Just bought my first black powder revolver! I've already learned plenty of great information on the subject by listening to this channel as I work. I really appreciate that you take the time to make these videos!
Slixshot just took you off their Christmas Card list : ) I put my original Uberti cones back on that were completely useless and tried this mod. now they're working fantastic I won't ever have to buy another set.
Hello Jackie, I'm in France, I'm buying my first black powder revolver, I choose a Pietta 1851 Navy Confederate (a sort of copy of the Griswold & Gunninson) on .36. It has a brass frame (like the original) and I plan to shoot under 20g loads, just for sport, walks in the forest and home defense. I choose it to pay hommage to all my frends I had in the South (Im from LA California) I spent many years in GA, my best friend is from Alabama and I can tell y'all I had my best time in the South... Thanks for helping us newbies... you're a born teacher. Cheers !
Sir! Thank You for this information! I really like your presentation style. Good information, good presentation style & clearly understandable. The only reason someone could not understand the concept is they are not paying attention or there is a mental problem with that individual. Neither one of these reasons can be laid at your feet! Thanks Again. Regards, Matt
HI BLACKIE I JUST BOUGHT MY FIRST REVOLVER, LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, JUST SUBSCRIBED, THANKS FOR ALL YOUR KNOLEDGE, YOU REALLY EXPLAIN THINGS SO THAT THERE SIMPLE TO UNDERSTAND, THANKS AGAIN
I wanted to let you that I've learned so much from watching your percussion black powder revolver videos. Thank you and keep up the good work. Me and my wife love it.
As a subscriber, I can't thank you enough for showing your expertise with Colt type C&B revolvers. "Ach du lieber, mein freund"!!! Nobody likes a "cap sucker" of course! But never forget what Mr. Whipple once said - "Please don't squeeze da Shaman"!!
Thank you Blackie for these videos! My Dance Brothers revolver constantly sucks caps, and I plan on doing this modification immediately. Also, thank you for the paper cartridge video! I started making my own cartridges last night using your method, and they work great!
I thank you for this video. However, I screwed up when I did it and notched the outside of the nipple instead of the inside. But it worked great anyway and I've had no more cap jams since making the modification. Saved me $45 for new nipples. I appreciate that.
"Re" watched this! Thanks AGAIN, again. just got my 1st Colts? always shot Rimingtons, but now this has MORE weight! as a New Colt Owner I found "I Noted" a problem with assembling and "DISS" assembly of my New Uberti's with a perfect fit of the cylinder axle and frame to barrel alignment pins. "I Noted" with oil this fit became un separable of the two half's. sooo? I Vented each with a path for compressive or vacuum for ease of take down. I did so conserativly and with engineering in keeping with the design intentions of each as to Not Weaken the design. I have also given this "Cone" issue thought. I think I will 100% vent my cones while checking timing to home as once removed for cleaning, I want to go back to desired timing of Cones vent as I want my caps vented up away from hammers nesting and into cap channel. I did forget about my hammer and addressing the vent channel. Thanks AGAIN! AGAIN! Keep Your Smoke Poles SMOKING
Wow, I went searching for this information and you referred to the information that Turner Kirkland put in the DGW catalog. I had forgotten all about it. Thanks for the reminder and the clear instructions. Very helpful.
Thanks for the advice Blackie, especially that this is a very simple modification that can be done by everyone. I’ll give it a try today in the evening. I love my Colt Army (I have a Remington as well nevertheless I simply like the Colt much more) but I’m getting frustrated when having 1-2 cap jams per cylinder while shooting, although the hammer is already smoothened up. I don't like the idea of installing an additional pin in the frame (although I’ve been considering it) to prevent jams reliably, since it looks somehow awkward. Unfortunately the Slix Shot (or equal) nipples are not available in Europe and the US Companies do not ship them outside of the united States and Canada (don’t ask me why).
Already got Slix shot which work great but are expensive. Gonna try this with original cones and see how it works. Think you may have saved me alot of money on my future cap and balls. Thanks!
Hey Blackie , I just have subs ribbed and I am new to cap an ball revolvers. I have not even loaded my first rounds yet. I figure I will just sit back and learn all i can first. I do have someone that can teach me but he lives a good ways a way and will be around at our bushcraft school in the spring hopefully. So mean wile I'm going to take in some info. Great channel 👍👍
very clever fix for cap jams. i will try this on my cap sucking jamamatic 1862 Police Colt revolver. Most of my guns have cap rakes which really help but this is worth a try on that gun.
