thank you so much i have been looking everywhere for the torque spec on all the oil pan bolts and the bolts that connect it to the transmission but no one had them. Great walkthrough!
Thanks Glenn. It sure was, but well worth the effort. It is getting a bit too warm to lay on the ground as the snakes crawl at night. Last thing I want to hear is a rattling behind my back. They also crawl into garages so nothing is safe. Cats and dogs are truly your best friends outside in the shady summer time areas. ☕😎
FYI: 3M makes a black 'body deadening putty' that is thick like playdough and slightly tacky. We've used it for YEARS in sockets to keep bolts from falling out. The paper towel idea is OK, but you can re-use the 3M putty over and over and it won't dry out. BTW: that was a LOT of silicone you put on the gasket surfaces, I use about half that so the excess won't end up in the motor.
Thanks Duke! I was thinking to myself all the time I was under this HHR that this is the first engine I had ever pulled the pan and not did something to the bottom end. Did you notice the 5 four bolt mains in this little 4 cylinder? Beefy bottom end in my opinion.
O my god Steve you did a great job.!.. Changing out oil pan and making a video by yourself. That's ten times harder. I have folders full of cuts where I said screw it and stopped filming.
You got it Pappy. Me and Camera had a few words after the first bout of removing the pan. It decided to behave and stay out of my way most of the time for the install. I told it that Corkboard's Osmo was looking pretty good at times.
Hi Steve - First off, thank you for the 2 videos. They were super helpful. I just had to pull the oil pan on a 2.4L Ecotec. Did you happen to prime the oil pump before starting? The reason I pulled the pan was because I changed the Timing and Balance Chains. One of the guides broke and pieces of it, as well as its bolts, were in the oil pan. In all the instruction videos I've watched, none mention priming the oil pump after removing the pan. I don't have an actual manual though. I'm wondering if the best move is to remove the valve cover again and pure oil over the cams and the timing chains. I have 140k miles on her, maybe its negligible. Your thoughts would be appreciated! Thank you - Dan
You are going to have to put oil in it anyway so pouring it all over the cam and chains that way would be a good way to go. I have not read anything about priming, but I suppose you could disable the ignition so their would be no spark and crank it over a bit. That would bring the oil pressure up. Too bad there is just a light and no gauge.
great job there steve!! got a question for ya -- in reference to the oil dip stick and the oil intake port at the the bottom of the pan -- how much oil you reckon is left in the pan if the oil level falls to the very bottom of the dip stick or below it.. i noticed this on my 2006 hhr but thinking it has what 5 quarts of oil... i didnt think of how low it could really be... but after i saw this video it got me thinking!!!! WHOAA !!! And looking at the oil intake port?? !! It looks like its just as high as the dip stick !>!?!? Im sure theres some difference but man thats kinda scary to think about!! But after looking at the oil pan from the top at the Beginning of the video it looks like the oil is pumped up from the very bottom of the pan! Ive had my hhr going on 14 yrs now and its comming up on 200.000 miles and it never let me down . Except for the starter and the cv shaft on the front passenger side thats now giving a sign its time to replace it ... Good video there steve!!!
Good question. It looks to me like 2.5 quarts maybe less maybe more sits below the bottom level of the dip stick tube. Next time I change it I will try to remember to check the dipstick as I go and that will let me know for sure. Yes, the sump is at the bottom of the pan...no worries. Remember oil is also used for cooling as well as lubrication so there is a good chance a large portion of oil is just for that. The amount that goes up in the engine and filter when running is some more, as well. I always watch oil my oil pressure gauge and temp gauge together in vehicles that have gauges. The H has only the temp gauge and I watch it regularly. Of course, I live where the temps can go to 105+ in the shade in the Summer. I like the temp gauge. This is my second HHR and both temp gauges have been identical in registering the proper temperature. This 2006 HHR was neglected and just almost ran into the ground. It has 333740 miles or more now on it, and I am slowly putting it to proper running order. Stay tuned there is more coming, it needs a bunch of TLC. Yours is still a pup compared to mine. LOL
This video tells what I did to remove the HHR oil pan. Watch it to get an idea of what to do. If you do not know how to remove the wheelhouse liner then... Here is my video on the wheelhouse liner...ruclips.net/video/BNIhnFBZ_7A/видео.html...
