One correction: to get the second edge parallel to the first, I would usually use a marking gauge or panel gauge. I was really focusing on flattening here, so I left out this important step.
Just came here to write this :), thanks for the informative video. Alos not that important but camera started losing focus in a few parts, than regained focus, I don't know why that happens. (ex: 20:05 - 20:15 looking at the endgrain of your widest benchtop piece helps to catch it)
Before I flatten a board with a plane, I moisten the convex side, apply heat or clamp flat and put out in the sun. Gets most of the warp out. Once dry, the planning step is a lot shorter. Got the idea from: 1-wooden boat builders (steam heat) 2-native American arrow makers (hold over open flame then bend over knee). 3-Japanese cabinet makers. In other words, the heat and moisture method has been used for 1,000's of years. It took several attempts to figure it out. Now when I take boards home, I stick and clamp flat and let sit for a week. This has reduced the "flattening stage" to a minimum.
This comment adds such important context. How you deal with the wood BEFORE flattening will be more productive than any other single thing you do to prep wood. You can mitigate how much the wood warps as it acclimates. Warping is a result of the process, it is NOT an inherent property, so you CAN minimize it. The best flattening technique there is, is not having to do it in the first place (obviously you’ll always have to do some, but you get the idea). Also, I wouldn’t trust free hand planing to provide a “perfectly perpendicular edge”. Firstly, ‘perfect’ is something to aspire to, not something that is achieved. Secondly, I would however trust a shooting board to provide a sufficiently square edge. I grant that these videos may be targeted towards less experienced woodworkers that don’t have one, but they are the ones that would need it the most. I speak from long painful experience, getting a free hand planed edge good enough is an exercise in frustration, even for some more experienced woodworkers! Rob Cosman has an amazing video on building and using your very own shooting board (of course he does), so it’s not out of anyone’s reach. Regardless, another excellent video! If not quite perfect…. 😂
I agree. I like to see the progress he has made. His inflection has gotten gentler on the senses but still manages to convey his ideas in an easy to understand format.
I think I’ve watched all of your videos, and this is far and away your best one yet. This style of old school, direct, basics teaching is amazing content. Keep it coming!
Im 30 and getting back into woodworking and see all these youtubers shoving boards into auto planers but I can't afford that so thank you for teaching the old skills
I use the whub test. It’s one of my favorites (thank you for giving it a name). I absolutely love taking two boards that have been planed flat and could sit there and whub them together for hours because it is just so darn satisfying. I also will take a straight edge and just spin it over the face to see if it catches any high spots.
I don’t know how you manage to show a process and I feel like i can go and do it. The way you demonstrate I find relaxing and encouraging. After everyone one of your videos I feel yep i can do that now. For a person who is extremely HDHD and has PTSD that means a lot. You and wood by wright are the only people so far that leave me feeling confident that i can. And I did after watching your videos I built myself a roman workbench and it works amazing. The confidence it has given me mind blowing thank you so much.
I really do respect the work of the other teachers, like Rob Cosman, Paul Sellers, that show their ways of dealing with the cup/twist deformations of the wood. But I have to tell you I like your method more. Thank you, Rex Krueger
I like how you get into the details I haven't seen from some others. I have rarely seen anyone go into so much detail about how to plane the wood or how important it is for fine work to be done.
That was Incredibly satisfying to watch :) Like wood ASMR My son (8) shows interest in woodworking and we could find us a litte space in the old shed to install a very basic workshop. We had the idea to make some cutting boards and at some point you need a plain and square board :) Obviously it is not in the budget to get a planer and jointer. Using handtools not only gives you much more appreciation for the work but you also learn how the material behaves when you work with it. I have an ME Background and I started with handtools to get a square edge onto a piece of steel before even touching a milling machine. That way you really "get in sync" with the material and the limitations of the tools you have at your disposal. Great Video! Greetings from Germany
i loved learning the "feel" of planing, the stopping and starting you mentioned and what all that feedback means. but now i will also be listening for the sound of flatness!