I took a dremel tool and cut a notch about big enough to run a truck through. No cap fragments. Well it wasn't THAT big but it was pretty big. Vent is toward the center and that means any fragments are contained in the nipple seat. Thanks for the modification. My 1849 Pocket Police .32 was eating caps every cylinder. Not now.
Good video. With the Colt, if you turn the revolver 90 degrees to the right after firing and before cocking, the cap will mostly fall off. If not. you can easily pick it off. As a kid, yes I am that old, I remember the "Lone Ranger" TV show when it first came out. In the beginning, The Ranger is galloping along firing his 1873 Colt. I noticed he was throwing the gun up as he fired. At one point the revolver is pointed directly backward. After firing the Colt C&B I could see how this might work. In a cavalry charge you cant have a stuck cap. My guess is that whoever choregraphed the opening had perhaps seen a real Civil War charge. I dont recommend using this technique at the range! I did try it once when I was alone in a safe place. I loaded one chamber and fired it. The cap just flew right off with this technique. Check out "The Lone Ranger" to see for yourself.
Merry Christmas Blackie. In the process of trying a lot of the things you've suggested on a pair of 51 Navy's... So far they're performing well. I did put slix shots on one of them. Running about $36 for a set at present... But the other is still on the stock pietta cones. I'll be trying this on it.
Merry Christmas and thanks for sharing this great idea. I went ahead and bought slixshot nipples a while back because no one carries #10 caps in my area & I didn't want to pay a haz-mat shipment fee either. The # 11's (available everywhere here) fit and seat well without giving them a pinch. They work great and I almost never ever have jams. They bust and roll right out like they're supposed to. So now I have a reliable revolver + availability of caps that fit. They are worth the money to me. Just saying.
Yes good, well explained. I'll just reiterate to be conservative. People DO play with nipples and flash holes and the result is heavy blowback and damage to the gun and themselves. Even gun parts not under high pressure are easily ruined by aggressive hands and tools, especially the wrong tools. Unless a person is sure, get someone to help who knows more.
I'll give this a try (getting stick of all my stuck caps). *LIKED* the video. --- *1st Minnesota SharpShooters* channel with Civil War reenactor live fire, hard marching, and rustic adventure ... enlist today.
Hello Blackie, I am cleaning up a 60 Army .44 cal. for friend of mine, it was acquired by his father in 1933 in Atlanta Ga. They, him and his father, are not gun people and never cleaned or bothered with it, hence it never was cleaned from what looks like the Civil War! The gun was rusted fast in all ways but is slowly coming around, being aware as to not ruin the original finish, as best I can. I am replacing all the broken springs and want to thank you for all your videos, a great help! The biggest problem is the nipples, they are rusted so badly to the cylinder, I have heated them, soaked in WD40 for at least 4 days but...? Do you have any ideas as to what more I can try ? Thanks again for what you do! Rich
Over the decades I learned that there are 4 things that you can apply to free parts that have rusted together. They are: Penetrating oil, Shock, Temperature, and Patience. I;'ve found that repeated applications of all 4 will get even the most difficult things apart.
I am the subscriber/poster that you referenced in your opening. I want to thank you for following thru with this video which thoroughly explains WHY and HOW the nipples are modified to lessen the chances of stuck caps. I understand now and if I experience this problem with my new .36 cal. Uberti 1851 Navy "London" model, I'll know of a possible remedy. ;=)
I get caps sticking inside the hammers of my rifles and single shot pistols. They have a cup shaped hammer and the expanded caps are sometimes a pain in the butt to get out. Is there a mod that'll stop or reduce that? Or, is it something I can just ignore and keep shooting with a cap stuck in there? Seems like an obvious thing to try, just never even considered it 'till right now.
These are good tips and a good explanation of how the system was intended to work. I do have a "chicken or the egg," which happened first. I have noticed that when the cap randomly fragments, as the cylinder rotates, more often than not, the following "safety pin" acts as a raker and directs the largest fragment toward the ejection channel. Do you think the "safety pins" were safety pins first or rakers first, to work in harmony with the gas relief/cap splitting system built into the hammer face?
