Always nice to see an educational video on cap-n-ball revolvers. I've had an inexpensive Pietta .44 since 1984. Videos like this are handy and essential to black powder shooters. Thanks.
The stock wedge flew out of my Pietta 1851 Navy Yank and was lost on the gun range 😭. Just got my new one in the mail. Thank you for this informative video.
I have a new in the box third gen Colt signature series 1860 and decided to take it down for cleaning. I couldn't get the wedge out after tapping on in no way no how. I removed the screw a whala. Came right out. The leaf spring is flat down in the grove as well. None of the other videos I have watched tells you to remove the screw. Thanks!
My 1851 Navy has this same set up. It's almost 40 years old and I've never had an issue with the wedge not staying in. I built mine from a kit I bought for under $100.00 in 1985. Great video.
Just found your site. Great stuff! Nothing more embarrassing than having to walk down range to retrieve your barrel. This is the voice of experience here.
Thank you for your explanation of wedge fit Blackie. Sometimes its difficult to tell how a given feature was intended to function based on the reproduction market.
I have an Uberti Walker that has an insanely tight wedge; unfortunately, it also suffers from the "short arbor" [actually, too deep hole in the barrel assembly] problem & I haven't yet obtained a spherical tuit to remedy the situation... ;-)
Thanks for making this video, always wondered why my wedge was so tight. It always sits flush with the opposite side, it’s never come apart. Dixie told me it would wear itself into place over time. They were right.
Thankfully all my repro's have had excellent wedge fits. My pietta 1860 has such a good wedge it cannot drop out the frame unless you remove the retaining screw. The other day I looked at a original 1860 that was so worn out the original civil war shooter has the wedge pounded dam near through the other side and that revolver had zero rifling left, even with the wedge pounded almost out the other side of the barrel the cylinder gap and play was rediculuiols, man the stories that gun could probably tell.
many of those gun fought on till the late yrs in the hands of poor who could not afford better..i saw a few when i was small in the 1960;s still serving as home protection
@@BLACKIETHOMAS I still put my 1860 army in home protection rotation every now and then, but then again I have relied on it in the mountains so I trust it call me crazy but it's nice to hold a part of history in your hands. Man it would be nice to live in a slower simpler time! Keep up the great work!
I had a gun that the wedge would go all the in and the gun felt well , not tight. Ihad some .005 tk. Copper I got from Amazon made by K&S. I used it to make caps. Icut a piece to fit in the wedge slot. Pulling the wedge out as far as you can, you don't need to remove the screw, put the shim in the slot on the right side. Push the wedge in, fold the ends down. You will have a gun that feels like it's a one pc. Gun.
You have some great info on your videos.I see lots of these problems in out of the box shooting videos.Loose wedges and dropping loading levers. They are easily fixed with your info I am getting a New Army Remington Brass to play with. I think the top strap helps alot. Thanks.
Thank you for this explanation. I have a Belgian made Centaur 1860/1960 New Model Army. 60 years old, never been fired, never been apart. Fit and finish are excellent. I wondered about the screw, I see my barrel wedge is in upside down.
You mentioned the wedge is the expendable part, this is something I always try to drum into people, if you are going to modify something, modify the cheapest part. In this situation the wedge is the cheapest part, if you mess it up, its not that big a deal, messing up the slot in the barrel assembly could be a LOT more expensive.
I just recently was able to handle a Colt 1847. Not something I would want to carry! I had no clue what the "wedge" function was. Thank you for explaining it to me/us.
All Uberti Colt clone cartridge conversions do not have a spring. Uberti could help some issues with all their colt open top type revolvers by making the arbor the correct length.
Actually, the little spring in the wedge has only one purpose, to interact with the screw and hold the wedge to the barrel. As far as the wedge relationship to the exit of the slot on the right side of the barrel, it should be set to just over flush on a friction fit to allow more adjustments over time.
I just got a Pietta 1851 navy and I never have had to take the screw out above the wedge. It comes all the way out easy. I will order another wedge and hope the new one works as it should. thanks for the vid.
My Pietta 1851 is the same way. Seems like the wedge should be a touch longer, to the same length as the spring. @tccoup355, did you get a new wedge that fit properly?
if you make changes to your wedge for a better fit on your navy it would be nice to see what you have done. Thanks for the video's please keep them comming.