I’ve been woodworking for almost 15 years and never heard of the drop test. I use a jointer (sorry!), but I’ll definitely be using that test to make sure my boards are flat. Thanks, Rex!
First video I’ve watched of yours and even though I was thinking “oh man just get a jointer and planer, that’s what I want to do soon” I soon realised that I wish I had your craftsmanship and totally respect your skills. You’ve earned my sub
Thanks Rex, this video is gold! I'm a power tool woodworker using the 80's chic table saw etc I inherited from my grandpa. He didn't leave me a jointer or a planer, but there are a few hand planes hidden in the bunch. Your videos have made me hand-tool-curious, but I've not found such a straightforward explanation of how to use hand planes and what to watch for to know whether I'm actually getting it right. I'll be coming back to this video often!
Thank you Rex for another superlative tutorial! Both the content and your teaching style are terrific. I agree that whub versus clack tip is super helpful.
It seems that wherever I start watching anything to do with hand tools, I end up at a Rex video. Always informative, even when I think I know what I'm doing with my tools. Great job sir.
Truly useful and well presented. I've been using hand tools for going on 60 years and never tire of a really good tutorial. Every new hand tool woodworker should watch this.
I obtained some nice sapele rough 2x4, and have been cutting sticks from it for my projects. I rip it with a saw that I bought at a thrift shop and cut new, sharp teeth into, plane with a plane that I restored and homemade bench hook and shooting board. Learning the skills for all these things and using them to make a straight, square and smooth piece of lovely wood is immensely satisfying. Somehow, the wonder of it is lost on my wife, but, god bless her, she looks at it and says “That’s nice, dear”. Now I need to make a marking gauge…
I'm happy to see you mention using that "drop trick" to judge flatness. I use my table saw to do that, and depending on the wood species, I try to get the sound down to a just a "puff" sound, almost silent. Occasionally if I'm really lucky, the board will skate a little, like an air-hockey puck. When you plane down to the gauge line, you can also judge your approach to the surface you want by touch. By felling the edges as you get very near the line, the edge will start to catch your finger as you brush upward. I reduce the cut depth and continue until a whisker of wood starts to appear around the edge, and use that whisker as a visual guide to close in on the exact thickness. The very last strokes leave a very small chamfer around the edges which marks the lower edge of the gauge mark. The pencil mark allows you to actually see the line as you get down to level. The method you learned is also discussed in an old book, Exercises in Wood Working by Ivin Sickels. It has been reprinted.
„Get the basics right and the rest will follow“ British football coach Fred Pentland, whose first unit at his new club Athletic Bilbao in the mid 1920s was „How to tie your football boot laces.“
This is the best video I've seen on the subject. Well done. I'm currently re-sawing some rough timbers, and prepping the boards - I know all this stuff, but I've been realizing that I need a repeatable process to keep myself on track and to complete this step more efficiently. There's nothing more frustrating than going too far with one step - like taking too much off the high corners, only to find that now the other two corners are too high. I need to be more aware of exactly what I need to take off, and to just take that off - sneaking up on it, and checking often.
Subscribed after about 6 minutes, fantastic video. I have watched a lot of videos about how to use a plane to flatten boards, and yours I actually understand because you included the plane technique. So many just assume you have used a plane before and just go into how to flatten a board but forget to tell you what to do with the plane while flattening.
I love the "organised" approach or systematic technique. I only wish I could press the "like" button several times or insert a star...to demonstrate how much I liked this video...priceless.
Rex your really doing it buddy! Been following your videos for 2 years amd bought your book, awesome back to basics read , keep doing what your doing I love it !!!