Blackie, I have a Remington new army made by Pietta... What nipple would you recommend for this? I am sure they are factory and I hear a lot of people putting stainless steal nipples on, what would be the reason for doing this upgrade? Thanks & keep up the good work...
good eyes but it has ball no powder i was doing a demo on how to pull the ball if you air ball..so i loaded it up with just ball..but thanks for keeping me safe safe journeys
Scoring a nipple makes it a major PITA to keep track of them all when removing them every time you clean your gun, since they won't line up properly if not replaced at the exact same chamber. It's much easier to simply replace with a quality nipple such as a Treso Ampco nipple that uses #11 caps.
actually i have never had this problem... all of mine are made the same ...sort of clones of each other..with the thread pitch starting in same place on nipple..so they all drop into what ever chamber i choose..but having said that ..i dont have to remove them often and when i do its usually only one at the time
Blackie, what percussion revolver would you recommend for carrying in the woods for taking small to medium size game? I am trying to decide between a 1851 navy, a 1858 new army, and a 1860 army. Thanks in advance for any advise!
for small /med game the .36 is my choice..it does very well and doesn't not tear up a lot of meat doing it..i deeply love the 51.it point the bast of all colts in my exp...
Great useful talk Blackie 👍 do you have any experience with the homemade caps? Since you said the period ones were like foul I was wondering if homemade ones would work better. Just a off the cuff thought. Loved the mist in the background and the dogs braying. I expected 3 toes to walk by 👍🙏🙏🐺
Thanks Blackie. I just bought a new 1847 uberti and you're right. Dern thing sucks at least one or two caps per cylinder. I'm gonna try that and see how it does. I have purchased Slix Shot nipples for a 51 and a 60 and that made a huge difference. I've even thought about drilling holes like the Slix Shot nipples have. Any suggestions or will this simple technique work the same?
i cover most of this in my videos..but a quick recap..make sure hammer faces is free of burrs and any sharp edges that might grab a cap..next..make the ""nick" like i just showed in the video and try that first..it should help a lot..if it dosen't not then go the expense and buy the replacement nipples..usually it will make work..safe journeys
Blackie, it worked perfectly. You're a genius. Thanks for the tip. It worked flawlessly. Proof here in this video where I used that gun for Duke Fraziers 2018 shooting competition. ruclips.net/video/Fsu6EiCms74/видео.html
Hey Blackie, up front thanks a ton for the tips. I just bought my first cap n ball Uberti 1860 and really enjoying your experience. I'm old and blind too but I swear I heard you say notch at 6 o'clock or the bottom of the nipple.. but did I see you notch 12 o'clock or top of the nipple. Do I need my meds increased? LOL Thanks....
They're called Hotshot nipples they come like that with the little hole pre-drill don't know if they make them for cap and ball revolvers but I have one on my Great Plains rifle
Does the venting increase the chance for a chain fire due to creating a channel for the gas to escape as opposed to the factory nipple which has no vent directing gas to the cap area?
no not that i have found in my use.. it seems to keep the cap in the right place and fall off at the proper time in rotation..thus far no chain fires have happened after i did this mod
Can you use standard .45 Colt "cowboy" style bullets in a .44 cap&ball revolver? They're .454 diameter soft lead, but it sounds like you can only use .454 balls in these guns.
all he chain fires i have had or seen come from the nipple end. doing that leaves a path for flame transfer to the next cylinder. since the cap is not sealing the next nipple.
I have a different issue with stock nipples. My Uberti 1851 Navy nipples fail to ignite caps about 30% of the time. I increased the spring tension about 20% by flattening it out a bit but it didn't help. I bought SlixShot nipples for it and they ignite caps 99% of the time.Any idea why the stock nipples don't want to set off the caps?
the nipple can be too fat and thus the impact causes it to spread rather than the rim busting the cap..i have heard or it and seen friends with the prob changing to new nipples always solved the problem
Question for you…maybe this has been asked. When doing this, do you then have to number the cones so they are reinstalled to the corresponding chamber every time? Or are the threads typically indexed the same on every chamber? I ask because you mention how the weak link should be on the bottom.
The threads are not indexed, which means when you remove the nipples you'll need to figure out a way to keep each nipple paired with its chamber. I usually start with the nipple closest to the border on the cylinder battle scene and call it #1 and go clockwise. I then remove the nipples and keep them separated in the same circular fashion.
The nipple design is the weak part of the percussion revolver. Most of the flash went outside down along the side of the nipple while the rest went into the chamber.
MERRY CHRISTMAS BLACKY! MRS. BLACKY, AND ANY LITTLE BLACKIES RUNNING AROUND IN THE WORLD! ;-) I am so looking forward to this year's videos I can hardly wait. A bit like kids before Christmas. Hahaha haha Have a great 2018 my friend.
