Hey i have a question i recently change my civic 2010 o2 sensor bank1 sensor 2 and sensor 1 but the codes are still there before changing the sensors there was code engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction and problem but after i change o2 sensors this code is gone but new codes showed up which is air fuel ratio sensor short range performance problem. And rear air fuel bank 1 sensor 1 circuit out of range high these 2 code are showing with red engine light on scanner but not on dash.
Good stuff, writing this down for future use. Find the sensor heater and ground with an ohmmeter. On the harness find the heater hot with a test light. Find the harness permanent ground with a test light, it is used by the signal output. Then find the harness switched ground by turning on the engine power and a test light. The remaining harness wire is signal.
well i dont know how good it is to test ground a wire that receives a positive voltage signal . always make sure one finds the signal wire with a ohm meter before trying to find the grounds or the power wire . the signal wire is very sensitive and should never be ground or to have any other voltage input .
I love the fact that you explain everything so well , you get to the point in a timely fashion, you don't have horrible music , I can hear you perfectly ... thank you for making quality videos that I can use an don't have to skip thru half of it ... thanks again
Bro thanks for the info, I’ve learned so much in just 1 video of yours and I got my car to pass smog test that Mercedes tried to charge me an arm and a leg to fix the issue.
Dude, you make such great use of that testing light and multi-meter. I love the way you seem to be able to troubleshoot any electrical problem. You’re very impressive. I don’t have an immediate need for any of this knowledge, but I love watching a wiz at work so I enjoy your videos. You’re expertise is inspiring and you have a real knack for explaining these concepts so they are understandable even to a layman. Keep up the great work.
That's because ChrisFix is for non mechanical issues mostly, and when it is about real mechanics it's about peripheral hardware mostly. Scotty Kilmer is for N00Bs and Normies, lol… necessary because those have negative knowledge so… it's all myths and stereotypes
Hi. When decelerating, my fuel system is in open loop, but once the speed fall anywhere between 20 to 10 mph, for a second I get OL has not satisfied yet conditions to go to CL, then immediately goes into CL using all oxy sensors, while still decelerating down from 20 to a stop. What would that indicate and does need to be done? No codes, no lights. PS: you’re one of the most knowledgeable mechanics and the videos show it all.
RSSS68 Camaro If you had some knowledge to offer or anything beneficial for anyone they would be glad to help with a little bit of money for you to pay your bills. This guy makes so much informative content that really saves people a lot of money, if you save 300.00 on a trip to the mechanic you would gladly give 5 or 10 dollars out of gratitude.
@RSSS68 Camaro _ I would be HAPPY to help you pay your bills - just come up with great youtube content like Ratchets & Wrenches channel or South Main Auto Channel or ChrisFix, you get the idea! - and then start a Patreon, and people like me with give you a monthly payment - PS: I own a 1967 RS/SS Camaro, numbers matching convertible, in the original color, Royal Plum!
G'day Mate, I always watch your shows on my TV however today I'm using the computer to view your video on how to test 2 02 sensors. Which is why I'm using this opportunity to comment. Fantast work, your shows are easy to follow and always like/love the little side track you take us down usually comedy-type commentary. Cheers, very much appreciated. I'm from Australia. 👍
I love your descriptions the way you explane every thing my noggin (witch now is a mush melon from all the shots to said noggin in 53 yrs) I may get my 98 ram running finally. thanks man appreciate you.
I understand much better, how O2 sensors work and more importantly how to test them. I have a Tacoma truck, no error codes but, the O2 sensor and catalyst registers won't set. That has stumped everyone, no one knew what to do. I spent a ton of money trying to get at least one of the registers fixed and to set. I finally sit down cleared my mind and decided the forward o2 Sensor needed to be replaced. I got it replaced and the O2 Register set in less than 5 miles. I could get my truck registered now. Several months later the O2 register will not set again. The Catalyst never did even after spending $600 on a new catalytic converter. I'm still mad as hell about that. Smog issues are not fun, not many know what they are doing and just start replacing parts which add up very fast.
Your like one of the best mechanics on RUclips you explain things so its easy to understand aslo you have a really nice yard and house looks so nice love California
That's an interesting short hand trick. I've always reached for a diagram before moving forward, which is easy enough if you only work on a few cars. On paper it seems risky to send +12V into the PCM backwards along a signal wire that normally carries only 4.5V of miniscule current forward. However I see that many experienced and respected techs have confidence to do it all the time as a quick test, assuming the protection of resistors and diodes inside the driver. Of course current is limited by the test light resistance. It would be a different story if somebody used a jump wire from the pos side. It takes a little more work to back probe connectors while they are hooked up to measure functional values in a working sensor, especially if confused when the PCM shuts down the heater. Still, it is fun to see waveforms directly if one has the time.
I was thinking the same thing as I watched this. I am not a technician but have always tinkered lightly with electronics. I would feel saver hooking a test light up this way if it only lit an LED to further limit the current.
