Things I used in this video: 1. Tie Rod Remover Tool: amzn.to/2kqdAke 2. Sledge Hammer: amzn.to/2iasnep 3. Tie Rod Seperator: amzn.to/2ipRBWr 4. Grease: amzn.to/2AVVTzD 5. Metal Oil Pan: amzn.to/2nlDM0y 6. Seal Puller: amzn.to/2ACZyl4 7. Hand Pump: amzn.to/2iZ88V1 8. Ratchet and socket set: amzn.to/2inoxOY 9. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 10. Shop Towels: amzn.to/2jGDfkA 11. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO 12. Steel Jack: amzn.to/2Asgjxo 13. Jack Stand: amzn.to/2jGOwBg 14. Common Sense 15. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7 16. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 17. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 18. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
Scotty Kilmer I'm wondering should my cv shaft have slight bit of in and out play on both sides I own a 98 hyundai excel I don't get any noise besides a creek noise if I take of harder then creeping from a stop. But I think that's just my tie rod and ball joint that I know are bad. Thanks
Thank you for what you do Scotty! Just changed my CV axle on my truck by myself. I never had anybody teach me how to work on my own vehicle growing up, I'm glad RUclips can bring me close to the experienced ones such as yourself. Thanks again!
I never torque em, I just put em on super tight using hand tools, never had one fall off on me either. You'd need a manual for torque specs if you want to do that, me, I wouldn't bother, just get em tight
My CV axle won't go in even after hitting it with a hammer for 20 minutes. What am I doing wrong. The snap ring is in the middle. Didn't shift down. Still won't go in all the way. It's actually sticking out like 1 Centimeters or so. Thanks
Scotty, you make every job look really easy. A sign of a real professional. I'm getting too old and cripple to work on cars anymore, but your videos help me to know what repairs may be needed down the road. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!
I did my cv joint replacement with this clip. Scotty makes it all looks so easy. Minor obstacles were opening nuts here and theret, but the bare essentials are all in in this tutorial. Save me a big bucks. serious.
Seriously I love how you don't waste any time with needless jibber jabber and don't have some mindless obnoxious music playing. Thanks for making all these videos.
Fastest subscribe ever. This guy is perfectly clear with his instruction, the video is just where it needs to be, he doesn't over complicate, or drag things out. PLUS he links everything he used. This is some A+ content.
I'm capable of learning most things easily with proper direction. I'm by no means a mechanic, I'm a landscaper. Your video helped me replace my CV axle with no experience. Baby's running smoother than ever. Thanks!!!
Scotty, Your videos are great - I normally hate watching repair tutorials because of slow progress through the steps, but you know how to masterfully edit down to just what's needed. I also love the energy - "just remove these bolts here, UNH! And tap this out here, UNH!" Now I know I'm not alone, grunting away at wrenches.
Hey Scotty I ran into a situation where I put both my CV axles in, without using the big hammer. I'm having that issue with my outer right side axle on my Saturn Ion Redline. I had to go back to your video to see where I was screwing up, I never hammered the axle in so I ordered a 3lb hammer it will be here tomorrow. Otherwise I shift his car into gear and it don't go nowhere! Thank you for being there for us all, even us backyard mechanics who have been working on cars for years, we have to catch up with the times and we have Scotty to help us along the way
often, you remove the axle shaft from the inner cv joint, then get a puller to yank the joint out of the transmission. I use a slide hammer and a puller adaptor in such cases. It always works with a little modification and grinding if necessary to make em fit on.
Scotty, you're a Bad Boy!!! You're probably the best car guy on RUclips. I've watched a lot of people talk about mechanics in my lifetime and I really think you're the Bottom Line! Thanks for all of your fantastic videos. I would be in trouble without you! I just took the nut off my 96 Infiniti with a Milwaukee 1/2" impact wrench and boy was it easy. I think everyone needs the Milwaukee 1/2" & 3/8" impact wrenches. They make life so easy doing this job. I tried to take the 36mm axle nut off with my 1/2" Mac air impact wrench and it was like "can this tool do this". The Milwaukee cordless impact tools are really fantastic. I know most people can't afford them and neither could I. I bought one piece at a time when I bought the Milwaukee tools. They are worth their weight in Gold. All of the nuts and bolts just fly off. Thanks again for your fantastic tutorials. Every time I get ready to do a job I go to guess who, "Scotty Kilmer". The Bottom Line! I know you have the air tools and could have done this job with them. You have to show people that air tools aren't necessary. The average person is looking for a simple way to do this job. And you showed them exactly what they needed to know.
Well, loosening things up before making the video makes more sense than forcing people to sit through 5 or 10 full minutes of grunting and screwing around with seized nuts and bolts. I'm glad it was edited to under 5 mins for the whole thing. Anyone planning on doing this should be somewhat experienced anyway. If not, this shouldn't be your first project.
Betty Duncan I’d rather see 20 minutes of struggle than to see it loosened up so I know exactly what to expect when I do it myself especially if it’s not the same car... and no one is forcing you to watch it/watch the entire thing. If you are somewhat experienced, simply skip throughout the video, but this is a very poorly informed instructional repair. What happens if you can’t get the axle nut off? You’re stuck. What happens if you tighten the axle nut like the way Scotty did? Those axle nuts are anywhere from 100-300 ft of torque...
im 15 and im waiting till im old enough to get a apprenticeship as a mechanic in another year or so.but while i wait i am learning about stuff on the internet and i have watched about 20 of your videos and i have learnt a lot from them, more than just looking around on the internet. thanks for the videos.