Great video I just came a cross a petta replica 44 it had never been shot for 25 dollars started buying the stuff I need to get started I've got more in the things I need then what I give for the gun got one more thing to buy and I can shoot it I've watched a lot of your cap and ball videos have been very helpful so thanks from wva
I just found this channel. Mr. Thomas has filled in a needed "gap" in the percussion revolver information. Longhunters' video is the only other video with original Colt information.
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Yes sir. I finally got to handle an 1861 Navy. I really can't believe I've missed out on these. It literally felt like an extension of my arm. I'm perusing Long Hunter's website and drooling. I've also been binge watching your videos today. I feel like I'll "have a head start" before I purchase one of these. Thanks again for taking the time to make these.
today being 6/14/2023, 4 days ago after saving for 2 1/2 years, i became the proud owner of a traditions navy engraved .44 cal. nickel black powder revolver. a very beautiful firearm where even the front of the 7" barrow is engraved. now the instructions on how to take it apart for cleaning are very vague so i could use some advice. since the gun cost $545.00 dollars i want to make sure not to break something or to lose any springs i did not know about. it seems to use the same wedge and screw system as shown in the video above.
awesome you want to tap the wedge out with a soft hammer (plastic) OR some other non marring tool once it is free it may not come out of the barrel thats the job of the screw to keep the wedge from being lost some will come on out however once the wedge is free cock hammer to half cock rotate cyl until the lend of the loading lever ram will come down and land on cyl between chambers them use the loading lever to push the barrel and frame apart this will get easy once you have shot a bit
@@BLACKIETHOMAS thanks for the info. but right now all i have is a small tack hammer and a rubber mallet. also is the wedge made of plastic or metal? i want to make sure i don't risk breaking it. and do you know where there is a reliable source of parts for black powder revolvers? like spare cylinders?
There's little point in discussing the fit of the wedge until after the proper fit of the barrel to the frame and arbor has been established. It's a bit like putting the cart before the horse. Order of operations: First A, then B. B can never be right if A isn't right beforehand.
Mine are the same way but I never loose mine. After every shot I noticed its fine. I push it up a little but I can change cylinders faster than I can reload a peacemaker or my 1858. On my twin 1851 colt sheriff I bought a new wedge but ended up modifying it a little also its missing the screw you described. I didn't notice a difference so I left it the way it is for now.
Go Blackie! we need more of these videos. I ensure that the wedge contact points are f l u s h in contact with the base pin/barrel. , and that the wedge is adequately protruding from the barrel. If the wedge needs reshaping, I have learned that 'forging' it is better than grinding it. Shaping it with a hammer so that the steel compresses and shapes properly to be flush with the 3 contact points. recently I had a welder run a bead along the base pin contact edge of two Dragoon wedges. I shaped them initially with a file and then hammered them for their final contact point fitting. GET SOME! It works quite w e l l ! I recently ordered/received 5 Authentic Colt Dragoon, and 5 Walker wedges. Ubertis don t fit.
With my Navy 1861 (Pietta), I pushed the wedge just enough into barrel. Not too strong beacause wedge can be damaged. However, my wedge can't be never removed with the hand. I think that we don't use too heavy powder charges. Specially to fire at 25 M. Heavy charges cause mechanical wear, intempestive dropping levers. That's never happen when I fired with my gun ...Long time ago :(
I prefer the uberti remington style .44 caliber repros myself especially for the solid frame and the easy cylinder removal and cylinder installation and the less screws that make it easier to replace the trigger stop spring and I love to use the Howell .45 colt centerfire cowboy load cartridge conversion cylinders with them
Never use sandpaper to adjust or to refine working machanical parts. Use only proper files. Sandpaper leaves invisible silica grains nestled into steel parts that will act as abrasive themselves
Great video. It occurres to me that some of that heavy steel banding material that holds things on pallets for shipping, might be just the thing for making replacement leaf springs for your barrel wedges. I'll let you know if it works out. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for sharing a helpful video sir. You pointed out some interesting tips about that wedge that I haven’t heard mentioned when guys are just discussing assembly/disassembly.
