👌👌 big D is the man he’s going to be pumped!
It seems it’s more important to pan up continuously on the narrator than to focus on the subject matter. This style of RUclips fluff is very discouraging to watch!
@@sedgetool Chris does a fine job with the camera, but Super S. has a valid point in one respect: a little less panning up and down would make the videos better. Staying focused on the work even -- while Sedge is speaking -- would make the videos easier to watch and more enjoyable. Too much camera movement and unnecessary panning can give the viewer a case of nausea & vertigo.
That's the cheap Irwin record .so it's a Chinese Irwin .they look similar but record went tits up years ago Irwin bought the name but then massed produced it for wood butchers
Dai, yep, you're so right. As AvE might say, it's made of the "finest Chinesium"-- code for no-so-good Chinese crapola -- just like a Chinese nut driver set I bought a few years ago from Horror Fright. I had not one but TWO of the nut drivers literally crack with just hand tightening. Maybe one of these days the public will figure out there is a reason why their stuff is so cheap -- viz., that they ARE.
A bloody shame that you had to put in the hours and effort to make that a usable plane. What irks me is the fact that the manufacturer get away with taking your money for and item that does not serve it's purpose when you buy it. I have Stanley no 5 that I bought some years ago (new from a big box store here in Australia) that also did not work and was not usable straight out of the package. Upon further examination I found that the base had a concave bow in it when placed on a flat surface of approximately 1/8th of an inch. Just not good enough. It is a little like buying a new car only to find that the engine does not run from the dealership. Bad form on the part of both Record and Stanley. Where is your quality control????
Veritas plans are excellent and are about 1/2 the LN price when I bought mine. Each and every one was ready for use right out of the box. However, I do add a micro-bevel the first time needed sharpening. No bronze here but great, functional, and durable products.
"Ok is not Ok for me." - Perfectly said. Great video Sedge!
Thanks
16:18 "That's a wicked shaap edge."
NOW I feel like I'm back in Boston 😆
😂
Only place in the world where you can have a hat attack.
Thanks so much for this video Sedge - as a born and bred Sheffielder myself, I was fortunate enough to equip myself with the original Record planes and a Record bench vice. My Moore & Wright rule is still a pleasure to use, but their latest version (which I bought for my son) is certainly not the original quality. Thinking I was doing the right thing, I recently replaced my Record plane blades and could not understand why my planes did not work. No adjustment etc! You’ve answered my problem in this video! Now all I need is a Tormek to grind them down or easier still, put the old blades back in! Your videos are a sheer delight to watch - thanks again.
Thanks Martin......
Sedge, this is one of the most educational or re-educational videos I have seen in several years! I have a very old Stanley 102. It has been passed down through the family for years. I recently dropped it an it sadly broke. I will have it welded and ground down and place in my office on the book shelf it meant so much. I did the exact thing as Big D did and was very disappointed. I have ordered the Lie-Neilsen 102 with roots back to my Stanley 102. I am going to look for some garage sale finds. Thanks for the class.
you are soooooooooooooooooo welcome Blake ......Live and Learn ......
Thank you for the video and yes it does help. That being said, I have recently gotten into woodworking and I don't have the kind of money it would take to get a good hand plane but I would really like to have one. I don't know much about sharpening either but I guess I'm going to learn. I eventually hope to have a few good hand planes in time but will have to make do without. I'm also planning on making videos for RUclips as well as other platforms so hopefully you might see me soon. Thank you again for taking the time to show how to help with making a crap hand plane somewhat usable and keep doing you! Stay safe and Happy Building!😁
Enjoy your woodworking journey !!!
Great video! In Cinnaminson, NJ, I have owned several Record planes from when they were made in Sheffield, England and were a quality product. I still have a 4 and a 5 with upgraded Hock blades and chip breakers and I couldn't agree more that it was worth the cost to upgrade to the Hock blade and chip breaker, even from the Record blades and chip breakers that were made in Sheffield. The efforts that you had to take to make Big D's plane serviceable really demonstrates why as you say Lie Nielsen planes are worth every penny that they charge for them.
Robb..... Glad you are here from Cinnaminson !!!!!! Thanks... I have a few hock blades...I just purchased a Hock blade for my #40 scrub plane from Stanley ...... looking to refurb soon..