Now this is by far my favorite vid you've ever done🤘 Please do more of these in depth "how to" vids You make the process enjoyable as apposed to time consuming and annoying lol
I’m so happy to see a video on flattening boards right before I do my biggest project where I need to flatten boards with hand tools. Unfortunately I only have a no.4 smoothing plane, but I’m sure it will work out 😅 thanks for the great content! I’ve made your mallet and short workbench and really enjoy them 🙏
Man I haven't watched one of your videos in a long time, I watched them a lot last year. Good stuff. Thanks to Rex I have now made some little boards and it's really enjoyable. I just find flatb parts of logs that are firewood to be split, sometimes I can sneak a couple pieces out of the wood splitter and purposely try to split them into boards
There must thousands of videos on the net reflecting the same exact subject and method. Rex's videos have gotten to the point where they are simply more enjoyable to watch and provide tons of good info in a straight-to-the-point method. In addition, he gives credit where credit is due and avoids most, if not all, BS philosophy.
Thank you so much, Rex, especially for the step by step explanation of your thinking while planing. As a beginner without anyone experienced around to train me this is so valuable!
Great information. I’ve avoided planes my whole life so my skill is novice level. My shop has recently been down-sized so I don’t have a thickness planer anymore. I’ve been trying some of your techniques and I’m getting pretty good results. I even find it’s very satisfying doing it by hand.
I really loved this video. I enjoy your regular style too but something about this video and the intentional pace made me so much more confident. I've played around with my planes but this gives me more of a "I'm practicing this skill" feeling. Thanks for the quality content!
Thank you! I especially like the explanation of when to go for S4S and when you would stop after 1 side and 1 edge. I hadn't made that connection yet and have struggled with my current project, as a result.
Good one! So many will show you how to sharpen and set up the plane, then take a few shavings off an edge and tell you 'this is how you use a plane'. There is a need for good 'beginner' exercises. Not shown in this one would be how to take out a warp on the edges, as in concave and convex. I would think it would be the same process. I had wondered about squaring up the edges, and you explained that one. My first attempts pretty much required me to skew the blade slightly since the edges were so angled. Using the camber in the iron works for ones that are 'close'. Thanks!
Good video!!! That is exactly how I dimension my stock.... It's a learning curve technique but it becomes very intuitive with time. My advice when working on stock of wood you should first start dimensioning the board in the worst condition that you can get dimension from and after attending this board it will be the " bench mark" to the rest.
Rex - great lesson. I really enjoyed watching it. I love the drop test, never seen that before but it makes so much sense. Thanks for the other recommendations at the end, I’ll make sure to follow them up. Please keep up these type of videos. Ken, Southport UK
For the final step (the second edge): you're getting it to be at 90° to the face, but there's no guarantee that it's parallel to the first edge. You'd want something like a panel gauge, or just measuring out the width you need and ripping/planing to that line.
@@trackie1957 True, but how do you check that it's 90° to the face AND parallel to the other edge? Do you measure the width of the board on both ends, then plane to that line?
@@BakerVS Ahh, good question! As Rex said, often times it’s not necessary, but when it is, I just measure the width in several places and remove wood from the wide spots. Of course, this requires one edge to be straight and square. Most of my pieces are only a few inches wide so it’s easy. For something wider, I’d use a gage ( which I don’t have) or set my combination square to the narrowest spot and use that as my reference.
Rex, I really enjoyed this video. It was very instruction-focused, and super informative. I'm gonna have to dig into your videos to find that fore plane, too. That thing's a monster I'd love to use.
I would just add that, especially if you have wider and longer boards, for face planing use creons for rough marking. It's faster and easier to see. Again, with wide and long boards, if the cup/bow is significant (losing too much material) you can saw the board in half, thus dealing with less cup/bow per board and edge joint them in the end.
Thanks for the careful and detailed explanation. It may seem like a simple thing to someone who has mastered planes, but it can be a hard thing to learn well.
Excellent video Rex. You've outlined an intuitive, reproducible approach and provided an excellent demonstration - the proof is in the thud! Keep up the great work.
Thank you, Rex! You explained it very easy to understand, but also very detailed. I learned a lot watching this Video. You make really great content. 👍 Greetings from Germany.
Thanks for this Rex, it really felt like you were sharing what you'd learned, and you can see it in the confidence and quality of your work, it's reassuring to know we can all improve if we put in the miles ! Thorough in your content and clear in your narrative too - good stuff !