Is it possibñe to reply to this with a list of tools ill be using for this job please man? I have this very project for my cobalt but dont know what ill be using i would greatly appreciate it man. I subscribed btw.
I do not remember the sizes, but I used metric sockets and box end ratchet wrenches. A metric tool kit will most likely contain all you will need. Thanks.
Metric sockets, socket wrench/ratchet, extensions to get up to the bolts (usually included in the socket set), Cleaning stuff (break clean, something non-abrasive to clean gasket meeting surfaces, wire brush for the rest), Pick for the removal of o ring around dipstick, Torque wrench for sealing oil pan properly.
I thought the pan looked pretty good after 333,740 miles on the engine. What the picture shows is a lot of varnish. I hope the previous owner used the proper oil...but??? It was a 1 owner until I bought it for $400. I like to use Mobile 5000. However, I put some Quaker State in just to flush it out after about 500 miles.
thank you so much i have been looking everywhere for the torque spec on all the oil pan bolts and the bolts that connect it to the transmission but no one had them. Great walkthrough!
You can google something like that or go to a county library and they should have access to the alldata website .
Great tips on installing an oil pan, lots of work on your HHR! Great job!
Thanks Glenn. It sure was, but well worth the effort. It is getting a bit too warm to lay on the ground as the snakes crawl at night. Last thing I want to hear is a rattling behind my back. They also crawl into garages so nothing is safe. Cats and dogs are truly your best friends outside in the shady summer time areas. ☕😎
FYI: 3M makes a black 'body deadening putty' that is thick like playdough and slightly tacky. We've used it for YEARS in sockets to keep bolts from falling out. The paper towel idea is OK, but you can re-use the 3M putty over and over and it won't dry out. BTW: that was a LOT of silicone you put on the gasket surfaces, I use about half that so the excess won't end up in the motor.
the clean up is probably the thing I dislike most about working on machines. but you got it looking real good.
I’m going to attempt this with my car this weekend. Wish me luck
Take your time. The right side is the side with the least room. Be careful not to scrape the sealer off.
Well, that brought back some old memories. Good job.
Thanks Duke! I was thinking to myself all the time I was under this HHR that this is the first engine I had ever pulled the pan and not did something to the bottom end. Did you notice the 5 four bolt mains in this little 4 cylinder? Beefy bottom end in my opinion.
@@SteveAZ711 That's the first I've seen it!! Keep up the good work!!
O my god Steve you did a great job.!.. Changing out oil pan and making a video by yourself. That's ten times harder. I have folders full of cuts where I said screw it and stopped filming.
You got it Pappy. Me and Camera had a few words after the first bout of removing the pan. It decided to behave and stay out of my way most of the time for the install. I told it that Corkboard's Osmo was looking pretty good at times.
I see said the blind man to the deaf guy! Great show
Great job 🍻
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Steve - First off, thank you for the 2 videos. They were super helpful. I just had to pull the oil pan on a 2.4L Ecotec. Did you happen to prime the oil pump before starting? The reason I pulled the pan was because I changed the Timing and Balance Chains. One of the guides broke and pieces of it, as well as its bolts, were in the oil pan. In all the instruction videos I've watched, none mention priming the oil pump after removing the pan. I don't have an actual manual though. I'm wondering if the best move is to remove the valve cover again and pure oil over the cams and the timing chains. I have 140k miles on her, maybe its negligible. Your thoughts would be appreciated! Thank you - Dan
You are going to have to put oil in it anyway so pouring it all over the cam and chains that way would be a good way to go. I have not read anything about priming, but I suppose you could disable the ignition so their would be no spark and crank it over a bit. That would bring the oil pressure up. Too bad there is just a light and no gauge.