So doing a cartridge conversion is not a good idea for this model, that would mean every time you fired the weapon you would have to take that wedge out to get the spent shells out of the cylinder
same here, 1851 two of them, brass and steel pietta. 44cal.. the wegde was PAIN in the ass the get out, i had to use brass punchs... which of ccourse nicked the steel on my gun by the wedges.. so its unsightly.. i dont know why they hammered them in so frigging hard... I also dont get how a brass punch damaged hardened steel.. i think the steel on these guns are really really cheesy and not hardened. Once i got the wedge out though.. i can remove it by hand and insert it by hand now
Great info! I hope more folks visit your site and learn from it. By the way...you could play the part of Billy Bob Thorntons brother in the movies! ::grinning::
Blackie, I had a dumb backwards moment and drove my wedge in backwards. What do I need to expect? Mind you the cylinder rotates, the barrel gap is perfect, the weapon operates as it should.
Blackie the wedge info is great to know but what about a lost wedge screw that cannot be replaced like a armi san marco screw to a black powder revolver.
Hey Blackie, my late friend, a retired Air Force General, gifted me an 1860 Army Colt replica by Pietta. My problem is, the wedge is stuck fast and I can’t remove it. I’ve tried wooden and metal punches to try and drive it out, soaked it with Ballistol to try and loosen it, nothing has worked. I’ve tried to be careful so as to avoid marring the finish, but the Dern wedge just won’t move! Any suggestions on something I can try, to shift that wedge. Thank you for your time. Regards, Alan Hope
I see the kidderidders beat and beat the poor thingeringers in and then beat the hell outathem to get them back out.mine is perfectly hard to get it in to a firm snap! I can use my thumb nail with just a bit of umph to get the spring down. I can pull it straight out to stop at the screw.
I broke the wegde "spring" on my Pietta 1851 navy today. Thoughts on firing it without the spring? Seems to me it mostly does nothing anyway 😂 thanks for the vids man!
the spring is to keep the wedge from falling out or walking out during firing..it kinda clips to the frame on the far side..it will fire with out spring..just keep a eye on the wedge and be sure its fully seated or ya pull the trigger and the barrel launches
I have a proper fitting wedge spring. I tried to take the wedge screw out, but my inappropriate screwdriver was starting to tear the screw top. What screwdriver can I use to take that screw out? BTW. This is the best wedge video in the world. If there is a better one, please let me know.
I hope you see this and I know this is an old Video but Just got into BP shooting and ordered a 1851 Naval Colt 44 by Pietta also ordered a complete set of action replacement parts including the wedge and new set of screws just to be on the ready down the road. I have a question Blackie but first I must say I am very grateful for your videos they are the most down to earth instruction for BP revolvers out there. My question is why couldn't one change out the Arbor to a high quality steel that the slot for the wedge wouldn't loose its size and could withstand the pressures ?
If you have an arbor that is properly fitted to the barrel the strain on the wedge is greatly reduced. Piettas are better than Uberti on proper arbor frame fit but does need to be checked and fitted if necessary.
So is it normal if I take my hammer and can easily tap out the wedge without pressing down on the pin in the wedge? I can’t push it out with fingers but requires a tap or two with my hammer
Since the wedge is made of SOFT steel it deforms more than the few thousandths the barrel slot does after a few shots. More like shapes itself like a banana after many shots and left more than .025" after about the first 30 shots and got tired of the wedge falling out and blowing the barrel off. Of course the steel of the wedge that came with the gun is not quality or hardened. The wedges they supply are 'mildly hardened' but not fully and cannot stand up to repeated hammering of the recoil. I solved my wedge problem by milling a new wedge to spec (with a bit more 'wedge' length to pick up possible future slack) but used A2 steel then hardened it. I didn't add a retainer to the wedge. The wedge never deformed again and I shot the gun for about 15 years before 2000 with no further deformation and can usually pop the wedge out with my thumb after firing. No hammering as with the stock wedge! So I hope that helps some who have wedge problems I saw others have and just as you had. The barrel wedge slot does deform also but only a little over time ... the slot is supported on both sides of the wedge so deformation is minimal compared to the small contact area (higher impact) on the cylinder spindle. The wedge taper and width is extended almost .10 towards the wedge wider side so it has plenty of 'wedge' to a compensate a deformed slot. I'm a little late seeing this post of yours but was happy to see you had the same issues to alert users to.