Excellent video! As mentioned elsewhere, if the lumber can be dampened and clamped flat when it's first brought home to cure, it will save work. Water does wonders with wood, just as its been done for centuries when bending wood. No reason it can't be done the other direction, to flatten it. Here's hoping the Almighty Algorithm approves of this like and comment, and places this video in front of many more faces!
Rex - thank you. The bit with getting the twist out has just presented a ‘eureka’ moment for me. My dopey brain has been trying to plane the middle out and wondering why I can never get anything truly flat. Even considered trying to sneak a thicknesser into the shop!
Thanks for taking us through the process, step by step, with great clarity. I did wonder about that second edge, though. Thanks for the correction. I will definitely be putting my fore (scrub) plane to more frequent use.
The drop test is very interesting. It appears to work quite well. Thank you for that one. Questions: 1. Would it be quicker to use a shooting board the true up the first edge? I assume you will use one for the ends of the board. 2. What is the practical size limit, length and width, for using this process? Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. 😀😀
I don't do this professionally, so my take is that good enough is good enough. Hoping to get better with practice. Anyway I have a small board that I know is flat and straight, I use it to find the raised edges and connected those through meridians. Plane the meridians away (they're raised so it will cut), check, repeat, then do a quick cleanup pass and sanding. I typically don't go all out with sharpening, just 2 minutes on the course and fine sides of a whetstone. Since it's hard to keep up for more than 3 hours, once every break is plenty fine.
One correction: to get the second edge parallel to the first, I would usually use a marking gauge or panel gauge. I was really focusing on flattening here, so I left out this important step.
Just came here to write this :), thanks for the informative video.
Alos not that important but camera started losing focus in a few parts, than regained focus, I don't know why that happens. (ex: 20:05 - 20:15 looking at the endgrain of your widest benchtop piece helps to catch it)
Step 3b 😜
Thanks for the clarification, I responded to this effect before seeing this comment.
May I suggest a link to your video on how to make your own marking gauge edited into your comment here? @RexKrueger
Before I flatten a board with a plane, I moisten the convex side, apply heat or clamp flat and put out in the sun. Gets most of the warp out. Once dry, the planning step is a lot shorter. Got the idea from: 1-wooden boat builders (steam heat) 2-native American arrow makers (hold over open flame then bend over knee). 3-Japanese cabinet makers. In other words, the heat and moisture method has been used for 1,000's of years. It took several attempts to figure it out. Now when I take boards home, I stick and clamp flat and let sit for a week. This has reduced the "flattening stage" to a minimum.
This comment adds such important context. How you deal with the wood BEFORE flattening will be more productive than any other single thing you do to prep wood. You can mitigate how much the wood warps as it acclimates. Warping is a result of the process, it is NOT an inherent property, so you CAN minimize it. The best flattening technique there is, is not having to do it in the first place (obviously you’ll always have to do some, but you get the idea).
Also, I wouldn’t trust free hand planing to provide a “perfectly perpendicular edge”. Firstly, ‘perfect’ is something to aspire to, not something that is achieved. Secondly, I would however trust a shooting board to provide a sufficiently square edge. I grant that these videos may be targeted towards less experienced woodworkers that don’t have one, but they are the ones that would need it the most. I speak from long painful experience, getting a free hand planed edge good enough is an exercise in frustration, even for some more experienced woodworkers! Rob Cosman has an amazing video on building and using your very own shooting board (of course he does), so it’s not out of anyone’s reach. Regardless, another excellent video!
If not quite perfect…. 😂
Sounds like a great idea for a video!
Yes, this! Also, wagon makers use the same wet and bend method for wagon covering bows - same method they've done for centuries.
Did you mean the concave side (cupped side)?
Johnnyvsx. I was thinking the same.
Loved the “thud versus clack” tip. I haven’t seen that ANYWHERE else - and I watch a LOT of hand tool woodworking content !
I would say that that is the definition of an absolutely flat board. So smooth it's got airbags
It's really striking how skilled Rex is at the art of teaching itself 🌷
He was a college English instructor. I guess that helped
Came here to say this
I agree. I like to see the progress he has made. His inflection has gotten gentler on the senses but still manages to convey his ideas in an easy to understand format.