Scotty, been watching your videos for a couple years now and I love them. One piece of positive criticism. Show us how to getting the replacement part at the auto parts store. I have learned not to trust the person behind the counter. Show us how to assure the correct part is purchased. Also how to research a part correctly. Different engine options in the same care can be confusing. Also how to tell if a part will fit many different years of a model. Stuff like that. The people watching your videos more than likely dont k ow this stuff if they dont k ow how to change the parts you are showing. Thanks scotty love ya sir!!!
you make it look so easy lol, I had to make 3 trips to a parts store to get the right size socket for the axle. 1 1/2 inch was slightly to big and 33mm was a little to small. $20 in returned sockets later i was able to get it out and finished. Thanks for the video Scotty, you have helped me on numerous occasions. much appreciated. have a awesome day.
1) The torque specs on all those nuts are: one grunt 2) now the car needs an alignment since you took it apart at the strut instead of the lower ball joint
@@freerunnersunion_________90 if your tires aren't showing signs of alignment wear and your steering is straight before the alignment then redoing an alignment especially if none of the parts caused any change in previous alignment will show what ?
Scotty, nicely done. I watched several videos on this before catching yours. Wish I saw yours first. Smacking it in to get the clip to engage, your the only guy that thought to mention that and to prepare for fluid loss. Attention to detail dude, you're the man!
You, Sir, are awesome. First time viewer; this is the best car maintenance video I've ever seen by 1000x, and not a single second wasted. Subscribed. Thank You!!
I wish I had your experience in replacing a cv axle. I had to take the strut off of my 96 Infiniti to get the axle back in. I see people doing it without taking the strut off but there was no way that axle was going back in until I removed the strut. After I removed the strut the axle went back in with ease. It was day and night difference after I removed the strut. I followed your instructions to the T and that axle wouldn’t go back in until the strut was removed. On my 94 Honda your instructions worked out perfectly. But on the 96 Infiniti the strut had to be moved for me to get the axle to line up and go in. I’ve been working on cars all of my life but I believe it boils down to arm strength when you dealing with these axles. The stronger your arms are the easier it will be. I’ve seen several videos on putting the axle in my type of car and I’ve noticed the person doing it was huffing and puffing while they were putting the axle back in. It came down to sheer strength to put the axle back into a car like mine without taking the strut out. There maybe a special technique in putting it back in without having to take the strut out. I’m almost certain it’s all about the strength you have in your arms. I would advise anyone trying to put the axle back in to take the strut out for ease of operation if you’re not very strong. I want to say that you’re one of the finest teachers I’ve seen on the internet. You’re the finest in my book. Thanks for all of your incredible videos.
5 Star video! I had no idea this job was straight forward and simple. I am unable to do it myself (no tools, no place to do it and no experience) but I will look for someone who can but not a shop. My shop quoted me $500 for plus tax to re and re both axles Thank you so much. You are saving me at least a couple hundred bucks. :-)
it's hell attempting to fix one on the car, AND realize they make brand new axle assemblies in china that cost about 50 bucks so you just replace the whole axle as a unit. I never fix em anymore because of this, just replace them
and that old axle just ends up in a landfill! we all need to take responsibility for what we repair, and fixing should be our first thought. if it just can't be fixed, then we replace
wish it was that easy! where i live there is so much rust that its almost impossible to get the cv joint out of the steering knuckle with out an impact hammer.
Love ya Scotty, But NO NO NO, you don't have to take the two strut bolts out. Just remove the lower ball joint. Doing it your way requires you to go get a front end alignment, that adds another $120.00 dollars to the cost of the job. Heck you don't even have to remove the outer tie rod nut, it just swings out when you remove the lower ball joint Nut. Thanks for the post anyways. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
Andrew at 4:10 in the video he removed the upper and lower strut bolts. They did not remain tight through out the process. I have worked on vehicles for over 30 years, you don't have to take the strut bolts out on most vehicles, it's a needless step. I did a 4 part series on this to show the best way to do it. Go part 2 of 4 in my series and skip to time index 8:14 when I take the CV Axle out of the Hub Assembly. You can clearly see the lower strut bolt in my video is in and still tight. Don't get me wrong I like Scotty's videos, but he leaves a lot of things out and sometimes he leaves out some very important safety issues. If you're a backyard mechanic with some experience he's great! If you're not, he can really get you into a pickle quick and sometimes with a real safety problem. Hope this helps explain my comment on the strut bolts. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
... hey Harry Baulz (BALLS) you dip shit maybe you should learn how to comprehend a sentence ... why the fuck am i a jackass i never put down Scotty or his work ... i basically said that i find it interesting how many people responded to this video differently when it comes to something as simple as installing axles Happy New Year dumb ass
Thanks, Scotty. With so many DIY car repair videos, I'm glad we can always count on having at least one reliable, accurate and honest source of information. You rock.
Im actually kind of jealous how easy everything came apart for him. A CV axle nut in minnesota takes a breaker bar AND a extension, then maybe you might get the nut off. If your using anything less then a 3/4 inch drive and socket, you'll most likely break your drive. Sucks.
i live in kansas where winters are awful (not as bad as minnesota) with a 19 year old 4runner, took me and my buddy 8 hours to take off the bumpers, everythings rusted and nothing just pops out.. i feel you
Hey Scotty, I have a 2009 Civic with 130,000 miles. While driving, I feel vibration in the steering wheel, pedals, and seat. I've already checked tires, wheels, and alignment and all are perfect. I think it might be a CV axle issue. How do I check for this issue? Your videos are both entertaining and informative, so thank you.
I had the same thing happen to my Corolla with a shaky steering wheel after the winter. Everything looked fine on the car. Finally, I rotated the tires, the fronts to the back and the back to the front. That helped considerably. Then I replaced all the tires and the car is good as new. Sometimes damage to the tires are not that apparent following a bad winter with potholes and crap on the road. Tires take a lot of abuse in winter driving.
Sunil Thomas. My car pulled to the right when i would let go my steering wheel thinking it might be and alignment problem. I went to get new tires and it drove straight afterwards. Sometimes thats all that needs to be done.
Hey Scott i inserted the end of the cv axle to the transmission and drove around the block and it came off and why? I push the axle and bounce back off and does go in place when i twist the axle.