In this video I was only figuring out which wires are which and found the signal wire by finding the other 3 wires, sending only voltage and no current up the signal wire using a test light I strongly doubt would harm the PCM.
@@myRatchets to make your *test light* glow, current MUST flow through it....and if you don't know which wire is which, you really run the risk of cooking something in the pcm...like creating a gap in the ADC for the O2 sensor monitor.
@@myRatchets First, you don't have a choice. You can't just send voltage and not current. When using a test light, treat it like a piece of wire because that's what it is. A test like can easily blow a PCM. Careless techs do it every day. So much so, that shops are starting to ban the use of test lights just for that reason. If you want to be safe get a power probe with DVOM functions. You can touch that to any wire you want, and not have to worry. However, you can just as easily do damage like you can with a test light. Never push the button on a power probe unless you know exactly what you're doing. So, as long as you don't push the button, its a much safer tool to use over a test light.
Blessings, great videos. Question I have replaced the Catalyst converter and the 02 sensor that’s on my 2003 Honda Accord lx 2.4 why is the p0141 code still coming on after I have reset it? It’s the downstream 02 sensor that’s on the Catalytic converter
YOU ARE A GREAT GUY WITH FULL OF KNOWLEDGE AND LOVE YOUR PROFEESION AND ALSO AT SAME TIME LIKE PEOPLE TO LEARN FROM YOU I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS AND HAVE LEARN A LOT THANKS FOR EDUCATING US
Good Vid. Hey, mate in relation to these O2 Sensors. I have a 2000 Holden/Opel Astra with a 1.8 Ltr 4 cylinder in it similar to this motor. Now I had a set of new Extractors put on it and the O2 sensor was placed just downrange after the factor cast exhaust manifold. Basically, where all four pipes merged into one, is where it went. However, on the extractors the O2 sensor has been placed where only two out of four pipes merge (tri Y exhaust pattern) as this was how the extractors were made. My car seems to be using more fuel now so should I get the extractors modified so that the O2 sensor is placed after the merge of all pipes like the original factory manifold was. Any help appreciated.
Yes, have it modified so that the Oxygen Sensor is after where all four pipes converge. Right now it's only seeing 2/4 cylinders, and only seeing half of what it wants to. The car is seeing that the right amount of air is flowing in, so it's adjusting fuel timing to compensate. Moving the sensor should fix the excessive fuel consumption.
Awesome videos very helpful! So I’m in the same pickle, my 4pin o2 wire harness is toasted and melted on the vehicle side. My question is the signal wire is a shielded wire, how do I complete the circuit with incorporating shielding in the 4 pin configuration
Great video bud I have a 02 problem on my 2006 GMC Sierra 6.0 the former owner installed long tube headers and cut the cats off causing many problems I am constantly am running lean O2 heat sensors constantly go off multiple misfire problems how do I delete the O2 sensors please help
Great video.. quick question if you have the time to answer... if O2 sensor is throwing a fault code but car shows no other symptoms, not misfiring, not stalling, no smoke, no change in fuel economy etc (271D oxygen sensor heater before cat Bank 1) does this mean the whole sensor needs to be replaced or is there a workaround to repair it?
Thanks for the video Ratchets and Wrenches-keep up the good work, a dealership over filled the engine oil on my new Lexmoto 125 scooter twice and the bike is misfiring, the spark plug was fowled and I am guessing so must the oxygen lambda sensor which has the four wires, on the diagnostic the fuel integral term drops to minus -5 and so do the volts the engine is also over heating susceptibly, would anyone know if it is worth trying to clean the oxygen sensor and soaking it. over night with engine cleaner stuff in a jar or what else I could or should be looking out for when taking on this task please? God bless cheers
B1S1 connector - Terminal 1 and 2 are for the heater (HT and B+) and are BLU/BLK and BLK/ORG respectively. Terminals 3 and 4 are for the sensor (OXR2 and E) and are WHT and BRN.
Thanks for the video. I'm having an issue with my computer not switching the ground on and off. So therefore I get a rear O2 sensor code heater circuit. Can I grab ground from bank 1 sensor? Then this will turn the heater on and then it will be sensed by the computer that is running? Thanks again for the video
Question. I have a 15 Nissan Titan and on my 04 titan I could delete the rear cats without check engine light. I’ve heard the 07 and newer the oxygen sensor and the map sensor positions were replaced. So the map sensor is closest to the engine. Would this make a different as far as check engine lights go when I delete the rear cats on this truck
I’m an autozoner and had wondered why my customer had two different o2 sensors. One had the correct plug that matches what he needed but the down stream had a different plug by the end of of the o2 sensor. Upstream had a square looking plug in while the down stream had a triangle look. He says it won’t match his vehicle but I tried the best I can to match his vehicle. Are the down stream and up stream o2 sensors supposed to look different?
Does the power to the heating element, let's say for a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, shut off after it is warmed up enough? Because, if it does not, and the heating element portion of the O2sensor is bad, theoretically could one substitute the proper value resistor (and proper wattage power resistor) if the O2 sensor is a bear to remove? This of course just temporarily to get it to pass inspection until you have time to replace it and don't want to lay on the cold, snowy ground to do it.
