I was wrong in my previous video (somewhat). Please read the following: The trigger (under Active Reset operation) interacts with the cam twice. First, the cam hits the trigger and forces it to reset, the second (and most important)…your trigger pushes the cam out of the way so it can release the hammer. THIS is where your cam is getting worn… it’s being forced out of the way by the trigger. Because the tolerances can never be perfect on these (as we’ve seen with questionable QC), your cam will always need to be moved out of the way when the trigger is pulled. Due to this, you have to ensure that there is no ‘fight’ when the trigger is trying to push the cam out of the way. How do you tell if it’s a ‘fight’ you ask? By it feeling like you have to pull the trigger harder. THAT is the single tell all sign. If you can keep steady milspec trigger pressure on your trigger and manually operate the carrier and it releases the hammer each time without you having to pull harder…you’re good. If not, you must relief the pressure. The way you fix this is you must make sure your lever rotates back and forth effortlessly (remember, it’ll only move back and forth when hammer is cocked). There must not be ANY stickiness or biting going on. That, and you also must ensure you can move the cam between the 3 modes effortlessly. When I say effortlessly, I mean it’s only tight enough to where you know it won’t jump positions on its own. Any more and it will lead to more cam wear. I literally have clipped every single detent spring by 1 coil on my SS setups to ensure smooth transitions. If you do this and your lever moves easily, your trigger can push it out of the way during live fire without having to press too hard into the cam. TL:DR….cam wear is directly correlated with the difficulty of the cam moving back and forth due to an incorrectly grinding detent pin and/or too tight of a detent spring.
Do you have any way for people to contact you directly? Would like to get you a product for you to test out and give us an honest review (in regards to the SS)
I had to polish my left side of my trigger for single ,down so the disconnector could engage properly after that it seems everything is working properly I didn’t have to adjust my right side for SS I might just smooth it a touch
I got the Stainless Steel one. As a retired FFL and gunsmith, it took about 10 minutes of careful grinding to fit this. You don't need the trigger jig, don't waste time on a 3D printer making the jig. Just grind the trigger on the right side down at 45 degrees and smooth the other side to a nice radius. Take your time don't be too aggressive. Test fit after each grind until it functions.
Ffl and gunsmith as well and I had the same results, very simple. The atf just told twin bros these are machine gun parts tho so I guess im going back to my 3rd hole jig and replacement sears with my m16 pocket lowers 🤷♂️ I really dont get why they think they can stop this, even for people without an sot.
So do you just need the trigger? There’s all these other weird things on their site that they sell too. Do you install the trigger like any other trigger? I haven’t found a video actually showing how to install them
I watched both your current SS videos, would you be able to show on camera all the parts you say are super important? Like the finished product of the detent and the filed trigger? I believe you said the left side, but some comments say the right side…. Thanks in advance!
I’m having issues with my BCG sticking while cycling. When you say file the SS lever, do you mean file the under side of the lever so it sits lower on the rear takedown block area cleaning the path, or file the top of the SS lever to clear the path, or doesn’t it matter? I heard you say on one of your builds you even had to file you upper, which I’m hoping isn’t the case for myself. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. Great video
Hi Tyler. First, would you be willing to make a more comprehensive video on trigger fitting for both version of the SS & post that on rumble to avoid the YT censors. Second, have you received a visit from the ATF yet? The gestapo has the 2 brothers sales reports and will be coming to visit anyone who purchased a SS from them sooner or later.
Excellent info. It seems like whatever goes on with these types of triggers is always an easy, but very specific fix. As long as that kind of a detent pin spring setup is present, the SS should last the life of the firearm? 🤷♂️
I’m curious as to how long the safety hole will last with that amount of movement. Even in standard semi auto, the safety rotates for every single shot.
@@Blxzers True, but still a concern of mine. AR receivers a basically a dime a dozen. But my gun unfortunately uses a proprietary receiver and the company responsible for making it went bankrupt.
Hey dude. Having an issue w my super safety. In the middle position, I’ll successfully shoot a 3ish round burst then the cam moves itself over to semi causing issues. Any ideas?
Can you get a stiffer detent spring? That would probably help. Maybe try fitting two springs or as much as you can fit in there to increase the pressure.
Ok i just did one and it worked perfectly fine i tried to do another one and couldnt get it working so i swapped everything over from the other gun trigger hammer everything and it acts fine just dry firing but when shot it shoots one time and the trigger locks up with the other trigger and saftey i cant even get it to reset the trigger??
There’s only one answer. If it’s not resetting, the trigger tail doesn’t have enough material. Your trigger is no good. Rare if you got one from Twinbros but possible if you grinded it yourself
@wadewilson6135 I solved it, and the gun runs beautifully now. The radius on the trigger needed to be slightly larger. It was actually binding against geometry on the cam.
I was wrong in my previous video (somewhat). Please read the following:
The trigger (under Active Reset operation) interacts with the cam twice. First, the cam hits the trigger and forces it to reset, the second (and most important)…your trigger pushes the cam out of the way so it can release the hammer. THIS is where your cam is getting worn… it’s being forced out of the way by the trigger.
Because the tolerances can never be perfect on these (as we’ve seen with questionable QC), your cam will always need to be moved out of the way when the trigger is pulled. Due to this, you have to ensure that there is no ‘fight’ when the trigger is trying to push the cam out of the way. How do you tell if it’s a ‘fight’ you ask? By it feeling like you have to pull the trigger harder. THAT is the single tell all sign. If you can keep steady milspec trigger pressure on your trigger and manually operate the carrier and it releases the hammer each time without you having to pull harder…you’re good. If not, you must relief the pressure.