Scotty not sure about the car you did this on but Toyota Highlander's and other Toyotas do not require removing tie rod or strut mounts. Only have to remove the ball joint bolts and that's it. That gives you plenty of room to remove the axle. Benefits from doing it this way is because you don't need an alignment afterwards (shock strut bolt removal can mess up the camber). Make sure you have a pan ready - I had 2 quarts come out on just one side. Great job!
Thank you. I been worried about that c-clip. I wasn't sure if I was to force it out and back in. I will try the grease trick. Been looking for this answer for an hour.
It doesn't matter - it's a tiny amount, and whatever grease does mix with oil will simply mix anyway, as the oil gets hot while driving. Plus you should always grease any splines anyway when refitting, otherwise next time you go to remove it it will be corroded in place and be a real c#!t to remove
Nicely done. I see what you did there, though. You pre-loosened those bolts :-) Some of those boogers are on super tight and require a big ol breaker bar or impact wrench.
I've been watching you vids for quite some time Scotty, not because I have to I've been a mechanic now for over 25+years. I just enjoy your enthusiasm when you make a vid. Keep up the comical work bud. 2 thumbs up.
based on personal experience with exactly this kind of job, I would strongly advise you against Scotty's advice to fix it yourself, for the following reasons: 1. It is very likely that you bought the wrong size of cv axle. Cars that need cv replaced are around 2001-2007 and for some there are variety of sizes on the one and the same car model. A mechanic would have a parts supplier on hold and will much faster and easier establish the correct size for your vehicle. 2. You won't be able to take off the wheel nut unless you pay for prybar and sockets what you would pay a mechanic. You would need also a pipe for leverage and if you don't do it right it is possible that you may brake the gearbox trying to unscrew the nut. 3. You will damage the ball joint trying to unscrew it, you will damage the tie rod ball joint too trying to do the same and possibly the shock absorber bolts. Main reason is that they will all be stuck. 4. Taking the old cv out with hammering a thin aluminum cover of the gearbox is not a good idea, it is very easy to break. 5. Leaving oil seal intact will be wrong, yet you will damage the new seal because you wont know how to put it in, and possibly you won't have the socket size that Scotty uses. Try pvc pipe. And this is the less critical error. The more critical one is that you may chip the edge of the gearbox there when trying to take the old oil seal, thus providing a chance for continuous oil leak. 6. Installing the new one is not without problems too. Hammering at end, especially hammering hard is very wrong and may cause the nut not to fit any more, as well as break the separators (plastic ones, you bought the cheap one, remember). 7. You would discover that is impossible to tie the tie rod, simply won't fasten all the way to the end and that the oil cushion there is ruptured. 8. Same with the balljoint. 9. Bolts on the suspension won't fit because it stretched beyond the strength beyond what you have to squeeze it back in, so you will end up looking for coil spring compressors. 10. You'll find that the nut bolt wont tighten all the way to the end, and when you break it and find that you can't find another one on sale without a new cv axle you will beg your wife to shoot you. I am not a mechanic, I prefer doing it ALL on my car, but if there is one thing I will not advise you to try to do, that is replace CV axle on your own vehicle. Believe me, I 've done all the above when I tried and it is no fun at all.
it seems a lot of tutorials are on youtube, and yet they don't tell you some of the most key important essential things, such as what you have stated. But its good you're online. Thanks man also i hear that you have to tighten the axle nut to the correct torque or you will face many other issues.
one of your reasons is because you can't take the wheel off? dude trying to say that it's better to pay the mechanic the money that you'd use to buy tools is dumb as hell. Its the opposite. invest the money you'd pay a mechanic for labor in tools. vehicle repair and maintenance is not rocket science and anyone with two brain cells can figure it out if they just try. Maybe you can't.
WCGwkf Are you always that dumb, or just on wednesdays? I bet you won't be able to take a lug nut off if I gave you one. Invest in what? A pipe and a breaker bar? And you thought you're the first one that ever thought of that and all the rest are dimwits that don't know jack sh!t? Hey, kiddo, go play some electronic game and leave mech stuff to real men...
Quentyn73 I just rebuilt my front suspension and replaced both cv axles 2 weeks ago in my garage. pretty sure that lug nut thing was step one. dumbass.
Scotty you forgot to mention about the axel nut having to have a tightening sequence. Very important. Also you don't have to use a puller on the tie rod you can just undo the nut so far so the nut is below the thread but not off and give the nut a tap upwards to free it.
Thank you Scotty! I didn't know it was safe to tap them in with a hammer. In other videos like Haynes etc they don't do that they make it seem like it slides back in like nothing. This weekend I'll be attempting to install the new one again.
its quite easy to replace the axels all of his steps are right. there are some cars you don't have to take the tie rod off, but it does make it easier when pulling the strut tower away from the axel and placing the new one in.
Old content is still good content. I have a 1992 Celica AllTrac that I'll be replacing the CV axles on, and of course this is the place to come to for advice on doing any procedure on a Celica!
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on RUclips. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On RUclips . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
i want to thank you a lot , i mean a lot , this video is just what i need , to replace my clutch , i have a 02 kia spectra gsx , and it was so awfull i couldnt find anything on it but i thank you this is what i needed
another great stupid simple vid, Scotty. I used my G.i. bill for automotive school after leaving the Army (101st Airborne Infantry) and never had luck finding employment in the industry but make side money working on vehicles. I watch and refer to your vids for some extra knowledge and thank you for it, brother.Hopefully I get into a good mechanical gig and can expand my knowledge/experience but you've saved my ass a few times haha
Used to replace the cv.boot when they spilt get covered in oil now I don't bother if a fatter spilt I just buy a complete new drive shaft and swap them over for what drive shaft are about £45.It not worth mucking about with great vid again.