You have outlined the hard way, the easy way is just to go to the pick & pull yard and clip the connector off of another Toyota of similar year range and match the wire colors
My car has a bad o2 sensor, but I drove it anyways for quite a while, and now, "out of nowhere", it started shaking and vibrating like crazy. Any explanations for that? Love the vids btw.
did you mean seagull....if you are going to correct someones spelling give them the correct spelling otherwise your are just wanting to make fun of them. Most seagulls I sea flie close to the oshun. LOL\ In any case great video as always, very informative and no nosense.
I have a 2006 Ford Mustang V6 changed all four o2 sensors with NGK o2 sensors and check engine light is on and trouble codes for all four o2 sensors. What would be the cause of that problem?
Wise subscription for anyone is to have a subscription to www.alldatadiy.com DIY in address means do it yourself. AllData Pro Version approximately $5,000.00 Yearly. It covers all vehicles. The DIY Version shows your Check Engine Light Code Descriptions, the possible reasons for the Code Number, the exact Grade of Oil you're supposed to be using for that particular vehicle, the exact amount in Quarts that's required for all of your Fluids, the exact amount of Torque that supposed to be placed on your Tire/Lug Wheel Nuts : All vehicles have different Tire/Lug Nut Torques, vehicles require different color of Anti-Freeze/Coolant. Once worked for a nice fella in Downey, CA. He put the Wrong Grade of Motor Oil in a Womans car, when she arrived in the Angeles Forest, her Engine Seized upon her....The Days of this Universal Mess for all cars is a No No. You need to install Ford "Motorcraft" Oxygen Sensors on the 2006 Ford Mustang.....All components have Part Numbers......We can screw up even by purchasing "4" Oxygen Sensors from the Ford Dealership Parts Department if we install the "2" Rear Oxygen Sensors on the Front and we installed the "2" Front Oxygen Sensors in the Rear.......So ask the Sales Woman or Man in the FORD PARTS DEPARTMENT , what are the Part #'s for the two Front Oxygen Sensors & what are the Part #'s for the Rear Oxygen Sensors.....Sometimes when we break the law on OBD -II vehicles (1996 & newer, especially 2005 & newer) we can end up with P0420 : Catalytic Converter Codes & the B.S. started with Inferior Oxygen Sensors, however; NGK ain't no B.S. Company, but they ain't working for that 2006 Mustang. Good Luck Hoss Hoss Barkwell Automotive GM Dealership & Independent Auto Shops background
My Moms 2007 Yaris had Check engine light for coil pac so I changed plugs and coil packs then code for bank 2 o2 sensor so bought cheapest one online Now code for bank 1 o2 sensor and code for running on 3 cylinders checked coil packs and spark plugs, there good. The car has little over 200000 miles and and afraid to spend the $160 for the bank 1 o2 sensor if it’s only running on 3 cinders. Do you think that o2 sensor will fix it or is the reason the code p0308 causing the code p2238. I also hear a slight knocking and that’s the cylinder that smells like gas. Watch you every time I have a question. Thanks for the awesome Channel
@@paulmccabe2889 At least not in the harness because one of the wires will have to be positive, that one could just as easily short out. But it's probably more the way the ecu or ecm works. it's probably easier to protect the ecm if it's switching ground rather than switching the positives. Honestly i'm not sure why at this moment.
Maaaannnnnn ! I am subscribed a a number of high level content providers but do not have the new video notification bell on for any of them… except one… :-) …. We if you’re not Italian you should be !!!!
In December I purchased a used 2004 Toyota Solara SE with the 2.4 four cylander engine. After three weeks I checked the oil dipstick and it was a quart low. There was no oil leaking, after doing some research I found out that these engines are known to burn oil. Two weeks ago I it was low another quart. During this same time I got a check engine light. I used a scan tool which said catallactic converter. The car did not bog down or run poorly, so I erased the code. Two weeks later the check engine light came back on and got the same code. I saw your video on Oxygen sensors how oil can gunk up the sensor. I am thinking the exhaust fumes which is carrying away excess oil due to the cars engine design defect, Will I be spending tons of money replacing the sensor on a routine basis? What do you recommend short of getting a different car or engine? Can I do something to prevent gunk from building up in the sensor prematurely?
I am new to oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. In my research I read that oil consumption can lead to fouled oxygen sensors and can also coat the inside of the catalytic converter. The least expensive option may be to use a catalytic converter cleaner in the gas. This may clean the sensors also. Although this may be temporary. If not, then replace the sensors. Other options include removal of the catalytic converter and cleaning with an overnight soak in detergent. The most expensive will be to replace the catalytic converter. As long as the oil consumption issue remains, the any attempt at repairs will revert back to where you are now.
My problem is that I really can't understand what you are explaining so I can not learn from you videos .. but I just try to get something from it..Thanks..