I've got a Kobalt plane that, after some tuning actually works well. I have a Harbor Freight that, no matter how you tune it, it still doesn't work even as well as the crummy PEXTO plane I restored a few years ago.
cool
That was more of a don't buy cheap planes review. Thanks for your solid review for beginners. I buy only Lie Nielson and all 11 of them worked straight out of the box. I can only image how many beginner woodworkers that plane has frustrated.
true that !!
Awesome video. I learned a ton about setting up a hand plane. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I learned you need to flatten the sole with the blade assembly in place. The cap iron can flex the body, so if you flatten the sole before that flexion it won’t be flat under normal tension during use.
good to know ...
I wouldn't say the cap iron. Maybe the lever cap as it does exert stress on the frog which can flex the sole. I understand the mixup. Its easy to do. I'm looking at making myown wooden planes myself. And the wedge for the blade does the same thing. You have to sand the sole with the blade wedge in place because it will flex the body. 👍🤝
@@melgillham462you’re right. I meant to write cap/iron. The whole unit(cutting iron, cap iron, and lever cap) all have to be in place.
Thank you for sharing. Have a wonderful Wednesday. From Henrico County Virginia
Thank you! You too!
The reason why the blade was sticking out was nothing to do with the length of the blade but the geometry of the chipbreaker. The chipbreaker would have to be shortened to make sure the iron does not stick out ( chipbreaker distance from yoke to the front edge is what governs this). The plane can be made operable with the standard components, stating that you should order a hock chipbreaker rather than fixing the components was poor. I doo agree with you that you should purchase premium tools, especially if you don't know how to fix cheap, poorly manufactured tools yourself.
ok
Thank you sir !!!!! I learned a ton , by far the best advice I’ve heard on yt.
Glad to help !!!!!!!!
Sedge you inspired me I went in my garage and grabbed a hand plane out of my dads tool box I found it when we moved recently to my new home it’s been in there my mom says since my dads passing in 74’ it’s a millers falls 56b low angle did a little research watched your video and ordered a blade from hock blade thank you from a finish carpenter from cali
wow....very cool ...the planes that were handed down to me from my dad are the most cherished ..... thanks for sharing...meant a lot to me....
I did not see where you checked that the sides are perpendicular to the sole. Isn't that important?
yes ...
I think you just explained why I've avoided hand planes. My first purchase was a big box plane and it destroyed more wood than it planed. I tossed it and haven't touched one since. I've looked at LN and other high end planes but would never pull the trigger because of my first experience. I'll take the leap now and if I can't operate it properly I'll at least have a sexy looking paperweight. Thanks Sedge!
Thanks Rob..... That lie-Nielsen will not let you down....
I had the same experience, my first plane was not usable. I followed some RUclips videos on restoration and sharpening and it makes all the difference in the world. They went from rust collectors to my favorite tools.
Thanks for the video. Wicked pahts and wicked shahp. I have an inkling of where you hail from.
wicked cool !!!!!
At one time Record planes were pretty good, but even so, they still benefited from some work. Years ago, I was fortunate to meet and spend some time in the tutlege of the great Ian Kirby on how to lap, sharpen, tune, and use handplanes including my two old Record planes. After I worked on them following Ian's instructions, they performed beautifully capable of producing full length gossamer shavings. They were (and still are) a true pleasure to use. I think even Rob Cosman would approve.
Thanks ...I met Ian a couple of times ..what a great guy ...
I took Rob’s Plane Restoration class at our local Wood Crafters store. My 1985 Record #4 now smooths like my #4 LN. I’ve added several old Stanley’s to the collection. Reminds me of shop class in 1962.
Hey, sir! Just curious where you found that surfacing plate you use? Granite remnant? Oh, great video. I’m restoring an old Stanley #7 Type 11. Decent shape. Just old, like me.
It is a piece of scrap that someone once gave be ..said it was the material they use for workstations in labs... I think it may be a granite remnant .....??? I just know it is dead flat !!!
@@sedgetool That's what I am looking for. Everything I see is over-priced and too small. I want a longer/wider piece. Going to hit some of the cabinet and kitchen shops around here for a remnant. Dead flat will work. I don't need ANSI certified! Thanks for your response and for what you do for the woodworking community!