If you can find any evidence, from the period, of Civil War fighters carrying extra Colt cylinders for the purpose of reloading the gun, I'd like to see it. There's been a LOT of discussion of this on the forums for many years, and I've yet to see the evidence.
it starts out nice and tight, but the back and forth motion eventually stretches out the slot and, while it might still do the job more or less, it's not as good as it once was
Hey Blackie! I just received and 1861 Pietta and noticed that when the wedge is seated to the point that the spring lip just clicks up on the barrel slot, the barrel wiggles. If I tap it in it snugs up nicely but the spring lip is extended out the right hand side of the barrel further. Is this normal?
In my pietta 1851 navy the wedge is difficult to remove at times. Do I need the remove the screw entirely to pull the wedge from the frame? I find I need to push down on the spring while tapping the end of the wedge with the brass butt of a knife to work it free. Isn't that too tight?
I never knew any of this. I just bought a used replica colt 44 1860 army pistol. Let me check my wedge. The gun was well oiled when I got it, so I think it was well taken care of. Ok, the wedge moves like it wants to come out, but then stops, so I think it will not come out with out removing the screw. The spring tab side of the wedge seems to be a little 'hammered' on, it is not pristine, and looks like someone tapped on it a bit to remove it. It is not falling out on its own, I don't think ever. I sure don't what to loose my barrel when I fire.
I got a Asm 1851 Colt Navy and the box that I got it in had holes in the styrofoam and so Parts would fall out and I ended up getting all of them except for the wedge pen which I believe I inadvertently threw away because I never throw anything away. So when I decide to throw the one thing away it's something I need. So I ordered one from pieti because I've waited months and months and I cannot find an ASM brand and it seems they're okay. But I go to put it in and the wedge is too big.
I recently purchased an 1860 Armi San Marco with a wedge that I have to knock in only in far enough to poke out the left side receiver not much more than a 32nd, give or take, or the action(cylinder) seizes up. Any idea what that is symptomatic of?
I haven’t fired this 1978 Pietta revolver in a decade. Upon examination now 2021, the cylinder can be pushed rearward about 1mm, even at full cock. Wedge *seems OK, if compressed minimally. Main axle could be encouraged to screw-in rotate 180°? Do I replace wedge AND main axle? Perhaps bolt is worn? Looks fine
Thanks my guy. Just got my first percussion, 1851 Colt Navy from 1970. This was very helpful.
Always nice to see an educational video on cap-n-ball revolvers. I've had an inexpensive Pietta .44 since 1984. Videos like this are handy and essential to black powder shooters. Thanks.
This has been very instructive. That Wedge is always difficult but now I am fully aware about why. Many thanks from the UK
Whats the process for acquiring and shooting black power revolvers in the UK? As arduous as and restrictive as a pistol license?
The stock wedge flew out of my Pietta 1851 Navy Yank and was lost on the gun range 😭. Just got my new one in the mail. Thank you for this informative video.
I have a new in the box third gen Colt signature series 1860 and decided to take it down for cleaning. I couldn't get the wedge out after tapping on in no way no how. I removed the screw a whala. Came right out. The leaf spring is flat down in the grove as well. None of the other videos I have watched tells you to remove the screw. Thanks!
My 1851 Navy has this same set up. It's almost 40 years old and I've never had an issue with the wedge not staying in.
I built mine from a kit I bought for under $100.00 in 1985. Great video.
Very informative to a newbie like myself. Thank you. I just bought a 1847 Colt Walker and a 1848 third model dragoon.
Just found your site. Great stuff! Nothing more embarrassing than having to walk down range to retrieve your barrel. This is the voice of experience here.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience here, it's greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your explanation of wedge fit Blackie. Sometimes its difficult to tell how a given feature was intended to function based on the reproduction market.
Thank you for being a badass and knowing your shit 👏🏻
The wedge on my Uberti 1860 had a really good fit out of the box.
I have an Uberti Walker that has an insanely tight wedge; unfortunately, it also suffers from the "short arbor" [actually, too deep hole in the barrel assembly] problem & I haven't yet obtained a spherical tuit to remedy the situation... ;-)
This is a very good video, I just bought an 1860 remake of a Colt, so I Thank You for your comments !
Thanks for making this video, always wondered why my wedge was so tight. It always sits flush with the opposite side, it’s never come apart. Dixie told me it would wear itself into place over time. They were right.
yep it will take up the natural slack of shooting and the frame /wedge /slot
Thankfully all my repro's have had excellent wedge fits. My pietta 1860 has such a good wedge it cannot drop out the frame unless you remove the retaining screw.