Nice video dude. Im currently working on why my car feels fast, smooth and quiet one day and lazy, sluggish and grunty another day. It drove me mad. I think my b1 s2 heater element retired early and not allowing ecu to enter closed loop sometimes. I reset the adaptions and feels alot better but goes back to lazy mode again later on.
Great video! I've received my "O sensor" without the plastic protector that goes around the metal end, and there's grease all over that end. Do you just wipe it put clean with a piece of cloth, or do you use something else, since that is the part you'll screw in? Thanks in advance for your details!
Like your video I have a Hyundai gdi and the air intake manifold as these little door to let the air in the engine how I bypass that so they stay open and free flow.
can the sensors be interchangeable if it's the same bank with the same type of plug? Like using a sensor 1 on the sensor 2? (i.e. using a downstream on an upstream, or an upstream on a downstream location)
I am glad that I viewed this video so I know where to look for the oxygen sensor and I know that you should check out the wiring going to the junction box first before checking the sensors to make sure that the wiring is fine too.
Thanks for this video, it's very clear :) A question if I may. I want to add a switch to disable/disconnet my O2 sensors on my motorcycle, to use when I'm racing and don't want/need that closed loop feedback (I've got a piggyback ECU to handle fueling). In your opinion which of those 4 wires should I switch, in order to fooling the ECU to think that the O2 sensor is disconnected? I'd guess it'll be the permanent ground wire, but that's just a hunch.
Dude you have forgot about more things dealing with the engine than I have ever known and I call myself pretty good. Keep doing what you do. If you treat the Presidency like your vehicle diagnostic hell I mean heck (keeping it PG) we will be a step above later I expect a check in the mail.
Nice video. However, I have a ford focus 2000 model ,but my downstream sensor has no single wire connected to it. It seems the wires were forcefully pulled.. the wires are completely damaged and missing. Please it is possible to rewire it,especially getting that signal wire that goes to the car's computer. Thanks
I check the signal wire as you instructed in the video and changed the oxygen sensor, but still get P015A, P015B, P014C, P014D code and engine light comes on. Any suggestions?
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
So I shot this video, edited it for a few hours than realized I misspelled signal on the whiteboard hahah wt..
I didn't even notice until I read it in your comment :) Great video!
After the first two letters on a whiteboard the rest always looks like scribble
Hey i have a question i recently change my civic 2010 o2 sensor bank1 sensor 2 and sensor 1 but the codes are still there before changing the sensors there was code engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction and problem but after i change o2 sensors this code is gone but new codes showed up which is air fuel ratio sensor short range performance problem. And rear air fuel bank 1 sensor 1 circuit out of range high these 2 code are showing with red engine light on scanner but not on dash.
delete it...
@@Cristip i don't have the scanner who can dalete those codes
Good stuff, writing this down for future use. Find the sensor heater and ground with an ohmmeter. On the harness find the heater hot with a test light. Find the harness permanent ground with a test light, it is used by the signal output. Then find the harness switched ground by turning on the engine power and a test light. The remaining harness wire is signal.
His patience and calm demeanor is awesome
Bro you make the most informative and accurate car repair videos on the tube.
well i dont know how good it is to test ground a wire that receives a positive voltage signal . always make sure one finds the signal wire with a ohm meter before trying to find the grounds or the power wire . the signal wire is very sensitive and should never be ground or to have any other voltage input .
Keep looking........ there's more out there
I’ve done plenty looking. This dude is the shiznit.
So how did he conclude the sensor wasn't the problem?
I love the fact that you explain everything so well , you get to the point in a timely fashion, you don't have horrible music , I can hear you perfectly ... thank you for making quality videos that I can use an don't have to skip thru half of it ... thanks again
exactly
Thanks man you are doing a service for society. I've never called b.s. on any of your stuff
Another perfect, easy listening vid. I wish you had more time to do these, you're the perfect informed
moderator.
Excellent description and explanation. Straight to the point without any fluff. Great video
Bro thanks for the info, I’ve learned so much in just 1 video of yours and I got my car to pass smog test that Mercedes tried to charge me an arm and a leg to fix the issue.
Dude, you make such great use of that testing light and multi-meter. I love the way you seem to be able to troubleshoot any electrical problem. You’re very impressive. I don’t have an immediate need for any of this knowledge, but I love watching a wiz at work so I enjoy your videos. You’re expertise is inspiring and you have a real knack for explaining these concepts so they are understandable even to a layman. Keep up the great work.
As a mechanic myself, I could not of said/shown it any better than that. Great video.
You bet!
Who needs Scotty Kilman or Chris fix !!!!!
Great video Thanks 😊
That's because ChrisFix is for non mechanical issues mostly, and when it is about real mechanics it's about peripheral hardware mostly.
Scotty Kilmer is for N00Bs and Normies, lol… necessary because those have negative knowledge so… it's all myths and stereotypes
Rebecca Campbell interesting BECCA 🤔
Hi. When decelerating, my fuel system is in open loop, but once the speed fall anywhere between 20 to 10 mph, for a second I get OL has not satisfied yet conditions to go to CL, then immediately goes into CL using all oxy sensors, while still decelerating down from 20 to a stop. What would that indicate and does need to be done? No codes, no lights.