Loved the dropping the board trick, never seen it before.
WHUB!
Love the content & these fundamentals tutorials are EXACTLY what new wood workers need. Thank you again for making it real for us Rex.
I think I’ve watched all of your videos, and this is far and away your best one yet. This style of old school, direct, basics teaching is amazing content. Keep it coming!
Im 30 and getting back into woodworking and see all these youtubers shoving boards into auto planers but I can't afford that so thank you for teaching the old skills
I use the whub test. It’s one of my favorites (thank you for giving it a name). I absolutely love taking two boards that have been planed flat and could sit there and whub them together for hours because it is just so darn satisfying. I also will take a straight edge and just spin it over the face to see if it catches any high spots.
" the whub test" ... I whub it!
"and whub them together for hours" hahahahahaha (yes)
this channel is LOADED with an insane amount of free information. learn something new every time i visit
That “whub” sound is my favorite sound in the world. :)
Holy crap Rex! This is you at your very best. Really bringing that education background into the forefront.
This video is brilliant. The whub whub vs the clack clack was a revelation to me.
I don’t know how you manage to show a process and I feel like i can go and do it. The way you demonstrate I find relaxing and encouraging. After everyone one of your videos I feel yep i can do that now. For a person who is extremely HDHD and has PTSD that means a lot. You and wood by wright are the only people so far that leave me feeling confident that i can. And I did after watching your videos I built myself a roman workbench and it works amazing. The confidence it has given me mind blowing thank you so much.
I really do respect the work of the other teachers, like Rob Cosman, Paul Sellers, that show their ways of dealing with the cup/twist deformations of the wood. But I have to tell you I like your method more. Thank you, Rex Krueger
I like how you get into the details I haven't seen from some others. I have rarely seen anyone go into so much detail about how to plane the wood or how important it is for fine work to be done.
I find it fascinating watching a highly skilled craftsman at work - and this video is a beautiful example of watching such a person.
That was Incredibly satisfying to watch :) Like wood ASMR
My son (8) shows interest in woodworking and we could find us a litte space in the old shed to install a very basic workshop. We had the idea to make some cutting boards and at some point you need a plain and square board :)
Obviously it is not in the budget to get a planer and jointer. Using handtools not only gives you much more appreciation for the work but you also learn how the material behaves when you work with it.
I have an ME Background and I started with handtools to get a square edge onto a piece of steel before even touching a milling machine. That way you really "get in sync" with the material and the limitations of the tools you have at your disposal.
Great Video!
Greetings from Germany
i loved learning the "feel" of planing, the stopping and starting you mentioned and what all that feedback means. but now i will also be listening for the sound of flatness!
I’ve been woodworking for almost 15 years and never heard of the drop test. I use a jointer (sorry!), but I’ll definitely be using that test to make sure my boards are flat. Thanks, Rex!
A jointer? Well la de da. I just throw wood through my thickness planer. Good enough.
First video I’ve watched of yours and even though I was thinking “oh man just get a jointer and planer, that’s what I want to do soon” I soon realised that I wish I had your craftsmanship and totally respect your skills. You’ve earned my sub
Your attention to detail is spectacular. Truing up a board is the friends we made along the way.
Thanks Rex, this video is gold! I'm a power tool woodworker using the 80's chic table saw etc I inherited from my grandpa. He didn't leave me a jointer or a planer, but there are a few hand planes hidden in the bunch. Your videos have made me hand-tool-curious, but I've not found such a straightforward explanation of how to use hand planes and what to watch for to know whether I'm actually getting it right. I'll be coming back to this video often!
You might check out Rob Cosman's You Tube site. He is a master with hand tools. Also Paul Sellers.
I literally searched for this exact video from this channel only days before it came out...what awesome power has been bestowed to me???
Thank you Rex for another superlative tutorial! Both the content and your teaching style are terrific. I agree that whub versus clack tip is super helpful.