The other day I looked at a original 1860 that was so worn out the original civil war shooter has the wedge pounded dam near through the other side and that revolver had zero rifling left, even with the wedge pounded almost out the other side of the barrel the cylinder gap and play was rediculuiols, man the stories that gun could probably tell.
many of those gun fought on till the late yrs in the hands of poor who could not afford better..i saw a few when i was small in the 1960;s still serving as home protection
@@BLACKIETHOMAS I still put my 1860 army in home protection rotation every now and then, but then again I have relied on it in the mountains so I trust it call me crazy but it's nice to hold a part of history in your hands.
Man it would be nice to live in a slower simpler time! Keep up the great work!
Seems the original owner needed a new wedgie.
Thanks Blackie! I have learned a lot from your videos. I just bought my first wedge gun, 1st Model Dragoon. Great info brother.
I have a Uberti 1851 Navy. That wedge fits just as you described it should.
Great information Blackie. Excellant story at the end, had to chuckle a little.
I have 2 replicas- both are easily removed by hand. Thanks for the info, esp. the fact they are easy to buy replacements!
I had a gun that the wedge would go all the in and the gun felt well , not tight. Ihad some .005 tk. Copper I got from Amazon made by K&S. I used it to make caps. Icut a piece to fit in the wedge slot. Pulling the wedge out as far as you can, you don't need to remove the screw, put the shim in the slot on the right side. Push the wedge in, fold the ends down. You will have a gun that feels like it's a one pc. Gun.
You have some great info on your videos.I see lots of these problems in out of the box shooting videos.Loose wedges and dropping loading levers. They are easily fixed with your info I am getting a New Army Remington Brass to play with. I think the top strap helps alot. Thanks.
i had not shot my my colt in many years and forgot what side it went in. Got the that fixed and other good education from the video.
Thank you for explaining the wedge in detail.
it does give insight as to who to take advise from.....
thanks for watching
Thank you for this explanation. I have a Belgian made Centaur 1860/1960 New Model Army. 60 years old, never been fired, never been apart. Fit and finish are excellent. I wondered about the screw, I see my barrel wedge is in upside down.
You mentioned the wedge is the expendable part, this is something I always try to drum into people, if you are going to modify something, modify the cheapest part. In this situation the wedge is the cheapest part, if you mess it up, its not that big a deal, messing up the slot in the barrel assembly could be a LOT more expensive.
What would you be modifying?
Incidentally, Dixie Gun works still has the replacement wedge, ($12.95) and the spring ($4.95) as of November 2023.
I just recently was able to handle a Colt 1847. Not something I would want to carry! I had no clue what the "wedge" function was. Thank you for explaining it to me/us.
All Uberti Colt clone cartridge conversions do not have a spring. Uberti could help some issues with all their colt open top type revolvers by making the arbor the correct length.
Actually, the little spring in the wedge has only one purpose, to interact with the screw and hold the wedge to the barrel. As far as the wedge relationship to the exit of the slot on the right side of the barrel, it should be set to just over flush on a friction fit to allow more adjustments over time.
I have an 1851 Sheriff I can't get the wedge out what do I do
My screw has been missing for well over 20 years. It never seemed to do anything anyway
I just got a Pietta 1851 navy and I never have had to take the screw out above the wedge. It comes all the way out easy. I will order another wedge and hope the new one works as it should. thanks for the vid.
My Pietta 1851 is the same way. Seems like the wedge should be a touch longer, to the same length as the spring. @tccoup355, did you get a new wedge that fit properly?
Great informative video. Thanks.
I have an old navy arms pietta. 1851. Once it's old old get a longer screw that will hold the wedge in instead of not
Thanks for the information that is very helpful information especially about the spring
Glad it was helpful!
You make extremely informative videos. Thanks.
Thank you for the info on this subject. I was really wandering if it was right or not. I should be able to convert the piece some how. Thanks again.
if you make changes to your wedge for a better fit on your navy it would be nice to see what you have done. Thanks for the video's please keep them comming.
Great video I just came a cross a petta replica 44 it had never been shot for 25 dollars started buying the stuff I need to get started I've got more in the things I need then what I give for the gun got one more thing to buy and I can shoot it I've watched a lot of your cap and ball videos have been very helpful so thanks from wva
Thanks for the content
This is gold. Thanks a million!