PS: you’re one of the most knowledgeable mechanics and the videos show it all.
OMG! - after me pleading with you to do this for 4 years, you finally got a Patreon account!
RSSS68 Camaro If you had some knowledge to offer or anything beneficial for anyone they would be glad to help with a little bit of money for you to pay your bills. This guy makes so much informative content that really saves people a lot of money, if you save 300.00 on a trip to the mechanic you would gladly give 5 or 10 dollars out of gratitude.
@RSSS68 Camaro _ I would be HAPPY to help you pay your bills - just come up with great youtube content like Ratchets & Wrenches channel or South Main Auto Channel or ChrisFix, you get the idea! - and then start a Patreon, and people like me with give you a monthly payment - PS: I own a 1967 RS/SS Camaro, numbers matching convertible, in the original color, Royal Plum!
Run for president in 24. You got my vote. That explained everything i needed to know about my O2 issues. Thanx.
G'day Mate, I always watch your shows on my TV however today I'm using the computer to view your video on how to test 2 02 sensors. Which is why I'm using this opportunity to comment. Fantast work, your shows are easy to follow and always like/love the little side track you take us down usually comedy-type commentary. Cheers, very much appreciated. I'm from Australia. 👍
I can believe how easily you explain things that could take days to understand!!
Great job brother
I love your descriptions the way you explane every thing my noggin (witch now is a mush melon from all the shots to said noggin in 53 yrs) I may get my 98 ram running finally. thanks man appreciate you.
Thanks for great tutorial on oxygen sensor function and wiring, and identifying those wires.
I understand much better, how O2 sensors work and more importantly how to test them. I have a Tacoma truck, no error codes but, the O2 sensor and catalyst registers won't set. That has stumped everyone, no one knew what to do. I spent a ton of money trying to get at least one of the registers fixed and to set. I finally sit down cleared my mind and decided the forward o2 Sensor needed to be replaced. I got it replaced and the O2 Register set in less than 5 miles. I could get my truck registered now. Several months later the O2 register will not set again. The Catalyst never did even after spending $600 on a new catalytic converter. I'm still mad as hell about that. Smog issues are not fun, not many know what they are doing and just start replacing parts which add up very fast.
Excellent explanation. No bs wasting my time but straight to the point. Thank you sir.
If this guy is like me, he'll be running this video back and forth a few times. Great explanation. Probably better than the manual. Thanks
Thanks bud you’ve simplified hours of online wiring diagram searching for me. ✊
Man you explain things so concise and with brevity! I love it! Im subscribing and thanks!
Your like one of the best mechanics on RUclips you explain things so its easy to understand aslo you have a really nice yard and house looks so nice love California
Thanks for this video of teaching, you're a smart guy and a great mechanic I'm learning DIY, 4 years now and still much to learn. Thank you sir.
Good video my son will be able to do it for me keep videos coming
Outstanding info...thank you! I just happened to have an on-going oxygen sensor issue.
Great history, trouble shooting, and explanation of the how and why.
Thank you for the knowledge:-)
That's an interesting short hand trick. I've always reached for a diagram before moving forward, which is easy enough if you only work on a few cars. On paper it seems risky to send +12V into the PCM backwards along a signal wire that normally carries only 4.5V of miniscule current forward. However I see that many experienced and respected techs have confidence to do it all the time as a quick test, assuming the protection of resistors and diodes inside the driver. Of course current is limited by the test light resistance. It would be a different story if somebody used a jump wire from the pos side. It takes a little more work to back probe connectors while they are hooked up to measure functional values in a working sensor, especially if confused when the PCM shuts down the heater. Still, it is fun to see waveforms directly if one has the time.
Oh; that makes one feel a whole lot more confident especially when your new at this. LOL
I was thinking the same thing as I watched this. I am not a technician but have always tinkered lightly with electronics. I would feel saver hooking a test light up this way if it only lit an LED to further limit the current.
In this video I was only figuring out which wires are which and found the signal wire by finding the other 3 wires, sending only voltage and no current up the signal wire using a test light I strongly doubt would harm the PCM.
@@myRatchets to make your *test light* glow, current MUST flow through it....and if you don't know which wire is which, you really run the risk of cooking something in the pcm...like creating a gap in the ADC for the O2 sensor monitor.
@@myRatchets First, you don't have a choice. You can't just send voltage and not current. When using a test light, treat it like a piece of wire because that's what it is. A test like can easily blow a PCM. Careless techs do it every day. So much so, that shops are starting to ban the use of test lights just for that reason. If you want to be safe get a power probe with DVOM functions. You can touch that to any wire you want, and not have to worry. However, you can just as easily do damage like you can with a test light. Never push the button on a power probe unless you know exactly what you're doing. So, as long as you don't push the button, its a much safer tool to use over a test light.
Excellent video - generalized, precise and informative!