I spent $35 on a hand plane from Lowe’s. It had the Kobalt name on it. I spent a day lapping the sole and sides, sharpening the blade and tuning it up. The thing will cut curls you can almost read through. If you can’t afford a LN hand plane. You can find a good basic plane that you can do good work with. If you are careful and look a plane over before you buy it. You gotta know what you’re looking at.
Wicked cool.....you definitely need to know what your are looking at...that is why it is good to look at reviews of sellers on line first before you buy...
@@sedgetool Absolutely.
The chip-breaker mounts to the frog, so that's what sets your blade protrusion, the blade length has very little to do with the assembly moving too much forward. All current single fulcrum designs will only have the blade register on the two ends of the frog because of the chip-breaker deflects the blade. Only Record Stay-set solves that issue (to a practical extent). If you are having chattering issues right off the back, it's better to ensure the mounting points of the frog and the sole at the throat to be fully registered than to first go to the blade. This is also why a well tuned Bailey works absolutely no different from a BedRock as the support of the blade really only happens at the bottom and top of the frog. The new Record blades aren't the best, but giving it a convex grind or a healthy amount of secondary bevel will solve a lot of the durability issues. That said, YES, better off just getting a Hock.
Thanks
Interesting to watch you bringing this up to a fine standard. For the type of person that buys a $20 plane at a box store, the only thing that really let it down and made it unusable out of the box though was the blade being too long and it should have never left the factory like that. I’d like to say that I’d have returned it and got a refund but more likely I’d have fixed it like you did…just maybe not put in as much effort as you. By the end you had a cracking unit though. Good to see the honing effort and which are the bits which need to have the effort spent on them!
Thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just bought both a woodriver 5 1/2 as well as lie nielsen 62 low angle and 4 1/2. Even as a complete novice to hand planes, the difference between the 2 brands seemed like night and day.
for sure...
My first hand plane was a modern "Stanley" No.4. Resonably flat sole when I got it home. The iron just needed standard new prep lapping the back a honing. It was however usable. The problem area was .... yup the chipbreaker but at least it was a workable plane for the first week untill it fell on the floor and the plastic tote shaterd. So here was me a brand new wood worker of one week having to make a new tote. I managed to do it but I would rather of had a bit more experiance and confidence in my skills before making one. I might add that it is now sitting unused for six months awaiting conversion to a scrub plane. Though I might do a fine tune first just to see how good I can get it as a smoother first.
It is soo tough to find a "new" ,good hand plane at a low cost these days....
Good video, Sedge. I watch you (almost) every Friday, and was knids of taken aback to see you here rocking the hand tools. It would take several videos to show the brute force grinding with a water stone and honing guide. Or a regular grinder, trying to not let it get too hot, then cleaning up with finer water stones. OR, double your investment and get a Hock blade.
Ben Franklin said "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
Thanks Ira .... I love that Ben Franklin quote ......
What are you using for a flat surface / lapping plate to attach your sanding paper? Great video!
I use a piece of dead flat solid surface
Do you prefer Record or Stanley planes?
Older Stanley planes
I have a #5 Spear & Jackson that has the same exact problem. Sent it in the mail to me that way. The blade sticks out too far, but the frog is were it needs to be, just like yours. My Blade isn't bent or anything? I can't figure it out, and it's driving me crazy. Be nice to finally use this dang thing
Finally got it, it's the body, where the frog sits on. It's been grounded too low, causing the blade to stick out too far
I hope this video helped
@@sedgetool yes Sir it did. Watched it twice 😀
Congrats for the video!
I would really like to know if the sandpaper you used was made specifically for metal or if you used regular wood sandpaper?
regular wood paper
"Cap iron" ? I was thinking, _chip breaker._ Does Stanley use different nomenclature from Irwin ?
Cap Iron and chip breaker are interchangeable ...both the same ..... I use both !!!!
Here in the U.K., it is a cap iron. Hand planes make shavings not “chips”…we eat those with fish.
Great video Sedge. Hours of work trying to get a piece of shitty kit to work properly. Hence worth just paying a little more and getting one that works out the box.
for sure
Love your stuff Sedge. What are you using as your lapping plate?
material that is dead flat...this is a chunk of a weird material called Richlite...kinda like solid surface material
They call it a chip breaker but that's not what it does. It supports the blade edge. Am I wrong, again?
both
@@sedgetool What chips ever come out of a plane? If it's making chips, it's busted. You got very close to explaining it when you showed the chatter pattern on the wood. To make a thin ribbon of wood, that edge must stay within a very small vertical dimension. Less that 5 ten thousandths of an inch. Blades can never be that strong. The "Chip breaker" can guarantee that vertical dimension. You can pick up the exact frequency with a microphone and then do the math to see the deviation. No chips involved, ever.