I have a Walker that does opposite. When I fire heavy loads say 40 grains it knocks the other caps loose when fired. They get jammed in between the rear face and rear cylinder and the cylinder wont rotate.I have to dig out the caps and reseat them.Any suggestions how to fix this would be greatly appreciated. I've done the other fixes you've shown on my Navies and Armies and they are more reliable pistols now! Thanks.
try # 10 caps..they are bit smaller and may fix the problem..also take the nipples out wrap the screw threads with masking tape..chuck into a drill and slowly turn with a bit of emory paper..give the sides of the nipples a little rough texture..the cap should grip better..that should help..safe journeys
Great video as always! Interestingly, the Uberti 1861 Navy I bought late last year has not had a cap jam yet (about 250 rounds), perhaps these clone makers have caught on to this issue?
These pistols are made on 1960 machines. Parts are cranked out and thrown in a bin. Once assembled they check to make sure the parts move the way they are meant to with only slight fit and finishing then out the door they go. Uberti may have up'ed their game being owned by Beretta and that will lead to Pietta upping their product as well. Competition is a good thing. I've noticed the finish on the newer ones (on both brands) are much nicer than the ones of 30 years ago.
It seems to me that this procedure would preclude marking each nipple and chamber in order to put the same nipple back in the same chamber it came from. My reason is this. When you tap (thread) something the tool never starts the cut in the exact same place twice. Therefore if you place the nipple in a different cylinder from whence it came the channel you filed will no longer line up as instructed.
Can't believe how much I've learned since I got into cap and ball. Machine work leather work alchemy smelting it's a good hobby
Couldn't agree more!
Just bought my first black powder revolver! I've already learned plenty of great information on the subject by listening to this channel as I work. I really appreciate that you take the time to make these videos!
Slixshot just took you off their Christmas Card list : )
I put my original Uberti cones back on that were completely useless and tried this mod. now they're working fantastic I won't ever have to buy another set.
glad you found the video to be of use
Blacky, while tn the hosp. Ive learned so much from you. God bless you! David
I have seen several other solutions to cap sucking on RUclips. Comparing them all, I feel that this one is by far the best. Good job, Blackie.
Hello Jackie, I'm in France, I'm buying my first black powder revolver, I choose a Pietta 1851 Navy Confederate (a sort of copy of the Griswold & Gunninson) on .36. It has a brass frame (like the original) and I plan to shoot under 20g loads, just for sport, walks in the forest and home defense. I choose it to pay hommage to all my frends I had in the South (Im from LA California) I spent many years in GA, my best friend is from Alabama and I can tell y'all I had my best time in the South... Thanks for helping us newbies... you're a born teacher. Cheers !
Picabea Basque country name...??
@@user-sb3ux7ku6j France...
Jorge Picabea: From LA also (Lower Alabama!).............HA.
You have more rights than the people here in No York
Binging on knowledge till i save up for hopefully a Ruger , your the man , definitely subbed
common sense,logical &
no nonsense video's are appreciated. 👍
Sir! Thank You for this information! I really like your presentation style. Good information, good presentation style & clearly understandable. The only reason someone could not understand the concept is they are not paying attention or there is a mental problem with that individual. Neither one of these reasons can be laid at your feet! Thanks Again. Regards, Matt
HI BLACKIE I JUST BOUGHT MY FIRST REVOLVER, LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, JUST SUBSCRIBED, THANKS FOR ALL YOUR KNOLEDGE, YOU REALLY EXPLAIN THINGS SO THAT THERE SIMPLE TO UNDERSTAND, THANKS AGAIN
I wanted to let you that I've learned so much from watching your percussion black powder revolver videos. Thank you and keep up the good work. Me and my wife love it.
As a subscriber, I can't thank you enough for showing your expertise with Colt type C&B revolvers. "Ach du lieber, mein freund"!!! Nobody likes a "cap sucker" of course! But never forget what Mr. Whipple once said - "Please don't squeeze da Shaman"!!
Thank you Blackie for these videos! My Dance Brothers revolver constantly sucks caps, and I plan on doing this modification immediately. Also, thank you for the paper cartridge video! I started making my own cartridges last night using your method, and they work great!
glad you found it to be of use...safe journeys
Thanks Blackie, your the man when it comes to BP revolver mods !
Usually always learn something about BP on your channel. This will be my first subscription. Thumb up too.
I thank you for this video. However, I screwed up when I did it and notched the outside of the nipple instead of the inside. But it worked great anyway and I've had no more cap jams since making the modification. Saved me $45 for new nipples. I appreciate that.
Love the Army-issue field sweater. Had one in my TA50!
thanks it serves me well..safe journeys to ya
The Navy used them years ago too.
Excellent advice and demo, will try it on my Pietta 1860 Army. Thank You!