Thanks for the info, OK the Black and gray are the two sensor wires. Which of the two signal wires is the ground (-), and the + signal wire?
Blessings, great videos. Question I have replaced the Catalyst converter and the 02 sensor that’s on my 2003 Honda Accord lx 2.4 why is the p0141 code still coming on after I have reset it? It’s the downstream 02 sensor that’s on the Catalytic converter
I love this guy so much lol. I binge watch all his videos so much
Good watch made things simple
I am a diagnostic vehicle tech and loved your simplicity
Sir, I commend your calm and expert instructions. You remind me of my Auto Tech 1 teacher in college, Mr. Garza.
YOU ARE A GREAT GUY WITH FULL OF KNOWLEDGE AND LOVE YOUR PROFEESION AND ALSO AT SAME TIME LIKE PEOPLE TO LEARN FROM YOU I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS AND HAVE LEARN A LOT THANKS FOR EDUCATING US
Good Vid. Hey, mate in relation to these O2 Sensors. I have a 2000 Holden/Opel Astra with a 1.8 Ltr 4 cylinder in it similar to this motor. Now I had a set of new Extractors put on it and the O2 sensor was placed just downrange after the factor cast exhaust manifold. Basically, where all four pipes merged into one, is where it went. However, on the extractors the O2 sensor has been placed where only two out of four pipes merge (tri Y exhaust pattern) as this was how the extractors were made. My car seems to be using more fuel now so should I get the extractors modified so that the O2 sensor is placed after the merge of all pipes like the original factory manifold was. Any help appreciated.
Yes, have it modified so that the Oxygen Sensor is after where all four pipes converge. Right now it's only seeing 2/4 cylinders, and only seeing half of what it wants to. The car is seeing that the right amount of air is flowing in, so it's adjusting fuel timing to compensate. Moving the sensor should fix the excessive fuel consumption.
@@GalaxyOneFilms Cheers mate
WOWER MAN...that was a perfect comprehensive learn for the DIY GUY.
FANTASTICO
Paul had a good question and you got a good idea for a video. We all win!
Awesome videos very helpful! So I’m in the same pickle, my 4pin o2 wire harness is toasted and melted on the vehicle side. My question is the signal wire is a shielded wire, how do I complete the circuit with incorporating shielding in the 4 pin configuration
Great vid as usual. Love that u can simplify something that can be very confusing.
can u make a video about 5 wires wideband o2 sensor (lambda sensor) plz
So when a start cold 2:45 thats when your (rpm) drop from1000 to 900 Rpm after warming up the engine right?
Or is because the oil gets more soft when is hot and stars circulating trouh the engine lowering the (RPM)
I think its because the o2s start working only after getting to a certain temp and the car is running rich when you first start it up
Great video bud I have a 02 problem on my 2006 GMC Sierra 6.0 the former owner installed long tube headers and cut the cats off causing many problems I am constantly am running lean O2 heat sensors constantly go off multiple misfire problems how do I delete the O2 sensors please help
Great video . 'y signal wire is broken somewhere. Can I bridge to the other sensor ?
Great video.. quick question if you have the time to answer... if O2 sensor is throwing a fault code but car shows no other symptoms, not misfiring, not stalling, no smoke, no change in fuel economy etc (271D oxygen sensor heater before cat Bank 1) does this mean the whole sensor needs to be replaced or is there a workaround to repair it?
Nice video !! just wondering what is the signal wire for? with explantion please ... thanks
Thanks for your great presentations. Q = can you fool O2 sensor to make car little bit leaner without damage to system
Thanks for the video Ratchets and Wrenches-keep up the good work, a dealership over filled the engine oil on my new Lexmoto 125 scooter twice and the bike is misfiring, the spark plug was fowled and I am guessing so must the oxygen lambda sensor which has the four wires, on the diagnostic the fuel integral term drops to minus -5 and so do the volts the engine is also over heating susceptibly, would anyone know if it is worth trying to clean the oxygen sensor and soaking it. over night with engine cleaner stuff in a jar or what else I could or should be looking out for when taking on this task please? God bless cheers
B1S1 connector - Terminal 1 and 2 are for the heater (HT and B+) and are BLU/BLK and BLK/ORG respectively. Terminals 3 and 4 are for the sensor (OXR2 and E) and are WHT and BRN.
Eazy peezy boobie squeezy!! This has been added to my sayings!! Thank you! Love the videos very engaging and easy to follow!
Thanks for the video. I'm having an issue with my computer not switching the ground on and off. So therefore I get a rear O2 sensor code heater circuit. Can I grab ground from bank 1 sensor? Then this will turn the heater on and then it will be sensed by the computer that is running? Thanks again for the video
Question. I have a 15 Nissan Titan and on my 04 titan I could delete the rear cats without check engine light. I’ve heard the 07 and newer the oxygen sensor and the map sensor positions were replaced. So the map sensor is closest to the engine. Would this make a different as far as check engine lights go when I delete the rear cats on this truck
I’m an autozoner and had wondered why my customer had two different o2 sensors. One had the correct plug that matches what he needed but the down stream had a different plug by the end of of the o2 sensor. Upstream had a square looking plug in while the down stream had a triangle look. He says it won’t match his vehicle but I tried the best I can to match his vehicle. Are the down stream and up stream o2 sensors supposed to look different?