The way you fix this is you must make sure your lever rotates back and forth effortlessly (remember, it’ll only move back and forth when hammer is cocked). There must not be ANY stickiness or biting going on. That, and you also must ensure you can move the cam between the 3 modes effortlessly. When I say effortlessly, I mean it’s only tight enough to where you know it won’t jump positions on its own. Any more and it will lead to more cam wear. I literally have clipped every single detent spring by 1 coil on my SS setups to ensure smooth transitions.
If you do this and your lever moves easily, your trigger can push it out of the way during live fire without having to press too hard into the cam.
TL:DR….cam wear is directly correlated with the difficulty of the cam moving back and forth due to an incorrectly grinding detent pin and/or too tight of a detent spring.
Do you have any way for people to contact you directly? Would like to get you a product for you to test out and give us an honest review (in regards to the SS)
Should you go back and correct your previous video??
@@HMBDocsure, what’s up man? T.morrow70187@gmail.com
@@TheTyler701 email sent
I had to polish my left side of my trigger for single ,down so the disconnector could engage properly after that it seems everything is working properly I didn’t have to adjust my right side for SS I might just smooth it a touch
I got the Stainless Steel one. As a retired FFL and gunsmith, it took about 10 minutes of careful grinding to fit this. You don't need the trigger jig, don't waste time on a 3D printer making the jig. Just grind the trigger on the right side down at 45 degrees and smooth the other side to a nice radius. Take your time don't be too aggressive. Test fit after each grind until it functions.
Ffl and gunsmith as well and I had the same results, very simple. The atf just told twin bros these are machine gun parts tho so I guess im going back to my 3rd hole jig and replacement sears with my m16 pocket lowers 🤷♂️ I really dont get why they think they can stop this, even for people without an sot.
So do you just need the trigger? There’s all these other weird things on their site that they sell too. Do you install the trigger like any other trigger? I haven’t found a video actually showing how to install them
I watched both your current SS videos, would you be able to show on camera all the parts you say are super important? Like the finished product of the detent and the filed trigger? I believe you said the left side, but some comments say the right side…. Thanks in advance!
The rounded left corner of the trigger adjacent to the slant cut corner
I’m having issues with my BCG sticking while cycling. When you say file the SS lever, do you mean file the under side of the lever so it sits lower on the rear takedown block area cleaning the path, or file the top of the SS lever to clear the path, or doesn’t it matter? I heard you say on one of your builds you even had to file you upper, which I’m hoping isn’t the case for myself. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. Great video
Top side
Try rounding the left side of the trigger more agresivly from the top and polish. Will allow cam to reset triger
Hi Tyler. First, would you be willing to make a more comprehensive video on trigger fitting for both version of the SS & post that on rumble to avoid the YT censors. Second, have you received a visit from the ATF yet? The gestapo has the 2 brothers sales reports and will be coming to visit anyone who purchased a SS from them sooner or later.
But why would the HT not fire the last round and leave it untouched.
Excellent info. It seems like whatever goes on with these types of triggers is always an easy, but very specific fix. As long as that kind of a detent pin spring setup is present, the SS should last the life of the firearm? 🤷♂️
I’m curious as to how long the safety hole will last with that amount of movement. Even in standard semi auto, the safety rotates for every single shot.
@@hardlylivin6602 use plenty of lube
@@hardlylivin6602with proper lubrication the wear should be very slow
@@Blxzers True, but still a concern of mine. AR receivers a basically a dime a dozen. But my gun unfortunately uses a proprietary receiver and the company responsible for making it went bankrupt.
@@hardlylivin6602 I'll probably just get a separate lower and throw the super safety in it
Hey dude. Having an issue w my super safety. In the middle position, I’ll successfully shoot a 3ish round burst then the cam moves itself over to semi causing issues. Any ideas?
Can you get a stiffer detent spring? That would probably help. Maybe try fitting two springs or as much as you can fit in there to increase the pressure.
Should you go back and correct your previous video??
My lever dosent go as far back as yours does, i have a high cut lower, lmt. Is that am issue?
A high shelf lower has absolutely nothing to do with the travel of the cam nor the hammer cam lever.
Same issue here on a mars L. Cant get the lever to go all the way back as its hitting on the high shelf. Works just fine on other lowers
Ok i just did one and it worked perfectly fine i tried to do another one and couldnt get it working so i swapped everything over from the other gun trigger hammer everything and it acts fine just dry firing but when shot it shoots one time and the trigger locks up with the other trigger and saftey i cant even get it to reset the trigger??
How many coils did you snip off?
I can’t get mine to reset. Hopefully this video might help. Idk let me check it out
Mine functions in semi, but is binding in super safe mode. Any suggestions?
Advice on it not resetting?
There’s only one answer. If it’s not resetting, the trigger tail doesn’t have enough material. Your trigger is no good. Rare if you got one from Twinbros but possible if you grinded it yourself
Even if i wanted to with price of ammo lately id be broke! No wonder its all sold out.
I don't get how you all are not concerned with the legality of this widget. I'm just eating popcorn waiting for another shoe to drop.
About 2 bags of popcorn and this movie will be over, with terrible ending 😅
Lock bar side to side slop in channel, is it an issue?
No
@TheTyler701 I also get stickiness in bolt when it's at the most rearward position in SS. Any idea as to why that is?
@@bryanhoell5886 trying to find the answer to that myself
@wadewilson6135 I solved it, and the gun runs beautifully now. The radius on the trigger needed to be slightly larger. It was actually binding against geometry on the cam.