Scotty, this video helped give me the confidence to do it myself! 2007 Yaris, same idea, wack it at the right place and came out. Couldn't believe it! Thank you!
One thing I do different is that I put NEW oil into the differential, as I never reuse the old fluid or old seals, as doing such things means more work later (however, if you are just changing one axle it is a waste of time because you are going to need to be doing this later anyways when the other axle is changed). As Scotty said in one of the other video's about transmissions, that it is always a good idea to change the fluid in the transmission at the specified intervals, and a former mechanic I have known for years said to me to always change the fluid in the differential as well. Also it is a good idea to change the fluid in the transmission, differential(s), transfer case (if you have one), coolant, engine oil, and grease places that have grease fittings. Also one of the things about some transmissions and differentials is that they sometimes have synthetic oil. Synthetic oil often has an indicator in it that does turn the fluid from clear to red to let you know that it is time to change it. Just as engine oil gets darker with time. I also do not like graphite engine oil, as it is next to impossible to know from just looking at it when it needs to be changed. Also Power steering fluid needs changed sometimes as well, and should be changed if the rack and pinion, gear box, or pump are changed. As when such things fail they do leave little bits of themselves in the whole hydraulic system.
Thank you for your straight forward instructions. I feel confident enough to do it myself so I won't have to pay somebody $400 or more to do it.. Greetings from Corpus Christi TX
@@onealdavis8267 yes I did. I had a little trouble with the retaining clips, but a friend helped me and it turned out ok. I am out here in Anaville off Violet Rd. I been living here in Corpus on and off since HS. I am 55 now
Thankfully i have a best friend that is a mechanic and has all these tools and know how to do such a job.. The reason im watching this is because he is the type to say here is the tool's and what i need to do while he sit's having a beer while laughing at me struggle!
ya I learned that the hard way when I looked and tried to use a torque wrench for my water pump and thermostat. I just recently got a 1995 Buick skylark 4 cylinder quad 2.3 DOHC with an automatic factory 3 speed no overdrive. The thermostat is on the water pump and the water pump is located behind the engine underneath the exhaust manifold.
Good news...in a way... Tie Rod linkage broken on driver side and seemed to wedge itself into the left rim. Fixed it and zero noise now....Thanks again
I live in Ketchikan too! Been stationed here at the CG Base for the last 3 years. Didn't think you lived here, I guess I need to watch more of your videos
It looks so easy when scotty does it... but when you repeat it, it will take you hours hahaha We just replaced the steering rack on my car yesterday, in scotty's video it was less thab 10 mins.. when we did it, it took us 5 hours hahaha
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Scotty Kilmer I'm wondering should my cv shaft have slight bit of in and out play on both sides I own a 98 hyundai excel I don't get any noise besides a creek noise if I take of harder then creeping from a stop. But I think that's just my tie rod and ball joint that I know are bad.
Thanks
Sooo great. But what’s that “special puller” ?!?
Scotty Kilmer lol you make it look so easy. 😁👍
Once i change it. Should i have my car tracking done
Scotty:You are wise and inspirational. And you are great teacher. And May God bless you.... Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Yours truly, Don
Thank you for what you do Scotty! Just changed my CV axle on my truck by myself. I never had anybody teach me how to work on my own vehicle growing up, I'm glad RUclips can bring me close to the experienced ones such as yourself. Thanks again!
That's awesome. How was it? As easy as Scotty made it look? lol I need a new axle and have never done repairs before.
yes
I did today same way with the grease and its work for 10 minutes and the cv axle popped out after one mile and start leaking transmission fluid
Did you use all the tools he mentioned?
Disclaimer: Scotty doesn't show some of the efforts that goes into removing some of this stuff and makes it look a lot easier than it is.
I never torque em, I just put em on super tight using hand tools, never had one fall off on me either. You'd need a manual for torque specs if you want to do that, me, I wouldn't bother, just get em tight
My CV axle won't go in even after hitting it with a hammer for 20 minutes. What am I doing wrong. The snap ring is in the middle. Didn't shift down. Still won't go in all the way. It's actually sticking out like 1 Centimeters or so. Thanks
@@DRNeKky
Try twisting it around a bit. You need to get lucky. Are you still having the issue?
@@DRNeKky Legend has it he's still hammering that axle to this day.
FYI Scotty's strength is the torque spec.
I use your “ tighten to one uhhh rule all the time “
Scotty, you make every job look really easy. A sign of a real professional. I'm getting too old and cripple to work on cars anymore, but your videos help me to know what repairs may be needed down the road. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!
I did my cv joint replacement with this clip. Scotty makes it all looks so easy. Minor obstacles were opening nuts here and theret, but the bare essentials are all in in this tutorial. Save me a big bucks. serious.
Seriously I love how you don't waste any time with needless jibber jabber and don't have some mindless obnoxious music playing. Thanks for making all these videos.
Fastest subscribe ever. This guy is perfectly clear with his instruction, the video is just where it needs to be, he doesn't over complicate, or drag things out. PLUS he links everything he used. This is some A+ content.
I'm capable of learning most things easily with proper direction. I'm by no means a mechanic, I'm a landscaper. Your video helped me replace my CV axle with no experience. Baby's running smoother than ever. Thanks!!!
Scotty,
Your videos are great - I normally hate watching repair tutorials because of slow progress through the steps, but you know how to masterfully edit down to just what's needed.
I also love the energy - "just remove these bolts here, UNH! And tap this out here, UNH!" Now I know I'm not alone, grunting away at wrenches.
Excellent work in providing details AND keeping it concise. You have a real talent there. Way to go!
this guy helped me on my homework
i love how he has a very short and fun intro then gets right to the point of the vid. with quick easy instructions. thanks scotty keep it up!
"Then you tighten that up...UGH!" Classic Scotty. Love it.