I'd vote for you if u run for President
Great job. Thank you.
please advise should i worry about shorting the computer when testing for ground wire with battery voltage? (5:44 & 7:15)?
Does the power to the heating element, let's say for a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, shut off after it is warmed up enough? Because, if it does not, and the heating element portion of the O2sensor is bad, theoretically could one substitute the proper value resistor (and proper wattage power resistor) if the O2 sensor is a bear to remove? This of course just temporarily to get it to pass inspection until you have time to replace it and don't want to lay on the cold, snowy ground to do it.
Very professional experience! You taught me something I didn't know today. Thank you, sir
Very good job of breaking it down for the people , I have a hard time explaining things like this to friends and customers.....great video...
How do you measure whell Hub? INNER DIAMETER, OUTTER DIAMETER, AND WIDTH? Anychance you can do a quick video?
You have outlined the hard way, the easy way is just to go to the pick & pull yard and clip the connector off of another Toyota of similar year range and match the wire colors
Lol. Yea but hey show us the cool way. Gd job
As always, great information using real life applications. Keep it going!
The switched ground that the ECm provides to the O2 sensor, is it a steady output?
Thanks for video. Is there a reason why the "switched ground'' cannot always be grounded directly to frame full time.
I think that would run your preheater circuit non stop which would kill the sensor and battery in short order?
So you identified the wires, how does this determine a faulty sensor or harness? If the heating element was bad in the sensor what would be the ohms?
Can a bad mass air flow meter make the oxygen sensor read 0 volts.
My car has a bad o2 sensor, but I drove it anyways for quite a while, and now, "out of nowhere", it started shaking and vibrating like crazy. Any explanations for that? Love the vids btw.
I have same problem is the reason stuck cayalytic converter ?
So is there a way to splice a combination of the wires to trick the ecu in the event of no cats?
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good one
did you mean seagull....if you are going to correct someones spelling give them the correct spelling otherwise your are just wanting to make fun of them. Most seagulls I sea flie close to the oshun. LOL\ In any case great video as always, very informative and no nosense.
Everything is sinewaves
I have a 2006 Ford Mustang V6 changed all four o2 sensors with NGK o2 sensors and check engine light is on and trouble codes for all four o2 sensors. What would be the cause of that problem?
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DIY in address means do it yourself.
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The DIY Version shows your Check Engine Light Code Descriptions, the possible reasons for the Code Number, the exact Grade of Oil you're supposed to be using for that particular vehicle, the exact amount in Quarts that's required for all of your Fluids, the exact amount of Torque that supposed to be placed on your Tire/Lug Wheel Nuts : All vehicles have different Tire/Lug Nut Torques, vehicles require different color of Anti-Freeze/Coolant.
Once worked for a nice fella in Downey, CA. He put the Wrong Grade of Motor Oil in a Womans car, when she arrived in the Angeles Forest, her Engine Seized upon her....The Days of this Universal Mess for all cars is a No No.
You need to install Ford "Motorcraft" Oxygen Sensors on the 2006 Ford Mustang.....All components have Part Numbers......We can screw up even by purchasing "4" Oxygen Sensors from the Ford Dealership Parts Department if we install the "2" Rear Oxygen Sensors on the Front and we installed the "2" Front Oxygen Sensors in the Rear.......So ask the Sales Woman or Man in the FORD PARTS DEPARTMENT , what are the Part #'s for the two Front Oxygen Sensors & what are the Part #'s for the Rear Oxygen Sensors.....Sometimes when we break the law on OBD -II vehicles
(1996 & newer, especially 2005 & newer) we can end up with P0420 : Catalytic Converter Codes & the B.S. started with Inferior Oxygen Sensors, however; NGK ain't no B.S. Company, but they ain't working for that 2006 Mustang.
Good Luck Hoss
Hoss Barkwell
Automotive GM Dealership & Independent Auto Shops background
Hi mate
Should I have continuity between the body of the sensor an the earth wire for signal...?
My Moms 2007 Yaris had Check engine light for coil pac so I changed plugs and coil packs then code for bank 2 o2 sensor so bought cheapest one online Now code for bank 1 o2 sensor and code for running on 3 cylinders checked coil packs and spark plugs, there good. The car has little over 200000 miles and and afraid to spend the $160 for the bank 1 o2 sensor if it’s only running on 3 cinders. Do you think that o2 sensor will fix it or is the reason the code p0308 causing the code p2238. I also hear a slight knocking and that’s the cylinder that smells like gas. Watch you every time I have a question. Thanks for the awesome Channel
Great instructional procedures,of how to determine which wire is which,thanks
That's good to know about the switching ground and the permanent ground. Nice!
Does anyone know the reason for not switching the positive?