It seems that wherever I start watching anything to do with hand tools, I end up at a Rex video. Always informative, even when I think I know what I'm doing with my tools. Great job sir.
Thanks! Your presentations never disappoint.
Rex, I can only imagine the patience required to gain the skill and expertise you so easily demonstrate. Wow.
I had no idea I was waiting for this video. This is the kind of instruction I haven't found anywhere else. What an invaluable lesson!
Truly useful and well presented. I've been using hand tools for going on 60 years and never tire of a really good tutorial. Every new hand tool woodworker should watch this.
I obtained some nice sapele rough 2x4, and have been cutting sticks from it for my projects. I rip it with a saw that I bought at a thrift shop and cut new, sharp teeth into, plane with a plane that I restored and homemade bench hook and shooting board. Learning the skills for all these things and using them to make a straight, square and smooth piece of lovely wood is immensely satisfying. Somehow, the wonder of it is lost on my wife, but, god bless her, she looks at it and says “That’s nice, dear”.
Now I need to make a marking gauge…
I'm happy to see you mention using that "drop trick" to judge flatness. I use my table saw to do that, and depending on the wood species, I try to get the sound down to a just a "puff" sound, almost silent. Occasionally if I'm really lucky, the board will skate a little, like an air-hockey puck. When you plane down to the gauge line, you can also judge your approach to the surface you want by touch. By felling the edges as you get very near the line, the edge will start to catch your finger as you brush upward. I reduce the cut depth and continue until a whisker of wood starts to appear around the edge, and use that whisker as a visual guide to close in on the exact thickness. The very last strokes leave a very small chamfer around the edges which marks the lower edge of the gauge mark. The pencil mark allows you to actually see the line as you get down to level. The method you learned is also discussed in an old book, Exercises in Wood Working by Ivin Sickels. It has been reprinted.
„Get the basics right and the rest will follow“ British football coach Fred Pentland, whose first unit at his new club Athletic Bilbao in the mid 1920s was „How to tie your football boot laces.“
I don't keep up with football but I love this anecdote.
This is the best video I've seen on the subject. Well done. I'm currently re-sawing some rough timbers, and prepping the boards - I know all this stuff, but I've been realizing that I need a repeatable process to keep myself on track and to complete this step more efficiently. There's nothing more frustrating than going too far with one step - like taking too much off the high corners, only to find that now the other two corners are too high. I need to be more aware of exactly what I need to take off, and to just take that off - sneaking up on it, and checking often.
Subscribed after about 6 minutes, fantastic video. I have watched a lot of videos about how to use a plane to flatten boards, and yours I actually understand because you included the plane technique. So many just assume you have used a plane before and just go into how to flatten a board but forget to tell you what to do with the plane while flattening.
I love the "organised" approach or systematic technique. I only wish I could press the "like" button several times or insert a star...to demonstrate how much I liked this video...priceless.
This man can teach. What great help, Rex.
that soundcheck section was worth the price of admission by itself!
Rex your really doing it buddy! Been following your videos for 2 years amd bought your book, awesome back to basics read , keep doing what your doing I love it !!!
Tons of respect for you bro! I’d get about 3 strokes into that before I’d say forget this and run it through the planer.
Now this is by far my favorite vid you've ever done🤘
Please do more of these in depth "how to" vids
You make the process enjoyable as apposed to time consuming and annoying lol
I’m so happy to see a video on flattening boards right before I do my biggest project where I need to flatten boards with hand tools. Unfortunately I only have a no.4 smoothing plane, but I’m sure it will work out 😅 thanks for the great content! I’ve made your mallet and short workbench and really enjoy them 🙏
Holy Crap! Two videos in one week! Christmas has come REALLY early! Thanks for posting. I love your work.
Just getting started (actually, restarting- false start back in 1983) with hand tool woodworking. Your videos have been an immense help. Thank you! 👍🏻
One of the best woodworking videos I have seen this year so far. Thanks and regards!
Rex, I have been doing woodwork for a few years now and I have followed this method. Even so I learned quite a few things today. Great video! Cheers!