Hey Scotty I ran into a situation where I put both my CV axles in, without using the big hammer. I'm having that issue with my outer right side axle on my Saturn Ion Redline. I had to go back to your video to see where I was screwing up, I never hammered the axle in so I ordered a 3lb hammer it will be here tomorrow. Otherwise I shift his car into gear and it don't go nowhere! Thank you for being there for us all, even us backyard mechanics who have been working on cars for years, we have to catch up with the times and we have Scotty to help us along the way
often, you remove the axle shaft from the inner cv joint, then get a puller to yank the joint out of the transmission. I use a slide hammer and a puller adaptor in such cases. It always works with a little modification and grinding if necessary to make em fit on.
Scotty, you're a Bad Boy!!! You're probably the best car guy on RUclips. I've watched a lot of people talk about mechanics in my lifetime and I really think you're the Bottom Line! Thanks for all of your fantastic videos. I would be in trouble without you! I just took the nut off my 96 Infiniti with a Milwaukee 1/2" impact wrench and boy was it easy. I think everyone needs the Milwaukee 1/2" & 3/8" impact wrenches. They make life so easy doing this job. I tried to take the 36mm axle nut off with my 1/2" Mac air impact wrench and it was like "can this tool do this". The Milwaukee cordless impact tools are really fantastic. I know most people can't afford them and neither could I. I bought one piece at a time when I bought the Milwaukee tools. They are worth their weight in Gold. All of the nuts and bolts just fly off. Thanks again for your fantastic tutorials. Every time I get ready to do a job I go to guess who, "Scotty Kilmer". The Bottom Line! I know you have the air tools and could have done this job with them. You have to show people that air tools aren't necessary. The average person is looking for a simple way to do this job. And you showed them exactly what they needed to know.
Pickle fork on the in board compression C clip is genius, I was having trouble, came in to see how you do it and POW! Thanks a lot Scotty.
My axle is stuck i guesd i need a fork tool
By the way this is one of the best channels to help the shade tree mechanic. I thank you sir for all the good videos.
Just break the axle nut with one arm while sitting down. Easy as that boys.
He's just that strong...
Make sure to add an extra "Umph!" To show intended physical strain.
Well, loosening things up before making the video makes more sense than forcing people to sit through 5 or 10 full minutes of grunting and screwing around with seized nuts and bolts. I'm glad it was edited to under 5 mins for the whole thing. Anyone planning on doing this should be somewhat experienced anyway. If not, this shouldn't be your first project.
Hahaha it took me hours and I broke multiple sockets
Betty Duncan I’d rather see 20 minutes of struggle than to see it loosened up so I know exactly what to expect when I do it myself especially if it’s not the same car... and no one is forcing you to watch it/watch the entire thing.
If you are somewhat experienced, simply skip throughout the video, but this is a very poorly informed instructional repair. What happens if you can’t get the axle nut off? You’re stuck. What happens if you tighten the axle nut like the way Scotty did? Those axle nuts are anywhere from 100-300 ft of torque...
You’ve helped me keep my 2005 Chevy alive for years
it's a good idea to change the seals when the axle is removed, they are pretty cheap and do wear out over time
Is there a gasket on right passenger side with longer cv axle?
im 15 and im waiting till im old enough to get a apprenticeship as a mechanic in another year or so.but while i wait i am learning about stuff on the internet and i have watched about 20 of your videos and i have learnt a lot from them, more than just looking around on the internet.
thanks for the videos.
Did you end up going down that route
Scotty, been watching your videos for a couple years now and I love them. One piece of positive criticism. Show us how to getting the replacement part at the auto parts store. I have learned not to trust the person behind the counter. Show us how to assure the correct part is purchased. Also how to research a part correctly. Different engine options in the same care can be confusing. Also how to tell if a part will fit many different years of a model. Stuff like that. The people watching your videos more than likely dont k ow this stuff if they dont k ow how to change the parts you are showing. Thanks scotty love ya sir!!!
you make it look so easy lol, I had to make 3 trips to a parts store to get the right size socket for the axle. 1 1/2 inch was slightly to big and 33mm was a little to small. $20 in returned sockets later i was able to get it out and finished. Thanks for the video Scotty, you have helped me on numerous occasions. much appreciated. have a awesome day.
1) The torque specs on all those nuts are: one grunt
2) now the car needs an alignment since you took it apart at the strut instead of the lower ball joint
VITO SCOTTI - ah, thank you grasshopper.
What?
Not if the strut bolts are straight . There is no alignment change for that.
@@garynair5143 Its always best to get alignment anytime you do front end work imo, especially since manydont do them often enough.
@@freerunnersunion_________90 if your tires aren't showing signs of alignment wear and your steering is straight before the alignment then redoing an alignment especially if none of the parts caused any change in previous alignment will show what ?
Scotty, nicely done. I watched several videos on this before catching yours. Wish I saw yours first. Smacking it in to get the clip to engage, your the only guy that thought to mention that and to prepare for fluid loss. Attention to detail dude, you're the man!
You, Sir, are awesome. First time viewer; this is the best car maintenance video I've ever seen by 1000x, and not a single second wasted. Subscribed. Thank You!!