Thank you for the great information
Helps ain't the word. Thank you jesus. Great video like always. Thanks God bless.👍
Thank you too
I just found this channel. Mr. Thomas has filled in a needed "gap" in the percussion revolver information. Longhunters' video is the only other video with original Colt information.
glad you found it of use
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Yes sir. I finally got to handle an 1861 Navy. I really can't believe I've missed out on these. It literally felt like an extension of my arm. I'm perusing Long Hunter's website and drooling. I've also been binge watching your videos today. I feel like I'll "have a head start" before I purchase one of these. Thanks again for taking the time to make these.
I recently bought a 2" 1861 replacement barrel and 2 wedges from EMF. They are really good to deal with!!!
nice
Very well done, Thank you...
I bend my wedge spring just a tad if needed. And use a file to square up the mating surface.
today being 6/14/2023, 4 days ago after saving for 2 1/2 years, i became the proud owner of a traditions navy engraved .44 cal. nickel black powder revolver. a very beautiful firearm where even the front of the 7" barrow is engraved. now the instructions on how to take it apart for cleaning are very vague so i could use some advice. since the gun cost $545.00 dollars i want to make sure not to break something or to lose any springs i did not know about. it seems to use the same wedge and screw system as shown in the video above.
awesome you want to tap the wedge out with a soft hammer (plastic) OR some other non marring tool once it is free it may not come out of the barrel thats the job of the screw to keep the wedge from being lost some will come on out however once the wedge is free cock hammer to half cock rotate cyl until the lend of the loading lever ram will come down and land on cyl between chambers them use the loading lever to push the barrel and frame apart this will get easy once you have shot a bit
@@BLACKIETHOMAS thanks for the info. but right now all i have is a small tack hammer and a rubber mallet. also is the wedge made of plastic or metal? i want to make sure i don't risk breaking it. and do you know where there is a reliable source of parts for black powder revolvers? like spare cylinders?
There's little point in discussing the fit of the wedge until after the proper fit of the barrel to the frame and arbor has been established. It's a bit like putting the cart before the horse. Order of operations: First A, then B. B can never be right if A isn't right beforehand.
Awesome, thank you.
If you just flip the wedge upside down, so the spring is facing downwards instead of upwards in the gun, then it is a lot tighter.
Can you imagine being that man that thinks they are gonna die only to get clocked by the entire gun barrel...
Loving your vids. New subscriber. Keep up the good work. Thanks
Mine are the same way but I never loose mine. After every shot I noticed its fine. I push it up a little but I can change cylinders faster than I can reload a peacemaker or my 1858. On my twin 1851 colt sheriff I bought a new wedge but ended up modifying it a little also its missing the screw you described. I didn't notice a difference so I left it the way it is for now.
I had a wedge so tight, the fellows at Steinberger's, in Tombstone, couldn't even get it to come loose!
Go Blackie! we need more of these videos. I ensure that the wedge contact points are f l u s h in contact with the base pin/barrel. , and that the wedge is adequately protruding from the barrel. If the wedge needs reshaping, I have learned that 'forging' it is better than grinding it. Shaping it with a hammer so that the steel compresses and shapes properly to be flush with the 3 contact points. recently I had a welder run a bead along the base pin contact edge of two Dragoon wedges. I shaped them initially with a file and then hammered them for their final contact point fitting. GET SOME! It works quite w e l l ! I recently ordered/received 5 Authentic Colt Dragoon, and 5 Walker wedges. Ubertis don t fit.
With my Navy 1861 (Pietta), I pushed the wedge just enough into barrel. Not too strong beacause wedge can be damaged. However, my wedge can't be never removed with the hand.
I think that we don't use too heavy powder charges. Specially to fire at 25 M. Heavy charges cause mechanical wear, intempestive dropping levers.
That's never happen when I fired with my gun ...Long time ago :(
I prefer the uberti remington style .44 caliber repros myself especially for the solid frame and the easy cylinder removal and cylinder installation and the less screws that make it easier to replace the trigger stop spring and I love to use the Howell .45 colt centerfire cowboy load cartridge conversion cylinders with them
If your think of using a Revolver with a wedge for a back up in a SHTF event get an extra wedge or 2.
Thank You!
Never use sandpaper to adjust or to refine working machanical parts. Use only proper files. Sandpaper leaves invisible silica grains nestled into steel parts that will act as abrasive themselves
Yeah? Wow. I was wondering about using fine emery paper.