Hi Sedge Great video I’ve learnt such a lot about Planers 💯💚💚💚👍👍
Happy it was helpful !!!!!!! Thanks Ian !!!!!
Learned so much in this video. Thank you for doing this for us.
Is the #4 smooth plane a good place to start as a new woodworker or is there another plane you recommend we get if saving for a Lie Nielsen plane?
I would start with a #5 bench plane...Called a Jack plane.."Jack of all trades"...I use a #4 1/2 smoother...love it
Sedge, great video! I always figured you were a skilled craftsmen, so why do turn into that “ShamWow” guy on Festool live? Either way after finding this channel and getting to know you better I have a lot more respect for you and whoever that guy is over there on Festool live, ha ha. Thanks again for the great content.
Thank you very much.....I am so glad you found this channel !!!!!
Make sure your vacuum has a dust seperater before vacuuming. You need more than just a hepa filter on it for this.
Good point !!!!!
@@sedgetool Also the frog might not have been properly referencing against the edge of the blade. That's probably why the upgrade fixed the chatter.
Sedge, question. Why do you not wet sand? I'm not picking on your methods, just curious.
Great question... I do not like to add water into this process because of the nature of cast iron....
I think that Hock blade retails for about twice what the entire Record plane sells for. (Yup, saw that in the conclusions.) I buy used planes, Record, Millers Falls, Woden, and Stanley. The Bedrocks are nice but I won't give for a used Bedrock what a new Lie Nielsen (Bedrock pattern) Plane sells for. I buy planes to use not collect.
cool
@sedgetool what is that black board you are attaching the sandpaper too?
a piece of soapstone
Where did you acquire these
In the good old days (1950's) Stanley, Woden and Record were all the same planes.
good point
ok
I gotta ask, what lumber/home center is green? I know the blue one and the orange one, but there's a green one?
Yep .... Menards ....I did not know about them until I moved here to the Midwest !!!!!
The company has 335 stores in 15 states: Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, North Dakota, Ohio, South Dakota, West Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming.
Menards is the third-largest home improvement chain in the United States, behind Lowe's and The Home Depot.
@@sedgetool Menards has a huge fan following. Even though Lowe's is headquarted in NC, and I would like to show local loyalty, I do wish we had a Menards here in the lovely eastern Piedmont of NC.
@@sedgetool Ahhh thanks! I'm from New York where we dont have them.
I wouldn't want a lie Nielsen as a first plane. The stakes are too high. The most important part of hand tools for a beginner is learning to sharpen and keep a tool sharp. And you may well do it wrong as a beginner and damage your high end tool. So it may make more sense to take a cheap plane or used plane which is not sharp and getting it working within the range of normal. Usually all it takes is sharpening which you need to learn anyway.
Once you know more in particular what you don't like about your cheap plane (hard to adjust, won't keep settings, blade dulls quickly), the high end equipment makes a lot of sense. Or maybe not if you like restoration since now you know how to get a vintage plane into working condition.
ok..good points
Great vido plane is a chinese copy of a a fantastic english plane i am in uk and record planes pre 1960 are very very nice planes .
Many thanks! I also have older Record planes and they are really nice planes !!!
So if you're buying a lie Neilson or Veritas are they at least good out of the box?
LN works pretty good out of the box, the do recommend that the buyer add a secondary bevel if you really want it to work great. They have a good set of videos on their site showing how to do it.
@@michaelpayne8102 I've been eyeing Veritas for a while. Would just rather support s Canadian company and its easy to deal with warranty through Lee Valley.
Both are great out of the box...the blades may need some honing !!!
@@sedgetool good to know. Sharpening or honing ain't an issue.
@@JoeC92 Lee Valley is great company, I bought directly from Veritas in the last century (LOL). LN has exceptional service as well, ships in less than a day.
While Hock blades/chip breakers may be wonderful, while he says they are in the range of $30-$40, in 2022 no longer true. The are more in the range of 50-60 euuos and add another 50-75 euros for shipping to the USA unless you can find a retailer closer than Germany. Just a caution. They may well be worth it, but just so you know.