These videos are very informative. They also make me feel better about what I pay my competitive-rate mechanic, for these jobs.
you save a ton doing it yourself, no parts mark up, no labor
I wish I had your experience in replacing a cv axle. I had to take the strut off of my 96 Infiniti to get the axle back in. I see people doing it without taking the strut off but there was no way that axle was going back in until I removed the strut. After I removed the strut the axle went back in with ease. It was day and night difference after I removed the strut. I followed your instructions to the T and that axle wouldn’t go back in until the strut was removed. On my 94 Honda your instructions worked out perfectly. But on the 96 Infiniti the strut had to be moved for me to get the axle to line up and go in. I’ve been working on cars all of my life but I believe it boils down to arm strength when you dealing with these axles. The stronger your arms are the easier it will be. I’ve seen several videos on putting the axle in my type of car and I’ve noticed the person doing it was huffing and puffing while they were putting the axle back in. It came down to sheer strength to put the axle back into a car like mine without taking the strut out. There maybe a special technique in putting it back in without having to take the strut out. I’m almost certain it’s all about the strength you have in your arms. I would advise anyone trying to put the axle back in to take the strut out for ease of operation if you’re not very strong. I want to say that you’re one of the finest teachers I’ve seen on the internet. You’re the finest in my book. Thanks for all of your incredible videos.
yes, I often remove lower ball joints to get room to remove an axle
5 Star video! I had no idea this job was straight forward and simple. I am unable to do it myself (no tools, no place to do it and no experience) but I will look for someone who can but not a shop. My shop quoted me $500 for plus tax to re and re both axles Thank you so much. You are saving me at least a couple hundred bucks. :-)
you can also remove the upper ball joint and take it off that way. If your lower is stuck, it may need breaking off with a torch and replacement
I like how Scotty makes his video it takes You right to the point, and saves you lots of time
son is on the 101st airborne, chief engineer/machine gunner.
Very great and informative videos! I used to watch Davidsfarm, but since he is gone, you're the only automotive teacher I bother to use online.
it's hell attempting to fix one on the car, AND realize they make brand new axle assemblies in china that cost about 50 bucks so you just replace the whole axle as a unit. I never fix em anymore because of this, just replace them
Master scotty you are my hero thank you so much for helping the community
and that old axle just ends up in a landfill! we all need to take responsibility for what we repair, and fixing should be our first thought. if it just can't be fixed, then we replace
Hooah brother. I was never airborne but y'all are still appreciated. And I appreciate you doing this tutorial as well. Thank you for everything
Dang Scotty, you make awesome videos. Short, sweet and straight to the point. Keep up the good work sir. Cheers
Scotty, you using a that pick fork tool really helped me out getting the CV axle out, Thank You!!
either cv axle is bad on the left side, or the left wheel bearing is bad. Or, the brakes are worn down on the left side
I've watched your video and another and honestly I'm way more confident I can do this instead of paying $700. I cannot thank you enough good sir
Step one: get the nut on there-
Step two: UGH!!
I like the way you did that unlike other videos that show you that you need to remove brakes and rotor and ball joint
wish it was that easy! where i live there is so much rust that its almost impossible to get the cv joint out of the steering knuckle with out an impact hammer.
i tried this and it worked fantastically. Joint is greased and boot changed. Thanks a bunch for the advise.
1:46 thank you for warning me before I took it out that fluid was going to leak and get all over me
Scotty kilmer your a legend. I learn so much from you for years.
You are the coolest skilled tradesman ever...thanks for sharing...helps the back yard mechanic like myself that much more informed
Love ya Scotty, But NO NO NO, you don't have to take the two strut bolts out. Just remove the lower ball joint. Doing it your way requires you to go get a front end alignment, that adds another $120.00 dollars to the cost of the job. Heck you don't even have to remove the outer tie rod nut, it just swings out when you remove the lower ball joint Nut.
Thanks for the post anyways. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
+Andrew Robson top bolt is a camber bolt.
Andrew at 4:10 in the video he removed the upper and lower strut bolts. They did not remain tight through out the process. I have worked on vehicles for over 30 years, you don't have to take the strut bolts out on most vehicles, it's a needless step. I did a 4 part series on this to show the best way to do it. Go part 2 of 4 in my series and skip to time index 8:14 when I take the CV Axle out of the Hub Assembly. You can clearly see the lower strut bolt in my video is in and still tight. Don't get me wrong I like Scotty's videos, but he leaves a lot of things out and sometimes he leaves out some very important safety issues. If you're a backyard mechanic with some experience he's great! If you're not, he can really get you into a pickle quick and sometimes with a real safety problem. Hope this helps explain my comment on the strut bolts. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Dude he tightens to the correct torque by pushing his wrench with a grunt... you think he cars about someone's alignment? lol
damn its amazing how many different opinions one simple thing can get lol
... hey Harry Baulz (BALLS) you dip shit maybe you should learn how to comprehend a sentence ... why the fuck am i a jackass i never put down Scotty or his work ... i basically said that i find it interesting how many people responded to this video differently when it comes to something as simple as installing axles Happy New Year dumb ass
Thanks, Scotty. With so many DIY car repair videos, I'm glad we can always count on having at least one reliable, accurate and honest source of information. You rock.
Changed the axle then immediately broke again
How that happened
If it was only this easy!! Great job motivating countless people to save some money by working on their own cars. Cheers!
He does it in 4:00 for me 8 hour's.
then dont wrk on cars
Do it another time and it’ll take 30 minutes, that’s what happened when I replaced lower ball joints twice
he had all those bolts already broken before video!
It was already loose
No time but $300 dollars for me...ughhh
Scotty man you are a king I’ve been stuck trying to put this side in for three days
Im actually kind of jealous how easy everything came apart for him. A CV axle nut in minnesota takes a breaker bar AND a extension, then maybe you might get the nut off. If your using anything less then a 3/4 inch drive and socket, you'll most likely break your drive. Sucks.
He used the air tool to loosen it before removing it with a standard wrench, its what I did makes life easier
i live in kansas where winters are awful (not as bad as minnesota) with a 19 year old 4runner, took me and my buddy 8 hours to take off the bumpers, everythings rusted and nothing just pops out.. i feel you
3/8 M12 Impact did the job for me.
Scotty this is the best video on this subject. Im changing my camry cv axel soon.
Hey Scotty,
I have a 2009 Civic with 130,000 miles. While driving, I feel vibration in the steering wheel, pedals, and seat. I've already checked tires, wheels, and alignment and all are perfect. I think it might be a CV axle issue. How do I check for this issue?
Your videos are both entertaining and informative, so thank you.