Another HHT project complete....really though Steve...is there anything you haven't changed on that car? LOL 👍
great job there steve!! got a question for ya -- in reference to the oil dip stick and the oil intake port at the the bottom of the pan -- how much oil you reckon is left in the pan if the oil level falls to the very bottom of the dip stick or below it.. i noticed this on my 2006 hhr but thinking it has what 5 quarts of oil... i didnt think of how low it could really be... but after i saw this video it got me thinking!!!! WHOAA !!! And looking at the oil intake port?? !! It looks like its just as high as the dip stick !>!?!? Im sure theres some difference but man thats kinda scary to think about!! But after looking at the oil pan from the top at the Beginning of the video it looks like the oil is pumped up from the very bottom of the pan! Ive had my hhr going on 14 yrs now and its comming up on 200.000 miles and it never let me down . Except for the starter and the cv shaft on the front passenger side thats now giving a sign its time to replace it ... Good video there steve!!!
Good question. It looks to me like 2.5 quarts maybe less maybe more sits below the bottom level of the dip stick tube. Next time I change it I will try to remember to check the dipstick as I go and that will let me know for sure. Yes, the sump is at the bottom of the pan...no worries. Remember oil is also used for cooling as well as lubrication so there is a good chance a large portion of oil is just for that. The amount that goes up in the engine and filter when running is some more, as well. I always watch oil my oil pressure gauge and temp gauge together in vehicles that have gauges. The H has only the temp gauge and I watch it regularly. Of course, I live where the temps can go to 105+ in the shade in the Summer. I like the temp gauge. This is my second HHR and both temp gauges have been identical in registering the proper temperature. This 2006 HHR was neglected and just almost ran into the ground. It has 333740 miles or more now on it, and I am slowly putting it to proper running order. Stay tuned there is more coming, it needs a bunch of TLC. Yours is still a pup compared to mine. LOL
Does it have a gasket? Or O Ring type of gasket. Did the dipstick come out easy or did you have to pry it out?
I did not remove the dipstick tube. It looked to be pressed in if I remember correctly.
Do i need a toque wrench, or can i just tighten hard as i can?
go to marker 9:19... torque specs.
not a lot of help on small details like removing the wheel well panel, removing the second clip on the dip stick or how to take the dip stick off.
This video tells what I did to remove the HHR oil pan. Watch it to get an idea of what to do. If you do not know how to remove the wheelhouse liner then...
Here is my video on the wheelhouse liner...ruclips.net/video/BNIhnFBZ_7A/видео.html...
ita the same as the Cobalt 2.4 engine? oil pan
Yes, I believe it is.
Is it possibñe to reply to this with a list of tools ill be using for this job please man? I have this very project for my cobalt but dont know what ill be using i would greatly appreciate it man. I subscribed btw.
I do not remember the sizes, but I used metric sockets and box end ratchet wrenches. A metric tool kit will most likely contain all you will need. Thanks.
Metric sockets,
socket wrench/ratchet,
extensions to get up to the bolts (usually included in the socket set),
Cleaning stuff (break clean, something non-abrasive to clean gasket meeting surfaces, wire brush for the rest),
Pick for the removal of o ring around dipstick,
Torque wrench for sealing oil pan properly.
Where do you got gge oil pan gasket
No gasket. Gasket is made with silicone gasket maker.
Was the oil pump port seal available new or did you just cover the old one with sealant?
I don't think I would be driving with no oil pressure...
How did u get the oil pan off
Check out this video...ruclips.net/video/dkIwJgd8N9g/видео.html
What kind of oil do you use in the HHR? It looks like there is some sludge in the engine.
I thought the pan looked pretty good after 333,740 miles on the engine. What the picture shows is a lot of varnish. I hope the previous owner used the proper oil...but??? It was a 1 owner until I bought it for $400. I like to use Mobile 5000. However, I put some Quaker State in just to flush it out after about 500 miles.
I'm doing a 2.2 saturn where the girl ran over a cinder block trashed the oil pan...aluminum. next time the customer is buying a gasket also !!
Omg. Cinder blocks usually win that challenge.
Do you have the link to the bolt pattern diagram? Thanks
Could not find one. Sorry.
you can find it on google
way, way to much sealent
I agree, but too little is worse.