"Re" watched this! Thanks AGAIN, again. just got my 1st Colts? always shot Rimingtons, but now this has MORE weight! as a New Colt Owner I found "I Noted" a problem with assembling and "DISS" assembly of my New Uberti's with a perfect fit of the cylinder axle and frame to barrel alignment pins. "I Noted" with oil this fit became un separable of the two half's. sooo? I Vented each with a path for compressive or vacuum for ease of take down. I did so conserativly and with engineering in keeping with the design intentions of each as to Not Weaken the design.
I have also given this "Cone" issue thought. I think I will 100% vent my cones while checking timing to home as once removed for cleaning, I want to go back to desired timing of Cones vent as I want my caps vented up away from hammers nesting and into cap channel.
I did forget about my hammer and addressing the vent channel.
Thanks AGAIN! AGAIN!
Keep Your Smoke Poles SMOKING
Its march 8th 2018. Just discovered your excellent videos, well done. Rodge David uk
Wow, I went searching for this information and you referred to the information that Turner Kirkland put in the DGW catalog. I had forgotten all about it. Thanks for the reminder and the clear instructions. Very helpful.
You are so welcome!
You are a mentor for black powder. Thank you!
thank you very much..safe journeys
Thanks for the advice Blackie, especially that this is a very simple modification that can be done by everyone. I’ll give it a try today in the evening. I love my Colt Army (I have a Remington as well nevertheless I simply like the Colt much more) but I’m getting frustrated when having 1-2 cap jams per cylinder while shooting, although the hammer is already smoothened up. I don't like the idea of installing an additional pin in the frame (although I’ve been considering it) to prevent jams reliably, since it looks somehow awkward. Unfortunately the Slix Shot (or equal) nipples are not available in Europe and the US Companies do not ship them outside of the united States and Canada (don’t ask me why).
Did it work for you?
This looks promising, I think I'll give it a try when I perform maintenance on my 1851 navy model.
Excellent tip!! Already bought the slix shot though. Wish I saw this last year. I think “Duelist” recommended the slix.
they are a good product..i just try all the other things first before i invest..safe journeys
Already got Slix shot which work great but are expensive. Gonna try this with original cones and see how it works. Think you may have saved me alot of money on my future cap and balls. Thanks!
Yes, very expen$ive
Very Very good Sir👍 Good camera work, Good explanation, Just a very useful video here!
It’s Easter 2020 today so Happy Easter, He IS RISEN! Amen
Glad to hear of more black powder videos coming. Hopefully I can get my revolver to you soon for antiquing. Work has had me extremely busy
i hear ya
Hey Blackie , I just have subs ribbed and I am new to cap an ball revolvers. I have not even loaded my first rounds yet. I figure I will just sit back and learn all i can first. I do have someone that can teach me but he lives a good ways a way and will be around at our bushcraft school in the spring hopefully. So mean wile I'm going to take in some info. Great channel 👍👍
Thank you Blackie, You always have very good how to Vids. Safe Jurnies to you and your Family.
Love cap-n-ball shooting this is an excellent tip my 1851 navy has this problem I’ll sure be applying this trick to mine for sure
I hope you and your family had a great and Merry Christmas. Thanks for all your time and sharing.
I've got some needle files and im going to knick all of my cones. Thanks blackie
very clever fix for cap jams. i will try this on my cap sucking jamamatic 1862 Police Colt revolver. Most of my guns have cap rakes which really help but this is worth a try on that gun.
Please explain “cap rake”
I took a dremel tool and cut a notch about big enough to run a truck through. No cap fragments. Well it wasn't THAT big but it was pretty big. Vent is toward the center and that means any fragments are contained in the nipple seat. Thanks for the modification. My 1849 Pocket Police .32 was eating caps every cylinder. Not now.
Just getting into Black Powder Revolver shooting and love your videos, learning lots , Thanks and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Great tip! Im always happy when i see a new video from you because i know i will learn something. Great job Blackie!
glad you find them of use..safe journeys
Good video.
With the Colt, if you turn the revolver 90 degrees to the right after firing and before cocking, the cap will mostly fall off. If not. you can easily pick it off.
As a kid, yes I am that old, I remember the "Lone Ranger" TV show when it first came out. In the beginning, The Ranger is galloping along firing his 1873 Colt. I noticed he was throwing the gun up as he fired. At one point the revolver is pointed directly backward. After firing the Colt C&B I could see how this might work. In a cavalry charge you cant have a stuck cap. My guess is that whoever choregraphed the opening had perhaps seen a real Civil War charge. I dont recommend using this technique at the range! I did try it once when I was alone in a safe place. I loaded one chamber and fired it. The cap just flew right off with this technique. Check out "The Lone Ranger" to see for yourself.