@@paulmccabe2889 At least not in the harness because one of the wires will have to be positive, that one could just as easily short out. But it's probably more the way the ecu or ecm works. it's probably easier to protect the ecm if it's switching ground rather than switching the positives. Honestly i'm not sure why at this moment.
Does an O2 sensor or AF sensor have anything to do with the engine not running up to temperature? 2008 4runner with a 4.0 V6
Maaaannnnnn ! I am subscribed a a number of high level content providers but do not have the new video notification bell on for any of them… except one… :-) …. We if you’re not Italian you should be !!!!
In December I purchased a used 2004 Toyota Solara SE with the 2.4 four cylander engine. After three weeks I checked the oil dipstick and it was a quart low. There was no oil leaking, after doing some research I found out that these engines are known to burn oil. Two weeks ago I it was low another quart. During this same time I got a check engine light. I used a scan tool which said catallactic converter. The car did not bog down or run poorly, so I erased the code. Two weeks later the check engine light came back on and got the same code. I saw your video on Oxygen sensors how oil can gunk up the sensor. I am thinking the exhaust fumes which is carrying away excess oil due to the cars engine design defect, Will I be spending tons of money replacing the sensor on a routine basis? What do you recommend short of getting a different car or engine? Can I do something to prevent gunk from building up in the sensor prematurely?
I am new to oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. In my research I read that oil consumption can lead to fouled oxygen sensors and can also coat the inside of the catalytic converter. The least expensive option may be to use a catalytic converter cleaner in the gas. This may clean the sensors also. Although this may be temporary. If not, then replace the sensors. Other options include removal of the catalytic converter and cleaning with an overnight soak in detergent. The most expensive will be to replace the catalytic converter. As long as the oil consumption issue remains, the any attempt at repairs will revert back to where you are now.
My problem is that I really can't understand what you are explaining so I can not learn from you videos .. but I just try to get something from it..Thanks..
Hi .
Great video but I've a sensor with 5 wires, what is the fifth wire for, and why is the connector with 6 pins but only 5 wires ???
Nice video dude. Im currently working on why my car feels fast, smooth and quiet one day and lazy, sluggish and grunty another day. It drove me mad. I think my b1 s2 heater element retired early and not allowing ecu to enter closed loop sometimes. I reset the adaptions and feels alot better but goes back to lazy mode again later on.
Thank you brother you just showed me how to fix my wiring an it worked perfectly!!
Great video! I've received my "O sensor" without the plastic protector that goes around the metal end, and there's grease all over that end. Do you just wipe it put clean with a piece of cloth, or do you use something else, since that is the part you'll screw in? Thanks in advance for your details!
Hey buddy great video I've been a mechanic most of my life but I've always been intimidated by the electronical
Like your video I have a Hyundai gdi and the air intake manifold as these little door to let the air in the engine how I bypass that so they stay open and free flow.
Do you need to disconnect your car battery to replace your O2 sensors
Yes negative cable 😎👍🏾
dude ! whats a good resistance for a o2 sensor ? thanks for videos !
can the sensors be interchangeable if it's the same bank with the same type of plug? Like using a sensor 1 on the sensor 2? (i.e. using a downstream on an upstream, or an upstream on a downstream location)
Great video as always. Will try and wire a 2 wire O2 sensor soon. Will let you know how it goes
Thank you I have been dealing with a 05 f150 burned wires that I had hooked up wrong
Is the procedure the same for the downsream sensor
I am glad that I viewed this video so I know where to look for the oxygen sensor and I know that you should check out the wiring going to the junction box first before checking the sensors to make sure that the wiring is fine too.
Thanks for this video, it's very clear :)
A question if I may. I want to add a switch to disable/disconnet my O2 sensors on my motorcycle, to use when I'm racing and don't want/need that closed loop feedback (I've got a piggyback ECU to handle fueling). In your opinion which of those 4 wires should I switch, in order to fooling the ECU to think that the O2 sensor is disconnected? I'd guess it'll be the permanent ground wire, but that's just a hunch.
I like your videos because they are more informative & value
Big gratings from KSA
Where does the sub harness connect to and can it be replaced..??
Dude you have forgot about more things dealing with the engine than I have ever known and I call myself pretty good. Keep doing what you do. If you treat the Presidency like your vehicle diagnostic hell I mean heck (keeping it PG) we will be a step above later I expect a check in the mail.
Nice video.
However, I have a ford focus 2000 model ,but my downstream sensor has no single wire connected to it. It seems the wires were forcefully pulled.. the wires are completely damaged and missing. Please it is possible to rewire it,especially getting that signal wire that goes to the car's computer. Thanks
Does this test procedure work on just the vehicle on the video, or others. I have a 2006 Honda CRV. Will it work for this car?
I check the signal wire as you instructed in the video and changed the oxygen sensor, but still get P015A, P015B, P014C, P014D code and engine light comes on. Any suggestions?
Are the threads the same on all the O2 sensors?
What a useful video. My o2 sensor is acting up on my 2001 Olds Intrigue. I wanted to know wth is up and your video is greatly informative.