Perfect. The easiest to understand explanation. Thanks Rex!
Thank you Patreons!
Love the sound test! First time i've heard about it, and had to immediately try it for myself. Great video Rex!
I definitely like this style of video much more than yesterday. Thanks Rex
I love how you slowed this down, great video
Man I haven't watched one of your videos in a long time, I watched them a lot last year. Good stuff. Thanks to Rex I have now made some little boards and it's really enjoyable. I just find flatb parts of logs that are firewood to be split, sometimes I can sneak a couple pieces out of the wood splitter and purposely try to split them into boards
There must thousands of videos on the net reflecting the same exact subject and method. Rex's videos have gotten to the point where they are simply more enjoyable to watch and provide tons of good info in a straight-to-the-point method. In addition, he gives credit where credit is due and avoids most, if not all, BS philosophy.
I really love these back to basics videos.
Hey Rex, This was a great video! Your preparation for delivering a clear and concise lesson on a sometimes frustrating but important task is apparent.
I really appreciate the style of this video. Love the detailed explanation of the process and indicators along the way!
Thank you so much, Rex, especially for the step by step explanation of your thinking while planing. As a beginner without anyone experienced around to train me this is so valuable!
Rex. Thank you for this patient and masterful video. And giving credit to the woodworkers who inspired you is the right way to be. Good stuff.
there’s this one board of oak I’ve been having trouble flattening. Just what I needed
Great information. I’ve avoided planes my whole life so my skill is novice level. My shop has recently been down-sized so I don’t have a thickness planer anymore. I’ve been trying some of your techniques and I’m getting pretty good results. I even find it’s very satisfying doing it by hand.
I really loved this video. I enjoy your regular style too but something about this video and the intentional pace made me so much more confident. I've played around with my planes but this gives me more of a "I'm practicing this skill" feeling. Thanks for the quality content!
Great video! Thank you for the acoustic improvements to your shop, they make a noticeable difference!
Thank you! I especially like the explanation of when to go for S4S and when you would stop after 1 side and 1 edge. I hadn't made that connection yet and have struggled with my current project, as a result.
I have just noticed Rex's correction - great minds
Good one! So many will show you how to sharpen and set up the plane, then take a few shavings off an edge and tell you 'this is how you use a plane'. There is a need for good 'beginner' exercises. Not shown in this one would be how to take out a warp on the edges, as in concave and convex. I would think it would be the same process. I had wondered about squaring up the edges, and you explained that one. My first attempts pretty much required me to skew the blade slightly since the edges were so angled. Using the camber in the iron works for ones that are 'close'. Thanks!
Good video!!! That is exactly how I dimension my stock.... It's a learning curve technique but it becomes very intuitive with time. My advice when working on stock of wood you should first start dimensioning the board in the worst condition that you can get dimension from and after attending this board it will be the " bench mark" to the rest.
I love this video. Old school style, but really advances understanding and an approach that anyone can replicate with a bit of practice.
OMG this was the most fantastic lesson, I can’t thank you enough Rex. Thump thump way to go !
Rex - great lesson. I really enjoyed watching it. I love the drop test, never seen that before but it makes so much sense.
Thanks for the other recommendations at the end, I’ll make sure to follow them up.
Please keep up these type of videos.
Ken, Southport UK
Awesome video and explanation Rex. Thank you. Greetings from Germany
For the final step (the second edge): you're getting it to be at 90° to the face, but there's no guarantee that it's parallel to the first edge. You'd want something like a panel gauge, or just measuring out the width you need and ripping/planing to that line.
I was surprised he didn't use a shooting board, was it to reduce the number of tools or because it's overkill?
I use my shooting board to square the side edges. As long as the iron is set right, the edge will come out square to the face the board is resting on.
@@trackie1957 True, but how do you check that it's 90° to the face AND parallel to the other edge? Do you measure the width of the board on both ends, then plane to that line?