Merry Christmas Blackie. In the process of trying a lot of the things you've suggested on a pair of 51 Navy's... So far they're performing well. I did put slix shots on one of them. Running about $36 for a set at present... But the other is still on the stock pietta cones. I'll be trying this on it.
Merry Christmas and thanks for sharing this great idea. I went ahead and bought slixshot nipples a while back because no one carries #10 caps in my area & I didn't want to pay a haz-mat shipment fee either. The # 11's (available everywhere here) fit and seat well without giving them a pinch. They work great and I almost never ever have jams. They bust and roll right out like they're supposed to. So now I have a reliable revolver + availability of caps that fit. They are worth the money to me. Just saying.
Thanks Blackie. Good sage advise. Happy New Year.
happy new year to you as well..safe journeys
Another great video. You are a wealth of info. Thank you. Cheers
That accent is music to my ears.
Useful video too.
Great tip Blackie, Enjoyed it very much. Hope you and your Family had a Great Christmas. Have a Happy New Year.
thank you and safe journeys to you as well
Thanks Blackie, keep em coming. Hope you had a great Christmas.
Yes good, well explained. I'll just reiterate to be conservative. People DO play with nipples and flash holes and the result is heavy blowback and damage to the gun and themselves. Even gun parts not under high pressure are easily ruined by aggressive hands and tools, especially the wrong tools. Unless a person is sure, get someone to help who knows more.
Very clever idea will definitely try this thanks blackie
Thank you for the advice very good instructional video
I'll give this a try (getting stick of all my stuck caps). *LIKED* the video. --- *1st Minnesota SharpShooters* channel with Civil War reenactor live fire, hard marching, and rustic adventure ... enlist today.
A good advice , thanks a lot !!
Greetings from France
greeting from alabama....safe journeys to you
Thanks for this info & all that you do. Hope you had a very Merry Christmas & have a safe journey in the New Year.
Hello Blackie, I am cleaning up a 60 Army .44 cal. for friend of mine, it was acquired by his father in 1933 in Atlanta Ga. They, him and his father, are not gun people and never cleaned or bothered with it, hence it never was cleaned from what looks like the Civil War!
The gun was rusted fast in all ways but is slowly coming around, being aware as to not ruin the original finish, as best I can. I am replacing all the broken springs and want to thank you for all your videos, a great help!
The biggest problem is the nipples, they are rusted so badly to the cylinder, I have heated them, soaked in WD40 for at least 4 days but...? Do you have any ideas as to what more I can try ?
Thanks again for what you do!
Rich
Over the decades I learned that there are 4 things that you can apply to free parts that have rusted together. They are: Penetrating oil, Shock, Temperature, and Patience. I;'ve found that repeated applications of all 4 will get even the most difficult things apart.
I am the subscriber/poster that you referenced in your opening. I want to thank you for following thru with this video which thoroughly explains WHY and HOW the nipples are modified to lessen the chances of stuck caps. I understand now and if I experience this problem with my new .36 cal. Uberti 1851 Navy "London" model, I'll know of a possible remedy. ;=)
thanks for the comment and keeping me honest...safe journeys
Great video, Blackie. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
This video has just appeared in my feed ! Thank you.
glad you found it of use
Thanks for giving your knowledge to us.
I like the finish on that pistol. Rust brown?
Merry Christmas, and I wish You A Very Happy New Year ! Hey that video was great, I have been wondering how to fix that problem. Thank You !
Thank you sir ..keep america great!
I get caps sticking inside the hammers of my rifles and single shot pistols. They have a cup shaped hammer and the expanded caps are sometimes a pain in the butt to get out. Is there a mod that'll stop or reduce that? Or, is it something I can just ignore and keep shooting with a cap stuck in there? Seems like an obvious thing to try, just never even considered it 'till right now.
Blackie, love the channel! Say, which black powder revolver do you prefer, the Colt open top style or the 58 Remington?
I love my 5.5 remington sheriff..but my first love is a colt 1860 or a 1851 navy
These are good tips and a good explanation of how the system was intended to work. I do have a "chicken or the egg," which happened first. I have noticed that when the cap randomly fragments, as the cylinder rotates, more often than not, the following "safety pin" acts as a raker and directs the largest fragment toward the ejection channel. Do you think the "safety pins" were safety pins first or rakers first, to work in harmony with the gas relief/cap splitting system built into the hammer face?