Great video!! Answered a lot of questions!!
Good advice. I have no Colt replicas, only Remington's, so haven't had that problem yet.
Yep. They don't have this problem. But, why is the Colt format so popular?
Thx for the video jack nicholson
Great video. Question answered and then some. Much appreciated!
Thank you for sharing this
Very good video, thanks. Thumbs up!~John
Great video. It occurres to me that some of that heavy steel banding material that holds things on pallets for shipping, might be just the thing for making replacement leaf springs for your barrel wedges. I'll let you know if it works out. Keep up the good work.
I had the same thought, now if I can find some of that stuff like when we were kids and made whistles out of it.
@@kellyreim6627 The bands are softsteel, wount work as a spring.
Very unique!😀
Thanks for sharing a helpful video sir. You pointed out some interesting tips about that wedge that I haven’t heard mentioned when guys are just discussing assembly/disassembly.
So doing a cartridge conversion is not a good idea for this model, that would mean every time you fired the weapon you would have to take that wedge out to get the spent shells out of the cylinder
I have cheap replica and it’s a bear to remove. 1851 brass navy 44. Yeah I know but I liked the look of it
I have the same
same here, 1851 two of them, brass and steel pietta. 44cal.. the wegde was PAIN in the ass the get out, i had to use brass punchs... which of ccourse nicked the steel on my gun by the wedges.. so its unsightly.. i dont know why they hammered them in so frigging hard... I also dont get how a brass punch damaged hardened steel.. i think the steel on these guns are really really cheesy and not hardened. Once i got the wedge out though.. i can remove it by hand and insert it by hand now
Great info! I hope more folks visit your site and learn from it.
By the way...you could play the part of Billy Bob Thorntons brother in the movies! ::grinning::
Blackie, I had a dumb backwards moment and drove my wedge in backwards. What do I need to expect? Mind you the cylinder rotates, the barrel gap is perfect, the weapon operates as it should.
Blackie the wedge info is great to know but what about a lost wedge screw that cannot be replaced like a armi san marco screw to a black powder revolver.
Hey Blackie, my late friend, a retired Air Force General, gifted me an 1860 Army Colt replica by Pietta. My problem is, the wedge is stuck fast and I can’t remove it. I’ve tried wooden and metal punches to try and drive it out, soaked it with Ballistol to try and loosen it, nothing has worked. I’ve tried to be careful so as to avoid marring the finish, but the Dern wedge just won’t move! Any suggestions on something I can try, to shift that wedge. Thank you for your time. Regards, Alan Hope
Thank you for your contribution to the art of black powder revolver shooting.
I see the kidderidders beat and beat the poor thingeringers in and then beat the hell outathem to get them back out.mine is perfectly hard to get it in to a firm snap! I can use my thumb nail with just a bit of umph to get the spring down. I can pull it straight out to stop at the screw.
I broke the wegde "spring" on my Pietta 1851 navy today. Thoughts on firing it without the spring? Seems to me it mostly does nothing anyway 😂 thanks for the vids man!
the spring is to keep the wedge from falling out or walking out during firing..it kinda clips to the frame on the far side..it will fire with out spring..just keep a eye on the wedge and be sure its fully seated or ya pull the trigger and the barrel launches
Great video. Learned a lot and thank you for the video.
glad you liked it..safe journeys
Good info, thanks!
I have a proper fitting wedge spring. I tried to take the wedge screw out, but my inappropriate screwdriver was starting to tear the screw top. What screwdriver can I use to take that screw out? BTW. This is the best wedge video in the world. If there is a better one, please let me know.
That was good information
I hope you see this and I know this is an old Video but Just got into BP shooting and ordered a 1851 Naval Colt 44 by Pietta also ordered a complete set of action replacement parts including the wedge and new set of screws just to be on the ready down the road. I have a question Blackie but first I must say I am very grateful for your videos they are the most down to earth instruction for BP revolvers out there. My question is why couldn't one change out the Arbor to a high quality steel that the slot for the wedge wouldn't loose its size and could withstand the pressures ?