Us Prices from the Hock Web site:
ww4.aitsafe.com/cf/recalculate.php
ww4.aitsafe.com/cf/recalculate.php
Includes shipping in the cart
19:32 I speak Bostonian so let me translate. "You owe me a racka beah" means "I did you a favor so you need to compensate me with a six pack."
yep..rack ah
Impressive, Sedge. Love your channel!
Hey, thanks!
Are you guys based in MA.?
nope based in Indiana .... I grew up in ME
@@sedgetool my family has vacationed in Wells ME. for 4 generations! Love it there. Great video, if you were still around here I may of needed your services regarding some planes I’m restoring lol.
I agree people buy a PC of junk like that and think hand planes don't work
Thanks Brad..... Hopefully enough folks watch this video and give hand planes a chance ......
Great video, Big D owes you, you hit on a lot points that I really enjoyed. From why I have a multiple LN’s to one of the reasons I started with Festool and buying a CT36. The only thing you missed was wax/oil all that steel. $21.39 plus $10 sandpaper, new blade, new chipper breaker. :).
Well said! Thanks Michael !!!
Wow what a great video👌👌👌 going through the whole process from start to finish.. although I truly love the fact that you went back in and did some research when you hit a wall was great👌👌👌 big D is the man he’s going to be pumped!
Thank you so much 😀
I bought the same plane, and made it into a scrub plane. I think Big D was just unlucky with his one. That was wrong on many levels.
thanks Jason......
great video Sedge. Big D will cherish the hand plane for sure....but at a fair hourly wage and the time you spent, he could buy a Lie-Nielson #4.
Well said!
Great Video. Would love to learn more about the use of a jointing hand plane
More to come!
I bought Lie-Nielsen.
Great to hear !!!!
It seems it’s more important to pan up continuously on the narrator than to focus on the subject matter. This style of RUclips fluff is very discouraging to watch!
Thanks for Sharing ....Good For You !!!!!
@@sedgetool Chris does a fine job with the camera, but Super S. has a valid point in one respect: a little less panning up and down would make the videos better. Staying focused on the work even -- while Sedge is speaking -- would make the videos easier to watch and more enjoyable. Too much camera movement and unnecessary panning can give the viewer a case of nausea & vertigo.
Nothing beats the finish of a highly tuned plane.
Stanley and record are the same company now and they are made in china
ok
will you do that to mine please ?
LOL......
It’s called a MOUTH not throat
ok
Hanzhen harmonic gear , strain wave gear , robot gear , over 30 years experience ,
cool.......
That's the cheap Irwin record .so it's a Chinese Irwin .they look similar but record went tits up years ago Irwin bought the name but then massed produced it for wood butchers
yep...you got that right !!!
Dai, yep, you're so right. As AvE might say, it's made of the "finest Chinesium"-- code for no-so-good Chinese crapola -- just like a Chinese nut driver set I bought a few years ago from Horror Fright. I had not one but TWO of the nut drivers literally crack with just hand tightening. Maybe one of these days the public will figure out there is a reason why their stuff is so cheap -- viz., that they ARE.
A bloody shame that you had to put in the hours and effort to make that a usable plane. What irks me is the fact that the manufacturer get away with taking your money for and item that does not serve it's purpose when you buy it. I have Stanley no 5 that I bought some years ago (new from a big box store here in Australia) that also did not work and was not usable straight out of the package. Upon further examination I found that the base had a concave bow in it when placed on a flat surface of approximately 1/8th of an inch. Just not good enough. It is a little like buying a new car only to find that the engine does not run from the dealership. Bad form on the part of both Record and Stanley. Where is your quality control????
Drives me crazy that these planes are being sold in such poor quality
They have bought the Record name to sell rubbish.
An old second hand Record would be a far better buy..
I Agree
At 60 dollars you can buy a brand new stanley and you probably won't have to do anytging to the chip breaker.
Good point ...Thanks
4 hours work + a substitute part to fix a $20 tool? Yeah, just buy a better one.
I totally agree John !!!!!
Veritas plans are excellent and are about 1/2 the LN price when I bought mine. Each and every one was ready for use right out of the box. However, I do add a micro-bevel the first time needed sharpening. No bronze here but great, functional, and durable products.