Blackie, I have a Remington new army made by Pietta... What nipple would you recommend for this? I am sure they are factory and I hear a lot of people putting stainless steal nipples on, what would be the reason for doing this upgrade? Thanks & keep up the good work...
for me usually the factory nipple will e fine..might need a little tweek or two..but if thats not going to work i go with stainless
That's a darn good tip. Thanks Blackie. btw, that was loaded!
good eyes but it has ball no powder i was doing a demo on how to pull the ball if you air ball..so i loaded it up with just ball..but thanks for keeping me safe safe journeys
Yep, I've air balled a few times. lol I usually just pull the nipple and pack it with powder.
Scoring a nipple makes it a major PITA to keep track of them all when removing them every time you clean your gun, since they won't line up properly if not replaced at the exact same chamber. It's much easier to simply replace with a quality nipple such as a Treso Ampco nipple that uses #11 caps.
actually i have never had this problem... all of mine are made the same ...sort of clones of each other..with the thread pitch starting in same place on nipple..so they all drop into what ever chamber i choose..but having said that ..i dont have to remove them often and when i do its usually only one at the time
Merry Christmas Blacky, love the vids
Blackie, what percussion revolver would you recommend for carrying in the woods for taking small to medium size game? I am trying to decide between a 1851 navy, a 1858 new army, and a 1860 army.
Thanks in advance for any advise!
for small /med game the .36 is my choice..it does very well and doesn't not tear up a lot of meat doing it..i deeply love the 51.it point the bast of all colts in my exp...
Ok! 1851 navy in .36 it is! Thank you very much for replying, and I am looking forward to watching more videos from you!
Happy new year Blackie!🎉🎉🎉🎊🎊
Great useful talk Blackie 👍 do you have any experience with the homemade caps? Since you said the period ones were like foul I was wondering if homemade ones would work better. Just a off the cuff thought.
Loved the mist in the background and the dogs braying. I expected 3 toes to walk by 👍🙏🙏🐺
Would it hurt anything if I did this to my Remington 1858 New Model Army replica?
not at all
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Thanks
Merry Christmas 2019 Blackie, to you and yours!!
i know this is an old video by now but what about marking cones on a set of Slix Shot Nipples? Would it be counter productive?
that's funny you said you have that problem with a 3rd model Dragoon. I have one of those and am now going to try this. Thanks.
Those Dragoons are beasts. Just slightly less powerful than a Walker.
Thanks Blackie. I just bought a new 1847 uberti and you're right. Dern thing sucks at least one or two caps per cylinder. I'm gonna try that and see how it does. I have purchased Slix Shot nipples for a 51 and a 60 and that made a huge difference. I've even thought about drilling holes like the Slix Shot nipples have. Any suggestions or will this simple technique work the same?
i cover most of this in my videos..but a quick recap..make sure hammer faces is free of burrs and any sharp edges that might grab a cap..next..make the ""nick" like i just showed in the video and try that first..it should help a lot..if it dosen't not then go the expense and buy the replacement nipples..usually it will make work..safe journeys
Thanks my friend
Blackie, it worked perfectly. You're a genius. Thanks for the tip. It worked flawlessly. Proof here in this video where I used that gun for Duke Fraziers 2018 shooting competition. ruclips.net/video/Fsu6EiCms74/видео.html
glad it helped ya..safe journeys and good luck with the shooting competiton
Thanks again Blackie
merry Christmas, also you once promised a video on how to add grease grooves to a Remington base pin. friendly reminder.
alright i will get on that as well
blackoracle69 Thank you, much appreciated.
Grease the pin and you shouldn't have any problems with the cylinder pin.
Nice vid and Merry christmas dude
Hey Blackie, up front thanks a ton for the tips. I just bought my first cap n ball Uberti 1860 and really enjoying your experience. I'm old and blind too but I swear I heard you say notch at 6 o'clock or the bottom of the nipple.. but did I see you notch 12 o'clock or top of the nipple. Do I need my meds increased? LOL Thanks....
They're called Hotshot nipples they come like that with the little hole pre-drill don't know if they make them for cap and ball revolvers but I have one on my Great Plains rifle
Does the venting increase the chance for a chain fire due to creating a channel for the gas to escape as opposed to the factory nipple which has no vent directing gas to the cap area?
no not that i have found in my use.. it seems to keep the cap in the right place and fall off at the proper time in rotation..thus far no chain fires have happened after i did this mod
BLACKIE THOMAS thank you. I'm gong to give it a try then. Best to you and yours.
Can you fill the grabber on hammer with jbweld.? To prevent grabbing? I seen that on a RUclips channel
it can help..and if you dont care to use the safety pins on the cyl its a good way to go
Thanks for replying.