@@BakerVS
Ahh, good question! As Rex said, often times it’s not necessary, but when it is, I just measure the width in several places and remove wood from the wide spots. Of course, this requires one edge to be straight and square. Most of my pieces are only a few inches wide so it’s easy. For something wider, I’d use a gage ( which I don’t have) or set my combination square to the narrowest spot and use that as my reference.
I love the simple detailed explanation, you have a great way of explaining things to me. Awesome stuff!
thanks for this. i am just getting started and found some free wood that is not square. your method makes sense
Easy approach, we’ll explained. Makes it lols easy, and is easy to understand.
Rex this is one of the best videos I have seen on this subject. Your work keeps getting better and better. Keep it up I've learned so much from you!
Excellent! One of your most informative videos. Thank you!
Excellent vid Rex!!! Your explanation and presentation was sublime!!! thanks man ~
Paul Sellers also has a video using the same technique for preparing rough lumber
Rex, I really enjoyed this video. It was very instruction-focused, and super informative. I'm gonna have to dig into your videos to find that fore plane, too. That thing's a monster I'd love to use.
I would just add that, especially if you have wider and longer boards, for face planing use creons for rough marking. It's faster and easier to see.
Again, with wide and long boards, if the cup/bow is significant (losing too much material) you can saw the board in half, thus dealing with less cup/bow per board and edge joint them in the end.
Thumbs up just does not do your videos justice, I need a BobRoss icon for your videos. They are just so good, keep up the excellent work!
Outstanding video. Been woodworking for a while and I learned a few new tips. Many thanks!
Thanks for the careful and detailed explanation. It may seem like a simple thing to someone who has mastered planes, but it can be a hard thing to learn well.
Excellent video Rex. You've outlined an intuitive, reproducible approach and provided an excellent demonstration - the proof is in the thud! Keep up the great work.
You got my vote on the whop, clack :P nice one Rex, thanks
Thank you, Rex! You explained it very easy to understand, but also very detailed. I learned a lot watching this Video. You make really great content. 👍
Greetings from Germany.
Well presented; I learned a lot. Thank you!
Thanks for this Rex, it really felt like you were sharing what you'd learned, and you can see it in the confidence and quality of your work, it's reassuring to know we can all improve if we put in the miles ! Thorough in your content and clear in your narrative too - good stuff !
Excellent video! As mentioned elsewhere, if the lumber can be dampened and clamped flat when it's first brought home to cure, it will save work. Water does wonders with wood, just as its been done for centuries when bending wood. No reason it can't be done the other direction, to flatten it.
Here's hoping the Almighty Algorithm approves of this like and comment, and places this video in front of many more faces!
Fascinating to this novice! Thank you very much.
Great video rex, this is very helpful as I am planning to make boards from oak logs
Great breakdown of the process!
Rex - thank you. The bit with getting the twist out has just presented a ‘eureka’ moment for me. My dopey brain has been trying to plane the middle out and wondering why I can never get anything truly flat. Even considered trying to sneak a thicknesser into the shop!
Thank you Rex for the great tutorial with excellent detail. I always appreciate your videos.
Thanks for taking us through the process, step by step, with great clarity. I did wonder about that second edge, though. Thanks for the correction. I will definitely be putting my fore (scrub) plane to more frequent use.
The drop test is very interesting. It appears to work quite well. Thank you for that one. Questions: 1. Would it be quicker to use a shooting board the true up the first edge? I assume you will use one for the ends of the board. 2. What is the practical size limit, length and width, for using this process? Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. 😀😀
Great video Rex! Nice tutorial for flattening boards. This will be very helpful for improving my hand plane skills.
I don't do this professionally, so my take is that good enough is good enough. Hoping to get better with practice. Anyway I have a small board that I know is flat and straight, I use it to find the raised edges and connected those through meridians. Plane the meridians away (they're raised so it will cut), check, repeat, then do a quick cleanup pass and sanding.
I typically don't go all out with sharpening, just 2 minutes on the course and fine sides of a whetstone. Since it's hard to keep up for more than 3 hours, once every break is plenty fine.
What a great video. Exactly what I needed to know!
Great video Rex, perfectly explained