Or better yet what if I heat the arbor real hot then dip in cold water to harden the steel
If you have an arbor that is properly fitted to the barrel the strain on the wedge is greatly reduced. Piettas are better than Uberti on proper arbor frame fit but does need to be checked and fitted if necessary.
very true..in my yrs i have seen loose wedges on many guns
So is it normal if I take my hammer and can easily tap out the wedge without pressing down on the pin in the wedge? I can’t push it out with fingers but requires a tap or two with my hammer
Since the wedge is made of SOFT steel it deforms more than the few thousandths the barrel slot does after a few shots. More like shapes itself like a banana after many shots and left more than .025" after about the first 30 shots and got tired of the wedge falling out and blowing the barrel off. Of course the steel of the wedge that came with the gun is not quality or hardened. The wedges they supply are 'mildly hardened' but not fully and cannot stand up to repeated hammering of the recoil. I solved my wedge problem by milling a new wedge to spec (with a bit more 'wedge' length to pick up possible future slack) but used A2 steel then hardened it. I didn't add a retainer to the wedge. The wedge never deformed again and I shot the gun for about 15 years before 2000 with no further deformation and can usually pop the wedge out with my thumb after firing. No hammering as with the stock wedge! So I hope that helps some who have wedge problems I saw others have and just as you had. The barrel wedge slot does deform also but only a little over time ... the slot is supported on both sides of the wedge so deformation is minimal compared to the small contact area (higher impact) on the cylinder spindle. The wedge taper and width is extended almost .10 towards the wedge wider side so it has plenty of 'wedge' to a compensate a deformed slot. I'm a little late seeing this post of yours but was happy to see you had the same issues to alert users to.
If you can find any evidence, from the period, of Civil War fighters carrying extra Colt cylinders for the purpose of reloading the gun, I'd like to see it. There's been a LOT of discussion of this on the forums for many years, and I've yet to see the evidence.
I got a pietta new and wedge didn't go in far enough to catch the lip. Had to shave off the side of the wedge
Blackie, love your videos. FYI, it's caV-alry (not cal-vary).
My bad lol
Wedges used to be more common back in the day.... but then a thread is just a wedge wound around a stick, isn't it?... :-)
it starts out nice and tight, but the back and forth motion eventually stretches out the slot and, while it might still do the job more or less, it's not as good as it once was
I cant get mine out at all... Ive been working on it for a few hours... Im lost on what to do to get it out... And ive used serious force
Hey Blackie! I just received and 1861 Pietta and noticed that when the wedge is seated to the point that the spring lip just clicks up on the barrel slot, the barrel wiggles. If I tap it in it snugs up nicely but the spring lip is extended out the right hand side of the barrel further. Is this normal?
In my pietta 1851 navy the wedge is difficult to remove at times. Do I need the remove the screw entirely to pull the wedge from the frame? I find I need to push down on the spring while tapping the end of the wedge with the brass butt of a knife to work it free. Isn't that too tight?
What do I do about a loading lever that won't stay up? Every shot, it falls down. Keeping it up with a bread tie for now.
I never knew any of this. I just bought a used replica colt 44 1860 army pistol. Let me check my wedge. The gun was well oiled when I got it, so I think it was well taken care of. Ok, the wedge moves like it wants to come out, but then stops, so I think it will not come out with out removing the screw. The spring tab side of the wedge seems to be a little 'hammered' on, it is not pristine, and looks like someone tapped on it a bit to remove it. It is not falling out on its own, I don't think ever. I sure don't what to loose my barrel when I fire.
I got a Asm 1851 Colt Navy and the box that I got it in had holes in the styrofoam and so Parts would fall out and I ended up getting all of them except for the wedge pen which I believe I inadvertently threw away because I never throw anything away. So when I decide to throw the one thing away it's something I need. So I ordered one from pieti because I've waited months and months and I cannot find an ASM brand and it seems they're okay. But I go to put it in and the wedge is too big.
I recently purchased an 1860 Armi San Marco with a wedge that I have to knock in only in far enough to poke out the left side receiver not much more than a 32nd, give or take, or the action(cylinder) seizes up. Any idea what that is symptomatic of?
I adjust cylinder gap on my guns, my wedges are tight. So tight they if tapped in too far, cylinder wont turn.
I haven’t fired this 1978 Pietta revolver in a decade. Upon examination now 2021, the cylinder can be pushed rearward about 1mm, even at full cock. Wedge *seems OK, if compressed minimally. Main axle could be encouraged to screw-in rotate 180°?
Do I replace wedge AND main axle?
Perhaps bolt is worn? Looks fine
You explained that well, and it helped me out a lot, thank you