I had the same thing happen to my Corolla with a shaky steering wheel after the winter. Everything looked fine on the car. Finally, I rotated the tires, the fronts to the back and the back to the front. That helped considerably. Then I replaced all the tires and the car is good as new. Sometimes damage to the tires are not that apparent following a bad winter with potholes and crap on the road. Tires take a lot of abuse in winter driving.
Sunil Thomas. My car pulled to the right when i would let go my steering wheel thinking it might be and alignment problem. I went to get new tires and it drove straight afterwards. Sometimes thats all that needs to be done.
Check your rotors for warping.
Your the best mechanic on RUclips hands down!
Hey Scotty. When I drive above 40mph I can hear a humming sound, once I let go of the gas it gets louder. What can it be?
often worn wheel bearings
yup worn bearings. Same thing happened to me about a year ago.
Thanks guys!
Hey Scott i inserted the end of the cv axle to the transmission and drove around the block and it came off and why? I push the axle and bounce back off and does go in place when i twist the axle.
Scotty not sure about the car you did this on but Toyota Highlander's and other Toyotas do not require removing tie rod or strut mounts. Only have to remove the ball joint bolts and that's it. That gives you plenty of room to remove the axle. Benefits from doing it this way is because you don't need an alignment afterwards (shock strut bolt removal can mess up the camber). Make sure you have a pan ready - I had 2 quarts come out on just one side. Great job!
whatkind of grease did youuse on the end of shaft that you put into transmission
Sean Bozman it's just CV grease. Suspension grease etc
@@yazansakran3326 is that ok to get into the transmission? Will it mix with the fluid??
widtrak77
That’s what I’m wondering.
Thank you. I been worried about that c-clip. I wasn't sure if I was to force it out and back in. I will try the grease trick. Been looking for this answer for an hour.
that grease is gonna mix with trans fluid good luck
Im pretty sure jes a better machanic than u otherwise why would u be watching a toutorial on hus channel as oppose to u making videos yourself
It doesn't matter - it's a tiny amount, and whatever grease does mix with oil will simply mix anyway, as the oil gets hot while driving. Plus you should always grease any splines anyway when refitting, otherwise next time you go to remove it it will be corroded in place and be a real c#!t to remove
Yes. Exactly what I keep thinking about. I'm doing this tomorrow. Think I'll just stick to the trans fluid for lubrication.
Man!! I love Scotty!
So simple so professional.
If I had teachers like him back in school I would be way farther in life 🤣
Nicely done.
I see what you did there, though. You pre-loosened those bolts :-)
Some of those boogers are on super tight and require a big ol breaker bar or impact wrench.
Did mine today. Thanks Scotty
I've been watching you vids for quite some time Scotty, not because I have to I've been a mechanic now for over 25+years. I just enjoy your enthusiasm when you make a vid. Keep up the comical work bud. 2 thumbs up.
+BigD1395 thanks for watching 👍
pretty sure thats a pickle fork!
A pickle fork pry bar! Lol
based on personal experience with exactly this kind of job, I would strongly advise you against Scotty's advice to fix it yourself, for the following reasons:
1. It is very likely that you bought the wrong size of cv axle. Cars that need cv replaced are around 2001-2007 and for some there are variety of sizes on the one and the same car model. A mechanic would have a parts supplier on hold and will much faster and easier establish the correct size for your vehicle.
2. You won't be able to take off the wheel nut unless you pay for prybar and sockets what you would pay a mechanic. You would need also a pipe for leverage and if you don't do it right it is possible that you may brake the gearbox trying to unscrew the nut.
3. You will damage the ball joint trying to unscrew it, you will damage the tie rod ball joint too trying to do the same and possibly the shock absorber bolts. Main reason is that they will all be stuck.
4. Taking the old cv out with hammering a thin aluminum cover of the gearbox is not a good idea, it is very easy to break.
5. Leaving oil seal intact will be wrong, yet you will damage the new seal because you wont know how to put it in, and possibly you won't have the socket size that Scotty uses. Try pvc pipe. And this is the less critical error. The more critical one is that you may chip the edge of the gearbox there when trying to take the old oil seal, thus providing a chance for continuous oil leak.
6. Installing the new one is not without problems too. Hammering at end, especially hammering hard is very wrong and may cause the nut not to fit any more, as well as break the separators (plastic ones, you bought the cheap one, remember).
7. You would discover that is impossible to tie the tie rod, simply won't fasten all the way to the end and that the oil cushion there is ruptured.
8. Same with the balljoint.
9. Bolts on the suspension won't fit because it stretched beyond the strength beyond what you have to squeeze it back in, so you will end up looking for coil spring compressors.
10. You'll find that the nut bolt wont tighten all the way to the end, and when you break it and find that you can't find another one on sale without a new cv axle you will beg your wife to shoot you.
I am not a mechanic, I prefer doing it ALL on my car, but if there is one thing I will not advise you to try to do, that is replace CV axle on your own vehicle. Believe me, I 've done all the above when I tried and it is no fun at all.
it seems a lot of tutorials are on youtube, and yet they don't tell you some of the most key important essential things, such as what you have stated. But its good you're online. Thanks man also i hear that you have to tighten the axle nut to the correct torque or you will face many other issues.
one of your reasons is because you can't take the wheel off? dude trying to say that it's better to pay the mechanic the money that you'd use to buy tools is dumb as hell. Its the opposite. invest the money you'd pay a mechanic for labor in tools. vehicle repair and maintenance is not rocket science and anyone with two brain cells can figure it out if they just try. Maybe you can't.
WCGwkf
Are you always that dumb, or just on wednesdays? I bet you won't be able to take a lug nut off if I gave you one. Invest in what? A pipe and a breaker bar? And you thought you're the first one that ever thought of that and all the rest are dimwits that don't know jack sh!t? Hey, kiddo, go play some electronic game and leave mech stuff to real men...
Quentyn73 I just rebuilt my front suspension and replaced both cv axles 2 weeks ago in my garage. pretty sure that lug nut thing was step one. dumbass.