Just spend the 35 bucks for a set of slixshot cones. It will make things so much easier and enjoyable. Pax Christi.
Can you use standard .45 Colt "cowboy" style bullets in a .44 cap&ball revolver? They're .454 diameter soft lead, but it sounds like you can only use .454 balls in these guns.
Look up conical or kaido bullets for percussion revolvers. There are options that are used for hunting because of better accuracy.
www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0000690382/point44-caliber-remington-double-cavity-conical-mold-450-200-1r
Cartridge conversion cylinders are available for most percussion cap and ball revolvers
I'm gonna try this with my Remington New Models. Thanks!
glad you found it of use..safe journeys
all he chain fires i have had or seen come from the nipple end. doing that leaves a path for flame transfer to the next cylinder. since the cap is not sealing the next nipple.
The slit in the hammer is to engage the safety pin(s) on the back of the cylinder, so the gun can be carried with all the chambers loaded.
Maybe one reason, k; definitely safer to be carried on an empty cylinder.
Thanks from australia will try that on my colts
hello from alabama safe journeys to you
I have a different issue with stock nipples. My Uberti 1851 Navy nipples fail to ignite caps about 30% of the time. I increased the spring tension about 20% by flattening it out a bit but it didn't help. I bought SlixShot nipples for it and they ignite caps 99% of the time.Any idea why the stock nipples don't want to set off the caps?
the nipple can be too fat and thus the impact causes it to spread rather than the rim busting the cap..i have heard or it and seen friends with the prob changing to new nipples always solved the problem
Thanks. Yeah, switching to SlixShots solved the problem but they are very expensive. My Remington doesn't have this issue at all.
Great information thanks
Question for you…maybe this has been asked. When doing this, do you then have to number the cones so they are reinstalled to the corresponding chamber every time? Or are the threads typically indexed the same on every chamber? I ask because you mention how the weak link should be on the bottom.
The threads are not indexed, which means when you remove the nipples you'll need to figure out a way to keep each nipple paired with its chamber. I usually start with the nipple closest to the border on the cylinder battle scene and call it #1 and go clockwise. I then remove the nipples and keep them separated in the same circular fashion.
Blackie! In one of your videos toward the end you.were holding a great looking large orange cat. Is it a special breed? (Forrest cat maybe) Dom.
actually he is just a big stray that found us and stayed now hes a bit of a couch potato tho
Thank you for this Blackie.
The nipple design is the weak part of the percussion revolver. Most of the flash went outside down along the side of the nipple while the rest went into the chamber.
Thanks for this tip!
MERRY CHRISTMAS BLACKY! MRS. BLACKY, AND ANY LITTLE BLACKIES RUNNING AROUND IN THE WORLD! ;-)
I am so looking forward to this year's videos I can hardly wait. A bit like kids before Christmas. Hahaha haha Have a great 2018 my friend.
I have a Walker that does opposite. When I fire heavy loads say 40 grains it knocks the other caps loose when fired. They get jammed in between the rear face and rear cylinder and the cylinder wont rotate.I have to dig out the caps and reseat them.Any suggestions how to fix this would be greatly appreciated. I've done the other fixes you've shown on my Navies and Armies and they are more reliable pistols now! Thanks.
try # 10 caps..they are bit smaller and may fix the problem..also take the nipples out wrap the screw threads with masking tape..chuck into a drill and slowly turn with a bit of emory paper..give the sides of the nipples a little rough texture..the cap should grip better..that should help..safe journeys
Thank you. Looks good.
Great video as always! Interestingly, the Uberti 1861 Navy I bought late last year has not had a cap jam yet (about 250 rounds), perhaps these clone makers have caught on to this issue?
some guns just seem to run..others need a bit of tuning
These pistols are made on 1960 machines. Parts are cranked out and thrown in a bin. Once assembled they check to make sure the parts move the way they are meant to with only slight fit and finishing then out the door they go. Uberti may have up'ed their game being owned by Beretta and that will lead to Pietta upping their product as well. Competition is a good thing. I've noticed the finish on the newer ones (on both brands) are much nicer than the ones of 30 years ago.
Dremel Tool - check. Cut to cylinder - check. Copper cap fragments and steel in the eye - check.
eye pro..double check..lol
It seems to me that this procedure would preclude marking each nipple and chamber in order to put the same nipple back in the same chamber it came from. My reason is this. When you tap (thread) something the tool never starts the cut in the exact same place twice. Therefore if you place the nipple in a different cylinder from whence it came the channel you filed will no longer line up as instructed.
Merry Christmas!!
Thank you for the info buddy. Go a giver her a try.