+WCGwkf it took you some time. Were you using public transportation till now?
Scotty you forgot to mention about the axel nut having to have a tightening sequence.
Very important.
Also you don't have to use a puller on the tie rod you can just undo the nut so far so the nut is below the thread but not off and give the nut a tap upwards to free it.
Thank you Scotty! I didn't know it was safe to tap them in with a hammer. In other videos like Haynes etc they don't do that they make it seem like it slides back in like nothing. This weekend I'll be attempting to install the new one again.
its quite easy to replace the axels all of his steps are right. there are some cars you don't have to take the tie rod off, but it does make it easier when pulling the strut tower away from the axel and placing the new one in.
Old content is still good content. I have a 1992 Celica AllTrac that I'll be replacing the CV axles on, and of course this is the place to come to for advice on doing any procedure on a Celica!
yes, you drain out the old stuff and put new in for the parts that leak out
I just like how unlike other videos I seen he makes it look so easy and it really is I learned a lot from watching his videos
Scotty, just love all of your videos.
No nonsense, no bullshit no talk talk talk...
Just the important points and how you do it!
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on RUclips. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On RUclips . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
1st watch on your channel.
You IS a different soul brother!
I enjoyed the snappiness.
Good old Scotty. :-) Many thanks, refreshed my memory on how to do this, particularly getting it back in (whacking it)
i want to thank you a lot , i mean a lot , this video is just what i need , to replace my clutch , i have a 02 kia spectra gsx , and it was so awfull i couldnt find anything on it but i thank you this is what i needed
Done loads of them in my time so easy to do dealers would want 100 pound to do it so i repaired my own car great video again
this man is the deal!... spitting a lot of mechanic´s tips like a hip-hop beat!
Those were the loosest bolts ive ever seen in my life !!!!!! Awesome video brother !!!!!
another great stupid simple vid, Scotty. I used my G.i. bill for automotive school after leaving the Army (101st Airborne Infantry) and never had luck finding employment in the industry but make side money working on vehicles. I watch and refer to your vids for some extra knowledge and thank you for it, brother.Hopefully I get into a good mechanical gig and can expand my knowledge/experience but you've saved my ass a few times haha
Scotty is the man, dude.
To hell with Chuck norris, Scotty is the almighty, he took an axel bold off without a breaker bar with minimal effort
Simplest video and straight to the point, nice!
Used to replace the cv.boot when they spilt get covered in oil now I don't bother if a fatter spilt I just buy a complete new drive shaft and swap them over for what drive shaft are about £45.It not worth mucking about with great vid again.
Scotty, this video helped give me the confidence to do it myself!
2007 Yaris, same idea, wack it at the right place and came out. Couldn't believe it! Thank you!
Thanks Scotty, I wasn't sure if I needed to tap the axle in or not. I couldn't find any other videos where that was necessary.
Your 4 minute video saved me a lot of time and trouble. Appreciate the hell out of it.
I try locking them in place using large vice grip pliers
One thing I do different is that I put NEW oil into the differential, as I never reuse the old fluid or old seals, as doing such things means more work later (however, if you are just changing one axle it is a waste of time because you are going to need to be doing this later anyways when the other axle is changed). As Scotty said in one of the other video's about transmissions, that it is always a good idea to change the fluid in the transmission at the specified intervals, and a former mechanic I have known for years said to me to always change the fluid in the differential as well. Also it is a good idea to change the fluid in the transmission, differential(s), transfer case (if you have one), coolant, engine oil, and grease places that have grease fittings. Also one of the things about some transmissions and differentials is that they sometimes have synthetic oil. Synthetic oil often has an indicator in it that does turn the fluid from clear to red to let you know that it is time to change it. Just as engine oil gets darker with time. I also do not like graphite engine oil, as it is next to impossible to know from just looking at it when it needs to be changed. Also Power steering fluid needs changed sometimes as well, and should be changed if the rack and pinion, gear box, or pump are changed. As when such things fail they do leave little bits of themselves in the whole hydraulic system.
Thank you for your straight forward instructions. I feel confident enough to do it myself so I won't have to pay somebody $400 or more
to do it.. Greetings from Corpus Christi TX
Hey that’s where I’m from! Did you get the job done!✋🏾
@@onealdavis8267 yes I did. I had a little trouble with the retaining clips, but a friend helped me and it turned out ok. I am out here in Anaville off Violet Rd. I been living here in Corpus on and off since HS. I am 55 now
rbagel55 Cool I’m her in Anaville/Corpus area by tm elementary, get ready for this thunderstorm! I’m fairly new on the scene at 20 😅
Thanks Scotty. Always great videos.
Thankfully i have a best friend that is a mechanic and has all these tools and know how to do such a job..
The reason im watching this is because he is the type to say here is the tool's and what i need to do while he sit's having a beer while laughing at me struggle!
Thanks for this education, Now I'm confident that I can do this myself. Just need the puller now ~
ya I learned that the hard way when I looked and tried to use a torque wrench for my water pump and thermostat. I just recently got a 1995 Buick skylark 4 cylinder quad 2.3 DOHC with an automatic factory 3 speed no overdrive. The thermostat is on the water pump and the water pump is located behind the engine underneath the exhaust manifold.
Good news...in a way... Tie Rod linkage broken on driver side and seemed to wedge itself into the left rim. Fixed it and zero noise now....Thanks again
I live in Ketchikan too! Been stationed here at the CG Base for the last 3 years. Didn't think you lived here, I guess I need to watch more of your videos
I will for certain fix this myself, I just need Scotty to come over and help. So when can you be here Scotty? The beer and pizza is on me.
It looks so easy when scotty does it... but when you repeat it, it will take you hours hahaha
We just replaced the steering rack on my car yesterday, in scotty's video it was less thab 10 mins.. when we did it, it took us 5 hours hahaha